On Wed, 2003-09-24 at 09:49, Sylwester Pietrzyk wrote:
> on 24.09.03 18:35, Alin Flaider at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
>
> > FAJ* 80-200/2.8 ? :oT
> Or worse DA 80-200/2.8 - suitable only for APS DSLR...
>
> --
> Best Regards
> Sylwek
>
>
Or even Worse:
FAJ* 80-200/2.8 IS DA
To really spi
> I had actually considered that it could have a mechanical-to-electronic
> convertor built in, to allow full function from pre-A lenses, without even
> needing stop down metering.
This wouldn't work because the pre-A lenses don't have a linear
apperture coupler, among other things.
-Scott
On Thu, 2003-10-30 at 06:01, Kostas Kavoussanakis wrote:
> On Thu, 30 Oct 2003, William Robb wrote:
>
> > When you rewind, you can feel the film come off the take up spool, so stop
> > rewinding when you feel that happen.
>
> As I have only wound five (5) films in my life, I am very certain I
> w
On Fri, 2003-12-12 at 17:10, Ryan Lee wrote:
> Just an idea since there's at least one thread discussing lenses and
> multiplication factor. How feasible would it be theoretically for
> manufacturers to come up with a teleconverter like accessory to fit normal
> lens projections to APS size sensors
der, I suppose that'd be saleable too,
> though maybe bundled with a refconverter type of device, attaching itself to
> the viewfinder and re-flipping the image.. What say you Scott?
>
> Regards,
> Ryan
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Scott Nelson&
On Wed, 2004-01-07 at 21:58, Naomi van der Lippe wrote:
> Hi all
>
> Hope all the New Year's resolutions are holding up!
>
> I have seen a photo in a pamphlet on photography which I would like to
> re-create and, if successful, to display on PUG sometime. Would this not be
> seen as "photo-plagi
You can take care of thermal noise (to a point) by cooling the sensor
with something like liquid nitrogen - not that this is very practical
unless you are using a telescope. At a given temperature, smaller
pixels and higher iso will result in more thermal noise.
Lens performance will always be li
> Actually, there are quite a few systems using LN cooled sensors in use
> in industrial and "gov't" applications. I had the chance to look at
> some of thse a few months ago. Quite impressive results...
> Packaging was a lot smaller than I had anticipated.
>
Indeed liquid Nitrogen co
Sadly, I lost my 135mm earlier this summer while out hiking. It was
very good to me, so i'm on the lookout for another one. If you happen
to see one at a shop, or have one that's under appreciated please let me
know.
-Scott
I used to have this problem with my MZ-5n. Fine horizontal scratches on
the film, sometimes up to a few frames long. Mine were not visible when
the slide was projected.
I think that the cause was some sort of contaminant on the pressure
plate that was causing the problem. I took a brush and b
Set of 3 K-mount extension tubes: 12mm, 21mm and 36mm. All are in
pristine condition, except for the lettering which is rubbing off on the
12mm and 21mm tubes. They have all 7 FA series electrical contacts, but
no AF actuator so the only thing you lose using the tubes is AF. 3
tubes stacked go b
I shoot a MZ-5n right now, but the AF has trouble with snow. I like to
shoot backcountry skiing, so you can see how this is a problem for me.
I was wondering how the *ist D AF handles this sort of thing. Does
anyone have experience they'd like to share?
Thanks,
-Scott
ust point the camera
> at a wall or ceiling that is all one color.
> Fools the AF everytime, causing the lense to go
> from one extreme to the other.
>
> Don
>
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Scott Nelson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent:
I wouldn't put any bets on any lens that only costs $115. If it was
really good, Sigma would probably be charging more. See if you can try
the lens first at a shop and fire off a few frames of you *ist D to
compare with the Vivitar.
On this issue of a full frame DSLR - if Pentax does release one
You seem to be missing a 135mm. What gives?
On Wed, 2004-05-19 at 17:19, William Robb wrote:
> - Original Message -
> From: "Amita Guha"
> Subject: what would you do?
>
>
> >
> >
> > Anyway, what would you guys do? I'd love to hear some other
> thoughts
> > before I make up my mind on
ok, but "rm -rf ~" is pretty destructive too!
decode for non unix users: ~ is a wildcard that substitutes for the
current user's home directory, whatever that is.
On Wed, 2004-05-19 at 17:00, Anders Hultman wrote:
> On Wed, 19 May 2004, John Francis wrote:
>
> > Anyone can *try* rm -rf /
> > Th
Spherical abberation and chromatic abberation are totally different
beasts. you are correct that CA is caused by variations in the
refractive index of glass with wavelength. Effectively CA means that
the focal length of a lens is slightly different for different
wavelengths. Colour fringing Effe
problems with that head using that lens.
> what are your tripod legs?
>
> Herb
> - Original Message -
> From: "Scott Nelson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2004 1:17 AM
> Subject: Ball Heads
>
>
That thing is massive, but the midsized 'universal' one is more what i'm
looking for. It's still on the heavy side though:
Acratech: 450g
Markins:510g
Novoflex: 610g
Arca-Swiss: 772g
Now before people start complaining that 100g isn't a lot, let me say
that I cut my toothbrush handle in
On Tue, 2004-05-25 at 22:20, Jens Bladt wrote:
> Imagine there was an universal lens mount. (imagine that tires for a Ford
> would only fit a Ford...!!!???)
> Then perhaps each manufactor would be doing exactly what they are best at.
> What would Petnax be doing? Just lenses?
> All the best
> Jens
gnetting if I don't use a
> filter.
>
> Hope that helps,
>
> William in Utah.
> ----- Original Message -
> From: "Scott Nelson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, March 21, 2003 7:22 PM
> Subject: Lens Hood Sug
ping
What's a fair price for one of these anyway?
-Scott
There's a Pentax Canada service centre near the Burrard St. Bridge. I
think that it's on 2nd or 3rd avenue, just east of Burrard. I'm not
sure if they'll work on old cameras though. I had a good experience
when I brought my F 80-200 4.7-5.6 in for a loose lens element.
-Scott
On Thu, 2003-07-
> ps. think how long it would take to do this with film: take the picture,
> develope, scan - repeat five times. ouch!
>
i thought the analog version would have been take picture (of somthing
small), develop film, print on enlarger, develop print, place object on
print, repeat.
About the useles
On Mon, 2004-01-26 at 13:20, Steve Desjardins wrote:
> It is an interesting problem, e.g., how much of the record from our time
> will be erased or preserved over the next 2000 years, even assuming that
> no great catastrophe befalls us. I think we should create a PDML time
> capsule, and bury it
I shoot on snow a lot with slide film. I usually use +1 EV compensation
(from a program mode average reading) to get the snow decently white.
If there's a lot of rocks in the scene, or if I don't want quite such a
bright look I use +0.5 EV. The other technique is to spot meter off the
snow and s
Use a lens hood to keep the rain drops off the front of your lens -
these can be a serious pain in the ass. I have a MZ-5n and I shoot with
it in light rain and snow from time to time with no protection expect
the lens hood. When I'm not shooting I put the camera into my bag which
ha a waterproof
I picked up a KX on ebay, which my girlfriend is now using a bit. The
problem is, we both like 50mm primes and we only have 1 between us.
It's a SMC-A 50mm f/1.7 and I really like it except that the aperture
ring really sucks. On my 5n, I leave it in A mode a lot of the time
because it's so bad.
Wow!
So where can I get one. I don't think I've ever seen a Voigtlander lens
in a shop in Canada.
-Scott
On Mon, 2004-02-09 at 18:48, Rob Studdert wrote:
> Hi team,
>
> A month or two back I mentioned to the list that I had tested the SMC Pentax-A*
> 135mm 1:1.8 against the Voigtländer Macro
test
> Where would the world be without a United States of America?
Are you sure you want to hear answers to this one? Somehow I don't all the replies
would be to your liking.
-Scott
After recently acquiring a deep, solid hood with my SMC 135/2.5 (Thanks
Fred) I've decided to get hood for the rest of my lenses. I already
have a flexible hood for my 50mm, but I like the protection offered by
the solid hood more. Metal hood are preferable, but solid plastic hoods
are ok too. I
I have a K 135mm f/2.5. It's great, and I like the wide apperture for
outdoor portrait type shots. It's a bit heavy, although tolerable for
hiking. The all metal build is awesome.
-Scott
On Fri, 2003-03-21 at 12:17, Andre Langevin wrote:
> >Hi all
> >I'm considering buying this lens again (I
Wow, it must have been really cold (humid too?). I don't suppose it
make much difference what kind of camera you use with regards to that
particular problem.
Scott
On Sun, 2004-05-30 at 08:40, William Robb wrote:
> - Original Message -
> From: "Brett Mckay"
> Subject: Re: Fully manual S
I disagree. Neither is fun, but watching the sun rise is usually cold.
In the mountains, I often get up for sunrise, take some pictures and
then go back to sleep. The best compromise is to arrange your tent so
you can take the appropriate sunrise shot without getting out of the
sleeping bag.
Sc
ISO 128000 with no noise eh . . . let's see about the math behind that
*ist D has 3008x2008 pixels on a 23.5mm x 15.7mm sensor - that's a pixel
pitch (d) of about 7.8 microns
*istD has acceptable noise at ISO 1600
*Signal to noise ratio (S/N) must remain constant for equal quality.
*Signal stre
I want more control over my colour printing process, which has got me
thinking about 'going digital'. However, digital photography still has
some serious shortfalls in that:
1 - I like to do slideshows and digital projection solutions are either
poor or expensive or both
2 - I also like shooting
On Sun, 2004-06-13 at 12:27, Shel Belinkoff wrote:
> I just bought a Nikon Coolscan V, and have used several Nikon Coolscans
> over the past couple of years. I'm content with my choice, although I
> would have preferred a Coolscan 5000 because it works in 16 bit rather than
> 14 bit mode, has a so
This is correct. I have a MZ-5n and I understand it is normal
behavior. It would theoretically be possible for the body to compute
the aperture based on the stop down coupler and the A contacts (which
give max/min aperture info). However, I believe this is not done
because the stop down coupler
On Tue, 2004-06-15 at 11:43, William Robb wrote:
> - Original Message -
> From: "Peter J. Alling"
> Subject: Re: Art confiscated by FBI
>
>
> > Looks like a case of over zealous law enforcement. Once started
> these
> > take on a life of their own since it's an axiom that
> > no civil s
I wouldn't look much into this. Designing full frame 50mm and 100mm
lenses is easy, so why would anyone make a aps format specific version
of these. All reduced frame (APS) lenses from all manufacturers (except
Olympus) thus far have been wider than 18mm.
Canon 18-55
Pentax 16-45
Pentax 14
Nikon
The following is for sale because I don't use if much
Sigma 300mm f/4 APO Macro. Like new, with removeable tripod collar,
AF/MF clutch and built in retractable lens hood. Includes hard case,
front (77mm) and rear caps. Asking $300US, or $375CAD.
Pentax SMC FA 28-70 f/4. Has a small scratch o
4 and extension
tube set.
Quoting Scott Nelson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
Pentax SMC FA 28-70 f/4. Has a small scratch on the front element (3mm
long, width of a hair). Hard to say what this one is worth because of
the scratch, so make me an offer.
Wasn't somebody around here loo
The following is for sale because I don't use if much
Sigma 300mm f/4 APO Macro. Like new, with removeable tripod collar,
AF/MF clutch and built in retractable lens hood. Includes hard case,
front (77mm) and rear caps. Asking $300US, or $375CAD.
Pentax SMC FA 28-70 f/4. Has a small scratch o
The following is for sale because I don't use if much
Sigma 300mm f/4 APO Macro. Like new, with removeable tripod collar,
AF/MF clutch and built in retractable lens hood. Includes hard case,
front (77mm) and rear caps. Asking $300US, or $375CAD.
Pentax SMC FA 28-70 f/4. Has a small scratch o
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've noticed that the prices on all Pentax lenses seem to be up by a considerable
amount. Yes, it's most evident among the shorter lenses (FA 50/1.4s are going for more
than B&H's new price on ebay -- $209-- and B&H is sold out.) If you missed the
thread about Pentax dig
I seem to recall hearing good things about this TC, but a search of the
PDML archives didn't turn up anything useful. Has anyone got one? How
do you like it? If I did pick one up, I'd be using it with a 135/2.5
and a 50/1.7.
-Scott
On Wed, 2002-12-11 at 21:48, J. C. O'Connell wrote:
> Here's my opinion on TC's:
>
> They Suck compared to real primes at the desired
> focal length. Especially for 35mm use. I have
> one for 6X7 that degrades quality just like the
> 35mm ones do but at least with 6X7 the quality
> level is still
On Fri, 2002-12-13 at 10:33, Michael Cross wrote:
> Can someone who own the FA 50mm F/1.4 tell me if his/her lens has an
> aperture click at f/1.7? My new FA 50mm f/1.4 lens does not have a
> distinct click stop at the f/1.7 aperture. There is a click stop at
> f/1.4 and f/2.0 but not at f/1.7
On Fri, 2002-12-13 at 12:21, Bruce Rubenstein wrote:
> What is not being addressed here is that many of the shooters who are
> currently buying DSLRs aren't looking for 30meg files. One of the features
> that they like about the Kodak 14n is that it can be configured to only
> produce 8meg (not com
On Fri, 2002-12-13 at 14:36, Mike Johnston wrote:
> > When a client pays to have something - say products - photographed its very
> > clear that everything to do with them, including the negatives, belong to
> > him - not the picture taker.
>
> Not true at all. Not only the negatives, but also all
> It has been awhile since I last researched copyright law. Supposedly, do to
> the international copyright agreement it is supposed to be the same in all
> signatory countries
I don't think the international copyright agreements have any say over
laws about who owns a copyright. My understa
> This is where you've gone off track. The "A" contact has *nothing* to do
> with the metering mode. It's all the *other* contacts on the camera body
> that affect matrix metering (and "A" lenses will work with matrix metering
> no matter how you set the aperture ring).
>
I see now, the A contact
> Hi Lon,
>I can think of this explanation:
>
> difference of 1/2 stop at f/11 - 22 is so small in absolute
> physical dimensions that they did feel that making halfstops
> there would not be repeatable enough due to mechanical
> nature of the aperture
On Tue, 2002-12-17 at 12:20, Fred wrote:
> > Fred wrote:
> F>> [The SMC K 135/2.5 is on the left, while the Takumar Bayonet
> F>> 135/"2.5" is on the right.]
>
> > Fred, Unfortunately I was referring to the SMC K 135/2.5 . :o( The
> > front lens diameter as it appeared to my limited measuring
> >
On Wed, 2002-12-18 at 14:07, jcoyle wrote:
> My understanding of the formal way to measure aperture is that it is the
> ratio of the diameter of the _perceived_ aperture at the film plane to the
> focal length of the lens in use*, and is thus at least as dependent upon the
> effects of post-apertur
> Several rolls of Provia 100F and Velveta
>
> I can do landscapes, closeups (up to 4x), and wildlife shots.
I hope you don't try to do any landscapes with that Velveta. You might
end up with some pretty cheesy saturated colour :)
-Scott
> I want a FA 300mm f1.0, something that would be so
> monstrously huge and heavy it would need it's own car
> to move it around. Like a self-propelled gun from
> WWII. It wouldn't use screw-on filters, but the
> tinted windows of a low-rider. Multicoated, of
> course. :)
> Can you imagine th
I was just wondering what other people like to take with them for
hiking, mountaineering and skiing trips where photography isn't the main
priority. Most of the trips I do invole 8-14 hours of travel per day
(including breaks, meals, etc.)
My usual setup consists of:
MZ-5n
FA 28-70 f/4 AL
FA 80
> Wow, Scott
>
> I'd hate to see your pack if you ~were~ going out to do some
photography!
Actually those are the only 4 lenses I own, so it's not as bad as you
think. Ii could probably get away with only the 50mm, but really like
using the telephoto for grabbing shots of nearby climbing route
On Tue, 2002-10-15 at 06:24, gfen wrote:
> On 14 Oct 2002, Scott Nelson wrote:
> > I was just wondering what other people like to take with them for
> > hiking, mountaineering and skiing trips where photography isn't the
main
> > priority. Most of the trips I do invol
On Tue, 2002-10-15 at 09:20, P Temmerman wrote:
> MZ-3 with 28-70/4 or 20-35 on the camera. 80-200 plus film in a small waist pack.
>Also carry a polrazing filter and possible a monopod which is also great as a hiking
>aid.
>
What monopod do you use? I've been thinking of getting one of these
Has anyone got one of these that they would like to offload? I am
willing to pay a fair price for it.
-Scott
> Was it 'Real Fractals' or 'Pure Fractals'? I'll look it up in the meantime.
I think it's called 'Genuine Fractals', but I've never used it.
However, you stiall can't add any new information with it. All you can
do is make the expanded file look smooth instead of pixelated.
-Scott
On Fri, 2002-10-25 at 08:54, David Brooks wrote:
> I have a K1000 i'v wanted to buy a 50mm lens for(only
> body cap currently)and a local shop has two,a M50 f
> 2.0 and an A 50 f2.0(both Pentax) for about $40 US($60
> Can)each.If i buy one i'llwant to run a quick roll of something
> to check sharp
On Tue, 2002-11-05 at 08:14, David Brooks wrote:
> May be i did something wrong then on my one and only
> bid on ebay so far.It was a lens i wanted with a BIN of
> $250,first bid was $9.99.I was willing to go $200.00
> so thats what i put in my max bid box.When i checked the
> bidding mine was the
Shaun,
You might want to consider looking for a used Pentax K 24/2.8 or A
24/2.8. I have the former, and it's quite good and quite small. I
can't say how it stacks up against the FA* 24mm, but it take 52mm
filters in case you already have some that size.
-Scott
On Wed, 2002-11-13 at 14:07, Sh
On Wed, 2002-11-20 at 07:54, Michel Carrère-Gée wrote:
> Scott Nelson a écrit:
> > Does the MZ-S have any kind of mirror lockup or prefire?
> >
> > Just curious.
> >
> > -Scott
> >
> Prefire coupled with 2s self timer if PF-14 = 2
> (on PF-14=1 se
Pentax Stuff:
MZ5n
FA28-70 f/4
A50 f/1.7
FA 80-200 f/4.7-5.6
and I just bought a K 24 f/2.8 on ebay the other day.
Non Pentax stuff:
Manfrotto 190CL + 352RC ballhead
various UV filters, Polarizers, etc.
-Scott
- Original Message -
From: James Adams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTEC
> A normal SLR's TTL metering won't be any good for pinhole photography
since
> there's no aperture size feedback to the camera's exposure circuit. A
> normal lens' aperture ring operates the camera's diaphragm resistor to
tell
> the meter what aperture you've selected. With pinhole photograph
I just got my first roll of pictures back after buying this lens, and the
two shots I took with it are vignetted in one corner (completely black, not
just dark). Another shot is fine. I was using a standard 52mm Hoya UV
filter on it at the time. Do any of you who own this lens have similar
issu
Hi Chris
Good luck with your little project, but I don't think it will save you very
much money. I built a electronic release for my MZ-5n because I thought the
$45 cdn was too much to ask for what is essentially only a two stage switch.
Mine cost about $20 in parts, but took a few hours to put
My 5n doesn't allow it either. It would be nice if it did though, because I
know that the shutter can do these speeds when in P or AV mode.
-Scitt
- Original Message -
From: Matt Bevers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 3:11 PM
Subject: Re: Intermed
The cable switch is just two switches; I built my own for a MZ 5n. If you take a
voltmeter to the output pins, one will be at ground and the other two at ~ +3V? I
think the top contact is the ground. Shorting one contact to ground (don't remember
which one) causes the camera to focus (1/2 wa
PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 12:01 AM
Subject: Re: building a darkroom timer
> On Mon, 27 May 2002, Scott Nelson wrote:
>
> > Hi Chris
> >
> > Good luck with your little project, but I don't think it will save you
very
> > much money. I built a electr
I'm thinking of buying some colour corrected light bulbs and making my own
light box out of wood ~11"x14". Has anyone done this. I'd appreciate any
tips. Please share your experiences / triumphs / disasters with me. I
would guess that the critcal issues are:
achieving uniform light diffusion
I had this happen with my MZ-5n, affecting 2 rolls of film. After I got the
first one back, and had finished with the second I gave the pressure plate
a good dusting, and brushed all the dust out of the film chamber. Now give
the inside camera a once over with the blower brush every time I chan
I once shot at 300mm from the prone position on a mountaineering trip,
because I didn't have a tripod. I don't remember what the shutter speed
was, but it was f/5.6 with fuji velvia at sunset. It's not the sharpest
shot in the world, but certainly acceptable. Now that I think about it, I
should
Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences. I'll let you all know how it
goes.
-Scott
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe,
go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
I've been thinking about getting a second body for a while. Perusing Boz's
site, the two the jumped at me were the MX and KX, but I'm wondering if
there is another good (maybe a bit cheaper) alternative out there that will
meet my needs.
Here are my criteria:
1.) Should be cheap
2.) Must be toug
Thanks to everyone for their repplies. I will admit that the MX is out of
my price range for now, but I'd like to know if there other bodies (even
non-pentax) that will meet my needs, especially If these bodies can had had
for under $100 US.
-Scott
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail
I have a SMC K 24/2.8 that is missing the little round white button. It's
not a big deal for me, but I was wondering if anyone had some spare one
kicking around collecting dust. If not, where can I go to look or such a
part? Will Pentax Canada have them?
-Scott
-
This message is from the Penta
Dick,
Yes, sunny 16 recommends 1/125 and f/16 for direct sunlight, i.e. no clouds.
This is the same exposure as 1/250 f/11, what Fuji reccomends for regular
sunlight. On snow, this is still the 'correct' exposure, but the snow will
be so bright that it will just be a solid mass of white, hence F
> You'd think that since they have a new 'flagship', the MZ-S, another one
is
> not in the works or is not coming any time soon.
Maybe the MZ-S already supports a USM focussing interface using the PZ
contacts, but Pentax just hasn't told us yet. We all know how good Pentax
is at keeping secrets
Also check out the MZ-5n. It lacks multi exposure and 1/4000 shutter speed,
but it has better metering options, a glass penta-prism for a brighter
viewfinder and a bit tougher build (I can't verify that one, because I
don't have a MZ-6). The user interface is much different, with an old style
s
Hi everyone,
I've just joined the PDML. I've been reading it for a little while, but now
I decided to take the plunge. I live in Vancouver, BC, and I've only been
doing photography for just under a year. I'm also an avid mountaineer, rock
climber and backcountry skier, so most of my photograph
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