Re: [RBW] Re: Practical differences - SON vs Shimano Dyno hub?

[Tom Harrop]

>
>
>> I've got a SON Klassik and a Shimano DH-3N70 dynohub and I find them both 
good. The SON lives on my Bombadil (touring, commuting, transport) and the 
Shimano lives on a beater / city / winter bike. The Schmidt seems "nicer" 
but I would not swear that I can tell the difference when riding. 
Basically, I would get another Schmidt for a nice bike, or another Shimano 
for a beater / city bike. What's the logic behind that? Dunno!

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[RBW] Moselle Valley ride

[Tom Harrop]

Over a couple of days last week Cat and I rode our Riv bikes (my 68 cm 
Bombadil and her 54 cm Homer) along part of the Moselle Valley bike path 
(Moselradweg) in Rheinland-Pfalz near the border between Germany and 
Luxembourg. We rode about 200 Km from Trier to Koblenz over 2.5 days plus a 
side trip or two.

The Moselle Valley is a wine growing area and the weather was quite warm. 
These factors encouraged us to make frequent refreshment stops, which 
affected our overall speed somewhat, but it was definitely a 
go-slow-and-enjoy type of trip. We particularly liked the cold, dry 
Rieslings made from local grapes. In many cases the wineries had gardens or 
terraces right on the bike path, which are obviously targeted at tourists, 
but were enjoyable nonetheless.

It was a very easy and relaxing ride—I can't remember any hills except 
where we left the path to ride up into the towns along the sides of the 
valley—in fact, the most highly represented demographic was probably 
retirees cruising from town to town on their E-bikes. So the bikes weren't 
put to any strenuous tests, but they acquitted themselves impeccably apart 
from a small issue with my Phil Wood hub that I knew about beforehand. The 
Bombadil carried my large self and most of the luggage without a 
problem—two panniers, a handlebar bag and a large SaddleSack. I can't say I 
notice any detrimental handling effects when it's fully loaded, even with 
(gasp) a front load—it's smooth, stable and steers easily no matter what. 
One definitely appreciates the 60 mm tyres when loaded (I mean the bike, 
not myself).

We had thought about turning right along the Rhein and continuing for a 
couple more days from Koblenz to Mainz, but the weather turned nasty so we 
bailed. We're only an hour's train ride away so we can do that another time.

Click here for a photo or two on Cat's flickr 
account. 
I'm afraid we didn't really stop to pose the bikes along the way but there 
are a couple of snaps taken during water breaks, but most are scenic shots 
so you'll have to pick out the bike ones!

Tom
Cologne, Germany.

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[RBW] Re: VO Touring Hub vs XT?

[Tom Harrop]

I've also been looking at hubs recently and got pretty confused by several 
comments I came across about old vs. new XT vs. LX hubs, for example the 
switch to aluminium axles.

Say you just wanted the toughest, most durable current-generation Shimano 
hub and didn't care at all about weight. Is LX the best choice? Is XT's 
selling point compared to LX only lower weight?

Tom
Germany

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[RBW] Re: Recommendations for Saddle Bag--mostly for books

[Tom Harrop]

Jim,

I use a bungee ball on the bottom of my large SaddleSack. The cord loops 
through the leather on the bottom of the bag and around the top of the 
rack. It holds nice and secure. It's not exactly quick release, but it's 
quickER release... personally I find it more time-consuming (we're talking 
seconds here) but less irritating than the Ortlieb pannier system. I use my 
SaddleSack for commuting and take the bag off whenever I leave the bike, 
including for quick stops at the grocery store on the way home. It may be 
too much of a fiddle for some people though.

Before I thought of the bungee ball I was using a John's Irish strap. That 
was also OK, but it's more difficult to feed the strap through the buckle 
than it is to engage a bungee ball, so the bungee ball was a step in the 
right direction. It was further improved when I started using a 
half-cut-off zip tie to feed the bungee cord through the rack. I'm not 
explaining this very well—be happy to post a photo if it helps.

Tom
Germany

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Re: [RBW] VO Touring Hub vs XT?

[Tom Harrop]

Tony,

There seems to be a silver DH-3N80 with 36 holes available here (in 
Germany). There's also an XT dynamo hub (Silver, aluminium axle, 36 holes. 
DH-T780.) but I don't know how it compares to Shimano's other dynohubs.

These pages are in German, I'm afraid:

DH-3N72

DH-3N80

DH-T780

I can't see any mounting points for disc brakes on any of the photos, and 
they all say they're designed for rim brakes (Bremssystem: Felge). You 
might be able to use those product numbers to find websites in English 
where the hubs are sold, but if not Google translate will do a job for you. 
Just let me know if you need any help with the DE pages!

Tom

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[RBW] Re: SimpleOne Rohloff Conversion

[Tom Harrop]

That's great.

Did bending the rear triangle from 120 mm to 135 mm spacing on such a nice 
bike make you anxious at all?

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[RBW] Re: Used Bike Pricing - General - Mindless.. Dribble

[Tom Harrop]

Kelly,

I wondered what you'd done with your 68 cm Atlantis. If I had one of those 
I certainly wouldn't be selling it! I would leave the Bomba built up as the 
touring/commuting bike it is now and the Atlantis would be a dedicated 
mountain bike. (In other words, you could/should keep both...)

It's definitely a much smaller market for tall people. My PBH is 100 cm and 
I like my bars at least saddle height or higher. Other than Riv, there are 
no non-custom bikes where this is possible—even manufacturers that make 
"XXL" frames like Surly ship them with forks that have short steerer tubes, 
which in threadless land means you've got no hope of getting the bars high 
enough.

Tom

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rack under load; Toplight mounted; Re-covered Flite

[Tom Harrop]

I always thought the problem with Patrick's photos was the electrons 
getting flipped as they crossed the equator to reach me in Australia, but 
I'm perplexed to report that the upsidedownedness persists even here in 
Europe...

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rack under load; Toplight mounted; Re-covered Flite

[Tom Harrop]

If it helps... on Google Chrome on my Mac OS computer the thumbnails in 
your original post were upside down. When clicked, the full-size images 
were right-side-up.

In your most recent post, the first two thumbnails and full-size images are 
right-side-up, but the thumbnail AND full-size image for "#3 WITH RACK" are 
both upside down.

Tom

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[RBW] Re: FS: BIG (71cm) A. Homer Hilsen DeLuxe build $3750

[Tom Harrop]

Wow, that is an extremely nice bike. I presume it will sell quickly, but if 
it doesn't and your friend decides to part it out, could you post again? I 
would be interested in the frame and fork.

Tom
Germany.

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[RBW] Re: Anybody put a Large Saddlesack on top of Sackville Panniers?

[Tom Harrop]

Hi Kip,

I haven't tried that specific combo, but I have used Ortlieb panniers on a 
Tubus rear rack, with my large SaddleSack sitting on top. It worked fine in 
terms of everything being securely attached etc., but there was zero access 
to the contents of the panniers without removing the SaddleSack, so it was 
a matter of loading the panniers, attaching them to the bike, then 
attaching the SaddleSack.

>From memory it was possible, if a bit fiddly, to attach or remove the 
panniers with the SaddleSack already on the rack, but I guess that wouldn't 
work with Riv-style panniers.

Sounds like you've got some great trips planned, don't forget to post some 
photos!

Tom
Germany.

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[RBW] '80s Peugeot built for off road riding, limited Riv content

[Tom Harrop]

Hi list,

Firstly an apology for the limited Rivendell content, but maybe some 
members will be interested anyway.

I've been thinking about getting another Riv to use as a specific MTB / 
off-road bike. I think a 64 cm Sam would be just about big enough for me 
and give me enough tyre clearance for the sort of riding I want to 
do—nothing outrageous, just unpaved roads and singletrack. I contacted Riv 
and was told that maybe a 64 cm Sam would be a little too small, and if I 
wanted a specific off-road machine I should think about a second 68 cm 
Bombadil. That's a little out of my price range for the foreseeable 
future... (end of Riv content).

I coincidentally found a 66 cm Peugeot frame for sale locally. When I got 
it home I was surprised to find it had room for 40 mm tyres, so I decided 
to build it up as a pseudo-MTB to test my Sam Hillborne theory. From my 
research it's an early '80s PX-8, which was an entry-level touring bike—no 
fancy tubeset or anything. I think the head and seat angles are 71° or 
thereabouts and it has long-ish chainstays so it's not too unlike a Sam.

I used a dirt-drop stem to get the bars nice 'n' high, which worked out 
well for me because I prefer a short reach. Other than that it didn't turn 
out to be a very Riv-ish build. I had planned a 1×7 drivetrain but because 
of a quirk of the frame, using a derailer would have cost me a lot of tyre 
clearance at the chainstay, so I got a Nexus IGH instead.

I'm quite pleased with the Clément MSO tyres (although I'm no connoisseur). 
They roll nicely on pavement, maybe even as nicely as the 60 mm Big Apples 
on my Bombadil, and they have been grippy enough for the mud I've been 
through. Time will tell if 40 mm tyres are enough for my large self on an 
off-road bike. I'm planning to take it down to the Black Forest in a week 
or two for some proper off-road riding, with hills.

Here's a photo or two of the build if anyone's 
interested
.

Hope everyone has a nice Sunday.

Tom
Cologne, Germany

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[RBW] Re: '80s Peugeot built for off road riding, limited Riv content

[Tom Harrop]

Thanks for the comments.

I was also hesitant to spread the dropouts that far but there wasn't much 
to lose. My main concern was losing the brake bridge, so I used tie-down 
straps to support that and the chainstay bridge. I have no idea whether 
there is any practical effect to that, though. Luckily the frame alignment 
was OK after bending.

I was surprised at how easy the wheelbuild was. Of course it wasn't a 
particularly tricky build—heavy MTB rim and not a lot of dish required so 
there wasn't a lot to go wrong. I did it without a truing stand and it was 
true enough, but the dish was way off, so I did it again with the proper 
tools. Everything's good now.

Patrick, you're right of course. The Bombadil would be great as an off-road 
bike. But it's my commuter and tourer and I don't want to sacrifice the 
supreme comfort of its current set up, which includes some aspects that 
don't work so well off-road, like Alba bars with bar end shifters (make 
tight turns difficult) and long fenders with mudflaps (not a lot of ground 
clearance, and mud jams up fenders).

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[RBW] Re: '80s Peugeot built for off road riding, limited Riv content

[Tom Harrop]

I'm pretty sure Rigida rims are made in China. They're cheap here, but 
theirs were also the only rims I could find that are wide, silver and have 
36 holes and aren't disc-specific. Mavic rims are about 1.5–2 times the 
price, and Velocity rims are only available in very few places and are far 
more expensive.

The gearing is certainly low (roughly equivalent to a 30t ring with a 12–34 
cassette?) but I think it will be about right for hills. 7 and 8 are nice 
cruising gears on flat pavement. I'll post again after I've been on some 
longer off-road rides. One thing I noticed, having never ridden an IGH bike 
before, is that the drag from the hub is quite apparent in the bottom 4 
gears, but not noticeable in the top 4.

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB 68cm (Rivendell only)

[Tom Harrop]

I've also been keeping an eye out for a 68 cm Atlantis. Don't think there 
are all that many out there, unfortunately.

Enjoy the QB!

Tom

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB 68cm (Rivendell only)

[Tom Harrop]

Deal! I should probably wait patiently at the back of the queue because I 
already have a 68 cm Bombadil...

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[RBW] Re: wtb: Rivendell Bombadil ~ 56cm ~ diagatube?

[Tom Harrop]

But if you did that, how would it be different from a Hunq? In-between frame 
size?

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[RBW] Re: 'Nother Big 'Un on The Bay

[Tom Harrop]

Ahhh I want that frame. SH orange, canti-posts. Perfect.

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Re: [RBW] Re: 'Nother Big 'Un on The Bay

[Tom Harrop]

I'd be all over it if it was just the frame. Shipping & taxes to Germany are 
far too expensive for a whole bike (you pay VAT on the shipping price, too).

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Re: [RBW] Re: 'Nother Big 'Un on The Bay

[Tom Harrop]

That would indeed be great, but it's a big ask.

I enquired on eBay about parting it out, but at that price I expect he'll get a 
buyer for the whole bike before the weekend's out. There were at least two 
bidders on the original listing. We'll see, though! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: 'Nother Big 'Un on The Bay

[Tom Harrop]

Well, it's still listed for sale and the seller has told me he doesn't want 
to part it out. I don't expect it to happen but I thought it was worth 
checking if anyone wants some parts for a drop-bar build and could team up 
as Bill suggested.

The seller hasn't specified most of the parts on the bike, the following 
lists are from what I could make out from the photos. I couldn't identify 
the items I've listed with a question mark. I am flexible on almost 
everything except the wheels and the bars.

Parts I don't want:

Bars, stem and brake levers (?)
Wheelset (Velocity Synergy 36h) incl. cassette. Unknown hubs.
Pasela TourGuard Kevlar tyres
Nitto M12 rack
Sugino Crankset
Pedals (?)
Derailers (?)
Brooks Saddle (anyone know what model that is? It says "pre-softened", so 
maybe a Team Pro?)

Parts I could take or leave:

Bar-end shifters (?)
Seatpost (?)
Bottom Bracket (?)
Shimano canti brakes (?)
Bottle cages (?)

If anyone's interested in the list of parts above to build up a bike and 
not put off by the exceedingly complicated arrangement, send me a direct 
email and we can work out a way to split up the purchase price fairly. 
Obviously I would do as much of the running around as was possible from my 
end, e.g. dealing with the seller and working out what to put on the 
customs form. Hopefully the seller has the original invoice so we can work 
out the unknown parts...!

Tom
Cologne, Germany

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Re: [RBW] Re: 'Nother Big 'Un on The Bay

[Tom Harrop]

Thanks Jeff, good find—but it's sold now. Ah well, next time.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Soma Grand Randonnee, from a Rivendell perspective

[Tom Harrop]

Jim,

I'm late to this, but as a data point: I have a PBH of 100 cm I would not 
expect to get the bars anywhere near high enough with that Soma frame and a 
Tallux stem. High enough for me means at least saddle height or higher. To 
illustrate: I have a 66 cm Peugeot frame with a level top tube. On that 
bike I have a 100 mm Dirt Drop stem (which is taller than the Tallux with 
225 mm of quill) and bars with ~40 mm of rise (i.e. not drops) and the 
grips are only a little above saddle height. I'd want them even higher if 
they were drop bars. I know ST angle and HT extension could make things 
different but hopefully it gives you an idea, at least.

Tom

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Re: [RBW] Re: Soma Grand Randonnee, from a Rivendell perspective

[Tom Harrop]

Guys,

Sorry to stick my oar in but it seems to me that the question is how the 
seat tube (frame size) is measured.

If it's measured all the way to the top of the seat tube where the seatpost 
clamp is, then the HT extension will be (roughly!!!) cancelled out by the 
seat tube extension, and the bike will fit (roughly) like it's got a level 
top tube.

On the other hand if it's measured only to where the top tube joins the 
seat tube, then the head tube extension will add some handlebar height with 
respect to the stated frame size (i.e. it will fit like it had a slightly 
up-sloping top tube).

Right?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Any Rivsters here commute more than 10 miles one-way? Cold weather tips?

[Tom Harrop]

As someone from Australia (hot) commuting in Germany (cold) I definitely 
qualify as a wimp. Must find some of those chopper gloves, they look the 
business!

Tom

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Re: [RBW] Re: Large SaddleSack Load and Anchor Questions

[Tom Harrop]

>From the 
Archives: 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/DWJHrzq02O0/wreDnVqV1QgJ

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[RBW] Re: Ultra-cheap 65cm Redwood on the 'bay

[Tom Harrop]

Cool, too small for me though. The Redwood is from before the long reach 
Tektro brake era of Rivs, so it would have limited tyre clearance (by 
current Riv standards), right?

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[RBW] Re: FS: 68cm Quickbeam --Just a reminder

[Tom Harrop]

Sorry about the thread hijack, but are there other large persons' bikes 
currently for sale on the list, Ryan? Can you point me in the right 
direction? I'm hopefully-soon-to-be-in-the-market (not for a one-speed, 
sorry Kelly) but I haven't seen any listed recently...

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Re: [RBW] Tire swapping Saturday

[Tom Harrop]

Nice one, Bill. So is your Hillborne maxed out at 43 mm or is there room 
for more tyre?

Tom
Germany

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[RBW] Re: rear rack mounting question

[Tom Harrop]

Tried to post before but I think google ate it, sorry if this comes through 
twice.

I had to bend the struts in order to avoid the same issue when I installed 
a Tubus rack on a 54 cm AHH with Silver calipers. Riv's youtube site has a 
video showing you how to do it: hold the struts in a vice and use a mallet. 
I don't know if this significantly weakens the struts but it's held fine 
for over two years.

Good luck with it,

Tom
Germany.

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Prototype on Blug?

[Tom Harrop]

Yes please! It looks like a long Bombadil to me. Same fork crown as my 
Bombadil, canti/v-brake posts, room for big tyres. Wonder what sizes 
they'll offer...?

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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Tom Harrop]

Hi Zack,

I was having problems which chain skipping and ghost shifting, which were 
solved when I switched from 9 to 8 speed. However, I think the spacing on a 
7 speed cassette is the same as on an 8 speed (someone correct me if I'm 
confused). If that's true I don't know if changing between the two will 
help with shifting at all...?

Tom

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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

[Tom Harrop]

Oops! Thanks Steve.

On Tuesday, 15 April 2014 21:24:54 UTC+2, Steve Palincsar wrote:
 

> The spacing between 7 and 8 is NOT identical.
>  

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[RBW] WTB: large Riv frame w/ tyre clearance for trail riding, e.g. 68 cm Atlantis

[Tom Harrop]

Hi list,

It's (literally and figuratively) a tall ask, but I'm wondering if anyone 
has a really large Riv frame and fork that they would like to sell or have 
been thinking about selling. I'm looking for a bike for trail use so I'd 
like Sam Hillborne tyre clearances and larger. V-brake/canti posts are also 
desirable but not a strict requirement. I have a PBH of 100 cm so I need 
the largest frame sizes made by Riv, e.g.:

68 cm Atlantis
68/64 cm Bombadil
64 cm Sam Hillborne

If anyone sees something along these lines on Craigslist/eBay I'd also love 
to hear about it.

Just to add a layer of complexity, I'm in Europe so the theoretical seller 
would have to be prepared to ship (obviously at my cost). This makes it 
impractical for me to buy a complete bike, because the larger box required 
if wheels are included causes shipping prices to skyrocket.

By the way, I'm not out to undercut Riv on pricing or shopping for 
bargains. I'd like to have something built up to ride this summer and 
waiting for a new frame would make that pretty unlikely. If I don't hear 
about anything for sale on the list, I plan to order a new 64 cm Sam from 
RBWHQ (assuming they still make them).

Thanks for reading,

Tom
Germany

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[RBW] Re: WTB: large Riv frame w/ tyre clearance for trail riding, e.g. 68 cm Atlantis

[Tom Harrop]

Thanks for the replies. I would also be happy with a massive Hilsen, but it 
doesn't seem as sensible to get a 67 cm when Riv sells 72 cm frames 
(although I haven't worked out the max handlebar height on the 67 cm... 
maybe it's taller than a 64 cm Sam?). However I will keep an eye on those 
auctions and consider making contact if the complete bikes don't sell.

Tom

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[RBW] SKF Bottom Bracket for Homer Hilsen

[Tom Harrop]

We used a 107 mm SKF for a Sugino triple on the better half's AHH. Crank clears 
the chainstay fine. Would a chainline measurement be helpful?

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[RBW] FS: Olive green Sackville BarSack + Nitto BarSack Rack

[Tom Harrop]

Hi list,

I've had this handlebar rack  and 
bag  combo for a couple of 
years and only used it once or twice, so it's time to find it a new home. I 
would say the condition is 'like new' except for a small scuff mark on the 
front of the bag. I also replaced the M8 bolts with wingnuts for easier on 
and off. Happy to send photos to interested parties.

I looked up the invoice, and I paid $245 for the pair. I'm in Germany but 
I'm happy to ship it pretty much anywhere. Shipping from DE to the US with 
DHL (small packet, no insurance, probably one week to ten days in transit) 
is about €15, so how about PayPal US$150 shipped? If that seems 
unreasonable go ahead and make an offer.

Please reply offline if interested.

Tom
Germany.

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Re: [RBW] FS: Olive green Sackville BarSack + Nitto BarSack Rack

[Tom Harrop]

Oh crap! I got a couple of replies off list, but I somehow missed these 
posts. My apologies, I wasn't ignoring you on purpose. Acually I thought I 
ticked the "email updates to me" button, as well.

Bruce, I have two people interested but if they both fall through I'll get 
in touch.

Sorry again.

Tom

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Re: [RBW] FS: Olive green Sackville BarSack + Nitto BarSack Rack

[Tom Harrop]

Firstly, this is now sold. Thanks for the interest.

I was intending for people use the 'Reply to author' function, but I've 
personally found that to be extremely unreliable so I can understand why 
you wouldn't. Anyway, if I'd seen that you'd been trying to get in touch I 
would have emailed you, but I didn't notice this thread when it came back 
to the top of the list (and hence didn't realise anyone had replied). My 
fault, I'll pay more attention next time!

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[RBW] Re: Two more builds

[Tom Harrop]

Cool bikes, guys. Bill, is the saddle on the Schwinn really that red, or is 
it just the light?

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[RBW] Re: Two more builds

[Tom Harrop]

Yeah, it looks great. I didn't even know a red B17 was a thing! Too bad, my 
better half has made it clear that I'm only allowed three saddles, although 
I think that was intended to stop me buying more bikes...

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[RBW] Re: What is the advantage of expensive hubs?

[Tom Harrop]

Hi Jim & others,

Thought I'd share my experience. I'm not planning to buy boutique hubs 
again, mainly because service is difficult to come by outside the US. I had 
a Phil Wood hub go bad within about 3–6 months (failed ratchet ring). The 
tools for replacing the ratchet ring are apparently not available to bike 
shops, so only Phil Wood HQ could fix it. The hub was out of warranty when 
I finally contacted them (it took me ages to work out the problem was 
coming from the hub). They told me that I should've been servicing it 
regularly, and quoted $165 plus shipping from Australia to the US and back.

Long story short, after I asked again they agreed to look at the hub, and 
after I returned it to them they sent me a new hub for free. The bike was 
out of action for several weeks while the hub was being shipped back and 
forth but I really appreciated that they gave me a new hub when they 
weren't obliged to.

Unfortunately, the new hub is now starting to show the same symptoms as the 
old one. I guess it's just bad luck—they're really nice hubs and I know 
most people have decades of trouble-free service from them, but I'll 
eventually just replace it with a Shimano LX or XT or something rather than 
go through the whole procedure of returning it again.

Tom

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[RBW] Another Clementine build

[Tom Harrop]

Hi all,

Well it took a while, but I finally got my wife's Clementine finished just 
after Christmas, and she finally got around to photographing it a couple of 
weeks ago!

https://flic.kr/s/aHskAkjmbt

Rivendell didn't fool us with their "budget bike" hyperbole–we went with a 
fancy build...

If anyone's wondering, it's the 52 cm frame with 650b tyres. The Gilles 
Berthoud 60x700C fenders were a nice fit after some bending. I'm also happy 
with the way the Nitto Campee front rack (700C version) worked out with the 
fat 650b tyres. I couldn't mount it on my Bombadil with 60x622 mm Big 
Apples.

The features Riv packed into this frame are amazing, I just wish they made 
a 64 + cm size for me.

Tom

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[RBW] Re: Another Clementine build

[Tom Harrop]

Thanks for the comments!

Yeah, I'm aware of the XL Clem H... problem is I have two bombadils so there's 
no justification for it. A gigantic step-through would be something else 
entirely!

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[RBW] Has anyone replaced the bearings on a Phil Wood cassette hub?

[Tom Harrop]

Hi all,

This could be a silly question, but it's the internet so I'll ask anyway.

I'm planning to change the bearings in my Phil Wood "touring" cassette hub. 
I can't see instructions for replacing the bearings in that model on their 
website. There is a PDF for their FSA hubs, which are different to the 
cassette hubs.

There is another PDF explaining servicing the ratchet mechanism, but it 
doesn't say anything about bearing replacement: 
http://www.philwood.com/philpdfs/cassette_hub_instructions_022015.pdf

My questions:

   1. how do I get the bearings out of the hub shell and freehub?
   2. (the silly one) I would expect the hub to contain two bearings, but 
   in that PDF, it looks like there are three: one on the drive side of the 
   hub shell (labelled D in the PDF linked above), one in the freehub body 
   (labelled M), and one on the left side of the hub shell (not in the 
   diagram, but I know it's there because I can see it). Are there really 
   three bearings? Should I replace them all?

If anyone wants context, the hub is about 3 years old and seems to be 
making noises. I am chasing a squeak that happens once every time the rear 
wheel goes round, but only when I'm on the bike with my weight on the 
saddle. I checked for loose spokes and they're all fine. The tyre isn't 
rubbing, so hub bearing is my next guess!

Thanks for reading,

Tom

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[RBW] Re: Has anyone replaced the bearings on a Phil Wood cassette hub?

[Tom Harrop]

Thanks Mark. Hmm, you're probably right about looking elsewhere, but there 
are an assortment of squeaks, clicks and clunks coming from the area.

By the way, was it the ratchet ring that your hub went back to Phil for?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Has anyone replaced the bearings on a Phil Wood cassette hub?

[Tom Harrop]

Interesting, my hub had to be replaced for the same reason after a couple 
of years. I wonder if it happens because the end caps unscrew in use. I see 
they've changed the torque recommendation from 12 Nm to 20 Nm...

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[RBW] Re: Mounting Supernova E3

[Tom Harrop]

I've mounted them on both a Mark's rack and a Nitto mini-front. My methods 
were a bit kludgey and the aesthetics may displease the rando crowd but I 
can tell you they work fine.

For the mini-front I bolted the Supernova multimount to the hole in the 
front tab of the rack. That gives a great light position and I don't think 
water spray has been a problem because I have the long Berthoud fenders. 
It's also protected from bumps by the tyre. Photo 
here. 
The downside is that it's highly visible when the bike is parked and I'm a 
bit worried it will get lifted.

On the Mark's I made a little mount by bending some stainless steel. It 
worked out a quite similar shape to the mount VO 
sells
 but 
obviously heavier (maybe stronger too?). If I'd known about the VO mount 
before I made it I probably would've just bought one of them. I attached 
the mount to the right hand rack stay by using a spare daruma bolt, or you 
can piggy-back it where the stay attaches to the rack (like in this 
photo). 
In this case the light is less visible and better protected under the 
basket, but you have to put up with a bit of tyre shadow.

Good luck, I'd be interested to see some photos when you're done!

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[RBW] Re: Wide profile canti brake recs

[Tom Harrop]

So what's the thinking on the cause of brake chatter? I have CR720s with 
Kool Stop dual compound my 68 cm Bombadil and I get some pretty ferocious 
chatter, particularly when it's wet. When the front brake doesn't chatter, 
it squeals!

Is it because of the super-long fork blades? Or have I done something wrong 
setting them up?

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[RBW] Re: Big Apple vs. Supreme

[Tom Harrop]

I've got 50 mm Supremes (46 mm on Dyad rims). Nothing wrong with them, but 
I think there's enough room for bigger, so I'm really really tempted to try 
to squeeze 60 mm BAs under the fenders...

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[RBW] Re: Big Apple vs. Supreme

[Tom Harrop]

I've got 50 mm Supremes (46 mm on Dyad rims). Nothing wrong with them, but 
I think there's enough room for bigger, so I'm really really tempted to try 
to squeeze 60 mm BAs under the fenders...

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[RBW] Re: Big Apple vs. Supreme

[Tom Harrop]

I've got 50 mm Supremes (46 mm on Dyad rims). Nothing wrong with them, but 
I think there's enough room for bigger, so I'm really really tempted to try 
to squeeze 60 mm BAs under the fenders...

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[RBW] Re: SKS Front Strut

[Tom Harrop]

Nice. What's the hardware?

If the strut and rack won't play together, you could always mount the 
fender directly to the rack...

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[RBW] Re: Saddlebags for carrying a laptop?

[Tom Harrop]

I do it lots. I carry a 15″ MBP in a Large SaddleSack in one of these 
Crumpler 
sleeves
.

My girlfriend carries her 15″ MBP in a Medium SaddleSack in one of these Ron 
D. Swan 
sleeves.
 
The sleeve only just fits flat in the bottom of the SaddleSack.

In case it's not clear the laptop sits in the sleeve on the bottom of the 
SaddleSack, then you pile your other stuff on top. I've been doing it twice 
a day for well over a year now with no problems. I far prefer having it sit 
flat on the rack in a saddle bag to my previous arrangement, which was to 
carry it in an Ortlieb pannier where it was able to bounce around 
vertically and laterally (if you see what I mean).

I take the SaddleSack off when I park my bike and carry it into my office. 
It takes about 10 seconds to get it off and maybe 30 to put back on again. 
Ortliebs may be quicker but lose out big time on shape and size to the 
SaddleSacks, in my humble IMHO.

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[RBW] Re: Saddlebags for carrying a laptop?

[Tom Harrop]

Oops, I meant the 15″ Crumpler 
sleeve.
 
But I'm confident the 17″ would fit in a large SaddleSack...

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[RBW] Re: tektro cr720 installation advice

[Tom Harrop]

Hmm, I have to admit I'm not sold on CR720s either. Will the V-brakes discussed 
above clear 60 mm tyres, a fat fender and a front rack? I'd consider switching 
if so.

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[RBW] Re: ISO 52cm Bomadil

[Tom Harrop]

I presume you've seen this, but just in case you haven't: Riv have one as a 
web special . It's about 30% 
full price in my estimation. Parallel TT and all..l

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[RBW] Re: ISO 52cm Bomadil

[Tom Harrop]

Sorry, 30% OFF full price. D'uh.

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[RBW] Re: BarSack and Rack (F-15) tips

[Tom Harrop]

I have independently arrived at the M8-wingnut solution. The problem I 
found with removing the 'fork' section of the rack is that the handlebar 
clamps move slightly and make it a fiddle to re-mount.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: BarSack and Rack (F-15) tips

[Tom Harrop]

Haha, that's my exact setup! I must have bad karma

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[RBW] Re: Are you a Giant??

[Tom Harrop]

Standard I think. They came on my 68 cm Bombadil. They look great on a 
built up bike, I find.

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: Paul Touring Canti pair or Neo-retro /Touring Canti combo (Silver)

[Tom Harrop]

In my Google Groups view, at the top right corner of each message, there's 
a "Post reply" button. To the right of that, is a drop-down menu, which 
contains "Reply to author"...

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[RBW] Suitable V-brake arm length for newer, longer Bombadil fork

[Tom Harrop]

Hi everyone,

I got fed up of the CR-720s on my Bombadil (late 2011, with the new fork 
crown with extra clearance and long fork blades), so I decided to try 
V-brakes instead. I was concerned that the Nitto Mini rack would interfere 
with the cable at the fork crown. I thought I'd post here in case anyone is 
searching in The Future: The cable for Shimano V-brakes with 107 mm arms 
passes *under* the hole in the fork crown, and therefore coexists in 
harmony with the rack strut.

Picture here .

Enjoy the rest of your weekends,

Tom, in rainy Germany.

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Re: [RBW] Re: New (to me) Bombadil build

[Tom Harrop]

Really like the big bullmoose bars. Great build.

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Re: [RBW] Re: SimpleQuickOneBeam Project - Blue Sky Features - What would you like to see?

[Tom Harrop]

Hmm, "SimpleQuickOne"... some buyers may not get what they expect!

(Sorry, couldn't resist.)

Tom

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[RBW] 3 bikes including a 68 cm Quickbeam on eBay (not mine)

[Tom Harrop]

Hello all,

No personal connection, but the link to this eBay 
auctionfor
 three bikes, including a 68 cm QB, was posted to the Large Bicycles 
list. Sorry if this is a duplicate.

Hope everyone has a nice break, if you're having one.

Tom

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Re: [RBW] 3 bikes including a 68 cm Quickbeam on eBay (not mine)

[Tom Harrop]

Jim,

'Large BIcycles' is another Google 
group: https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!forum/large-bicycles

Tom

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[RBW] Re: Albas & Thumbies setup

[Tom Harrop]

I've been thinking about trying reverse levers for a while now, but I don't 
want to give up the extreme convenience of bar-end shifters. Has anyone 
tried using reverse brake levers and mounting the thumbies right at the 
very ends of the bars, so that the shift levers can be positioned like 
bar-ends?

Tom
Germany

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[RBW] Re: New bike siting: Cheviut/Cheviot/Chevrolet?

[Tom Harrop]

Could it be the new tall persons' Riv with the special seat cluster that 
was in the lug-making–movie? I wouldn't complain...!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Albas & Thumbies setup

[Tom Harrop]

Yep, but I wonder if anyone's tried mounting thumbies right at the ends of 
the bar to have the shift levers in roughly the same position as if they 
were bar end shifters.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Albas & Thumbies setup

[Tom Harrop]

Found it by googling. This is what I 
meant! 
Sorry about the multiple posts.

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[RBW] Re: Albatross V-brake levers

[Tom Harrop]

If you're after cheaper ones, there are also the Tektro 
levers
 that 
Riv used to sell which can be switched between long- and short-pull. If I 
was buying new ones I'd probably try the super-cheap Shimano Deore levers 
(BL-T611). I've got the Tektro levers on my Bombadil with V-brakes and 
they're fine, but the cheap Shimano levers on my other bike feel slightly 
nicer to me, although this could be caused by other factors e.g. cables, 
housing, brakes.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Schwalbe 650B/27.5 Thunder Burt Review

[Tom Harrop]

Hmm, they look like fun. 49 mm you say? I wonder if they'd fit without 
fenders on a Hillborne...

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne as tourer

[Tom Harrop]

Grant or Dave sez in this Blug post "Bar exit height should be listed on 
every bike’s geometry charts". Is this information (or frame stack) 
available somewhere for Rivs? It's not in the Geometry google-doc. I'm not 
trying to be a smarty pants here, this would be useful for me because I 
want to compare the max bar height between a 68 cm Bombadil and a 64 cm 
Sam...

Thanks,

Tom

Cold, windy Germany

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne as tourer

[Tom Harrop]

Bill, that is exactly what I wanted to know, thanks!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike locks ?

[Tom Harrop]

Can I ask this question a different way...? Has anyone on here had a riv or 
similar stolen whilst locked TO something, and if so what sort of lock were 
you using and how was it defeated?

I have always used the heaviest ABUS D-lock I can find but I've recently 
switched to a one of their "Bordo" folding locks, purely because the holder 
attaches to bottle cage eyelets.

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[RBW] Re: Paul brakes, redux - Motolite clearance?

[Tom Harrop]

Hi Jay,

I use V-brakes with 60 mm tyres and fenders (and a front rack). It works 
great. Mine are Shimano BR-T780, which have 107 mm arms. Motolites are 104 
mm so it *should* work with 50 mm tyres—depending on canti stud and fender 
placement, I guess. But that's just, like, my opinion.

Tom

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[RBW] Re: Paul brakes, redux - Motolite clearance?

[Tom Harrop]

PS the 104 mm measurement came from Paul Components after I asked them for 
it, I don't own a pair to measure myself. There's also a database of arm 
lengths here: http://www.gravelbike.com/?p=3298

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Re: [RBW] Recommend all silver triple FD for Bleriot build please.

[Tom Harrop]

I find FDs a mild pain. I guess there are quite a few variables. I use the 
Sugino triple from Riv and an 8-speed cassette (i.e. wider chain), with a 
107 mm BB so I have a narrow-ish front chainline. I initially used that 
Microshift FD that Riv used to sell (R538?) but the cage would bump into 
the fender before I got into the small ring. To add to that, if I did ever 
get into the small ring the cable would get caught on the rivet for the 
lower pivot on the derailer, making the upshift difficult (accompanied by a 
loud PING when the cable released). Nasty!

I swapped it for a Shimano XT which has a narrower cage and it shifts into 
the bottom ring just fine. However, it being a mountain bike derailer and 
my chainline being narrow I can't completely eliminate chain rub in the 
bottom gear even with the lower limit screw completely removed, and because 
of the narrower cage I have to trim a lot more often in all three rings. 
Irritating, but at least it's only a problem when one sits and thinks about 
it, it obviously doesn't prevent the full enjoyment of my bicycle.

Ha, I guess this is quite unhelpful as a recommendation, but it is nice to 
vent. So much hassle for a part that can be replaced by a stick!

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Re: [RBW] Recommend all silver triple FD for Bleriot build please.

[Tom Harrop]

Right, that makes sense—thanks for the info. I guess I'll tough it out, 
certainly not gonna remove an SKF BB just to avoid chain rub in the very 
lowest gear, which I don't use very often...

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Re: [RBW] Re: More details about the medium Sackville saddle bag

[Tom Harrop]

The large and medium Sackville in my household both attach in the same way (to 
saddle and rear rack).

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[RBW] Re: These Cardboard Cargo Carriers Fold Together In Seconds, So Cyclists Can Carry Groceries

[Tom Harrop]

I reckon that's a decent idea for the parts of the EU where you don't get free 
shopping bags at the supermarket (not sure how it works in the US). Not earth 
shattering for me personally because I'm happy taking my enormous saddlesack 
into the shop, but if they were available at the checkout for a buck or so I 
think people would use them.

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[RBW] New-to-me 64 cm Bomba MTB build

[Tom Harrop]

Hi all,

I finally got around to taking some photos of my 64 cm Bomba mountain bike 
build. I bought the frame second hand from list member and fellow tall 
person z-man a few months ago. With an international move, finding an 
apartment and starting a new job it took me about three months to build it 
up, and after that I'm afraid I didn't stop to take photos until after I 
had been for a few rides, so it's not exactly pristine!

https://flic.kr/s/aHsk3Y4Pdz

It's a pretty standard Riv-ish build with a couple of things that people 
might find interesting:

   - 36h SP dynamo front and LX rear with the widest silver, rim-brake 
   compatible 622 rims I could find (Ryde Big Bull 
   ).
   - Claris rear derailer in the short cage version. With a 12–32 cassette 
   and 35 and 25 tooth 'Silver' rings it easily wraps enough chain in the 
   silly small ring–large sprocket combination.
   - I reused the CR720 cantilever brakes that I originally bought for my 
   other Bombadil, which has fenders and racks. Braking was always 
   unsatisfactory on that build so I switched to V-brakes, but without these 
   impediments on the MTB build I was able to get the straddle cable much 
   lower, and the brakes had a pretty nice amount of MA. However, I was not 
   happy with the extreme amount of slop the brakes had on the canti posts so 
   I took them off and replaced them with Shimano CX70s, which are more 
   adjustable, a bit more powerful and fit better on the posts. If anyone 
   wants the CR720s sans straddle cables and pads for the cost of postage from 
   France, let me know.
   - Clément XC LXV tyres. They roll really nicely although I haven't got 
   the pressure dialled in yet. About 50 mm wide on these rims.
   - I mounted the headlight on the fork shoulder because the cable stop 
   for the cantis was occupying the normal spot. The mount does hit the 
   downtube but only when the handlebars are turned more than 90°. I'll see 
   whether this becomes annoying or not.

I've been for a couple of rides in the dusty, stony surrounds of 
Montpellier so far and I love the way this bike rides.

Thanks for reading!

Tom

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[RBW] Re: New-to-me 64 cm Bomba MTB build

[Tom Harrop]

Thanks for the compliments!

Patrick, the photographic talent is provided by the better half, who isn't 
into riding off-road. I don't have a small camera and my phone is useless 
for photos, but I'm currently campaigning for a point and shoot to take 
along on rides... I'll put 29 inch sea tyres on my wish list too and see 
which comes in first.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Blug post

[Tom Harrop]

When I was waiting for my "tentacular" Bombadil in 2011, Keven told me the 
join where the diagatube meets the down tube and splits into mixte stays 
for the rear triangle was quite tricky to execute (I don't remember why), 
and the frame was sent from Waterford to Nobilette specifically for that 
joint. Maybe the new bike will have a diagatube with TIG weld(s) in this 
area?

For what it's worth (not a huge deal in my opinion), looking closely for 
the first time, I think my 2011 Bombadil already has 4 TIG welds where the 
tentacular mixte stays join the diagatube and chain/seat stays. It's 
slightly different to the join in that area on the Cheviot. I don't know 
nothin' about nothin', but if this classifies as a not-fully-lugged frame, 
it's still Riv enough for me!

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[RBW] Re: New-to-me 64 cm Bomba MTB build

[Tom Harrop]

Yeah, Salagou does look nice. The problem is there are tons of nice-looking 
places around here but no way to get there without a car! Let me know if 
you have any other tips for the area...

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Re: [RBW] Re: Blug post

[Tom Harrop]

Leslie, that's exactly what I trying to describe—thanks for the pic!

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Re: [RBW] Wide mouth Canti's

[Tom Harrop]

If opening up wide is important I have had good luck with the CX70s. On the 
CX70s the pads are offset from the brake arm by a centimetre or two, allowing 
normal "road" pads to clear the fork/seatstay. This is not the case on Tektro 
CR720s. On my two Riv bikes, the same brake pads didn't clear the fork with 
CR720s but do with CX70s.

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[RBW] Re: Grunden's Poncho -- works for fastboys?

[Tom Harrop]

The larger size doesn't work for me (6'5") with drop bars.

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Re: [RBW] Clem on the Blug

[Tom Harrop]

Looks great to me. Long wheelbase, plenty of clearance. If they are going 
to be ready to ride for $1500 it's a bargain. I know they aren't going to 
come in 68 cm, but what were the sizes again?

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Re: [RBW] Clem on the Blug

[Tom Harrop]

Wasn't it already mentioned that they were going to use curved chain stays, 
assuming this bike has that new lug with fixed seat tube–chain stay angle? 
I think it may be in the catalogue or an old Blug post...

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS -- 56cm Bombadil

[Tom Harrop]

Hey, whatcha sayin' about people who own two Bombadils? Just set them up 
differently and it's like having two totally different, awesome bikes!

On Saturday, 11 October 2014 02:41:09 UTC+2, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Tom knows I'm tempted to buy his cool bluey to go with my orangey. That 
> would be pretty excessive to own two Bombadils.  On the other hand, I've 
> been thinking about giving Riv $1225 for a Chameleon Cheviot, and I was 
> going to set it up for off-roading.  Sending $1200 to Tom would be a 
> comparative bargain.  
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Seat post clamp bolt snapped

[Tom Harrop]

I know the feeling because I've had seatpost slippage on several bikes (I'm 
100 kg +). The first time I ran into it, I also incrementally cranked the 
bolt down tighter and tighter (without helping the slipping) until it 
snapped. With that in mind, I guess if the bolt snaps it means the seatpost 
is undersized (or the clamp is deformed), which causes the bolt to bend as 
you try to tighten it.

Anyway, each time I've managed to solve the problem by going up a seatpost 
size, even if it means ignoring the manufacturer's recommended size. One 
time the required size didn't seem to exist, so I used a wrap of 0.2 mm 
thick steel shim, which also worked.

In my hands, none of the other commonly suggested methods (like beer can 
shim, abrasive rub etc.) have ever helped... but it could just be a 
question of weight.

Good luck, and let us know how you end up fixing it.

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[RBW] Re: double horizontal toptube Bombadil

[Tom Harrop]

I have two Bombadils, an older parallel-undertube and a newer tentacular. 
Older takes a 27.2 mm post and newer 26.8 mm.

Both fit 60 mm big apples on Dyad rims, although it's a bit tighter on the 
older one at the chainstays.

I'm using 53 mm tyres (50 mm measured on 31 mm rims) on the older one and 
there's definitely room to go a little fatter. I believe you can see if you 
zoom in on this photo: https://flic.kr/p/pjHWGg

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Re: [RBW] Re: New-Bombadil-Day!

[Tom Harrop]

Nice bike! There's something really enjoyable about riding a fat-tyred 
Bombadil with drop bars.

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Re: [RBW] Re: What is the advantage of expensive hubs?

[Tom Harrop]

Forgive the minor thread hijack, but actually I'd love to hear some more 
opinions on XT vs LX hubs. I couldn't work out which are 'better' because 
there are (of course) different criteria for different purposes. For my 
purposes, weight is completely irrelevant. I want the better sealed, more 
durable hub that will be able to take my considerable weight when ridden 
off-road. Does anyone know if one is better than the other in this case?

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[RBW] Re: New-to-me 64 cm Bombadil!

[Tom Harrop]

Thanks guys. Yep, the 68 has noodles with bar ends at the moment and I'm 
planning to go with bullmooses and thumbies on this one. Maybe green 
bartape over the grips with dark shellack will complement the brown 
nicely...

Good point about the scratches, might as well cover them up while they're 
easy to get to. I'm sure I'll be making a few more, though.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Squishy Brakes

[Tom Harrop]

As long as the angle of the canti arm is less than 90° from vertical, 
lowering the straddle cable always increases mechanical advantage. See 
MAITOY .

If you're looking for more mechanical advantage (although that is not 
necessarily what you need to do to improve braking performance) you could 
try lowering the straddle cable and shortening the distance between the 
brake pads and the brake arm. The latter effectively reduces the canti 
angle which should increase the mechanical advantage of wide-profile 
cantis, in theory at least...

Having said all that, I could never get the Tektro CR720s on my Bombadil to 
stop satisfactorily, so I replaced them with Shimano V-brakes—a massive 
improvement. I still have the CR720s in my parts bin and I'll try them 
again on my next build to see if they work better when there are no fenders 
and racks to clear, allowing a much lower straddle cable.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Squishy Brakes

[Tom Harrop]

Also meant to say, from the description of "squishy" lever feel mechanical 
advantage may not be the problem, and I'd also try better brake pads before 
anything else.

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[RBW] Re: My 71 cm AHH

[Tom Harrop]

Congrats on the Homer! I love seeing other big bikes on here.

Liesl, not exactly what you requested but here's my 68 cm Bombadil with the 
rider of a 54 cm Homer...

https://flic.kr/p/boK3HF

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