Re: Stus-List Prop Walk C&C 29-2

Sounds reasonable. To add on, would you agree that the spinning column of water which gets split by the rudder when going forward is then responsible for the phenomenon called prop-wash? I feel some pretty substantial wash and a pretty strong pull to port when full throttle but a reasonable and b

Stus-List C&C 29-2 Prop walk

Interesting theories / comments on the causes of prop walk. You should note that on the 29-2 the prop is offset from the center line of the hull and it is located to the port side of the small skeg leading into the rudder. The combined downward angle of the prop shaft PLUS the angle towards the p

Re: Stus-List Rusted cotter ring remnants in anchor roller retaining pin

Pete, For what it’s worth, Citric Acid will eat the rust(iron) and not effect the stainless. I am not sure how you would use that info. Maybe soak the area intermittently with a 10% citric solution. I don’t think it will harm your fiberglass. The powdered drink “Tang” is high in Citric aci

Re: Stus-List C&C 29-2 Prop walk

I thought offset to port would help the situation. No? Gary ~~~_/)~~ On Sat, May 16, 2015 at 10:19 AM, Bob Hickson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Interesting theories / comments on the causes of prop walk. > > You should note that on the 29-2 the prop is offset from the

Stus-List Keel Bolt problem 35-3

Hello Listers, I was tightening my keel bolts on my 35-3 before launch when I heard a crack. Fortunately not the bolt, but the wedge shape spacer under the washers and nut cracked. This is the piece that levels the surface the washers and nut sit on to keep it perpendicular to the keel bolt.

Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt problem 35-3

Touche's are stainless. Dennis C. On Sat, May 16, 2015 at 12:26 PM, scott gary via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hello Listers, > > I was tightening my keel bolts on my 35-3 before launch when I heard a > crack. Fortunately not the bolt, but the wedge shape spacer under > the was

Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt problem 35-3

Stainless steel and aluminum don't mix. You'll get severe galvanic corrosion. All hardware should be stainless steel. A keel is a bad thing to lose! Gary ~~~_/)~~ On Sat, May 16, 2015 at 1:26 PM, scott gary via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hello Listers, > > I was ti

Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt problem 35-3

Yes, I agree, I was planning on replacing with stainless, it just doesn't seem like the old ones are stainless as they pretty much crumbled when I removed them while the stainless bolts, nuts and washers are nearly perfect condition. Scott Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 14:09:50 -0400 To: cnc-list@cn

Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt problem 35-3

Scott, The originals are aluminum. For what reason, I can't imagine. Low cost and easy to machine. When we R&R'd the keel, the yard made new ones from stainless. It's the only way to go. Jake Jake Brodersen "Midnight Mistress" C&C 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: CnC-List [ma

Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt problem 35-3

I made new ones from G10 fiberglass. see G10 handles compression loads very well. It has held up for 7 years, and I don't see a problem. If yours are wedged shaped, machining the material to fit can be a challenge. Also, if your 'spacer

Re: Stus-List Rusted cotter ring remnants in anchor roller retaining pin

Hi Pete, I expect it is spring steel if you're dealing with a (split) ring. So it's difficult to drill. The simplest method is to dress it flush with the pin surface as best you can, file or grinder, and drill a new hole ~90 degrees from the old. A little away from the old path if you have

Re: Stus-List C&C 29-2 Prop walk

I think that there are plenty of variables that will influence the amount of prop walk and wash including the design of the propellor, hull design, location of the prop, aperture or not, hull-to-prop-tip distance, shaft angle, both vertical and horizontal, rudder design, prop rpm/speed, hull spe