Us the top cap bolt only for initial bearing adjustment - bearing load -
before the stem is clamped down. (In fact, you don't even need the top cap
bolt to adjust bearing load, but it makes this easier) and hold it in place
with the stem clamp.
One trick is to adjust the top cap bolt -- before cla
Locking spacer like this:
https://problemsolversbike.com/products/headset/locking_spacer_-_6788
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LD stands for Lame Designation. Because I hate cheesy smirking names for bike
parts.
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Threadless will become easy to adjust or readjust once you do it a few times
with the added benefit that you’ll only need an Allen hex key to do the whole
combo (size of the bolts may vary stem to stem so you may still need more than
one hex key in certain situations.) I’m not advocating for th
The top Allen bolt only does it's job (setting your bearing load) when the stem
bolts are loose. If they're tight (the stem bolts on the side) the top bolt can
do nothing. Fact is, you don't really need that top bolt and cap. It's not a
bad thing to have, but I used to faintly tighten the stem b
Getting to know GBW includes my first ever threadless headset. A few questions:
-- Does tightening/loosening the top allen bolt tighten/loosen the headset and
thus effect bearing wear? If so, tips for proper tightening please?
-- Is adjusting stem height a matter of removing the top allen bolt a
