Patrick,
I can’t tell exactly what part of the bulkhead you are addressing from the
pictures.
I do see that there may have been a battery mounted in the vicinity.
I also have some rot in the same bulkhead, caused from battery acid spilled
from an unsecure battery in the engine compartment.
The
Nice write up!
Joel
On Monday, December 7, 2015, Dave Syer via CnC-List
wrote:
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/
>
--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Bacon sails can also make one.
Joel
On Monday, December 7, 2015, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> My sailmaker was able to custom make a solution for my needs. Quantum
> Solomons, MD (Clark Mckinney). I can provide email and/or phone if desired
> but I suggest talkin
My sailmaker was able to custom make a solution for my needs. Quantum
Solomons, MD (Clark Mckinney). I can provide email and/or phone if desired
but I suggest talking to your local sail lofts or canvas specialist.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Dec 7, 2015 7:50 PM, "tim v
Not sure what your cockpit looks like. Pretty much that same panel showed
rot on my 35-1. The cause was poor caulk under the coaming of the port
cockpit locker. Your LF38 may be made differently.
I like Rick's suggestion about an access port.
Failing that, best option might involve scarfing in
Ryan,
You've already gotten several good replies. I guess you saw this:
"http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/smile/index.htm";.
That's Touche', my 35-1. As others have said, torque the keel bolts. A
rental shop nearby may have a torque multiplier. You can get cheap large
sockets at Har
Well, first just check the torque specs and see if they are right. I would
not worry about freezing. If you are in the water, it is too deep down. If
you are on the hard, water will drain. Dry up the bilge, if you want to
feel good about it, seal up the smiles with a thin layer of 4200 or life
chau
Hi,
I'm in need of replacing my mainsail Doyle stack pack as the canvas is
rotten (came with the boat and enjoy the simplicity). A winter project.
I was just curious if others may have such a system, and
advice/recommendations for brand of replacement. I tried to search the
archives and u
My friend’s 1983 LF38 has a rather large removable rectangular panel in the
area you are talking about (which provides pretty fair access to the right side
of the engine, transmission, and v drive, as I know from personal experience).
There are stainless tabs on the edge of the panel that keep t
I've heard good things about Smith's CPES. Lower cost/oz than any other
product. I've use an entire quart (2 pint kit) of it and have received
good piece of mind as a result, but no quantifiable evidence of it's
effectiveness. They make lofty claims which i don't mind testing on
non-structural a
Sorry - a little hasty and the dreaded double post.
If the entire bottom is rotten along a 2-3' length I would cut it out.
First though, make sure by prodding it hard with a screwdriver along its
length. Wash with bleach so you can see past the mildew..
I would be very surprised if the rot was no
Wow. This seems like a great forum. Thanks for the responses... And all this
time I've been slumming it over at Sailnet :)
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 7, 2015, at 6:49 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Here's a write up I saved from Epoxy Works magazine published by West Systems.
I would be very surprised if the rot was not a result of standing water
collecting at the bottom. Even condensation dripping down if it is humid as
you say.
My thought would be to cut above the area of rot it with a hole saw, then cut
vertically down to the bottom, making a mouse hole. Si
Patrick — from what I can see in your photos, I wouldn’t be surprised if the
battery (or a previous one) had something to do with the rot. The
discoloration and deterioration of the wood could have come from acid leak or
outgassing of hydrogen sulfide from a battery being overcharged.
Your bes
Here's a write up I saved from Epoxy Works magazine published by West
Systems.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=docslist_api
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Dec 7, 2015 4:11 PM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I'm brand
Ryan,
I’d be surprised if there was a problem with freezing. I know on my boat that
basically the water just drained out a few days after the haul. Others may chip
in here with better ideas which is the beauty of this list.
Were it me, and take that with a grain of salt given my track record of
Thanks for your reply Dave. Love the blog. Yes water ingress is certainly
a concern, but I have not noticed any rust bleeding out. I'm wondering if I
should wait until spring when I paint to torque the bolts. Or do you think
there's a risk of water ingress over the winter? I'm in NY, so she wil
Welcome to the list Ryan.
I’m sure that you’re worried about what may be going on with your keel bolts
with the crack and water ingress. I know that I was and I have to state, I let
my “smile” go for 15 years even after it was apparent when I bought the boat. I
turned a willful blind eye to the
Thanks Danny I appreciate it. I know I saw a forum on here about how to
fair and fill the crack. Going to take a look at that again.
On Mon, Dec 7, 2015 at 4:14 PM, Della Barba, Joe
wrote:
> All I did on my boat was get a big socket wrench and tighten the bolts.
>
> Others will chip in soon wi
Don't think I would get too worried about that unless you have water
ingress around any of the keel bolts, if not just tighten the nuts to spec
then clean around the crack surfaces (maybe with an angle grinder) fill the
smile using epoxy and glass matte and fair
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna
Hi Ryan, welcome to the list! I had a worse looking smile than that on my
Viking 33 when I got her. I had the yard torque the bolts (I didn't have a
torque wrench that could handle the job) and they cleaned and faired the crack.
4 years later there was no sign of the smile returning. I'm thi
Thanks Joe. That's a relief to hear. I have not torqued the bolts yet,
but I plan to using the specs on cnc photo album. I can't stop picturing
the nightmare scenario of my feel falling off... like that Oyster off the
coast of Spain recently.
On Mon, Dec 7, 2015 at 4:14 PM, Della Barba, Joe
wr
All I did on my boat was get a big socket wrench and tighten the bolts.
Others will chip in soon with more involved repairs.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2015 4:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc
Hi all,
I'm brand new to the list here and I'm not quite sure how this list works
yet... But I'm excited to join because I'm the proud new owner of a 1976
C&C 30 mki.
My boat is hauled for the winter and is exhibiting the much-talked-about
C&C "smile" at the front of the keel, but there is also a
So I'm doing a lot of projects lately, and was majorly bummed out to find
the wall between the engine compartment and the lower foot of the port aft
quarterberth has some significant rot. Frustrated because lately it feels
like every project I fix, I find a new one. And this will be a big one.
Ple
So jealous you got long term Bahamas plans on the horizon. Actually, most of
Bahamas drinking water comes from desalination plants.
Anyway, I would utilize all the tanks all the time. Have means to combine or
separate. Maybe rotate them. Because the minute you start storing water for
l
C&C is my no means perfect. For just one example, my boat came with all fresh
water hardware store gate valves! Did C&C think their boats never left Lake
Ontario?
That said, the basic structure seems vastly stronger than a lot of what gets
built today.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [m
Petar:
Thanks for reminding me that all the components don't need to be in one place.
So, all I need is a couple smaller spaces.
I've been thinking about plumbing the WM only into the forward (largest) tank
and just draw from that tank while anchored in the Bahamas. This way, I would
probabl
Just some thoughts on my experience.
Modular design gives you opportunity to spread pressure vessels, hoses and
controls over larger areas. It’s a pain in the a.. when things need to be
repaired but it allows you to not sacrifice considerable space. One of the
reasons I went the DIY path is
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca
Hello all. Just finished a major rebuild of my 33ii keel-stub/mast step and
will be posting photos and details later this week to assist others who may
have questions in the future. Major work! Thanks to Doug A and others on
this list for guidance with thi
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