Re: [RBW] Re: Help! Chain/tire rub problem with my Susie build

[dgstringfield]

Hi David,

In addition to switching to Boost cranks, you could add 5mm of spacers to
the non drive side of the hub and re-dish the rear wheel.  I think this
would effectively move the tire over about 2.5mm in relation the to crank.
The OLD would go from 135mm to 140 and make reinstalling the wheel a little
harder unless you have the rear triangle coldest to 140mm. However, I’ve
never had issues installing a 135mm wheel in a 130mm spaced frame. Or you
could have a rear wheel built with a tandem hub and have the rear triangle
cold set to 145mm.


Good luck.

Dareck
Hamden, CT

On Sat, Jun 27, 2020 at 9:11 AM David Wadstrup 
wrote:

> Good morning.
>
> Thanks, Kurt.  I I struggled with the 1x vs 2x decision for a long time
> before committing to the 2x.  And I was pretty confident I made the right
> decision until now.  I think you're right, the 1x would solve my problem
>  --  that 1 ring would sit, I think, almost exactly where my current big
> ring now sits.  And I get no chain rub while in the big-big combo.  Not a
> ton of clearance, but it's definitely not touching.  The only problem, and
> this is a huge one, is that I've already bought and mounted all the 2x
> parts -- crankset, cassette, derailer, and even left hand shifter.  These
> would all have to be replaced at great cost, unfortunately.  So, as much as
> I might be wishing I'd gone 1x, I think either a new skinnier tire, or
> simply not using the low-low gear of the 2x makes a lot more sense
> money-wise.  Now, if it turns out that I don't get good shifting with this
> set-up, or if chainsuck becomes and issue, you just might see a bunch a
> lightly used 2x12 XT parts for sale on eBay to fund new 1x stuff.
>
> Glad to hear that you like the Honchos!  Oh, and can you explain what a
> "clutch derailer" is?  I've looked at the differences between Shimano's 12
> speed XT RDs and neither mentions a clutch.  The only difference, as far as
> I can tell, seems to be capacity.  Am I missing something? What is a clutch?
>
>
>
> Thanks, Ryan.  Thank you for the photos.  I agree with everyone else here
> and think you should also send along a couple of the complete bike.  Wow...
> you mean a Bombadil might come up for sale?  That's going to be very
> tempting to many.  Why are you reconsidering your idea for a 1x12 Gus?
> Sounds like it would have been great -- you'd get all the benefits of a 1x
> set-up, plus the ability to run the widest tires these bikes can handle.
> Just curious...
>
>
>
> Thanks, Ed.  You know, that was the first potential solution I thought of,
> and the one which sent me down the path to discovering what in the world
> "Boost" was.  But I ended up quickly discounting it because it
> seemed(wrongly it turns out) that running a Boost crank required also
> running a Boost rear hub.  So, essentially it would move my inner chainring
> outboard by 3mm, correct?  If so, and I just learned this, I don't know
> whether it'd be enough to get the chain to clear the tire.  I just measured
> the chain/tire clearance while in big-big.  It is only 3mm.  But the big
> ring in about 6mm outboard of the inner ring.  So, if moving the ring out
> 6mm gives only 3mm of chain clearance, how much will moving the ring out
> only 3mm, I wonder?  1.5mm?  Less?  This is definitely a preferable
> solution(if it works) to shrinking the tire, so thank you for it!  But my
> one concern is the increased chainline differential.  I currently have 7mm,
> and this would make it 10mm.  Does anyone know what a sound limit is before
> getting sub-optimal shifting performance?  I'd really love to know.
>
>
> Thanks so much to everyone!  This really has been a fun education!
>
>
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> .
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Re: [RBW] Re: Kids Stuff - What child seat fits what bike?

[dgstringfield]

Hi Paul,

I would definitely recommend a front seat.  I used the iBert for the first
3 kids and for the 4th I bought the Thule Yepp Nexxt Mini.  I like them
both.  I believe the iBert is rated to hold more weight, but I liked how
the Mini attaches to the bike.  With the Mini the bike is still use able
without the seat, but with the iBert you have a metal rod sticking out and
not something I was comfortable riding around with.  Each of my kids
love/loved riding in the front seat.  I also have the Thule Ridealong rear
seat which works great, but you don't get the same connection/experience
that you do with a front seat.

As far as what bike to use, it depends on the top tube length and how high
you can mount the seat.  I currently have the Mini mounted on my Kelly
RoShamBo mountain bike since that bike has the longest top tube of all my
bikes.  I would be even happier if I had another inch or so of length.  A
quill stem helps in that you can generally mount the seat higher which also
gets it away from your knees.  Like Shoji, I recommend a handlebar like the
Albatross or Jones H-bar which will allow you to ride a bike with a much
longer top tube.  I'm definitely interested in what Rivendell comes up with.

Here is an album with pictures of the iBert in use and various other
cycling with kid pictures, but I just realized I don't have any with the
Mini.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/26987936@N07/B7b8HN

Let me know if you have any specific questions.

-Dareck
Hamden, CT

On Tue, Jul 24, 2018 at 11:50 AM Shoji Takahashi 
wrote:

> Hi Paul,
> I used Yepp Mini with both my kids, and I highly recommend it. Those were
> great rides because they were right up with me. I later had a Yepp rear
> seat, but it wasn't the same.
>
> Yepp Mini was used on my Hunqapillar and a Surly Cross Check. The only
> downside to either ride was that I had a very slight need to pedal with my
> knees out. For me, it wasn't a big deal, but I know it can be bothersome to
> some people.
>
> Why do you think long head tube would make front seat "less than ideal"? I
> think taller head tube might improve knee clearance. Also, having front
> seat stabilized steering on the Hunqapillar and Cross Check for me. It felt
> similar to putting on low rider rack+bags.
>
> FWIW: I found Yepp Mini installation was easier and nicer on threaded
> stem. I used the front seat with albatross bars, and I liked how it would
> reach around the seat.
>
> Good luck!
> shoji
>
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 11:19:55 AM UTC-4, Paul Clifton wrote:
>>
>> I know this topic comes up frequently. I've learned a lot from reading
>> previous threads, but with the impending BOSCO BEBE and an eight month old
>> who's anxious to get on a bike, I've got some decisions to make, and I'd
>> love some input.
>>
>> I'm pretty set on a front seat. It just seems like more fun. I'd love to
>> test a few seats out (front and back) before I buy anything, but I'm not
>> sure I have that option. Does anyone in the Atlanta area have a baby seat
>> or two I can test fit/test ride on a few different bikes? I'd really like
>> to test one of the Yepp models, but any seat I could try out would be
>> really helpful.
>>
>> My big question is, given my stable and the BOSCO BEBE, should I buy the
>> best seat for one of my current bikes, even if it's not the one I want, or
>> should I buy the seat I think I want, Yepp, mount it on a less than ideal
>> bike. Then shuffle the stable and the checkbook around till I get a bike
>> that works with the seat.
>>
>> I know the normal people answer is buy a seat for your current bike and
>> just ride, but I'm hoping to take lots of great rides over the next 2-3
>> years, so I can justify a dedicated bike/baby seat combo. I'm just not sure
>> what I want that to look like yet.
>>
>> Here's the bikes I've got that will work with a seat. Has anyone used a
>> front seat on any similar bikes? How'd it work out?
>>
>> 1. MTBUBBE - appears that the long head tube makes front seats less than
>> ideal. I'm not sure about the handling with an extra 20 lbs towards the
>> front.
>>
>> 2. 1984 Trek 720 - The frame is relatively light, but it rides well with
>> a load. The clamp spot for a front seat seems more reasonable, but it might
>> still be tight and the top tube is completely horizontal. I could try it
>> with riser bars instead of drops.
>>
>> 3. 1985 or so Peugeot MTB (Crazy Horse) - It's an 80s MTB. Super fun to
>> ride. No idea how the seat would fit and how it would handle. Any thoughts?
>>
>> 4. 90s Cannondale MTB - Pretty similar to the Peugeot, but nicer, newer
>> parts and a threadless stem.
>>
>> I'm not really interested in trailers right now, even though it's likely
>> that I'll use one eventually.
>>
>> Maybe a rear seat is the way to go?
>> Does anyone have any tips on how to determine whether a front seat will
>> work well on a particular bike?
>>
>> My guess is that in the end this is all pretty child-dependent, and I
>> shouldn't sink to much 

Re: [RBW] FS: Tubus Tara Front Rack plus mid-fork eyelts

[dgstringfield]

Hi Dave,

I will buy it all if you still have it. Does PayPal work for you?

Thanks,
Dareck

On Tue, Sep 1, 2015 at 12:17 AM dstein  wrote:

> I bought these July, mounted them for 2 overnighters, and took them off.
> They have a few scratches from me trying to mount them. But otherwise are
> structurally sound and very new. I have the hook attachment for the bottom,
> as well as the mid-fork eyelets mount (that is still in the package).
>
> I bought these from Bike Bag Shop for 120 (rack), 24 (eyelet) and 8
> (hook). I'll ship the rack for $90 w/ the hooks, $105 w/ the eyelets.
>
> This is the black rack
>
>- Tubus Tara Front Rack
>
>- Tubus Mid-Fork Eyelets for Tara and Ergo
>
> 
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Valve Stem eating Synergy Wheels

[dgstringfield]

I've screwed a presta nut all the way down against the base of the tube
before installing the tube so it was on the inside of the rim.  It looked
like the rim was chewing through the tube. I didn't have any further
issues.

Dareck,
Hamden, CT


On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 10:50 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Those are for 2" tires, alas.
>
> On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 8:45 AM, Ron Mc  wrote:
>
>> ok, saw that - Vittora hasn't made them for years.  But here, Michelin
>> from UK
>>
>> http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/Michelin-Aircomp-Latex-Tube-26x19-220-Presta-40mm-493346/MICHTUBM240?utm_campaign=Googlebase&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=Googlebase&geoip=US&gclid=CjwKEAjw-IOwBRD1wrTC27fSjFISJABUDZ17NnwrTDxsYQmPdtCKEkutiY23HOOyxb4bfjBJaJIY0BoCogDw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
>>
>> On Tuesday, September 22, 2015 at 9:26:48 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>> Does anyone make latex tubes for 650C or 26" X 1"-1.4" tires? I'm not
>>> particular as to few mm and happily use narrow 650C tubes in 35 mm tires.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 8:08 AM, Ron Mc  wrote:
>>>
 If you don't mind pumping at least every week, Challenge cross latex
 tubes can open your eyes even further.  They make a noticeable difference
 in ride (and speed), though sometimes on a whoopteedoo will make you feel
 like a bouncing ball . I use Schwalbe for backup - I buy  tubes en masse
 from wiggle - load up a $50 cart to get free shipping and worry about tubes
 again next year.

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>
>
>
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>
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