Ryan.
Your results look great. How many hours would you guess you put into the paint
job?
Dave J
Saltaire
CC35 MK3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Sent: Thu, 26 May 2016 15:46:02 - (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List My Ex
Graham.
If you could post photos of your rudder rebuild I'd appreciate that. I'm
guessing it's similar to the 37 but would like to be sure.
Thanks,
Dave J
Saltaire
CC35 MK3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Collins
Sen
I have a leak which appears to be coming from below the stuffing box from the
shaft tube itself. Has anyone ever experienced this. Can the tube be repaired
or does it have to be replaced. It appears that someone mounted a zinc on the
tube and the tube wore through there. The engine is a
Robin,
I have the original prop from my 33-II, as well as a Campbell sailor for it. We
currently have a Flex-o-fold on her we put on when we repowered. If I get a
chance I’ll dig out the other 2 and see what they are.
Paul Fountain
Perception II
1985 C&C 33-II k/cb
Port Credit Yacht Club
From:
I made a video that walks through the starting circuit on my yanmar. Its
pretty generic, maybe it will help.
https://youtu.be/Mp2cGDa1VOU
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 5, 2016 11:13 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Stopped by th
My 29-2 has a complete Harken traveller / main sheet system. I am not sure if
it is original or retrofitted by a PO.There is a wooden spacer under the low
profile traveller track. Traveller controls are end of track and work well from
the wheel when single handing. The starboard traveller
Mark,
not that I suggest that this might be the case, but these taught me not to
assume anything...
I had two experiences of “nothing happening” with the engine on this boat.
The first one was my first try after I bought it and winterised it. The first
start in the spring, I press the start bu
Robin
If you are referring to the Campbell sailor prop their specs differ from a more
traditional prop. I have a Campbell prop. Spoke to the owner very
knowledgable.
Mike
C&C 37
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 5, 2016, at 11:28 PM, Robin Drew via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Thanks. I just bought th
Rick,
If you have a autopilot and a buddy it is easier, with a lot less traffic and
current concerns, to take her outside around Montauk Point...
Hope to see you there!
David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
> Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2016 06:50:02 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject:
Also ground cable to engine/transmission case can cause it. Or if yanmar the
fuse on the engine can become corrode. Mine developed a break in the fuse
holder and needed replacing
Sent from my Samsung device
Original message
From: Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List
Date: 2
Hoist it to the masthead and use a longish tack line. Try to keep the luff
fairly tight so the sail doesn't drift off to leeward and become an air
brake when you're reaching.
To drop the sail, the easiest way is to turn downwind and then ease the
tack line and sheet it in tight behind the main. Th
Suggestions needed:
I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been "sitting" for a
number of years. I've painstakingly gone through systems to get everything
functional and replaced items that needed updates.
So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a
go
Check your grounds. Had what I thought was a dead tach and it was a
corroded ground connection where the main harness from the engine control
panel grounded via a ring terminal on a stud to the engine.
This should be a maintenance item...
Dave
> -
Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit
the holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the
plate open.
I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from
the tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through th
Chuck,
Had the same problem, but I was able to find the hose/deck fitting in the
hanging locker, disconnect the hose and replace the deck fitting. I tried
drilling, beating, cursing, but did not try a torch. Good luck!
Joel
On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-li
Thank you Joel,
My deck fitting is on the opposite side of the boat from the hanging locker.
On the main salon side, it is blocked off by a bulkhead that supports the
chainplates and MAY be accessible behind the cabinetry in the head. I haven’t
started ripping into the interior to explore tha
David,
I plotted an all outside trip out as well. Down the Chesapeake and up
outside LI from Norfolk. Added up to just over 500 miles iirc. If I
decide to make the trip, I'll keep an outside route as a contingency if the
weather holds. I have an autopilot but I haven't seen friends go on sale o
Chuck:
You can try a homemade solution of 50%-50% power steering fluid and
acetone..apply with an eye dropper or dab carefully with a
Q-tip..careful not to get the solution on the deck as the acetone
will be destructive.
I have successfully used this solution in the home, on my car a
Rick, I've found the C & D canal takes off a lot of miles over the Norfolk
route. I know the Delaware can be a pain, but have you checked that out?
> On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:18 AM, rick bushie via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> David,
>
> I plotted an all outside trip out as well. Down the Chesapeake
If it's that corroded I would just pull it and replace it (or work on
reconditioning it once you have it out).
Pulling the deck fills was a recommended survey item on my boat anyway
because they tend to leak after 30+ years. They're in cored sections of the
deck, so leaking deck fills isn't good.
Tim,
Oh yeah! I plan on using the C&D. I taught myself how to sail on the
Delaware in a C-22. First boat I'd ever owned or operated. It's 92 miles
to Cape May versus over 250 miles for around Cape Charles. I was just
looking for entertainment purposes. So 92 miles to Cape May and 210 miles
to
On my Landfall 38, most of the fill (and the pump out) connections were simply
screwed into the outer skin and butyl tape was used between the fitting and the
deck. The trouble with just removing the fitting is that the hose is probably
still attached (this is another challenging problem--getti
If I recall my days of sailing between Annapolis/Rock Hall and the Jersey shore
correctly, Annapolis to the C&D canal is a longish 12 hours. Lay up in the
basin on the south side of the C&D in Chesapeake City. Catch the eastbound
current to get blown out into the Delaware south of Wilmington and
Also, a good spanner wrench (and a hammer) may do the trick...
Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Chuck, I'v
I second or third the ground! Had that problem for a few years. Engine was dead on the start button, until 3rd or 4th press and then would fire up suddenly. (2GM20F)Bad ground to the trans. case. Cleaned it up and
It's just under 65 miles from Chesapeake City to Cape May. Hitting the
current right is critical if I want to get there in under 12 hours. I've
found that a confluence of favorable wind and current is as common as
sightings of the Jersey Devil. If worse comes to worse, I can duck into
Cohansey C
I have a 13 X 9 on my 27MKIII which works well, so that sounds about right.
Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON
- Original Message -
From: Robin Drew via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robin Drew
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2016 22:28
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller
Than
Rick,
I've run Cape May to C&D several times and found I could stay in the tide all
the way up. I time it to leave Cape May after low tide, so it is flooding in as
get to the shipping channel. I run just outside it on the Jersey side and hit
the C&D at slack after High tide. I run the C&D as th
Hi all,
I apologize for not stripping my previous response to Rick.
Enjoyed the video of past rendezvous and saw myself at the first one at Mystic
Seaport. I will not be bringing the boat but will try and drive up to share
beers w you guys. Mystic is a favorite place of mine.
Chuck
Resolut
FWIW:
Perhaps one more try with PB Blaster?
Unscrew fitting and twist the fitting off of the hose?
Tap into the cap holes and screw in some substantial bolts...use a large lever
to persuade it off?
Worse case unscrew the fitting, cut hose where you can see it and pull the
whole dang thing out
Hey Dave,
Thanks! I'm ball parking, but I'd say this is approximately how long each
portion took.
1.5 hrs to tape off the boat
4 hrs to sand initially with 150 grit
2 hrs to prime
(New day)
2 hrs to sand primer
1.5 hrs to prime
(New day)
2 hrs to sand primer again
2 hrs for first finish c
You mean to say that someone mounted a zinc on the propeller shaft, and it
rubbed against the fibreglass until it wore through?
Seems hard to believe that anyone would put up with the noise that would make
long enough for it to wear through.
That said, fibreglass can be repaired, but I think th
WD40?
> On Jun 6, 2016, at 1:43 PM, David via CnC-List wrote:
>
> FWIW:
>
> Perhaps one more try with PB Blaster?
>
> Unscrew fitting and twist the fitting off of the hose?
>
> Tap into the cap holes and screw in some substantial bolts...use a large
> lever to persuade it off?
>
> Worse cas
Sea Foam Deep Creep...good stuff!
Harry
Sent from my iPhone 7 beta
> On Jun 6, 2016, at 13:59, John Pennie via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> WD40?
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us
At the boat and would like to avoid taking apart the panel to find out...
Anyone know the trip ratings of the stockvhf and instrument breakers? Tx!
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
You want the largest diameter prop that still gives you a couple of inches
clearance. Then, while under way while in gear, run the engine at full
throttle. If you can't reach maximum RPM, you're over pitched. If you can
rev up substantially higher than max RPM, you're under pitched.
Alan Bergen
Robin
I just happen to have a picture of my folding prop on my 33-2, it's 16D X 10P,
Eliptec. engine is yanmar 2gm20f. It will rev to about 3300 rpm and pushes the
boat at better than 6 knots unless I'm heading upriver, under the bridge where
the current is 6-7 knots against us. Then we see abou
Robin,
I do remember the original fixed blades prop of my 33 mk II with original
Yanmar 2gmf was 16", will have to check for the pitch but I think it is 12. I
will be back home in two days to verify that.
I ordered a Flexofold 3 blades and they recommended 15" /9". The blade area is
larger and
Recommended size also depends in part on which gearing was supplied with your
engine.
This link is to a Yanmar chart of recommended propeller sizes.
http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/yanmar/shopping/parts_references/prop.php
- Original Message -
From: S Thomas via CnC-List
To: cn
As a last resort, drill a hole through the center large
enough to take a hacksaw or jigsaw blade. Cut out to
the edge including into the threads at a location that
is just a bit counterclockwise from one of the original
holes. Use a punch at a low angle and hammer.
At some point I will replace my
Love the ones that take winch handles - but I haven't dropped a handle in
the drink yet.
Joel
On Monday, June 6, 2016, Michael Brown via CnC-List
wrote:
> As a last resort, drill a hole through the center large
> enough to take a hacksaw or jigsaw blade. Cut out to
> the edge including into the
At some point you may apply so much torque that you shear off the existing
screws holding the fitting to the deck. Beware!
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent
I have the units that take a winch handle and like them. They are made of
aluminum and have O-rings. I put a light coating of petroleum jelly on the
threads and O-rings to prevent seizing.
Has anyone found a source for spare caps? I keep a 1-1/2” PVC pipe plug as an
emergency spare.
Rega
Anyone else who owns a C&C 29 mark II have problems where water pools on
the aft part of the gunwales just inside the toe rail? I noticed the water
doesn't run out and I'm curious if it's unique to my boat or others have
had the same problem. No intrusion has occurred as far as I can tell.
Also up
I got this tip on the list: hang a scrap piece of line through the toe rail
where the water pools. The line will act like a syphon and drain the
pooling water overboard. Good way to prevent black streaks too.
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 6:47 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List
I have some C&C charts on my iPad that show the original prop for several of
the models, original engine models, and prop sizes. 16 X 10 is the ONLY size
listed for the 33-2 in either fixed or folding. When I figure out how to load
it I will post here. It may have come from the CnC photo album,
A variation on the line/toe rail is that I use pieces of micro fiber dish
clothes. I get mine at trader joes and use them on rail when they get too
grungy for dishes. I have the same pooling issue on our 30-2. They wick
very well.
KD
On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 4:38 PM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc
I just took a Dremel and created a low spot in the Toe rail so the water
drained
Joel
On Monday, June 6, 2016, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
wrote:
> A variation on the line/toe rail is that I use pieces of micro fiber dish
> clothes. I get mine at trader joes and use them on rail when they get t
http://www.candc33mkii.com/maintenance-tips/
Here is a link to the tables for the 33 MKII, there's lots of info here. I
believe they are copied from the original owners manual.
Brad
"Pulse" C&C 33 MKII
Lake Huron
[X][X]
I'd rather be sailing
___
This l
Gene,
I think most of us have areas on deck where water pools. Some people put a
small piece of sponge in the toe rail. Others use a small piece of cotton rope
to wick the water away. Both seem to work.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
Fr
The Garhauer fits the recess in the bridgedeck well. The modification to the
traveller car was to countersink screws rather than flush mount. That plus
adding 1/4 spacer under track. They also predrilled track holes per my spec.
Can send pictures if interested. Additional charge for modificati
Hi Bradley, I took a quick look on the cncphotoalbum website and didn't see
those charts under the technical info pages. If you happen to have the
propeller specs for a C&C 30 Mark I with an Atomic-4 engine, I would be
interested to see those. Right now I've got a fixed 2-blade. For next year I'
Many thanks for your help.
Robin
Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060
> On Jun 6, 2016, at 5:01 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> You want the largest diameter prop that still gives you a couple of inches
> clearance. Then, while under way while in gear, run the engine at full
> thrott
Many thanks. Very useful chart. I'll check my transmission gears ratio to be
sure.
Robin
Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060
> On Jun 6, 2016, at 6:10 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Recommended size also depends in part on which gearing was supplied with your
> engine.
> This link is t
Stu, Please stop messages for the reminder of June while I am off sailing.
Thanks
Fred Hazzard
C&C 44
S/V Fury
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. Al
Thanks this is great to have. Perfect.
Robin
Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060
> On Jun 6, 2016, at 8:00 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> http://www.candc33mkii.com/maintenance-tips/
> Here is a link to the tables for the 33 MKII, there's lots of info here. I
> believe they are c
Thanks.
Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060
> On Jun 6, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I have some C&C charts on my iPad that show the original prop for several of
> the models, original engine models, and prop sizes. 16 X 10 is the ONLY size
> listed for the 33-2
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