Look for the green Rivendell cap in the video!
http://tinyurl.com/4x3j3f9
funny!
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Gladly. The differences in pressure are based on the average bicycle
bearing 60% of the weight on the rear tire. This is why rear tires wear
faster and rear wheels are often built stronger. The extra weight means the
tire needs to be run at a higher pressure. In the spreadsheet you can
change t
I need to read things more carefully. Initially, I only put down my weight.
I don't know exactly what my bike weighs, so I added 30 and then added
another 20 for gear. This changed the numbers to 49 rear and 30 front.
Thanks for pointing that out to me.
I'm still curious about the other things
Glad this all worked out for you, Jay. I am eager to see photos of the bike,
and I hope you use and enjoy it for a long time. -- Forrest
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Scotty,
On my Atlantis I've run the Schwalbe Marathon Plus 700x38 and currently use
the Schwalbe Marathon XR 700x38, both wit the regular SKS fenders (like the
look of those longboards!). I also had the benign though annoying rubbing at
times. I fixed this by re-bending the strut tabs (the tabs th
The spreadsheet I was looking at uses total weight, then divides it 60/40...
On Sun, Aug 7, 2011 at 7:05 PM, Steve Palincsar wrote:
> On Sun, 2011-08-07 at 18:45 -0700, cyclotourist wrote:
> > Did you include your weight + the bike's weight? If you didn't, just
> > add 25-30lbs to your weight a
I rode the Cascade Bicycle Club's RSVP (Ride from Seattle to Vancouver and
Party) this past Fri-Sat. Standing by my bike in the parking lot, got a
"that's a PRETTY bike!" (not the Riv Bleriot, but the Sweetpea, which still
looks pretty darn Riv-ish :-) ). Well :-)
Eventually introductions - J
On Sun, 2011-08-07 at 18:45 -0700, cyclotourist wrote:
> Did you include your weight + the bike's weight? If you didn't, just
> add 25-30lbs to your weight and put the # in. I ran the numbers and
> to get that pressure would have to weigh 100# and have a 25# bike for
> a total of 125#. If that's
I have a Brooks Swift Ti in honey with under 400 miles, if someone has a
Brooks B.17 Titanium that don't use and want to trade give me a shout.
Thanks!
-S
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Did you include your weight + the bike's weight? If you didn't, just add
25-30lbs to your weight and put the # in. I ran the numbers and to get that
pressure would have to weigh 100# and have a 25# bike for a total of 125#.
If that's your weight, then try it and see how it feels that low. If you
I have a 59 cm AHH with side pull brakes and the fender tire set up in the
title. Technically this set up does work. With the bike in the stand I get
clearance for the fenders, which I must say look beautiful, but out on the
road any vibration and braking causes the fenders to contact the tir
Congrats? Pics? and how about some pics of the Green Mountain Loop too! I
have actually done that loop twice-- clockwise and counterclockwise. Where
are you starting? What direction you planning? If you have any questions,
let me know.
Happy riding!
Cheers!
cm
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*I don't know if it will hurt them but running them that high will defeat
some of the comfort level that the fatter tires deliver.*
I did experiment with pressure in the past and found I was more comfortable
with the higher pressure. That said, I have taken the bike on a few rides
with the new
*"Bicycle Quarterly made a cool little calculator that Philip updated and
Jim posted"*
Thank you for reminding me about this. I had seen it before (and saved a
copy in my computer files). The numbers I get seem pretty low to me (34
rear, 20 front). It might help if I understood it a little more
As regular readers of the site know, Vaughn is moving on, first to
Japan, and then back to Colorado, his old stomping grounds. We need to
replace him. Here's our ad. It sounds pretty blunt, I know, but I
figured it was better to be straight at the beginning than 6 months
down the road.
If you know
There will definitely be a movie of the entire adventure.
--Eric N
Sent from the iPad 2
On Aug 7, 2011, at 3:02 PM, Jim Mather wrote:
> Good luck on PBP. I'm looking forward to your video of the ride.
>
> jim m
> wc ca
>
> On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 10:36 PM, Eric Norris wrote:
>> Ric content: r
I don't know if it will hurt them but running them that high will defeat
some of the comfort level that the fatter tires deliver. I think I always
kept my Col de Vies at around 45psi.
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Hi Zaelia, tire pressure is dynamic, and should be based on the rider/bike
weight as well as the width of the tire and riding conditions. No one
pressure is best. Bicycle Quarterly made a cool little calculator that
Philip updated and Jim posted here (oops, may not work anymore, thanks
Google).
My last pair of Panaracer Col de Vie tires said "keep inflate to 50
lbs" [sic]. I often inflated them to roughly 60 psi (with a little
more air in the back tire). One mechanic noted on a sales receipt " 65
psi (overrating) at client request". I cannot recall where, but I read
somewhere that people
Just went out to the garage with a plumb line. The seat seems to be right
on the money, in the same relative position as on my Litespeed. I am going
to wait a week or two before doing anything else. I keep waffling about
whether to change the bars or the stem. The tops of my Noodles are in th
Agree with the others, if you feel like it's something you'd like to
try, then it's not a bad investment to get the tools and a stand. I
did that for my Sam Hillborne. Spent a day in the garage putting
things together.
Now, the end product did not look as nice and neat as what comes out
of Riven
Add me to the list of those who like them. Only reason don't have a
pair on a bike right now is some mysterious flatting where I can't
find what is the cause. Time to get out a cotton ball and see if that
works.
Personally I don't ride supple tires and or light wheels. So am the
wrong person to
I rode a Trek 7300 for a year or so (and over several eras of a couple years
each, a few other Treks) and had never done *any* work on a bike ever. I bought
a Samuel Hillborne and wheels over a year ago and, after spraying the frame's
insides with rust-protectant and letting that "steep" a coupl
Congratulations! I know how you feel (sort of). What model did you get?
We want photos, of course. Best wishes,
Steve
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Good luck on PBP. I'm looking forward to your video of the ride.
jim m
wc ca
On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 10:36 PM, Eric Norris wrote:
> Ric content: riding lugged steel and leather, friction shifting a 7-speed
> freewheel.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176895@N03/sets/72157627248430965/
>
> Loo
If you think about it, a 2cm shorter stem with the noodles would move the
hoods back only a bit more than switching to the shorter reach Mark's bars.
So I don't think there'd be any difference in handling there, especially if
you're talking about handling while your hands are on the hoods or dr
On Sun, 2011-08-07 at 16:37 -0400, Steven Frederick wrote:
> I've been running non-TG Paselas 26X1.75" tires on my XO this year.
> They're pretty plush and fast. Maybe not quite Hetres but nearly as
> big and nearly as nice...cheap, too!
It's a funny thing about those Paselas - some love them (a
I've been running non-TG Paselas 26X1.75" tires on my XO this year.
They're pretty plush and fast. Maybe not quite Hetres but nearly as big and
nearly as nice...cheap, too!
On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 10:09 AM, cyclotourist wrote:
> I think a wide (>40mm) plush, low rolling resistance and durable ti
Down in Berkeley over the weekend, saw a guy my age in lycra in
Rasputin's records... then spotted same chap grinding up Telegraph on
a very classic looking dark green Bombadil. Wonder who that could be?
Then spent a half hour with Hiroshi at Jitensha - - like Rivendell
WHQ, Jitensha is one of th
Noel, IF you are mechanically-inclined and would like to get to know your
bike and come away with an extra sense of accomplishment, I would second
Dustin's recommendation to assemble the whole thing yourself. I've picked
up these skills and tools over the years of riding and being interested in
Putting a bike together is immensely enjoyable. You should take on the
challenge! Bottom bracket and headset are the only things you might want to
ask them to install as they take specialized tools. Everything else on the
bike is mostly done w/ a 5 or 6mm hex wrench! Adjusting the derailers and
On Sun, Aug 7, 2011 at 11:43 AM, robert zeidler
wrote:
> I'll slowly be clearing out some big bikes over the next couple of
> months. Anybody interested can check seller i.d. rgz4ams on e-bay.
> They are mostly pretty nice examples, but I've decided to go w/ custom
> builders for all future purpo
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37423935@N00/2958894809/
:-)
On Sun, Aug 7, 2011 at 10:56 AM, Zack wrote:
> any preview of what you are going to be putting up?
>
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When I bought my SimpleOne, I decided to build it up myself so I was
familiar with everything on the Bike and to teach myself to be self
sufficient on repairs. I am still fairly new to building and working on my
own bikes and this helped me a ton. Instead of paying for the build fee, I
took tha
Trade pending.
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Had to take a photo of my favorite "tool":
http://www.flickr.com/photos/32306142@N07/6018420311/in/photostream/
Maybe I should just admit that my fingers qualify as a favorite tool,
especially when they are used with the above.
Marty
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On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 4:42 PM, Noel M. wrote:
> Hi eveyone, this is my first post.
>
Welcome!
>
> For those who have done it, how easy/complicated was it to assemble
> your Riv yourself?
Easy.
>
> Would assembling an AHH/Sam be any more complicated than assembling,
> say, my wife's Schwinn bike?
Hey Noel -
Couple of thoughts:
Rivendell has a "Build Fee" of $210 if you get the bike sent to you the way
that you see in the YouTube video. This, to me, was worth it, as I knew
that they were going to have everything set up perfectly. The assembly that
you have see in the video will be we
Be sure to gauge the saddle setback independently of reach to saddle
IOW, don't try to adjust reach by setback -- setback is a starting
point because it determines your power and comfort wrt the immovable
bb.
On Sun, Aug 7, 2011 at 11:24 AM, Solomander wrote:
> So I raised the bars a bit. It def
any preview of what you are going to be putting up?
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So I raised the bars a bit. It definitely helped to make me feel less
stretched out. I also noticed that my center of gravity was shifted back on
the bike and that I had less weight on the bars and more on the seat.
Didn't make a noticeable difference in speed- I'm still a slug. I'm going
t
I'll slowly be clearing out some big bikes over the next couple of
months. Anybody interested can check seller i.d. rgz4ams on e-bay.
They are mostly pretty nice examples, but I've decided to go w/ custom
builders for all future purposes (aside from Riv).
Thanks!
RGZ
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The outfits look nice but it looks hot where that many layers of clothes on
in spring conditions. I would be sweating alot if I were tweed in those
conditions.
K
On Sun, Aug 7, 2011 at 1:54 AM, Eric Norris wrote:
> Check out this video on YouTube. More wool and steel than you can shake a
> bik
Hey all,
The subject line sums it up: I want a couple more centimeters of
reach, but don't want to fork out the dough for a new stem. My 7 cm
Standard is used, but less than one year old. I might also consider a
trade for a solid CrMo quill with the right dimensions.
- Zach
Moab, UT
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Today I finally got to ride the frameset I bought from Forrest about a
month ago. It was built up for my by Bikeman in Bath Maine and as far
as I can tell they did a great job. They were very patient with me
during the process of specing, changing and respecing everything, and
their prices were mor
I use a 7cm stem on my Hillborne and a dirt drop on my Jamis Aurora, which
is effectively quite short and don't notice a decrease in stability at all
from the longer stems I have used previously. It has been my experience
that the width of your handlebars has more to do with perceived front end
Hi eveyone, this is my first post.
I don't own a Rivendell just yet; I'm still in the process of
(patiently) saving up for an AHH or a Sam. I'm constantly on their
website to explore and learn. I'm not too keen on the various
components so I'll take whatever the folks at Rivendell suggests..when
OK, thanks anyway. I'm not in the market for paint right now, but I'm
always looking! A color like that would be high on my list. Enjoy your
bike.
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Steve, I am not the original owner of this LongLow, which was built in 1999.
So I don't know if this is a stock or custom color -- and it could be kind
of hard to tell from my photography. -- Forrest
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Yes, I was going to ask if that was a stock color at the time, or custom?
Very nice-looking bike. Steve
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Gorgeous bike. The colors complement each other well. I love your frame's
color scheme.
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Yay for 7-speed friction shifting!
On Aug 6, 10:36 pm, Eric Norris wrote:
> Ric content: riding lugged steel and leather, friction shifting a 7-speed
> freewheel.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176895@N03/sets/72157627248430965/
>
> Looking forward to returning to France for another ride thr
Jury's still out on the TRP levers, but only one 20-mile ride on them so
far! I think I should have placed them back/up on the bars a bit. I did
raise my stem another cm now and titled the bars up just a little to get the
ramps more horizontal. I'll report back after another 100 miles or so. --
I think the colors go well together. How do you like the TRP brake levers?
~mike
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The following have been sold:
B.66
B.72
Champion Flyer
Nitto seatpost
If anybody wants the Pro, I'll drop the price to $225, shipped.
Thanks,
- Frank
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Four months old, never mounted, would like to try Cypres. Willing to trade for
new or lightly used pair. Both models are $64 ea, new. I'll pay shipping.
Brett
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I put a few new/different things on the LongLow: TRP brake levers, new bar
tape, and Dura Ace bar-end shifters to replace the Silvers (one broken and
both had cables "seized up" in them). Not sure I got color combos,
contrast, and complementarity right here, but it works for me (though I am
n
Kathy, I don't see a way to email you, so I will post here. I work in
Alexandria and I drive there at least twice a week. I would be happy to
take some measurements and photos of the bike, and look it over in general
for purposes of your advertising it. If you would like to contact me, you
m
I don't have that shuffle to trade or sell anymore (it's gone) but I do
still have all of the catalogs.
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On Sun, 2011-08-07 at 05:01 -0700, Michael Hechmer wrote:
> Wheel weight, or more specifically rim/tire weight matters more than
> other parts because in addition to moving forward or up a hill, the
> weight also must move upward as the rim rolls. A hundred grams, 4 oz
> off each tire, and anothe
Wheel weight, or more specifically rim/tire weight matters more than other
parts because in addition to moving forward or up a hill, the weight also
must move upward as the rim rolls. A hundred grams, 4 oz off each tire, and
another 4 off each rim and you have a total difference of one 1 lb of
Kathy,
You might be able to get a very good idea on the price for the bicycle by
going to:
College Park Bicycles
4360 Knox Road
College Park MD 20740
301-864-2211
They have an extensive list of bicycles on consignment and have sold many
Rivendells.
Bruce
On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 10:24 PM, Seth Vidal
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