Hello all,
Thank you very much for your opinions and insights. It appears that fixing
this, while a priority, won't be an emergency, and once I get the v berth
sole up, I should be able to create a plan for the repair. I'll let
everyone know what I find.
Thanks again,
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C
Hey Shawn,
You might like Thixo Flex better.
It comes out like a thickened brown gel. I usually use a plastic putty knife
to level the surface but you can leave it proud if you prefer.
Chuck S
> On 02/17/2021 11:52 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
> I used Six10
Hi Bruce,
I haven't had this problem yet. I may be able to provide a bit of info
though.
As you know, there are webs fiberglassed to the interior of the hull that
provide reinforcement. These webs form a reinforcing grid that C&C
referred to as the 'Spider'. These individual webs are generally
Make a rule to send C&C emails to a folder. Read at leisure or ignore as you
please ;)
From: tim via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2021 1:54 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: tim
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: C&C 34 re-power HP
Hello Stu
Thanks for adding me to
Hello Stu
Thanks for adding me to the list, but I am afraid that without the digest
function it is just too many emails. Please take me off the list. thank
you and be well.
On Tue, Feb 16, 2021 at 2:14 PM Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Get something with at least
Fred describes precisely what I do. Dave
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT
> On Feb 17, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Ninety nine percent of the time my baby stay is fastened with a snap shackle
> to the mast collar at the base of the mast.
> When I go offs
Ninety nine percent of the time my baby stay is fastened with a snap shackle to
the mast collar at the base of the mast.
When I go offshore I attach it to the slide fitting to prevent pumping or mast
inversion.
To make it easier to tack and protect the sail I have installed a 20 foot
section
Gorilla clear tape is fabulous.
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 17, 2021, at 11:52 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List
wrote:
I used Six10 on my keel joint at West's recommendation. Haven't hauled yet to
see how it has held up, but it seemed to work well enough. A bit difficult to
work with, but I do
I used Six10 on my keel joint at West's recommendation. Haven't hauled yet
to see how it has held up, but it seemed to work well enough. A bit
difficult to work with, but I don't have much experience with epoxy. I use
it without the mixing nozzles for small jobs, including some holes in the
deck, b
There is a West equivalent to the Thixo Flex. Also fits in a caulking
gun. I believe it is 610. Same nozzles.A couple bucks more, but available
most places that sell West.
Joel
On Wed, Feb 17, 2021 at 10:08 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Learned these thin
Learned these things the hard way:
The 3M heavy duty shipping tape is a great product and available everywhere and
doesn't leave a residue like duct tape. After the epoxy cures, it peels right
off and will leave the final surface smooth.
If you use 404 High Density Filler instead of 406, you
Ron:
I have found that black Gorilla “duct” tape works well, although I may try the
3M mailing tape someone suggested. Also, if you are using West System, before
you put in an epoxy mixture (like colloidal silica), you are supposed to “wet”
the surrounding area first to ensure a strong bond
another trick to removing core is using a ground down Allen key chucked in a
drill, working from above.
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/07/deck-fill-core-removal-and-reinforcement.html?m=1
To keep the epoxy in place make sure you use lots of colloidal silica in the
mix.
Dave
Windstar 3
Put tape on the underside to cover the holes before filling with thickened
epoxy. Then once cured drill appropriate sized hole in the epoxy for the
fastener.
Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: February 16, 2021 7:26 PM
To: Matthew via CnC-List
Cc: Ro
The problem IMHO with getting used engines is if you modify the boat to accept
the new engine and it turns out to be bad, you did a lot of work you’ll have to
undo unless you can find another used engine that will more or less fit all the
same mounts and connections.
Perhaps this engine is comm
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