Jim, thanks for your most excellent info. To bike shops I'd say, leave the
steerer uncut, place stem in midrange area with spacers above and below, and
put up a sign saying the steerer will be cut/tailored to the buyer after
purchase. If you don't want to do that for the carbon boys, I understan
All Cross-checks in all sizes come out of the box with 300 mm steerers. With a
62 cm frame, there is nothing to cut off because the head tube is long enough
to allow a stem and maybe an inch or two of spacers. The old Surly warranty
stipulated that stem plus spacers shouldn't exceed 100 mm, but
Yes , Top Tube Length is Very Important from my perspective ! Besides the
height of the head tube, TT is near the top of my list for importance ,
along with chainstay length and front-center. The length of the TT affects
how one is centered in the bicycle. A short or long stem in an attempt t
my favorite bike shop quote, "yeah, we know a lot more about fit than they
did back then"
On Saturday, July 27, 2013 8:44:51 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Good on yer for sticking to your guns. A few years ago I scotched a sale
> at a LBS when a clerk was trying to sell a 56 cm road frame t
Good on yer for sticking to your guns. A few years ago I scotched a sale at
a LBS when a clerk was trying to sell a 56 cm road frame to a 6'4" young
man (I, 5'10", was riding a 60 cm Herse at the time).
Note however that **top tube does matter**!! And that top tubes generally
grow longer as seat
My friend was in the market for a new bicycle with a budget of around
$800.00. He'd looked at various aluminum mountain bikes and talked to me
about it - he'd mentioned that he'd possibly like a single speed. I
suggested he check out the Surly line of bikes and maybe push his budget a
little
