[RBW] Re: Fwd: YouTube - DBC 200K 3-5-11

2011-03-06 Thread MikeC
I really like the placement of the camera with the reflection in the
top tube that results. How did you attach the camera to the frame?

On Mar 5, 11:24 pm, Eric Norris  wrote:
> Video from today's 200K Davis Bike Club brevet, which I rode on my heavy and 
> somewhat slow Pachley Guvnon (Riv content: lugged steel, leather saddle, wool 
> jersey).
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEXES47ADjY
>
> Enjoy!
>
> --Eric
> campyonly...@me.comwww.campyonly.comwww.wheelsnorth.org

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[RBW] Frame Flex

2011-03-26 Thread MikeC
I found David Kirk's discussion of frame flex very understandable,
particular the section labeled "bottom bracket/drivetrain".
http://www.kirkframeworks.com/Flex.htm

-Mike

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[RBW] Lifetime of Tange Bottom Bracket

2013-09-04 Thread MikeC
What are sorts of lifetimes are folks getting from the Tange BBs that come 
with the Hillbornes and other fine Rivendells.
 
-Mike

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[RBW] Handlebar Bag on 60 cm Sam Hillborne

2010-12-31 Thread MikeC
Has anyone successfully mounted a classic handlebar bag with decaleur
on a 60 cm Hillborne or other bike with a large drop from stem to top
of fender? My Technomic Dlx is at the max exension. I have read poor
stability is a potential issue with the integrated decaleur on the VO
front rack. Anyone with experience with those and what bag did you
use? I'm considering a midsize bag.

-Mike C.

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Front Racks

2011-01-08 Thread MikeC
Not to hijack this thread, but how do the VO's in stainless steel
compare to the Nittos in cro-mo in design and quality? They seem
pretty similar in photos and VOs are half to two-thirds the price.

-Mike

On Jan 8, 12:09 pm, Earl Grey  wrote:
> Go with the Mini. It's a great rack, and mine has carried well over 30 lbs
> without a problem. In fact, the superiority of the Mini is a major reason to
> get a cantilever bike, IMO.
>
> I have no experience with the two-strut, so take my comments with a grain of
> salt, but despite the double struts I doubt it can carry more weight than
> the mini, because its attachment to the fork crown is much less secure
> (bolted-on flat piece of flexible steel vs. brazed-on solid round steel
> rod). That said, the two strut will fit cantis acc. to rivbike: "It mounts
> to any of our bikes, and most others". For the most secure attachment, you'd
> probably want to run a bolt through your forkcrown to attach the flat metal
> piece to...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Gernot

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[RBW] Hillborne Green

2011-02-01 Thread MikeC
Anyone had any luck matching the original Hillborne green?

Mike

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[RBW] Samuel Hillborne Touch-Up Paint

2011-02-02 Thread MikeC
Looking for a touch-up paint or nail polish for Hillborne green.
Anyone found a good match?

-Mike C.

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[RBW] FS: Velo-Orange Model 6 Saddle

2011-02-05 Thread MikeC
I have a like-new black leather VO Model 6 saddle that, while well-
made and cool-looking (like a Brooks Swallow), is a bit too narrow for
me. I really wish it would work for me because I love everything else
about it. I put a light coat of proofhide on top, nothing on bottom as
there is a thin laminate to prevent excess saging. I put about 100
miles max. on the saddle and there are no signs of it conforming to my
sit bones; it's just like new. VO sells them new for $95; I'm asking
$75 to help me finance another model. Photos on request.

Link to the VO page: 
http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/saddles/vo-saddle-model-6.html

-Mike C.

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[RBW] Re: AR front brake shudder and fork flex

2011-02-19 Thread MikeC
My experience is the same as Angus's. My CR720's fit very loosely on
the studs and when the pads contact the rim they pivot on the studs
enough to go toe out if you do not set up the pads to be toe-in under
contact and rotational load. Cured the violent low-speed shudder for
me.

-Mike C

On Feb 19, 7:55 am, Angus  wrote:
> I had a set or Ribbit (typical Cyclocross brakes, Mafac copies) on my
> Atlantis that did a very similar thing.
>
> I am not familiar with Paul's brakes so this may not apply (some
> brakes have an internal bushing and don't have a bushing riding
> directly on the cantilever post on the frame).  Also Jim may be
> entirely correct in his explanation; without researching on the
> internet my mind took me down a different path.
>
> After fiddling around with the usual things, I noticed the Ribbits had
> a lot of clearance between the cantilever post on the fork and the
> inside diameter of the bushing in the brakes (a loose fit on the
> posts).  This allowed the toe to change; as the brakes were applied
> the the force on the pads took up the clearance between the posts and
> the brakes tending to rotate the brakes to a "toe-out" position.
>
> I changed to Shimano XT High Profile cantilevers (which have very
> little slop) and the problem stopped completely.  Sometimes more toe
> than seems reasonable can help shuddering brakes; some things flex
> more than we would like to believe.
>
> I tend to run the straddle cables quite high, the Shimanos on the
> Atlantis I have the straddle cable about 1/2" above the lower headset
> cup.  The Mafacs on the Quickbeam the straddle cable is a few inches
> above the lower headset cup.  Makes for a very firm feel at the brake
> lever.
>
> Angus
>
> On Feb 18, 9:09 pm, rw1911  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I'm assuming (hoping) this is a simple setup issue...
>
> > I've recently installed Paul brakes (neo-retro front, touring rear) on
> > my relatively new to me 700c All-Rounder.  The rears are wonderful, if
> > not too powerful...  I can skid at will.  However, I'm experiencing
> > extreme shudder and fork flex on the front.
>
> > The headset is tight and the pads are toe'd to contact forward. Under
> > low to medium speed braking, I can see/feel  the fork flex (a lot!)
> > and shudder.  The straddle cable is set at about the top third of the
> > lower headset cup.  I've cleaned the rim and while it has gotten
> > slightly better with use, is this a matter of adjustment or is the neo-
> > retro too powerful?
>
> > One thing I noticed during installation is that the Paul brakes sit a
> > good bit higher on the studs than the Shimano's they replaced.  Could
> > this be contributing to the flex in the mounting studs and/or fork?
>
> > Any experience/advice is appreciated.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Saddle experiment

2010-08-22 Thread MikeC
I was just considering buying a Selle Anatomica instead of a B17 and
had few questions. I weigh just shy of the 180 lb limit for the
standard saddle. Since I have been reading about the stretching that
the leather does, would you recommend that I go with the clydesdale
version? Also, has anyone tried the version without the cut-out? It's
almost half the price of the cut-out version and I don't have a
problem with pressure up front. Does the cut-out provide significantly
more comfort under the sit bones by allowing increased flex?

Thanks,

-Mike C.

On Aug 21, 5:58 pm, Bruce  wrote:
> Since I first bought a Selle Anatomica from RBW, it's been my seat of choice. 
> I
> have them on 3 of the 4 bikes that call our garage "home." One of the saddles
> came used from another cyclist, and was already fully stretched out. My past
> experience with Selles is that once they get to that point, they stay there. 
> GP
> said the same thing in the advertising blurb back when Riv was selling them. I
> was surprised then on today's ride (to Fat Girl's BBQ Cafe, no less) when the
> seat stretcher bolt fell OUT and onto teh ground as I was riding. The saddle 
> was
> soaked with sweat and hammocked so that it was laying on top of the seatpost.
> No, there was no pain, just consternation. The leather LOOKS okay, and instead
> of sending $75 to re skin the frame back at the factory, I decided to go to 
> Home
> Depot instead. I came back with a 3 1/2" bolt to replace the 2" long fallen 
> out
> one. The Selle bolt has a custom head which gets a narrow hex socket inside a
> hole in the steel saddle nose piece. I knew I wouldn't find that, but came 
> back
> with a carriage bolt instead. I turned it up snug against the rounded inside
> portion of the nose piece and we'll see how it rides. If it's a bust, I'm out 
> a
> whopping $0.33 (inc tax)
>
> None of my other Selles have done this, btw.

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[RBW] FS or FT: Velo Orange Model 6 Saddle

2010-11-03 Thread MikeC
Selling a like-new saddle that is similar in style to a Brooks
Swallow. Black, chrome rails, mounted once and ridden three times
maybe 60 mi. total. Just doesn't work for me. $90 new, will sell for
$80 shipped. Will also consider trade for like-new VO Model 1 or 3,
Brooks B17, Pro, or Selle Anatomica without cutout. I don't have a
website, but can send photos.

-Mike Cinibulk
Bellbrook, Ohio

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[RBW] Re: Sam Hill complete, for now.

2010-03-23 Thread MikeC
I just posted in the other thread that I was told that Sally Henson,
Lacquer Shine, Glow 03 is a near perfect match. I haven't had a chance
to look into it myself.

-Mike

On Mar 23, 12:49 am, jandrews_nyc  wrote:
> Patrick
> Do you know the name of the Sally Hansen Green nail polish?
> is it a pretty good match?
> Thanks and the bike looks perfect..
> jason...
>
> On Mar 22, 5:30 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>
>
>
> >http://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#54515722204457...
>
> > Stand, computer; still need to touch up a couple of places where paint was
> > gouged; have Sally Hansen Green to do so. Will probably not bother to adjust
> > the rear fender that tiny little bit to reach fender arc perfection; this is
> > a beater, fer gosh sakes!
>
> > --
> > Patrick Moore
> > Albuquerque, NM
> > For professional resumes, contact
> > Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
> > (505) 227-0523- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Chipping Hillborne Green

2010-03-23 Thread MikeC
Dick Denning of the The Country Bike Shop in Celina, OH told me that
Sally Hanson, Lacquer Shine, Glow 03 is a near perfect match.

-Mike

On Mar 23, 11:08 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> Keven told me of a Sally Hansen brand green nail polish that matches. I've
> forgotten the number, but when the nice woman at Walgreen's showed me the
> Sally H collection, it shone brightly out at me from amongst its duller
> peers. The bottle has the number 4070-04 on it, but you can't miss the
> color.
>
> I have a couple of ripples and scuffs to touch up myself.
>
> Patrick Moore, still trying to remove the purple, orange and pearl nail
> polish on his thumbnails, put there by his daughter two weeks ago.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 23, 2010 at 8:17 AM, Adam  wrote:
> > Greetings all,
>
> > I have some nicks in the paint job on my green Sam Hillborne and have
> > heard rumors of a nail polish remedy.  Any idea of the specific brand,
> > color, or finish that is most approprite?
>
> > Thanks,
> > Adam
> > oceanm...@gmail.com
>
> > --
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>
> --
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, NM
> For professional resumes, contact
> Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
> (505) 227-0523- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Cantilever Brake issue on Hillborne

2010-04-16 Thread MikeC
I have a Sam Hill with Tektro CR720's. They have a brass bushing that
pivots on the canti post. There is a lot of play in the pivot due to
the bushing being larger in diameter and shorter in length than the
post, which means it can wobble back and forth and side ways. It does
not pose a problem when braking at moderate to high speed, but when
slowing to a stop at low speed, like coasting with the brakes on into
the driveway at a few MPH, the fork shutters almost uncontrollably.
This is a 60 cm SH so the cable stops is way above the brakes due to
the long headtube, but the issues is mostly slop in the pivots more so
than the issue that Leonard Zinn referred to due to th ecable stop
being way above the brakes.

Have any other SH owners run into this problem. I would imagine that
other Rivendell owners would also experience this assuming that the
same canti posts are likely used on all models. Any suggestions on how
to improve the situation, preferrably by reducing play at the pivots.
Otherwise, I really like the CR720 cantis with Kool Stop salmon pads.

Mike C.

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[RBW] Re: Cantilever Brake issue on Hillborne

2010-04-17 Thread MikeC
I find it strange that some SH owners have this issue while others
have not had an issue. My pads were installed flush, but they are
koolstop MTB pads with the the designed to provide tow-in
automatically. I get no squeal just the low-speed shudder.  I will
look into pad angle.

I am using the max straddle cable height allowed by the stock cable
that came with the CR720's. I will try increasing the spring tension.

But, the root cause, I believe is the considerable slop in the pivots,
which is then likely amplified by the long head tube atop which is the
cable stop a la Leonard Zinn's explanation. Is there anyway to shim
the pivot to reduce the space?

-Mike C

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[RBW] Re: RBW Saddle Height question

2010-04-20 Thread MikeC

PBH=94 cm, SH=83.5 cm at point of sit bones on B17 slammed all the way
back on seat post on my Sam Hill.

I like to use the method of putting the heels of your bare feet on the
pedals and setting seat height when your leg is fully extended at 6:00
position. For me, this works out to PBH- 10-11 cm and it automatically
takes into account any changes is seat fore/aft and seat angle.

-Mike

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[RBW] Re: New Bleriot Owner; Mushing thru turns

2010-04-22 Thread MikeC
I also weigh 175 lbs and I ride 700x35 pumped to 65 psi back/55 psi
front. Could probably go down to 55 in back, but I wouldn't want to
ride on 45 psi.

-MikeC

On Apr 22, 8:12 pm, Ray  wrote:
> So, as I mentioned, I purchased a cherry size 59 Bleriot from another
> list member two weeks back.  It came in a box last week, and I have
> been commuting on it this week.  Great fitting, comfortable bike. It's
> different than my other Riv's in that it rolls along on 650Bs and 35mm
> Col de la Vies.  Aside from my slow uptake on remembering to keep the
> inside pedal up when negotiating a turn (numerous bone-head pedal
> strikes to my discredit) the next strangest thing are the tires.  For
> those of you who ride with these Col de la Vie tires, do they feel,
> well, squishy to you in turns? I have the rear pumped up to 45 lbs,
> and the fronts to about 42.  When I corner, the rear feels like
> cornering with a flat tire, yet I check, and they are still inflated
> as per the sidewalls (max of 50).  I'm not the kid I used to be, but I
> still only weigh 175, and most of that is still distributed pretty
> much like it should be.  Any of you good folks have any thoughts on
> this?
>
> This weekend I'm converting the cockpit from drops and bar-ends to
> Albatross and thumbies.  I'll post pix then.
>
> Regards,
> Ray
>
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[RBW] Re: Cantilever Brake issue on Hillborne

2010-04-22 Thread MikeC

I wanted to follow-up and thank all for the discussion and
suggestions.

It turns out that although the pads were adjusted with slight tow-in
becuase of the large amount of play at the pivots when the brakes were
applied they were rotated toward the rim, which resulted in the pads
actually becoming "heel-in". I adjusted the pads with a 2 mm spacer to
get more exagerated toe-in, and it cured the shudder. This proves to
me that while a long fork tube/head tube may contribute to the canti
shudder, it requires other issues to initiate it. Obviously, closer
tolerances between canti pivot and post would help, such as on brakes
that come with a sleeve on which the cantis pivot, a la Paul's.

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[RBW] Re: SoCal Riv May 1 Riv Ride; Photos

2010-05-02 Thread MikeC
Dustin,

Great photos. Interesting ride statistics. How do you like the Garmin
500? How accurate is the altimeter?

-Mike

On May 1, 10:59 pm, Dustin Sharp  wrote:
> Seven turned out for today's SoCal Riv ride, riding everything from a Roadeo
> with Jack Browns, to a MTB singlespeed with 29x2.4 tires.
>
> 42 miles, 5600 feet of climbing, and about 80% of it on dirt. Temps in the
> high 60s.
>
> This was some of the best mixed-surface riding around. Paved road, dirt
> road, rough fireroad, and a little single track. Some pretty steep pitches,
> including one stretch of 21% grade dirt.
>
> Stats and map:
>
> http://connect.garmin.com/activity/31903053
>
> Pics:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/33769...@n04/sets/72157623847776549/
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dustin Sharp
> San Diego, Calif
>
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[RBW] Re: FS: Sam Hillborne, 56 cm, $2,600 shipped CONUS

2010-06-03 Thread MikeC
How do you know that Waterford built it? I thought that they only
built some of the orange ones and now the new ones that are coming
out. Is there something telling in the serial number?

Just curious, because i have a green Sam. While the build is
excellent, the paint is not up to Waterford standards.

Mike

On Jun 3, 5:52 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> Waterford built, cantis, was Riv's floor model until I bought it in March of
> this year. I've put fewer than 300 miles on it. Equipped as follows; photos
> athttp://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/ForSale#
>
> I need the money for a new Mac powerbook.
>
> Riv cheap wheels, front rebuilt with Shimano DN72 dynohub, 32X14g, rear
> rebuilt with 7 sp freehub body, 32X14 on stock hub, 15-32 five speed (I
> think it's a 15-17-19-21-26-32 but may be ... 24-28-32 six speed).
> Jack Brown Greens
> Velo Orange Fenders
> New Turbo saddle
> Nitto Technomic 10 cm stem
> Noodle bars, 46 cm with Riv's green twine bound, unlaquered cloth tape.
> Shimano brake levers pulling IRO cantis.
> Sugino X2D or XD2 26/36/46 crankset.
> Shimano M530 dual sided pedals.
> Tubus Logo rear rack.
> Nashbar front rack.
> Ostrich Bag with VO stem mount decaleur
> Silver bar end shifters.
> LX front and rear derailleurs.
> Sanyo halogen front headlight.
> PB Superflash and Spanninga fender mount battery rear lights.
> Flashlight auxiliary headlight attached to front fork braze on.
> Aluminum cages.
> Computer, a good one but forget make.
> Zefal HPX pump.
> VO 2-leg stand.
> Honka Hoota
>
> There are two small chips in the paint, both badly touched up with matching
> nail polish: one on top tube, one on fork leg. Both minor. Bike came that
> way.
>
> CONUS only.
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, NM
> For professional resumes, contact
> Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: Tektro CR720s on a Quickbeam

2010-06-09 Thread MikeC
I have the same issue with my Hillborne. I assume they use the same
studs as the QB. The problem is more radial slop than length-wise slop
as was previously mentioned. I had terrible brake shudder, because
when the brakes hit the rim, the cantis would rotate enough on the
stud to remove the little bit of toe-in that they had when not
engaged. I ended up re-postioning the pads with a lot of toe-in and
that solved the problem. Other than that issue, which I'm not sure is
due to the under sized stud or oversized brake bushing, I love the
CR720s.

On Jun 9, 10:06 am, Horace  wrote:-
> On Tue, Jun 8, 2010 at 10:38 PM, Philip Williamson
>
>
>
>
>
>  wrote:
> > I just changed out the stock Quickbeam brakes for Tektro CR720s, a
> > presumable upgrade.
>
> > However, the brakes have fore-aft play on the canti bosses, and make a
> > 'tank'ing noise when plucked. The bike makes the exact same noise when
> > I jink to the left.
>
> > So the bosses seem a shade too long for the brakes, both front and
> > rear
>
> > Has anyone else noticed this with the CR720?
> > Should I add a thin washer under the nut? Under the brake?
> > Is this the reason I get brake chatter on the front, or is that the
> > pads still being brand new?
> > Would moving the spring-end to the tighter hole keep the brakes from
> > rattling as much?
>
> > Also, regarding braking power, they seem the same as the old brakes.
> > They're high profile, so I've got a high cable yoke. It can't get much
> > higher. I want a stronger front brake with a higher yoke, since I
> > can't lower the stock low-profile brake's yoke any further, due to the
> > M12's mounting rod.
>
> Have you considered V-brakes? I tried the CR720 on my Quickbeam for a
> couple of years too, but recently switched to Avid Single Digit
> V-brakes (requires different levers or a Travel Agent). They do have a
> lot of stopping power.
>
> Horace.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Tektro CR720s on a Quickbeam

2010-06-10 Thread MikeC
I have been trying to come up with a way to minimize the radial slop
between the studs and canti pivots and just thought of trying to wind
the stud with Teflon tape. This would take up the space without
increasing friction. Has anyone tried this?

Mike

On Jun 9, 11:49 pm, Philip Williamson 
wrote:
> Thanks for these suggestions - I have V-brakes on my Bontrager with
> drops, and I love them. If I can't adjust the Tektros to be
> significantly better than the stock brakes, I'll just buy new pads for
> them and put them back on.
>
> The nice part of tracking the 'tinking' sound to the brakes was that
> now my saddle rails, seatpost and cranks are all greased and tight.
>
> I will try lowering the yoke on the front, and I'll toe the brakes
> more dramatically. I feel bad now for watching a CX race and wondering
> "what's wrong with these people's brakes/mechanics?" because 65% of
> the them would come diving into a turn with their forks going
> "gackgackgackgackgack." Now that's me.
>
>  Philip
> 97128
>
>
>
> MikeC wrote:
> > I have the same issue with my Hillborne. I assume they use the same
> > studs as the QB. The problem is more radial slop than length-wise slop
> > as was previously mentioned. I had terrible brake shudder, because
> > when the brakes hit the rim, the cantis would rotate enough on the
> > stud to remove the little bit of toe-in that they had when not
> > engaged. I ended up re-postioning the pads with a lot of toe-in and
> > that solved the problem. Other than that issue, which I'm not sure is
> > due to the under sized stud or oversized brake bushing, I love the
> > CR720s.
>
> > On Jun 9, 10:06 am, Horace  wrote:-
> > > On Tue, Jun 8, 2010 at 10:38 PM, Philip Williamson
>
> > >  wrote:
> > > > I just changed out the stock Quickbeam brakes for Tektro CR720s, a
> > > > presumable upgrade.
>
> > > > However, the brakes have fore-aft play on the canti bosses, and make a
> > > > 'tank'ing noise when plucked. The bike makes the exact same noise when
> > > > I jink to the left.
>
> > > > So the bosses seem a shade too long for the brakes, both front and
> > > > rear
>
> > > > Has anyone else noticed this with the CR720?
> > > > Should I add a thin washer under the nut? Under the brake?
> > > > Is this the reason I get brake chatter on the front, or is that the
> > > > pads still being brand new?
> > > > Would moving the spring-end to the tighter hole keep the brakes from
> > > > rattling as much?
>
> > > > Also, regarding braking power, they seem the same as the old brakes.
> > > > They're high profile, so I've got a high cable yoke. It can't get much
> > > > higher. I want a stronger front brake with a higher yoke, since I
> > > > can't lower the stock low-profile brake's yoke any further, due to the
> > > > M12's mounting rod.
>
> > > Have you considered V-brakes? I tried the CR720 on my Quickbeam for a
> > > couple of years too, but recently switched to Avid Single Digit
> > > V-brakes (requires different levers or a Travel Agent). They do have a
> > > lot of stopping power.
>
> > > Horace.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Late Evening Hillborne Questions

2010-06-24 Thread MikeC
Regarding (3): I mounted the VO 48 mm aluminum fenders on a 60 cm
Hillborne (700C) and had no problems. Width-wise they are a perfect
fit. I am currently running 35.5 mm wide tires and could safely go to
40 without any clearance issues, maybe even wider. I just used the
supplied hardware to mount them and space the fender away from the
kickstand mount with a few washers to give nice even spacing in the
back. Prior to installing the front you will want to indent the fender
where it mount under teh fork with daruma or whatever it's called. I
used a large socket from a socket wrench the same size as the daruma
washer and wacked it a few times with a hammer to start, then when you
tighten it with the bolt it continues to deform nicely and give  a
good tight fit.

Regarding (4) I used the BB that was provided with a Sugino XD2.

Mike
Bellbrook, OH

On Jun 24, 12:31 am, Thomas Lynn Skean 
wrote:
> Howdy, all y'all soon-to-be-fellow Hillborne owners!
>
> (I'm not suggesting all of you Gentle Readers are Hillborne owners or
> are about to become so; I'm addressing the existing Hillborne owners
> among you and indicating that *I* am about to acquire a Sam. Sorry if
> you got over-jazzed thinking you'd won some sweepstakes or something.)
>
> I'm going to build mine up. So of course I have some questions. 
>
> (1) Anyone out there using on a Sam the double-legged kickstand RBW
> sells? Any issues therewith?
>
> (2) Anyone using Pitlock seatpost skewer? How'd you make it work?
>
> (3) For you 700C-wheeled Sam owners: What if any fenders are you
> using? What tires? Any installation trickery required? How'd you
> attach at the fork crown? At the brake bridge?I'm trying to get a feel
> for the max size that'll work for various brands of both. For example,
> Berthoud's got those stainless fenders in what he calls 60mm; I'm
> wondering if those fit a 700C Sam? And what would be the max tire I
> could use? For the record: I presume/stipulate that plastichromolized
> SKS fenders (sold by Riv in 35 & 45; also available in 50) fit fine
> and mount in the normal ways.
>
> (4) What size is your BB spindle, if using an XD2? I think RBW
> indicates a 107. But I'm curious if any self-builders (or anybody)
> found that too tight.
>
> Any info, even quickly jotted and partial, is greatly appreciated. I
> don't mind doing some trial and error stuff. And I'm sure I will. But
> I figure somebody might've done some of it for me. Or is just smarter
> enough to have avoided it.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: Late Evening Hillborne Questions

2010-06-29 Thread MikeC
Thomas,

You are correct that I bought the 48 mm fluted. In the rear they fit
with about 1mm to spare between the chainstays. The 52 mm zeppelins
would require bending to get them to fit in that location. They may
fit between the seat stays and fork crown as is.

-Mike
Bellbrook, OH

On Jun 26, 5:51 am, Thomas Lynn Skean 
wrote:
> Hi, Ohio Mike!
>
> I presume you refer to the 48mm "fluted" fenders currently available
> from VO.
>
> http://www.velo-orange.com/vo48poflalfe.html
>
> Do you think the 52mm "zeppelin" fenders from VO would also fit on the
> bike?
>
> http://www.velo-orange.com/vopo52zefe70.html
>
> That is, do you think there's enough room between stays/blades to
> accomodate the extra 4mm?
>
> I like the fluted ones. But I like the zeppelins better. And I like
> even that small an amount of extra tire clearance.
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: New Sam H Builder

2010-07-08 Thread MikeC
I installed Velo Orange 48mm fluted profile aluminum fenders and
highly recommend them; they fit perfectly with maybe 1 mm to spare at
the chainstays. I am running 36 mm tires, but they should take up to
42 mm or so.

-Mike

On Jul 8, 1:32 pm, "Frederick, Steve" 
wrote:
> That'd be the one I'd recommend--they're 45mm wide.  I run a set on my 
> Rambouillet over 30mm tires with room to spare...
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/40738...@n08/4480404286/sizes/l/in/set-7...
>
> Steve
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
>
> [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com]on Behalf Of Michael_S
> Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 12:32 PM
> To: RBW Owners Bunch
> Subject: [RBW] Re: New Sam H Builder
>
> Jim, which Cascadia fender do you recommend for 700x33-35 tires?  the
> one labeled as "Hybrid"?
>
> And Peter... as a fellow Sam H owner... welcome to the club!   I'm
> running 700x38 Marathon Racers which work great on my Sam.
>
> ~Mike- fenderless in Socal~
>
> On Jul 8, 9:24 am, Esteban  wrote:
> > Fenders become necessary when you least expect it - like the light
> > rain last two mornings here in marine-layer inflicted July San Diego
> > (while the rest of the country roasts).
>
> > Put 'em on!
>
> > Esteban
> > San Diego, Calif.
>
> > On Jul 8, 7:56 am, Peter Pesce  wrote:
>
> > > That's what I like about this group. Any other place I'd be getting
> > > questions about my derailler set-up or how much my pedals weigh. Here
> > > - it's all about fenders!
> > > They are certainly on the list, though I'm going to get a roller
> > > bolted together as my first order of business.
>
> > > On Jul 8, 10:17 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
> > > wrote:
>
> > > > The sidepull brakes, in your case, will not be a limiting factor for
> > > > tire clearance. You should be able to do a 700x40 with a fender, and
> > > > probably 700x45 without fenders. Personally, I think the Planet Bike
> > > > Cascadia fenders are much nicer than the SKS fenders.
>
> > > > On Jul 7, 1:51 pm, Peter Pesce  wrote:
>
> > > > > Hi All-
>
> > > > > My first post here. I just purchased one of the last Taiwan Sam frames
> > > > > to build up. It's a 60cm set up for sidepull brakes. Yes, I know,
> > > > > cantis are better in every possible way, but I actually like the
> > > > > classic look of sidepulls. I'm planning on Tektro 556 brakes, so
> > > > > hopefully I won't give up too much in clearances!
> > > > > It will be a more of a "Sunday ride' bike for the time being, but I
> > > > > like that fact that a Sam can become anything I want down the road.
> > > > > I'm keeping it pretty classic and simple - Noodles, Brooks saddle,
> > > > > skinny 32mm Paselas (that will no doubt look lost in those brakes!)
> > > > > Seems like a fun group here. Looking forward to learning a lot.
>
> > > > > Cheers,
> > > > > Pete- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
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[RBW] Re: New blug question

2013-08-11 Thread MikeC

>
> I too prefer Lagavulin and find it be very well balanced. The other two 
> are a bit too one dimensional for me - read: all peat! 
>
 
-Mike 

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[RBW] Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-01 Thread MikeC
The website is vague regarding tubing thicknesses used. Does anyone know 
the exact dimensions? Just interested in data to compare my Hillborne with 
other bikes that I have.
 
Please don't reply with, "Doesn't matter, they all ride great" or 
somesuch
 
Thanks,
 
-Mike
 
SW Ohio

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[RBW] Re: Anyone got anything bad to say about your Schwalbe Marathon with Green Guards?

2012-10-03 Thread MikeC
Not to hijack this thread, but i want to put a plug in for a cheap 
alternative, which is the Michelin City that come with their version of 
Smart Guard. I have over 10k mi. on two sets, one 700x35 and the other 
26x1.85, with zero flats. Prior to using them I had some standard 
Performance Slicks in 26x1.50 and had 6 flats in the time. They seem to 
role well, but not as well as Paselas or other unguarded tire. I bought 
mine on sale at Performance for $17 each.
 
-Mike
Dayton, Ohio
 
 
On Tuesday, October 2, 2012 5:52:15 PM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:

> Before I pull the trigger on a set?
> I just can't get myself to pay for Panaracer Anythings after the bad run I 
> have had with them. So looks like I'm goin' Schwalbe, unless I get a run of 
> "beware"s from y'all.
>

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[RBW] Re: The New Green Sam

2011-07-20 Thread MikeC
Agree; this new green looks plain like the original Quickbeam or a
Coleman camp stove vs the old green which was metallic with gold
flecks, which I think looks great with the gold decals.

-Mike

On Jul 20, 5:52 pm, islaysteve  wrote:
> It's an OK green, but I don't like it as well as the original green, or the
> orange for that matter.  It's all academic to me, since I got my Bleriot.
>  I'm glad that the new Sams are in stock and I hope RBW sells them all.  I
> read an old interview with Grant online today, and have a better
> appreciation for the economics of the business.  Cheers to all, Steve

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[RBW] Tubing Specs for Riv Frames

2011-08-26 Thread MikeC
I was wondering if anyone has compiled a list of tubing specs for
Rivendell's frames. They all seem to use OS but what wall thicknesses,
heat treated, manufacturer, etc.?

Mike C

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