I will be in Rockaway Beach towards the end of July, but I will be looking
FOR Crab Pots! 8^ )
Bill Coleman
C&C 39
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin
Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 12:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-Lis
Hi Everybody,
My starter is beginning to misbehave a bit. Looking for help diagnosing
issue.
*Symptom: *Occasionally (with more frequency now) I will press the starter
button on my Yanmar 2GM20 and nothing happens. No, turning over, etc. Just
crickets. Then I take my finger off and try it aga
Starter relay, but more probably the wiring between there and the starter
button. There was a fairly recent thread on this suggesting checking
condition / re-wiring. It's on my list, but not as high up as sailing...
Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT
On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 11:40 AM, Kevin Dris
Kevin,
Likely to be corroded wiring between the battery, button and solenoid or
corrosion on the cable to the starter itself. Get a remote starter switch
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-remote-starter-switch-35448.html to
bypass the button and isolate the problem.
Joel
On Fri, Jun 27, 201
Ah, the infamous Yanmar click.
Basically, the Yanmar wiring harness is substandard. Originally, I replaced a
crappy fuse in the harness and the click didn’t happen so much. I eventually
bypassed the harness and replaced it with larger, tinned wire. Problem solved.
Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Sha
Push starter switches are subject to carbon build up. Jump the contacts on
the back of the switch. If the starter engages, replace the switch.
If that doesn't work, look to the wiring as others have suggested.
Dennis C.
On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 10:40 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@
Kevin,
This exact thing happened on the Enterprise-A, a 1978 C&C 34, and the
problem got worse and worse as days went on. It was the solenoid at the
starter. Quick, relatively inexpensive, fix.
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
Kevin:
The first thing to try is to clean the battery post and terminals with a
wire brush. Auto parts stores have an inexpensive brush that works on the
post and terminals. If there is no improvement, your push button switch may
be building up corrosion across the switch such that mere operation
I didn't see anybody else suggest this but you can short the high current
relay contacts that provide power to the starter. If the starter turns
over without problem then it is almost certainly not the starter or power
to it. Now you can focus on the starter button, button wiring and relay.
Good
Whenever I race up the coast, we always have to watch for crab pots. I seem to
recall that there was a line of pots around 200' water depth, but they could be
almost anywhere. You can motor up the coast, within a mile of shore. Stay
outside of Destruction Island, Umatilla Reef and Cape Flattery
Thanks everybody!
Kevin Driscoll
Portland, Oregon
503 // 875 // 3493
On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 9:39 AM, Josh Muckley wrote:
> I didn't see anybody else suggest this but you can short the high current
> relay contacts that provide power to the starter. If the starter turns
> over without
Great wind for a Wednesday evening club race, great start, and then got
smoked by three other boats one of which was another C&C 35 MK3. I had just
had the bottom cleaned, had plenty of boat speed but I just couldn't point
as high as the others.
Any suggestions on where I should start to look
On Friday, June 27, 2014, David Jacobs via CnC-List
wrote:
> Great wind for a Wednesday evening club race, great start, and then got
> smoked by three other boats one of which was another C&C 35 MK3. I had just
> had the bottom cleaned, had plenty of boat speed but I just couldn’t point
> as high
Sorry about the blank reply. What condition are your sails in? Where was
the traveler position? How close to the spreaders was the jib trimmed?
Joel
On Friday, June 27, 2014, David Jacobs via CnC-List
wrote:
> Great wind for a Wednesday evening club race, great start, and then got
> smoked by th
Tell us more.
Deep keel or centerboard?
1. Sails? Old? Bagged out?
2. Rake? Need to hear from other 35-3 owners.
3. Trim? How tight? How far off speaders?
4. Mast bend? How much?
5. Genoa lead? Were the tell tales breaking evenly up and down the genoa?
6. Angle vs course. Was your angle t
Also try Klacko Spars in Oakville, ON. Klacko's made a lot of the old C&C
masts and have access to a lot of the old extrusions. They have a website,
so can be contacted through that.
On 2014-06-26 1:04 PM, "Raymond Macklin via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Who was the Manufacturer of the 1985 - C&C 33-2 Mas
Dennis,
In response to your questions,
· The boat is a 6’ keel
· Brand new Thurston (albeit cruising but really nicely shaped) sails
(main and 135%)
· Rake is something I need some education about. The mast was pulled
and I added all new rod rigging and a Harken
Also try Dwyer Aluminum mast co
https://www.dwyermast.com/
Jerry
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 27, 2014, at 6:06 PM, Robert Mazza via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Also try Klacko Spars in Oakville, ON. Klacko's made a lot of the old C&C
> masts and have access to a lot of the old extrusions. They ha
With that much wind you are on the cusp of reefing the main. Do you add
main halyard tension? Cunningham? Outhaul? Ease the mainsheet ( not the
traveler) to let the top of the main twist off. Move the jib car aft a
couple inches. If you are heeling more than 20 degrees you will be slow.
Joel
Can you 35-3 owners help him with the rake? I know that my 35-1 wants a
minimum of 10-12" aft of the gooseneck with a plumb line from the masthead.
Basically, as much as you can stand without excessive weather helm.
Dennis C.
On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 5:49 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-lis
Maybe you need more weight on the rail or a new main? Was your jib
baggy or flat? Too many folks in the cockpit? Get the main trimmer
off the other boat to sail with you for a practice sail.
'
2 cents, Lee
Great wind for a Wednesday evening club race, great start, and then
got smoked by thr
If the others passed you, maybe by rolling over the top to weather then
maybe you spent some time sailing in their dirty air.you won't point as well
in that stuff so you have to tack away or suffer.sounds like you and your
crew have a good bit of experience, at least enough to figure out why the
bo
At the dock, check mast position to be sure it's not leaning to one side. Use a
halyard to measure from the top of the mast to the rail on each side. Then
adjust your lowers and mid shrouds to remove any sideways bend. Don't over
tighten the turnbuckles. When sailing to windward, adjust the turn
Hi Dave
All the usual issues such as mast tune, halyard tension, babystay tension,
backstay tension, genoa car position, cunningham, etc, etc, etc will apply.
Another factor is the 135 may not be cut to enable pointing as well as a 155???
I find a light-medium 155 works well up to 18 appare
My Coastal Navigator DDS 200 depth gauge which is no longer in business seems
to have retired itself. I'm thinking the instrument itself has gone bad, not
the transducer. We just had the boat out of the water in April for fresh
bottom paint, so I really don't want to pull her out again to repl
I had a Lowrance fishfinder that went awol, put in a Northstar plotter
and just cut the plug off the old transducer and figured out the wiring
to the plotter. Worked fine, most seem to be made by Airmar and are
generally compatible, you can usually find the pin-outs online.
Cheers,
Paul
Orang
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