I came across a sealant, for aluminum to stucco. It meant to deal with
'significant' movements. I used to (temporarily) seal the head hatch, still
holding up well after 2 years. It was readily available at Home Depot, the
tube is on the boat so I do not have the info. The sealant is off-whit
Hi,
I've read the other responses and while it would be best to do the job right,
VHB and 795, and so on, I have had good luck with the 795. I used just 795 to
replace my portlights two years ago and they have held up very well in Toronto
where we get dramatic temperature variations from summer
Hi Bruce
Any permanent leak replacement requires a removal / cleaning / new window / use
a suitable sealer & adhesive such as Dow 795 or similar. An interim solution
is use 3M decorative tape (black??) and tape over the joint of window and cabin
top. We did this for several years and it st
HI Fred,
I think the VHB thickness used most frequently is 0.090". I believe
that thickness to be sufficient to allow movement of the acrylic without
cracking.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~
On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 8:03 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
All,
One unforeseen disadvantage is that any mechanical fastener creates a
stress concentration which will almost guarantee a crack will form in the
acrylic.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~
On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 6:42 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
An earlier lister talked about a port on his 37 cracking because of flex.
I too had that problem after a somewhat rough trip up the coast. My
question is "would a thicker VBR tape allow greater flexing and prevent the
port breaking." I believe 1/16" tape has be been recommended. Would 1/8"
tape hel
Hi Peter
On my LF 38 (1984) the Depth Sounder throughull is located under the fwd V
Berth, just Aft of the water tank, Port side.
The knotmeter throughull is right next to it.
Its very tricky reaching in there, unless you have super skinny arms, twice the
normal length.
Good luck
John
I think Frank was just referring to the fact that silicone calk and tape of
any type are only short sighted solutions and may even make the final
repair more difficult. Silicone makes everything it touches nearly
impervious to any other adhesive or sealer in the future, and most tapes
will break d
Thank you Ron. I will look as you suggest and hopefully will find the
transducer.
Peter
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: Ron Ricci
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2017 6:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schu...@gmail.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List Signet Depth Sounder Location on a C&C Landfall 38
Hi Bruce,
I had the thin bow end of the fixed light snap or crack vertically while away
from the dock on vacation. It leaked when it rained and that was when I
actually noticed the crack. I was able to use a thick layer of clear silicone
to temporarily stop the leak. I used tape on each side of
Okay, I’ll bite: what does it mean to “do the job right”? Caulk/adhesive,
mechanical fasteners, or both?
From: Franklin Schenk via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Franklin Schenk
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C&C 3
Bruce,
Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way. Unless
you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip. Later you can
do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.
Frank
On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List
My earlier '89 never had the storage box, instead just an access cover.
The PO had removed the 4 screws in the corners of the cover. It stays in
place really well so I've never seen it necessary to replace them. I can
pull the cover and then squeeze pretty much all the way back. The PO cut
the ru
HI Bruce,
I installed one fitting inline above the other, but I don't recall the
vertical distance between them or the deck. I did go at it though the back
of the stern berth as you suggest.
Gary
~~~_/)~~
On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 3:26 PM, bwhitmore--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list
Excellent pics and step by step. I am thinking through the same process for
my 34+. When I reviewed the build file for my boat I found that C&C had put
some sort of high strength synthetic reinforcement in place of the balsa for
about a foot back of the hatch, so hopefully sealing core will not be
Hi Gary,
Excellent insight. I'm not on the boat at the moment, so forgive the basic
question. I'm assuming you removed the storage box at the aft of the stern
berth and drilled the holes high up in the rudder shaft tube close to the
bottomside of the deck, correct? Or is there somewher
I'm guessing it's wishful thinking. The windows "work" significantly when
the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long. My previous
owner tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success. That being
said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone and may work better
than
I drilled two holes in my rudder post with the rudder still in place. I
simply drilled the hole in the relatively soft fiberglass post until I felt
the drill hit the harder stainless post. I then ground the tip of the
drill square so I could be sure the drill went full depth at the full
diameter.
Hello again everyone,
Our C&C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights windows. I
have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many seem to be
recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar).
I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place
When my rudder was out, I drilled and tapped holes for zirc fittings.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Tue, Mar 28, 2017, 11:42 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Our previous C&C, a 1977 27 MKIII had a grease cap on the rudder p
Hello all,
Our previous C&C, a 1977 27 MKIII had a grease cap on the rudder post by which
I could grease the rudder shaft. It took me a few years of ownership to
notice it, but when I did, and subsequently greased the shaft, the resulting
improvement in the ease of steering was immediately not
I too am considering adding a windlass to ease retrieving the heavier
anchor on my 30-2. It appears to me that C&C used a standard forward
hatch/ chain locker assembly on their boats. Am I correct in that
observation? If so, is there also a windlass configuration where the
entire unit is mounted
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