I have a later model A-4, and had very good luck with the rebuild kit from
Moyer. As I recall new jets were included. Be careful as you remove them,
as I recall a deep well socket was used to avoid breakage.
I agree with others that anything beyond solvent (such as manually reaming
or cleaning t
I am on the other side of this question, with a C&C 27 Mark III that I need
to sell as I am moving; and I won't be near any decent sized lakes. I'll
probably get a small sailboat that I can trailer and launch by myself; but
the 27 needs to go this year...
I have looked at the pricing question and
I made my sheets somewhat like Dennis said, standard polyester doublebraid
(like sta-set) and dyneema for the last 15 ft or so... the "splice" is
easy. I used dyneema "soft shackles" instead of regular shackles, low
weight and they don't hurt you if they hit you. I sewed the soft shackles
into t
If you want to tie loops or jack lines or whatever with webbing use a "water
knot".
Just Google "water knot" and you will get diagrams and how to tie this
simple knot. Sewed webbing is probably better, but I have used the water
knot for years and never had one fail. Some of the sewed webbing (
There is no oil filter standard, there are some aftermarket filters that can
be fitted to the engine; such as those offered by Indigo; details at:
http://www.atomic4.com/oilfilter.html
In my humble opinion that would be a waste of time as they engine has
survived quite well for many decades
I think I do something different than most people... I have an Atomic 4
gas engine, but would not be afraid to try this with a small diesel; this
process ensures that all the raw water passages are flushed with antifreeze.
- Rig up a suction hose to the raw water pump. I use a short section
I have to chime in here in response... I have a 155% and a Lake Michigan
PHRF certificate, and I was rated at "base". LMPHRF assumes a 155%, see
document at link:
http://www.lmphrf.org/Rules_Regulations/Regulations_and_Rule.pdf
I also have a "two sail" setup with a #1 of 155% and a #3 of 95%;
My 1975 model year C&C 27 (built in late 74 based on the HIN of CCY274660974
has the original fuel tank... It is Monel which you probably can't afford
even if you could find it. Monel is a wonderful cupronickel alloy, no rust,
no fuss. My A4 runs like a champ, and is very stock (standard distri
Hi Kyle,
I have a C&C 27 that I have sailed on-and-off for several years (life and
work keep getting in the way).
I have had a single burner propane "swing stove" for several years. I tried
to fine one like mine online but don't see the exact unit. The first link
takes you to one that is avai
I had one cast in Bronze for my C&C 27 several years ago, using the old one
as the pattern. It was cost effective at the time.
There are probably many sources, but I used these folks
http://mysticriverfoundry.com/
Good luck!
Bob Wooden
C&C 27 Mk 3 Rhapsody
___
I have an old A-4... Alternator failed a couple of years ago (might have
just been the built in voltage regulator as it overcharged greatly).
I had it rebuilt and the rebuilder assured me that he rebuilt to the marine
standard. He also noted that it was a very standard alternator available
for
I just use an elastic toggle (like a sail tie) through the cleat on my mast
to hold coils. You could also do with on deck cleat and hang over the
house side.
Bob Wooden
On Fri, Oct 19, 2018, 2:22 PM wrote:
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