Clark wrote:
> ... when changing between the three filters the width of the plot
> varied very little. I would have expected to see a vastly different
> shape between the 800 Hz filter and the 250 Hz filter.
>
> So, do I need to take the "screws" out anyway?
I'm sorry, OM, but this is the
Barry wrote:
>The 100k pot for VFO tuning broke yesterday. It really looks strange. The
>back is broken off. I have heard that there is a better pot with a metal
>shaft. Could someone tell me where I can get one
Hi Barry,
Something must have struck the VFO knob and pushed it into the panel.
Barry wrote:
>The 100k pot for VFO tuning broke yesterday. It really looks strange. The
>back is broken off. I have heard that there is a better pot with a metal
>shaft. Could someone tell me where I can get one
Hi Barry,
Something must have struck the VFO knob and pushed it into the panel.
Chris wrote:
>Am I the only person on earth who wishes that there was a
>21 MHz option for the KX1? I emailed Elecraft some months
>ago and was told that there are no plans to make the KX1
>anything other than 20M-80M...
There are good fundamental technical reasons why the KX1 doesn't cover 17m
Bernie wrote:
>During the voltage checks in the first part of the RF board
>assembly: the voltage on pin 5 of U3 was 3.73, slightly less
>than the specified 3.8-4.2 range.
It's all OK and within expected circuit variations.
Pin 5 of U3 is the audio output signal of the AF preamplifier, and the
> I found a 100K Ohm resistor that was not listed on the
> inventory page - it was not taped with the others but
> was just loose in the bag.
>
> What is this one for?
It would be my guess that it is R19, associated with the front panel assembly.
R19 is a 100k-ohm resistor that was added *afte
Carl,
There is no more interesting QRP band than 15m when it is open.
When 15m is not open, often 17m will not be open. IMHO, 15m is
clearly the better choice over 17m for the KFL1-4. Of course,
if you were really set on having both 17m and 15m, the KFL1-4
in reality supports 40m, 30m, and any t
>... the 15M receiver has very poor reception and a very loud,
> steady tone on one frequency. The tone's bandwith is very narrow...
>
>...has anyone any idea what may be the cause of the steady tone?
>...initial hunch is that it is a symptom of a short, possibly in the
>crystal.
It would help if
NN4X wrote:
>Personally, I don't think so, and I'm voicing my opinion.
>
>Now, if I was absolutely, 100% morally outraged, I'd cancel my order
Why not address the issue of just what this repetitive non-stop
nonsense is supposed to remedy? Do complaining parties believe that
Elecraft is holding b
Glenn Haffly wrote:
> Is there a reason for not using an IC socket soldered to the
> various boards rather than direct soldering an IC to the boards ?
Glenn,
IC sockets are generally appropriate only for ICs containing firmware which may
need upgrading. For almost all other situations, the use
Is there any relationship between the message subject line and the content
of these two postings?
73,
Mike / KK5F
-Original Message-
From: Jimmy Lee <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Leigh L. Klotz, Jr. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Thursday, June 17, 2004 7:15 AM
Subject:
Steve WB6RSE wrote:
> Anyone have any experience changing the K1 from
> LSB to USB CW?
Steve,
That's an interesting question.
The K1 front end mixer injects the local oscillator (LO) signal ABOVE the
incoming RF signal (high side injection), while the product detector injects
the BFO signal BEL
Steve wrote:
>The advantage to USB CW is that ... it is often useful to hear
> what's up the band as you tune higher. ...With LSB you would
>hear the last station worked only if he was below your listening
>frequency rather than above, especially if the signal is weak. For
>serious DX chasing, USB
Larry asked:
>Has anyone used a CW Reader and/or CW keyboard with the K1
Larry,
The most sophisticated electronic CW reader will function very poorly in
comparison to even a very mediocre human CW reader. They can be fun to try
on perfectly sent strong signals like that of the W1AW broadcasts
Jimmy Lee wrote:
>What antenna do you use for portable operation?
Hi Jimmy,
I've been interested in portable HF operation, from campsites primarily, for
about 30 years. I've tried just about everything for antennas, and wasted a
lot of money on commercial vertical and loop abominations. Abou
Jeff Imel wrote:
> The HF Pack organization sponsors and annual antenna shootout...
> http://tinyurl.com/2lzgm
That is a pretty interesting site. Thanks for the URL.
It confirms the very dismal performance of *all* those "popular" HF short
loading-coil verticals in comparison to the most simp
Brian Mury wrote:
>I would also like to see a comparison between the horizontal and
>vertical antennas. I don't think the horizontal antenna would
>necessarily beat the vertical - it depends on a few variables, a couple
>big ones that come to mind being the height of the dipole and the
>vertical's
Martin wrote:
>...my multi band dipole works a treat. It is a home brew set up with
>3 horizontal dipoles cut for 80/40/20m one above the other with
>about 1-2 feet separation at the ends. All on the same coax with no balun
>or ground connection. The wire is cheap annealed solid copper PVC insulat
Stuart Rohre wrote:
>Posters should disable their anti spam authentication if they want a direct
>answer to their question.
>
>...I should not have to go out of my way in my attempt to help.
Why be so unreasonable, Stuart? The other fellow is just trying to say "My
time is much more valuable t
Jim wrote:
>My K1 - 4 bander has a transmit offset problem(Or I do !)
>
>On transmit the frequency should increase by about +700 Hz.
>It decreases about -100Hz on 20m, to about -900Hz on 17m.
Jim,
The K1 receiver functions in LSB mode, which means the associated
transmitter frequency shou
Edward wrote:
>If anyone needs an antenna tuner for their K1 2-band model, I have
>a new in the box KAT1 for sale
Hi Ed,
Don't be too modest...the KAT1 works with four band K1s also!
73,
Mike / KK5F
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> Does anyone know where we stand on the sunspot cycle? Are at the bottom
> (please say yes!) and when is it expected to start to inch up?
It may just be my own personal perception, but this passing cycle, the
fourth since I was first licensed, has been the most generally disappointing
one. It
Jeff wrote:
> Page 30, column 2, box 2: Add "Do NOT use a power supply over [3?]
> amps as any short on the board could vaporize a trace.
A wise man would always use a fused DC power lead, not just for initial testing
but also for normal operation. If you ever develope a DC power short, such a
Art wrote:
>... it is very easy to 'touch' the main tuning knob and you are up/down
>the band somewhere.
Hi Art,
I also find the K1 VFO pot too easy to turn, even when I turn it intentionally.
I placed some hand cut felt washers between the front panel and the back of
the VFO knob to add some
I wrote:
> I placed some hand cut felt washers between the front panel and the
> back of the VFO knob to add some stiffness.
Sandy wrote:
> Where does one get thick felt?
Sandy,
I made several thin felt washers out of sheet felt that you can find in the
sewing supplies at places like "Hobby
Lloyd Lachow wrote:
>I'm about to construct a K1-2, and wondered if there
>were any "must-do" mods to consider, or if the
>current manual is pretty up-to-date ...
Lloyd,
How early is your K1? For K1s with Rev. D RF boards (mid-2002 or earlier), the
following URL contains just about all major K
George / W5YR" wrote:
> The + output terminal of the VS-35M Astron supply goes to the anode of a
> high-current diode
Hi George,
I assume that the Astron output voltage is about 13.8 vdc. Assuming a 0.7 vdc
voltage drop across the diode, your deep discharge battery sees about 13.1 vdc.
Is
Lynn asked:
>Anybody got a status report on KI6WX backpacking in
>Wyoming mountatins with his KX1.
Tom / N0SS posted this last night:
Subject: [Elecraft] Tracking John, KI6WX on his trek in Wyoming...
From: Tom Hammond
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 20:36:59 -0500
Folks:
Lest we forget to do so,
Steve wrote:
>While I agree that Mouser is a super parts source,
>nothing beats buying Elecraft parts from ... Elecraft!
I wonder about a couple of things:
(1) Is the supply of parts at least a financial break-even enterprise
for Elecraft? Or is it a service provided at a net loss?
(2
I would *never* buy any kit that requires more than an item or two of SMT
work. SMT construction is specifically designed *only* for machine
assembly. IMO, any SMT kit must come with almost all the SMT components
pre-assembled to the PC boards to be acceptable.
I'm not against SMT. In fact, I
I wrote:
>> SMT construction is specifically designed *only* for machine
>> assembly. IMO, any SMT kit must come with almost all the SMT
>> components pre-assembled to the PC boards to be acceptable.
To which Blake responded:
>Misinformation.
The fact that some humans can manage to assembl
John wrote:
>Does anyone have any comments on this radio,pro or con?
I bought one at a hamfest 20 years ago. I've still got it, but in storage
somewhere.
It's pretty large for its power level (10 watts, IIRC).
It should be easy to work on, since there are no ICs, and most of the PCBs
can be e
Scott wrote:
>My only HF rig is the K1 and it suits my needs well...
>My K1 cost me half what the K2 would have when built to suit,
>and the KX1 wasn't available when I bought the rig.
The K1 is still tops for field work, in my book.
Even had the KX1 been available, I'd have bought my K1 (SN 175
>I *really* need one for my KX1. I have trashed 2 or 3 pots by
>compression when carrying it in my waist pack.
I've always thought that rigs like the KX1 with top-mounted controls are
especially prone to this type of damage, with the controls spead out over a
larger surface area. When the contr
James wrote:
>... I am the fourth owner of K-1 SN0004 with a 40/20 M module.
>I have had it for 2 years. I have found that the more I use it the less
>I like it.
I've had K1 SN 175 for almost four years (original owner). I've found it to be
the best portable QRP rig, by large margin, of the nin
Dohn wrote:
>...I have studied norse and I have every intention of making some
>contacts this weekend.
Is there a Norwegian contest going? :-)
>My question: I have watched my mentor zero beat with a factory transceiver.
>It was fascinating and I think I understand the concept. I don't exactly
>Way back in the early 1960s, there were SSB rigs like the SBE-33 and SBE-34,
>the Heath HW-12/22/32, and the WRL "Duo-Bander" that were SSB only.
But in fairness, the SBE-33 and -34 were primarily intended for mobile
operation, and few who care about the quality and safety of their driving woul
Mike wrote:
>After finishing my K1 a couple weeks ago there was one tiny thing
>bugging me. There is a small gap between the front panel board and the
>chassis fasteners so that when uppermost buttons are pushed, even
>gently, I could see the display slightly pushing backwards.
>Luckily I had
Tom wrote:
>The event is in commemoration of the work of 18-year old Willis
>Porter Corwin, 9ABD, of Jefferson City who was the third station in
>the relay that set the transcontinental record on this date in 1917.
He sounds like an interesting fellow. There doesn't seem to be much on the
int
>Are there any band choices on the KFL1-2 that are not compatible with
>each other? I can't find anything in the documentation that says
>otherwise. On my last K1, I had 40 and 80 meters on the same board.
>It worked fine and I had no problems. Now someone is telling me that
>this combination sh
I wrote:
>Only on the four-band KFL1-4 board is there a strict limitation to the
>allowable band combinations to 40m/30m/20m/15m due to the cutoff
>frequencies of the elliptical low pass filters on the board.
I should have stated the actual allowable band combinations for the KFL1-4 as:
40m, 30m
Ken asked:
>With the sunspot cycle soon to be on the upswing, I'm
>wondering if Elecraft has any plans to offer 10 and 15
>meter options for the KX1.
The AD9834 DDS chip in the KX1 is clocked at its maximum rate of 50 MHz. The
highest relatively clean frequency that can be generated from a DDS
wa5pgl wrote:
> K1 Serial Number 2305 operational on 2/6/07.
> 2-Band (20&40)w/Antenna Tuner
That's 2130 K1 units since my number 175 arrived in November, 2000. I ordered
it in June, so I waited five months. It was worth it. I'm not all that fond
of the monotony of stuffing resistors and cap
Mike wrote:
>Actually, the 9834 is now spec'ed to 75MHz.
I believe that's only since mid-2006. Most of the installed base of AD9834
chips would be 50 MHz rated.
>Problem is finding oscillators.
That's seems to be very true if one searches on-line catalogs. The one for the
KX1 comes pre-inst
Cathy wrote:
>I've nearly completed my K1, and the receiver has been calibrated and
>works extremely well
>
>Sadly, the transmitter has not been so kind. Any attempt to put the
>unit in transmit mode (by pushing WPM+ and WPM- together) resets the
>power out to 0.1 watts, which is confirm
Ian wrote:
> The K1 is not a K2 lite...
Very true words indeed! A K2 doesn't meet many of my requirements for
performance and versatility in a lightweight, compact, low power consumption
rig. The K2 doesn't tempt me.
I ordered a K1 because of its impressive features soon after I saw the
Stuart wrote:
>Even simpler is a 80m dipole fed with balanced line to a tuner for all band
>use. The window line is less costly than coax. A good quality tuner is
>less lossy in multiband use than coax/ tuner balun, etc.. Balanced antennas
>have fewer problems than off center feeds. Balanced l
>when i built my k1, i set it up for the 150khz range..
>
>looking back at my manual, it says that it is strongly advised to use
>the 80khz range..
>
>is it strongly enough advised for me to mod my machine and put it back
>to the 80khz range?
No, that's really bad advice unless you live in an IT
David wrote:
>display registers 12.2/3 volts; my DMM across the
>battery terminals registers 12.60 volts.
The KX1 MPU doesn't sense battery or power supply output voltage until it has
passed through reverse polarity protection diode D2 or D3 (1N5817). At the
current that your KX1 is drawin
Jeff wrote:
>I built a K1 in 2004 and sold it. I'm thinking about building another
>one, but the K1 I had did not go above about 7075 kHz on 40 meters.
>I'd like the band coverage to be up to about 7120 kHz. As I recall,
>the only way to do that is to replace a capacitor, I think it was, but
>at
James wrote:
>...noticed the manual has directions for Rev C and Rev D.
>...should I not have received the "latest" rev, which
>appears to be D?
Don wrote:
>The KNB1 electrical design has not changed between board revisions C and D
It's much simpler than that. There has **NEVER** been a revisi
Bruce wrote:
>1) The front panel "offset" pot alters the RX frequency even when
>RIT is off.
That is abnormal. When RIT is OFF, the RIT pot should cause NO change.
Front Panel board Q2 must be turned on by the OFFSET signal from FP-U1 to
disable RIT. I'd check the connections and traces from
Dave asked:
>How easy would it be to convert the 2 band module which is on
>40-20 mtrs at present to cover 80 and 17 mtrs and what exactly
>would i need parts wise ...
It's a rather easy project that can be done in a couple of hours if you are
slow and take your time. I did exactly the same thi
>I have K1 # 1423, do not see ATTN LED blinking in a darkned room.
I guarantee that it does. But *only* while the LCD is displaying the battery
voltage.
Mike / KK5F
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>As I tune up the band (to higher frequencies) on 40, the pitch of the
>received signal goes up. On the 820, the pitch goes DOWN as I tune up the
>band.
This info won't be of help, but for *any* sideband receiver:
If the received signal's pitch INcreases when tuning UPward, the receiver is in
>Looking at the new K3 has me admiring the slick countersunk external
>hardware. I'm wondering how hard it would be to duplicate this with
>my existing K2 panels?
One has been able to admire that type of Elecraft construction since the
appearance of the K1 almost seven years ago. The K1 has a
>...The table shows C17 & C19 as 56, but the components I
>have are labeled 560J. Do I have the right capacitors
There's a very good summary of capacitor marking conventions at:
http://xtronics.com/kits/ccode.htm
There's some interesting non-obvious conventions to this marking system. Most
kn
Ron wrote:
>FM repeaters, for example, sometimes use the "beep" to signal when the
>repeater drops the carrier, since that happens after a delay following
>the last transmission.
Most repeater systems which generate that "beep" do so to indicate that the
time-out timer (TOT) has just reset, well
Thom wrote:
>I remember trying to find out what frequencies the various MARS programs used
>in
>order to determine if I could use the K2 to checkit. My emails explained why
>I
>was asking.
>
>Army Mars never answered...
>
>AirForce Mars told me they couldn't give me the frequencies
>due to se
> The MARS callsigns have changed a bit over the years. At one time
> they used prefixes which are now allocated to amateur radio.
All the 1x3 and 2x3 ham-call format call signs that were being used by the
military services (including but not limited to MARS calls) were abandoned in
the mid-19
Jack wrote:
>Wayne owes me about $2500.
Wayne is one simple-minded bombastic buffoon, in addition to his legend
misdealings with people such as cited above.
For the past couple of decades he has often appeared on late-night kooky stupid
AM radio with Art Bell, a much kindred spirit.
For one o
Ed wrote:
>I need a visual program to align my K1 (s/n 31) ...
Hi Ed,
Be careful about using Spectrogram for the K1 alignment except (maybe) for
determining the proper BFO frequency setting (and even there it's not at all
necessary).
If you optimize the K1 filter board adjustments in receive mo
> Does anyone have any suggestions on where to buy a cw lock
> indicator for my K1?
What is a "cw lock indicator?"
Mike / KK5F
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Pauls wrote:
>I have recently upgraded my K1-2 to a K1-4 so now I have my
>old 40/20m module.
>
>I would like to mod this board to a 80/40m module...
>
>Would I only need to change the 20m side ...
It would be very easy to do...the hardest part will be removing about, IIRC, 15
components associ
> I'm guessing SO239s mate with something
> else, and it doesn't seem to be a PL239 either.
>
> I'm PRETTY sure it's a PL259...
Yes, the SO-239 and PL-159 designations originate from the US Army Signal Corps
component nomenclature system that was in effect before mid-WWII. Therefore,
you won'
Tom wrote:
>I've been reading the manual for the K1I don't see mention of
>auto-sensing of the paddle as in the K2.
That's because the K1 keyer does NOT have the "ADn" and "ADr" auto-detect
feature.
However, the K1 quick reference card on Elecraft's site at
http://www.elecraft.com/K1/K1q
Tom wrote:
>The K1 should arrive next week. I see a lot of mods got incorporated...
>There is mention of shortening the AGC response time by swapping
>a 1.0uf for the original 2.2uf.Did that mod make it to the current
>production units as well?
No, I don't think Elecraft has "embraced" th
Paul wrote:
>Just reading page 59 of the K1 manual and it talks about provisions for
>improvements to the VFO temperature compensation
>
>And the use of D3, R17 and R18.
>
>Anyone tried this out and done any before and after tests.
I've heard no reports of such experiments in the five years that
Don wrote:
>I would not regard 100 Hz of drift in the K1 as a design problem at all -
>The K1 spec is for drift less that 200 Hz after a 5 minute warmup.
>
>The fact that the K1 does not use a DDS vfo is not a 'design problem'
>as was stated...
I wholeheartedly agree. I had been using (and still
It was written:
>... the K1 just seems like a let down after the K2 and KX1.
There it is, K1 owners! If you've been feeling depressed, low, and irregular
ever since you got your K1, the best all-round compact QRP rig ever made, now
you know why. I only wish I'd been smart enough to see it ea
>Well, there you are! "Restorable" ARC-5s are expensive but junkers aren't.
Most have been ham-hacked into oblivion. Today, it would be a shame to deface
or modify in *any* way WWII-era military radios that have managed to avoid 60
years of ham defacement. Please, use a "pre-hacked" unit if yo
Tom asked:
> Does anyone have a link to a photo of a K1 with the KBT-1
> internal battery installed with the K1's cover in place?
>
> I cannot find any photo's of what the two knobs look like
> to access the battery compartment.
The "knobs" you speak of are just replacements for the two small
Jim wrote:
>- Two lovely NOS 837 tubes, ready to sell. Neat-and-clean but
>not-perfectly-level
> workbench. Concrete basement floor.
>
>One lovely NOS 837 tube, ready to sell.
Well, at least it wasn't a 211, 25, 2A3, or some other vintage tube made rare
only due to vacuum tube audiofool deman
Kieth wrote:
>Hold on a second (AS) there Ron :-) My understanding is that BK, CQ and
>SOS are not to be sent with no space but as individual letters complete
>with the proper space around them.
There's the **biggest** mistake in Morse telegraphy!
SOS is ALWAYS to be sent with NO space between
Sandy wrote:
>Even prisoners used it in prison camps by tapping on walls or pipes.
I don't think International Morse serves very effectively when the characters
must be simple taps. How does the receiving operator tell if a tap is supposed
to be a dash? In my experience, I'd say it can't be d
Keith wrote:
>Some time next week I expect a little box with a K1 in it. I'll have
>fun comparing it to my TenTec Omni V. I could see me replacing both
>with a K2/100 some day ...
I don't think one should consider the K2 as an upgrade to the K1. These two
units fill different rolls. For my p
Keith wrote:.
>The keyer in the rig is not quite what I'm used to ...
You may want to try setting the keyer for iambic mode A and then mode B to
see which one is more natural to you. I personnaly abhor iambic mode B
keyers, but the K1 keyer can be set for either mode. Its mode A keyer suits
me
Don wrote:
>The fact that mode B can send a dit just by holding the dah paddle a bit
>longer has always boggled my mind - if I want a dit, I feel I should tap the
>dit paddle!!! Mode B can drive me nuts.
Tom wrote:
>> When I let go of the paddle I want the dit or dah that I am hearing to be
>>
Keith wrote:
>The knobs on my K1 have a bit of a loose feel to me.
The early K1 units were provided with potentiometers that had a tremendous
amount of shaft wobble. Elecraft later went to a pot design that had a much
greater amount of shaft support. I had to replace my AF gain pot when it go
>I know the specs say < 200 Hz / hour but I'm really hoping to see
>less than 100 Hz per month, kind of thing
Pardon me for asking, but is this a realizable goal (3 ppm/month at 28 MHz
over an unspecified temperature range) for the K1 frequency system which
consists of a crystal hetrodyne oscillat
Don wrote:
> Note that the K1 will remember 6 bands...
It is my understanding that the K1 will store *one* display calibration
correction for each of the HF bands that can be assigned to a K1 band. Since
each K1 band can be assigned to any of the nine HF bands, I believe that the K1
can "reme
Don wrote:
>Unless it was expanded recently, the K1 can be set to any of the 9 HF bands,
>but it only has memory slots for 6 of them - one can choose any 6 of the 9
>available bands.
Thanks. I've made the "one calibration correction per each of nine bands"
statement many times before and never
There was a recent discussion on this list about a six-band limit on the number
of bands (out of the nine HF bands which may be assigned) for which the K1 MPU
would retain LCD frequency calibration data.
Wayne has provided the following clarification:
> The calibration table has one entry for e
>In contest operation, we'll dispense with the DE and K altogether.
IMHO, this practice reflects badly on the contester (on his Morse
"professionalism," if you will). Unfortunately, it also becomes for many a
bad habit carried over into routine operation. We're only talking about
taking a *smal
It was written:
>Earthlink should be ashamed for promulgating such crap.
and
>... You sent me an emaiil with a question, but my response was blocked
>by Earthlink's 'block everything' filter that serves as an excuse for a spam
>filter.
It's not entirely earthlink's fault. Ultimately, it is the
>1. How do the IF filters in the K2 compare to the audio filters in the K1.
I can't address the K2, but the variable bandpass filtering in the K1 takes
place in the IF crystal filter network. The audio filtering is fixed.
>5. Knob wobbliness. The knobs on my K1 are just a bit wobbly.
Earl
John wrote:
>I have had my K1 #1734 in use occaisionally since I built it.
>The other day I noticed quite abit of drift,even after warm up,
>like 1-2 khz. over an hour or so.
That sounds unusually high unless the ambient temperature around the K1 was
changing significantly or the DC voltage was
>My K1 is very sensitive to placement. If I pick it up or turn it upside
>down, I can hear it shift up or down in frequency.
Anything that squeezes or otherwise distorts the K1 bottom cover plate (such as
when the case is grabbed during repositioning) will cause a small frequency
shift (I see w
Craig asked:
>... what are the prospects for a 17 or 15 meter module for the KX1
Not very likely at all, which is unfortunate. 15m is my favorite band.
The clocking rate of the KX1's AD9834 DDS chip is 50 MHz (the maximum rated for
the chip). Typically, the highest usable output frequency fro
Don wrote:
>I purchased from Elecraft a 4 band module and built it for 40/30/20/15.
>I also purchased the parts to rework the 40/20 board into a 40/80 board.
>
>...how involved is it to swap the 4 band and the 2 band back and forth?
You'll want to replace the 20m parts on your 40/20m board with
Scott Lindstrom wrote:
>OK, I admit it, I wasn't paying attention and
>installed RP 1, 2 & 6 "backward". I have no
>experience with resistor packs and don't know why a
>resistor would be polarized. So, the question is, is
>this a critical error? I've tried to solder-wick them
>out, but with thro
>> I have a K1 in which I just swaped the 17M parts for 20M parts. Now the
>> filter board needs to be aligned. Question is how does one get around the
>> KAT to access the filter board?
>Just remove the tuner board and install the jumper in the tuner connector,
>do the alignment and reinstall
I wonder if I'm the only one who finds it aggravating to respond to a request
on this list, and get in return a message with a link I have to fill out for
the honor of passing the information to the requestee?
Please...if you are requesting help, don't insult me by expecting me to jump
through
>Thanks to the list for the comments and suggestions on K1 tuning range.
Claims that the full 180 kHz tuning range of the K1 is too touchy or hard to
use are way overstated. Perhaps it would be if one were operating from a tank
over bumpy obstacles.
I've used the 180 kHz tuning range for more
>I was wondering if anyone has considered a 17 meter option.
The clocking rate of the KX1's AD9834 DDS chip is 50 MHz, the maximum rated for
the chip. Typically, the highest usable output frequency from a DDS chip is no
greater than about one-third the clock rate, or about 16.6 MHz.
Thus, the
>I changed the VFO frequency range capacitor to 120 pf and now have
>a 178 khz tuning range.
That's why I've always termed this option as the "180 kHz" option rather than
Elecraft's "150 kHz" characterization.
>Since I only need 125 khz to reach the SKCC frequency of
>7120 khz, I may try a 100
Craig wrote:
>...15 or 17 meters was one of the most difficult decisions I've had
>to make in quite some time ;>) Too bad it couldn't have been "both".
It can be. All you have to do is install the 17m crystal in place of the 20m
crystal and align the 15m band first, followed by 17m. Elecraf
> We call it "CW" and mean "communications using the International
> Morse Code" when CW means "continuous waves."
"Communications using Morse code by keyed continuous waves" in contrast to
"communications using Morse code by keyed damped waves," which was the type of
signal emitted by those old
Jim wrote:
>...it is my understanding that arc transmitters (like
>the Poulsen arc) generated continuous (undamped) waves.
Right you are. My mistake.
I don't have any transmitters of that era in my collection, though I do have
the remanants of a 100-year-old coherer receiver, and a complete
Ed wrote:
>I bought six AA-size Li-ion 3.7V/750mah batteries. I installed them into
>each battery holder, but wired the two battery holders in parallel
>instead of in series.
Ed,
Have you had this arrangement in service long enough to determine that there
isn't any significant problem associate
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