I have 3/8" Maxibraid sheets and use Barient 27STs, when racing solo. If I race
w crew we use Barient 28 non selftailing but one crew tails keeping the line
low while the grinder faces forward, one foot on the toerail and the other in
cockpit, chest over winch, grinding hard and fast, w both han
Maybe the knurling would help but 1/2 inch sheets would help too and if you
use slippery braid for sheets it will work better after it gets weathered
for a few seasons, alternatively buy 1/2 inch lines made to be used as
genoa sheets
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay,
: Re: Stus-List self-tailing winch problem
Hi Josh- great info!
On Oct 5, 2015, at 10:08 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
wrote:
David,
The screws which Joel mentioned are, from my experience, a type of cap screw.
You might want to remove them one at a time and lube them with tef-gel, or
anti
Here is a link to the diagram. 4 screws, not 3.
http://l-36.com/winches_pages.php?winch=bar28_stw.htm
I have 7/16 Sta-Set. 3 wraps and the tailer does not slip. The drums are
smooth aluminum.
Joel
On Mon, Oct 5, 2015 at 12:24 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
If your winches have seen a lot of use, I suggest you have them knurled.
Mine (Lewmar STs #30 and #50) had ~ 15 years of use and I had them re-knurled
with a simple vertical 'scoring' pattern of 'medium' harshness for $30 each.
Too much 'harshness' will chew up your line.
They now hold as if ne
Knurling is the process by which texture is given to metal. Usually metal
handles of wrenches and hammers or other tools will be knurled with a
cross-hatched pattern. There are lots of options and harshnesses which can
be chosen by the machinist.
I'm not particularly familiar with the best line
I went to 3/8 VPC for spin halyards to save weight. The knobby surface
provides good hand grip. The line locks well in the clutch.
I tried 7/16 for jib sheets and also found them a bit slippery. The other issue
is we broke the core on one line earlier this year. The core - core eye splice
was fine
Hi Josh- great info!
On Oct 5, 2015, at 10:08 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
wrote:
> David,
>
> The screws which Joel mentioned are, from my experience, a type of cap screw.
> You might want to remove them one at a time and lube them with tef-gel, or
> anti-seeze. If they get stuck they bre
Oh yeah I almost forgot. Your winches are most likely shot... You should
give them to me so that they can be properly disposed of 😁.
In all seriousness, keep me in mind if you decide to "upgrade".
Josh
On Oct 5, 2015 9:05 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List"
wrote:
> We raced yesterday in 20+ k
David,
The screws which Joel mentioned are, from my experience, a type of cap
screw. You might want to remove them one at a time and lube them with
tef-gel, or anti-seeze. If they get stuck they break. If they are over
torqued they break. If they are not fully tightened or the springs are old
L-36.com has the manuals. There should be 3 screws you can tighten on the
tailer.
Joel
On Monday, October 5, 2015, Dennis C. via CnC-List
wrote:
> VPC is slippery. I switched to VPC couple years ago for genoa sheets and
> found 1-2 additional wraps were needed depending on wind strength. I ha
VPC is slippery. I switched to VPC couple years ago for genoa sheets and
found 1-2 additional wraps were needed depending on wind strength. I have
Barlow 28 non-ST's.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Mon, Oct 5, 2015 at 8:04 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wro
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