> My plan is to epoxy them to the back of an aluminum plate, and use a
> bench supply to supply power.
My hotplate is rated at 800 W.
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> How about an aluminimum plate on top of the hot plate. 3/8" would
> distribute the heat pretty well and costless than the fancy hotplate
If I did that, first I'd bring the plate to a machinist friend and
remove as much of its existing thermal mass as I could. It's already
got more thermal c
Kai-Martin Knaak wrote:
> On Sun, 11 Nov 2007 15:20:11 -0800, Dave N6NZ wrote:
>
>> I bought a hand full of cement encapsulated
>> power resistors at one of the local surplus houses. My plan is to epoxy
>> them to the back of an aluminum plate, and use a bench supply to supply
>> power.
>
> Epo
On Sun, 11 Nov 2007 15:20:11 -0800, Dave N6NZ wrote:
> I bought a hand full of cement encapsulated
> power resistors at one of the local surplus houses. My plan is to epoxy
> them to the back of an aluminum plate, and use a bench supply to supply
> power.
Epoxy thermal conductivity is three ord
I'm thinking the same thing. I bought a hand full of cement encapsulated
power resistors at one of the local surplus houses. My plan is to epoxy
them to the back of an aluminum plate, and use a bench supply to supply
power.
-dave
Steven Michalske wrote:
> How about an aluminimum plate on top
How about an aluminimum plate on top of the hot plate. 3/8" would
distribute the heat pretty well and costless than the fancy hotplate
On Nov 10, 2007, at 9:42 PM, DJ Delorie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> What are you using for a hot plate?
>
> A $20 "Aroma" brand. See http://www.delorie
On Sun, 11 Nov 2007 07:24:04 -0500
Bob Paddock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> If you don't care if the board is trashed and you are after the parts,
> a small Blow Torch is effective, but smells *REALLY REALLY BAD*,
> do it outside or open all the windows.
Done that, but much better is a heat gun,
On Saturday 10 November 2007 02:36:05 pm DJ Delorie wrote:
> I just had an occasion to remove a bunch of SMT parts from a proto
> board (so they can be moved to the production board). I used the
> hotplate, because many of them had solder under the part, not next to.
If you don't care if the boar
> I am a little nervous about the SparkFun suggestion, since it involves
> a non-stick coating. Don't those start to break down at right around
> the same temperature that solder melts, leading to the release of
> toxic fumes?
63/37 solder melts at around 361F (182C), which is well within the
in
> What are you using for a hot plate?
A $20 "Aroma" brand. See http://www.delorie.com/pcb/hotplate/
> The SparkFun site talks about using a cheap US$20 hot plate from Target.
That's what I've got.
> They mention uneven heating. A friend who happens to be a Mech E
> with a specialty in heat t
On Sat, Nov 10, 2007 at 04:10:43PM -0800, Dave N6NZ wrote:
>
>
> DJ Delorie wrote:
> > I just had an occasion to remove a bunch of SMT parts from a proto
> > board (so they can be moved to the production board). I used the
> > hotplate, because many of them had solder under the part, not next to
DJ Delorie wrote:
> I just had an occasion to remove a bunch of SMT parts from a proto
> board (so they can be moved to the production board). I used the
> hotplate, because many of them had solder under the part, not next to.
What are you using for a hot plate?
The SparkFun site talks about u
I just had an occasion to remove a bunch of SMT parts from a proto
board (so they can be moved to the production board). I used the
hotplate, because many of them had solder under the part, not next to.
What I did:
Put a small dot of solder paste in each corner of the board (for small
boards, o
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