Hi,
Anyone have experience removing the chainplates? Are the bolts accessible or
glassed in? Boat is a C&C 37+
As part of the rigging replacement, corrosion was found on the chainplate where
the turn buckle attaches.
-Rob
Sent from my iPhone
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Hi all,
I'm about to start rebedding some of my deck hardware on my C&C 33 mkii
(1986) and have moved onto the chainplates.
Inside the boat, there is a tie rod that is connected to the hull and runs
up to an aluminum block on the underside of the deck. The block is directly
under the chainplate;
Hi all,
I'm rebedding most of my deck hardware this spring and have come to my
chainplates. I have a C&C 33 mkii (1986). Inside the boat, a tie rod runs
from the hull up to an aluminum block on the underside of the deck. The
chainplate is attached to the aluminum block by 4 bolts.
The starboard s
I see your boat was built in '93 and probably by then C&C changed methods. Good
to know.
> On May 6, 2018 at 11:48 AM Brian Fry via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I removed my chainplates this winter and was relieved to find no core
> material. All solid.
> Yes the flange prevents making an e
I removed my chainplates this winter and was relieved to find no core
material. All solid.
Yes the flange prevents making an easy fix, you do have to remove the
chainplate to get at the material to be removed. On mine, the leaks were
more of an issue with the bolts, not the plate. Still haven't rep
Jimmy, you're paying attention. I owned two 1966 Hinterhoeller Sharks, one
of them here in salt water, plus our 29-2 (I think) and 35-3 (for sure)
came with aluminum chainplates. I'm interested to see what it looks like in
there.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 2 June 2015
jim watts probably good to check with.believe he had shark before he
moved up to current c&cif early built shark he will know what to look
for in your yachthinterholler sharks in early days used many different
metals for chainplateseven aluminum...let us know how it goes..
