To reduce maintenance I removed the teak drop boards and made a single board
from 1/2" King Starboard. I later made swinging doors from 3/4" PVC sheet from
Home Depot with stainless take apart hinges. They look great and are easy to
use. Made a storage shelf from thinner PVC material for the
Mine are two pieces of starboard with an overlap lip where they meet. It will
likely outlast the boat. Came with the boat so I don't know how it was made.
Heavier than lexan and no light gets through, but I appreciate the durability.
The upper also has a solar fan mounted in the middle, whic
I agree with the choice of Acrylic, and still like the 1 piece. Easier to store without scratching.Consider using the "Smoke" version, it's much better for the interior than sitting in the sun with clearIf you go with the 3 piece, figure out how you will provide rain-off at the section joints.
As I recall, Lexan is preferred for horizontal surfaces (like a hatch cover)
where someone might stand because it’s stronger than regular plexi (acrylic).
It also scratches more easily, so for vertical use plexi is fine. I bought a
half sheet of plexi to replace my windows and make hatch board
Practical Sailor June Issue is all about waterlines and stripes!
I used 3M 1/2" reflective tape for the cove stripe, 1" for the waterline,
and it looks really sharp, especially in low light.
Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA
On Wed, May 29, 2024 at 8:59 AM John McCrea via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-lis
I used 1/2" Lexan, (Tuffak) for both hatch board and sliding hatch cover.
Coincidentally, I just came across a couple pieces that I never used, that
I was thinking of putting on EBay - Let me know what sizes you need off
list.
Lexan is handy if you think anyone might be shooting at you.
Bill Colem
I made mine (one piece) out of acrylic (Plexiglass). It doesn't scratch as
easily as polycarbonate (Lexan). Don't let your blades (saw or router
blades) get hot or they will melt the material. There are several places in
and around Portland, OR. that sell both types of material. You don't say
where
Thanks John,
I may call on some local helpers on this one!
From: John Read via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2024 9:50 AM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net; John Read
Subject: Stus-List Re: Original Waterline Dimensions
John
The width varies over the length of the
Good day all,
*FIREFLY *is in need of a hatch board upgrade from her one piece solid wood
slab.
Looking to move back to a 3 part style with (at least) 1 part made of a
clear(ish) plastic.
The question to the group is who has used what type of plastic and how have
they held up.
(Plexiglass vs lexa
John
The width varies over the length of the boat - narrow at mid-section, wider
at bow and widest at stern. If still available, trace the original OEM
edges. If not and memory serves there is a process using a fluid filled
clear tubing where you can trace the edges. The idea is to maintain
Listers,
Talisman is getting painted this week and we will need to redo the
waterlines. Does anyone know the original factory waterline sizes? Looking
at the brochures, it looks like a 5 or so-inch line on the bottom and maybe
2 on top. Also, has anyone done the C&C inlay with gold leaf paint?
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