My 53 Roadeo is 22.9lbs. No fenders/racks-only dyno lights.
My 54 blue Rambouillet is 25.4 lbs. berthoud fenders and dyno lights.
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3 good things about having threadless steerers:
1. Easy to remove and reinstall fork should you need to.
2. It gives you the opportunity to buy and install a gorgeous Nitto lugged stem
that Nitto makes for threadless steerers.
3. It gives you the perfect excuse to buy a Rivbike for the more eas
On Tuesday, October 23, 2018 at 10:03:59 AM UTC-7, iamkeith wrote:
> Don't forget that you'd need a long pre-tension cap bolt to reach the star
> nut. Don't cheap out on the grade of that, or it could shear.
>
>
I don't believe that's true. It's entirely fine to use a weaker pre-tension
cap
Jandrews did you ever end up purchasing the Stronglight fenders? I am
really leaning on getting them for my Atlantis. If so, what is your
experience and thoughts on them?
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Saw this today and thought of this thread. Your bike is much, much nicer
nicer though.
HUFFY BIKE WITH CANOE AND DOLLY CART - $600
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/d/huffy-bike-with-canoe-and/6705634334.html
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These are all good ideas, thanks! I may try the inner tube or cork wrap up
on the curves, but I think the Oury grips are what I'll try first.
Cheers,
Eric
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Garage Sale Parts = The Bernard Bin. 🙂
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I too attended the Nutmeg Nor'Easter. It was fantastic connecting with so
many Riv friends. In addition to existing friends I met Anton with the
orange Cheviot with Bosco Bars, my friend Al from Saratoga had the other
orange Cheviut. I met Alex from Yellow Haus bikes with his very cool MIT
Atla
Pre-chopped bars. It's like they know me! 😋
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/garage-sales-parts
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That’s a great idea. Oh my I have some Ourys somewhere.
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Oury! They come pre-grooved! Seen here on my LHT (picture is old, the bike
currently has drop bars):
https://www.flickr.com/photos/85709120@N07/9067518433/in/album-72157634176408215/
On Sunday, October 21, 2018 at 8:20:44 PM UTC-7, Eric Myers wrote:
>
> Went for a 30 mile ride today on the Al
Someone just posted this same request yesterday. Same request - different
poster. If you have a pair to sell or trade, please PM me, thanks.
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Contact Sic Transit cycles in Ann Arbor... they might be interested in having
this beast.
- Max
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It really was an amazing time. The riders were all incredibly friendly, and
there was plenty of trail camaraderie when people got the inevitable flat.
I did the 50-miler, which was sometimes a bit too technical for a city
slicker like me (though the real limitation in gettin' rad was the low
sp
Compass M13 w/ light mount is wide version. Dropping to $145 shipped.
On Thursday, October 18, 2018 at 9:22:39 AM UTC-4, phil k wrote:
>
> Hey Rusty. It has been sold.
>
> On Wednesday, October 17, 2018 at 4:54:09 PM UTC-4, Rusty Click wrote:
>>
>> I'll take the 32f mini front if it is still avail
The MOM contingent was well represented but hoping for even more next year
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And then there’s this one with pinch bolt up top!
https://global.bluelug.com/fairweather-ui-7-integrated-stem-silver-11892.html
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I finally got to go for a good ride on my new-to-me cantiSam and it was
quickly apparent that the B67 it came with was not going to agree with me.
I think it's just too much saddle for my very narrow rear end. Does anyone
have a B17 or a Selle Anatomica they would like to trade for some spring?
Interesting. The steerer is just a hair shorter than i wanted for a normal
stem, yet too long for a super big riser stem. i guess im trying to avoid
having to cut it down just to fit a really tall stem.
That VO one is similar and aluminum, so if 15mm is ok for it, i assume 15mm
would be ok for
VO tall stack states steerer should be no greater than 15mm below top cap:
https://velo-orange.com/collections/stems/products/vo-tall-stack-threadless-stem-31-8-rise
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I’ve debated the exact same question... just in relation to an alloy FSA
Metropolis stem with the tall stack and single pinch bolt. It fits perfectly
on a previous build with threadless fork (protruding a few mm above steerer and
stock compression bolt reaching as designed) but when I tried to
This might a safer bet, though sold out from here:
https://global.bluelug.com/nitto-mcr65-stem-silver.html
If you don't need the removable faceplate and 31.8, Riv has a similar one. I
have one and think it's great:
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/stems/products/nitto-hiriser-25-4-1-1-8-thr
If you're asking because you're about to cut the steerer I'd suggest that you
do so leaving as much as possible remaining, i.e., 1-2 mm below the top of the
stem. A too short steerer could affect the bike's saleability later.
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If you read Soma's description of that and the similar stem, it says "reduces
the need for spacers," not "adds height to a too-short steerer." So it seems
like it's an aesthetic thing mostly. Sure would make sense if they provided
some actual instructions.
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Thanks for bringing that stem to my attention, even though i only have a
speculative answer for you:
By all means, make sure the steerer extends well past the clamp slot relief
hole as a minimum, and preferably at least half way up the intersection of the
horizontal extension tube. I think th
A double, or even a single wrap of the cork tape Riv sells is nice stuff. ESI
grips, while not exactly exciting to look at, are very comfortable.
Tom
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So i know that on a standard threadless stem, you want the steerer a few mm
below the top of the stem, but im wondering about a stem like this
https://store.somafab.com/niuicrthst26.html
since the clamp is lower, is it safe to have the top of steerer further
down? like 10-15mm below the top of
https://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2018/10/maximum-weight-on-vo-racks.html?utm_source=Velo+Orange+Bulletin&utm_campaign=5f31fb05c5-Bulletin_14_Lilac_PolyVs_Vintage_vs_Antique_COPY_0&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_a42146b85d-5f31fb05c5-35244117&ct=t(Y_COPY_01)&mc_cid=5f31fb05c5&mc_eid=e848d3d14d&m=1
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I kept looking at photos on IG. So many good bikes and I imagine good
people. And then there's the ride. That looks like an event I'd actually
consider flying across the country for and I'm not really into that kind of
stuff. As good as fall is here in the PNW, I'd sure like to experience it
by
Nope, I do not recommend trying that maneuver. There's not enough material
there in the slotted cable stops to thread a barrel adjuster into.
I think the current batch of inline adjusters that ship with current
brifters are extremely slick. If you insist on integrating with the
downtube sto
Update:
Photos: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-2NeF-6iHHVLTY4NDlpcmJta2c
Items for sale:
**Shimano CX70 Brakeset - Sold
**White Industries Square Tapper BB 68x113mm - Sold
**Paul Comp Black Canti Levers - Sold
**Nitto 32F Front Rack, No Harware, Has Front Tab for light - Sold
**Nitto 32F F
I went a different way with my bar end shifters which also gave me more
cushioning. I first wrapped the grip area with an old bike tube, then
covered it with cork tape. Cushy and comfy and fits any set up.
On Sunday, October 21, 2018 at 8:20:44 PM UTC-7, Eric Myers wrote:
>
> Went for a 30 mile
I recently used Gorilla Glue gel super glue. It seems to be just fine. It
brushes on and holds place very well. I've used automotive accessory tape
in the past but that is thick and leaves a visual gap between the badge and
the tube.
Marc
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 3:13:32 PM UTC-4, Da
Yep, that's what I've heard.
I broke the plastic mounting tab off one of mine in a crash. I'm trying to
epoxy it back together, but it may never recover.
But I sure do love how the Luxos U works (when it works).
On Mon, Oct 22, 2018 at 5:43 PM Ed Fausto wrote:
> *“Issues with the plastic hous
Another possible solution is the Cronometro Nob. You can find info on
Peter White's website. I was told, a few years ago, these are made in
Madison, Wisconsin. They seem to be applicable to a number of attachment
locations.
-Steve Butcher
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 5:42:45 PM UTC-5, c
Here's a bunch of examples for you William!
https://trainers4me.com/2/Vintage-Bicycle-Parts-Shifters-Clamp/
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DT cable stops are not suitable for tapping. You're better off buying a
set of clamp-on DT shifters from ebay. Campy, Sun Tour, Simplex, Shimano
and more all made them as frames formerly had no bosses for shifters at
all. I know the Campy ones at least the shitfters themselves are removable
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