Tom,
I use about 24” of extensions to reach the bottom of my bilge. I brace a
couple thicknesses of 2x4 material between the extension and the side of the
bilge, just below the head of the wrench. Without support, you may bend your
extensions and not apply the proper torque. Having a sec
I have an older, three blade, CD feathering prop on my 29-2.
The boat will motor at 6 to 6.5 knots at 2800 RPM under most conditions.
I usually run at 2600 RPM with a boat speed of ~ 6 knots.
Last summer when trying to re-enter Frenchmans Bay with a headwind of 25 to
35 knots and a moderate cho
After freezing my tail off last season on some overnight races, I finally
broke down and am in the process of installing a heater on the boat.
With the reverse angle on the transom, I understand there can be issues
installing the straight through transom fitting that came with the kit. I
foun
Not off hand, but for what it is worth, I bought one a few years back from a
guy in Turkey.
I found a few dealers both in the UK and in the USA at the time, but the
Turkish dealer was cheaper and there were no problems with shipping or quality.
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
-
Give Sure Marine in Seattle (close to the Ballard Locks and Shilshole Bay) a
call or contact through their web site.
We used Sure Marine when installing Calypso's Webasto heating system back in
1999 and for parts and service since then. Great service and support for all
things heating, cooki
Pete:
My Wabasto exhausts thru the side just below the rail close to the transom.
The pipe leading to it has a loop to prevent water from entering incase
the rail should be submerged.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portlandl, Or
On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 10:19 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
cnc-
Check out the picture at this link and consider going out the bottom not
the transom.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yTDJjOGJKa2NncFk/edit?usp=docslist_api
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 4, 2015 1:20 PM, "Pete Shelquist via CnC-List"
wrote:
> After freez
Here's a video with a better shot of my discharge thru-hulls and transom.
They all have internal high point loops and discharge above the normal
water line. You can see the water line on the rudder and bottom paint.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydVl2MnpxVXpHalk/edit?usp=docslist_api
Jake,
Thanks, that should help keep it in line. I need the longer extensions because
the benches are too close to each other, i.e., I can't get even 1/6 of a turn
so there is not enough room to reposition the socket for the next sixth of a
turn. I need to get the wrench higher than the benches
Consider using a torque multiplier. A "normal" amount of torque can be
used without bending or over torquing extensions. It will also allow using
a smaller, shorter torque wrench which give a better swing radius. Using
the one in the link below, I would place it in the bildge and "frame" it in
p
Torquing the keel nuts on a C&C 29-2 is a one person job if you use a shorter
extension than the one you describe. I assume you have the standard 5'-3" draft
model which has a larger and deeper bilge than the 4'-0" shoal draft version.
The extension doesn't have to be so long as to raise the tor
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