I have a 3 blade Bruntons Autoprop...I can feel it spin with the
transmission in reverse but it does spin when in forward so I have
sailed the last 12 years with the transmission of my Universal M4-30
in forward...no problems yet...I think my circumstance is caused by
the way the autoprop blades w
Josh,
What's the advantage of adding an auxiliary solenoid to the starting circuit?
Dave J
Saltaire
C&C 35Mk3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List"
To: "C&C List"
Cc: "Josh Muckley"
Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 8:20:33 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sta
Gary,
FWIW, I keep a smaller danforth anchor in my inflatable air deck dinghy. I cut
that bar mayself across the head of the anchor and added clear reinforced hose
over the bar ends. The hose extends past the ends to prevent the bar from
holing the dinghy. I believe the bar simply helps to orie
Gary, You probably already know this but the Danforth has some pretty serious
limitations. I think you would be OK holding your dinghy with a 20 pounder, if
it's not windy!
Sand bottom with no weeds, chain and a long rode. I learned the hard way and I
couldn't sleep on the hook until I bought a
It reduces the arcing in the switch by reducing the amperage for a small
solenoid compared to the starter. Adds life to the switch. You can have
larger gauge wire switched at the solenoid to the starter and modest size
to the switch.
Ed
Prime Interest
Toronto, Ontario
On Jun 11, 2016 8:37 AM, "D
Len:
A little surprised by the comment. What limitations are you referring to?
Danforth may not be the sexiest anchor but they are versatile. Biggest
obstacle to them is grass I've found.
John
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 11, 2016, at 1:12 PM, Mitchell's via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Gary, Yo
Francois
I redid all of the overhead fluorescents in Alera with a pair of 12" Lunasea
light bars in each location. I just took out the old fixture and attached the
light bar to the existing wiring and used a good two sided tape to mount them.
Here's the link to the lights and the cross over c
Danforths are hampered by any growth on the bottom since it interferes with
the anchor's initial set. They are also hampered by shells and rocks that
can get jammed in the flukes and prevent a reset in the event of wind or
tide shift.
Those are real Danforths. Fake Danforths are generally pretty us
On the trip from Louisiana to Pensacola few weeks ago I was seeing 180-200F at
cruise rpm. Normal is 160F.
Water out back looked normal. Usually it's a loose or worn belt. If I can turn
the pump pulley by hand then it's the problem. This, in fact was the case. The
pulley turned and I tighten
Sorry nob
On Friday, June 10, 2016, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List
wrote:
> Joel –
>
> Any updates on this?
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On
> Behalf Of *Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, May 20, 2016 6:50 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Cc
Well I returned the cut down anchor back and found another one at a consignment
store in Newport. This was a HD 20 Danforth with the stickers still on it never
been used $100. I do not have a locker we hang it from the bow pulpit. I do not
mind that the stock is full size. We keep the bottom co
Listers,
My roller furling line got ultra-tangled in the drum and I ended up having to
drop the headsail and cut it all out.
I bought some new line and am going to install tomorrow, weather permitting.
So here's the question. How many feet of line should I have wrapped around the
drum before
Edd..
My simple thinking is that you have to roll up at least the length of the
foot of the 150. So why not measure the sail and then mark the line and
wind that much onto the drum. When you put the sail back on, puling on the
line should wind it up correctly
I probably would add a foot
Mine is nearly a 1:1 ratio and I usually keep a minimum of 3 or 4 wraps on
the drum (~2ft). Then the add the length of the distance from the drum to
the desired termination (~35ft). Then add the length of the foot. A 150%
will be about 24 ft. So 65ft should be sufficient. Remember that you hav
Make sure the line leads out of the drum 90 degrees to the forestay. If yours
doesn't move the first block up or down until it does.
Second, it's a lot easier to wrap the sheets around the furled sail to get the
correct number of wraps.
Buy extra line.
Dennis C.
Sent from my iPhone
> On J
Re: Windex light. I bought the Edison style LED from marinebeam after asking if
it would fit. I was concerned it was too tall for the dome on the Davis Windex
light fixture. I emailed them and they said it should work.
When it arrived it was indeed too tall. I emailed marinebeam. They sent me a
Josh,
Fntastic! Thanks. I bought 80-feet of line and will wrap 27-28 feet or so
around the drum. That should do it.
You da man.
All the best,
Edd
---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
If able, measure the old line you cut off to get a rough idea of how much
line to buy. Total up the pieces. Then raise the sail with no new line
around the drum. Roll up the sail by hand again with no line attached to
the drum. Now attach the new line to the drum with the sail fully furled.
Add 2 r
Starting to gain interest in this new group for mejust brought a c&c 34/36r
up to southeast Alaska.
We do more anchoring up her on ace segments. Anybody' modify and build back in
an anchor locker?
Sent from my iPad
James Bibb
NorthWind Architects LLC
126 Seward St. Street
Juneau, Alaska
Sam
What's the name of your 35-3? I race my 29-1 out of Tiburon YC and I
always pay attention to C&C's. I do the big races, the Great Vallejo Race,
the YRA 2nd half opener and the Season closer as well as the Jazz Cup so
encounters with container ships and tankers are common.
I went to a present
20 matches
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