The headliner panels for my new old boat are completely missing, which is a
bummer because the old ones would have been useful for templates. It is what it
is, but I don't even know what the originals looked like, or what materials
were used. I would appreciate any advice from owners of similar
Yes.
Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:
> Are you talking about the cover panels that you remove to get at bolts?
>
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39 Erie, PA
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> sthoma20---
h bolt access panels on Touche' with
> plastic sheet from mcmaster.com. It was 1/8 or so thick, smooth on one side
> and textured on the other. It looks very nice and was easy to cut and
> finish. I countersunk the fastener holes for #6 or 8 flat heads.
>
> I have tried
You could also try arranging some white paper towels on a cookie sheet or bits
of plywood under the engine. Pumps are a particular candidate for suspicion in
my opinion, especially when temperature changes appear to be a factor.
Steve Thomas
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL
Ryan Doyle via CnC-L
I know one, who is very good if you want to know about your boat, but perhaps a
bit over picky if it is insurance you seek. .
Email me privately if you want more details.
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
Rino Granito via CnC-List wrote:
> The offer has been accepted :) Now on
Appropriate time for this discussion and advice, since I just purchased a roll
of the other stuff from $$ West Marine.
Steve Thomas
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL
Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List wrote:
> I tried another Butyl brand besides "Bed it" and I regret it. I have since
> used "Bed it". Yo
Does anyone know for certain what species the wood veneer would be on the
cabinets and bulkheads in my 1980 C&C36? We talk about teak wood work all the
time on this list, and certainly the fids, hand rails, and exterior trim wood
is teak, but the plywood veneer looks an awful lot like mahogany
West Marine has an automatic inflatable harness on sale today only for 150
bucks. (U.S.)
I have no experience with the product, but I just paid more than twice that
much for a Spinlock product that is not even coast guard certified.
Steve Thomas
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL
__
John,
I am interested in the autohelm, and maybe the Furuno too. A few more
details like which model of autohelm controller and associated equipment would
be helpful. Please contact me off list if you would rather. I am in the
process of fixing up a much neglected and bare bones 36.
The correct approach in my opinion. I always figured that the whole point to
having straight pipe threads in the first place was so that you could make
something like a compression flange fitting in one part and then cut a regular
tapered thread on the end.
Makes a lot of sense for tanks, and
Contact Gori. They can supply you with replacement pins, but they need to know
everything about the prop, and I mean everything. There were several different
configurations of essentially the same prop. This I had from a conversation
with them at the Miami boat show last month. I have a 13 X 9 o
Does anyone know what the original or best hose is for this application? All
the C&C owner's manual says about it is "neoprene hose", which leaves a pretty
wide latitude. I have an idea that several types might work pretty good, but
there is no hose more critical to the survival of the vessel an
Thanks!
Paul Baker via CnC-List wrote:
http://catalog.buckalgonquin.com/category/packing-box-hoses-2
> Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 19:26:21 -0500
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Packing Gland to Prop Shaft Tube Hose
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: sthom...@bellnet.ca
>
> Do
Acrylic (Plexiglass) cracks easily, but is harder and more scratch resistant
than polycarbonate (Lexan). Stock car racers use polycarbonate for windshields
in their short track race cars. It is the more crack and impact resistant of
the two plastics, but more likely to cloud if you are too aggr
I put a 13 X 9 Gori 2 blade on my on my Yanmar YSB12 equipped 27 MKIII and
after 7 or 8 years of service have no regrets whatsoever. The pitch of the prop
you select for your 30 depends very much on your engine and gearing, but in
general you want the largest diameter prop that will still give a
For what it is worth, I took a look at the Git Rot product at West Marine last
week and did not make a purchase. The directions say specifically that it is
intended only to be used in a contained space, such as in a rotted balsa core,
and is not suitable to be painted on. I forget the rest but
On two separate occasions in the last week, people here in Florida have told me
that they added powdered hot pepper to their bottom paint. Seems they are
willing to try just about anything. I don't know of any science behind it, and
the one guy is an engineer.
Steve Thomas
C&C36
On the hard
M
My sail maker sewed a piece of line into a pocket instead of using foam. His
thinking is that the line will never collapse.
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
I’m going to be ordering a new furling 135% headsail for my LF38, and would
like e
Forth!
Unique and indispensable source of knowledge and advice.
Better level of discussion than anywhere else on line.
Made new friends through this list as well.
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
C&C36
"Della Barba wrote:
Third!
Between this list and Moyer I think I have the best supported anci
One result of many years of barnicle build up, followed by scraping and
aggressive pressure washing is that a number of paint "chips" were ripped out
right down to the fibreglass or lead substrate on the
new-to-me-but-old-and-neglected C&C36 that I am attempting to renovate. My
intent for the t
That may be the first time anyone on this list has recommended 3M 5200 for
anything other than keel attachment! :)
Steve Thomas
"Dennis C. via CnC-List" wrote:
Adhere some teak to the hull with 3M 5200. Screw the straps into the teak.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Tue, M
I don't believe that there is short of ripping it apart, and even then, cracks
can be notoriously difficult to detect. Dyes and other techniques can sometimes
detect faults, but I have not been able to find any reference to a test which
is good enough to say for certain that no fault exists. A c
One note of caution for my fellow Canadians.
I ordered a few things from Defender that were on sale last year, totalling
less than $200 U.S., and they insisted on sending it via U.P.S. I paid the
shipping in advance, along with the rest of the order.
When the U.P.S. driver showed up on my fron
help him keep his doors open.
Which I'm sure you already do.
Best,
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 30, 2016, at 8:10 PM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
> One note of caution for my fellow Canadians.
> I ordered a few th
I just bought one for the 36. It is a half inch longer than the strut.
Steve Thomas
Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:
Jon,
The “Blackfish” looks like what I used last time. I can verify the size today
while I’m at the boat. Yes, it’s a bit longer than needed, but it’s easy to
sho
Only some tablets have cellular network capability, and if they do not, then
they are not likely to have GPS built in either. I bought a 10 inch Samsung Tab
2 that has LTE capability, and it does work as a chart plotter, but only as
good as the software down loaded. Hard to find cables for the T
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