There may also be a wicking action from any cloth not made thoroughly
impermeable by the shellac soaking into it. At any rate, something one
ought to consider on a nice bike if you ride regularly in the rain.
Here in ABQ it would be largely a non-issue.
On Thu, May 26, 2011 at 8:53 AM, islaysteve
agreed. seal the area off first with nail polish or similar. you could
then wrap, twine, shellac, whatever to your heart's content.
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I was under the impression that shellack is waterproof, but it is a
good point. I will need to check periodically to make sure that the
tape isn't scuffed to the point where becomes absorbant. Then a coat
or two of shellack will reseal it.
Steve
On May 26, 10:10 am, Brett Lindenbach
wrote:
> a
Might that not be a water trap?
On Wed, May 25, 2011 at 5:02 PM, islaysteve wrote:
> The previous owner of my Bleriot taped (cloth tape, of course), twined
> and shellacked the chainstay. It looks so good that I left it on.
> Not sure, however, that you could extend the tape/twine forward enough
The previous owner of my Bleriot taped (cloth tape, of course), twined
and shellacked the chainstay. It looks so good that I left it on.
Not sure, however, that you could extend the tape/twine forward enough
to cover your rusty area. But it's a thought.
On May 25, 5:01 pm, erik jensen wrote:
>
you could never touch that *surface* rust and still wouldn't have issue for
at least 15 years, if at all.
that said, I just use simple rustoleum matte black paint every so often to
cover up any bare metal and then just cloth tape over the whole chainstay.
the latter is a great way of preventing an
If you just wanted to do the bare minimum to make yourself feel better
about the rust on your tour, and don't want to get into a crankpuller,
then just do something to keep air and moisture off the metal. You
should be able to wrap the chainstay with tape (electrical tape, cloth
handlebar tape) wi
You didn't say what kind of shifters you are using, but from other
info I presume it is a friction system. That's good because they are
much easier to adjust, and fixing the derailler should be done before
bothering to try and repair the chainstay. Set the chain on the
biggest cog and the smallet
I wouldn't worry about it before your tour. But for a short-term fix
I'd take a rag, wipe the area with alcohol and use clear nail polish
(use a paintbrush with a long handle if it's tough to get in there).
That said crank removal is pretty simple; I think you'll be fine.
Just remove the crank, sa
