[RBW] Re: Frank Jones, Losco Bars

[Fryfam]

Ordered mine from Blue Lug as well. Great shop.

On Tuesday, April 14, 2020 at 7:36:33 AM UTC-7, Arthur Mayfield wrote:
>
>
> Nice Build! I have Loscos on my FJSr as well, although I chose a shorter 
> stem and lopped off an inch or so of the handlebars instead. Love these 
> bars, and love the sexy curves. Even though they're OOS at Riv, they appear 
> to still be available from Blue Lug. That's where I got mine, well before 
> Riv carried them.
> nitto-losco-bar-silver.html 
> 
>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Causes for bike noises

[Fryfam]

Creaky Campy Record cranks... until I learned that square taper campy bb 
spindles prefer dry assembly (or with the smallest amount of grease) and a 
recommended torque of 70nm!!! Haven't had any creaky issues since (500 
miles + and still going strong)


On Friday, May 1, 2020 at 1:31:12 PM UTC-7, Clark Fitzgerald wrote:
>
> Sheldon Brown has a great article on Creaks, Clicks, & Clunks 
> .
>
> Yesterday I fixed an annoying ticking noise that happened on most crank 
> rotations, but only in warm weather. The culprit turned out to be the 
> pedals, which I forgot to grease when I installed new pedals on new cranks. 
> Another bike I had (not a Rivendell) had a bad creaking noise that turned 
> out to be from the square taper bottom bracket that was installed at the 
> factory without grease.
>
> I'm curious- what annoying noises have others fixed on their bikes? What 
> caused it?
>

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[RBW] Re: Causes for bike noises

[Fryfam]

70nm for the bb cups, that is. More like 32nm (with grease) for the crank 
bolts. A good lesson in following manuf torque and process recs when 
conflicting info exists online.

On Saturday, May 2, 2020 at 5:04:51 PM UTC-7, Fryfam wrote:
>
> Creaky Campy Record cranks... until I learned that square taper campy bb 
> spindles prefer dry assembly (or with the smallest amount of grease) and a 
> recommended torque of 70nm!!! Haven't had any creaky issues since (500 
> miles + and still going strong)
>
>
> On Friday, May 1, 2020 at 1:31:12 PM UTC-7, Clark Fitzgerald wrote:
>>
>> Sheldon Brown has a great article on Creaks, Clicks, & Clunks 
>> <https://www.sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html>.
>>
>> Yesterday I fixed an annoying ticking noise that happened on most crank 
>> rotations, but only in warm weather. The culprit turned out to be the 
>> pedals, which I forgot to grease when I installed new pedals on new cranks. 
>> Another bike I had (not a Rivendell) had a bad creaking noise that turned 
>> out to be from the square taper bottom bracket that was installed at the 
>> factory without grease.
>>
>> I'm curious- what annoying noises have others fixed on their bikes? What 
>> caused it?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: bike recs for my son

[Fryfam]

Others examples:

https://www.pedalroom.com/bike/miyata-sportcross-allroad-34899
https://www.flickr.com/photos/teesquare/4431101404/in/album-72157623880906504/

On Wednesday, May 6, 2020 at 1:46:51 PM UTC-7, Fryfam wrote:
>
> Something inexpensive along the lines of my brother's old Miyata 
> Sportcross grocery-runner might fit the bill. Was updated slightly from 
> stock for a 3-week touring trip he took last year. Fit 135mm-spaced modern 
> wheels with 42mm Schwalbe rubber without trouble. Plenty of early-mid 90s 
> steel hybridity floating around Craigslist / Facebook... a couple photos 
> just before it found another owner:
>
> [image: 1(1).jpg]
>
> [image: _SDI1448final.jpg]
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 6:51:49 AM UTC-7, redsf wrote:
>>
>> Hello!
>>   We've been riding and following riv bikes for a long time- or at least 
>> the adults in the family.  My son's first real bike was a used trek (maybe 
>> 850) with a rear rack and baskets- he was thus able to help with the 
>> groceries and was of an age where that seemed like a cool thing.  The bike 
>> was stolen (along with a purple riv Glorius- and recovered with the help of 
>> this community, but that's another story). For his second bike, he had some 
>> of his own aesthetic values and we built up an old Marin mtn bike that had 
>> been left for dead.
>>   He loves his knobby tires and doing wheelies, but now he's also eyeing 
>> old road bikes and drop down handlebars. We're in San Francisco and we've 
>> been dashing out for rides up Twin Peaks and out to the beach.  We could 
>> find something without too much trouble on craigslist, but I want a frame 
>> with enough stability for a rack- we go bike camping a couple times a year.
>>   So we basically need a riv type bike that looks fast.  I can't justify 
>> or afford spending too much money on a growing kid and would love another 
>> project.  He's almost 5'8" and in sixth grade (tall!).
>>   Anybody have something kicking around in SF? Recommendations for some 
>> models and years I should keep my eye out for? 
>> Thanks!
>> TR
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: bike recs for my son

[Fryfam]

Other examples:
https://www.pedalroom.com/bike/miyata-sportcross-allroad-34899
https://www.flickr.com/photos/teesquare/4431101404/in/album-72157623880906504/

On Wednesday, May 6, 2020 at 1:46:51 PM UTC-7, Fryfam wrote:
>
> Something inexpensive along the lines of my brother's old Miyata 
> Sportcross grocery-runner might fit the bill. Was updated slightly from 
> stock for a 3-week touring trip he took last year. Fit 135mm-spaced modern 
> wheels with 42mm Schwalbe rubber without trouble. Plenty of early-mid 90s 
> steel hybridity floating around Craigslist / Facebook... a couple photos 
> just before it found another owner:
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 6:51:49 AM UTC-7, redsf wrote:
>>
>> Hello!
>>   We've been riding and following riv bikes for a long time- or at least 
>> the adults in the family.  My son's first real bike was a used trek (maybe 
>> 850) with a rear rack and baskets- he was thus able to help with the 
>> groceries and was of an age where that seemed like a cool thing.  The bike 
>> was stolen (along with a purple riv Glorius- and recovered with the help of 
>> this community, but that's another story). For his second bike, he had some 
>> of his own aesthetic values and we built up an old Marin mtn bike that had 
>> been left for dead.
>>   He loves his knobby tires and doing wheelies, but now he's also eyeing 
>> old road bikes and drop down handlebars. We're in San Francisco and we've 
>> been dashing out for rides up Twin Peaks and out to the beach.  We could 
>> find something without too much trouble on craigslist, but I want a frame 
>> with enough stability for a rack- we go bike camping a couple times a year.
>>   So we basically need a riv type bike that looks fast.  I can't justify 
>> or afford spending too much money on a growing kid and would love another 
>> project.  He's almost 5'8" and in sixth grade (tall!).
>>   Anybody have something kicking around in SF? Recommendations for some 
>> models and years I should keep my eye out for? 
>> Thanks!
>> TR
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: bike recs for my son

[Fryfam]

Other examples:

https://www.pedalroom.com/bike/miyata-sportcross-allroad-34899
https://www.flickr.com/photos/teesquare/4431101404/in/album-72157623880906504/

On Wednesday, May 6, 2020 at 1:46:51 PM UTC-7, Fryfam wrote:
>
> Something inexpensive along the lines of my brother's old Miyata 
> Sportcross grocery-runner might fit the bill. Was updated slightly from 
> stock for a 3-week touring trip he took last year. Fit 135mm-spaced modern 
> wheels with 42mm Schwalbe rubber without trouble. Plenty of early-mid 90s 
> steel hybridity floating around Craigslist / Facebook... a couple photos 
> just before it found another owner:
>
> [image: 1(1).jpg]
>
> [image: _SDI1448final.jpg]
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 6:51:49 AM UTC-7, redsf wrote:
>>
>> Hello!
>>   We've been riding and following riv bikes for a long time- or at least 
>> the adults in the family.  My son's first real bike was a used trek (maybe 
>> 850) with a rear rack and baskets- he was thus able to help with the 
>> groceries and was of an age where that seemed like a cool thing.  The bike 
>> was stolen (along with a purple riv Glorius- and recovered with the help of 
>> this community, but that's another story). For his second bike, he had some 
>> of his own aesthetic values and we built up an old Marin mtn bike that had 
>> been left for dead.
>>   He loves his knobby tires and doing wheelies, but now he's also eyeing 
>> old road bikes and drop down handlebars. We're in San Francisco and we've 
>> been dashing out for rides up Twin Peaks and out to the beach.  We could 
>> find something without too much trouble on craigslist, but I want a frame 
>> with enough stability for a rack- we go bike camping a couple times a year.
>>   So we basically need a riv type bike that looks fast.  I can't justify 
>> or afford spending too much money on a growing kid and would love another 
>> project.  He's almost 5'8" and in sixth grade (tall!).
>>   Anybody have something kicking around in SF? Recommendations for some 
>> models and years I should keep my eye out for? 
>> Thanks!
>> TR
>>
>

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[RBW] Looking for a zero offset Thomson seatpost

[Fryfam]

Anyone have a 27.0 Thomson zero offset seatpost they'd be willing to sell 
and ship to me in Seattle? Need something for my old Centurion tourer - to 
bring my aging self just a little closer to the handlebars... ;-/
thx

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[RBW] Re: New batch of Sam Hillbornes this fall.

[Fryfam]

My 58cm Fuji TSV had a 56cm top tube. My 58cm Romani a 55.5cm top tube. 
Best fitting bikes I've owned. Would love to see a Sam with a slightly 
shorter top tube. I believe there would be interest in such geo given the 
seemingly (?) growing market for shorty stems... and a 100mm Nitto looks 
wayy better than a 60mm imo. The fact that 0mm stems have to exist 
blows my mind, though I am thankful Analog is producing something people 
clearly want. my 2 pennies!

On Saturday, May 16, 2020 at 5:29:13 PM UTC-7, Grady Wright wrote:
>
> The Email Newsletter from Rivendell yesterday mentioned Sam Hillbornes are 
> coming later this year and maybe in an older Rivendell color. Any guesses 
> what that color could be?

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[RBW] Re: Looking for a zero offset Thomson seatpost

[Fryfam]

Just did, let me know if my PM fails to arrive

On Monday, May 18, 2020 at 10:52:08 PM UTC-7, Clayton Scott wrote:
>
> I think I do. It would be black though. PM me your contact if of interest.
>
> Clayton Scott
> HbG, CA
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New batch of Sam Hillbornes this fall.

[Fryfam]

For those of us with short torsos and long legs, and a strong preference 
for drop bars, 2cm can make a huge difference in comfort over a 3-4 hr ride

Market interest in custom or limited release stems seems mostly fueled by 
the overabundance of long TT framesets in a world moving in the direction 
of uprighteousness, drop bar or not

re: color, would pretty much love any light shade of green

On Tuesday, May 19, 2020 at 9:35:49 AM UTC-7, Dave Johnston wrote:
>
> I think MTB's were steered to long top tube short stem route because 
> of Fat 29er wheels and long travel suspension. Doesn't mean it doesn't 
> work well, but it's not unheard of for the bicycle world to sell a 
> compromise as a feature. Maybe 650b wheels are the better compromise? 
>
> I admit to being one of those people a few years back that would 
> declare a bike too big or too small because of +/-1cm differences in 
> the top tube and +/-2cm in the seat tube. This attitude was super 
> common on Ibob a few years ago. Nowadays if I can straddle the top 
> tube and the stem I need is commonly available then I'm mostly OK with 
> the design. Custom or limited release stems and I start to think 
> twice. 
>
> On 5/19/20, Patrick Moore > wrote: 
> > It seems that many riders are very happy with short stems and bars 
> > compensating for longer top tubes. I'd have to try such a combination 
> > before I paid for one, but it seems there are many different ways to 
> skin a 
> > cat -- so to speak. And now I recollect that modern mountain bikes have 
> > similar design qualities; interesting that the new Atlantis and 
> > Hillborns(?) are following that design trend. 
> > 
> > At any rate, the older, short-top-tube / long stem and bar also works 
> > impeccably for dirt road; perhaps one differentiating criterion is 
> whether 
> > your riding is more road or more singletrack biased? 
> > 
> > -- 
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>
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>
> > 
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[RBW] Re: Looking for a zero offset Thomson seatpost

[Fryfam]

Appreciate hearing about your experience, Bill. If looking for a cheapo 
post for the sake of experimentation there's always Origin8.

Probably worth noting that not everyone feels the same about zero setback:
http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2011/12/on-seatpost-setback-and-related-matters.html

Analog’s stance, which seems to follow prevalent attitudes and perhaps 
fuels 0mm stem interest:
https://www.analogcycles.com/zero-offset-seatposts-make-zero-sense-mostly/

Let’s not forget Steve Hogg (IBFI):
https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/05/seat-set-back-for-road-bikes/

There are few hard / fast rules regarding bike fit that I follow. A big YES 
on cockpit experimentation to find one's optimal riding position (ideally 
established over yrs of micro tuning) on various cycling machines from 
different eras and with unique geos. Zero setback works perfectly for me 
*on a few of my bikes*. I’m 155-lbs, pbh ~35.5” and 5’11”… so even with an 
inline post my weight is distributed quite evenly within my 
semi-aero-levered “masters” cockpit. Most of my rides these days are 2.5-4 
hours in length w/ average speeds of 18mph.

In any case, zero setback in the 27.0 diameter is very difficult to come by 
as of late, given global shipping restrictions.

Always up for Seattle rides with new friends...



On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 10:22:41 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> This is obvious and self-evident to a lot of people, but is 
> counter-intuitive to a lot of people: slamming your saddle forward to fix a 
> reach problem will often make your problem worse rather than better.  If 
> your bars are too far away, and you are 'hunched over' too much, slamming 
> your saddle forward also pushes your weight forward, so now you will have a 
> lot more weight on your hands, making your hands, elbows, shoulders, neck 
> and upper back all worse off.  
>
> Most road bikes from the 1980s have way too steep seat tubes, and require 
> you to slam the seat all the way back, often with an extra laid back 
> seatpost, to get your bum back as far back as it ought to be.  When that 
> weight distribution is right, you should be able to just lay your hands on 
> the handlebars.  If you are bent over too far when your saddle is in the 
> right position, then the right way to fix that is to get the bars up.  
> Slamming the saddle forward on a 1980s road bike would destroy my 
> shoulders.  It makes my neck tense even thinking about it.  
>
> It's worth experimenting with a zero-offset seatpost if you don't mind the 
> expense of it.  Just know that you may find that you've made things worse 
> rather than better.  
>
> On Monday, May 18, 2020 at 10:45:35 PM UTC-7, Fryfam wrote:
>>
>> Anyone have a 27.0 Thomson zero offset seatpost they'd be willing to sell 
>> and ship to me in Seattle? Need something for my old Centurion tourer - to 
>> bring my aging self just a little closer to the handlebars... ;-/
>> thx
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Commuter Tire for Hunq

[Fryfam]

Have you looked at the Schwalbe G One Speed version? Love these light and 
supple tires (I use 35 and 38 widths); have yet to experience a flat. 
OneStar compound far superior ime: 
https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/G-ONE_Speed

On Wednesday, June 10, 2020 at 11:20:32 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Jonathan: If the OP doesn't want them, I may want them.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1. Are these 700C or 650B?
>
> 2. What model of G One are these? I am looking for the very lightest, 
> thinnest, most flat-prone model.
>
> 3. If 700C and lightest, and if you should consider selling to me, how 
> much would you want shipped to 87120?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Patrick Moore
>
> On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 11:18 AM Jonathan D.  > wrote:
>
>> I have an unused pair of Schwalbe G ones, 60 mm if interested and they 
>> fit. 
>>
>> -- 
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>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: In Praise of Road Bikes with Road Tires

[Fryfam]

Super Tourist tubing or not, no doubt that long TT enhances the flex-magic 
for your 165-lb, long torso-ed body geo. nice ride!

On Tuesday, June 9, 2020 at 2:01:01 PM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
> Yeah Ted it seems I do prefer frames that have some flex in the right 
> places. The 531ST tubes are intended for touring, slightly thicker wall 
> diameter than the regular 531. OF course I know nothing of designing bikes, 
> but thankfully the designer/builder does and he would not do something he 
> wasn't comfortable with. Tall head tube, yes, I've seen taller ! Fork flex 
> is in the blades. 
>
> In regards to the tubing, 531 seems to have a kind of PFM status... pure 
> f'n magic for their ride characteristics. 
>
> https://www.bretonbikes.com/homepage/cycling-article-blog/87-reynolds-531-tubing-the-cycle-tourists-friend
>
> My takeaway from all this is that in this case a "lively" frame will feel 
> that way with large of range of tire quality whereas a frame that isn't 
> so lively, even with specifically "supple" tires isn't going to compensate 
> for it's not so liveliness. Improve the ride, yes. 
>
> I can see how those that have both a lively frame and supple tires would 
> find it blissful !  
>
> At 165lbs or so I would have to go really low on the Bomba to get a pinch 
> flat as I naturally ride "light" over things. I have Big Ben 50 on there 
> now @25-30 psi. I'll try lowering them off the pavement and see how it 
> goes. As for other tires  man it's like pie in the sky. They all look 
> good from afar ! Ahahaha !
>
> In regards to George's mishap, I've heard him account what happened a 
> couple of times and what failed was the Trek frames carbon steering tube. 
> He was trying to land softly to the left when it was happening but since 
> the failure happened so fast he was a mere passenger. This was the early 
> days of carbon frame construction. 
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, June 9, 2020 at 1:15:53 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
>>
>> My Bombadil has Pacenti Quasi-Moto tires. I would think any non uber 
>> stout 2 inch tire would behave much the same in this respect.
>> I have another more roadish bike with 47mm tires (wtb byway) I run at 
>> ~25psi when I want things cushy. That one does fairly well off road as well.
>> Keep in mind at 20 psi, 2 psi is 10%. Do the fat bike crowd run pressures 
>> down in the single digits?
>> My rules of thumb are: 
>>If your tires aren't soaking up bumps the way you want, lower the 
>> pressure, then lower it some more until they are. (too low may not be low 
>> enough)
>>If you start getting pinch flats in the process, get bigger tires. 
>> (got the first classic pinch flat of my life yesterday, guess I should try 
>> 28mm tires on that bike)
>>If you feel like your tires have too much rolling resistance, shop for 
>> more supple tires.
>> I think that approach can produce satisfactory results for a lot of folks 
>> without going beyond 28-33 mm tires. Despite the current popularity of 
>> "wider is better" and asking "how wide is too wide?" there can be wisdom in 
>> asking "how wide is wide enough?".
>> Typically it seems like tires are so much more compliant than even "std. 
>> diameter" thin wall tubing, that softer tires dominate wrt vertical 
>> compliance. Sounds like for you, not so much. First time for everything I 
>> suppose.
>> I expect you are aware there are folks who only like more flexible extra 
>> thin walled "standard" diameter tubed frames. Perhaps you do too. It's good 
>> to know what one likes.
>> I hope the stress levels in your fork blades are well below the fatigue 
>> limit for steel. Also that's a tall head tube, perhaps some of the flex in 
>> your fork is in the steerer tube?
>> Have you seen the video of Hincapie in Paris Roubaix sitting bolt upright 
>> with his disconnected bars in his hand as he veered into the ditch and 
>> separated his shoulder?
>>
>> I think the handling of my Bombadil is somewhat different than my other 
>> bikes, I like it a lot for riding the hills in my local open spaces. Prefer 
>> other bikes for riding on roads though.
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: 1x drivetrain question

[Fryfam]

+1 on the recommendation for a narrow wide chainring. 

I have two 90s bikes with this config:
1) A Miyata mtb with a 4-bolt Wolf Tooth style narrow wide 32t chain ring 
(104mm), deore cranks, m591 Deore rd and 9-speed Dura Ace bar end shifter 
in friction mode
2) Paramount mtb with a 5-bolt Race Face narrow wide 40t chain ring 
(130mm), Ultegra 6500 cranks, xt trigger shifter and m771 xt rd

Both feature a 11-34t cassette. Shifting on both is crisp and smooth, but I 
prefer the 40t narrow wide for speed reasons.

https://www.bikecalc.com/gear_speed

Good luck!



On Sunday, March 22, 2020 at 9:15:58 AM UTC-7, Lithocarpus wrote:
>
> I’m considering setting up my MIT Atlantis with a 1x system and was 
> interested to know if anyone here has done this, what components you used, 
> and if the chain stay length caused any complications. So far, I’m 
> considering a 11x50 SunRace cassette, SRAM eagle GX derailleur, chain, and 
> trigger shifter, but am hoping to use my existing Silver crankset. It’s a 
> triple, but I think the middle chainring position would be aligned 
> correctly. If that crank works, I’d likely throw a guard on it. Long term, 
> I’m interested in a White Industries crankset, but that’s further down the 
> road.
>
> What are your experiences ?  Attached image of the current set up. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Wald Bag

[Fryfam]

Hard to beat Wald or Carradice.

Swift is overpriced but great marketing, imo. I'll probably get criticized 
for saying so... 

On Tuesday, April 7, 2020 at 10:00:22 AM UTC-7, Dave Grossman wrote:
>
> Yes it is $60 shipped with the full basket and mounting struts and a bag!  
>

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[RBW] Re: What have you learned during the isolation?

[Fryfam]

I've experienced, in cycling all over Seattle over the last couple weeks 
(as well as during a trip last week to LA), a glimpse into a futuristic low 
carbon economy where an abundance of fresh air exists in the dirtiest of 
metropolises. Unreal!

( there's a nasa study floating around showing densely populated areas in 
China with 30% lower levels than usual of nitrogen dioxide )


On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 4:20:52 PM UTC-7, aeroperf wrote:
>
>
> It’s the first time I’ve started a thread, but I’d be interested to hear 
> about what you’ve learned that’s new to you.
>
> I live on a 93 mile bike trail that’s now closed.   The bike trail, being 
> rails-to-trails, had no corners (or real hills).  So for five years I’ve 
> been cranking away in relatively straight lines.
>
> Now that I’m riding 4 laps through a small neighborhood, I’m learning how 
> to take corners at speed without pedal strikes.
> My 2015 Sam had no problem.  My 2019 Homer taught me that you had to 
> either open up the corner a little or “outside foot down, inside foot up” 
> coast through it.  They have the same 170mm crank arms, so it is probably 
> both the bottom bracket drop and the smaller wheels - 650 vs 700 - that put 
> me lower.  And 15mph might not be “speed” for others, but it is interesting 
> in tight quarters for me.
>
> So what have you learned?  Riding Zwift is fun?  Riding solo is no fun?  
> Cleaning clothes is easier without chain grease?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Wavie Bar vs. Billie Bar for conversion

[Fryfam]

Haven't used either but I can vouch for the abundance of possible hand 
positions on the Albatross or Choco, which are somewhat similar to the 
Billie (maybe slightly more aero due to less "outsweep"?). Prefer the 
Albatross which is currently on my early 90s Miyata mtb: 32t up front and 
11-34t in the rear allows for 20-23mph on the flats / near flats at 100rpms 
with my Compass RTPs. Usually I'm going considerably slower. Cruising down 
steep Seattle hills in my North Face puffer jacket is super fun and not 
aero.

On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 7:42:39 AM UTC-7, Mario Rocchio wrote:
>
> I’m looking into converting my Black Mountain Road+ into a flat at bike 
> and was wondering if anyone has experience with both the Wavie Bar and 
> Billie Bar. Obviously the Billie has a lot more back sweep but I’m curious 
> how they compare in terms of different hand positions (for long 
> rides/brevets) and off road riding (nor crazy technical). 
>
> I’m currently running the 62cm Crust Towel Rack, for reference. Looking to 
> have both a comfy upright position and a slightly more aggressive/“aero” 
> position for on the road/in the wind. 
>
> Also if anyone has either of these bars for sale, let me know. :) 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: budget drive train suggestions

[Fryfam]

Nice, AM25 works.

On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 7:50:24 PM UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
> Try these codes on the pacenti items, wheels and quick relese. It worked 
> for me not long ago.
>
> AM25 = 25% of general goods
> AMW100 = $100 off aluminum wheels
>
>
>
> On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 9:13:29 PM UTC-4, Justin Wyne wrote:
>>
>> I've been swapping parts back and forth on my Sam H. and Appaloosa for 
>> the past year never having enough parts to have 2 full bikes built. But 
>> I've recently moved back east to help my aging folks out during these 
>> precarious times, and I'd like to leave the Appaloosa how it is with my 
>> current parts for my dad to ride once it becomes safe again. So I'm left 
>> with a the Sam sans wheels, crankset, cassette, derailleurs. I'f it weren't 
>> such lean times I'd have much more confidence buying exactly what I want 
>> but at the moment I can't spend $220+ on a crankset alone, I'd rather find 
>> something used on ebay and get the whole drive train fro around $220. Sound 
>> crazy? If anyone thinks not please send suggestion this way. I'm happy to 
>> expose my ignorance on the subject
>>
>> I'm interested in a double crank, something like 44/30 and hopefully 10 
>> speed cassette
>>
>> I've been recommended this wheelset by a friend who knows way more than I 
>> do, I don't know much about them but they seem solid. 
>>
>>
>> https://pacenticycledesign.com/products/brevet-wheel-set-700c-rim-brake?variant=18848334577733
>>
>> Thanks for looking
>>
>>
>>

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