I am working on a rewiring project for my Universal M4-30 and ran into some
questions I am hoping someone can help clarify.
1. I took the alternator off last fall to have it checked (it was fine). My
pictures and recollection is that I disconnected two wires from the back- heavy
orange from
Hi guys, just surfacing again, trying to do a buddy a favour
I have a surplus WESTERBEKE 4-60 engine which was pulled from my boat to
accommodate my electric drive. My buddy has an ATOMIC 4 with raw water cooling
and wants to know if you can install the WESTERBEKE heat exchanger onto the
ATOMI
You need another pump, usually driven off flywheel. I have some spare A4
FWC stuff if he is interested.
Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C&C 38MkII
On the hard at Stanleys in barrington
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex
Giannelia vi
Thanks for the helpful replies. I do have a rigid vang supporting the boom, so
that is not a problem. Once the sail is down and we are on the mooring, I also
carry the main halyard aft and attach it to where the topping lift used to
attach. From your inputs so far, it sounds like 4 lines is o
Anyone have an idea of signs to look for to make sure I'm not
overtightening my keel bolts on my C&C 29-2? I tightened them last weekend
using a torque wrench and went to about 205 ft lbs for the 1 in bold and
about 70 ft lbs for the the 1/2 inch; both of which are below the values
listed on the to
So that means the base is likely soft. I ended up re-glassing area around the
two forward bolts and adding a larger ¼” aluminum plate to provide larger
surface so I can get to required torque. You can see the backing plate in this
photo.
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/members/1842-albu
Hello all...trying to source a hand starting handle for my Yanmar 3qm30 so I
may adjust my valves when the head goes back on. Tried the net to no avail.
Perhaps one of you has an extra one hanging around for purchase (or short-term
lease)?
Thanks in advance.
David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (
It should be easy enough to get one made, Dave.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
> On Apr 20, 2017, at 18:17, David via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hello all...trying to source a hand
Chuck,
I did the Adler-Barbour conversion on my ice box a long time ago. It is air
cooled and works well here in Virginia. It was not a difficult project.
Tedious, but not difficult. The compressor and coils reside in the port
lazarette on a small shelf that I glassed to the hull. I can
Gene,
The original washers on my boat were not very substantial. They did flex and
bend. After my keel R&R, I have new washers that are much more substantial
now. Actually, my new washers also have backing plates that spread the load
out much better. I highly recommend them.
Jake
Ditto.
From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2017 8:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jake Brodersen
Subject: Re: Stus-List Icebox conversion...
Chuck,
I did the Adler-Barbour conversion on my ice box a long time ago. It is air
cooled and works well here in Virgin
Hi,
I read about this tip the other day and got to try it today. It was on Paul
Calder's blog on Sailfeed, he's Nigel's son.
I had a number of screw holes in my anchor locker hatch and cockpit seat lid to
pot with epoxy to provide secure holding for the hinge screws.
I drilled out all the ex
Chuck, Jake, et al: I have just done the same conversion, switching from an
old Sea Frost unit which ran off the engine. The new unit is a Norcold
Norcolder 4408 Series, with the L-shaped plate (purchased from Defender). It
works well and is much smaller than the Sea Frost. Like Jake's it
You don't need it. You can roll the engine by hand easily enough.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 20, 2017 3:18 PM, "David via CnC-List" wrote:
Hello all...trying to source a hand starting handle for my Yanmar 3qm30 so
I may adjust my valves when the head goes back o
Another approach, if the front pulley is accessible, is to put a deep
socket on the nut holding the pulley to the crankshaft, then use a
socket wrench or a breaker bar to rotate the engine.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 4/20/2017 6:17 PM, David via CnC-List wrote:
Hello a
Hey Derek - that is a handy tip. I am going through the same process on my
C&C 29-1. I look forward to doing that with my next hole repair when I move
some cleats.
BTW - I am using Marine-Tex epoxy putty for filling holes and divots and it
works good so far. Anybody have any long term experience wi
I used it to fill dimple-like mini-blisters (lots of them) on the bottom of my
Ranger 26 a long time ago. Worked great – no issues underwater for several
years. I’ve been using it ever since. Measuring the two parts if you’re not
using an entire box is a bit of a pain, but I remain a big fan.
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