Russ, it's a slat-bottom Zodiac. It really is an inflatable, I pump it up
in the spring and deflate it in the fall. Usually don't have to do anything
to it in between.
I really like the concept of an air floor, most folks seem happy with
theirs. With no storage at home, it has to live in the mother
I tow mine on the front of the second stern wave. It can surf down the
front of the wave to reduce pull on the tow line but should not run up
against your stern in following waves. I do keep a small fender on the
tow line about 4 feet in front of the dinghy and when I stop the dinghy
usually
Hi Jim,
Is this a hard dinghy, d'flatable (with x type floor) or a hybrid?
I'm intrigued by the high pressure floor d'flatables but haven't
tried one yet.
Only an optimistic person calls them inflatables 'cause that is not
their preference from what I've seen.
Cheers, Russ
We towed a light dinghy all the way around Vancouver Island, and usually
set it for minimum drag, so 2-3 fingers of pressure in calm weather. As the
wind and waves increased, we pulled the dinghy right up on the transom so
only the back end is in the water. That also stops the wind from spinning
it
Had the same thing happen to me last week, slightly under-inflated
dinghy filled up when the bow dug in. Now I pull the plug on the
transom, it has a flap to keep water from flowing in but drains itself
when moving.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 8/10/2016 2:56 PM, Dennis C
On Wed, Aug 10, 2016 at 12:59 PM, Indigo via CnC-List wrote:
> I let enough of the painter out when under way so that the dinghy surfs
> down the wave created by indigo. I feel that this reduces the tension on
> the painter - and thus the drag.
Did that once with a slightly under-inflated ding
As has been touched on, in reasonably calm conditions, tow the dinghy so it is
going uphill on the first or second stern wave. That will keep tension on the
tow line. For longer passages or ones where we anticipate rough weather, we
lift onto the foredeck and lash it in place. It's a pain in the
I tow an inflatable from time to time so don't know how relevant this is to a
hard dinghy.
I have an long purpos built dinghy tether / painter with 2 attachment points at
the dinghy. I let enough of the painter out when under way so that the dinghy
surfs down the wave created by indigo. I feel
Our dinghy tows best on the backside of the 1st or 2nd stern wave. That
way the bow is pointed upward so it doesn't dive.
Dennis C.
On Wed, Aug 10, 2016 at 11:16 AM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> We have a hard shell dinghy. How long should the tow line be? We had o
Always remember, and NEVER forget: When you are approaching anywhere you
will be stopping, even briefly, first pull the dinghy up close so you
don't wrap the painter around your prop. A floating painter is not 100%
protection from this issue. ;-)
Bill Bina
On 8/10/2016 1:13 PM, S Thomas via
The recommendation I was given during a CYA training trip was to let the
painter out one wave length in order to get both the dingy and the mother ship
on the same part of the wave and reduce jerk loads on the painter. That advice
presupposes that the waves are somewhat regular. I have no idea w
Bev,
I work for a rope manufacturer and we get asked about tow bridles quite often.
The only time I recommend a tow line to be longer than 25’ or so is when the
dinghy is being towed by a boat that is fast enough to generate a sizeable
secondary wave behind the stern. In most boats that would
I have seen people keep the painter very short. To the effect that it is
lifting the bow of the dinghy out of the water. When I had my dinghy flip
it was because of following seas. I surfed down one wave and slowed when I
reached the trough. The dinghy however had not reached the trough yet and
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