I have a WS45 Wind Indicator which for the first few years (2004-2006) worked
fine, then the speed stopped showing. Later, I tried to connect directly to
the instrument and at that time thought it worked fine so when I had the boat
on the hard, I sent it to the distributor who said it works fin
Josh, I like that idea. Saves me from having do go for a cold swim. Now
if only I could train my 6year old to swap out the hoses and clamps --
crawling under the cockpit requires painful contortion.
Do you use this tygon hose technique on all your thru hulls?
On Sep 3, 2016, at 8:14 PM, Josh Mu
Neil — yes, you should be able to connect the M81190 fluxgate compass into the
“compass” input on the TackTick.
— Fred
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> On Sep 7, 2016, at 10:23 AM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Ron,
>
> I'm intereste
Ron,
I'm interested. I have a Raymarine ST40 Bidata (speed/depth) that I
feed to a Raymarine/Tacktick hull transmitter with Seatalk converter to
get boatspeed to the Tacktick. Would you or anyone on the list know if
this transmitter could feed the Tacktick as well?
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly
On the installs I’ve done personally, I’ll make up a “shelf” (a horizontal
plate, with two vertical gussets) for the drive out of 3/4” premade fiberglass
board, shaped to the curve of the hull; that gets epoxied, heavily tabbed and
glassed onto the hull. That seems to do the trick. The drives
While you are taking things apart, two things to check/fix on a MK I:
The collar that keeps the rudder from dropping out of the boat was made of cast
iron. Mine was about 99% ready to let go when I got it off and replaced it with
stainless steel. The other thing is the plastic bearing in the cock
I'm very interested in how this works out for you. I'm currently considering a
Simrad SD10 Mechanical Drive Unit (same as Octopus RS) for my 35 Mk1 because it
seems like it will be easier to install and easier to fix in the event there is
a malfunction. Additionally, replacement parts can be
+1 on #2 (Make sure what you connect it the other end to is strong enough. We
had an old Morgan steer like crazy because the entire hull was flexing! We had
to glass in a lot of extra stiffening)
I read somewhere about a linear drive that ripped itself off the mounting
shelf. These things gener
When I used to install them I would make a mount that was in the same plane as
the rudder quadrant. This made the motion of the drive in the horizontal plane
only. This is IMHO best if you have the room. We would get an aluminum plate
fabricated that would bolt onto the rudder quadrant if there
I can speak to this...although I have a 37, not a Landfall 38, the issues which
Fred addresses are the same; pinched stern and zero wiggle room below
decks...are the same; it was tough getting ours to fit and took several
attempts and placements before we finally settled on a location; on my boa
I have a Raymarine M81190 ST Compass Transducer that has never been used and
is still in the box. It sells for $173.99 on Defender.com. If someone
makes a donation of $75.00 (or more) to Stu's list, they can have it. I'll
ship it for free to anywhere in the US.
Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Pa
Paul — regardless of tiller arm or radial drive (NOT quadrant — thanks, Chuck
Gilchrest! :^), the geometry of the drive to the rudder post is the same: you
need to mount the drive pin X inches from the center of the rudder post. So
the angle through which the drive has to rotate is the same.
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