[RBW] MKS sylvan bearings

[MobileBill]

I repacked MKS sylvan touring pedals, which eliminated a host of
noises, scrapes and annoyances I lived with too long on my saluki. I
highly recommend buying a pedal cap wrench with the sylvan pedals
(which are sensible and versatile platform pedals, and one of a
decreasing number of decent pedals compatible with power grips). Have
proudly mastered tightening that annoying recessed cone properly. But
have created a new problem. I discovered 21 bearings in one pedal, 22
bearings in the other. Nevermind who dropped the bearing (I still
believe it came that way). Does anyone know the size of these
bearings(they're not one-eighth and I wonder if they might be metric?)
Does it matter being a bearing short (this is a pedal after all, not a
wheel hub and it certainly FEELS smooth with the new grease, a lot
smoother than it was)? Should I worry at all with Sheldon's old
warning that all bearings ought to be replaced at once (this is a
pedal after all)?

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[RBW] photos of (almost) new Betty, first ever old Saluki

[MobileBill]

I told Jay and Keven we'd send photos along of the new Betty they both
worked with us on. Here's the little url (holler if I pasted it
wrong):

http://tinyurl.com/3vphhf6

 Bike has got a cool color, lime gold metallic, just this side of
weird. We've decided we really like it. Bike came in late February.
Have had a hard time getting my wife to sit still on it long enough to
take a photo _ in four weeks she was transformed from a both-feet-on-
the-ground newbie to a 20-mile-a-day fanatic. I think she takes it out
so much just because she knows she's going to turn heads when she
rides by on it. It's the most talked about mixte in Mobile.
 Color's the most unusual element, but it was one of the first
Rivs to use the new cream SKS fenders, and the match is sweet, as
you'll see. Has a Keven double up front and 8 speed on the back (a
great choice for this bike, I think), rapid rise rear derailleur, and
the ultra cheap SunRace shifters with the fake indexing, which work
about as well as any friction shifter I've used. Soma New Xpress 38mm
on Velocity. Albatross and cork.
 Bonus photos of my 6,000-mile-old Saluki, which I never managed
to post before. An interesting custom color, kind of burnt orange
persimmony, mutable in the changing light. It's become my workhorse,
my everyday commuter, my long miles bike. And photos of the largest
assemblage of Rivendells ever recorded in Mobile, beside the old Iron
Deer (it is what it is) and beneath the spooky oaks of Old Mobile.

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[RBW] Re: photos of (almost) new Betty, first ever old Saluki

[MobileBill]

Mike
I assumed (and still assume) that D&D was doing the painting on
both bikes, but never thought to ask specifically. Nearly as I can
tell Rick has performed multiple iterations of that persimmony color,
each one slightly different, but all sharp (see Trophy of Texas, and
Dave's AHH on Riv's staff bike page). This lime gold metal may also be
one of those "each batch is a little different" paint jobs.

On Apr 12, 12:45 am, Michael_S  wrote:
> I love the green on the Betty. Did D&D paint that?  That just might be
> the right color to re-paint the Ram.
>
> ~Mike
>
> On Apr 11, 9:01 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Love 'em both!  Great colors, and the front basket is perfect!
>
> > On 4/11/11, MobileBill  wrote:
>
> > > I told Jay and Keven we'd send photos along of the new Betty they both
> > > worked with us on. Here's the little url (holler if I pasted it
> > > wrong):
>
> > >http://tinyurl.com/3vphhf6
>
> > >  Bike has got a cool color, lime gold metallic, just this side of
> > > weird. We've decided we really like it. Bike came in late February.
> > > Have had a hard time getting my wife to sit still on it long enough to
> > > take a photo _ in four weeks she was transformed from a both-feet-on-
> > > the-ground newbie to a 20-mile-a-day fanatic. I think she takes it out
> > > so much just because she knows she's going to turn heads when she
> > > rides by on it. It's the most talked about mixte in Mobile.
> > >      Color's the most unusual element, but it was one of the first
> > > Rivs to use the new cream SKS fenders, and the match is sweet, as
> > > you'll see. Has a Keven double up front and 8 speed on the back (a
> > > great choice for this bike, I think), rapid rise rear derailleur, and
> > > the ultra cheap SunRace shifters with the fake indexing, which work
> > > about as well as any friction shifter I've used. Soma New Xpress 38mm
> > > on Velocity. Albatross and cork.
> > >      Bonus photos of my 6,000-mile-old Saluki, which I never managed
> > > to post before. An interesting custom color, kind of burnt orange
> > > persimmony, mutable in the changing light. It's become my workhorse,
> > > my everyday commuter, my long miles bike. And photos of the largest
> > > assemblage of Rivendells ever recorded in Mobile, beside the old Iron
> > > Deer (it is what it is) and beneath the spooky oaks of Old Mobile.
>
> > > --
> > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>
> > --
> > Cheers,
> > David
> > Redlands, CA
>
> > *...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
> > probably benefit more from
> > improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS- Hide 
> > quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: photos old Saluki

[MobileBill]

Bruce and Minh
It is an unusual color, but I'd have to take polite exception to
the talk of diaper green and slimey green.
This is sparkling tart golden apple green, or maybe a key lime
green with a lot of lemon thrown in.
I'm wondering if the slimey green talk maybe emerged from the
"sludge green" description that has been applied to the non-metallic
green of the original Salukis. I kind of like that old Saluki color,
by the way, but even Keven has noted that this Betty Foy color is kind
of new (we picked it out of a bunch of Imron paint chips, so it's
probably not the yellow green commented on previously), and a world
away from the old Saluki green.
  But Bruce, it would be fun to compare colors to your bike in the
flesh. Bring your bike next time you come to the coast! I agree, the
racks, tires and bags don't seem to affect rideability or speed, at
least where the saluki is concerned. I try not to take too much
pleasure in dropping riders who sneer at the fenders, the rat trap
petals and the fat Schwalbes.
   Bill

On Apr 12, 3:34 pm, Bruce  wrote:
> Funny, I've read comments on this color (was it officially called "yellowish
> green?") for several years on this list. People love it or hate it. I've read
> comparisons to diaper contents for example.  Mine is this color, and I like 
> it.
> It sparkles in the sun, which doesn't seem to show well in pictures. I had
> thought though that when repaint time comes I'd like to try the wonderful 
> claret
> wine red I've seen in Jim's gallery, or now lately the persimmony mix that 
> looks
> so nice. That decision is a few years off however. The '95 Road will be 1st 
> up I
> think. Staying with the original blue, but do I go for a cream head tube or 
> not?
> h
>
> Unrelated to green paint, but while we are on the Saluki subject: Mine has had
> Oursons on for a few years, and despite racks and fenders and Baggins bags 
> front
> and rear, rides about the same speed as anything else I get on. Looking at the
> numbers this year, it has more miles than any of my other 3 bikes, but all are
> reasonably close.  It has a very  nice riding position for a long day in the
> saddle. A ride you can still get on the Hilsen, of course.
>
> Bruce
>
> 
> From: Rick 
> Subject: [RBW] Re: photos of (almost) new Betty, first ever old Saluki
>
> I'll confess here and now that my Saluki problem is a growing
> issue.  Nice color there, too.
>
> --

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[RBW] Re: Splats and 'Cho

[MobileBill]

As a daily commuter in the rainiest city in the U.S. _ yes, Mobile,
Ala., gets 67 inches of rain a year, almost twice as much rainfall as
Seattle airport _ I experiment a lot with riding in the rain.  Wet
leather shoes and damp feet are among the most annoying issues. Have
been looking for sensible shoe covers for a while, and hope these fit
the bill, so Grant may sell at least three pair.
  During our wonderfully torrid summer, I get not much wetter in
the rain than I do riding on "dry" days, so I don't bother. During
cooler weather, I mostly use a rain jacket in combination with quick-
dry pants (nothing beats the sensible MUSAs, which I change out of at
work). But I'm not ruling out the possibility there is a place for a
poncho. I have had a cheap bicycle specific poncho for years, and it
gets dragged out for use on occasion. It's a grand annoyance to wear a
poncho for the entirety of a 40 minute commute, but even here, it's
rare that I need it for more than a few miles. The hooded portion of
my old poncho is large enough to swallow head and helmet, but
precisely for that reason it is an extraordinarily efficient scoop for
rain, and thus is ulimately useless (not to mention that it seriously
interferes with peripheral vision, pretty important on busy roads).
Riv's hoodless design seems to have taken that into consideration and
may be a significant improvement.
 Love the look of the rain hat. May buy it to enhance my sailing
costume. Not worried about keeping my thinning crop of hair dry on the
bike, particularly since it's going to be wet from sweat anyway. Just
wanta keep my head warm on cold days,and there may be better ways of
doing that donning a storm hat. What I really need is a good system
for keeping water off my glasses, face and neck. Maybe the next
project for us communting nerds is a helmet-compatible bill or a brim
broad enough to shed rain without interfering with vision or going
airborne.

On Nov 19, 8:37 am, Mike  wrote:
> Why isn't anyone talking about this aspect of the cho:
>
> "Two sizes: Medium fits to 5' 8"; L fits 5' 9" and up. If you're 5'
> 8.5, you're out of luck."
>
> What the hell does Grant have against 5' 8.5'ers!?!
>
> I've been commuting for the past 4yrs here in Portland wearing a cheap
> REI rain jacket, some cheap LL Bean rain pants, and no real foot
> protection. My commute is only 4 miles so this kit works well enough.
> I have a pair of Rain Legs but just can't bring myself to wear them,
> they just seem bizarre with all the straps and stuff. I wouldn't mind
> having a pair of those Riv rain paints but they're just a bit much for
> me right now. I can't picture myself riding in a poncho. I wish there
> were a way to try it out first. As for the splats... maybe I'll pick-
> up a pair just to keep them from becoming the new all-time worst
> seller.
>
> @Steve, sorry to hear about your crash, glad you're okay.
>
> --mike

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[RBW] Re: Betty Foy questions

[MobileBill]

Jeremy
Anxiously awaiting delivery of my wife's Betty,and I have had a
similar question about Hetres. Never got an unambiguous answer, but
did discover that Renaissance apparently fitted a Betty with Hetres,
though there was some question about fender fit. I'm playing it by ear
_ ordered the Fatty Rumpkins, nominal 40s, which Keven believes will
handle the SKS fenders fine, though the additional substance of the
Honjos and their like may be a tighter squeeze, we worry. Short of it:
Without fenders, general opinion seems to be yes; with fenders, the
general opinion seems to be a mumbling maybe.
Hope others wil speak to us both more directly about this ...
Trail _ I shouldn't pretend to be the least expert in sorting that
out, but Grant has made an interesting case that trail numbers in
isolation don't mean much in the performance of Riv bikes, and I've
found that seems to be true for my Saluki. Regardless of trail, I
wouldn't have much concern about loading up the front of a Betty, and
have noticed that most buyers do.
 Bill






On Jan 28, 3:54 pm, Jeremy Smith  wrote:
> Hello RBW'rs
>
> I am investigating the Betty Foy for my wife.  She current has a SOMA Buena 
> Vista, and it's ok, but too small for her.
> So the key questions for me:
>
> Will the 58cm Foy fit Hetres?  
> and
> What's the trail on that fork? (This may be on the website, and I might have 
> just missed it completely)
>
> Thanks
> Jeremy

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[RBW] Re: Betty Foy questions

[MobileBill]

Illuminating. Thanks for setting up the photos. Rear 3 looks mighty
tight at the bridge(?) connection, but that might be camera angle.
Rumor is that Riv will soon be stocking new cream colored SKS. Have
convinced my wife that these will appeal to her aesthetic as much as
the elven-hammered honjos. Keven and others warn that the curled lip
and the turned down edge on the Honjos and Berthouds _ one of the
features promoted by those who like them _ eat up critical space in a
tight fit situation. So I keep coming back to the SKS, which work so
well on my Saluki, I forget they're there.

On Jan 28, 7:42 pm, William  wrote:
> Here's the photos
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/5396494939/http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/5397091824/http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/5397092882/http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/5397092378/http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/5397092082/
>
> The tightest squeeze is the clearance on the sides for the diagonal
> stays.  Those are hard to photograph, behind the brake caliper.
> Furthermore, the geometry might be a little different there on a 58.
> It looks do-able to me, but if you tried to put fenders in there that
> are WAY wider than Hetres, they may interfere, and you'd have to bend
> metal and such.  I'm sure I could do it with SKS P45's.
>
> On Jan 28, 5:17 pm, William  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > My wife has a 52 Betty (well, an Yves if you want to get technical).
> > I have a wheelset with Hetres, so I could throw those wheels on and
> > photograph the clearances.  The Yves is not running fenders at the
> > moment.  I have no doubt I could fit fenders, but I've been happily
> > using SKS plastics.  Having not set up a set of Honjos or Berthouds, I
> > don't know how much more intrusive they are than SKS.  I would hope
> > they dont take up any more room.  If they fit through the brakes, they
> > ought to take the tires, because Hetres fit in Silver calipers with
> > plenty of room.
>
> > Regarding trail, there's online trail calculators on the web.  You
> > enter headtube angle, rim ERD, tire diameter, and fork rake.  For a 58
> > Betty, that's 70 degrees, 584mm, 42mm(for a Hetre), and 53mm rake.
>
> > yojimg.net has a calculator that using those numbers comes out to:
> > 66.6mm
>
> > On Jan 28, 4:11 pm, Rene Sterental  wrote:
>
> > > I bought a Betty for my daughters to borrow from me... :-)
>
> > > Bought the size 58 since it fits us all, me and them. For them it's on
> > > the brink of being too large, for me on the brink of being too small,
> > > but nevertheless good for all. It's not my primary bike but rather, my
> > > bike to do errands around Palo Alto.
>
> > > To your questions:
>
> > > - Hetres do fit without fenders. They don't fit with the Honjo fenders
> > > Jan recommends, and then the question is can everything "work" with
> > > Hetres and narrower Honjo fenders or SKS fenders... maybe. IIRC, the
> > > largest Honjo fenders that fit are 47mm, so the fit between them and
> > > the Hetres may not be as good.
>
> > > - I believe that the trail would be high, according to Grant's
> > > philosophy. That beeing said, it handles as nice as all the other Rivs
> > > do. Your wife will not care... :-)
>
> > > René

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[RBW] Re: Ms Foy for my wife

[MobileBill]

Roadieryan truly grasps the complexity of this issue. As he predicted,
my wife lept over the discussion of eccentric hubs and chain
tensioning and is now fully focused on the details of the Eleven81
wicker basket, which she declares a stunning example of a bike basket.
Given that I'll be doing the tire changing, at least initially, I'm
biased toward the rear derailleur set-ups (though I spent many happy
hours of my youth banging up a 3-speed Hercules). Thanks all for your
comments.

On Jul 26, 12:02 pm, RoadieRyan  wrote:
> +1 on the 1x9 mentioned earlier.  Unless you have really big hills a
> 1x9 with a 11-34 and a 40t ring ought to cover your wife in most
> instances.
>
> Now to the important stuff, get a nice basket for the front of Mz.
> Foy.  I built up a mixte for my wife last year for her 40th and what
> she loves most about her bike is the Eleven81 wicker basket with QR.
> Great for errand runs or long rides in the country that require a
> picnic stop.
>
> Have fun, I am sure your wife will love the Foy.
>
> On Jul 25, 12:26 pm, Ginz  wrote:
>
> > Do keep us updated on your build. I may be undertaking the exact same
> > exercise in a few months. My early vote is for 1x8 though I could see
> > a granny ring being a relationship saver.
>
> > On Jul 25, 9:45 am, "Allingham II, Thomas J"
>
> >  wrote:
> > > Sure.  Probably a few weeks.  But given my entirely self-taught and 
> > > fraught-with-trial-and-error mechanical skills, no guarantee it will be 
> > > right the first time
>
> > > 
> > > From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
> > > [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of PATRICK MOORE
> > > Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 12:34 PM
> > > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> > > Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Ms Foy for my wife
>
> > > Could you post a photo of your setup, as well as the Q measurement, when 
> > > you have the bb and crankset assembled? Thanks.
>
> > > On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 9:39 PM, Allingham II, Thomas J 
> > > mailto:thomas.alling...@skadden.com>> wrote:
> > > Yes but only w/ external bearings.  Google Forward Compenents blogspot.  
> > > Just ordered one for installation of a Rohloff hub in my Bombadil
>
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: rbw-owners-bu...@goo
>
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[RBW] Re: Saddle experiment

[MobileBill]

Bruce
Hadn't considered the possibility of a longer replacement bolt.
Suspect that info will come in handy. Thanks, and keep us posted on
how it holds up.

 Mike and Steve:
  My guess is that some anatomies benefit from Selle Anatomicas
more than others. In my experience the additional saddle flexibility
isn't as much a benefit for the sit bones as it is for the avant garde
of the nether regions. I started out with B17s on my Saluki and
vintage Trek,and my sit bones never complained. But in spite of all
trimming, I found the nose exceedingly uncomfortable and numbing after
30 or so miles, particularly when I was hunched down in the drops.
This doesn't seem to be a problem for everyone, obviously. But the
complaint nose of the SA _ and it's the CUT-OUT that apparently makes
it compliant _ eliminated that issue entirely. I keep my saddle
relatively stiff, so it's not quite a hammock where my butt is
concerned. I have a friend whose SA looks like a sway-backed horse,
but I don't think I could stand to ride mine that a'way.
 I must add that my experience with the build of SA's has been up
and down. I'm a tad under 180, primarily a road rider, and a rider who
"posts" frequently, but have had the metal bend on one, even though it
purported to be a Clydesdale. As Grant might note, it IS steel, and
can be bent back, but it ain't easy, and it shouldn't have been a
problem in the first place. To offset leather sag, lace-ups along the
bottom of the saddle seem almost inevitable (and seem to work fine),
and lace-ups can greatly delay the day of reckoning with the end of
the saddle bolt. Sent one SA back for way premature leather sag, and
the company graciously and quickly replaced it.
  I have wondered if this inconsistency is one of the reasons Riv
quietly stopped selling them. But the saddles that have been good have
been very good, and I'd hate to have to do without them.
   From all I've seen, it would be a big mistake to get any other
than a Clyde, unless you weight less than 150 and promise never to hit
a bump in the road.

On Aug 21, 4:58 pm, Bruce  wrote:
> Since I first bought a Selle Anatomica from RBW, it's been my seat of choice. 
> I
> have them on 3 of the 4 bikes that call our garage "home." One of the saddles
> came used from another cyclist, and was already fully stretched out. My past
> experience with Selles is that once they get to that point, they stay there. 
> GP
> said the same thing in the advertising blurb back when Riv was selling them. I
> was surprised then on today's ride (to Fat Girl's BBQ Cafe, no less) when the
> seat stretcher bolt fell OUT and onto teh ground as I was riding. The saddle 
> was
> soaked with sweat and hammocked so that it was laying on top of the seatpost.
> No, there was no pain, just consternation. The leather LOOKS okay, and instead
> of sending $75 to re skin the frame back at the factory, I decided to go to 
> Home
> Depot instead. I came back with a 3 1/2" bolt to replace the 2" long fallen 
> out
> one. The Selle bolt has a custom head which gets a narrow hex socket inside a
> hole in the steel saddle nose piece. I knew I wouldn't find that, but came 
> back
> with a carriage bolt instead. I turned it up snug against the rounded inside
> portion of the nose piece and we'll see how it rides. If it's a bust, I'm out 
> a
> whopping $0.33 (inc tax)
>
> None of my other Selles have done this, btw.

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[RBW] wimpy cassettes and chain rings

[MobileBill]

The questions: Could it be that cassettes and chain rings have become
remarkably less durable in the past XX years? Are lightweight high end
cassettes and chain rings more or less durable than lower end rings?
Or have the indents and carvings on the hyperglide systems made
components more vulnerble to wear? Is it that modern cassettes and
rings are machine (laser?) cut whereas the old freewheels were hand
cut? Any significant difference in manufacturers (shimano vs. sram?)
Or am I just making this up?
   The situation: I'm kind of appalled that I've managed to wear
serious shark's fins in my middle, 36T, ring in fewer than 3,500
miles. Cassette is just as bad. Should have changed em out a 1,000
miles ago. Both are Riv standard issue, which is at the low end of the
shimano scale (HG30), and would presumably be heavier and perhaps more
durable than the super lightweights at the upper end of the scale (HG
70). It's a rough world on my commute, frequent stops and quick
accelerations, grinding hills, frequent rains and lots of additional
weight from computers, groceries and what not. But the transmission
gets frequent maintenance, and I have freewheels and chain rings that
are very nearly two decades old and still useable.
   Implications: At this rate, I'm going to be replacing cassette and
one to two chain rings (not to mention the chain) twice! each year on
the beloved Saluki. Is it time to reassess whether cassette and chain
ring improvements are really an improvement? Are there transmission
components more appropriate for Riv riders who have little use for the
racing style refinements of modern cassettes and chainrings?

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[RBW] Re: wimpy cassettes and chain rings

[MobileBill]

I feel, then, that we have narrowed the questions considerably, to "Or
am I just making this up?" Thanks for your patient responses _ I am
relieved now to worry about something else, such as what riding habits
are chewing up my transmission? Rain, silt, the fact that I take pride
in getting up to speed much faster than the adjacent cars when the
light changes? And maybe my perception of lost durability boils down
to this: The older I get, the more I worry about how smoothly my bike
shifts. Shame about getting old.

On Sep 29, 3:13 pm, Steve Hemmelgarn  wrote:
> 
> From: EricP 
> To: RBW Owners Bunch 
> Sent: Wed, September 29, 2010 8:11:18 AM
> Subject: [RBW] Re: wimpy cassettes and chain rings
>
> Agree with Steve here.  Back from 1983 to 1986 would go through two or
> three freewheels a year.  And a like number of chainrings.  That was
> commuting to college through Minnesota winter and using too thick of
> oil.  Ate the rings alive.
>
> The newer stuff seems to be pretty good.  Although will admit to a
> preference for steel chainrings or 7051.  And also replace the chain
> more frequently than needed.  Well, most of the time.  Seems to keep
> excess wear at bay.  At least for me and my riding habits.
>
> But, yes, rain and grit does seem to wear stuff out quickly.  Just not
> sure it's any quicker than before.
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>
> On Sep 28, 9:09 pm, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Tue, 2010-09-28 at 19:03 -0700, MobileBill wrote:
> > > The questions: Could it be that cassettes and chain rings have become
> > > remarkably less durable in the past XX years? Are lightweight high end
> > > cassettes and chain rings more or less durable than lower end rings?
> > > Or have the indents and carvings on the hyperglide systems made
> > > components more vulnerble to wear? Is it that modern cassettes and
> > > rings are machine (laser?) cut whereas the old freewheels were hand
> > > cut? Any significant difference in manufacturers (shimano vs. sram?)
> > > Or am I just making this up?
> > >    The situation: I'm kind of appalled that I've managed to wear
> > > serious shark's fins in my middle, 36T, ring in fewer than 3,500
> > > miles. Cassette is just as bad. Should have changed em out a 1,000
> > > miles ago. Both are Riv standard issue, which is at the low end of the
> > > shimano scale (HG30), and would presumably be heavier and perhaps more
> > > durable than the super lightweights at the upper end of the scale (HG
> > > 70). It's a rough world on my commute, frequent stops and quick
> > > accelerations, grinding hills, frequent rains and lots of additional
> > > weight from computers, groceries and what not. But the transmission
> > > gets frequent maintenance, and I have freewheels and chain rings that
> > > are very nearly two decades old and still useable.
> > >    Implications: At this rate, I'm going to be replacing cassette and
> > > one to two chain rings (not to mention the chain) twice! each year on
> > > the beloved Saluki. Is it time to reassess whether cassette and chain
> > > ring improvements are really an improvement? Are there transmission
> > > components more appropriate for Riv riders who have little use for the
> > > racing style refinements of modern cassettes and chainrings?
>
> > I'm using those same Hyperglide components -- typically XTR (cranks)
> > and XT, cassettes usually Ultegra or HG70 and have been doing so
> > for quite some time.  I have tens of thousands of miles on chain
> > rings, and I usually get many thousands of miles on chains and cassettes.
> > On the other hand, I used to get no more than 2-3000 miles on a
> > freewheel back in the 70s and 80s.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
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[RBW] Sam goes Outside

[MobileBill]

My wife directed me this morning to praise for Mr. Hillborne in the
May Outside bike guide. An attached blurb made friction shifting sound
like the latest and greatest. May say something about the state of
cycling that the staff of that magazine seems to have such a soft spot
for Riv, unlike perhaps some cycling exclusive glossies.
As a bonus, you get a great shot on the back page of some species of
nerodia fishing for bream.

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[RBW] Re: Sam goes Outside

[MobileBill]

Sorry Jon, my jargon worlds collided. Though to stay on topic, the
scene reminded me in a quirky way of Grant's favorite posted trout
photo.

On Apr 25, 7:50 am, Jon Grant  wrote:
> MobileBill wrote:
>
> As a bonus, you get a great shot on the back page of some species of
> nerodia fishing for bream.
>
> ==
>
> I just love that I have to look up words I read on this list. You guys are a
> lot of fun!
>
> --
> Jon ³Little Words² Grant, who jest larned thet a nerodia is sum kinda AHHH!
> SNAKE! in
> Austin, Texas
>
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[RBW] Ms Foy for my wife

[MobileBill]

In a fit of spousal munificence, I am postponing plans to buy a
Bombadil so that I can get my wife a Betty Foy. She's unlikely to turn
into a long-distance rider, but hope I'll have her along for a few
miles of store hopping and socializing (over flat ground). Your
comments on these matters are much appreciated:
 1) My wife has the long-legged, short-body proportions of many
females, with  PBH that's probably going to land in the low to mid-80s
(a 58 cm frame) but an upper body that may be better suited to shorter
virtual top tube (the 52 cm frame, which to my eye, has the more
elegant tube angles). Any observations on the slack in the Betty Foy's
two frame sizes (is frame size relatively less important with these
bikes than with, say, the AHH/Saluki)?
 2) She has a low tolerance for complicated shifters, and it's
unlikely she will need a wide gear range _ but I'm not keen on 8-speed
internal hubs.  Any thoughts on whether an 8-speed cassette with
single chainring in front can be set up to suit the needs of an
occasional, inexperienced rider?

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[RBW] Re: Ms Foy for my wife

[MobileBill]

Thanks to those who passed along observations on-line and off-line. I
will take em all to heart. I've been friction shifting so long, I
forgot I might have to consider indexing for my wife (and all the
additional compatibility issues!).
 _ Bill




On Jul 20, 6:18 pm, Frankwurst  wrote:
> I have a beater/traveler bike set up with an  8 speed rear and a 42 up
> front (you can always go smaller). I take it to places with big hills
> with no problems and love the simplicity of 8 gears. Index the RD with
> a Barcon on Albatross bars and she'll have a great bike for what you
> mentioned in my opinion.
>
> On Jul 20, 11:52 am, MobileBill  wrote:
>
> > In a fit of spousal munificence, I am postponing plans to buy a
> > Bombadil so that I can get my wife a Betty Foy. She's unlikely to turn
> > into a long-distance rider, but hope I'll have her along for a few
> > miles of store hopping and socializing (over flat ground). Your
> > comments on these matters are much appreciated:
> >      1) My wife has the long-legged, short-body proportions of many
> > females, with  PBH that's probably going to land in the low to mid-80s
> > (a 58 cm frame) but an upper body that may be better suited to shorter
> > virtual top tube (the 52 cm frame, which to my eye, has the more
> > elegant tube angles). Any observations on the slack in the Betty Foy's
> > two frame sizes (is frame size relatively less important with these
> > bikes than with, say, the AHH/Saluki)?
> >      2) She has a low tolerance for complicated shifters, and it's
> > unlikely she will need a wide gear range _ but I'm not keen on 8-speed
> > internal hubs.  Any thoughts on whether an 8-speed cassette with
> > single chainring in front can be set up to suit the needs of an
> > occasional, inexperienced rider?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant at Fairhope, Alabama

[MobileBill]

Bruce
   I'd look for you and David there, but am scheduled to do radio
thing that morning that I probably can't get out of. My wife will be
there for the ride, but unfortunately, I think my Mobile neigborhood's
population of three Rivs won't be represented. Hope you guys can make
it down or over. Holler if I can help ...

On Apr 22, 6:32 pm, Bruce Herbitter  wrote:
> David: Where are you located? There aren't too many Rivs in AL for sure!  I
> want to make the ride. The original announcement sounded like there was a
> Q&A and book signing and then a ride, if GP could wrangle the folder into
> the carry case.
>
> On Sun, Apr 22, 2012 at 3:38 PM, carnerda...@bellsouth.net <
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> carnerda...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> > Don't know if any other list members are planning to make it to this book
> > signing and ride.  If so, this information might be useful.
> > According to the bookstore website, the signing is happening on Friday
> > evening, May 4, from 6-8 PM.
> > The ride, third annual Good Life Ride, is on Sunday AM, with more book
> > signing to follow.
> > This was confirmed by email by Karin Wilson last night.
> > Wish I could make it, but looks doubtful.
> > David
>
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[RBW] seized bottom bracket cup

[MobileBill]

Hey
   I think I've heard all the tricks for removing, and will problably be 
seeking an appropriately long pipe tomorrow, but I'd like your thoughts: Is 
it likely that I could damage the frame of my Saluki or the bottom 
bracket threads just by applying more leverage in an attempt to free the 
seized drive side cup? I hear the carbon and aluminum guys fretting about 
such things, but what are the chances with steel? If threads get stripped 
in the process, can they be re-chased in a reliable way?
   THe left side came off easily, but the drive side has proved tougher. I 
doubt soaking in oil will help, since the threads were only recently 
greased. It appears that the  drive side really got torqued up a few weeks 
ago by a mechanic, who was hoping to take some play out of the cranks. But 
it seems the play REALLY was a faulty or failing cartridge, so now I need 
to remove and replace. Damn. I'm ready to get back on this bike, but don't 
want to mess it up.

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Re: [RBW] seized bottom bracket cup

[MobileBill]

Yes, that's always a good reminder when you get down in those pedal parts, 
and I shoulda mentioned that I did make sure I was turning it clockwise to 
loosen. It's just a booger to turn.

On Monday, June 11, 2012 7:39:50 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Are you 100% sure you're turning it in the right direction? Standard 
> (English) bottom brackets have left-hand threads on the drive side; your 
> Saluki should unscrew by turning the drive side cup clockwise.
>
> --Eric N
>
> On Jun 11, 2012, at 5:29 PM, MobileBill wrote:
>
> Hey
>I think I've heard all the tricks for removing, and will problably be 
> seeking an appropriately long pipe tomorrow, but I'd like your thoughts: Is 
> it likely that I could damage the frame of my Saluki or the bottom 
> bracket threads just by applying more leverage in an attempt to free the 
> seized drive side cup? I hear the carbon and aluminum guys fretting about 
> such things, but what are the chances with steel? If threads get stripped 
> in the process, can they be re-chased in a reliable way?
>THe left side came off easily, but the drive side has proved tougher. I 
> doubt soaking in oil will help, since the threads were only recently 
> greased. It appears that the  drive side really got torqued up a few weeks 
> ago by a mechanic, who was hoping to take some play out of the cranks. But 
> it seems the play REALLY was a faulty or failing cartridge, so now I need 
> to remove and replace. Damn. I'm ready to get back on this bike, but don't 
> want to mess it up.
>
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Re: [RBW] seized bottom bracket cup

[MobileBill]

Thanks for y'alls advice and concern and general hand holding. We got bold 
and cracked it, figuratively speaking, with the help of four arms and a 
torque wrench ( the hardest part, as Jim and others indicated, is keeping 
the tool from slipping outta the cup and figuring out how to keep the frame 
from flexing and squirming _ it doesn't work if you try to do it while the 
bike's in the repair stand).The new cartridge cups screwed on like a charm, 
so there was no damage to the (very English!) thread.It appears the old 
cartridge had *literally* been cracked long before we loosed it and that 
was evidently the cause of the failed cartridge. I've heard of cracked 
cups, but have never seen yjr cartridge housing itself cracked. Strange.
But the Saluki rides better than it has ridden in months. Glad to be 
back in the saddle again. Even better, I had an excuse to commute (18 miles 
round trip) on my wife's Betty Foy for a week, ladies short nose wide 
seated springy saddle and all. Thought I would hate it. But I think I might 
do it again just for the fun of it.

On Tuesday, June 12, 2012 9:29:33 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Maybe Rivendell snuck in French or Swiss threading? Both have 
> different thread pitch and French RH cups thread in clockwise, not 
> counter-clockwise. Or no, that's Swiss; French have different threads 
> but thread in like English ones. Or no, that's French. Or not. 
> Seriously, my erstwhile and Eric Norris's present Motobecane has 
> French threads. Or Swiss -- never did figure it out, just had the LBS 
> get the right cups from Phil. 
>
> More seriously yet! I've applied huge amounts of torque to RH cups on 
> steel frames and never had a problem as long as (1) the cup was not 
> cross-threaded and (2) I carefully secured the jaws of the clamping 
> device (I run an old front QR through the axle with huge washers at 
> either end). 
>
> Please God your mechanic hasn't cross threaded the cup. 
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 11, 2012 at 6:29 PM, MobileBill wrote: 
> > Hey 
> >I think I've heard all the tricks for removing, and will problably be 
> > seeking an appropriately long pipe tomorrow, but I'd like your thoughts: 
> Is 
> > it likely that I could damage the frame of my Saluki or the bottom 
> > bracket threads just by applying more leverage in an attempt to free the 
> > seized drive side cup? I hear the carbon and aluminum guys fretting 
> about 
> > such things, but what are the chances with steel? If threads get 
> stripped in 
> > the process, can they be re-chased in a reliable way? 
> >THe left side came off easily, but the drive side has proved tougher. 
> I 
> > doubt soaking in oil will help, since the threads were only recently 
> > greased. It appears that the  drive side really got torqued up a few 
> weeks 
> > ago by a mechanic, who was hoping to take some play out of the cranks. 
> But 
> > it seems the play REALLY was a faulty or failing cartridge, so now I 
> need to 
> > remove and replace. Damn. I'm ready to get back on this bike, but don't 
> want 
> > to mess it up. 
> > 
> > -- 
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>
>
>
> -- 
> "Push back against the age as hard as it pushes against you." 
>
> Flannery O'Connor 
>
> - 
> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA 
> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW 
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html 
> - 
>

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[RBW] A hunq of a 650B?

[MobileBill]

As many have noted on recent posts, 650B appears to be the wheel of choice 
now for mountain biking. 
So it feels odd to me that the companies that first demonstrated the 
usefulness of 650B for mountain biking (Riv and Raw) don't now have a dog 
in the hunt. Well, OK, the bomb is available as a custom, but I'd feel 
guilty. And Raw continues to produce 650B, but with lightweight frames that 
may not be suitable for some of the rougher tougher stuff we'd expect of a 
Hunq or a Bombadil. 
(My bikes are working bikes: I actually use my bikes to commute and to do 
field work in wildlands, but the Saluki and Betty were obviously not 
designed for the latter. I imagine it would be nice to have a bike designed 
to  carry a significant load and handle deep sand and rocky roads and 
moderately difficult downhills and long distance travel on pavement. Sort 
of like a Hunq or a Bomb.)
Maybe I should get a Hunq, but for my size, the 650B wheels just seem so 
much more sensible and fitting and maneuverable, and it's what I'm used to 
(on my Saluki and Betty), and the tires are now available in spades. 
Your thoughts (or insider knowledge) on whether I should settle for 700 
Hunq, or hold out for Riv or Raw to return to their roots, or look 
elsewhere for a (used?) 650B heavy duty bike.

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[RBW] Re: A hunq of a 650B?

[MobileBill]

Yep.Just wanted to make sure. Maybe since it's just not me, there'll be 
more thought given to it. Keven and Grant have both discouraged talk about 
650B conversions with the Hunq, for all the reasons Bill Lindsay laid out, 
and then some. Take a look at the 52, 54 or 56 Bomb compared to similar 
models of the Hunq, *and particularly in that size range*, I see some 
measurable advantages for fit, clearance and ride, not to mention 
appearance. The 650B just seems like a tighter, more trail ready bike in 
that size.

On Monday, December 23, 2013 10:45:37 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> let me agree back that an affordable rivendell 650b mountain bike would be 
> kickass

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[RBW] Re: Attn: Big mileage riders

[MobileBill]

Seems like a good time to note that in 19,500 miles I have worn out three 
Schwalbe Marathons (not three sets, three tires -- the fourth tire is still 
in service). And it's not that the tires weren't still riding fine, I just 
got a little nervous when the undertread started peaking through. If I kept 
the front tires on the front, rather than rotating to back, they'd easily 
run 12,000+. So I don't quite know how to figure the mileage, but I got my 
money's worth. 
I am tempted to try other lighter, more flexible, and more fashionable 
tires on my Saluki, but ... I've had three flats in 19,500 miles on regular 
ol marathons, and  I commute on nasty roads  ... and after three thousand 
or so miles, my Marathons have lost a lot of weight and and gained perhaps 
a bit of flexibility, so for the next 5,000 miles I like to pretend I have 
a reasonable facsimile of a Compass tire ... 

On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 5:18:25 PM UTC-5, dougP wrote:
>
> The Blug has some interesting photos of a Schwalbe Marathon that went 
> 14,000 miles.  There's no tread left on the center, so it pretty much 
> earned its keep a while back, IMHO.  BUT, at the end of story, Rivendell 
> says "Anybody who buys a Marathon Plus from us and rides it 14,000 miles 
> gets a free replacement."  Save those proofs-of-purchase!  
>
> I don't doubt the mileage.  I got 11,000 miles out of a Supreme on the 
> front on my Atlantis.  It looked better than the tire in the photo when I 
> changed it.  I don't try to squeeze the last mile out of my tires, 
> especially the front.  Tire life is highly variable, depending on width, 
> load such as rider weight & use, nice pavement vs off-road, etc.  
>
> So if you pile on the miles, now you know the best source for tires.  
>
> dougP
>

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[RBW] synergy rims (again?)

[MobileBill]

I say this recognizing that I might be jumping to conclusions, but I seem 
to have once again had problems with Synergy OC 650B rims. Since so many of 
you have them, I'm asking you to help my analyze whether the problem is the 
rim or something else.
Here's the issue: A really severe creaking has been rattling through 
the frame and getting worse for some months. I mean howling loud - you 
could hear me creaking from a block away. It was worse when I turned the 
pedals, but it made some noise all the time. I changed saddles, retightened 
bb and chainrings and pedals, reset cassette and checked rear hub and 
finally got the bright idea of changing out the wheel.
As soon as I did, the noise stopped. Now I'm looking at the rim, and I 
see the same hairline cracks developing around the eyelets that I had 
developing with my first synergy oc rim several years ago.
This relatively new rim, a replacement for the first cracked synergy oc 
rim, only has a little over 2000 miles on it. It was built by one of the 
best wheelbuilders. I thought that the early problems with oc rims had been 
fixed.
 I don't think it's just me: I weigh 180 pounds and inflate Schwalbe 
marathons to no more than 60 psi. I carry groceries home on my commute, and 
travel occasionally rough city streets, but do not ride this bike off road 
(though I would like to if the danged rims could be trusted).
 Do you think the creaking and the cracking are related?
 How long can I keep riding with cracked rims?
 Is anyone else experiencing this rim cracking? I don't have this 
problem on any other rims, including some less stout Mavic rims ...
 Is this something that should be happening this quickly (my Marathon 
tires last two to three times longer than the rim!)?
 SHould I pester velocity? the wheel builder?
 
 

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[RBW] Re: synergy rims (again?)

[MobileBill]

And am I correct in conjecturing that Velocity no longer offers Synergy OC 
(see website)?

On Monday, June 9, 2014 9:21:06 PM UTC-5, MobileBill wrote:
>
> I say this recognizing that I might be jumping to conclusions, but I seem 
> to have once again had problems with Synergy OC 650B rims. Since so many of 
> you have them, I'm asking you to help my analyze whether the problem is the 
> rim or something else.
> Here's the issue: A really severe creaking has been rattling through 
> the frame and getting worse for some months. I mean howling loud - you 
> could hear me creaking from a block away. It was worse when I turned the 
> pedals, but it made some noise all the time. I changed saddles, retightened 
> bb and chainrings and pedals, reset cassette and checked rear hub and 
> finally got the bright idea of changing out the wheel.
> As soon as I did, the noise stopped. Now I'm looking at the rim, and I 
> see the same hairline cracks developing around the eyelets that I had 
> developing with my first synergy oc rim several years ago.
> This relatively new rim, a replacement for the first cracked synergy 
> oc rim, only has a little over 2000 miles on it. It was built by one of the 
> best wheelbuilders. I thought that the early problems with oc rims had been 
> fixed.
>  I don't think it's just me: I weigh 180 pounds and inflate Schwalbe 
> marathons to no more than 60 psi. I carry groceries home on my commute, and 
> travel occasionally rough city streets, but do not ride this bike off road 
> (though I would like to if the danged rims could be trusted).
>  Do you think the creaking and the cracking are related?
>  How long can I keep riding with cracked rims?
>  Is anyone else experiencing this rim cracking? I don't have this 
> problem on any other rims, including some less stout Mavic rims ...
>  Is this something that should be happening this quickly (my Marathon 
> tires last two to three times longer than the rim!)?
>  SHould I pester velocity? the wheel builder?
>  
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: synergy rims (again?)

[MobileBill]

To clarify, I did change out the wheel, and the creaking stopped, so it's 
not the bb. Put the wheel back on, and it started again. Rear hub is smooth 
as glass. There are two cracks at least, still small but noticeable. And 
the noise is alarming. I'm guessing the two are related, and your friend's 
experience indicates that it is.

On Monday, June 9, 2014 10:59:31 PM UTC-5, IanA wrote:
>
> In terms of the creaking, it would be a good idea to find out exactly what 
> is the cause.  If you could try a different wheel on the back and if the 
> creaking is still there, it could be bottom bracket related, or a pedal or 
> the saddle or any number of things.  It can be difficult to find the cause 
> of a creak, squeak or rattle, but some investigation is certainly necessary 
> as damage to threads could occur if the creaking is at the bottom bracket, 
> for example.  That us to say if the BB has partially un-threaded itself.
>
> Cracks in a wheel can also make a creaking sound, but they should be 
> reasonably easy to spot.  Look for hairline cracks starting at the spoke 
> hole or eyelet on the rim. A friend of mine rode a rim with cracks in it 
> for some distance (a few weeks while touring) and it didn't cause problems, 
> but he described the noises as alarming.
>
> If the problem is the rim itself, assuming the wheel-builder sourced the 
> rim for you, he should be able to sort out any warranty stuff.  Velocity 
> have a good reputation for customer service, so it's worth following up.
>
> IanA.
>
>
>
> On Monday, June 9, 2014 8:21:06 PM UTC-6, MobileBill wrote:
>>
>> I say this recognizing that I might be jumping to conclusions, but I seem 
>> to have once again had problems with Synergy OC 650B rims. Since so many of 
>> you have them, I'm asking you to help my analyze whether the problem is the 
>> rim or something else.
>> Here's the issue: A really severe creaking has been rattling through 
>> the frame and getting worse for some months. I mean howling loud - you 
>> could hear me creaking from a block away. It was worse when I turned the 
>> pedals, but it made some noise all the time. I changed saddles, retightened 
>> bb and chainrings and pedals, reset cassette and checked rear hub and 
>> finally got the bright idea of changing out the wheel.
>> As soon as I did, the noise stopped. Now I'm looking at the rim, and 
>> I see the same hairline cracks developing around the eyelets that I had 
>> developing with my first synergy oc rim several years ago.
>> This relatively new rim, a replacement for the first cracked synergy 
>> oc rim, only has a little over 2000 miles on it. It was built by one of the 
>> best wheelbuilders. I thought that the early problems with oc rims had been 
>> fixed.
>>  I don't think it's just me: I weigh 180 pounds and inflate Schwalbe 
>> marathons to no more than 60 psi. I carry groceries home on my commute, and 
>> travel occasionally rough city streets, but do not ride this bike off road 
>> (though I would like to if the danged rims could be trusted).
>>  Do you think the creaking and the cracking are related?
>>  How long can I keep riding with cracked rims?
>>  Is anyone else experiencing this rim cracking? I don't have this 
>> problem on any other rims, including some less stout Mavic rims ...
>>  Is this something that should be happening this quickly (my Marathon 
>> tires last two to three times longer than the rim!)?
>>  SHould I pester velocity? the wheel builder?
>>  
>>  
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: synergy rims (again?)

[MobileBill]

Thanks to all for comments and advice.
Jim, I did remove the qr and cleaned, but no change. I'll replace it 
entirely and see if that makes a difference. 
The hairline cracks are still small -- not yet as extended as the ones on 
my first rim -- but they are clearly developing spreading an inch or so 
from a couple of eyelets in either direction. I also decided to check the 
OC rims on the Betty, and I see them developing there as well.
Front synergy rims, by the way, show little signs of wear or trouble after 
almost 19,000 miles.

On Tuesday, June 10, 2014 5:51:14 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On 06/09/2014 11:50 PM, Nanga Parbat wrote: 
> > That is scary. I just ordered a set of synergy rims for a new build. I 
> > would suggest advising the wheel builder and then contacting Velocity. 
> > I think Velocity would want to clear up your case quickly, especially 
> > being your second OC rim. Good customer service would only benefit 
> > Velocity 
> > and this group should be on their radar. 
> > 
>
> Velocity's customer service on this issue in the past has been 
> outstanding. 
>
>

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[RBW] Hunq or bomb

[MobileBill]

Spent many years thinking about it, but finally have set aside enough money 
to consider a dedicated mountain bike/heavy load tourer. It would 
supplement my Saluki, and actually get a lot of use in my work, which often 
involves surveys in national forests and other areas with many miles of 
poor roads, paved, gravel and single track. And because of a new contract, 
I'd need to purchase before the end of the year.
Now I need some hand-holding.
I've got almost enough money now to outfit a hunq complete, and I am 
certain it's a great bike. But even though I'm snug as a bug on my 58 
Saluki, Keven and I suspect I'd end up on a 51 Hunq, with 26-inch wheels. 
Problem is there's already two 650b bikes in the family, and I've gotten 
quite comfortable with that wheel size, have parts to boot, and there's a 
lot more 650b products coming. I've also convinced myself that given my 
long torso, the cockpit might be a bit small and just a little less 
comfortable on a long haul.
I'd be all over the Bombadil 52, which has the requisite 650b and longer 
top tube and seems at least a slightly better fit for me, but I'm not yet 
sure I can excuse myself for spending another grand (and it may take a bit 
longer to accumulate that). 
I doubt there's any difference in the sturdiness of these bikes. It all 
comes down to fit and comfort over long distances and occasionally very 
rough roads; I would hope sheer looks don't count for more than 10 
 percent, but I'm told the new Bombadil 52s have the rear tentacles.
Those familiar with Hunqs and Boms, think I'll see a difference in fit 
or ride?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq or bomb

[MobileBill]

yes, the second generation to be clear, though in the past, the 52s did not 
have the diagonal tube, so maybe this is the third iteration

On Saturday, July 12, 2014 5:35:14 PM UTC-5, Peter M wrote:
>
> I think the 2nd generation bombas is what he means. 
> On Jul 12, 2014 6:24 PM, "Bill Lindsay" > 
> wrote:
>
>> "I'm told the new Bombadil 52s have the rear tentacles."
>>
>> New Bombadil?  Official model, or unofficial - official model?  Like a 
>> Legolas?
>>
>> On Saturday, July 12, 2014 12:28:52 PM UTC-7, MobileBill wrote:
>>>
>>> Spent many years thinking about it, but finally have set aside enough 
>>> money to consider a dedicated mountain bike/heavy load tourer. It would 
>>> supplement my Saluki, and actually get a lot of use in my work, which often 
>>> involves surveys in national forests and other areas with many miles of 
>>> poor roads, paved, gravel and single track. And because of a new contract, 
>>> I'd need to purchase before the end of the year.
>>> Now I need some hand-holding.
>>> I've got almost enough money now to outfit a hunq complete, and I am 
>>> certain it's a great bike. But even though I'm snug as a bug on my 58 
>>> Saluki, Keven and I suspect I'd end up on a 51 Hunq, with 26-inch wheels. 
>>> Problem is there's already two 650b bikes in the family, and I've gotten 
>>> quite comfortable with that wheel size, have parts to boot, and there's a 
>>> lot more 650b products coming. I've also convinced myself that given my 
>>> long torso, the cockpit might be a bit small and just a little less 
>>> comfortable on a long haul.
>>> I'd be all over the Bombadil 52, which has the requisite 650b and longer 
>>> top tube and seems at least a slightly better fit for me, but I'm not yet 
>>> sure I can excuse myself for spending another grand (and it may take a bit 
>>> longer to accumulate that). 
>>> I doubt there's any difference in the sturdiness of these bikes. It all 
>>> comes down to fit and comfort over long distances and occasionally very 
>>> rough roads; I would hope sheer looks don't count for more than 10 
>>>  percent, but I'm told the new Bombadil 52s have the rear tentacles.
>>> Those familiar with Hunqs and Boms, think I'll see a difference in 
>>> fit or ride?
>>>
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>

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[RBW] the new Suntour?

[MobileBill]

A recent post on a derailer hanger for Simple One referred to this site:

http://sunxcd.net/chaintug/

Ignore, for now, the hanger, and check out the rest of the products. Read 
the "About" section, and the company's mission. Did I miss a conversation 
about this? Is this the new component manufacturer that Grant hinted at a 
number of months ago?

(By the way, thanks to those who responded to my earlier post re: Hung or 
bomba. Just got back in town and reviewing...) 


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[RBW] Re: the new Suntour?

[MobileBill]

See also the feature bike on their website ...

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 8:02:23 AM UTC-5, MobileBill wrote:
>
> A recent post on a derailer hanger for Simple One referred to this site:
>
> http://sunxcd.net/chaintug/
>
> Ignore, for now, the hanger, and check out the rest of the products. Read 
> the "About" section, and the company's mission. Did I miss a conversation 
> about this? Is this the new component manufacturer that Grant hinted at a 
> number of months ago?
>
> (By the way, thanks to those who responded to my earlier post re: Hung or 
> bomba. Just got back in town and reviewing...) 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: the new Suntour?

[MobileBill]

Sorry, now that I have the right search terms in place, I see this was 
discussed back in April, and that this is somehow an extension of the 
microshift products once offered by Riv. To salvage this conversation, 
maybe I should ask if anyone knows much about what's happening with this 
company (and whether Riv plans to pick them up again).

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 8:02:23 AM UTC-5, MobileBill wrote:
>
> A recent post on a derailer hanger for Simple One referred to this site:
>
> http://sunxcd.net/chaintug/
>
> Ignore, for now, the hanger, and check out the rest of the products. Read 
> the "About" section, and the company's mission. Did I miss a conversation 
> about this? Is this the new component manufacturer that Grant hinted at a 
> number of months ago?
>
> (By the way, thanks to those who responded to my earlier post re: Hung or 
> bomba. Just got back in town and reviewing...) 
>
>
>

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[RBW] A day in the life of a Saluki

[MobileBill]

So the local magazine is looking for a pretty bike to photograph in
transit, for a story on the growing popularity of bike commuting (yes,
even in ol’ Mobile, Alabama). Someone at the local bike shop,
interestingly enough, points them to the Saluki. So we head out on our
first 9-mile leg to the office, with a photographer in tow, catching
the burnt orange gleam of the Saluki from every angle. Get to work,
and someone says, boy I’d like to get a bike like that …
Shortly before noon, I realize that I’ve been distracted by
the celebrity, and left some important papers at home. I have a little
over an hour to get there and back, 18 miles and then some in lunch
time traffic. I throw off the panniers, and the Saluki does what a
Saluki does -- bounding at 19 or 20 miles an hour down potholed city
streets on those fat 650s, flying at 33 miles per hour down the last
long hill back to work.
   Six o’clock, I’m ready to head home, and a co-worker calls and
says she’s left some important mailings at the office. But then she
remembers I’m on the bike, and says, Nevermind, we’ll do it tomorrow.
 They’ve got to go out tonight, and it's the other side of town to
get there. The panniers go back on the Saluki, and I wedge in
something close to 15 pounds of mailings, plus a change of clothes and
the usual trunk full of stuff. I expect some wobble from the front
end, but I just lean into it, and she runs like she’s got a keel under
her, about as fast as I care to peddle on the fourth commuting leg of
the day.
  On the way home in the dark, I roll over the neck of a beer
bottle and hear the Schwalbe Marathon 37s crush it into tiny pieces. I
think I hear air escaping, and realize it’s a sprinkler in one of the
yards.
   After what's pretty close to a 40-mile day, the odometer tells
me I have nearly 9,000 miles on the bike and the tires. The Marathons
haven't had a flat in 8,500 miles, but one of these days, I’m going to
have to replace that rear one. This Saluki, though … I hope I’m riding
it for a long, long time.

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[RBW] Re: A day in the life of a Saluki

[MobileBill]

I don't know, but I can say with great confidence that I have the
fastest Saluki of any color in Mobile.

On Dec 17, 3:15 am, Ablejack  wrote:
> the orange Saluki is fastest.
>
> On Dec 14, 8:56 pm, MobileBill  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > So the local magazine is looking for a pretty bike to photograph in
> > transit, for a story on the growing popularity of bike commuting (yes,
> > even in ol’ Mobile, Alabama). Someone at the local bike shop,
> > interestingly enough, points them to the Saluki. So we head out on our
> > first 9-mile leg to the office, with a photographer in tow, catching
> > the burnt orange gleam of the Saluki from every angle. Get to work,
> > and someone says, boy I’d like to get a bike like that …
> >         Shortly before noon, I realize that I’ve been distracted by
> > the celebrity, and left some important papers at home. I have a little
> > over an hour to get there and back, 18 miles and then some in lunch
> > time traffic. I throw off the panniers, and the Saluki does what a
> > Saluki does -- bounding at 19 or 20 miles an hour down potholed city
> > streets on those fat 650s, flying at 33 miles per hour down the last
> > long hill back to work.
> >        Six o’clock, I’m ready to head home, and a co-worker calls and
> > says she’s left some important mailings at the office. But then she
> > remembers I’m on the bike, and says, Nevermind, we’ll do it tomorrow.
> >      They’ve got to go out tonight, and it's the other side of town to
> > get there. The panniers go back on the Saluki, and I wedge in
> > something close to 15 pounds of mailings, plus a change of clothes and
> > the usual trunk full of stuff. I expect some wobble from the front
> > end, but I just lean into it, and she runs like she’s got a keel under
> > her, about as fast as I care to peddle on the fourth commuting leg of
> > the day.
> >       On the way home in the dark, I roll over the neck of a beer
> > bottle and hear the Schwalbe Marathon 37s crush it into tiny pieces. I
> > think I hear air escaping, and realize it’s a sprinkler in one of the
> > yards.
> >        After what's pretty close to a 40-mile day, the odometer tells
> > me I have nearly 9,000 miles on the bike and the tires. The Marathons
> > haven't had a flat in 8,500 miles, but one of these days, I’m going to
> > have to replace that rear one. This Saluki, though … I hope I’m riding
> > it for a long, long time.

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[RBW] Re: What kind of mustache wax to use?

[MobileBill]

Man, who'd have thought I'd be talking about this on a Riv site, but
then, maybe it makes sense after all ...
Firehouse Moustache Wax (see the appropriately tacky internet page) is
a superior product for sweating bikers on their Rivendells (and my
lovely Saluki has carried the burden of many other moustache waxes
over the years). No overwhelming odor (unlike Clubmen and many
products) and it really can last all day, even here in Gulf Coast heat
and humidity. I prefer the "Light" version, which is virtually
colorless and all the wax I need, but I hear the "Wacky Tacky" is even
tougher (if less predictable in color). Seems to be a mix of beeswax
and something(s) else, but it just lasts a lot longer than any other
product I've used _ it's the Schwalbe Marathon of moustache waxes! _
but without making my moustache look like congealed road tar. I've
been using it for a couple of years and I'm not dead yet, so there's
some evidence that the ingredients are not unusually unhealthful ...
(no kidding, I am kind sensitive to some chemical products, and this
one is sitting right beneath my nose every day and I don't notice).
Wow, let's talk moustache wax again sometime, shall we?

On Jan 24, 11:19 am, Amit Singh  wrote:
> Thanks for the responses.  Especially the more creative ones.  I'll
> try them, but you do it first, okay?
>
> On the topic of mustache wax, lots of people carry a tin on their
> person for periodic 'touchups' throughout their day.
>
> This subject of 'every day carry' is one of which I've been slightly
> obsessed.
>
> http://everyday-carry.com/is a cool website.  There are a few others
> which are similar.
>
> I'd be interested in seeing your EDC's.  I need to capture an image of
> mine, but until then here's a list:
>
> - Bandana (serves as handkerchief)
> - Opinel No. 6 knife
> - Lip Ivo
> - iPhone 4 carried in Col. Littleton No. 50 Phone Wallet
> - Keys carried on ML Brown Braided Keychain
> - Shure E4 Earbuds
> - Lamy Fountain Pen
> - Moleskin Notebook
> - Swatch GB743
> - Canon S100 Camera
> - Surefire G2x Tactical Flashlight
> - Hndlebars Moustache Wax - 1 oz. tin
>
> I like how all this stuff is compact so it fits well inside of a small
> bicycle bag.  When I'm not on the bike it's generally carried in a
> pocket on my briefcase, and when that doesn't happen I can carry it
> all on my person in various pockets.
>
> - Bicycle Repair Kit featuring:
> - Crank Bros. Multi-Tool 17
> - Einstein's Patch Kit
> - Spare Tube
> - Chain Breaker Tool
>
> On Jan 23, 11:43 pm, William  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > chicken *adobe *?!?
>
> > Goodness, and you call yourself pinoy!  Please!

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[RBW] Re: Every Day Carry + What kind of mustache wax to use?

[MobileBill]

Man, who'd have thought I'd be talking about this on a Riv site, but
then, maybe it makes sense after all ...
Firehouse Moustache Wax (see the appropriately tacky internet page) is
a superior product for sweating bikers on their Rivendells (and my
lovely Saluki has carried the burden of many other moustache waxes
over the years). No overwhelming odor (unlike Clubmen and many
products) and it really can last all day, even here in Gulf Coast heat
and humidity. I prefer the "Light" version, which is virtually
colorless and all the wax I need, but I hear the "Wacky Tacky" is even
tougher (if less predictable in color). Seems to be a mix of beeswax
and something(s) else, but it just lasts a lot longer than any other
product I've used _ it's the Schwalbe Marathon of moustache waxes! _
but without making my moustache look like congealed road tar. I've
been using it for a couple of years and I'm not dead yet, so there's
some evidence that the ingredients are not unusually unhealthful ...
(no kidding, I am kind sensitive to some chemical products, and this
one is sitting right beneath my nose every day and I don't notice).
Wow, let's talk moustache wax again sometime, shall we?


On Jan 24, 11:19 am, Amit Singh  wrote:
> Thanks for the responses.  Especially the more creative ones.  I'll
> try them, but you do it first, okay?
>
> On the topic of mustache wax, lots of people carry a tin on their
> person for periodic 'touchups' throughout their day.
>

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[RBW] Re: What kind of mustache wax to use?

[MobileBill]

Man, who'd have thought I'd be talking about this on a Riv site, but
then, maybe it makes sense after all ...
Firehouse Moustache Wax (see the appropriately tacky internet page) is
a superior product for sweating bikers on their Rivendells (and my
lovely Saluki has carried the burden of many other moustache waxes
over the years). No overwhelming odor (unlike Clubmen and many
products) and it really can last all day, even here in Gulf Coast heat
and humidity. I prefer the "Light" version, which is virtually
colorless and all the wax I need, but I hear the "Wacky Tacky" is even
tougher (if less predictable in color). Seems to be a mix of beeswax
and something(s) else, but it just lasts a lot longer than any other
product I've used _ it's the Schwalbe Marathon of moustache waxes! _
but without making my moustache look like congealed road tar. I've
been using it for a couple of years and I'm not dead yet, so there's
some evidence that the ingredients are not unusually unhealthful ...
(no kidding, I am kind sensitive to some chemical products, and this
one is sitting right beneath my nose every day and I don't notice).
Wow, let's talk moustache wax again sometime, shall we?


On Jan 23, 1:44 pm, Amit Singh  wrote:
> I've been letting my natural 'wool buff' grow out to protect my face
> from the cold while riding so now I look something like this:
>
> o(|8-{D>
>
> Rather than trimming my mustache I'd like to curl it up.  What kind of
> mustache wax have you used?  What do you like?  Anything to stay clear
> of?
>
> And ... a few photos from my most recent adventure ride on Saturday in
> Detroit.  Lots of fun Bombadil photos and a few of above referenced
> facial hair.
>
> http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150485746682260.370087.697...

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[RBW] Re: What kind of mustache wax to use?

[MobileBill]

Sorry for the multiple post. Seems to be some gremlin in the system
tonight.

On Jan 24, 8:41 pm, MobileBill  wrote:
> Man, who'd have thought I'd be talking about this on a Riv site, but
> then, maybe it makes sense after all ...
> Firehouse Moustache Wax (see the appropriately tacky internet page) is
> a superior product for sweating bikers on their Rivendells (and my
> lovely Saluki has carried the burden of many other moustache waxes
> over the years). No overwhelming odor (unlike Clubmen and many
> products) and it really can last all day, even here in Gulf Coast heat
> and humidity. I prefer the "Light" version, which is virtually
> colorless and all the wax I need, but I hear the "Wacky Tacky" is even
> tougher (if less predictable in color). Seems to be a mix of beeswax
> and something(s) else, but it just lasts a lot longer than any other
> product I've used _ it's the Schwalbe Marathon of moustache waxes! _
> but without making my moustache look like congealed road tar. I've
> been using it for a couple of years and I'm not dead yet, so there's
> some evidence that the ingredients are not unusually unhealthful ...
> (no kidding, I am kind sensitive to some chemical products, and this
> one is sitting right beneath my nose every day and I don't notice).
>     Wow, let's talk moustache wax again sometime, shall we?
>
> On Jan 23, 1:44 pm, Amit Singh  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > I've been letting my natural 'wool buff' grow out to protect my face
> > from the cold while riding so now I look something like this:
>
> > o(|8-{D>
>
> > Rather than trimming my mustache I'd like to curl it up.  What kind of
> > mustache wax have you used?  What do you like?  Anything to stay clear
> > of?
>
> > And ... a few photos from my most recent adventure ride on Saturday in
> > Detroit.  Lots of fun Bombadil photos and a few of above referenced
> > facial hair.
>
> >http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150485746682260.370087.697...

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[RBW] Re: Foss tubes

[MobileBill]

You may know already, and forgive me if you do, but for the longest, I
didn't know: Schwalbe tubes have the bonus feature of a removable
stem. I spent many months trying to find punctures in my Schwalbe
tubes until I finally recognized that the problem was a slow leak from
a loose valve stem (which can loosen when you take the cap off
carelessly, or put the pump on wrong). Embarrassing, but boy was it
nice to get it figured out finally. A couple of good twists with the
needle nose ( there's a squared off space on the stem) may end your
mysterious spate of flats.

On Feb 1, 9:54 pm, René Sterental  wrote:
> I have been using them for a couple of months now. Reviewed the movie that
> shows how to install them (just do a search online and you'll find it) as
> well as some additional clips that show how to fix punctures using a match
> instead of patches. I'm currently using them on the Betty and the
> Hunqapillar. Haven't had any flats yet and this isn't goat-head season so
> can't speak on that regard. On the Hunqapillar I'm using Marathon Duremes
> 40 which are puncture resistant anyway but in the Betty I'm running red
> Hetres. Not a lot of mileage, unfortunately, but no issues whatsoever.
> Perhaps they tend to lose air a bit faster than the Schwalbe tubes I was
> using, but not a big deal. Had two Schwalbe tubes slowly deflate overnight
> with no apparent punctures, perhaps just a bad batch or some micro-puncture
> I couldn't detect with the usual methods.
>
> René

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[RBW] Re: Replacement chainrings

[MobileBill]

After chewing up one alum alloy chainring _ the middle 36-tooth one _ I 
decided to go with Surly steel, and there are no downsides and maybe some 
real advantages. It's got 5 thousand miles on it and looks shiny as the day 
it was born. Of course, no noticeable wear. No shifting pins and ramps and 
that kind of yaya, but neither do vuelta or most other replacement rings. 
How does that affect shifting? It's a front derailleur (for pete's sake). I 
can't imagine why I would care if the shifting were 'easier" (supposing it 
could be)? And in your case, it's the big ring on the front derailleur _ 
how much difference would ramps and pins make in that situation? With a 
friction shifting system, the pinless rampless systems might even be 
preferable. Short is, I got no problems shifting, and would probably get 
all surly steel, if I could only wear the other two rings out.

On Thursday, May 23, 2013 5:53:47 PM UTC-5, Arthur Lewy wrote:
>
> I run a 44t outer on my XD double which needs replacing and RBW no longer 
> carries them.  Recommendations for sources?  Has anyone tried a Surly steel 
> chainring for 2x or 3x use? I wonder how front shifting would work.  Thx 
> all in advance. 
>
> Art Lewy 
> Seattle 
> Green Ramb 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 650b Marathing vs. 650b Soma Xpress

[MobileBill]

I've been commuting on Marathon 650Bs on my Saluki over about 13,500
miles of mostly miserable and trashy roads. I've had two flats in that
time. The first occurred at mile 500 or thereabouts, the result of a
strange spike of glass, the likes of which I've never seen before. The
second occurred on the same tire (rear, of course) at mile 9,900.
That's when I decided I might as well put on a new Marathon tire (I
switched the old front to the back and rode it another thousand or so
miles - riding merits aside, what a value!).
 On our somewhat more "recreational" bikes, I've ridden Gran Bois
Cerf (28), Soma New Express 38, Marathon 30mm Racers and various
Michelins. I'd buy the Racers and the Cerfs again, though they've had
their share of flats. I guess it's possible any of them might be
"faster" than the Marathon, but I never think of the Marathons as slow
(except when I'm riding into the wind) and I'd have to describe all of
them (including the Somas) as somewhat more harsh.
 It's entertaining to think about the merits of various tires, but
at a certain point, you want to quit worrying about tires and go
somewhere. That's what Marathons are for.

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[RBW] WTT advice: Help with stem measurements

[MobileBill]

I'll pass along this piece of advice: For those who put high mileage on 
triples, you might find your middle chainring showing excessive wear rather 
too frequently. After wearing out two chainrings, I bought the stainless 
steel chain ring from Surly and couldn't be happier. No ramps, no pins, and 
no problems: Not sure shifting aids are even needed on a triple, 
particularly with friction, and I certainly can't tell the difference.
And here's the advice I need: How eactly do you measure a nitto stem while 
it's still on the bike? I've finally decided to try shortening mine, but 
not much, so I need to know exactly what stem length I have on there now. 
(I;ve read the internet comments on this, which make me considerably less 
certain I'm measuring correctly).

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[RBW] Re: WTT advice: Help with stem measurements

[MobileBill]

Thanks to all!

On Sunday, October 28, 2012 8:01:26 PM UTC-5, MobileBill wrote:
>
> I'll pass along this piece of advice: For those who put high mileage on 
> triples, you might find your middle chainring showing excessive wear rather 
> too frequently. After wearing out two chainrings, I bought the stainless 
> steel chain ring from Surly and couldn't be happier. No ramps, no pins, and 
> no problems: Not sure shifting aids are even needed on a triple, 
> particularly with friction, and I certainly can't tell the difference.
> And here's the advice I need: How eactly do you measure a nitto stem while 
> it's still on the bike? I've finally decided to try shortening mine, but 
> not much, so I need to know exactly what stem length I have on there now. 
> (I;ve read the internet comments on this, which make me considerably less 
> certain I'm measuring correctly).
>

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[RBW] Re: How waterproof are the Sackvilles?

[MobileBill]

I don't mean to get into a bragging war with the folks in Seattle, but
Mobile is literally the rainiest city in the U.S. at 67 inches per
year (Seattle gets a drizzly 38 inches or so). And we regularly get
two and three inch in a couple of hour kind of deluges (Grant now has
some inklng of this). During our last tropical storm, I accidentally
left my Saluki outside with my work clothes stuffed inside the
Sackville panniers. After an inch and a half of rain in an hour, my
work clothes were dry as a bone. I'm sure it would have been
overwhelmed at some point, but it's going to be a once in a decade
storm. I could report similar semi-miraculous moments with other Riv
heavy canvas bags (the older trunk bags and the erstwhile Keven bag).

On Dec 27, 2:29 pm, Brian Hanson  wrote:
> After a 3 or 4 seasons in Seattle commuting and riding with various canvas
> bags (Sackvilles and Acorns), I would say they are not appreciably less
> waterproof than the Ortlieb I used to use other than the zippers.  If you
> can fold the bag over (shopsack) so the zipper isn't exposed, you should be
> good.  I also would say the fabric used in the Sackvilles is better than
> the other canvas I've used.  I still like my Acorn Tall Rando, though :)
>
> Brian
> Seattle, WA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Dec 26, 2012 at 10:15 AM, Michael  wrote:
> > Any water get inside in rainy rides?
>
> > --
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[RBW] Re: Calling All Mixte Rivsters!

[MobileBill]

Re the original question: I bought a Betty for my wife, who re-learned
the joys of riding on it, only to abandon the Betty in pursuit of the
infamous "faster" bike. This has allowed me to use the Betty for my
daily commuting and shopping trips, and there are occasions when I
prefer to hop on the Betty instead of my treasured Saluki. Why? Yes,
the step through frame offers some minor advantages. The frame is
comfortable (and more comfortable than any other mixte I've ridden),
but certainly no more so than the Saluki. I think the reason it's my
go-to bike for short trips is because of the way it is set it up, with
the albatross bars, the Sugino XD2 chainring with chainguard (no mess
on the pants), the elegantly cruddy Sun Race thumbshifters (which may
be the best $16 buy in the whole world) and of course the ridiculously
springy Brooks B67 saddle. I,m sure I'd have never dared outfit my
Saluki this way, and these features might all be something of an
annoyance on rides longer than 15 miles or so. But for trips 5 miles
or so, the Betty is just divine, and besides, there's nothing like
overtaking the latest carbon racer while riding a steel mixte.

On Jan 5, 6:33 pm, "mikel66...@juno.com"  wrote:
> j,
> i usually try to sell stuff locally before shipping out but perhaps we can 
> come to termshttp://classicfuji.com/RoyaleII&RoyaleIIMixte_1982_Page.htmthis 
> is prolly the bike (blue)
> i have the complete bike..sinlge wall 27" wheels, panto fuji crank. decent c+ 
> paint. nothing abused just a lot of storage scratches and such
> mike goldman
> warwick,r.i.
> 
> Woman is 53 But Looks 25
> Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered 
> doctors...http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/50e8c69178a0f46915e32st03duc

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[RBW] 3 nice things from Rivendell

[MobileBill]

Three surprising things Rivendell led me to (besides my Saluki and my
wife's Betty Foy):
   1. It sounds silly to say too much about such a small thing, but as
I listened to it jingle on the way home this evening, it struck me
that the dollar bell Rivendell sells is as close to perfect as any one
dollar thing will ever be. The sound is comforting (not at all like
the Poe poem Grant attached to it). Not too much; just enough. People
smile when I pass by; I think it's me, and then remember it's the
bell. It's the best excuse for sleigh bells we'll ever have on the
Gulf Coast. Sorry. I said more than I should have. It just seems
strange to be so pleased by something that appears so insignificant.
2. Some of us are made for SelleAnatomica saddles. Best I can
figure, some of us don't get a proper lift from the too-thin layer of
fat covering our sit bones, so the lovely B17 remains a pain, unless
we ride it absolutely upright. The design of the SelleAnatomica
addresses that anatomical issue, maybe like no other saddle.
Unfortunately, SelleAnatomica saddles had a reputation for poor
materials, particularly the metal frame. Fortunately, Tom Milton's
siblings have taken over the company, and have made a number of
excellent changes to the materials and to the website. They've bent
over backwards to help me replace some of my old saddles. I'm very
pleased with the new chromoly rails, and have mounted it anywhere on
my seatpost with confidence. It may be time to give them a second
look.
3. I've now gone more than 7,000 miles on my standard Schwalbe
Marathons without a flat. As Grant warns, the dang things don't seem
to want to wear out, though I'll probably replace them soon just
because I don't want to risk discovering their limits. Maybe there are
other important things to say about a tire, but this is a key
attribute for a tire that has to get me to work 6 days a week. I only
regret that Schwalbe doesn't have more offerings (Dureme, for example)
in 650b.

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