> Matt Quimby wrote:
>
>>> I?vegot my wing spars aligned and attached my wing attach fittings. The next
> step, according to my plans, is to ream the inboard-to-outboard fitting
> holes from 3/16" to ??. This being obviously a pretty critical step to
> get right, I?m looking for some input on how
At 04:46 PM 8/29/2015, you wrote:
>with a 3/166??? bolt connecting my WAFs instead
>of ?
. I suppose my only recourse is
>careful, careful drilling. And then reaming.
I think you're right.
Sid Wood wrote:
> I had understood that the WAF bolts in shear were a backup for the
> real attachment: The clamping action due to the bolts squeezing the
> two outer and inner WAF plates together.
The stress guys I've worked with over the years don't even consider
friction as a useful force in
Typically the nut is only there as part of the design to keep the shear
pin, in this case the bolt, from falling out.
Chris Kinnaman
On 8/29/2015 2:45 PM, Mark Langford via KRnet wrote:
> Sid Wood wrote:
>
>> I had understood that the WAF bolts in shear were a backup for the
>> real attachment
I had understood that the WAF bolts in shear were a backup for the real
attachment: The clamping action due to the bolts squeezing the two outer and
inner WAF plates together. If the bolts were a sliding fit, then the WAFs
would need to move to get the holding action without the clamping action
Matt Quimby wrote:
>> I?vegot my wing spars aligned and attached my wing attach fittings. The next
step, according to my plans, is to ream the inboard-to-outboard fitting
holes from 3/16" to ??. This being obviously a pretty critical step to
get right, I?m looking for some input on how some other
Aluminum tanks seem to be the choice of today, but 20 years ago, I built mine
with Safe-T-Poxy, then sloshed with alcohol resistant sloshing compound. While
many have told me the slosh compound has a 10 year life, at 20 years, I see no
indication of any kind of degradation in it. Perhaps that'
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