I've heard of folks using sections of old tire with the bead trimmed off
for tire boots. Should be plenty tough, though maybe a bit extreme. Has
anyone here done this?
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from t
This post is indeed a good reminder. I know that even a quality, low
mileage tire with plenty of tread can suffer a nasty cut. For this reason,
I always carry boot material. Takes up no space, and glad you are in the
rare moment you need it.
--
You received this message because you are subs
1) Too many variables. You’re last paragraph illustrates this.
2) I’ve been using Kool Stop dura and v-type pads and don’t recall having a
chunk of hard debris seat in a groove. The shape of the grooves and the angled
“plow” tip would seem to lessen the chance. I can understand the concern on
Hi group,
12 to 15 ft-lbs on a lubricated quill bolt is entirely unnecessary in my
(limited) experience. I stop well below that (~8 ft-lbs) and find the
connection to be plenty snug. I tighten until the wedge is safely seated
against the steerer tube, testing with a lateral twist as I go and
I don’t understand the warning so often repeated to avoid glueless patches.
I had a rear tube with eight patches, half of which were glueless. The most
recent glueless patch had almost 2000 miles, and the oldest glueless had over
4000 miles. The patches all held up just fine until puncture #9 wa
