Marek,
I have a Johnson Ultima solid state switch. I did not have room for a
float switch. I don't know anything about the Water Witch.
Joel
Sent from my iPad
On Mar 31, 2013, at 10:06 PM, Marek Dziedzic wrote:
bilge pump switch
Hi,
I think there was long discussion on that a while back…
Thanks for all the great feedback everyone. Rolly Tasker has given me the
best price by a wide margin. A new Genny shipped to me for $1500, their
'coastal cruising' line.
Question to you all, 5 oz or 6.3 oz dacron?
Dacron UV strip or Sunbrella?
I am leaning towards the 6.3 oz and the sunbrella bu
I think Mine is a Water Witch, altho I wouldn't bet the farm without looking
through old receipts. I like it a lot. Never had a mechanical one, so I
cannot comment on the differences. What is says is true, it won't pump oil,
so keep an absorbent pad under your engine in case something bad happens
Here in Louisiana the genoa stayed on nearly year round. I usually got about 4
years on the Dacron UV strip. Finally got tired of the expense and trouble of
replacing it and went with Sunbrella.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
>
> From: Stevan Pla
I'd ask what the max wind velocity is for each weight sail. 5 oz sounds
light to me for a general purpose sail. I suspect its good to somewhere
around 12-15 knots. Once you know that you can make the
performance/durability trade-off judgment call.
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Mon, Apr 1, 2013 at 8:
Steve, For whatever it is worth, I ended up with 135% Quantum 7.62oz and
Sunbrella for the UV protection. It cost me just over $2400 after a 15% boat
show discount. The Guy at Thurston had said "if you wash the bottom every time
you go sailing, you'd notice the difference between the Dacron and
Here is what I got from Rolly Tasker; 135% Roller Furling Genoa - 7.3oz dacron,
foam on luff, Pacific Blue Sunbrella UV protection, luff tape to suit existing
furling system - $1,675 Just for informational purposes...
-- Original Message --
From: Stevan Plavsa
To: cnc-list@cnc-l
The 27V really only sails well to weather when the mast has 14 to 16" of rake.
After years and years of tension to provide the rake it wouldn't surprise me if
the mast has developed a bit of permanent dog leg. Especially if the baby stay
has been over used.
It's a beefy mast but fairly flexibl
If the sail is a 150 go with 5 oz. If it's a 130 go with 6.3 oz. The 130
should be good to 20 apparent and furled to 110 if you need to. Go with
Dacron white UV strip, you won't notice it's there and it will last for
about 6 years, that's$50 a year because a replacement strip would be about
$300
Steve,
I see you sail on Lake Ontario. The cloth weight may be driven by what boat
model you have?
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
- Original Message -
From: "Joel Aronson"
To: "Dennis C." , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2013 9:10:21 AM
Subject: Re:
http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=BUOQ_yPW_0s
Cheers,
Peter
S/V Tangerine
C&C 35 MK II
Lion's Head, Ontario
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4/1/2013 2:38:45 PM
4/1/2013 2:38:45 PM
_
Great info.
Helps to post the size of your boat when comparing sails, so please include
boat model and where you sail also?
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
- Original Message -
From: djhaug...@juno.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2013 9:16:37 AM
Lolita1973 viking 33Westport Point, MA
-- Original Message --
From: Chuck S
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail Quote - am I delusional?
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2013 13:45:07 + (UTC)
Great info.
Helps to post the size of your boat when comparing sails, so please i
--
*Chuck Saur*
Director,
Michigan Transition Outcomes Project (MI-TOP)
Michigan Department of Education,
Office of Special Education
cs...@cenmi.org
(517)490-5926 cell preferred
(517)908-3919 office
"Don't seek the truth...quit listening to your own opinions." Zen
__
Good morning all. I have the original manual for my new-to-me 35-3, and
they do not specify the size of the keelbolt or nut. Only thing listed is
"other size" and three possible dimensions for the keel bolts. (Same table
as listed at the CnC photoalbum)
I would measure these guys, but the boat i
Hi Guys, I finally got down to the boat on Saturday. There is some water in
the bilge and has probably been there a while. However, I did notice some
seepage stains at the front of the keel. Was not a lot and was not wet. Just
a small stain about 1/4" wide and maybe 8" - 10" long. I had the
Are the stains at the stub / lead keel joint? I had a seeping crack at the
turn of the bilge (well above the actual joint) that turned into a fairly
substantial fix involving core replacement, keel stub tabbing etc this year.
Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT
On Mon, Apr 1, 2013 at 10:16 AM, djha
Yes, at the joint... Fortunately, Lolita does not have a cored hull. I'm more
thinking about keel bolts DannyLolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, MA
-- Original Message --
From: Tim Goodyear
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel joint seepage
Date: Mon, 1 Apr
Danny
It would be good to have no seeping but I don’t think you need to worry about
the keel bolts corroding…as an easy fix as opposed to rebedding the keel you
could try grinding the joint out a bit from the outside…maybe half inch or so
deep and quarter inch wide with an angle grinder…aft
You will need a 1 1/2” deep socket. I used a 39mm. It is a common axle socket
on newer cars. If you know a mechanic , he will probably have one. Take a
couple of extensions with you.
Mike
Ragtime C&C35 MkIII
From: Chuck Saur
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2013 10:10 AM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
S
>> ... I had a seeping crack at the turn of the bilge (well above the actual
>> joint) that turned into a fairly substantial fix involving core replacement,
>> keel stub tabbing etc. this year.<<
Calypso was laid up in 1969 at Bruckmann's and raced very hard (SORC, Montego
Bay, Onion Patch, Ber
Ah, and you kept it for 11 years just in case? A true boat guy...
Wal
allen wrote:
It's in the same shape it was when removed from Septima 11 years ago. Septima's
engine banjo fitting failed,
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This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
htt
The engine control panel on Ox has a push-button starter switch. It's like
an honor system. If someone wants to steal Ox they just have to cast off
the lines and sail away.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
On Fri, Mar 15, 2013 at 3:46 PM, Gary Nylander wrote:
> **
> I replaced the Yanmar ignition switch o
Marek,
I have the standard Rule mercury-type switch. It is reliable, but does
require occasional cleaning. Bilge gunk builds up and will sometimes
prevent it from turning on. It might happen once a season. Guess I should
clean the bilge more often.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-
My bottom paint and accessories arrived today from Defender. All good, all
together. Very cool
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com
It's like they say... in a few years I'll have all the parts to build a
second boat - but the sails will be bagged and torn, the sheets frayed,
the electronics fried, and the hatches leaky...
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2013-04-01 9:02 PM, Wally Bryant wrote:
Ah, and you kep
UPS lost one of my Defender packages. Now I have the original and
replacement package wth 60 feet of 5/16 Dyneema. Wondering if they'll let
me keep both.
Joel
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 1, 2013, at 9:08 PM, Chuck S wrote:
My bottom paint and accessories arrived today from Defender. All good, a
Chuck,
The bolts are 1 with 1 ½ nuts. I use a long breaker bar, along with a
piece of pipe to check the keel bolts. You will need at least 18 of
extension to get to the keel bolts in the bottom of the bilge. The others
are all easy
except the one under the mast! I will be pulling my rig
Danny,
This sounds like a very minor problem (at first blush).
I would check the keel bolt torque and go sailing. It certainly doesn't
sound serious enough to drop the keel and rebed it yet. Been there, done
that!
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III
Midnight Mistress
Hampton VA
Thanks, Jake! Mast is pulled, and keelbolts are all accessible...so
a'torquing we will go. Now...changing channels a bit...do you have an
issue with the buildup of water and gunk beneath the aft shower bulkhead,
in one of the 'honeycombs'? I read a strand that had suggested drilling
some drainag
Chuck
I did the limber hole thing this spring. Same issue on my 35/3. There
aren't any on the port side of the mast. No one knows why. I drilled
holes using a flexible attachment and short bits from Harbor Freight, then
epoxied in plastic tube even though none of the other limber holes have
t
Chuck,
You bring up a very sore subject, but one that I must soon address. There
is a small area just to the port side of centerline, in front of the mast
that collects water. If left full, it will spill over into the bottom of
the head door sill. The area just below the head door on my boat
Bob,
Is that a hint?
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
>
> From: Bob Moriarty
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Sent: Monday, April 1, 2013 7:50 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Control Panels
>
>
>The engine control panel on Ox has a push-button start
Sorry, I typically include that info as a signature. Just deciding on 5 oz
or 6.3 oz now. Boat is a C&C 32 sailed in and around Toronto. Light air
most of the summer, more wind in the spring and fall. This will be my only
headsail for the time being so I'm looking for a compromise between
longevity
Hi MarekI installed the WaterWitch switch (model 230?) In Alegria after I
purchased her in 2006. She did not have an automatic switch by PO's. I did
have to construct a bracket to mount it and a manual DPDT lighted bilge pump
switch on that bracket, so, when examining the bilge I can ope
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