www.seabags.com
If your sails are large enough they will make you a tote bag for free. We
had a great experience with them
John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia via CnC-List
S
Re-sail in Annapolis will give you a duffel bag.
Joel
On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 7:02 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> www.seabags.com
>
> If your sails are large enough they will make you a tote bag for free. We
> had a great experience with them
>
>
> John a
Mine called for one degree of Rake. Which at the top of the Mast, equated to
around 11 inches off of vertical
Regards,
Bill ColemanC&C 39
Original message
From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List"
Date: 3/25/17 10:08 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Matthew
Hello,
I have a 1979 C&C 34 with the original aluminum fuel tank. I've recently had
some engine shutdown issues that I've traced to my fuel tank. Ideally I would
like to replace the tank with a plastic one. That was recommended by the
surveyor when I purchased the boat. The problem is access. T
Currently I do not have a windlass on the boat. The anchor locker and lid
takes up the entire bow beyond the vberth.
In order to place the vertical rope to chain windlass on the deck requires
placing it above the vberth and running a channel for the rode back into
the locker. Additionally this wou
Brian:
I have a 1981 C&C 34. I replaced the original tank with a plastic tank by
Moeller. The old tank came out the seat hatch although I did cut the fill
pipe a bit. It was approximately 20 gallons. Measured the old one, went on
the Moeller web site and found what was as close to an exact match a
You really want the anchor rode to drop straight down from the windlass. If
not, it will bind, which is no fun. Also be sure to read the manual carefully
before you commit. There may be a minimum drop recommended. My anchor locker
leaves just enough room aft of the hatch to mount the windlass on
Your math is better than mine!
(What was I thinking?)
Steve.
coltrek via CnC-List wrote:
Mine called for one degree of Rake. Which at the top of the Mast, equated to
around 11 inches off of vertical
Regards,
Bill ColemanC&C 39
Original message
From: "Matthew L.
Hi Jacob
Some of us have installed anchor windlasses in the anchor locker, if you like I
can provide details.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2017-03-26 1:20 PM, jacob fuerst via CnC-List wrote:
Currently I do not have a windlass on the boat. The anchor locker and lid takes
up th
Randy and Lee….
The tree stump that C&C designed for the 30-1 is super stiff. Pre bend is
pretty much fiction. I have a 4 to 1 backstay adjuster on my split backstay and
the only thing it does when I haul on it as hard as possible is stiffen the
forestay. Randy, you should go with your plan
I vote for plastic, even if you have to do some cutting. My 1980 boat had
the original aluminum tank which worked great until, at the end of last year
when I noticed a bit of red liquid in the area around the tank. It has now
been recycled somewhere because it had many small pinholes in its bottom.
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2017/03/c-33ii-emergency-tiller-refinements.html
Dave
33ii windstar
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
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Thanks Gary. You might want to just bite the bullet and do the replacement job
I'm in the middle of. If I can do it, you can do it. I'll do a full write-up
somewhere when I'm done. I've taken a ton of pictures. Now signing off to go
epoxy my new GPO-3 supports into Grenadine's bilge, after a lot
All
I'm replacing my hot water heater heater and want to be able to bypass the
heater when winterizing.
I was thinking of putting shut offs on the inlet and outlet with a bypass
below the shut offs with its own valve. In normal operation I would close
the bypass valve. Is there a better way?
Joel
That is how I would do it. I did something similar when I installed my day tank
for the furnace.
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38
Original message From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Date: 3/26/17 14:00 (GMT-08:00) To:
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Couple of these?
https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-Grade-1PYZ9-Three-Valve/dp/B001NPGIZC
Dennis C.
On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 4:00 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> All
>
> I'm replacing my hot water heater heater and want to be able to bypass the
> heater when winter
They make a kit for this. It uses two 3-way valves.
http://m.campingworld.com/shopping/item/quick-turn-by-pass-kit/15717
I built a system for mine before I realized that there was an off the shelf
solution.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea
@ Gary and Randy, I just got Destrier, a 30-1 last year and pulled the mast
over the winter. I am also rebuilding the mast step support. I have found
exactly the same conditions as everyone has reported. As bad as it was, it
lasted 43 years. Destrier was raced for many years but I am not really
Creative idea on the wrench storage. I keep mine attached to the e-tiller
with a couple of Velcro straps.
Touche's e-tiiler is stored in a cockpit locker on a couple of Beckson
Clip-Mate clips. It is very accessible. See it here:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsOExxSmZUR0JXUVU
No
Off the shelf will work. Great job soldering!
Joel
On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 5:39 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> They make a kit for this. It uses two 3-way valves.
> http://m.campingworld.com/shopping/item/quick-turn-by-pass-kit/15717
>
> I built a system for mine
How about "The Boat List" that was a topic a couple weeks or months ago.
Colin
SV Lindsey Layne
Sent from my iPhone
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go
There is a better off the shelf system with two valves (on both ends) - Google
“Camco 35953” (or 35963; they differ only in the length of the bypass hose).
Works like a charm.
Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
vi
Yep, my bad, I thought I had found the 2 valve system. Either will work
but I'm with Marek, the 2 valve is probably better.
The system I built also included a thermal regulating valve (red knob). I
can crank the thermostat WAY up while at dock (and the 160 - 180° water
from the engine while moto
Thanks guys! So glad I asked!
Joel
On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 6:17 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Yep, my bad, I thought I had found the 2 valve system. Either will work
> but I'm with Marek, the 2 valve is probably better.
>
> The system I built also included a the
Has anyone actually tried that RV bypass kit? How much water does it
pass? Are the ports big enough? I know most systems use only a portion of
the coolant but if you're running your entire engine coolant flow through
it, it may not pass enough coolant to cool your engine.
For only a few $$ more
I'm going to use it on the fresh water side.
Joel
On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 6:28 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Has anyone actually tried that RV bypass kit? How much water does it
> pass? Are the ports big enough? I know most systems use only a portion of
> the cool
Got it.
Dennis
On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 5:29 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I'm going to use it on the fresh water side.
>
> Joel
> On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 6:28 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Has anyone actually tried that RV bypa
Thanks Dennis. Have since improved the wrench tethering by cutting off the
open end, drilling for the line. Much nicer, almost slick. Will post pics.
Had contemplated installing clips in that locker location but I am not sure
whether there is adequate coring in the glass to take the scre
I could see where a kit like that could save you a lot of antifreeze.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2017 17:38
To: C&C Li
I love this topic.
Back up a little. If you already have hot
water... why do you need to heat it? :)
' couldn't help that, grinnin' while I hit "send"
Cheers, Russ
At 02:00 PM 26/03/2017, you wrote:
All
I'm replacing my hot water heater heater and
want to be able to bypass the he
Randy:
The drawing for my boat does not show perfectly plumb – that was the point.
The drawing showed a slight rake. It would be easier in a drawing to draw a
mast perpendicular to the side view, but the drawing for the 42 shows a slight
rake. We surmised that C&C must have had a reason
One more point. Kind of obvious, but I will mention it. When you winterise,
make sure that you either drain all water out of the tank or you blow it out. I
can’t drain it into the bilge (the way the bilge is designed on my boat is
stupid), so I have to blow it.
Btw. It saves about 5-6 gal of A
Congrats Charles on your acquisition of Destrier, and welcome to the list.
I offer you the opportunity to learn from my mistakes on the mast step project
and otherwise :)
Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
- Original Message -
From: "Cleverboy via CnC
Thanks Matt. I see your point w.r.t. the Spartite - you've got to get the rig
tuned before fixing everything in place. I'm using a mast boot and the NGA-18
wedges from Rig-Rite ( http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Mast_wedges.php
), so I have more flexibility. But I still have to get the tun
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