Probably sold his C&C and now, realizing the horrid blunder that has been made,
is in a barely functioning state of mind. I say, take pity and help out the
poor sole in his time of need.
From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 8:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stu
Almost 20 years into internet lists and people still scream, GET ME OFF THIS
LIST! instead of selecting the unsubscribe option. What does that say about a
person's list skills? And... what did someone on this list do to piss him
off so much? :-)
Ed
> On May 13, 2014, at 4:24 PM, william dr
Our boat has a bulb with a stinger that extends past the trailing edge of the
keel. I use a kellet, (Walmart 20# mushroom anchor) and it does a good job to
keep the slack on the bottom and a small round fender to keep the line near the
surface as far from the bow as possible, but found the best
Rebuilt my deck around the mast collar. It was balsa cored and the core was not
sealed very well and got wet. I cut out an opening about 18" w X 24" long,
replaced the balsa and rebuilt the deck trying to match the original layup and
camber. I centered the collar using a string line bow to stern
I changed the holding tank on my C&C 30 because the thing was leaking.
It starts by removing the vanity, the sink. It's fairly easy, everything is
screwed, not glued.
I had to destroy the back panel because screws were not accessible. I made a
pattern for the new one before destroying the old one
I have both an SSB and satphone on board. I've also been offshore getting
smacked by the NE side of a named storm.
We used the SSB for regular updates with the nearest shore based station
(Bermuda Radio) and also used the SSB for sending and receiving email and
weather data. It's great for that
Stu... you've got to stop going out and signing people up for the list
without them knowing about it. :-)
Cheers,
Colin
On Tue, May 13, 2014 at 4:24 PM, william drose via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Take me off this damn list NOW!
>
> __
One of the listers posted this tip: place a piece of line (3/8 or so) right
along the toe rail, in the part where the water stands - maybe about two
feet long and then have another foot or so threaded through the slot/hole in
the toe rail and hanging over the side. It will wick the water out and
Calypso's 1971 Bruckmann built deck has a plywood core around the mast collar
out about 6" then transitions to balsa.
Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle
[cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Anderson via CnC-List
Sen
I would use the same thing I use for storing my mast in the winter, a 6 X 6
Pressure treated post which (now) supports the bulk of the mast and is high
enough to the ends clear both the pulpits. I have 1 ½ plywood bolted onto
the top with a cutout for the mast. If I was traveling with this, I wou
Len,
I did pull out the box cupboard and there is a bulkhead that blocks access
on my boat. However, I could cut an access panel that would be hidden.
Thanks for your help,
Ron
From: Len Mitchell [mailto:len.mitch...@barrie.ca]
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 3:42 PM
To: 'ron.ri...@19
Take me off this damn list NOW!
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So, Cut a piece of sponge about 1 square and 3-5 inches long. Slice it
half way through near the center. Now insert the sponge through your rail
hole near the water pool and open the cut slot to fit over the lower part of
the rail
and then leave it alone and never touch it again.
The wate
When I refurbished the area around my mast collar it was Balsa
Bill Coleman
C&C 39
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 3:45 PM
To: Steve Anderson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Partner
Steve,
Welcome!! Sweet boat!
On my 83 35/3 the deck is cored except in high stress areas such as where
the winches are mounted. There it is solid glass. I've never explored the
area around the mast. Let us know what you find out.
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Tue, May 13, 2014 at 3:16 PM, Steve An
Ron
Yep, that's the way. It's not that difficult, though the access is a
little tight, we replaced the hose as it was leaking and playing
hell with the pressurized system. We added a nice kitchen sink type
spry nozzle with a release that you can either press for a quick shot
or flip up for
Hi,
I'm new to this list and have just acquired a 1984 C&C 41. There is some
fairly significant crazing on the deck around the mast partner. Therefore, I
am trying to determine what the construction of the deck is to help with
repairs. The fiberglass shop that I'm dealing with thinks it's p
You can also use a bit of cotton rope as a siphon, removing it while under way
of course. Almost like a baggywrinkle.
From: via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 2:52:12 PM
Subject: Stus-List Standing water on deck
Hi all,
I ju
Chuck,
Thanks for the info. I'm just going with what was on the boat
when I bought it --- with only a 27lb plow/CQR anchor (Kingston
K27) I can't imagine I'll over stress the 5/8" line --- but given
there was 200+' of line already in my bow anchor locker a
Hi all,
I just recently bought a C&C 33 Mk II and have noticed that I have standing
water around the aft part of the toerail for several days after a rainfall.
I was thinking of putting a notch in the toerail to help it drain (at least
most of it) or perhaps a little 90 degree scupper from the
Uh-oh. Buncha sailors comparing the size of their anchors. This won't
end well! ;-)
Bill Bina
On 5/13/2014 2:38 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:
I think Joel is right in that what is unusual is that heavy anchor line and
chain size for only a 27-lb anchor. I use that size anchor line and
I think Joel is right in that what is unusual is that heavy anchor line and
chain size for only a 27-lb anchor. I use that size anchor line and chain on
my 44-lb anchor!
Bob
Bob Boyer
(Sent from my iPad4)
S/V Rainy Days
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
Annapolis, Maryland
email: dainyr...@iclo
I don't have. 30 Mk 1 but a Landfall 38 and I will be switching to a Nature's
Head composting toilet very soon. You can completely eliminate the holding
tank, all the smelly plumbing, and be zero discharge. It seems like a "no
brainier" decision to me. The cost is about $1,000 but you save fu
An excellent 25 lb bronze one came with my boat and I all ways use it. It is
very helpful if you anchor where the currents shift with the tide.
I can put 70LBs of metal near or on the bottom. But only retrieve 40lbs at a
time. Much easier on the back.
Mike
Padanaram, MA
-Original Messag
Anyone have an idea where to have chain re-galvanized in the New England?
Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C&C 38MkII
Newport, RI
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I am far from being an expert on the topic, but the use of kellets always
brings some discussions.
Compare some of these:
http://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/kellets.php
http://cruising.coastalboating.net/Seamanship/Anchoring/Kellets.html
http://kb.rocna.com/kb/Kellets_and_buoys
just my
They can be invaluable if you have a short length of chain and are anchoring in
a current. Absent a kellet or enough chain, being anchored off Chestertown with
a 2 knot reversing current always ends up with the rode around the keel.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-
On 5/13/2014 12:59 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
On the topic of anchors and anchoring. Does anyone have any thoughts
on kelets or "anchor buddies"?
I ALWAYS use a kellet made from a small vinyl coated mushroom anchor, a
couple of carabiners, 30 feet of small diameter line for retr
On the topic of anchors and anchoring. Does anyone have any thoughts on
kelets or "anchor buddies"?
On May 13, 2014 12:41 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Many years ago, a salty old retired USCG chief taught me the rule of thumb
> that you should have one pound of anchor and one foot of c
Many years ago, a salty old retired USCG chief taught me the rule of thumb that
you should have one pound of anchor and one foot of chain for every foot of
boat length.
I decided this current discussion would be a good time to double check that
rule of thumb.
I was pleased to find that Boat/US
On our 37+ a previous owner put a deck access plate in the shower wall,
just below the valve.
One of these: http://www.beckson.com/dckplt.html
Ken H.
On 13 May 2014 11:15, Ron Ricci via CnC-List wrote:
> Does anyone know how to get to back of the shower valve to remove it? It
> looked like t
Does anyone know how to get to back of the shower valve to remove it? It
looked like taking off the darker gray trim piece that runs around the
shower might give access. I didn't want to remove this if there is another
way.
Thanks,
Ron Ricci
Patriot
Bristol, RI
_
I would not use 3/8” line for anchoring anything but a dinghy. Not that would
snap outright, but it has no margin at all for chafe and wear. FYI right now I
have 30 feet of 5/16” chain and 5/8” rode. I used to have 12 feet of ¼” chain
and half inch rode. It survived a hurricane, so it was obviou
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