Hi, If there are no cracks maybe you can passivate it so rust won't come
back.
SylvainC&C27MkIII
From: Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Cc: Aaron Rouhi
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2016 2:34 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate Replacement
How do you run reef 2 down the boom? I have an empty clutch and sleeve at
the end of the boom.
Lorne Serpa
C&C 30MKII 1988
Friendship, MD
On Jul 9, 2016 7:06 AM, "Andrew Burton via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Even better than a bowline is to use a timber hitch. See this article from
> Cruising World:
>
Boat hook worked for me. Push from one end then pull from the other.
Other people have suggested using a blast of water from a hose.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jul 12, 2016 6:53 AM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List"
wrote:
> How do you run reef 2 down the boom? I have an e
fishing tape? Better yet, if you have access to those - a fishing rod (the
fibreglass ones for fishing wires). Or a tent brace.
Marek Dziedzic
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 08:07
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List
Thanks Chuck -
Nice to meet another LF 35 owner. I have the only one at our club, but there
are two LF 38s and approx 20 other C&Cs - some in the hands of the original
owners. The teak toe rails are not too big a job if they are kept up. I use
Cetol Natural Teak on them.
I take your point ab
James,
I went the Epiphanes varnish route with my toe rails and although it was time
consuming to apply 5 coats to the length of the boat x 2, sanding in between
coats, it is a highlight of the boat and I get plenty of compliments.
When I looked at the stem fitting on Half Magic last night, it
ally look pretty decent. I may try the same approach to the bow
> fitting if I decide to leave it in situ.
>
>
>
> ---
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So I polished the rusty area on my forestay fitting and it seems like a surface
corrosion as suggested. There are some blemishes but nothing like how it looked
before:
http://i.imgur.com/NoW6PtN.jpg
I also performed a dye test. Here is a picture with dye applied:
http://i.imgur.com/RUH6Iir.
The manual bilge pump on my 1978 34-1 isn't working. I believe it's
original.
My thinking is there must be a leak somewhere and I need to find that to
get the suction working. I'm thinking of taking off the hose at the pump
and ensuring there is suction there. Then replace the hose and ensure a
Jeremy,
If it’s a Whale Gusher pump there are two flapper valves in the pump that can
get stuck open if something gets caught in them.
The result is no suction or exhaust.
There could also be a hole in the diaphragm which would cause the same symptoms.
I would remove the pump and open it up
http://www.sailingscuttlebutt.com/2016/07/12/summer-tradition-still-going-strong/?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Scuttlebutt%204623%20-%20July%2013%202016&utm_content=Scuttlebutt%204623%20-%20July%2013%202016+CID_9b7e47dad615547db1dfe51d875d17cd&utm_source=Email%20Newsletter&utm_term=Summer%20Tradi
Go sailing!
Like Sam says.
no indication of cracking, very slight porosity in areas not polished enough
cheers, Russ
At 06:16 PM 12/07/2016, you wrote:
Go sailing!
sam :-)
So I polished the rusty area on my forestay fitting and it seems
like a surface corrosion as suggested. There are som
I had the same problem in my 29-1. I removed the Waler unit and replaced
the flapper valves. Works like a charm now
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento". C&C 29-1
San Franciso Bay
--
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
San Francisco Bay
Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile
_
Like others have said, it's probably the flapper valves. However, it could
be the sealing surfaces have corroded if it's an alloy pump. If that's the
case, you're in it for a new pump. You probably won't know until you take
it apart.
If it's an alloy pump, coat the sealing surfaces with TefGel
I think it is fine. You just need to scrub a little acid on that area to remove
the surface iron
Bill Coleman
Original message
From: Sam Salter via CnC-List
Date: 7/12/16 21:16 (GMT-05:00)
To: Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sam Salter
Subj
It looks better, certainly less menacing than before, but I would work it
to a mirror shine. The crack can be hard to see with the scratch lines but
very easy to see when it is mirror smooth. At least get a swirl pattern or
lines that run perpendicular to the "crack". You're so much closer to a
I would like to know how to tell the difference between this, if it is not a
problem, and the dreaded crevice crack corrosion that we are so constantly
being warned about.
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
- Original Message -
From: Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List
To: cnc-list
What you will see in a die-penatrent of a full blown crack is a solid line,
as obossed to the corrision pitting seen in this case. It will be very obvious.
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 #4just west of Ballard, WA.
-- Original message--From: S Thomas via CnC-List Date: T
My recent trip to Tofino and the west coast of Vancouver Island has
convinced me I want to do more offshore passages, and eventually cross
oceans. I have a fair amount of experience sailing around Puget Sound/San
Juans/etc. and feel like I’d be fairly useful addition to most crews.
If you had very
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