[RBW] Re: Tall Arm V-Brakes

[Adam Leibow]

I had the 32F rack mounted on my sam hillborne successfully with deore V 
brakes, but I am *guessing* this only worked because of the smaller tire 
clearance which equated to shorter distance between fork crown and brake 
stud. 

On Thursday, April 23, 2020 at 5:14:44 PM UTC-7, j.schwartz wrote:
>
> I have some old Tektro V's from the box that I put on my Clem since they 
> were laying around.
> I can not install my Nitto Front rack because the arms aren't tall enough 
> to clear the fork crown mount. ..see pic.
> So I took the rack off, but I think it's a less expensive project for me 
> to replace the front brake then find another rack solution.
> I know Riv is working on a V brake but that could be awhile...
> Who makes the tallest arm V brakes (Not Paul please) I want to keep this 
> pretty budgety.
> Should I look at newer Tektro's, Shimano's, anything else?
> See pics
> Thanks so much  
>

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[RBW] Re: Is the Clem a Hillibike?

[Adam Leibow]

it depends how skilled your friends are VS. how skilled you are. the clem H 
is more than capable of riding fast technical stuff. i've done some fast 
technical offroad rides on my clem L no problem. i would argue suspension 
only helps if you are absolutely FLYING downhill. i know ive shared this 
video ad nauseam but this was shot on the clem L if it helps for reference: 
https://www.instagram.com/p/B2LYQMQlCdZ/


On Wednesday, May 6, 2020 at 11:01:47 PM UTC-7, theenchantingwizardofrhythm 
wrote:
>
> Hi there - first time poster 
> and coming at you from Tel Aviv, possibly(?) the only Riv owner this side 
> of Mesopotamia...
>
> I got myself a 59 Clem H which I love oh so dearly
> My friends, equipped with hard-tail mountain-bikey-bikes, are going out 
> for a couple day off-rode ride that includes some singletrack.
> They say I probably can't hang with the Clem.
>
> So what do you think?
> Should I go out confident that the silver steed will hold its own?
> or am I setting myself up for a world of pain and a bruised bike? 
>
> Many thanks,
> gk
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Will Mini Motos fit a MTB tire?

[Adam Leibow]

biggest i'd go is 45-48mm. after that the top of the tire is uncomfortably 
close to the cable, if not touching it. 

On Friday, May 22, 2020 at 3:28:32 PM UTC-7, wood chuck wrote:
>
> No question about Motolites, but will the Minis clear a standard 2" 
> knobby? Say like a Smoke/Dart combo. Want to change my brakes but not my XC 
> Pro levers. Anybody tried this? All they talk about on Paul's site is CX 
> tires.
>

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[RBW] WTB: 650b wheelset on the lighter side (100/135 space)

[Adam Leibow]

hi yall

i would like to see what you got. ideal would be something like velocity 
a23 or mavic open pro laced to shimano LX or something like that. i would 
also accept a velocity synergy or atlas (slightly wider/beefier rim OK - 
but cliffhangers would be too much).  i am hoping to spend as close to $200 
as possible. local pickup in bay area preferred but i can pay for shipping 
too depending on how it affects the overall cost. 

thanks in advance! please shoot me a text if you have something

adam (310) 9siksthree siks nien fiev nien


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[RBW] Re: Going from Sam (60cm to New Atlantis (59cm) - asking the unaskable: how will the New Atlantis feel?

[Adam Leibow]

i have the new MIT atlantis and it's a joy to pedal despite not being the 
fastest bike out there. i had a sam which was slightly svelter/faster but 
still not the zippiest bike. i got the atlantis cause i wanted a riv all 
arounder/MTB more than i wanted a "light touring" bike like the sam. if 
you're riding trails you'll love the atlantis. 

On Tuesday, April 28, 2020 at 6:41:29 PM UTC-7, JP wrote:
>
>
> (As I mentioned previously i thought i "needed" a new bike but don't.  
> However, it was too late I wanted a new bike.)
>
> I had always planned on getting a 63 MUSA Homer, but I just bought a New 
> Atlantis frame based on the following logic:
>
> 1. The best bike i've ridden has been the my dads Homer 63 cm Toyo.  
> 2. I've loved my Sam but i always like how the Homer was bigger (and it 
> felt longer).  The new bikes in the running (New Homer, New Atlantis and 
> Appaloosa) are all even longer than the 63cm Homer
> 3. Shell ridge is very close to where i live and i would be interested in 
> riding there.
> 4. Even if I was going to get the New Homer, it's sold out in my size.
> 4. Will @ RBW said an Appaloosa with Homer sized tires will feel more like 
> a "Homer" than a Homer with big tires would.
> 5. Appaloosa is also sold out.
> 6. New Atlantis even longer and sturdier 
>
> I'm possibly going to cannibalize the Sam and then sell the frame, the 
> silver sidepull brakes, and possibly the crank if RBW can't help me get a 
> 1-1 ratio out the small ring.  Or sell to family member.
>
> My brother has a 62 hunq and it doesn't feel a little heavier to ride than 
> the homer, but not dramatically so.  I've read the "weight thread" and I 
> still don't feel like i know the answer and so i thought it would ask 
>
> *Is the New Atlantis going to fill "heavy" compared to a Sam or Homer?*
>
> JP
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Next Level Clementine

[Adam Leibow]

Cool story! It's awesome that that shop was able to appreciate the bike, 
and took such care in doing the work. That is a really nice build. That 
being said, I can't imagine how much you spent on all this! One reason I am 
able to afford the bikes I have is I can build them myself, which is a huge 
savings. Just a thought. 

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[RBW] WTB/ISO: Nitto UI-12 stem, 80mm or 70mm extension.

[Adam Leibow]

Hi RBW GG, 

As title mentions, I am looking for a Nitto UI-12 stem (quill stem for use 
with 31.8mm bar clamp dia.) in either 80mm or 70mm. The 90mm I have is just 
slightly too long on my new Homer. 

Let me know what you got. Thanks!

-Adam

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[RBW] Re: 59cm Atlantis (current model)

[Adam Leibow]

Hi Bryan,

If Steve is correct that your PBH is 87.5cm, then you and I have the same 
exact PBH figure. I have owned both the 59cm MIT Atlantis and now own the 
55cm MIT Atlantis. The 59 is a BIG 59. I was able to fit well but had less 
than 1cm of standover (with big 2.3" tires). 

I sold it and later replaced it with the 55, which is a better fit FOR ME 
as a mountain bike. I am 5'-9" tall with very long legs for my height. How 
tall are you? The 59cm might suit you better in the reach department if you 
are lanky, but if you are wary of minimal standover then 55 or 56 might be 
more appropriate. 

Feel free to reach out if you have specific questions since my experience 
might be relevant to you.

-Adam



On Monday, June 15, 2020 at 7:22:21 AM UTC-7, Bryan Quinn wrote:
>
> Hello- I’m wondering if anyone on this list would be kind enough to point 
> me in a direction where I can find the current standover height for the 
> 59cm Atlantis. The table provided by Rivendell seems to leave it blank, at 
> least the ones I have seen. I do realize there is some variation based on 
> tire size so there is no perfect answer, just trying to get close. I’ve 
> been able to use a website called “bike insights” to compare a 59cm 2019 
> Atlantis with my current non-Rivendell bike, but I’m not sure how accurate 
> it is. Thank you! 

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[RBW] Re: Looking for Brooks C17

[Adam Leibow]

I have a C17S (s is for short) in natural. It's missing a Rivet but 
otherwise good condition. Contact me if you want it! 

On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 3:14:27 PM UTC-7, Carla Waugh wrote:
>
> Let me know if you have one. Thanks

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[RBW] Re: Locking Up your Riv

[Adam Leibow]

I have several locks including the Bordo I bought from Riv. The Bordo is 
great since it's more substantial than any cable lock (in that bolt cutters 
won't be enough to get through it). I use it as the sole lock only in 
"light" lockup situations (areas I feel safe in and for short periods of 
time). I live in SF, so usually my lockup situations are "heavy" such that 
the Bordo is supplementary to at least one U-lock and I have to strongly 
consider whether I can lock up the bike at all. In summary, it's a great 
lock whether it's the only lock needed or one of several needed. 

On Wednesday, May 27, 2020 at 9:04:50 AM UTC-7, Vincent Tamer wrote:
>
> So I notice the Abus Bordo came back in stock on the Riv site. Does anyone 
> have any experience with this lock?
>
> I've been considering it because I wanted a quick lock up lock for my Clem 
> Smith opposed to my ulock and cable.  I also wanted to support Riv. :)
>
>
> What do you all use in the various conditions that you lock your bike up 
> in?
>

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[RBW] Re: Velocity Dyads and 50mm Tires

[Adam Leibow]

Sorry to hear your rim broke! Cliffhangers are great and can easily handle 
a 50mm tire. 

On Monday, June 22, 2020 at 10:50:22 AM UTC-7, John Rinker wrote:
>
> Good morning,
>
> Just wondering if anyone else has had an issue with Velocity Dyad rims 
> splitting on the sidewalls while running fatter tires. I have been running 
> some Schwalbe Marathon Mondials (28x2.0) and muy rear rim recently split. I 
> am told by Velocity (who has been very helpful, indeed) that the tires are 
> too big for these rims. 
>
> I love the tires and the rims, but perhaps I need an alternative to the 
> Dyad to run these tires. Any recommendations?
>
> Cheers,
> John
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem L arrived, couple of thoughts and questions

[Adam Leibow]

My wife has those wheels on her Sam Hillborne and she loves the 
multicolored nipples. They are machine built wheels. My theory about all 
the braze-ons is they just give you way too many so you can mount any kind 
of rack + fenders + reflectors and doo-dads of all sorts. Ultra 
flexibility. 

On Friday, August 28, 2020 at 5:18:40 AM UTC-7 EricP wrote:

> Jim,
>
> Cool. Mine is due on Monday in St. Paul. Am really getting excited about 
> it. Saw one near our place back in June. Smaller frame. Just love the look 
> of the bike. And that's not easy for me anymore. Have all the parts needed 
> to get riding. Even though I have Big Bens waiting, might give the stock 
> tires a try first. And yes, it follows that since I have a new bike due, 
> the weather forecast is for rain.
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>
>
>
> On Thursday, August 27, 2020 at 12:12:03 PM UTC-5 Jingy wrote:
>
>> Mine is supposed to show up tomorrow. I'm super antsy for it!
>> Jim in Mpls
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, August 27, 2020 at 10:30:38 AM UTC-5, Kurt Henry wrote:
>>>
>>> I asked a while back about a small bike suggestion for my son's mom, 
>>> followed by a WTB for a 45cm Clem-L.  No leads turned up, so I got in line 
>>> for the presale.  And it finally showed up today!
>>>
>>> We went with the green, which I had read was a very interesting color 
>>> that doesn't photograph well.  I'll second (third?  fourth?) that comment.  
>>> Such a cool bronzey-browney-green that seems to change color in different 
>>> light.  I got it put together and took it for a short spin to make sure the 
>>> shifting and braking were all set before I handed it over.  Shifting was 
>>> great and the braking was as well once I cleared a minor hurdle: the front 
>>> brake cable was fine for length, but was routed behind the fork.  I thought 
>>> maybe I'd managed to loop it under the fork leg when I got the bars out.  
>>> But for the life of me I couldn't get it looped back around.  No big deal, 
>>> loosen clamp, move cable to correct side, reattach, and ready to roll.
>>>
>>> The bike is definitely too small for me at almost 5'10". On the road it 
>>> was very smooth and well behaved.  The steering was really light, but 
>>> that's probably not helped by the extended seatpost and slack seat tube 
>>> pushing me back out toward the back.  I did take it through some gravel at 
>>> the park behind our house before looping around.  Slow speed in the gravel 
>>> was really dicey and twitchy.  I was about to hop off to avoid taking a 
>>> spill and scratching it before she got to ride it it.  Not at all what I 
>>> was expecting!  But back out on the road, it was a very nice ride.
>>>
>>> After the quick shakedown, the key item of the day was dropping the seat 
>>> back down to Jenni's height and letting her take it for a spin.  She LOVED 
>>> it!!  So, end of the day, mission accomplished.
>>>
>>> Now, a couple of questions.  Just when I think I've been around the 
>>> block a few times around bikes, this one has a few braze-ons I did not 
>>> expect.  There are tabs on the front of the seat stays, going straight into 
>>> the stay (vs. hourglasses).  What are those for?  And the rear dropouts 
>>> have more eyelets than I can imagine a use for.  I can see the ones part 
>>> way up the seatstays as intended for a rack, to stay out of the way of 
>>> fenders (or perhaps I have that backwards).  But what are the extra eyelets 
>>> behind the rear dropout intended for?
>>>
>>> Finally, who builds the wheels for the production bikes?  I'm assuming 
>>> they're machine built to hit the price point.  But I was surprised to find 
>>> a rainbow of colors for the nipples.  Totally unexpected, and a very nice 
>>> surprise!
>>>
>>> Thanks all!
>>> Kurt Henry
>>> Lancaster, Pennsylvania USA
>>>
>>> P.S. Yes, I know, the bike is turned the wrong way, should be drive 
>>> side.  I was about to set the kickstand on the downhill side (toward me), 
>>> realized it was too steep, so let it rest the other way against Jenni's 
>>> jeep for a quick picture.  Had to get inside and get dinner going!
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar bags

[Adam Leibow]

Peep the Tunitas Carryall Bar Keeper bag. I worked on the colors for this 
one and I have 8 left for sale: LINK 


On Wednesday, November 4, 2020 at 7:16:36 AM UTC-8 greenteadrinkers wrote:

> Cedaero makes a stem bag designed specifically for a 32 oz bottle (deleted 
> previous post to post a direct link to Cedaero):
>
> https://www.cedaero.com/bikebags/devilskettlexl
>
> Scott
>
> On Wednesday, November 4, 2020 at 10:09:48 AM UTC-5 greenteadrinkers wrote:
>
>> This company, Cedaero makes a stem bag designed specifically for a 32 oz 
>> bottle:
>>
>> https://www.perennialcycle.com/devil-s-kettle-xl-pack-moss.html
>>
>> Scott
>>
>> On Monday, November 2, 2020 at 12:43:11 PM UTC-5 Paul Clifton wrote:
>>
>>> Since this thread is still going and packed with lots of good 
>>> recommendations, I thought I'd add something. I got inspired to search for 
>>> "bike bag" on etsy the other day and was pleasantly surprised by the 
>>> results. https://www.etsy.com/search?q=bike%20bag
>>>
>>> There are tons of fun options, and I bet most of these crafts-people 
>>> would do a custom feature or two. Some of them are even well-known bike bag 
>>> brands (e.g. Roadrunner).
>>> I haven't bought any of these, but I think I will next time I need a 
>>> bag. The prices are definitely pretty fair!
>>>
>>> Ellum Bag Works 
>>> has
>>>  
>>> some cool looking options (tie dye stem bottle bag 
>>> ,
>>>  
>>> but it might not fit a 32oz bottle. This one 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> will though.).
>>>
>>> Stradasoul 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> makes some cool looking stuff made out of cordura and repurposed inner 
>>> tubes, including a stem bag 
>>> (seems
>>>  
>>> too small), but I really like this medium sized handlebar bag 
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>> BriggsAdeventureGear makes a decent looking cordura stem bag 
>>> that
>>>  
>>> fits a 1-liter nalgene and is only $35 bucks, but it might not be classy 
>>> enough for that beautiful new Platypus.
>>>
>>> And LexisTreeFort has the best looking little handlebar tube I've ever 
>>> seen with a ton of options to customize, 
>>> https://www.etsy.com/listing/795747837/custom-round-bicycle-handlebar-bag-you?ref=shop_home_active_6&frs=1
>>>
>>> I can't wait to see your new bike built up!
>>>
>>> Paul in NW AR
>>>
>>> On Friday, October 30, 2020 at 11:58:11 AM UTC-5, Bicycle Belle Ding 
>>> Ding! wrote:

 While I wait for the wheelset of my Platypus, I’ve been thinking about 
 how I want to set up my bars (sorry, I just cannot call it a ‘cockpit’). 
 I’ve got 52 Boscos in aluminum to look forward to, and I want to keep my 
 bike as svelte and light as I can. I did the unthinkable and paid for a 
 Spurcycle bell just now ($49 for a bell?!) and now I need bags in keeping 
 with the look. I’ve never ventured past Rivendell and Randi Jo for bags, 
 so 
 I’m unaware of what great offerings the market offers.

 As far as function goes, I’ve got that figured out. Attached are our 
 pair of mom and kid Clems, which we have set up similarly with a Randi Jo 
 bag for our Hydroflasks and a XS Saddlesack facing the rider for 
 iPhones/keys/essentials. I like both of these bags, but neither holds all 
 my items. I’d like to have only one bag so my bars aren’t so cluttered. I 
 do know that Riv is re-doing some of their Sackville line, so I’ve emailed 
 to ask about those details. I’d prefer to give Rivendell my money, but 
 we’ll see what those new bags are like.

 Do you have any recommendations?
 -light
 -streamlined, unobtrusive
 -zippers preferred
 -no garish colors (frame is already a saturated color - raspberry 
 metallic)
 -hold a 32 oz flask AND an phone/keys/granola bar

 Thanks!
 Leah

>>>

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[RBW] new bike day!!

[Adam Leibow]

hello fellow riv fans. i got a new riv on saturday and built it up on 
sunday (yesterday). i rode it to work this morning & it's real nice! 

Highlights include:
Compass 700x55 antelope hills (really amazing)
Paul v brakes & levers
Son dynamo hub & light
Velocity cliffhanger rims
Deerhead shifters
XT derailment worldwide

This bike received the créme of the crop parts list from my Hunqapillar 
(recently sold to a lister).

I stole the fillet brazed nitto bullmoose bars from my Cheviot but will 
likely put them back - this bike has +5cm ETT on the Cheviot, & I am not 
sure which way to go for bars yet. 


behold, 



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[RBW] Re: Help me diagnose chain slip cause?

[Adam Leibow]

i just went through this very same issue with my HubbuHubbuH. I had used 
the exact same derailer and shifter combo on my Cheviot so it was a huge 
mystery to me what wasn't working. I had friction shifters and swapped them 
to index, and this helped the most (but it seems like you have this 
covered). I also unscrewed the B-limit screw as much as I could so the 
chain would have maximum contact with the cog, if that makes sense. What 
was so frustrating was the entire drivetrain (save for the jockey wheels on 
the rear derailer) was brand new. Perhaps part of it was tight links but 
they seem to have loosened by now. I hope any of this helps. (the B-limit 
part seems most applicable). 

On Monday, July 23, 2018 at 8:37:15 AM UTC-7, Brett Callahan wrote:
>
> I'm at wit's end and would be grateful for suggestions. 
>
> Setup:  My Atlantis is running a rivish setup. 8 speed Shimano Cassette, 
> 11-32; 8 speed SRAM chain; Shimano Altus rear derailleur; indexed 8 speed 
> Ultegra bar ends. All parts have been previously used on other bikes I own 
> without issue. My previous setup on this bike, which relied on friction 
> thumb shifting, worked without issue. 
>
> The chain is not particularly worn (I don't have calipers, but it has at 
> most a few hundred miles on it). It does have 6 or so extra links spliced 
> into it using a second power link in order to accommodate the long chain 
> stays.  The cassette appears to be in ok shape--no shark fins yet. If it 
> comes down to replacing parts, I'll start there. The derailleur? It's an 
> Altus--basically bullet proof, right? It's limits are set properly. 
>
> Problem: I experience chain slip when the chain is under load. I cannot 
> replicate the problem with the bike on a work stand. It's minimal when the 
> chain is in the center two cogs of the rear cassette, and increases in 
> higher or lower gears. It is not the chain skipping up or down the cassette 
> before settling into gear as might happen when missing shifts or with 
> improper indexing--it feels as though two or three links "skip" across the 
> top of the cassette periodically. 
>
> Suggestions? I'm not opposed to replacing parts. A new 8 speed chain and 
> cassette don't cost much these days, but it just seems like they shouldn't 
> need it yet. I've also considered upgrading the derailleur to a Deore 
> model. I'd prefer not to change the shifters, which I like. The only reason 
> I haven't done all that yet is that I'm worried there's a simple solution 
> I'm missing, and that the problem might remain. 
>
> Any thoughts appreciated. 
>
> Cheers, 
>
> Brett, grumpily and bumpily grinding his gears across PDX. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: new bike day!!

[Adam Leibow]

Joe - these tires are amazing, though I am much more careful around glass 
cause they have 0 thickness or protective layer. That being said my GF has 
the rat trap passes and rides everything I do and barely flats, if ever. 
And actually the bullmooses are growing on me, though they still feel 
slightly stretched forward. 

Mike - The Hunqapillar is an amazing bike, & I'll buy another one some day. 
I sold it cause I always felt it a bit small, and had come to appreciate 
the more upright, big-frame feel of my Cheviot, even offroad. The Clem 
affords even more standover, tire clearance, and frame flex than the 
Cheviot (all good for offroad), and I also made a couple hundred bucks 
selling the Hunq and buying a Clem. That's it in a nutshell. 



On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 2:41:52 PM UTC-7, Adam Leibow wrote:
>
> hello fellow riv fans. i got a new riv on saturday and built it up on 
> sunday (yesterday). i rode it to work this morning & it's real nice! 
>
> Highlights include:
> Compass 700x55 antelope hills (really amazing)
> Paul v brakes & levers
> Son dynamo hub & light
> Velocity cliffhanger rims
> Deerhead shifters
> XT derailment worldwide
>
> This bike received the créme of the crop parts list from my Hunqapillar 
> (recently sold to a lister).
>
> I stole the fillet brazed nitto bullmoose bars from my Cheviot but will 
> likely put them back - this bike has +5cm ETT on the Cheviot, & I am not 
> sure which way to go for bars yet. 
>
>
> behold, 
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xHAXI4pTuk4/W1Yiv4-CgWI/ARc/F5KHNId-UIc3X0Zm_d-RedN0JeXwr4zrwCLcBGAs/s1600/image1.jpeg>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: new bike day!!

[Adam Leibow]

thanks for the words everybody!

Joe, the way Compass names their tires, one name=one size, so antelope 
hill=700cx55, switchback hill=650bx48, rat trap pass=26"x2.3, etc etc. 
there are plenty of 650b options. 

Justin, go for it. only perceivable difference is long wheelbase versus 
shorter wheelbase, no?

Lester, I have the Billie bars on my Sam Hillborne and I've thought about 
getting Wavie bars for it (when they come out), and putting the Billie bars 
on this. We'll see what happens. 



On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 2:41:52 PM UTC-7, Adam Leibow wrote:
>
> hello fellow riv fans. i got a new riv on saturday and built it up on 
> sunday (yesterday). i rode it to work this morning & it's real nice! 
>
> Highlights include:
> Compass 700x55 antelope hills (really amazing)
> Paul v brakes & levers
> Son dynamo hub & light
> Velocity cliffhanger rims
> Deerhead shifters
> XT derailment worldwide
>
> This bike received the créme of the crop parts list from my Hunqapillar 
> (recently sold to a lister).
>
> I stole the fillet brazed nitto bullmoose bars from my Cheviot but will 
> likely put them back - this bike has +5cm ETT on the Cheviot, & I am not 
> sure which way to go for bars yet. 
>
>
> behold, 
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xHAXI4pTuk4/W1Yiv4-CgWI/ARc/F5KHNId-UIc3X0Zm_d-RedN0JeXwr4zrwCLcBGAs/s1600/image1.jpeg>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bullmoose Bars - Your Experiences?

[Adam Leibow]

hi Joe, I have had a set of these for a couple years now, and they have 
lived on several bikes. Now they're on my new Clem Smith L, which is my 
most mountain-bikey Rivendell. I love these bars for rough riding chunky 
dirt stuff--they inspire more confidence than a drop or swept-back bar IMO, 
and the triangulation of the bullmoose feels very rigid and strong. I have 
tried similar setups that achieve a similar fit as these Bullmooses but 
with a regular stem and bar (non-moose), and typically find them too flexy 
(to an annoying degree). This is why I love the Bullmooses so much, at 
least for mountain bike rides. 

However contrarily I could see some people finding the bullmooses too 
stiff. Also, they would certainly bore me for road rides only. I'd 
recommend them for the fatter-tire rivendells (hunq/atlantis/joe appa/clem 
smith). They'd be fine, but perhaps not amazing on a Sam or a skinny-tire 
cheviot, for example. All this being said, just get some and try them out. 
They're a good investment. 

On Monday, July 30, 2018 at 8:05:40 AM UTC-7, Joe G. wrote:
>
> I have been curious for awhile to know other riv riders experiences with 
> the riv standard bullmoose bars (non-bosco).
>
> What do you like/dislike about them? What type of riding do you do with 
> them? Would they be silly to use for majority pavement/road riding like I 
> do here in SE Michigan? I love the look and function for when I'm able to 
> get out to local trails. But I've noticed occasionally online that some 
> riders swap out their bullmoose bars after only a few months. I have ridden 
> Albatross and Noodles on my Sam, and wonder if bullmoose bars would be 
> frustrating with the limited hand positions.
>
> Would love to know everyone's thoughts!
>
> Joe in Detroit
>

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[RBW] Re: Crust cargo fork/threaded to threadless question

[Adam Leibow]

thread hijacker alert. i just got a crust cargo fork except in 1-1/8" 
variety. it's going on an old M2 rockhopper frame i found in the gutter in 
my neighborhood. does anybody have a 26" rim brake 135mm rear spaced wheel 
they can sell to me in or near san francisco?

On Monday, July 30, 2018 at 11:46:56 AM UTC-7, Drw wrote:
>
> I’m about to pull the trigger on the crust Clydesdale fork for my mtn 
> mixte. Here’s the copy on the 1in version 
>
> “All 1″ forks come with a cane creek 40 headset and a shim so you can run 
> a 1,1/8th stem if need be. Keep in mind if you have an old one inch 
> threaded bike, this fork will work great! That is why we have included the 
> headset threadless headset, as it makes it nice and easy to go from 1″ 
> threaded to threadless.” 
>
> Does this mean I have to convert to threadless and can’t run a quill stem? 
> Or does this mean that converting to threadless is an option. Also, are 
> there any issues with going 1in threaded to 1in threadless and then 
> shimming to 1 1/8th? 
>
> Also, yes I’ve emailed crust but haven’t gotten a response. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Clem H mustard 52

[Adam Leibow]

don't do it

On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 1:34:11 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Ok ok, I know I'm turning into Igor (or maybe I was first and Igor turned 
> into me), but here's the deal: 
>
> I bought this brand spankin' new Clem from Alex Wirth a month ago, 
> switched the shifters around to get the 9-speed rear indexing, and put 10 
> miles on it. Now I have Original Riv Bullmoose Bars for it and am about to 
> install them and go find some dirt to fall down in, but I kinda want that 
> new Riv MTB for this occasion. So my new not-ridden-in-dirt-or-pretty-much 
> anywere-'cept-the-post-office Clem H is for sale for a low enough price to 
> qualify as "I rode it around", but not crazy low give it away madness. 
>
> $1400 shipped. That nifty V-O saddle in the first link is gone, but you 
> can have the plastic pedals. Nitto Medium Rear Rack and shorty wood fender 
> in second link add $150, but I'm inclined to keep them. Buy now before I 
> get it dirty!
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/UPMcxsi2fDJcB1dg9
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/n5uKfWfyoJ5o5LJo6
>
> Joe Bernard
> Novato CA. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Please tell me about your experience with caliper braked Hillbornes.

[Adam Leibow]

Brett, I had a caliper-braked Homer that came with the R559 caliper brakes 
that I eventually swapped for the Paul Racers. The R559's were great 
brakes, but flexy due to the long arms - I think some people would consider 
this beneficial added modulation, and some would consider it annoying. You 
could always use compressionless housing to reduce this sensation if you 
wanted to.

I bought the Pauls for aesthetic/MUSA reasons, and they are a bit less 
squishy, though not a squish-free brake (they now live on my Cheviot). The 
Paul's certainly look good and brake well - no arguing there. I'd say 
deciding between these two brakes, you certainly are limited, but they're 
both good options. 

One small thing to note: centerpulls and cantilevers have exposed cable 
running from the housing stop to the straddle hanger, and if you use a bag 
like the Swift Fabio's Chest or Zeitgeist, the bag will sit on the cable 
and potentially compress the brake. I have experienced this using the Paul 
centerpulls and canti's, and have since moved to using racks with 
tombstones to support the bags and hold them off the brake cable. you CAN 
use one of those housing stops that lives at the fork crown (and I've heard 
they reduce chatter somewhat) but in my opinion they look kinda bad. This 
problem does not exist with Vbrakes and Sidepulls since the housing runs 
all the way to the brake. 

On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 2:36:35 PM UTC-7, Brett Callahan wrote:
>
> Friends, 
>
> I'm considering the purchase of a lightly used Sam Hillborne--the caliper 
> brake version. The only thing giving me pause is that it has been a while 
> since I had anything with caliper brakes. The long reach required would 
> seem to limit my options to the Paul Racer Centerpulls and the 
> Tektro/Silver R559 brakes. Anyone want to share their experiences with 
> these brakes, particularly on the Hillborne? 
>
> If money were no object, would replacing R559s with Pauls be a good idea? 
> (The bike would come with R559s on it, but I am who I am and will look to 
> tinker eventually...)
>
> For background, intended use is as a primarily on road bike with a small 
> front rack, 38mm tires, and fenders. I'm six foot two, and weigh 235-245. I 
> live in Portland, so the bike will be ridden in the rain. 
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brett
>

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[RBW] Re: Please tell me about your experience with caliper braked Hillbornes.

[Adam Leibow]

Brett, 
I forgot to mention I have a canti-Sam, & I am happy it's a Canti-sam. The 
racers are fun and cool looking, but the Paul neo retro (wide cantilevers) 
are what I prefer. They feel more solid and the power is better than the 
Racers IMO. 
best,
Adam

On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 2:36:35 PM UTC-7, Brett Callahan wrote:
>
> Friends, 
>
> I'm considering the purchase of a lightly used Sam Hillborne--the caliper 
> brake version. The only thing giving me pause is that it has been a while 
> since I had anything with caliper brakes. The long reach required would 
> seem to limit my options to the Paul Racer Centerpulls and the 
> Tektro/Silver R559 brakes. Anyone want to share their experiences with 
> these brakes, particularly on the Hillborne? 
>
> If money were no object, would replacing R559s with Pauls be a good idea? 
> (The bike would come with R559s on it, but I am who I am and will look to 
> tinker eventually...)
>
> For background, intended use is as a primarily on road bike with a small 
> front rack, 38mm tires, and fenders. I'm six foot two, and weigh 235-245. I 
> live in Portland, so the bike will be ridden in the rain. 
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brett
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Clem H mustard 52

[Adam Leibow]

if the riv Mtb comes in a year you have plenty of time to save, no? and 
keep the clem H and ride the heck out of it, then get the MTB and keep both 
- that's what I would do. but im a bike hoarder. 

On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 1:34:11 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Ok ok, I know I'm turning into Igor (or maybe I was first and Igor turned 
> into me), but here's the deal: 
>
> I bought this brand spankin' new Clem from Alex Wirth a month ago, 
> switched the shifters around to get the 9-speed rear indexing, and put 10 
> miles on it. Now I have Original Riv Bullmoose Bars for it and am about to 
> install them and go find some dirt to fall down in, but I kinda want that 
> new Riv MTB for this occasion. So my new not-ridden-in-dirt-or-pretty-much 
> anywere-'cept-the-post-office Clem H is for sale for a low enough price to 
> qualify as "I rode it around", but not crazy low give it away madness. 
>
> $1400 shipped. That nifty V-O saddle in the first link is gone, but you 
> can have the plastic pedals. Nitto Medium Rear Rack and shorty wood fender 
> in second link add $150, but I'm inclined to keep them. Buy now before I 
> get it dirty!
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/UPMcxsi2fDJcB1dg9
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/n5uKfWfyoJ5o5LJo6
>
> Joe Bernard
> Novato CA. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bullmoose Bars - Your Experiences?

[Adam Leibow]

+1 for ESI grips. I even wrap them with newbaum's for the rivvier look, and 
I imagine the cloth protects the foam somewhat. 

On Monday, July 30, 2018 at 8:05:40 AM UTC-7, Joe G. wrote:
>
> I have been curious for awhile to know other riv riders experiences with 
> the riv standard bullmoose bars (non-bosco).
>
> What do you like/dislike about them? What type of riding do you do with 
> them? Would they be silly to use for majority pavement/road riding like I 
> do here in SE Michigan? I love the look and function for when I'm able to 
> get out to local trails. But I've noticed occasionally online that some 
> riders swap out their bullmoose bars after only a few months. I have ridden 
> Albatross and Noodles on my Sam, and wonder if bullmoose bars would be 
> frustrating with the limited hand positions.
>
> Would love to know everyone's thoughts!
>
> Joe in Detroit
>

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[RBW] Re: Billie Bars?

[Adam Leibow]

ryan, i have these on my sam hillborne & i really like them. an improvement 
on the albatross, imo. 

On Friday, August 3, 2018 at 1:20:13 PM UTC-7, Ryan M. wrote:
>
> So, anybody using Billie Bars on their Rivendell, or any other bike, and 
> would like to give me their impressions?  I've used Noodles, Albatross, 
> original mustache bars, Choco-Moose bars on the Appaloosa, bunch of flat 
> bars among others. Right now flat bars are giving me a lot of 
> wrist/thumb/arthritis trouble on my mtbs and on drop bars I rarely actually 
> use the drop portion so they are almost wasted on me; I do like having 
> several hand positions though. 
>
> Here's the deal...I got a Trek Crockett frameset sitting in the garage 
> that I'm going to be building up single speed for after work gravel rides. 
> The bike will live at my office so I don't have to drag one here everyday. 
> Of course, traditionally I would be sticking a set of drop bars on it and 
> calling it good, but I've thought about going with something different and 
> I would have to get brake levers for drops (I have sweet Paul Comp. flat 
> bar brake levers already). Thought about flat bars from one of the mtbs I 
> have laying around and am not using but that wrist thing gets in the way. 
> Though about something like the Velo Orange Klunker bars, but those might 
> rise too much for this frame. So, my searching has led me to the Billie 
> Bars that I didn't know existed until about ten minutes ago. They look 
> pretty swell, like an upgraded albatross with room in front and behind the 
> brake levers. I could get a shim so I can run these with a 30.6 stem, which 
> I have already, and go ride around in total bliss. But, I am not sure I 
> would like them, hence my asking for impressions and reviews from others. 
>
> thanks!
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 650b X 48 tires

[Adam Leibow]

i texted you

On Sunday, August 5, 2018 at 4:19:13 PM UTC-7, ant ritchey wrote:
>
> Howdy folks!
>
> Anyone out there got some Switchback Hills or Gravel Kings that they're 
> not using? Or something similar?
>
> Looking for something lightly used but open to hearing what you've got 
> either way.
>
> Wanna trade? I've got an M737 & M952 rear derailer, Nitto Big Front Rack, 
> various Technomic Deluxe stems, Suntour Superbe Pro non-aero levers and 
> maybe some other choice bits for tradin'.
>
> Thanks,
> Ant Ritchey in PDX OR
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Canvas Saddle Wedges.

[Adam Leibow]

hello david, i have frequently clicked on the link to your website and i'm 
perpetually impressed with the quality of the work. it is a hobby of mine 
to support smaller operations like yours appears to be, and my girlfriend 
never tires of rolling her eyes about [the never-ending growth of] my bike 
bag collection. however as a vegan i do not buy leather, & so i cordially 
suggest exploring offering vegan alternatives. i would have already bought 
one or two of these saddle wedges were there a vegan option, and i believe 
there is a market base for this option that is larger than myself alone. 
Or, if this option exists but is not listed on your site, please let me 
know & I'll buy a wedge!!! thanks & keep up the good work! 
-adam

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 12:06:24 PM UTC-7, David B wrote:
>
> Since a few of my early saddle wedges have popped up for sale recently, I 
> thought I'd let folks know that I still make these, with a bump up in 
> quality of materials since I began making these several years ago.
>
> Link here: 
> https://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/medium-saddle-wedge-waxed-canvas
> I'll offer up free shipping to list members, use code LOCAL at checkout to 
> take off the shipping fee.
> Feel free to send me a message offlist if you're interested in a 
> fabric/leather combo not listed in the webstore.
> Thanks,
> David
> River Grove, IL
>
> Fabric options:
> Fairfield Textiles #8 water-repellent canvas: olive green, navy blue, 
> cinnamon brown, black 
> Fairfield Textiles' Martexin #10 waxed canvas: field tan, black
>
> Leather Options:
> Horween natural russet leather
> Horween chromexcel leather in: black, navy blue, natural (medium 
> brown-ish), dark brown, burgundy color 8
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Adam Leibow]

i wonder just how catastrophic or dangerous these rack failures are for the 
rider. if you think about it, a rack falling into the spinning front wheel 
would be shot forward with the rotation of the tire. i'm not saying i'd 
want this to happen but i can't picture a strut breaking causing the rack 
to fall and put so much downforce on the front wheel as to cause it to stop 
and buck a rider OTB. also, if using a mark's rack with 4 struts, the 
diving board, AND the manny strap, one or even two strut's worth of failure 
might not even be that costly or catastrophic (if all you have to replace 
are broken struts and, at worst, a tire). this being said i look forward to 
their answer to this problem. the way i read the post, mostly it's the M12 
that's the culprit. 

this all being said, i've loaded up my mark's rack and 32F with dangerous 
amounts of weight many times, and luckily i haven't had a problem. maybe 
i'm a good candidate for a basket-specific rack. 

adam

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 4:16:51 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Apparently enough crazies are overloading their Wald baskets on Nitto 
> racks, breaking them and suing over it that now Nitto is saying "no 
> baskets".  Rivendell cares what Nitto says, and so Grant posted on the 
> Blahg that we shouldn't run baskets.  There have been other vendors 
> claiming Nitto Racks carry a lot more weight than Nitto themselves claim.  
> Some gullible people think that means that racks from other vendors are 
> 'stronger' than the ones you buy from Rivendell.  The fact is, a failed 
> front rack is a big problem, and conservative recommendations are intended 
> to protect your head, even if that discourages you from buying something:
>
> GRANTS BLAHG 
> 
>
> Be careful out there.  Use your Manny strap.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Canvas Saddle Wedges.

[Adam Leibow]

dm'd!

On Wednesday, August 15, 2018 at 9:00:06 AM UTC-7, David B wrote:
>
> Hi Adam & others,
> I have non-leather options for all bags I make. They're just not listed in 
> my webstore. I'm not that great at keeping things updated there.
> Feel free to send a message and I can go over options.
> Thanks!
> David
>
> On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 6:21:07 PM UTC-5, Adam Leibow wrote:
>>
>> hello david, i have frequently clicked on the link to your website and 
>> i'm perpetually impressed with the quality of the work. it is a hobby of 
>> mine to support smaller operations like yours appears to be, and my 
>> girlfriend never tires of rolling her eyes about [the never-ending growth 
>> of] my bike bag collection. however as a vegan i do not buy leather, & so i 
>> cordially suggest exploring offering vegan alternatives. i would have 
>> already bought one or two of these saddle wedges were there a vegan option, 
>> and i believe there is a market base for this option that is larger than 
>> myself alone. Or, if this option exists but is not listed on your site, 
>> please let me know & I'll buy a wedge!!! thanks & keep up the good work! 
>> -adam
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 12:06:24 PM UTC-7, David B wrote:
>>>
>>> Since a few of my early saddle wedges have popped up for sale recently, 
>>> I thought I'd let folks know that I still make these, with a bump up in 
>>> quality of materials since I began making these several years ago.
>>>
>>> Link here: 
>>> https://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/medium-saddle-wedge-waxed-canvas
>>> I'll offer up free shipping to list members, use code LOCAL at checkout 
>>> to take off the shipping fee.
>>> Feel free to send me a message offlist if you're interested in a 
>>> fabric/leather combo not listed in the webstore.
>>> Thanks,
>>> David
>>> River Grove, IL
>>>
>>> Fabric options:
>>> Fairfield Textiles #8 water-repellent canvas: olive green, navy blue, 
>>> cinnamon brown, black 
>>> Fairfield Textiles' Martexin #10 waxed canvas: field tan, black
>>>
>>> Leather Options:
>>> Horween natural russet leather
>>> Horween chromexcel leather in: black, navy blue, natural (medium 
>>> brown-ish), dark brown, burgundy color 8
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: I'd like some 'splaining: Clem H vs. new Riv MTB

[Adam Leibow]

here are my guesses for differences in ride/utility:
1. more standover / sloping top tube. 
2. more tire clearance (as indicated above). 
3. slightly more mountain geometry.


On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 2:09:44 PM UTC-7, LeRoy wrote:
>
> Here are two snippets from Rivendell; the first from the "Big Ol' 
> Seasonal Blowout Sale" email, the second from the Clem Smith Jr. page:
>
> *"...a new mountain bike planned for next year. Still about six months off 
> for both of those. The new bike will kind of replace the Clem H, which is 
> still the best bang for your buck in our lineup, but the frames and 
> completes we get in next week will be the last ever unfortunately. The new 
> mountain bike will be fancier fwiw."*
>
> (wrt Clem Smith Jr.) *"I/Grant think of it as a mountain bike–and the 
> frame does pass the mountain bike EN test, the toughest in the world, so 
> it’s not going to break on you."*
>
> I'm the quite happy owner of a 59cm Clem H. It suits me and my needs very 
> well. I don't know if I need a new bike. But who doesn't need the Nth 
> bike? So, I've dug around for new MTB information among the Riv posts, 
> Blugs and Blaghs yet I'm not able to answer several general questions. 
> Further, I realize that too little is known about the coming soon-ish 
> Rivendell MTB to make many definitive statements. And finally, I realize 
> that my own lack of a detailed understanding of general bike geometry 
> limits my ability to make sense of what seems to be known about the new MTB 
> as it relates to my Clem H or other bikes.
>
> So, my question(s) is/are:
>
>1.   What is it, in general, that would make the new MTB supplant the 
>need for Rivendell to continue making the Clem H?
>2.   As a happy Clem owner, what might there be about the MTB that 
>would make a difference, and in what kind of riding might the 
> difference(s) 
>be most apparent?
>3.   As a more trivial aside, what is expected to be "fancier" about 
>the MTB?
>
> Thanks for any assistance and, if my questions are too rudimentary -- or 
> too premature -- for forum discussion, don't hesitate to tell me to keep my 
> powder dry and patiently wait for the formal MTB release and more details.
>

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[RBW] Re: Sharing a 52 Clem L with my much shorter spouse. Feasable? Crazy?

[Adam Leibow]

If it were me, I'd build up an early 90s mountain bike with bosco's and 
flat pedals and easy gearing and a basket, buy the 59 clem (that fits you 
best), and call it a day. even though the clem L is cheaper than your 
custom rando, it's still a nice, expensive bike that there's no reason to 
sacrifice anything on. this way you won't have to deal with any annoying 
swaps or spend too much on something if your s/o doesn't end up using it as 
much as you anticipated. i am roughly your size and just got a 59 clem L 
and it's pretty amazing. 

On Tuesday, September 4, 2018 at 7:49:23 PM UTC-7, Sean Steinle wrote:
>
> So, I've never really looked at the Clem L until today, especially not at 
> the geometry chart. Didn't realize the sizes catered to such wide ranges, 
> which of course makes sense with a step-through. Here's the dilemma, my 
> wife is 5'2", just measured her PBH at 73.5 cm. If I was buying a Clem just 
> for her, it would be the 45, no brainer. I'm 5'10", PBH 86.5, so at the 
> high end of a 52. Here's why I want to do it:
>
>
>- My wife doesn't ride *that *often, so it's hard to justify spending 
>Riv money on a bike for her. 
>- I just bought a beautiful, but expensive rando bike, but it almost 
>feels too nice to commute on. I feel like something in a lower price tier 
>would be a bit more freeing. Locking it up outside of a store on the way 
>home, leaving it outside on a slushy day instead of dragging my rando 
>through the office (I'm not locking it outside, period). 
>- Lastly, I just really want a Riv, and I feel like this shared 
>(multi-purpose, minimalist, need I go on?) bike thing could be the ticket 
>with my wife. 
>
> My vision for the 52 Clem L: Foul weather (or just all the time, we'd see 
> how it goes) commuter for me. Then when we go on family rides, my wife will 
> hop on the Clem and I'll take the rando bike.
>
> So what's my reservation? I think a 52 Clem would work just fine for me, 
> and I think my wife could fit it with a slammed seat post, the question is, 
> could I find a cockpit that she could reach that wouldn't leave me feeling 
> squished when I'm riding it?  Thoughts on this idea in general would be 
> appreciated! 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: The ups and downs of my Clem Smith Jr

[Adam Leibow]

I didn't read anyone else's replies so apologies if this is double 
information - if you can find an ultegra 8s bar end shifter, you can use 
this with a paul thumbie for an indexed 8speed thumb shifter setup. this 
being said,  a while back I ordered an 8spd thumb shifter from rivbike.com 
- it was either sunrace or microshift, can't remember, but it worked 
flawlessly with an Altus RD. 

I just bought a nitto UI-12 (31.8 threaded stem) and Sycip JJJ mountain 
bars. Going to put these on my clem. The nitto UI-12 stem really opens up a 
lot of bar options, and Sycip and Hunter have some great silver bar options 
with nice sweep and rise that would be great on a Clem. I'll post pics when 
I receive this stuff in the mail & get it installed. 

On Wednesday, September 5, 2018 at 1:51:21 PM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> The good news about my Clem is that I've been riding it a lot more since I 
> moved.  I now live on a busy 4 lane highway with no shoulders, so I was 
> having to either brave the traffic to get to a side street or trail, or put 
> the bike on the car, which I hate to do if I'm just going out for a fun 
> ride.  I found a gravel path behind my condo complex that goes about a 
> quarter mile to the next cross street to the highway.  From there I can 
> cross the highway and access the regional mixed terrain trail system.  
>
> The shortcut I found has got pretty rough big-ish rocks so I am loath to 
> ride my more roadish Rivendells with their relatively fragile Compass 
> tires.  The Clem though tackles this section with aplumb so I find myself 
> wheeling it out for rides more than my other bikes.  I also find the 
> traction just a little bit better on the pea gravel sections of the 
> regional trails, where the slick Compass tires might kick out a bit going 
> around a corner, the Clem and it's big Kendas track straight and true where 
> I point my wheels.  It just feels a little less squirrely, so to say.
>
> Which is a good segue into what I don't like.  I bought my 65 ClemH 
> complete and one of the things that it came with that I am not super 
> enamored of is the Bosco bars.  This may sound odd since they are 58cm wide 
> (I think) but they feel too narrow and too far back for me.  I feel like I 
> might hit them with my knees when I'm out riding.  I feel I would prefer a 
> bar with less intrusion into my midsection.  I'd also prefer something a 
> little less upright, which I think having a bar that's not so far into my 
> midsection will take care of itself.  It just doesn't feel dialed in the 
> way it is now.
>
> Looking around on Rivendell's website, I like the look of the Billie 
> bars.  I'm just not sure if 58 will be wide enough for my preference.  I'm 
> thinking maybe because they flare out a lot more and much less back than 
> the Boscos, that the 58 might be fine in this form factor.  Truth is my 
> drop bar bikes are only 48cm so having a bar not so far back like the 
> Billie would work I think
>
> Or there is the Aherne+MAP handlebar which is 61.5 cm wide in the wider 
> version.
> https://www.ahearnecycles.com/shop/ahearnemap-handlebar if you're not 
> familar.  I still have some store credit at Rivendell though so this route 
> would cost me more out of pocket.
>
> Anyone tried either of these bars on their Clem?
>
> The other thing I don't like is friction shifting.  Does Microshift or 
> SunRace make an indexed 8 speed thumbie?  I was hoping to re-use the thumb 
> pod and just get the shifter part of it, but I can only find 8 speed in 
> friction.  I could switch to Shimano 8 which would require a different 
> thumb pod or go 9 speed indexed T09 Microshift thumbies which would require 
> a 9 speed cassette and potentially a different derailer.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> -Jim
>
>
>
> -- 
> --
> signature goes here
>

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[RBW] Re: ISO Chris King Rear Hub, 135mm, 36h, low flange, silver (Non Disc)

[Adam Leibow]

there are also some older bontrager branded hubs (from early 90s 26" 
wheelsets) that are actually chris king. you can tell just by looking at 
the hubshell and some sellers list this. might try looking for that, too. 

On Wednesday, September 5, 2018 at 5:22:55 PM UTC-7, Alex Wirth- Owner, 
Yellow Haus Bicycles wrote:
>
> Sadly these are no longer in production...and I have always had an 
> irrational thirst for their super loud pawls.  
>
> Wishing on a star someone has one on the shelf collecting dust.  The high 
> flange model is currently a two month lead time.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Alex Wirth
> Rochester, NY
>
>
> ***If you have one but it's not silver, I'm all ears
>

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[RBW] Re: New Mtn Bike = Clem L for Me?

[Adam Leibow]

I just bought a clem L for mountain bike/heavy duty rides. Keven (who used 
to work at Rivendell) is my neighbor and one day got me excited about the 
idea of a clem L for mountain biking because of the extremely low toptube, 
and the ability to literally step through and out of the frame during a 
bail on tricky terrain. The weekend after that, I bought one, and have been 
riding it since. It's quite a plush ride, especially with tubeless Compass 
Antelope Pass, and works great as a heavy duty offroad frame as well as an 
all arounder / commuter. wouldn't hesitate to MTB o

On Thursday, September 13, 2018 at 10:38:22 AM UTC-7, Kiley Demond wrote:
>
> Wow, I was in California working for a couple of weeks (sixteen straight 
> days), and alas had no time to go to Riv just to see the haps (yes, I'm 
> that old), AND upon my return saw/read how the impending new bike lit up a 
> thread. (BTW, I would approach trying to figure out the name, not as an 
> anagram, but attempted logic: what is the name of the bike it is most like, 
> and does that name have offspring or other associations? That said, I have 
> no idea of the answers, so I am tapping out right away.)
>
> Anyhow, I know there are probably some Clem L owners that will buy the new 
> bike, therefore, I am putting my forth my 'WTB' for a 59 Orange Clem. I 
> might be able to see my way clear to another color, but not at the 
> moment;-).  Frame only is fine. 
>
> Thanks!
>
> Kiley
>

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[RBW] Re: Problem with Roadinis?

[Adam Leibow]

hi Alan, will they let you take the blem one now, and potentially let you 
borrow a long reach brake for the time being? I would think that's what 
they'd do. And then ship you the corrected frame when it arrives? You 
should ask. Even so, I'd recommend waiting either way. Soma is a fine brand 
but a Rivendell is much more exciting, and worth the wait as many people 
have said already. I have test ridden a Roadini and it was really special. 

On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 7:28:37 AM UTC-7, Alan H wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Looking for some feedback from folks here about the orange Roadinis.
>
> Last week I placed an order for one of the new orange Roadinis in a size 
> 50 (thanks to my darned 80 cm pbh). After a week without any news from Riv 
> (and having my cc charged), I called to find out when the bike would ship. 
> I was told that they had received a lot of orders and were running a light 
> crew because of Interbike and that my bike would pack and ship yesterday 
> (Friday).
>
> Yesterday I got a call from Vince saying that there was a problem. He told 
> me that the brake bridge on the orange Roadini frames was in the wrong 
> place and that standard road brake calipers wouldn't work. While he told me 
> the frame would work with longer pull brakes (like Tektros or Pauls), 
> frames with the correct brake bridge wouldn't be back in until December.
>
> Needless to say I'm a little disappointed and frustrated, especially since 
> I logged on here today and saw folks talking about their new orange 
> Roadinis. Has anyone else gotten a similar story from Riv? 
>
> On a related topic, since I'm apparently not getting a Roadini, does 
> anyone have experience with Soma's road frames? In particular I like the 
> look of the Stanyan 
>  in pearl 
> white. It has a geometry similar to their ES model and is a fully lugged 
> steel frame at a very attractive price point. The Roadini was obviously my 
> first choice, but I wonder how the Soma stacks up in terms of build and 
> ride qualities.
>
> Thanks in advance for you input!
>
> -Alan
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: handlebar/stem bags - what do people like?

[Adam Leibow]

I have a (D)SLR-specific Roadrunner Bags stem-mount (basically just an 
extra big stem caddy/feed bag). I dont use it for a camera but it's a great 
bag and it's intended to fit an SLR w/ lens, so I think this would be a 
good option. you can pick the colors you want, and the pricing is good. 
https://roadrunnerbags.us/collections/handlebar-bags/products/point-n-shooter-l

On Friday, September 28, 2018 at 9:13:54 AM UTC-7, Neil Doran wrote:
>
> What do folks like for handlebar/stem bags, especially ones that can hold 
> an SLR with short lens? I missed the boat on the Riv product a while back.
>
> I have a Carsick Designs stem bag that I love, but it is first gen meant 
> only for a bike water bottle. Need bigger.
>
> Randi Jo looks great, just not sure it is wide enough. I'm sure I would 
> not regret the purchase, tho.
>
> Revelate seems to be a standard-bearer, and apparently has one-handed 
> operation, which seems slick.
>
> Any opinions out there?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS (tentatively): 2speed 60cm Green Sparkle Cheviot complete

[Adam Leibow]

Hi Dave,
I am really trying to make space in my small apartment and pay off a loan.
This being said I have had a semi-custom B+ hardtail in the pipeline made
by my friend Carlos Velazquez under the name Dark Moon Cycles. I also just
bought a Surly Midnight special frame, and some expensive dynamo wheels. So
not any exact 1 for 1 replacements, just moving on I guess.
Cheers
Adam

Adam Leibow
Junior Associate IALD

*PRITCHARD/PECK* LIGHTING
389 Clementina St. | San Francisco, CA 94103
office 415.323.5540
pritchardpeck.com


On Fri, Sep 28, 2018 at 12:24 PM Dave Grossman  wrote:

> Whats new in the queue?
>
>>
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[RBW] Re: Weighing options: Clem L vs. Cheviot (vs. ?)

[Adam Leibow]

I own both. I find the Cheviot to be even stouter than the Clem L. some of 
this sensation is in the tires (supple compass antelope pass on Clem L and 
heavier schwalbe smart sam on Cheviot), but I think the triangulation 
(higher toptube and the extra rear triangle make the cheviot's rear end 
ride some what rock hard. Echoing what above people have said, the V brakes 
of the Clem L are much stronger than whatever you'll put on the cheviot. 
They're both amazing bikes. The effective toptube lengths are quite 
different, so be aware of that. Good luck with your decision. 

On Monday, October 8, 2018 at 3:32:48 PM UTC-7, Tully Lanter wrote:
>
> There are too many outstanding Riv frame options for my middle-of-the-road 
> needs. Nice problem to face! 
>
> I've tested a Clem L and liked it. A lot. Silky smooth, 650b (in 52cm), 
> step-through for those unplanned traffic/trail dismounts, ample tire 
> clearance... 
>
> However, it felt overly stout for my 150 lbs and minimal cargo.
>
> Theoretically, the Cheviot seems like it would have a spritelier feel à la 
> Sam/Homer while keeping the long chainstays and low, stretched-out top 
> tube. For whoever has ridden some/all of these, is that about right?
>
> Not sure whether long-wheelbase models would fit in our buses' bike 
> racks...but that's another matter!
>

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[RBW] Re: Dirt Drop Bar alternative to Cowchipper with 26 clam

[Adam Leibow]

i have some soma portola bars for sell for cheap if you're interested. 

On Saturday, October 6, 2018 at 8:16:05 PM UTC-7, Jonathan D. wrote:
>
> Is anyone familiar with a good alternative to the Salsa Cowchipper Bar 
> with a 26 clamp?  I like the cowchipper bars a lot and would like a similar 
> bar to use with my nitto stems. 

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 52 Clem L, possibly 55 Cheviot or canti-Sam

[Adam Leibow]

you should see the riv special sale for the demo 55 sam H complete

On Tuesday, October 9, 2018 at 2:35:03 PM UTC-7, Tully Lanter wrote:
>
> I'm looking for F/F/HS, complete, or anything in between. Shipping to 
> 98052.
>
> Slight preference for the Clem L since the price point makes goodies like 
> dynamo lighting more accessible. Still, any of these three would be 
> terrific, for slightly different reasons that I'd weight equally.
>
> Thanks, all, for the great collective input on frame choices!
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 52 Clem L, possibly 55 Cheviot or canti-Sam

[Adam Leibow]

oof brutal - sorry to hear that!

On Tuesday, October 9, 2018 at 2:35:03 PM UTC-7, Tully Lanter wrote:
>
> I'm looking for F/F/HS, complete, or anything in between. Shipping to 
> 98052.
>
> Slight preference for the Clem L since the price point makes goodies like 
> dynamo lighting more accessible. Still, any of these three would be 
> terrific, for slightly different reasons that I'd weight equally.
>
> Thanks, all, for the great collective input on frame choices!
>

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[RBW] Re: Dirt Drop Bar alternative to Cowchipper with 26 clam

[Adam Leibow]

i have used the cowchippers and portolas and yes they are a bit different. 
the portolas feel narrower, even though they have more pronounced flare. 

On Saturday, October 6, 2018 at 8:16:05 PM UTC-7, Jonathan D. wrote:
>
> Is anyone familiar with a good alternative to the Salsa Cowchipper Bar 
> with a 26 clamp?  I like the cowchipper bars a lot and would like a similar 
> bar to use with my nitto stems. 

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[RBW] Re: Colossal Wald Basket

[Adam Leibow]

i've got this basket ziptied to my crust clydesdale fork. confirming it 
handles great. 

On Tuesday, October 9, 2018 at 2:22:15 PM UTC-7, J Imler wrote:
>
> Get a load of this behemoth. 
> Pics here 
>  
>
> Same width as the big Bosco bars. I think you could lug a Labrador in 
> there. I bought it to hold my kid's school papers, looks like we'll be good 
> for a couple years worth of hoarding.
>

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[RBW] Re: New Canti Sam Tire Clearances (Soma Supple Vitesse 48?)

[Adam Leibow]

I would think a tire like the WTB resolute 42mm or riddler 45mm would be 
great. i have a canti sam and I had the riddler 45's, was a pretty good 
option with good clearance. 

On Tuesday, October 16, 2018 at 6:27:19 AM UTC-7, Adam in Indiana wrote:
>
> I'm looking to pick up some new tires for my 2017 canti Sam, but I'd like 
> to hear others' experiences on clearances before making my decision.  I've 
> narrowed it down to Snoqualmie Pass or Supple Vitesse 48's, either SL or 
> EX, not sure of the ride difference (the claim is the extra rubber of the 
> EX is only on the tread).
>
> Currently I have 35mm Paselas on H+Son TB14 rims, and they measure 36mm on 
> the front and 36.5 on the rear, both roughly 35mm high.  My clearance from 
> the tire to the rear seatstay bridge fender mount is 13mm.
>
> So you can see where my hesitation toward the Supple Vitesse is coming 
> from... Unless they run small, I don't think it'll work...
>
> Does anyone have any experience with the 48mm Vitesse?  
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem L 59 -- Considering a purchase

[Adam Leibow]

@ tc responding to your oct 13 message:

thank you! saddle height is 76cm (roughly 11cm lower than pbh). I am using 
an 80mm Nitto UI-12 stem (which is a quill stem with 31.8mm clamp and an 
open/removable faceplate) and Sycip JJJ bars (which are similar to Map 
Ahearne in shape/sweep but slightly wider and with a larger 31.8mm clamp). 
The reach is perfect for me. I'm 5'-9" with long legs for my height. 

On Friday, October 5, 2018 at 11:49:36 AM UTC-7, RDS wrote:
>
> I am thinking of getting a Clem L frame or complete bike.  
>
> The latest catalog has a min PBH of 83 for the size 59.  I am 83+/-.  
> Anyone near PBH own one and have any comments?  I am overweight, so most 
> riding will be paved paths.
>
> Looks like Gray or Green for a color choice.  Your vote?
>

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[RBW] Re: WTT my Byway for your Naches Pass

[Adam Leibow]

how much would you want for the byways?

On Thursday, October 18, 2018 at 8:51:12 AM UTC-7, Conway Bennett wrote:
>
> I want to try compass tires and was thinking Naches Pass tires on my XO. 
>  However, I own more unused tires than I do shoes.  I figure my barely used 
> WTB Byways would fetch the most interest and would be a lateral move price 
> wise.  If no trades come up consider the Byways for sale as I maxed out 
> clearance on my hunqapillar which they were on with WTB light/fast Ridder's 
> which are way underrated.  

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my new Roadeo. Part I, Wheels.

[Adam Leibow]

check out velocity Quill. they are polished silver rims which are nice and 
somewhat light. H Plus Son archetype also a good option that comes in 
polished. as for hubs, just get 105 5800 hubs in silver. they work & look 
fine. unless you want to spend $500+ on a hubset, then pick your poison 
(chris king, white industries, industry 9, et al)

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 5:29:55 AM UTC-7, David Wadstrup wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
>
> I’m the proud owner of a beautiful, new-to-me Roadeo frameset that I 
> recently purchased here from another group member.  My plan is to take my 
> time building it up over the course of winter, with a May 1st goal of 
> getting it out on the road.  As I am also the proud owner of a few other 
> bikes(some Rivendells) I have a pretty specific, narrowly focused idea in 
> mind regarding the Roadeo.  Essentially, I’d like it to be pared down 
> accessory-wise, light and fast, with an 11 speed Shimano drivetrain and STI 
> shifters.  Unlike my other bikes, I’d like this one to be a sort of one 
> trick pony — light, fast and agile.  I’ll never mount racks or bags or even 
> fenders on this bike(I have this covered with my other bikes.) For the most 
> part, it’ll be a fair weather bike.  I may occasionally commute on it, but 
> I won’t ever have the need for it to carry anything or to protect me or 
> itself from foul weather.  
>
>
> My I I ask for your help?  I’ve spent quite a bit of time researching 
> component choices, but could use some real world, Riv based advice.  For 
> the sake of ease, I thought it best that I divide this into a few different 
> threads.  Today’s is wheels.  I’ll follow it up with brakes and bars and 
> cranks, etc.
>
>
> Here's what I've been thinking so far
>
>
> I’ll be running 700c x 28 clinchers and will not ever have the need or 
> desire to run anything larger than, say, 700c x 32. I’d like polished 
> silver rims with polished silver hubs both with an aesthetic appropriate 
> for this vintage/modern looking frame. I’ve narrowed my rim and hub choices 
> down to 2, but am open to other suggestions should they meet my criteria. 
>
>
>
> Rims:
>
>
> Velocity Quill. I really like Velocity rims, but have no experience with 
> the Quills. They come in polished silver and seem to be Velocity’s best 
> choice for a fast, light wheel build. I know a lot of people ride the A23s, 
> but for some reason I’m just not interested in them. 
>
>
> H Son Plus TB14. I’ve only just learned about these, but people on the 
> internet seem to be very happy with them. They have the look I’m after and 
> also seem to be a good choice for a light-ish fast wheelset.  I think 
> I'm leaning toward these just to try out a different maker's rims, but am 
> really torn and am hoping for a nudge in one direction of the other. 
>
>
>
>
> Hubs:
>
>
> White Industries T11, front and back. I have a rear MI5 on my AHH and 
> really like it. They’re made here in the US which I like and they aren’t 
> too noisy. I was pretty much settled on the T11s for this build, but then 
> learned about
>
>
> Phil’s road hubs. I also have a Phil rear touring hub which I also really 
> like. In fact, it’s my favorite hub as it spins silently. But the Phil road 
> hubs are significantly heavier than the T11s. They are also more costly and 
> being different than their touring hub may sound differently. I’m not super 
> concerned with weight, but if all else is equal(including durability,) 
> weight could be a deciding factor. 
>
>
> What do you all think? Does anyone have experience with these rims/hubs? 
> Is there something else you'd suggest.  I've heard HED makes good rims that 
> would be Roadeo appropriate, but they seem to only come in black with 
> pretty pronounced graphics.  I like the bling of polished silver, but not 
> bling-y logos.  What would you choose in my place?  I should mention I’m a 
> 165lb rider, and I’d likely choose 32 spokes, front and back. Unless, of 
> course, someone feels like I could get away with 28 up front. 
>
>
> I’d love to hear any advice you’re willing to offer. Thank you for your 
> help. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Riv HHH Tandem (small)

[Adam Leibow]

hah, mine lives in my tiny hallway of a kitchen, too. luckily my gf loves 
it enough for this to be OK. g l w s

On Saturday, October 20, 2018 at 9:46:46 AM UTC-7, David Crowell wrote:
>
> Due to life changes, this bike has barely been ridden.  It's a small size 
> (Grant's recommendation: I'm 5'10", my wife, 5'1") blue-ish color.  SON 
> hub, rear disc brake, Schwalbe SuperMoto tires, Brooks saddles.  It's been 
> parked in my kitchen for nearly a year.  
>
> I don't have any pictures available right now, but can later, if there's 
> interest.
>
> I'll let it go for a steal.  $2500 firm.  I'm not sure about shipping - 
> it's too big.  I'm in Louisville, KY, and would be willing to haul it a 
> reasonable distance.
>

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[RBW] Re: wtb: bosco, paul things

[Adam Leibow]

i don't have what ur lookin for but FYI i believe the name love lever is 
long-pull specific. "canti lever" is the name of the short pull version. 
might help in your search. 

On Saturday, October 27, 2018 at 1:20:26 PM UTC-7, Patch T wrote:
>
> Hi all, rainy day shopping. 
>
> Looking for some used bits if you've got 'em:
>
> Boscoes. I think I'd like the 52 aluminum but would take the 55 cromo too. 
> I believe I am between sizes.
>
> Paul shifter mounts 
>
> Paul Love levers for short pull, not linear, open to any all 
> colors/finishes.
>
>
> I bet I have things to trade. 
>
> Thanks
>
> Patch
> BK/NY
>

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[RBW] Re: About a crash a Riv could have prevented

[Adam Leibow]

I have experienced a similar frustration with some of my bike-curious 
friends who are shy and cite all the normal ailments of getting into 
utilitarian cycling (riding in traffic is dangerous, i am not coordinated, 
bikes are expensive, etcetc whatever). 

I always explain Rivendell's all-arounder/utility bike sort of philosophy 
and then try to explain that the same style of bike that suits those 
commuter/grocery getter/ light trails needs can be made much cheaper with, 
for example, an early 90's specialized rockhopper full rigid frame and fork 
clad with sensible components and racks/basket/fenders, and that this kind 
of bike is much better than what $300-500 gets you in the new big-box bike 
world. 

more often than not, my friends walk into a store like REI or other big box 
bike store and drop $500 on a complete disc-braked, narrow-tired, compact 
geometry hybrid sort of thing made of aluminum and carbon. I think, in 
their eyes, lighter, more sleek, more modern looking, and disc brakes = 
better. But when something goes wrong (derailer comes out of alignment, 
discs begin to rub and squeal) they get frustrated that the "large" sum of 
money they spent didn't yield perfection. 

I don't know what can be done to deter this sort of thing from happening. I 
feel like if it needs to happen, it needs to happen. If a friend (or 
coworker) like this comes along, definitely give them the hard sell on 
Rivendell's philosophy, but do not be hurt if they veer off course and buy 
the modern bike that excites them. If they are interested enough in 
cycling, they'll find a niche of bikes that works for them. 

Some of my non-cyclist friends who refer to me as "the bike guy" or 
whatever and seem to think I'm very knowledgeable on bikes, are the first 
ones to avoid my opinion altogether. 

what can ya do?

On Thursday, November 1, 2018 at 12:10:38 PM UTC-7, Ash wrote:
>
> A new coworker who's also new to bikes, was going to get one for his 
> commute.  I commute to work on bike sometimes and may have talked about 
> bikes/biking in happy hours.  Maybe because of that he came to me one day 
> to consult what bike to buy.  I gave my *opinion* about what would make a 
> good commute bike: wider tires, rim brakes, cromo frame/fork, upright 
> riding, ability to carry some stuff, etc.   I gave him an intro to 
> Rivendell as well.  Offered to lend my Joe A for a fews days if he wanted 
> to get a better idea what I was talking about.
>
> Like most folks who are new to the world bikes would be, he wasn't sold 
> the need to spend  $1.6k (a Clem) on a bicycle for his short 2 mile 
> commute.  He ended up buying a bike that cost him 1/3rd of that.  It came 
> with disc brakes.
>
> Quite sadly, he had a bizarre crash couple of weeks ago.  Needed a surgery 
> to fix his wrist, get stitches on his face and so forth.  He now has a 
> steel rod in his forearm.   Here's what happened apparently: he was 
> peddling back from an event in his neighborhood on a Saturday afternoon. 
>  He encountered a patch of potholes along the bike lane.  He's not sure 
> what exactly occurred next, but all of the sudden he went over the 
> handlebars and landed on his chin :(  
>
> I've been wondering how in the world a bike can simply flip at slow 
> speeds.  That too, on a flat road.  I'm beginning to think the combo of 
> disc brake and short wheelbase might have something to do.  In my limited 
> experience with discs, my impression is that they can be much sharper 
> relative to rim brakes.   They are perhaps less forgiving on someone not 
> experienced in biking.  Someone who does not have a feel for how much to 
> sqeeze the front brake vs the rear.  Once the front wheel is locked, an SWB 
> is more likely to flip over than, let's say, an Appa or Clem, I'm thinking.
>
> In 2016, a cousine of mine had similar accident while riding with his 
> friends on a flat trail.  Both his wrists were shattered.  It took him 
> nearly 5 months to recover and return to work. (majority of the time he was 
> dependent on his wife to shower, wear cloths, etc etc.)
>
> I’ve always appreciated LWB of my Appa and MIT Atlantis from comfort 
> standpoint.  Now on I’m also be thanking them for being safer by design.
>
> In future if I hear about someone shopping for a bike, I'll be sure to 
> insert myself firmly into the process (even if it will annoy them) and try 
> harder make them get a Riv.  Sometimes it is a delicate task.  I have to 
> make sure I don't make them think bikes are unsafe except Rivendells.  *A* 
> bike is better than no bike.
>

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[RBW] WTB: 26" Dynamo Front Wheel

[Adam Leibow]

Hi all, 

interested in a dynamo hubbed front wheel for an atlantis, so in rim brake 
and silver. let me know what you got. also if you have the wheelset front 
and rear, i could be interested in this as long as the rear spacing is 
135mm. 

Thanks! 

Adam

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[RBW] Re: FS: Compass 700C x 38 Steilacoom pair

[Adam Leibow]

DM'd!

On Wednesday, November 14, 2018 at 10:51:35 AM UTC-8, Mark Schneider wrote:
>
> I have a pair of the Steilacoom's standard weight one mounted for about 
> 150 miles mixed riding and the other new still in packaging from Compass. 
> 65$ plus shipping for the pair, less than half price.
>

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[RBW] Re: Many nice Sam Hillbornes lately

[adam leibow]

the quoted clearance with the new canti sams is 47mm. i think the wtb 
riddler might be the perfect tire for this bike. i have a new one in sage & 
58 which has been a blast and the perfect commuter. i have learned what the 
OP has said about straddling niches is slightly true. it's not as 
light/nimble as my new titanium roadbike with a more aggressive position, 
25mm tires, & carbon fork, for example, and it's not as capable off road as 
my crust evasion with 2.8" tires and discs, but it's still really fun to 
ride, and probably the best when i don't know what kind of ride i want to 
do, or where i want to end up, just that i need to get outside. i see a lot 
of them all over san francisco and the east bay. 

On Wednesday, March 28, 2018 at 7:50:13 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> There have been photos of quite a few nice Sams on the list recently, 
> notably Paul Saporito's on the Blug and that slate gray one yesterday. (How 
> do y'all keep your bikes so damned *clean?*). I gather that the Sam must 
> be, if not the most popular Riv model, certainly up there with the top 3 
> (which are??? -- Sam, Atlantis, Appaloosa?).
>
> Particularly interesting is the variety of builds: uprights and drop bars, 
> touring and commuting with huge Wald baskets, and at least one recent 
> poster converted his to his main road bike.
>
> I briefly (12 months? 18?) owned a canti Sam, perhaps the original model, 
> in a 55, but found it straddled my particular niches too much -- wouldn't 
> take the fat tires I need here, for dirt riding in our river sand; too 
> beefy to feel as spritely as I want for a pure road bike -- and I had the 2 
> custom roads anyway. Also, the tt of that model was a bit too long, even 
> with the slacker (72? 71.5?) sta -- I hear that later models had, 
> relatively speaking, shorter tts. If mine had taken 50 mm tires and had a 
> cm off the tt, it would have made a nice bosque bomber that rode well on 
> pavement. (I think a Sam shod with 38 or 44 Compass extralights would be 
> very nice, tho' again the tires wouldn't work, for me, in our Rio Grande 
> river silt.)
>
> So: Am I right about the Sam being among the top 3 most popular models?
>
> And: You Sam owners: how do you build and use yours: errands, dirt, road 
> ...?
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
> **
> **
> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>

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[RBW] Re: New Bar for the Clem

[adam leibow]

nice clem!

On Monday, April 2, 2018 at 7:23:04 PM UTC-7, Jay Connolly wrote:
>
> Initially, I fitted my Clem with a Jones Loop bar, but with the long top 
> tube on the bike, the bar did not come back quite far enough. I did not 
> want a Bosco, however, because of the 4" rise and because it comes 
> wyy back. After looking around for a while, I settle on the Sycip 
> JB Bar, which is perfect. I'm now pretty much bolt upright and very 
> comfortable on the bike.
>
> I'm running a 10s 1x drivetrain (32 x 11-46). but I think I'll end up 
> reconfiguring the bike 2x before long. I live on a 265 care campus and 
> mostly use this to run errands around the place, but when I leave campus 
> for groceries, the five-mile ride to the store is mostly down hill, and as 
> someone on the board once wrote, the Clem is "sneaky fast," so I want a 
> little more top end.
>
> Jay
>

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[RBW] WTB: Map Ahearne Wide, Simworks Getaround, or Nitto Kite Bars

[adam leibow]

Hello

looking for a sweepy flat bar like the Map Ahearne (wide version & silver 
only) or the nitto Kite bar. Simworks get-around bar would also work

PLS let me know if you have some you wanna offload. text is fastest three 1 
oh nine six 3 sixnine 59. 

Thanks!

Adam

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[RBW] Re: Sam 1x9 or 10

[adam leibow]

if friction, stick with 9s. if index/trigger shifters, 9 or 10 is fine. 
9speed components will be cheaper on average. sunrace makes great wide 
range cassettes for either 9 or 10 speed (or 11, for that matter). my crust 
evasion with 1x11 (sram rival shifter, GX rear der, XT 11-42 cassette) 
pictured. 

On Thursday, April 19, 2018 at 7:40:15 AM UTC-7, Carla Waugh wrote:
>
> If you have your Sam setup like this could you let me know and how you 
> like it. Pictures would be great. 

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[RBW] WTB: 2x Slate Brooks Cambium C17/C17s or C19

[adam leibow]

Hello, 
 
I am looking for saddles for my Hubbbuhubbuh, & I'd like Slate Cambiums. 
Please let me know what version you have. I think just two regular C17 
would work, but if one of them were C17s or C19 that would work too. 

Thx
Adam (310) 963 6959 text works best. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Parts and stuff : Boscos, Noodles, Thumbies, B/E shifters

[adam leibow]

pm'd about the marks rack. 

On Sunday, April 22, 2018 at 9:46:36 PM UTC-7, moshmosh wrote:
>
> Hello folks,
> Need to clean out some room and move these parts. Prices include shipping 
> within the USA.
>
> Bosco handlebars, steel, 55cm: $60
> Nitto Noodles, 44cm: $40
> Paul thumbies, 22.2: $50
> Shimano Bar End shifters: 2 pair, $40 each
>
>
> Photos:
> https://goo.gl/photos/qutEL6LSRhDhVwyn8
>
> Thanks
>

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[RBW] Re: Cheviot fat tires

[adam leibow]

i've got the 29x50mm schwalbe big bens. they seem to max it out, wouldn't 
go bigger. great tire for the cheviot. makes it more mountain bikey. 

On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 8:25:27 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Ya know what happens when you put a dang e-motor on a Cheviot? It gets 
> faster and heavier, rendering the previously cushy 41.5 Fatty Rumpkins 
> kinda hard and narrow. I need bigger 650b tires and wonder what others have 
> used. The old brochure says 45mm without fenders is about the max. 
>
> Joe Bernard
> Novato CA. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Cheviot fat tires

[adam leibow]

On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 8:25:27 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Ya know what happens when you put a dang e-motor on a Cheviot? It gets 
> faster and heavier, rendering the previously cushy 41.5 Fatty Rumpkins 
> kinda hard and narrow. I need bigger 650b tires and wonder what others have 
> used. The old brochure says 45mm without fenders is about the max. 
>
> Joe Bernard
> Novato CA. 
>

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[RBW] Billie Bar initial review

[adam leibow]

in case anyone's curious. i bought some billie bars, and already have some 
miles on them. i didn't know these were coming out but i was checking the 
site periodically for the wavie bar and found these. i'm still gonna get 
the wavie bar for my hunqapillar but was happy to see these imho improved 
albatross. i had swapped out drop bars for albatross on my new canti-sam, 
but have always had mixed feelings about the albatross bar. i dont like how 
they come seemingly directly almost straight backwards towards you, and how 
narrow they feel. the billie's are better imho because they have more flair 
(a bit less gnarly sweep backwards) and are noticeably wider. they also 
have a way longer grippable real estate, and you can mount the brake levers 
forward or backward for a longer section of that grippable portion=more 
options/versatility. i chose to mount the brake levers pretty far forward, 
as the billies don't curve forward before turning backward quite as much as 
the alba's do, and i like my reach to be pretty stretched out. this allows 
a nice, more aggressive (though still technically very upright) descending 
position with brake levers in reach. and, if i'm chilling out, i can sit 
back and place my hands more towards the ends of the bars, a very upright 
sensation. most importantly, with the alba's i felt slightly out of control 
and endured a "a-second-too-late" sensation to steer to keep up with twisty 
singletrack or even road descents. the billie's width and added flair 
mitigate this to a degree that makes riding offroad quite a bit more 
enjoyable, while still being relaxed. so, im summary, billie=albatross+more 
flair outward/wider and longer grip portion. i am a fan for sure. here's 
some pics:







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[RBW] Re: Billie Bar initial review

[adam leibow]

thanks - yeah these bars are a nice happy medium between the albatross and 
something like the map ahearne bars (or how i expect the wavie bars will 
be). i got some more miles in on them yesterday and confirm they're still 
good. 

On Friday, May 18, 2018 at 9:08:04 PM UTC-7, adam leibow wrote:
>
> in case anyone's curious. i bought some billie bars, and already have some 
> miles on them. i didn't know these were coming out but i was checking the 
> site periodically for the wavie bar and found these. i'm still gonna get 
> the wavie bar for my hunqapillar but was happy to see these imho improved 
> albatross. i had swapped out drop bars for albatross on my new canti-sam, 
> but have always had mixed feelings about the albatross bar. i dont like how 
> they come seemingly directly almost straight backwards towards you, and how 
> narrow they feel. the billie's are better imho because they have more flair 
> (a bit less gnarly sweep backwards) and are noticeably wider. they also 
> have a way longer grippable real estate, and you can mount the brake levers 
> forward or backward for a longer section of that grippable portion=more 
> options/versatility. i chose to mount the brake levers pretty far forward, 
> as the billies don't curve forward before turning backward quite as much as 
> the alba's do, and i like my reach to be pretty stretched out. this allows 
> a nice, more aggressive (though still technically very upright) descending 
> position with brake levers in reach. and, if i'm chilling out, i can sit 
> back and place my hands more towards the ends of the bars, a very upright 
> sensation. most importantly, with the alba's i felt slightly out of control 
> and endured a "a-second-too-late" sensation to steer to keep up with twisty 
> singletrack or even road descents. the billie's width and added flair 
> mitigate this to a degree that makes riding offroad quite a bit more 
> enjoyable, while still being relaxed. so, im summary, billie=albatross+more 
> flair outward/wider and longer grip portion. i am a fan for sure. here's 
> some pics:
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gW2HMHBNUEc/Wv-iKx119RI/BOg/DwoZABhEnowsXkvmPyaJpgZBFAbzwvYbwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_6088.JPG>
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M3NniKGD9SY/Wv-iSD5HMLI/BOk/k6pTQZZKnH0FlFZpLVHKcLJPDQ0mLgUVwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_6087.JPG>
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PO9G4Y5EKQU/Wv-iEZp5efI/BOc/hqXNYvYg6rEK7s9vBCVRqtVqmG9JHq11wCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_6086.JPG>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Coffee Making Question

[adam leibow]

i bring an aeropress, hand grinder, filters, a strong titanium mug to press 
into, water, jetboil stove+fuel, and a scale. i know it sounds like a lot, 
but it's fun and not that big a deal if you're not on a multi day tour. do 
a 1:15 coffee-to-water ratio. boil the water but let it sit with the lid 
off for ~1 min to drop ~10° (boiling is too hot unless you're at ~5K 
elevation, then it's just right). 

On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 7:02:26 AM UTC-7, Jonathan D. wrote:
>
> I notice a strong correlation to those who love Riv Bikes, for a love of 
> coffee. On instagram I see a lot of coffee brewing bike kits for when folks 
> are out on their bikes. I am curious to know what people use. If you have a 
> coffee bike kit, would you share what you take with you? 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Ottolock Initial Reviews???

[adam leibow]

i have a newer one. i got the extra short one just to be ultra-minimal and 
light. this is great for locking up your bike for sub-5min jaunts to the 
liquor store in a nice neighborhood, or supplemental to a fat U lock as a 
front wheel or saddle lock. i just met someone who has one who someone 
tried to cut through and it didnt work (they were unable to cut through it 
quickly). this is a good sign that a bolt cutter is probably not enough, 
but i'd still use caution. 

On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 12:29:03 PM UTC-7, christian poppell wrote:
>
> Any users of the improved Ottolock out there? I heard the first batch was 
> comically easy to "pick" the combination lock. They fixed it enough that 
> Rivendell is now selling them. Anyone pick up the updated lock? Is 30" 
> enough lock? I keep finding myself without a good locking solution for 
> grocery and cafe stops. This looks like it could be a good option...
>
> Christian
> Berkeley, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.

[adam leibow]

i didn't read every comment so apologies if this has been said, but 
something that has happened to me in the past is the shift cable end that 
pops out of the front derailer ends up bending out, then every pedal stroke 
can pluck it and make a noise at that particular point in the crank 
rotation. this is often overlooked because ppl think it's a grease issue. 

On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 4:52:06 PM UTC-7, Nathan Neuberger wrote:
>
> I'm in need of some help with an aggravating problem. Several years ago my 
> bike developed a clicking sound. It occurs at the same spot in the crank 
> rotation. Curiously, the click does not always happen (sometimes its 
> sleeping), but tends to wake up most often during a climb or when I'm 
> hauling a load. But it occurs during easy riding as well.
>
>
> This winter, my bike was in need of some TLC, so I replaced the chain, 
> cassette, chainring set (but not the crank arms) and the bottom bracket. 
> Overhauled the hubs too. That covered almost every moving part, so I 
> figured that would solve it. Nope.
>
>
> I think it is likely a pedal issue. The clicking only occurs when my right 
> pedal is at about 12:00 (about to start a downstroke) and under relatively 
> heavy pressure. Just pedaling with my left foot does not seem to trigger 
> the click.
>
>
> Bike is a Rivendell Homer Hilsen (2009-ish).  The pedals are MKS grip 
> kings. I took off both pedals, cleaned them, replaced all bearings, and put 
> in tons of grease. I did not see or feel any issues with the races. The 
> click is still there, and seems to have gotten a little worse since I 
> overhauled the pedals. Could the click be caused by the pedal cone being 
> too tight?
>
>
> Any other ideas?
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 26er vs 29er

[adam leibow]

for bikepacking/offroad touring, 29er is what i'd choose. i have a 29er 
hunqapillar (54cm) and it rides really nice. it's as much of a mountain 
bike as touring bike, which means it's just really useful. i also have a 
crust evasion 26"+ which fills the same niche, but in a very different way. 
i like both styles of bike and wouldn't say one's better than the other. 
this all being said, i probably wouldn't use a 26" mountain bike for 
serious offroad touring unless it were a plus tire mounted to a wide rim 
(like the evasion), or if i were very short. 

On Saturday, June 9, 2018 at 10:59:12 AM UTC-7, Erik Wright wrote:
>
> Alright y'all, help me work out this inner quandary I've had over getting 
> a new bike or not (to replace one in my stable). The demo Hunqs shown on 
> the blug are really making my insides jump at the thought of a 29er Hunq 
> for offroad riding/bikepacking.
>
> I have 4 bikes, and I've tried specializing each (to an extent) because in 
> essence 3 of them are all-rounder type frames. I've turned one of them, a 
> 26er XO-1 clone, into my off-road tourer. 2.1" knobbies for trails, RTP for 
> roads/gravel, frame bag, front panniers, Swift saddle bag, On-One Mary bars 
> + Ergon grips, the whole getup. Recently I've been dabbling into resources 
> around 27.5 and 29er bikes for bikepacking (i.e. Surly Bridge Club and 
> Hunq), feeling that my 26er might not be the best choice nowadays in 
> today's landscape of bike options, falling short in the jack-of-all-trades 
> master-of-none kind of way.
>
> What I keep telling myself is the old adage that really, any bike will do 
> the trick (for the most part), and that my 26er XO-1 clone is a fine bike 
> for off-road touring. Plus, people rode (and ride) 26" MTBs for a lng 
> time and all was good. I don't ride offroad *that* much, but nowadways 
> when I plan multi-day trips they're geared toward mixed terrain**. I don't 
> doubt that a jump from my XO-1 clone to a Hunq would in itself make a huge 
> difference in ride quality, but in terms of wheel size, would swapping to a 
> 29er really make that big a difference?
>
> Thank you for your insight!
>
> Erik in Philly
>
> **Right now I'm in the midst of planning to ride a portion of the Idaho 
> Hot Springs MTB route in September.
>

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[RBW] Re: 58 Appaloosa Build (a tale of two bike frames)

[adam leibow]

hugh, i did the same exact thing when choosing my canti sam size. roman has 
the same-ish pbh as me and rides a 55 sam, so i test rode the 55 demo (and 
ive ridden his 55 w drops before), but it just felt small. i knew i wanted 
the 58 fit, & i'm glad i trusted my gut, esp. with sweep back bars. feels 
good




On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 8:05:09 AM UTC-7, Hugh Flynn wrote:
>
> It all started with a 55 Appaloosa which, with my 75.5 cm saddle height 
> was the right fit for me by the numbers on the Riv sizing charts. I built 
> it up as a for touring with Noodle bars and it was a blast to ride over the 
> mixed terrain rides I favor, and was comfortable for miles upon miles. 
>
> The problem? If *felt* small. I don’t mean that it was too small (saddle 
> height and reach to bars was the same as on my other bikes), it just felt 
> small. With the sloping tube it felt like the top tube was too far away and 
> with the 71 degree headtube, the steerer felt too close (needed a 120mm 
> stem to get the reach right). Something about the overall visual ballance 
> of it all wasn’t quite right for me. It sounds frivolous when I say it out 
> loud, but it is what it is man. I’m fussy.
>
> So, a month or so after building up the 55, I ordered a 58. Even by Riv 
> sizing recommendations my frame is too big, but it all feels, looks, and 
> rides perfectly   for me now. 
>
> Now I have to decide whether to sell or rebuild the 55 with a set of 
> bullmoose bars and fatter knobbies (which I think would be massively fun).
>
> Haven’t added racks and such, but I’ll get around to that.
>
>
>
> Hugh “big bike” Flynn
> Newburyport, MA
> -- 
> Hugh Flynn
> Newburyport, MA
>

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[RBW] Re: Billie Bar bar rotation at stem clamp?

[adam leibow]

i, too, weigh 190 and have a billie bar, and experienced this at the 
beginning. make sure no grease/lube/slippery stuff is at the clamp or bar 
surface(s). i took some ocean beach dirt/sand and threw it in the junction 
between stem and bar, scuffed it up slightly (carbon paste is smarter than 
this). then, crank 'er down even more at the stem clamp.

On Tuesday, June 19, 2018 at 6:32:16 PM UTC-7, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> I've been experience rotation of my Billie at the stem clamp when applying 
> heavy loads to the bar ends - wondering if anyone else has experienced this.
>
> I ask because of Grant's mentioning on the BLAHG about Nitto missing the 
> mark on the 22.2 bar end diameter; I'm wondering if they, too, potentially 
> hit under spec on the 25.4 clamp diameter, leading to the rotation I'm 
> experiencing. 
>
> Or, alternatively, at 190 lbs. with that long torque arm of a bar, I'm 
> just able to make it budge...
>
> Thanks,
> D.
>

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[RBW] FS: Many Stems, Bars, Bags

[adam leibow]

Hello! 

I might have done this before, but here is a link to my "selling stuff" 
instagram: instagram.com/adom_sale

Posting again since I just added my back stock of somewhat-Rivvy to 
very-Rivvy stems, bars, and bags. And I always am putting random stuff 
there for sale at pretty good prices. Feel free to make offers. I am 
located in San Francisco and shipping costs are listed with each item, 
respective of size and whatnot. 

Thanks all! 
Adam

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[RBW] Re: FS: Velocity Cliffhanger wheelset, Luxos U headlight

[adam leibow]

Mike, i am interested in the wheels - please text me (310) 963 6959. the 
email associated with my username is defunct and i can't email privately 
anymore. thanks

On Tuesday, June 26, 2018 at 7:05:04 PM UTC-7, mkernan...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Hey group, For sale is a very gently used,  very good condition Velocity 
> Cliffhanger wheelset. 36holes. Schmidt SON dynamo front hub/ XT rear hub. 
> Both hubs are standard quick release. Wheels are straight and true.
> $450 + shipping
> Tires are Maxxis Ikon 2.25, can be included in sale for extra $70.
>
> Also, a B and M Luxos U( with USB charger) $90+shipping.  
>
> Please contact off list.Thank you!   -Mike
>
>

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[RBW] FS: 29er/700C wheelset - xt hubs, mavic rims, 36h, silver. And new Maxxis Ikons

[adam leibow]

Hello! As the title states, I'm selling a Rivvy 29er/700c wheelset. I 
bought it used and it has lived on my Hunqapillar and Sam Hillborne. 

*spec's are as follows:*
- 622mm BSD (700c or 29er)
- XT HB-M760 hubs - quick release, 100F, 135R OLD spacing
- Mavic A719 Rims (very similar profile & width as Atlas or Synergy on 
Riv-standard wheelsets)
- 36h front and rear
- DT straight gauge spokes. 

I think that's it, am I forgetting anything? The rear bearings *are *a 
little notchy and slow when you spin them with your fingers, but not really 
noticeable when riding. Front bearings spin great. 

I also have a set of 29er Maxxis IKON 2.4"ers in black sidewall. they are 
the 120tpi tubeless ready version (nice). They have under 10 soft dirt 
miles on them and are virtually brand new except some dirt. 

Price for wheels alone = $120, price for wheels & tires = $200. Local 
pickup in SF (either Soma or Ocean Beach). Otherwise, please add actual 
shipping if you need them shipped. 

Please text me (3IO) nine sixz three - sizx nien 59. If you direct email me 
i won't see it. 

Thanks!!!
Adam


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[RBW] Re: Cutting rack struts without a vice

[adam leibow]

+1 for bolt cutters. quick and dirty

On Wednesday, June 27, 2018 at 6:54:53 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> How you do it?

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[RBW] Re: FS: 29er/700C wheelset - xt hubs, mavic rims, 36h, silver. And new Maxxis Ikons

[adam leibow]

sold

On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 12:45:02 PM UTC-7, adam leibow wrote:
>
> Hello! As the title states, I'm selling a Rivvy 29er/700c wheelset. I 
> bought it used and it has lived on my Hunqapillar and Sam Hillborne. 
>
> *spec's are as follows:*
> - 622mm BSD (700c or 29er)
> - XT HB-M760 hubs - quick release, 100F, 135R OLD spacing
> - Mavic A719 Rims (very similar profile & width as Atlas or Synergy on 
> Riv-standard wheelsets)
> - 36h front and rear
> - DT straight gauge spokes. 
>
> I think that's it, am I forgetting anything? The rear bearings *are *a 
> little notchy and slow when you spin them with your fingers, but not really 
> noticeable when riding. Front bearings spin great. 
>
> I also have a set of 29er Maxxis IKON 2.4"ers in black sidewall. they are 
> the 120tpi tubeless ready version (nice). They have under 10 soft dirt 
> miles on them and are virtually brand new except some dirt. 
>
> Price for wheels alone = $120, price for wheels & tires = $200. Local 
> pickup in SF (either Soma or Ocean Beach). Otherwise, please add actual 
> shipping if you need them shipped. 
>
> Please text me (3IO) nine sixz three - sizx nien 59. If you direct email 
> me i won't see it. 
>
> Thanks!!!
> Adam
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Fabio's Chest Feedback or Other

[adam leibow]

i have the fabios chest large and the swift zeitgeist large. I think this 
has been established but the fabios chest is significantly more voluminous 
than the zeitgeist. fwiw i also have a makeshifter outback saddlebag and 
the attention to detail and quality are amazing. if you have the dough and 
appreciate the craftswomanship, definitely go makeshifter. it's a bit 
bigger than the large zeitgeist but probably not as big as the small fabios 
chest. 

On Thursday, July 5, 2018 at 6:47:51 AM UTC-7, Dave Grossman wrote:
>
> Looking for some feedback from anyone who owns a Fabio's Chest.   Anyone 
> use it with Albatross bars or Jones bar?  Saddle mount it?  
>
> I have a Jumbo Jammer from Road Runner that I want to supplement with 
> another large bag and be done with using panniers.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Fabio's Chest Feedback or Other

[adam leibow]

Dave - the email associated with this username is defunct and i cant 
receive emails. just text me (310 /Nine 6 -three sixnine 59 

On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 2:38:53 PM UTC-7, Dave Grossman wrote:
>
> Thanks Adam.  I never heard of the Makeshifter but I really like it. 
>  Although I will likely miss the Fabios run I need to see what else is out 
> there.  Might PM you for more feedback if thats cool.

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[RBW] FS: 54 Hunqapillar Frameset & 58 Black Mtn Cycles Frameset (plus complete build options)

[Adam Leibow]

Hello All,


Listing two green framesets for sale. Both are in good *used* condition 
with no dents. There might be scratches here or there, but both are priced 
to sell and have long lives ahead of them. 


I can provide a complete build for the black mountain (w/ shimano 105 5800, 
paul minimotos, thomson stem & post, h plus son/5800 wheels, etc). 

I can provide a complete build for the hunqapillar, too (w/ riv standard 
velocity wheels, nitto post, sugino 3x9, nitto stem, several bar options, 
several tire options, etc)


Prices as follows:

Hunqapillar frame+fork+headset=$1,450 

Black Mountain frame+fork (no headset) - $400


If you want a complete(~ish) build, text me and we can discuss what I have 
and pricing. 


Thanks for looking - please text me at (310) nine six three 69-59


Best,


Adam









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[RBW] Re: FS: 54 Hunqapillar Frameset & 58 Black Mtn Cycles Frameset (plus complete build options)

[adam leibow]

also to note: i am looking to trade the hunqapillar for a 56 MIT atlantis

On Monday, July 9, 2018 at 10:33:58 AM UTC-7, Adam Leibow wrote:
>
> Hello All,
>
>
> Listing two green framesets for sale. Both are in good *used* condition 
> with no dents. There might be scratches here or there, but both are priced 
> to sell and have long lives ahead of them. 
>
>
> I can provide a complete build for the black mountain (w/ shimano 105 
> 5800, paul minimotos, thomson stem & post, h plus son/5800 wheels, etc). 
>
> I can provide a complete build for the hunqapillar, too (w/ riv standard 
> velocity wheels, nitto post, sugino 3x9, nitto stem, several bar options, 
> several tire options, etc)
>
>
> Prices as follows:
>
> Hunqapillar frame+fork+headset=$1,450 
>
> Black Mountain frame+fork (no headset) - $400
>
>
> If you want a complete(~ish) build, text me and we can discuss what I have 
> and pricing. 
>
>
> Thanks for looking - please text me at (310) nine six three 69-59
>
>
> Best,
>
>
> Adam
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N1vW_zqT21E/W0OVEHSR2cI/AQM/4grGJZztpXoD6fLlOpuIsrVUbVSSYS_YQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-09%2Bat%2B10.01.36%2BAM.png>
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lPvjjus4b-Y/W0OUvLITZGI/AQE/u9sAWAgGnSUZ8AFOZomYLZNy-iCsTtpXgCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-09%2Bat%2B10.00.00%2BAM.png>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 54 Hunqapillar Frameset & 58 Black Mtn Cycles Frameset (plus complete build options)

[Adam Leibow]

hunqapillar is sold

On Monday, July 9, 2018 at 10:33:58 AM UTC-7, Adam Leibow wrote:
>
> Hello All,
>
>
> Listing two green framesets for sale. Both are in good *used* condition 
> with no dents. There might be scratches here or there, but both are priced 
> to sell and have long lives ahead of them. 
>
>
> I can provide a complete build for the black mountain (w/ shimano 105 
> 5800, paul minimotos, thomson stem & post, h plus son/5800 wheels, etc). 
>
> I can provide a complete build for the hunqapillar, too (w/ riv standard 
> velocity wheels, nitto post, sugino 3x9, nitto stem, several bar options, 
> several tire options, etc)
>
>
> Prices as follows:
>
> Hunqapillar frame+fork+headset=$1,450 
>
> Black Mountain frame+fork (no headset) - $400
>
>
> If you want a complete(~ish) build, text me and we can discuss what I have 
> and pricing. 
>
>
> Thanks for looking - please text me at (310) nine six three 69-59
>
>
> Best,
>
>
> Adam
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N1vW_zqT21E/W0OVEHSR2cI/AQM/4grGJZztpXoD6fLlOpuIsrVUbVSSYS_YQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-09%2Bat%2B10.01.36%2BAM.png>
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lPvjjus4b-Y/W0OUvLITZGI/AQE/u9sAWAgGnSUZ8AFOZomYLZNy-iCsTtpXgCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-07-09%2Bat%2B10.00.00%2BAM.png>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS/T: Rich-built 700c/29er riv-standard wheelset (WTT for similar in 650b)

[Adam Leibow]

bump $220?

On Friday, July 13, 2018 at 10:17:33 AM UTC-7, adam leibow wrote:
>
> Hello, 
>
> As title states, I have a wheelset for sale (or trade for the same/similar 
> in 650b). Spec's as follows:
>
> - 700c/29er 
> - 36H 3x front and rear
> - 100/135 OLD spacing F/R, respectively
> - all silver
> - Velocity Atlas Rims
> - Silver -branded hubs (probably velocity?)
> - Rich-built (front wheel was replaced by him and is newer - bearings went 
> bad the first time around). 
>
> please don't private message me, it's a long story. text me (310) 963 six 
> nine five nine
>
> thanks!
> adam
>
>
>

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[RBW] FS: Rich-built Riv standard 700c/29er wheelset

[Adam Leibow]

Hello, looking to move a wheelset. 

Spec's are as follows:

all silver
Velocity Atlas rims
"Silver"-branded hubs
36h front and rear
100/135 spacing F/R

looking for $220 plus shipping. These were ~$400 new when I bought them at 
Riv HQ. text m (310) 963 6959

Thanks
Adam

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[RBW] Re: Bartubes discontinued

[adam leibow]

I bought a blue one and it looks amazing, the construction feels sturdy, 
and it fits my entire work outfit, meaning some days it's all I need for my 
commute to work. Lives between my hunqapillar and cheviot. 

On Saturday, December 2, 2017 at 2:13:59 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Apparently y'all aren't buying these fabulous bags so Riv has stopped 
> making them. I have one that travels with me from bike to bike: holds 
> phone, wallet, keys, reading glasses, patch kit and a mini pump, with room 
> leftover for an extra pair of maybe-it'll-get-cold-later gloves. 
> Hook-and-loop straps makes it super easy to bring into the store with you, 
> if you don't own at least one you're doing it wrong. I have a grey Bartube, 
> and just bought an olive one to bag matchy the old Baggins Hoss I just 
> bought. Get you one!

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[RBW] Re: Silver Shifter 2 project revived

[adam leibow]

IME these work well with up to 10speed in the cable pull department, but I 
haven't tried 11sp. I've used them with multiple bikes, derailers, and 
cassettes/chains including 8, 9, and 10s, and combinations that don't 
technically match, like a 9s rear derailer with 10s cassette or vice versa. 
all as DT shifters. I have never used them as thumbies. excited to see the 
new design...

On Sunday, December 3, 2017 at 6:12:54 PM UTC-8, dougP wrote:
>
> Interesting piece on the blug about the Silver Shifter 2 project coming 
> back to life.  Prototypes in house at RBWHQ, with photos.  
>
> "It’ll work fine on the downtube and better (than ever, than original 
> SILVER shifters) as a thumby or a bar-end shifter, because of the new 
> shape, heavily influenced by the 1983 SunTour XC thumb shifter. Slight 
> differences."
>
> IIRC, Grant had posted something a while back about this project fizzing 
> out for unstated reasons, so it's good to see it coming back to life.  I 
> was pretty interested so looking forward to seeing the production version.  
> These look to have much more character than the stand-by Shimano bar end on 
> Paul thumbie mount.  
>
> dougP
>

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[RBW] Re: Roadini as commuter?

[adam leibow]

I'd say go for it. I commute on all my bikes, and I can usually get away 
with riding my stupid-aggressive road bike with carbon fork and no 
braze-ons whatsoever to work when I use my sackville bar tube and 
roadrunner wedge half frame bag. I am interested in a Roadini myself, and 
imagine my Makeshifter Outback saddlebag to be a perfect option for 
carrying the fresh clothes, lunch, and occasional laptop I portage on my 
commutes. Personally, I'd steer clear of using P clamps, a nitto rack & 
wald basket, in favor of the more elegant Makeshifter or something like a 
carradice. In my eyes a roadini is "commuter-lite" or "creative commuter" 
and your LHT is "commuter proper" or "commuter pro"


On Monday, January 8, 2018 at 6:23:48 PM UTC-8, Patrick S. wrote:
>
> Hey there, not an RBW owner (yet) but had a question concerning the 
> Roadini and thought you fine folks might be interested in giving your 
> "unbiased" opinion. 
>
> I've been commuting (approx 2400km / season) with a Surly LHT 26" for the 
> past while and am really interested in the Roadini for its geometry (higher 
> cockpit and shorter wheelbase) and looks (of course). I carry about 
> 10/15lbs up front and ride in all types of weather. Just wondering if 
> anyone here has built one up and what's their experience so far?
>
> Cheers!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Matt from Crust - PLP Talks

[adam leibow]

thanks for posting this. Crust is great. I have 2x Riv & 2x Crust 
(Romanceur + Evasion). I feel the same warmth in the customer service as 
with Rivendell. 

On Tuesday, January 9, 2018 at 6:31:11 AM UTC-8, sean wrote:
>
> Hello Rivsters,
>
> I know there is some Crust love among my fellow Rivendellians. Well, Russ 
> at PLP has a great interview with Matt from Crust.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5eJzXVzKFg
>
> Riv content (spoiler) - Matt expresses his admiration for Grant and 
> Rivendell.
>
> Sean
> ATX
>

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[RBW] Re: Roadini as commuter?

[adam leibow]

Nothing is altogether wrong with P clamps, I just see them as an inelegant 
solution both visually and in concept.

On Tuesday, January 9, 2018 at 10:55:34 PM UTC-8, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> Whats wrong with p clamps?

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[RBW] Re: Adam's Chev on the BLUG

[adam leibow]

Sean, 

Sorry for the delay in reply. I have the large wald basket, which I guess 
rivbike.com calls "huge." I recommend this size. The medium feels small and 
my girlfriend would tell you it's not big enough (she has it on her 
Atlantis) for commuting and general use. The Large/Huge (whatever you want 
to call it) is the sweet spot IMO where you can fit a ton of stuff in it, 
almost to the point where you probably risk hurting/bending your smaller 
nitto rack if you overfill it with heavy stuff. This is why I have the 
marks rack with double struts + irish strap connecting the tombstone on the 
rack to the bars for added support. Something like a pass and stow would be 
able to handle a heavier load with more confidence but looks less elegant 
and adds even more weight to the total ride. 

Additionally, if you ever bike camp, the medium won't be big enough by a 
longshot IME. My fav setup for a s24o would be the combo of the marks rack 
with large/huge basket and large sackville (pictured on my cheviot) plus a 
large saddlebag like a Makeshifter outback or Ultra Swift Fabios chest or 
w/e it's called. 

The reason I am hesitant to call the large "huge" (as Rivendell does) is 
there exists an even larger size, "giant," which is truly huge and might be 
confused as being the "huge" Riv sells, were you to ask for the "huge" at 
your local bike store. 

Happy Trails

Adam




On Monday, December 25, 2017 at 8:31:47 AM UTC-8, SeanMac wrote:
>
>
> Great looking bike, Adam.
>
> I've got a 60 cm in grey that I built up over the summer.  It is used as a 
> grocery getter and a trail rider.  With winter firmly in place in western 
> New York, I've got the bike in the basement so that I can make a few 
> modifications.  I currently have a Mark's rack on the bike and an Ostrich 
> handlebar bag.  However, I would like to replace the bag with a Wald 
> basket.  However, I am struggling to decide whether to get the medium or 
> the huge Wald basket.  
>
> What rack / basket combo is on your Cheviot?  Do you have any issues with 
> the brake / shift cables getting in the way of the basket?
>
> Thanks for the information.  I'd love to hear suggestions / 
> recommendations from the group.
>
> Sean
> EA, NY
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: My new Cheviot

[adam leibow]

Is it possible to make this a shiftable 2-speed with a front derailer? 

On Wednesday, January 10, 2018 at 6:21:57 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I interrupt my recent hiatus because A. It seemed stupid, B. I promised I 
> would show off my new Cheviot, and C. Maybe this will serve as 
> encouragement for anyone on the fence about a shiney new Riv to take the 
> jump. Apologies for the lousy indoor shots, I finally got the build 
> finished and just did some laps around the block after sunset. I'll had a 
> sunny outdoor album to this thread soon. 
>
> RBW Blue Cheviot 55cm.
> Nitto stem and Choco bars.
> Stock seatpost and my trusty Brooks B17 ti saddle.
> Tektro R559 brakes and those curvy Tektro levers Riv sells (the copy 
> mentions that they have kind of a 'brake from the hoods' position unusual 
> for mtb levers, and this is immediately noticeable. Very nice levers).
> Ergon grips, German mirror. 
> Velocity Synergy 650B wheelset from a listmember, LX rear, some kinda 
> Shimano dynohub front, some kinda B&M light from another member (thanks, 
> members!)
> Fatty Rumpkin tires with the lovely (and apparently accidental) red-ish 
> brown sidewalls. Trivia: the blue label on the tires looks nifty on the 
> blue frame. Sweet!
> 17t single cog located with two Gear Clamps, Paul Melvin tensioner.
> Sugini Quickbeam-ish double, 40-26.
> 8-speed chain..don't use 9-speed on this setup, it fits too tight on the 
> single cog.
> MKS Sylvan Touring pedals.
>
> Verdict: It's fantastic! Of course this is an extremely limited first 
> impression, but it feels light and nimble like other Riv road-ish bikes 
> I've owned. My snap judgment is more Hilsen than Appaloosa, but that could 
> be my brain biasing towards looking at road brakes whole I'm pedaling..who 
> knows??
>
> My first impression of the 2-speed arrangement is that it's a singlespeed 
> and I'll probably never bother to stop and "shift". I purposely went this 
> direction because I've gotten maddenly out of shape the last couple years 
> and riding ebikes only exaserbated the problem, so I intend to grind out 
> the big gear as much as possible. But it's nice to know the granny is there 
> if I really need it. Fortunately I've just moved from the monster hill I 
> was living on, or I wouldn't have even attempted this. 
>
> The plan right now - especially since I also just bought Patrick the 
> Deacon's Haul-a-Day - is to keep this on the minimalist end with no racks. 
> I have some shorty wood fenders coming which is probably pushing the 
> minimalist thing too far for a lugged steel bike with full eyelets, but I 
> saw that setup once on a Specialized Langster fixie and for some reason I 
> like the look. 
> Get a Cheviot!  
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/879LccVHzlW0mRsG3
>
> Here's the Haul-a-Day, also not great shots. 
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/HIZdXsNfDPnnGDdb2
>
> Joe Bernard
> Novato CA. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: My new Cheviot

[adam leibow]

nice, joe! sometime i'll try out that 2x1 setup. looks super fun. 

On Wednesday, January 10, 2018 at 6:21:57 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I interrupt my recent hiatus because A. It seemed stupid, B. I promised I 
> would show off my new Cheviot, and C. Maybe this will serve as 
> encouragement for anyone on the fence about a shiney new Riv to take the 
> jump. Apologies for the lousy indoor shots, I finally got the build 
> finished and just did some laps around the block after sunset. I'll had a 
> sunny outdoor album to this thread soon. 
>
> RBW Blue Cheviot 55cm.
> Nitto stem and Choco bars.
> Stock seatpost and my trusty Brooks B17 ti saddle.
> Tektro R559 brakes and those curvy Tektro levers Riv sells (the copy 
> mentions that they have kind of a 'brake from the hoods' position unusual 
> for mtb levers, and this is immediately noticeable. Very nice levers).
> Ergon grips, German mirror. 
> Velocity Synergy 650B wheelset from a listmember, LX rear, some kinda 
> Shimano dynohub front, some kinda B&M light from another member (thanks, 
> members!)
> Fatty Rumpkin tires with the lovely (and apparently accidental) red-ish 
> brown sidewalls. Trivia: the blue label on the tires looks nifty on the 
> blue frame. Sweet!
> 17t single cog located with two Gear Clamps, Paul Melvin tensioner.
> Sugini Quickbeam-ish double, 40-26.
> 8-speed chain..don't use 9-speed on this setup, it fits too tight on the 
> single cog.
> MKS Sylvan Touring pedals.
>
> Verdict: It's fantastic! Of course this is an extremely limited first 
> impression, but it feels light and nimble like other Riv road-ish bikes 
> I've owned. My snap judgment is more Hilsen than Appaloosa, but that could 
> be my brain biasing towards looking at road brakes whole I'm pedaling..who 
> knows??
>
> My first impression of the 2-speed arrangement is that it's a singlespeed 
> and I'll probably never bother to stop and "shift". I purposely went this 
> direction because I've gotten maddenly out of shape the last couple years 
> and riding ebikes only exaserbated the problem, so I intend to grind out 
> the big gear as much as possible. But it's nice to know the granny is there 
> if I really need it. Fortunately I've just moved from the monster hill I 
> was living on, or I wouldn't have even attempted this. 
>
> The plan right now - especially since I also just bought Patrick the 
> Deacon's Haul-a-Day - is to keep this on the minimalist end with no racks. 
> I have some shorty wood fenders coming which is probably pushing the 
> minimalist thing too far for a lugged steel bike with full eyelets, but I 
> saw that setup once on a Specialized Langster fixie and for some reason I 
> like the look. 
> Get a Cheviot!  
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/879LccVHzlW0mRsG3
>
> Here's the Haul-a-Day, also not great shots. 
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/HIZdXsNfDPnnGDdb2
>
> Joe Bernard
> Novato CA. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Adam's Chev on the BLUG

[adam leibow]

just saw it, Joe - looking good. i'll try mine like this eventually...

On Friday, January 12, 2018 at 3:46:25 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Hey Adam, I got the front derailer installed on my 2-speed Chev and it 
> shifted great with the Paul Melvin. It's a really cool setup 👍 (new pics 
> on my Cheviot thread) 

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[RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[adam leibow]

Hey Dave, 

I have gone through a similar process. I wanted to get what everyone else 
got with albatross. I found that I liked a bosco bar for riding two blocks 
to the grocery or bar, but not for "real" rides, and not on my nicer bikes. 
I bought a Cheviot because I wanted the full upright, true Rivendell 
experience, but when I tried it with Choco bars, took them and sold them 
after one ride around the block. 

I found a great happy medium with regular nitto bullmoose bars.  Since I am 
on the smaller end of who fits a 60cm chev, my seatpost is slammed and the 
bike is upright no matter which bars I put on it. The slight rise of the 
bullmoose makes it even more so. I find that with a drop or regular 
flat/riser/mountain bar, my weight is more evenly distributed over both 
wheels, and with a bosco or alba, my weight is shifted more towards the 
rear, and that these bars prevent the style of riding I appreciate with 
drops or bullmoose. You can see pictures of this set up on the Blug, under 
"Adam Leibow's Cheviot" in the user-submitted rides part. 

hope this helps!

On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 12:16:13 PM UTC-8, Dave Small wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> As I read more and more testimonials from people about how awesome their 
> switch was to upright handlebars, I wanted to try 'em.  I like drop bars as 
> long as they're saddle-height or higher, but there's a semi-conscious part 
> of me that feels the teensiest-bit compelled to push drop-bar bikes just a 
> little, and sometimes I want to just putz along and enjoy the scenery, and 
> not even consider my speed or trip time.  Plus, as I get older I thought 
> that uprights may be in my future anyway, so why not give 'em a shot now?
>
> So, I took a Velo-Orange Polyvalent and replaced the drop bars with 
> porteur bars.  It's okay, but I feel like I'm kinda caught between a 
> forward lean and sitting upright, in a no-man's land of Tweenerville.  So 
> maybe this isn't the right bike on which to test upright bars, I thought, 
> so I converted a V-O Campeur from drop bars to V-O Left Bank bars.  Nope, I 
> thought, not fond of this.  But those Albatross bars that everyone thinks 
> is the bees knees?---let's try *those* on the Campeur!  It was better, 
> and I thought it might actually be fine, but the more I rode it the less I 
> liked it, so I swapped the bars back to drop and was reminded of what a 
> great bike the Campeur is---with drops.  
>
> Maybe those are the wrong bikes for uprights, I though, so I bought a 
> Cheviot and set it up with Albatross bars, 'cause the Cheviot was 
> *designed* for Albatross bars and Albas are *the best*, right?  Right? 
>  Everyone says so, so it must be true.  As I was engaging in this 
> experiment I thought to myself that would be the Gold Standard of 
> Upright-Bar Setups, and if I don't like this then I must not like upright 
> bars---but meanwhile I was sure it'd be *good* because everyone says it 
> is.  
>
> I don't like it.  A couple of days ago I took it out for what I'd intended 
> to be a 13-mile trial ride to see how things went at that relatively short 
> distance, and ended up going 24 miles.  That's a typical ride for me on a 
> drop-bar bike, and know how I feel when I get home.  On the Cheviot I felt 
> slow and never quite comfortable in a upright position, with the most 
> natural feeling coming when I was stretched out (relatively speaking) and 
> holding onto the bends that are furtherest toward the front.  But that's 
> close to where the bends would be on a drop-bar bike, so in essence I was 
> mimicking the position I'd be in on such a bike, and wasn't comfortable in 
> the position in which the Albas were designed to put me.  Also, my hands 
> got kinda numb and didn't work well; toward the end of the ride I tried to 
> wave a car through an intersection ahead of me by waving my fingers, and 
> they wouldn't bend.  I went a longer distance than I'd initially planned to 
> on that ride because I thought maybe I needed more time or distance to 
> acclimate to the Albas, but instead of things feeling better they felt 
> worse as the ride progressed.  
>
> With that background, I have 2 questions for the group:
>
> 1.  Has anyone else experienced something similar and then fixed it, for 
> example by raising or lowering the bars or the angle of the bars or 
> changing the stem extension?  There was a recent thread that indicated not 
> everyone likes upright bars (which I read only after I'd built up the 
> Cheviot), but it didn't get to my specific question about whether someone 
> could convert from nonliker to liker of uprights by adjusting 'em.  
>
> 2.  Has anyone used drop bars on a Cheviot?  I know they're not designed 
> for drops, but given that I liked the extended position the best, I'm 
> thinking that drops might be more suitable for me than uprights.  And 
> follow-up question:  Would drops on a Cheviot make it essentially a mixte 
> Sam Hillborne but with longer chain stays?  I'm th

[RBW] Re: New Roadini or hang on to Sam

[adam leibow]

I kind of just suffered in making the same decision. I was all set to buy a 
roadini and the second I saw the new sage Sams on the instagram, I changed 
my mind. I wanted a fast road-ish bike, but the new Sam looked so good and 
the reality is I always end up riding dirt. Figured the Sam would be fast 
enough on the roads ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 4:40:04 PM UTC-8, Tim Bantham wrote:
>
> Hello friends, I'm looking to do a road bike build and I am having trouble 
> deciding between keeping the Sam Hillborne frameset that I already own or 
> go in an entirely different direction starting from scratch with a new 
> Roadini frameset. I purchased the drop bar Sam as a complete in 2016. This 
> was my first Riv and I completely embraced the Rivendell philosophy of 
> "just ride". That drop bar Sam eventually morphed into an upright Albatross 
> set up. I got away from the drop bars because I wanted to try upright 
> riding to gain maximum comfort. This setup eventually became my S240 bike 
> and I became much more interested in riding with a heavy touring load. As 
> my interest in camping and touring grew I decided that I wanted a dedicated 
> tourer so I picked up an Appaloosa frame and swapped most of the parts over 
> from the Sam.  The Sam frameset is currently sitting in my basement. 
>
> I have decided that my riding would be best served by having two different 
> bike setups. I want to keep the Appaloosa for camping, touring, grocery 
> getting, commuting and casual riding with the Mrs. I want a second bike to 
> be a dedicated drop bar road bike that is unencumbered with racks and large 
> bags. I am thinking about building the Sam back up as a traditional sporty 
> road bike with a compact double crankset, the noodle bars that I already 
> own along with JB 33.'s and fenders. I want this bike to be my 
> relatively fast bike that I ride when I am looking to go out and get a 
> quick ride for pure recreation and fitness. I may even be ambitious enough 
> to go do a group ride with my old riding buddies from back in my racer 
> wannabe days. Lately, the Roadini has been the object of my desire. I am 
> thinking that if I get back into riding on the road in a typical club rider 
> fashion that I would be better served by having a more traditional road 
> bike like the Roadini. My vision for a Roadini would be to build it up in a 
> retro style with downtube shifters, Noodles, Sugino compact double and 28 
> to 33mm tires. 
>
> I think my desire for the Roadini is mostly driven by new bike lust. I 
> feel like I am constantly chasing that feeling you get when you buy a new 
> bike. The reality is what I have found through the years and many bike 
> purchases later is that "new bike day" euphoria typically fades fades and I 
> ended up chasing that feeling again with something else. I know that you 
> guys are not my therapist but can anybody share their thoughts on what 
> decision to make? Should I keep the Sam  and reinvent it as a sporty road 
> bike or should I take the plunge and go for a new Roadini to satisfy my 
> sporty road bike urge?
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[adam leibow]

OJ!

On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 12:16:13 PM UTC-8, Dave Small wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> As I read more and more testimonials from people about how awesome their 
> switch was to upright handlebars, I wanted to try 'em.  I like drop bars as 
> long as they're saddle-height or higher, but there's a semi-conscious part 
> of me that feels the teensiest-bit compelled to push drop-bar bikes just a 
> little, and sometimes I want to just putz along and enjoy the scenery, and 
> not even consider my speed or trip time.  Plus, as I get older I thought 
> that uprights may be in my future anyway, so why not give 'em a shot now?
>
> So, I took a Velo-Orange Polyvalent and replaced the drop bars with 
> porteur bars.  It's okay, but I feel like I'm kinda caught between a 
> forward lean and sitting upright, in a no-man's land of Tweenerville.  So 
> maybe this isn't the right bike on which to test upright bars, I thought, 
> so I converted a V-O Campeur from drop bars to V-O Left Bank bars.  Nope, I 
> thought, not fond of this.  But those Albatross bars that everyone thinks 
> is the bees knees?---let's try *those* on the Campeur!  It was better, 
> and I thought it might actually be fine, but the more I rode it the less I 
> liked it, so I swapped the bars back to drop and was reminded of what a 
> great bike the Campeur is---with drops.  
>
> Maybe those are the wrong bikes for uprights, I though, so I bought a 
> Cheviot and set it up with Albatross bars, 'cause the Cheviot was 
> *designed* for Albatross bars and Albas are *the best*, right?  Right? 
>  Everyone says so, so it must be true.  As I was engaging in this 
> experiment I thought to myself that would be the Gold Standard of 
> Upright-Bar Setups, and if I don't like this then I must not like upright 
> bars---but meanwhile I was sure it'd be *good* because everyone says it 
> is.  
>
> I don't like it.  A couple of days ago I took it out for what I'd intended 
> to be a 13-mile trial ride to see how things went at that relatively short 
> distance, and ended up going 24 miles.  That's a typical ride for me on a 
> drop-bar bike, and know how I feel when I get home.  On the Cheviot I felt 
> slow and never quite comfortable in a upright position, with the most 
> natural feeling coming when I was stretched out (relatively speaking) and 
> holding onto the bends that are furtherest toward the front.  But that's 
> close to where the bends would be on a drop-bar bike, so in essence I was 
> mimicking the position I'd be in on such a bike, and wasn't comfortable in 
> the position in which the Albas were designed to put me.  Also, my hands 
> got kinda numb and didn't work well; toward the end of the ride I tried to 
> wave a car through an intersection ahead of me by waving my fingers, and 
> they wouldn't bend.  I went a longer distance than I'd initially planned to 
> on that ride because I thought maybe I needed more time or distance to 
> acclimate to the Albas, but instead of things feeling better they felt 
> worse as the ride progressed.  
>
> With that background, I have 2 questions for the group:
>
> 1.  Has anyone else experienced something similar and then fixed it, for 
> example by raising or lowering the bars or the angle of the bars or 
> changing the stem extension?  There was a recent thread that indicated not 
> everyone likes upright bars (which I read only after I'd built up the 
> Cheviot), but it didn't get to my specific question about whether someone 
> could convert from nonliker to liker of uprights by adjusting 'em.  
>
> 2.  Has anyone used drop bars on a Cheviot?  I know they're not designed 
> for drops, but given that I liked the extended position the best, I'm 
> thinking that drops might be more suitable for me than uprights.  And 
> follow-up question:  Would drops on a Cheviot make it essentially a mixte 
> Sam Hillborne but with longer chain stays?  I'm thinking yes, and I don't 
> need to duplicate the 2 Sams I already have.  
>
> Thanks in advance for any input on this.  I know I could continue to play 
> with set-ups and hope to stumble across a solution, but I'm tired of that 
> and about ready to give up on the Cheviot and am hoping to find a solution 
> more efficiently than trial and error, if one exists.  If I can't get to 
> liking the Cheviot then I'm gonna consider that I'm in the 
> don't-care-for-uprights camp, but first wanted to eliminate the possibility 
> that there's a simple solution I'm just not seeing.  
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem L Sizing for Wife with 87.5 PBH

[adam leibow]

I have an 87.5 pbh exactly and I would go with the 59. Less exposed 
seatpost, a more elegant look IMHO, and no worries that standover will be a 
problem. On the blug post a few weeks back, my green 60cm cheviot with 
cream tires might give you an idea of the fit it could look like. 

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 6:21:48 PM UTC-8, tc wrote:
>
> Hey, 
> The 52 and 59 Clem L's sizing overlaps quite a bit.  Does anyone out there 
> with a 52 Clem L and an 87-88 PBH wish they'd gotten a 59?  Or vice-versa?
>
> My wife is considering one.  We'll talk with the Riv folks, but I'd love 
> to hear of any experience you all have if you're in the same PBH range with 
> either size Clem L.  If you have a pic showing how much saddle post is 
> showing that'd be even better - thanks.
>
> Tom
>

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[RBW] Re: Bullmoose vs. Choco-moose

[adam leibow]

"singletrack mountain bike trails with very little road riding going on, so 
quick handling, secure gripping, and easy turning is a plus"

based on this quote from the op i'd 100% go regular bullmoose. when you 
ride super swept back bars, you give up control for comfort IMO. I have had 
the bullmoose on my hunqapillar and now my cheviot, they're great for MTB. 
choco moose would be strong enough but the turning is slower and your 
weight on the bike is wrong for quick zippy singletrack and mountain bike 
situations in my experience. The standard bullmoose still rise and are 
still an upright bar compared with drops and modern MTB bar/stems. best of 
both worlds..



On Thursday, February 8, 2018 at 12:53:20 PM UTC-8, Ryan Merrill wrote:
>
> I'm pondering bars for my Appaloosa I ordered and have a choice to make.  
> I'm thinking about some sort of 'moose bar having already had the Bosco 
> Bullmoose in the past and liked them. My choice for this bike is coming 
> down to the regular Bullmoose bar or the Choco-moose bar but can't figure 
> out if I want a more flattish hand hold like a regular flat mtb bar or one 
> that puts my wrists like they would be on a choco bar...almost like if they 
> were on the drops of a drop bar, I guess. 
>
> I'll be using this bike primarily on gravel roads and singletrack mountain 
> bike trails with very little road riding going on, so quick handling, 
> secure gripping, and easy turning is a plus. 
>
> any ideas?  Do you think the reach to the bullmoose bars will be a bit too 
> dramatic compared to the choco bars on the Appaloosa?
>
> Next decisions will be what tires, what shifting mechanism, what crankset, 
> ect, ect, ect. (the fun part of buying a bike, IMHO.)
>
>
> thanks, 
>
>
> btw, I changed my name so no longer RJM
>
>
>

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[RBW] New Sage Canti Sam Hillborne

[adam leibow]

a week ago today i left work an hour early, rode my skateboard to bart to 
walnut creek, skated to HQ from bart, and picked up a new 58cm canti sam in 
sage. i spent that night building the bike with parts bin parts and parts 
stolen from other bikes in order to ride it on the boyzonthehoods super 
bowl escape campout. i was up until almost 2 in the morning, but i got it 
done and made the ride to camp, despite a too-short chain and. my friend 
had his nice dslr and shot this photo 



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[RBW] Re: New Sage Canti Sam Hillborne

[adam leibow]

thanks everybody for the nice words

Edwin, the bars are nitto noodle 46cm and the stem is 7cm long. i am at the 
lower end of PBH that fit this size sam but i wanted the bigger version for 
a more relaxed fit and was willing to use a short stem. 

Adam in Indiana - re. tire clearance, I think the WTB riddler 700x45 might 
be the perfect tire for this bike, maxing out the clearance probably. i 
wish wtb did a 700c byway, that would be perfect too. compass snoqualmie 
pass might be in this bike's future, too, though they are not maxing it out 
by any means. Eventually I might stick my Cheviot's Schwalbe Big Ben 700x50 
in the Sam's fork to see if it fits, but my gut tells me it won't. 

Jay in Tel Aviv - i took the frameset over my shoulder and skated back to 
bart, then got off in downtown san francisco and took a lyft home. I got 
several compliments on the way back-- "nice rivendell!" in walnut creek 
bart and "beautiful frame" at montgomery bart station in SF. as soon as I 
stepped onto market street I saw a bridgestone XO-1 and a Simpleone being 
ridden, good luck signs no doubt. 

On Friday, February 9, 2018 at 1:30:45 PM UTC-8, adam leibow wrote:
>
> a week ago today i left work an hour early, rode my skateboard to bart to 
> walnut creek, skated to HQ from bart, and picked up a new 58cm canti sam in 
> sage. i spent that night building the bike with parts bin parts and parts 
> stolen from other bikes in order to ride it on the boyzonthehoods super 
> bowl escape campout. i was up until almost 2 in the morning, but i got it 
> done and made the ride to camp, despite a too-short chain and. my friend 
> had his nice dslr and shot this photo 
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gl0-QvLrG9c/Wn4R0pB8gWI/BMQ/uWg-IgZlAho52Z3iEb_Jogds_0QfgnHpQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_3119.JPG>
>

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[RBW] Re: Informal poll: Sam Hillborne sizing, 6' tall about an 85PBH?

[adam leibow]

Hey John,


I just bought a 58cm SH and I am 5'-9" with 87.5 PBH. I have very long legs 
for my height, so I figured I could fit the bigger size and I was right. 
The TT is proportionally long but it feels good with 7cm stem and 46cm 
noodles. I would forsure go 58 if it were me. Depends how low/high you want 
the bars. I like bars & saddle to be about even, and this does the trick. 

On Thursday, February 15, 2018 at 11:38:19 PM UTC-8, John W wrote:
>
> Hello folks,
>
> I'm reaching out for some input regarding current Sam Hillbornes.
>
> I'm 6' tall with an 85PBH (say, 86.25 PBH with shoes.) Saddle height 
> ~75cm, a Brooks B17 which runs about 6cm tall.
>
> Riv recommends a size 55 frame, but I know I could ride a 58. I'll ride on 
> pavement and trails. Less so, gnarly track. And I'll set up drop bars about 
> 1cm lower than my saddle. 
>
> My concerns are:
>
> — will I have enough exposed stem above the headset and cable hanger in 
> front?
> — will the bike handle oddly with just ~2cm of exposed stem?
> — am I setting myself up for the inability to use taller upright bars in 
> the future?
>
> I cribbed this photo from a fellow with a shorter saddle height than me:
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37347002@N05/4354827488/in/pool-hillborne/
>
> The 55 is the safe bet, while the 58 looks doable. 
>
> I'm cautious of getting a bike that's too small for me. Generally 
> speaking, I'm a 56cm on Surly road frames and I don't feel stretched out on 
> them.
>
> What say you? 55 or 58?
>
> Separately, looking at the geo charts on Riv's site, the Stack and Reach 
> measurements on the Sam Hillbornes look off to me, but perhaps I'm not 
> correctly parsing the effect of the 71.5 STA.
>
> Apologies for the naval gazing email. Any input would be appreciated.
>
> John in NYC
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB/WTT- 40 hole 145mm rear hub, or wheel with one. + other tandemy things

[adam leibow]

pm'd you. I have the stem you need, brand new. 

On Tuesday, February 20, 2018 at 8:19:23 AM UTC-8, Kainalu V. wrote:
>
> Hi RBWers,
> Cross posted from the Bob list, hopefully one of you unBobbed can help me 
> out...
> I'm looking for a reasonably high quality 40 hole 145mm hub, disk braked 
> preferably, but I'm open to available options. This tandem is sized for 
> 650b wheels, so the plan would be to lace the hub to some Velocity 
> Cliffhangers and go go go! Please contact me offlist at kaivierstra at 
> gmail . com if you have one to sell or trade. 
> Also hoping to get a 40 hole dynamo hub as well, but I think that's much 
> more of a rare bird in good used form. 
> And a nice and long (hopefully telescoping) stoker stem to fit a 29.8 
> post. 25.4 or 26 bar clamp
> Thanks
> -Kai
> BK NY
>

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[RBW] Re: My new Cheviot

[adam leibow]

per this thread, i just 2-speeded my chev with a melvin and it's really 
cool. 

On Wednesday, January 10, 2018 at 6:21:57 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I interrupt my recent hiatus because A. It seemed stupid, B. I promised I 
> would show off my new Cheviot, and C. Maybe this will serve as 
> encouragement for anyone on the fence about a shiney new Riv to take the 
> jump. Apologies for the lousy indoor shots, I finally got the build 
> finished and just did some laps around the block after sunset. I'll had a 
> sunny outdoor album to this thread soon. 
>
> RBW Blue Cheviot 55cm.
> Nitto stem and Choco bars.
> Stock seatpost and my trusty Brooks B17 ti saddle.
> Tektro R559 brakes and those curvy Tektro levers Riv sells (the copy 
> mentions that they have kind of a 'brake from the hoods' position unusual 
> for mtb levers, and this is immediately noticeable. Very nice levers).
> Ergon grips, German mirror. 
> Velocity Synergy 650B wheelset from a listmember, LX rear, some kinda 
> Shimano dynohub front, some kinda B&M light from another member (thanks, 
> members!)
> Fatty Rumpkin tires with the lovely (and apparently accidental) red-ish 
> brown sidewalls. Trivia: the blue label on the tires looks nifty on the 
> blue frame. Sweet!
> 17t single cog located with two Gear Clamps, Paul Melvin tensioner.
> Sugini Quickbeam-ish double, 40-26.
> 8-speed chain..don't use 9-speed on this setup, it fits too tight on the 
> single cog.
> MKS Sylvan Touring pedals.
>
> Verdict: It's fantastic! Of course this is an extremely limited first 
> impression, but it feels light and nimble like other Riv road-ish bikes 
> I've owned. My snap judgment is more Hilsen than Appaloosa, but that could 
> be my brain biasing towards looking at road brakes whole I'm pedaling..who 
> knows??
>
> My first impression of the 2-speed arrangement is that it's a singlespeed 
> and I'll probably never bother to stop and "shift". I purposely went this 
> direction because I've gotten maddenly out of shape the last couple years 
> and riding ebikes only exaserbated the problem, so I intend to grind out 
> the big gear as much as possible. But it's nice to know the granny is there 
> if I really need it. Fortunately I've just moved from the monster hill I 
> was living on, or I wouldn't have even attempted this. 
>
> The plan right now - especially since I also just bought Patrick the 
> Deacon's Haul-a-Day - is to keep this on the minimalist end with no racks. 
> I have some shorty wood fenders coming which is probably pushing the 
> minimalist thing too far for a lugged steel bike with full eyelets, but I 
> saw that setup once on a Specialized Langster fixie and for some reason I 
> like the look. 
> Get a Cheviot!  
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/879LccVHzlW0mRsG3
>
> Here's the Haul-a-Day, also not great shots. 
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/HIZdXsNfDPnnGDdb2
>
> Joe Bernard
> Novato CA. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] wtb Clem L or H Mustard 59cm

[adam leibow]

Kinda a longshot but I am interested in a Clem in either the L or H variety 
in 59cm and mustard color. Please let me know if you have frame or complete 
and how much you'd want. 

Thanks!

Adam

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