[RBW] Re: Quickbeam frame in Sacramento for sale

[Stephen Durfee]

That one was listed in SF Bay Area a year or so ago...I'm sure I connected 
with the seller at one point, but then it fell of the radar...

On Monday, November 18, 2024 at 7:06:12 PM UTC-8 Oliver Moss wrote:

> What a great color
>
> On Monday, November 18, 2024 at 8:59:57 PM UTC-5 Lucky wrote:
>
>> Not mine! As seen on Marketplace. Seller, are you here? Wish I could. 
>> Liz in Sacramento 
>>
>> [image: 467544256_473078981940710_6132989531263278842_n.jpg]
>>
>> Rivendell Bicycle Works Quickbeam Frame Set 
>> 
>> facebook.com 
>> 
>>
>> 
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Scams: A Reminder for all members

[Garth]

I'm relieved to say that both Mitch and Joey have further reached out to me 
and they both appear as genuinely interested parties. There's may reasons 
why someone may not have been a member here and yet wish to buy something, 
namely privacy and/or disinterest in group interacting. I sure get that ! 

-Garth 

On Monday, November 18, 2024 at 3:22:58 PM UTC-5 Garth wrote:

> I have my Susie frame up for sale and received this email from a "new" 
> member(15 hours ago as this is written). Of course I looked up the name and 
> that is what I found, and zero posts, as new members are moderated anyways. 
> No, I didn't reply and though I'm the seller, I'm not about to find out all 
> the ways a potential scammer may try in order to get the frame for free. I 
> requested Paypal f&f as payment. I am aware of how a scammer can pay with a 
> mobile app, then before the frame arrives claim it didn't get there(and it 
> did) and ask for a voluntary refund from me. I would never go for that as 
> that's just stupid as that's what tracking and insurance is for until the 
> delivery is complete. Regardless though, it's all too much drama for me as 
> I'd like the frame go to a genuine contributing list member if possible. In 
> my forty-some years of shipping things, many things, I've never once had a 
> package get lost. 
>
> So this may even be legit, but I can't and won't take that chance.  I 
> looked up the name with and without the gallery, plus the phone number, and 
> nothing comes up but a pinterest and X front page with no content. All red 
> flags.
>
> --
>
> *mitch bautz  *
> *8:19 AM (6 hours ago)*
>
> *Hey! Im not sure if my messages are posting in google groups, so i 
> figured i would reach out directly to the email from your post, Ill buy 
> your frame, just let me know how you want the payment and we'll get it all 
> sorted out ! Thanks *
>
>
> *Mitch Bautz*
> *8156855353 <(815)%20685-5353>*
>
> 
>
>
> I just checked my mail and got another one. Sheesh, silly season is in 
> full order ! Joined 1 hour ago. 
>
>
> --
>
> *Joseph Lande  *
> *2:39 PM (38 minutes ago)*
>
>
>
> *to me *
> *Hi Garth,*
> *I saw your frame for sale on the Riv owners bunch Google group….I’m 
> interested! Been looking out for one of the Susie frames.*
> *I need to double check my sizing but I’m pretty sure I’m a 59cm. *
> *Anyways, just checking in to see if it’s still available. Happy t do 
> paypal friends and fam.*
> *Best,*
> *Joey*
> *510 414 8734 <(510)%20414-8734>*
>
>
>
> On Friday, November 15, 2024 at 12:33:22 PM UTC-5 Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
>
>> Thanks for that suggestion Matthew. 
>>
>> That might be a little beyond the scope of what we can handle here. Under 
>> the best of circumstances, follow through on those types of things are 
>> notoriously uneven. 
>> (And honestly, those types of things have a way of magnifying petty 
>> disputes which I don't want to have to moderate...)
>>
>> One of the upsides of using GoogleGroups is that the "Search" functions 
>> are pretty pervasive. Someone who has listed items will show up easily. 
>>
>> And back to my earlier comments here and in other threads - _NOT_ showing 
>> up in any searches is a huge red flag.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 12, 2024 at 4:24:38 PM UTC-8 Matthew Williams wrote:
>>
>>> Maybe we should have a thread with “Trusted Buyers & Sellers of RBWOG”? 
>>>
>>> Buyers and sellers could vouch for each other, link to the sale, and 
>>> describe the transaction, sort of like eBay’s Feedback system. 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] 135mm rear hub

[Garth]

If you are so mechanically inclined to swap threaded axles you caould 
always buy a silver 130mm bub like the RS400(Tiagra road) and swap out a 
longer axle and add the spacer needed . 



On Tuesday, November 19, 2024 at 6:55:01 AM UTC-5 okeeffe...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hi, 
> Thanks for the advice and recommendations. I compiled a (very short) list 
> of hubs that meet most of the requirements.
>
> *Hubs*
> The criteria are:
>
>- 135mm ✅ 
>- QR ✅ 
>- No disc brake mounts ✅ 
>- 36 holes ✅ 
>- 8-11 speed ✅ 
>
>
> *Rivendell*
> Silver
> 150$
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/products/hub-new-silver-rear-hub?variant=41105185931375
>
> *Bitex*
> BX103R
> 160$
> https://www.bitexhubs.com/htm/pd_detail.php?no=BX103R
>
> *Hope*
> RS4
> 250€  
> https://www.hopetech.com/products/hubs/road-gravel-cx/rs4-road-rear/
>
>
>
> *White Industries*T11 or M15
> 400$
> https://www.whiteind.com/product/tll-rear/
>
> There are some borderline models here:
>
> *Suzue *
> Rivendell 7spd
> 170$
>
> https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/rivendell-suzue-7sp-rear-hub-silver-8671?page=5&category=980#attr=5197
>
>
> *FH-UR600 (centrelock)*24€
> https://bike.shimano.com/fr-CH/products/components/pdp.P-FH-UR600.html
>
> and the  Shimano Deore FH-T610 is pretty much unfindable online or in 
> LBSes over here.
>
> Of course as it some suggested, there are stacks of older XTR, XT, and LX 
> models floating around but these require a bit more faff to source.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Cormac
>
>
> On Tuesday, November 5, 2024 at 11:04:38 PM UTC+1 drew.jo...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Bitex makes a decent “touring” 135 rear as well…
>>
>> [image: DSC06187.jpg]
>>
>> Bitex Touring Hubs 
>> analogcycles.com 
>> 
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Nov 5, 2024, at 10:19 AM, Jakob  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> I'm not quite sure I understand what you're looking for exactly.
>>
>> At least here in Germany you can get 135mm QR rear hubs easily. Many of 
>> them from Shimano. Ones with 36 holes are a little harder than 32 holes, 
>> but still pretty available.
>> Where it gets interesting is if you don't want it in black, or if you 
>> don't want to have a visible disc rotor mount. (I compromised about the 
>> latter for my Clem wheelset. It's always good to have components that you 
>> can use on different bikes anyway...)
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Jakob 
>>
>>
>> On Saturday 2 November 2024 at 21:19:57 UTC+1 iamkeith wrote:
>>
>>> Suzue appears to make an axle cap to convert their 130mm hubs to 135.  
>>> Merry Sales / SOMA has them in the US, if you can't find them in Europe.  
>>> (I guess it's possible that they had them made as an exclusive.)  Until I 
>>> read your question and started looking, I honestly had no idea this had 
>>> become so hard to find.  I think the bike industry is irrevocably broken.  
>>> Thank goodness for Rivendell and VO.
>>>
>>> Assuming you have the option, I'd suggest visiting bike co-ops, 
>>> want-ads, re-sellers, pawn shops, etc, and check out old mountain bikes 
>>> from the late 80s through early 00s.  There are millions of usable hub sets 
>>> out there, that can be had for a song.  (At least here in the States.)  
>>>  Some of them being extremely high end, quality pieces.  Even if you have 
>>> to cut them out of some old wheels, they could still be a bargain.
>>>
>>> On Saturday, November 2, 2024 at 9:38:14 AM UTC-6 Will Boericke wrote:
>>>
 I think a 35h hub is going to be hard to find :).  36h and 135 is rare 
 enough.

 Will near Boston

 On Saturday, November 2, 2024 at 7:34:31 AM UTC-4 Steven Sweedler wrote:

> Also Bitex has a nice large flange touring hub, 36 H silver and black.
>
> Steven Sweedler
> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>
>
> On Sat, Nov 2, 2024 at 5:25 AM Cormac O'Keeffe  
> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> I know that Rivendell, White Industries and Velo Orange all sell 
>> 135mm rear hubs, but does anyone know of some places (ideally Europe) 
>> that 
>> sell 135mm 35H rear hubs? 
>> Cheers,
>> C
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
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[RBW] FS: 57cm canti Rivendell Romulus

[Igor]

I really don't want to sell it, but.. bought the frame on a whim, wanted a 
project..but now I'm back to "I have bikes similar enough" so this is a N+1

57cm, 56.5 top tube.Ultegra headset
Nitto S65 seatpost
Brooks Swallow saddle
Dia Compe 980 brakes
Nissen housing (purple)
Nitto Technomic Delux stem (90mm)
Nitto Noodle bars (44cm) - need to be wrapped
Dura Ace 7402 aero brake levers
Shimano bar end pods with Dia compe levers (friction)
Shimano 105 170mm crankset 
XTR rapid rear derailleur
Suntour front derailleur
Grand Bois hubs to Grand Bois rims, 38mm Terreno Dry 38mm tires

Mix of NOS, old/new on this bike. I'd prefer to keep the wheelset...but 
listed it here nonetheless.

$1500 without wheels
$2000 with

Shipping a bit extra. Pickup in Ann Arbor, MI, preferred..but can ship of 
course.

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[RBW] Re: Dynamo Wire Aesthetics

[Michael Baquerizo]

I just wired a clem (dark greenish? bronzey? not sure the official color)

because it's so dark, the black B&M wire hardly shows as it twirls up the 
fork leg. it goes under the basket to the left side where the front light 
is. 

the rear light follows the cabling to the rear brake, all the way to the 
noodle, where it parts right around the area the rear rack starts. i used 
'clear' zip ties all along the way. 

the rack has a kids seat attached to it so it serves as a good place to 
hide the rack under, at which point it exits to feed into the rear light. 

on my red hillborne it's a lot more apparent it exists, but i use color 
matched zip ties where i can. on this bike, with all its accoutrements, i 
hardly notice it's there. 



On Tuesday, November 19, 2024 at 1:06:29 PM UTC-5 Jkarlin wrote:

> Thanks, everyone! These are some awesome ideas. I'm also wondering if a 
> few strips of strategically wrapped newbaums might be a fun way to address 
> this. The author of last week's newsletter (Will?) mentioned he just bought 
> a Clem and is going to add a rear dynamo. Maybe I'll ask him as well. I'll 
> include some pictures, maybe just of the finished project, as soon as I get 
> a chance to work on it. 
>
> On Thursday, November 14, 2024 at 5:22:21 PM UTC-7 gogou...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> You know those plastic tubes that 90’s MTB would run the rear brake cable 
>> through along the top tube? I used one of them and a couple or 3 tiny zip 
>> ties to follow the brake cable, it kinda disappears that way. Plus it is on 
>> the non drive side for pictures! 
>>
>> On Thursday, November 14, 2024 at 7:19:07 PM UTC-5 ian m wrote:
>>
>>> My dynamo lighting "hack" has been to fully heat shrink wrap the chintzy 
>>> looking wire, it ends up looking more like cable housing which isn't so 
>>> jarring to look at on the frame, and I've found is easier to route around 
>>> rack parts
>>>
>>> On Thursday, November 14, 2024 at 1:05:19 PM UTC-5 Jkarlin wrote:
>>>
 After putting together my first dynamo system (front and rear lights on 
 a Clem L), and focusing solely on getting it to function, I took a step 
 back and the rear wire wasn't exactly appealing to look at. Getting the 
 wire to hug the frame and then the rear rack (Nitto 32R) nicely wasn't 
 immediately intuitive to me. Do y'all have any thought or tips?
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Rosco Club

[Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY]

All I know is that lower crossbars are great for picking up your bike, thus 
the liftatube moniker. It also provides extra triangulation for the bottom 
bracket, which is nice for those of us with a history of killing bottom 
brackets. But significant?, I’d say no.
Get a Rosco.
-Kai
On Monday, November 18, 2024 at 5:10:34 PM UTC-5 Karl Gee wrote:

> What do folks know about the Rosco Bubbe Road Mixte version without the 
> lower crossbar. 
> Was there a standard build with 700c wheels, and 
> Is the missing crossbar significant in gravel/trail riding? 
>
> Thanks
>
> On Sunday, February 11, 2024 at 11:14:17 AM UTC-8 cjus...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> As part of the Minneapolis cycling community, the Bridgestone and 
>> Rivendell ethos is embedded deeply in our roots.  As such, while I always 
>> appreciated and had an eye on Rivendell these past decades, I admittedly 
>> was never drawn in enough to own one.  That changed for me with the early 
>> Rosco bikes at Rivendell.  The unique and purposeful designs targeted at a 
>> specific size rider really resonated with me.  I was ready to refresh my 
>> city bikes after a decade rolling on the original Masi (no, not the real 
>> Masi) Soulville IGH coffee cruisers I had dialed for me needs and the early 
>> Rosco bikes that were available were just perfect for my needs.
>>
>> The bit longer chainstays of these small batch models and the direction 
>> Rivendell was headed did not bother me for the use of these bikes.  I may 
>> have strong opinions about chainstay length and where long stays do not 
>> work for me, but that is reserved for mountain biking and tight 
>> singletrack.  For city bikes, I have owned a Big Dummy for well over a 
>> decade and not sure you can find longer effective stays than that.  By 
>> compare, these Rivs are still snappy (and shorter than current models) but 
>> give you a little of that flying couch feel a Dummy provides.
>>
>> All this just to say I am a big fan of what the Rosco programs represent 
>> and even how they have evolved.   From very small batch and completely 
>> unique designs, to more recently allowing for more affordable and a bit 
>> larger batch versions of existing bikes like the Rosco Platy, they are all 
>> fun and interesting bikes.
>>
>> *So...share your Rosco!  *
>>
>> This is my 2nd Rosco and my first completed enough to have a couple 
>> season under it's belt and it's build getting closer to being dialed and 
>> complete (3x will swap for a 2x as not needed for city ride but needed some 
>> time testing a triple for other purposes etc.):
>>
>> *Rosco Bubbe ROAD-FATTY 55.5cm*
>>
>> SIZE: 55.5cm*
>> It's a "road" because it's easily drop-bar compatible--the top tube is 
>> shorter than we'd do if you were going to put a BOSCO or CHOCO on it. 
>> Albatross, OK. But if you have never had a drop bar bike and you're 
>> curious, or if you shun all non-drop bar bikes, this is a great way to 
>> spoil yourself, because it rides as well as any drop bar bike can ride. 
>> It's totally delightful, serious.
>>
>> *Please note the 55.5cm Rosco Bubbe Road geo differs in many ways from 
>> the the Waterford 55.5 Rosco Bubbe*
>>
>> BEST PBH range 
>> : 
>> 84-87.5cm
>> SADDLE HEIGHT RANGE: 73 - 76.5cm
>> MINIMAL TIRE: 700x28, but holy smokes—bring it up to a 700x33 Jack Brown 
>> (or even 700x40 as seen in photos) and max out at 700x42.
>> STANDOVER NOTE: The 83 cm shown with 700x39 (Conti SpeedRides, say 
>> 700x42, measure between 700x38-41 depending on the rim).
>> REAR SPACING: 135MM
>>
>>- Only 10 available. (Originally) 
>>- Made in the Taiwan 
>>- Color: green 
>>
>> [image: f-rosco-R555-3.jpeg][image: DSCF1261.JPG]
>>
>> Freshly fit with fenders and custom Clockwork front and rear racks...
>>
>> -Justus
>> Mpls, MN
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] FS Orange Susie Longbolts, 59cm NIB(new in box), Plus some parts for it.

[Garth]

The frame has been sold to a very happy buyer ! 

I'll update this listing about the parts in a few days. Both the seatpost 
and the stem have potential buyers but nothing final. For the time being 
though my focus is on getting the frame labelled and off to UPS for 
delivery. 

On Sunday, November 17, 2024 at 8:15:57 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Garth, I am SO happy this is a 59. If it were smaller I’d be scrounging 
> for money to make the drive down from Toledo to pick up this treasure, for 
> no good reason. :)
> Good luck with the sale - but you should keep it.:)
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 16, 2024, at 2:27 PM, Garth  wrote:
>
> 
>
>   Howdy every-body,  After much consideration I've decided to sell the 
> 59cm Susie frame I purchased from the original 2020 batch. It's a medium 
> orange, I call it burnt orange. It's fillet brazed and comes with the 
> standard FSA headset installed. It's in it's original protective wrapping, 
> so the buyer will be the first to actually lay eyes on the bare frame. For 
> that reason I didn't take it out of the box to take any photos, only some 
> shots inside and of the shipping box. It measures 53" L x35" H x 11" W and 
> weighs some 26 pounds as it's one of those doubly reinforced boxes. I've 
> taken to secure the frame inside better than it was shipped to me from Riv. 
>
> $1650 plus shipping and insurance cost with likely Bikeflights. I also can 
> arrange a local pickup from my home near Steubenville, OH 43952 at a time 
> good for us both.
>
> I have a few parts I bought for it that you are welcome to buy and include 
> in the box. No photos yet, but they are all in original packing save the 
> Dia-Compe Pulley.
>
> -Nitto S83 silver 26.8 post. $100 I can't recall length yet. 
> -Shimano DXR silver v-brakes $55
> --Dia-Compe seat bolt mounted cable pulley guide, if you use cantilevers. 
> Using it you won't have the odd cable bend. $15
> -Original Tosco bar, silver 60cm 25.4. $60 (I'm not sure if this will fit 
> with proper protection for both frame and bar). I'd have to do some 
> research on that for the best way. 
> -Nitto 135mm 4 bolt face plater 10d rise quill stem, fillet brazed silver. 
> This is the original version Riv had made, very smooth and sleek fillet 
> brazing. -$120 
>
> The parts are listed for a buyer of the frame. If I decide to sell them to 
> the general list members, I'll make a addendum to this listing, or make 
> another post. Contact me offlist. 
>
> Paypal friends and family please. 
>
> Thank you for reading, my name is Garth ! 
>
>
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>  
> 
> .
> [image: susie-sale-03-.jpg][image: susie-sale-02.jpg][image: 
> susie-sale-01.jpg][image: susie-sale-04.jpg]
>
>

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Re: [RBW] OGK grips: lessons learned - a follow-up question

[Will Boericke]

WD40 is my go to.  But all the other methods work as well.  Standard 
procedure.


On Tuesday, November 19, 2024 at 12:02:40 PM UTC-5 thomasl...@comcast.net 
wrote:

>   Hi, all!
>
> Thanks for the stories and suggestions.
>
> I've decided to pursue a syringe idea. Believe me, if I can get any 
> alcohol under the grip at all, I will not skimp. I'm always surprised by 
> how cheap and available isopropyl alcohol is, even in small quantities. 
> Except for a few months in early 2020...
>
> It's a shame I don't have ready access to deliverable compressed-enough 
> air. Using it for this sounds like it would be fun.
>
> Anyway, I'll report on my success. If it's not too embarrassing, I may 
> even report on my failure.
>
> Interestingly, last night I located some leather bar tape in my 
> "accessories inventory" (i.e. stuff I bought speculatively over the decades 
> and have not thrown away). Once I remove these OGK grips, I may not replace 
> them with my unsullied pair. I may instead wrap some leather tape to form 
> grips for this particular bar. An opportunity to play with twine!
>
> Since I currently have four other bar configurations in the queue (a 
> second Tosco, a second regular Bosco, an Albatross, and an Albastache), I'm 
> sure there will be an "opportunity" to use any effective 
> evaporatively-installed grip removal ability I develop.
>
> Now that I think of it, I don't know of any grips that want to be 
> installed this way that are designed for 23.8mm bars. I've never looked for 
> them. Surely I'm not expected to muscle a regular ol' ESI Chunky onto the 
> Albastache? That seems like it would be pretty hard. Hmm
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean
> who is indeed contemplating provisioning and deploying a 
> compressed-enough-air approach, should the syringe-approach not suffice
>
> On Monday, November 18, 2024 at 7:45:08 PM UTC-6 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> With in the descriptive text of the OGK handlebar grips on RBW's website, 
>> it mentions the manner in how to mount them onto your handlebars:
>>
>> " Mounting: Lube bar with hairspray or alcohol-based hand cleaner like 
>> Purel. Put a bit inside the grip, too. Slide on fast before it seizes up. 
>> See the ESI video below"
>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/ogk-grip?_pos=1&_sid=30394fa3a&_ss=r
>>
>> Kim Hetzel. 
>>
>> On Monday, November 18, 2024 at 4:42:39 PM UTC-8 Brian Turner wrote:
>>
>>> Medical syringes work well too. I inject iso alcohol into the grips in a 
>>> couple of places to get the alcohol between the bars and grips. After a 
>>> couple of squirts, the grips just wiggle loose.
>>> [image: image0.jpeg]
>>>
>>> Brian
>>> Lex KY
>>>
>>> On Nov 18, 2024, at 7:37 PM, Johnny Alien  wrote:
>>>
>>> I have an alcohol sprayer that allows you to use a nozzle pipe like 
>>> what WD-40 has with it (as mentioned above). That has always worked best 
>>> for me
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, November 18, 2024 at 5:38:57 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
 I’ve used a long and narrow flathead screwdriver to pry up grips enough 
 to spritz something into the gap to free them up for removal; I’m careful 
 and I don’t scratch the bar. I daresay a longish steel awl of sufficient 
 thickness — I have in my mind’s wee eye the one in my tool caddy — ought 
 to 
 work as well or even better.

 I’ve dribbled rubbing alcohol into the grip from the bottle by tilting 
 the bike to the side; even better, I’ve squirted WD40 into the gap with 
 the 
 little nozzle pipe — I’ve done this many to remove grips and, IME, the 
 stuff doesn’t leave behind enough lubricant to keep the grip from seating 
 when you install it again (but using alcohol to install it).

 At any rate, I’ve done all this many times and it all seems to work.

 On Mon, Nov 18, 2024 at 1:58 PM 'thomasl...@comcast.net' via RBW 
 Owners Bunch  wrote:

> Hi, all.
>
> First, I really like the OGK grips as an idea. And I probably will 
> like them in practice. This is not about avoiding them in anway.
>
> I put a pair of the "ergo" (i.e. finger-grooved) OGK grips (Genuine 
> Japanese Grips (pair) – Rivendell Bicycle Works 
> ) 
> on a Boscomoose bar. In the process, I rendered the grips... shall we 
> say.. 
> unappealing. I used a red bandana to try to muscle the grip into place, 
> not 
> having used enough acohol initially. The bandana of course, perhaps under 
> the influence of alcohol, transferred a vague pinkishness from its red to 
> the grip itself. This grip no longer has the clean look for which I was 
> hoping. Lesson learned: (1) use more alcohol (2) to the extent one 
> remains 
> needed, use a *white* towel.
>
> Question: Now of course I'd like to remove the pink-ish things. I'd 
> rather not destroy them, as a matter of principle more than for my 
>>

Re: [RBW] Re: NMSW

[Teague Scott]

Digging this thread up...

About to get into building some wheels for my new-to-me Susie. I'm getting 
some Cliffhangers, leaning towards NMSW, and am contemplating silver (ano?) 
vs. polished. I didn't see any mention of a difference between these two 
finish types in the thread so far. I guess polished is pretty much the 
anodized version w/ anodization removed along the brake track. But does the 
process of polishing create a brake track surface more impervious to 
roughage by wet n dusty conditions? If so, maybe it's only a temporary 
imperviousness.

Wondering whether anyone out there has experience with the NMSW polished 
version.

On Monday, August 21, 2023 at 5:46:01 PM UTC-6 ttoshi wrote:

> I too have NMSW--mine are A23 velocity rims.  The kool stop oranges 
> squeal, and I have lightly sanded the brake pads when they got glassy and 
> it stops squealing for a few hundred miles.  I'm gonna try some kool-stop 
> black pads with them based upon the discussion and see if it gets rid of 
> the squeals.  Apparently I have not worn down my rims enough yet...
>
> Toshi
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Dynamo Wire Aesthetics

[Jkarlin]

Thanks, everyone! These are some awesome ideas. I'm also wondering if a few 
strips of strategically wrapped newbaums might be a fun way to address 
this. The author of last week's newsletter (Will?) mentioned he just bought 
a Clem and is going to add a rear dynamo. Maybe I'll ask him as well. I'll 
include some pictures, maybe just of the finished project, as soon as I get 
a chance to work on it. 

On Thursday, November 14, 2024 at 5:22:21 PM UTC-7 gogou...@gmail.com wrote:

> You know those plastic tubes that 90’s MTB would run the rear brake cable 
> through along the top tube? I used one of them and a couple or 3 tiny zip 
> ties to follow the brake cable, it kinda disappears that way. Plus it is on 
> the non drive side for pictures! 
>
> On Thursday, November 14, 2024 at 7:19:07 PM UTC-5 ian m wrote:
>
>> My dynamo lighting "hack" has been to fully heat shrink wrap the chintzy 
>> looking wire, it ends up looking more like cable housing which isn't so 
>> jarring to look at on the frame, and I've found is easier to route around 
>> rack parts
>>
>> On Thursday, November 14, 2024 at 1:05:19 PM UTC-5 Jkarlin wrote:
>>
>>> After putting together my first dynamo system (front and rear lights on 
>>> a Clem L), and focusing solely on getting it to function, I took a step 
>>> back and the rear wire wasn't exactly appealing to look at. Getting the 
>>> wire to hug the frame and then the rear rack (Nitto 32R) nicely wasn't 
>>> immediately intuitive to me. Do y'all have any thought or tips?
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Dynamo Wire Aesthetics

[Collin A]

I was just about to bring those up Jeremy! They perfectly fit the son 
coaxial cables and the adhesive is quite strong, just make sure to clean 
and dry the area before application.

Collin in DejaVoakland

On Tuesday, November 19, 2024 at 11:04:18 AM UTC-8 Jeremy Till wrote:

> A couple of years ago a list member (Collin A?) brought these to my 
> attention: 
>
>
> https://www.performancebike.com/shimano-sd50-etube-di2-wire-cover-white-ismewc2w/p333253?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_id=17393956213&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAi_G5BhDXARIsAN5SX7oXbYoYz_LGctG_BbfQInEVnLLMFkosjKedRIf8byU7TGFQ2dcQGTEaAnb7EALw_wcB
>
> They're self-adhesive wire guides that Shimano sells for routing Di2 
> electronic shifting wires on bikes that don't have internal routing for 
> them. I recently used a set to route the wire for my taillight along the 
> underside of my top tube, next to the brake cable, on my Surly Long Haul 
> Trucker. I got the black ones and since the LHT frame is black, I'm happy 
> with how they pretty much disappear. They may be more conspicuous depending 
> on the color of your frame, but even if they're noticeable I do think they 
> help things look neat and tidy. 
>
> -Jeremy Till
> Sacramento, CA
>
> On Tuesday, November 19, 2024 at 10:06:29 AM UTC-8 Jkarlin wrote:
>
>> Thanks, everyone! These are some awesome ideas. I'm also wondering if a 
>> few strips of strategically wrapped newbaums might be a fun way to address 
>> this. The author of last week's newsletter (Will?) mentioned he just bought 
>> a Clem and is going to add a rear dynamo. Maybe I'll ask him as well. I'll 
>> include some pictures, maybe just of the finished project, as soon as I get 
>> a chance to work on it. 
>>
>> On Thursday, November 14, 2024 at 5:22:21 PM UTC-7 gogou...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> You know those plastic tubes that 90’s MTB would run the rear brake 
>>> cable through along the top tube? I used one of them and a couple or 3 tiny 
>>> zip ties to follow the brake cable, it kinda disappears that way. Plus it 
>>> is on the non drive side for pictures! 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, November 14, 2024 at 7:19:07 PM UTC-5 ian m wrote:
>>>
 My dynamo lighting "hack" has been to fully heat shrink wrap the 
 chintzy looking wire, it ends up looking more like cable housing which 
 isn't so jarring to look at on the frame, and I've found is easier to 
 route 
 around rack parts

 On Thursday, November 14, 2024 at 1:05:19 PM UTC-5 Jkarlin wrote:

> After putting together my first dynamo system (front and rear lights 
> on a Clem L), and focusing solely on getting it to function, I took a 
> step 
> back and the rear wire wasn't exactly appealing to look at. Getting the 
> wire to hug the frame and then the rear rack (Nitto 32R) nicely wasn't 
> immediately intuitive to me. Do y'all have any thought or tips?



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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Rosco Club

[Jason Fuller]

I'm a bit surprised that Riv hasn't incorporated the lift tube into any 
production models outside the Rosco series. Probably due to FD / ST-mounted 
bottle interferences, which is fair, along with some added cost. I kinda 
wish the Clem would adopt the Mountain Mixte frame design with the lift 
tube, seems it would be stiffer and suit the "everything, everyday" ethos 
of that bike. 

On Tuesday, 19 November 2024 at 12:48:52 UTC-8 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
wrote:

>
> All I know is that lower crossbars are great for picking up your bike, 
> thus the liftatube moniker. It also provides extra triangulation for the 
> bottom bracket, which is nice for those of us with a history of killing 
> bottom brackets. But significant?, I’d say no.
> Get a Rosco.
> -Kai
> On Monday, November 18, 2024 at 5:10:34 PM UTC-5 Karl Gee wrote:
>
>> What do folks know about the Rosco Bubbe Road Mixte version without the 
>> lower crossbar. 
>> Was there a standard build with 700c wheels, and 
>> Is the missing crossbar significant in gravel/trail riding? 
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> On Sunday, February 11, 2024 at 11:14:17 AM UTC-8 cjus...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> As part of the Minneapolis cycling community, the Bridgestone and 
>>> Rivendell ethos is embedded deeply in our roots.  As such, while I always 
>>> appreciated and had an eye on Rivendell these past decades, I admittedly 
>>> was never drawn in enough to own one.  That changed for me with the early 
>>> Rosco bikes at Rivendell.  The unique and purposeful designs targeted at a 
>>> specific size rider really resonated with me.  I was ready to refresh my 
>>> city bikes after a decade rolling on the original Masi (no, not the real 
>>> Masi) Soulville IGH coffee cruisers I had dialed for me needs and the early 
>>> Rosco bikes that were available were just perfect for my needs.
>>>
>>> The bit longer chainstays of these small batch models and the direction 
>>> Rivendell was headed did not bother me for the use of these bikes.  I may 
>>> have strong opinions about chainstay length and where long stays do not 
>>> work for me, but that is reserved for mountain biking and tight 
>>> singletrack.  For city bikes, I have owned a Big Dummy for well over a 
>>> decade and not sure you can find longer effective stays than that.  By 
>>> compare, these Rivs are still snappy (and shorter than current models) but 
>>> give you a little of that flying couch feel a Dummy provides.
>>>
>>> All this just to say I am a big fan of what the Rosco programs represent 
>>> and even how they have evolved.   From very small batch and completely 
>>> unique designs, to more recently allowing for more affordable and a bit 
>>> larger batch versions of existing bikes like the Rosco Platy, they are all 
>>> fun and interesting bikes.
>>>
>>> *So...share your Rosco!  *
>>>
>>> This is my 2nd Rosco and my first completed enough to have a couple 
>>> season under it's belt and it's build getting closer to being dialed and 
>>> complete (3x will swap for a 2x as not needed for city ride but needed some 
>>> time testing a triple for other purposes etc.):
>>>
>>> *Rosco Bubbe ROAD-FATTY 55.5cm*
>>>
>>> SIZE: 55.5cm*
>>> It's a "road" because it's easily drop-bar compatible--the top tube is 
>>> shorter than we'd do if you were going to put a BOSCO or CHOCO on it. 
>>> Albatross, OK. But if you have never had a drop bar bike and you're 
>>> curious, or if you shun all non-drop bar bikes, this is a great way to 
>>> spoil yourself, because it rides as well as any drop bar bike can ride. 
>>> It's totally delightful, serious.
>>>
>>> *Please note the 55.5cm Rosco Bubbe Road geo differs in many ways from 
>>> the the Waterford 55.5 Rosco Bubbe*
>>>
>>> BEST PBH range 
>>> : 
>>> 84-87.5cm
>>> SADDLE HEIGHT RANGE: 73 - 76.5cm
>>> MINIMAL TIRE: 700x28, but holy smokes—bring it up to a 700x33 Jack Brown 
>>> (or even 700x40 as seen in photos) and max out at 700x42.
>>> STANDOVER NOTE: The 83 cm shown with 700x39 (Conti SpeedRides, say 
>>> 700x42, measure between 700x38-41 depending on the rim).
>>> REAR SPACING: 135MM
>>>
>>>- Only 10 available. (Originally) 
>>>- Made in the Taiwan 
>>>- Color: green 
>>>
>>> [image: f-rosco-R555-3.jpeg][image: DSCF1261.JPG]
>>>
>>> Freshly fit with fenders and custom Clockwork front and rear racks...
>>>
>>> -Justus
>>> Mpls, MN
>>>
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] New lugged Roadini

[Doug Van Cleve]

Howdy folks.

I’m not really in the market, but to me the lugged Roadini is the bike
Grant would’ve built in the mid 90s if you really could do a bike like that
then. I don’t think he ever really cared about Waterford or whoever
building Rivendell’s, they are just the only ones he could get to do it
back then.  Has there been any suggestion that the lugged version is
replacing the TIG’ed one?  As far as the fancy details go, Grant has done
that since day 1 (although my ‘99 Riv Road Std. is single color burnt
orange).  In regard to RBW pricing approaching lower end US customs, it is
very much apples to oranges.  You know what you’re going to get with the
Rivendell product, but your lower end custom is a bit of a crapshoot and
you may not be happy with it in the end.  Ask me how I know that ;^)

Doug


On Fri, Nov 8, 2024 at 4:40 PM Drew Fitchette 
wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> Just jumped on the Riv site to order a few accessories and saw this on the
> bike model section: Lugged Roadini
> 
>
> I like the look of them!
>
> - Drew
>

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Re: [RBW] Brooks B17 Titanium (gray leather)

[Doug Van Cleve]

Howdy folks.

I too have one of these, it’s been on my Joe Starck Riv most of the time
since I built it in ‘99.  I can’t swear to it, but I think Rivendell was
the first to offer a B.17 with Ti rails and they only came in gray.

To the OP, I would totally use it if I were you…

Doug


On Wed, Oct 23, 2024 at 7:46 PM m f  wrote:

> I was able to purchase an interesting Brooks B17 with Gray leather, copper
> rivets, and titanium rails. I thought I’d install it on my All-Rounder, but
> a Google search result partially explains that this saddle is somewhat rare
> and a Rivendell exclusive (the FB link no longer works. ) Maybe the Google
> result says it all, but does anyone know the story behind this Brooks?

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Re: [RBW] Re: NMSW

[Ed Fausto]

Hi Scott,

I have experience with Non-machined side wall for both polish and 
non-polish (regular) Cliffhanger & Atlas rims from Velocity.
The polish version looks real nice at the start but once it starts to get 
used, the finish acquires some stains from various elements of the road.
Although, I have not tried to polish it with some kind of compound to 
restore its luster.
Since then, all my bto wheels from Rick were all non-polish (regular) 
version.
If there is an anodized version, I would personally go to that route.

Regards,
Edgar

On Wednesday, November 20, 2024 at 6:41:07 AM UTC+8 Teague Scott wrote:

> Digging this thread up...
>
> About to get into building some wheels for my new-to-me Susie. I'm getting 
> some Cliffhangers, leaning towards NMSW, and am contemplating silver (ano?) 
> vs. polished. I didn't see any mention of a difference between these two 
> finish types in the thread so far. I guess polished is pretty much the 
> anodized version w/ anodization removed along the brake track. But does the 
> process of polishing create a brake track surface more impervious to 
> roughage by wet n dusty conditions? If so, maybe it's only a temporary 
> imperviousness.
>
> Wondering whether anyone out there has experience with the NMSW polished 
> version.
>
> On Monday, August 21, 2023 at 5:46:01 PM UTC-6 ttoshi wrote:
>
>> I too have NMSW--mine are A23 velocity rims.  The kool stop oranges 
>> squeal, and I have lightly sanded the brake pads when they got glassy and 
>> it stops squealing for a few hundred miles.  I'm gonna try some kool-stop 
>> black pads with them based upon the discussion and see if it gets rid of 
>> the squeals.  Apparently I have not worn down my rims enough yet...
>>
>> Toshi
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: NMSW

[Teague Scott]

Thanks Ed, Josh

Good to hear about the polished NMSW working out for you. I'm planning on 
following suit.

Did some more googling. *Velocity says*:
"Polished - hand polished to a shiny finish, raw aluminum. Adds $50 to the 
price of a rim or wheel
*Note: Some polished rims may not require machining for rim brake 
compatibility. We machine our anodized rims to provide an 
aesthetically-pleasant product for our customers. Machining removes the 
outer-most layer of anodized material so that the brake pad does not wear 
away at the rim's surface. On our polished rims, the braking surface is 
adequate for a rim brake prior to being machined, and it is our preference 
to leave additional material on the rim to prolong the life of the wheels 
for our customers"

So, there you go. Sounds like Velocity gives a thumbs-up to rim-brakes and 
polished rims. Machining sidewalls on ano rims is done just to make 'em 
prettier.

If you trust robots, Google AI says:
"When comparing an anodized braking surface to a polished one, a polished 
surface generally offers better braking performance due to its smoother, 
more consistent friction surface, while anodizing primarily provides 
corrosion resistance and aesthetic benefits, but can slightly decrease 
braking efficiency by creating a slightly less grippy surface on the brake 
rim. 

   - Drawbacks of anodized braking surfaces:
  - Reduced braking efficiency: The oxide layer created by anodizing 
  can slightly reduce the friction between the brake pad and the rim, 
  potentially impacting braking performance, especially in wet conditions. 
  - Wear rate: While the anodized layer can be durable, it may wear 
  away faster than a polished surface under heavy braking.
   - Drawbacks of polished braking surfaces: 
  - Lower corrosion resistance: Polished surfaces alone may not offer 
  the same level of corrosion protection as an anodized finish."
   
Now to pick some hubs...

- Teague
On Tuesday, November 19, 2024 at 5:41:06 PM UTC-7 Josh C wrote:

> -Teague- I did end up going with the polished NMSW wheels. It just weirded 
> me out that they asked in the first place. I probably wouldn't have even 
> noticed had they not. They don't function any worse or better than any 
> other wheels that I've had. I did experience squealing at first, but I 
> angled the pads in quite a bit, 2x the width of a business card (or folded 
> in half) and it resolved immediately. I've now ordered 3 sets of those 
> wheels in total since starting this thread. I'm a big guy and want 
> bomb-proof wheels with wide internal width for fatties. I couldn't be 
> happier. I've been ordering mine from Peter White Cycles with Son Dynamo up 
> front and White Ind out back. Love everything about them.
>
> On Tuesday, November 19, 2024 at 7:00:24 PM UTC-5 Ed Fausto wrote:
>
>> Hi Scott,
>>
>> I have experience with Non-machined side wall for both polish and 
>> non-polish (regular) Cliffhanger & Atlas rims from Velocity.
>> The polish version looks real nice at the start but once it starts to get 
>> used, the finish acquires some stains from various elements of the road.
>> Although, I have not tried to polish it with some kind of compound to 
>> restore its luster.
>> Since then, all my bto wheels from Rick were all non-polish (regular) 
>> version.
>> If there is an anodized version, I would personally go to that route.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Edgar
>>
>> On Wednesday, November 20, 2024 at 6:41:07 AM UTC+8 Teague Scott wrote:
>>
>>> Digging this thread up...
>>>
>>> About to get into building some wheels for my new-to-me Susie. I'm 
>>> getting some Cliffhangers, leaning towards NMSW, and am contemplating 
>>> silver (ano?) vs. polished. I didn't see any mention of a difference 
>>> between these two finish types in the thread so far. I guess polished is 
>>> pretty much the anodized version w/ anodization removed along the brake 
>>> track. But does the process of polishing create a brake track surface more 
>>> impervious to roughage by wet n dusty conditions? If so, maybe it's only a 
>>> temporary imperviousness.
>>>
>>> Wondering whether anyone out there has experience with the NMSW polished 
>>> version.
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 21, 2023 at 5:46:01 PM UTC-6 ttoshi wrote:
>>>
 I too have NMSW--mine are A23 velocity rims.  The kool stop oranges 
 squeal, and I have lightly sanded the brake pads when they got glassy and 
 it stops squealing for a few hundred miles.  I'm gonna try some kool-stop 
 black pads with them based upon the discussion and see if it gets rid of 
 the squeals.  Apparently I have not worn down my rims enough yet...

 Toshi



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Re: [RBW] Re: NMSW

[Josh C]

For the record...I don't trust what Google AI says...but go for it 

On Tuesday, November 19, 2024 at 7:58:12 PM UTC-5 Teague Scott wrote:

> Thanks Ed, Josh
>
> Good to hear about the polished NMSW working out for you. I'm planning on 
> following suit.
>
> Did some more googling. *Velocity says*:
> "Polished - hand polished to a shiny finish, raw aluminum. Adds $50 to the 
> price of a rim or wheel
> *Note: Some polished rims may not require machining for rim brake 
> compatibility. We machine our anodized rims to provide an 
> aesthetically-pleasant product for our customers. Machining removes the 
> outer-most layer of anodized material so that the brake pad does not wear 
> away at the rim's surface. On our polished rims, the braking surface is 
> adequate for a rim brake prior to being machined, and it is our preference 
> to leave additional material on the rim to prolong the life of the wheels 
> for our customers"
>
> So, there you go. Sounds like Velocity gives a thumbs-up to rim-brakes and 
> polished rims. Machining sidewalls on ano rims is done just to make 'em 
> prettier.
>
> If you trust robots, Google AI says:
> "When comparing an anodized braking surface to a polished one, a polished 
> surface generally offers better braking performance due to its smoother, 
> more consistent friction surface, while anodizing primarily provides 
> corrosion resistance and aesthetic benefits, but can slightly decrease 
> braking efficiency by creating a slightly less grippy surface on the brake 
> rim. 
>
>- Drawbacks of anodized braking surfaces:
>   - Reduced braking efficiency: The oxide layer created by anodizing 
>   can slightly reduce the friction between the brake pad and the rim, 
>   potentially impacting braking performance, especially in wet 
> conditions. 
>   - Wear rate: While the anodized layer can be durable, it may wear 
>   away faster than a polished surface under heavy braking.
>- Drawbacks of polished braking surfaces: 
>   - Lower corrosion resistance: Polished surfaces alone may not offer 
>   the same level of corrosion protection as an anodized finish."
>
> Now to pick some hubs...
>
> - Teague
> On Tuesday, November 19, 2024 at 5:41:06 PM UTC-7 Josh C wrote:
>
>> -Teague- I did end up going with the polished NMSW wheels. It just 
>> weirded me out that they asked in the first place. I probably wouldn't have 
>> even noticed had they not. They don't function any worse or better than any 
>> other wheels that I've had. I did experience squealing at first, but I 
>> angled the pads in quite a bit, 2x the width of a business card (or folded 
>> in half) and it resolved immediately. I've now ordered 3 sets of those 
>> wheels in total since starting this thread. I'm a big guy and want 
>> bomb-proof wheels with wide internal width for fatties. I couldn't be 
>> happier. I've been ordering mine from Peter White Cycles with Son Dynamo up 
>> front and White Ind out back. Love everything about them.
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 19, 2024 at 7:00:24 PM UTC-5 Ed Fausto wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Scott,
>>>
>>> I have experience with Non-machined side wall for both polish and 
>>> non-polish (regular) Cliffhanger & Atlas rims from Velocity.
>>> The polish version looks real nice at the start but once it starts to 
>>> get used, the finish acquires some stains from various elements of the road.
>>> Although, I have not tried to polish it with some kind of compound to 
>>> restore its luster.
>>> Since then, all my bto wheels from Rick were all non-polish (regular) 
>>> version.
>>> If there is an anodized version, I would personally go to that route.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>> Edgar
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, November 20, 2024 at 6:41:07 AM UTC+8 Teague Scott wrote:
>>>
 Digging this thread up...

 About to get into building some wheels for my new-to-me Susie. I'm 
 getting some Cliffhangers, leaning towards NMSW, and am contemplating 
 silver (ano?) vs. polished. I didn't see any mention of a difference 
 between these two finish types in the thread so far. I guess polished is 
 pretty much the anodized version w/ anodization removed along the brake 
 track. But does the process of polishing create a brake track surface more 
 impervious to roughage by wet n dusty conditions? If so, maybe it's only a 
 temporary imperviousness.

 Wondering whether anyone out there has experience with the NMSW 
 polished version.

 On Monday, August 21, 2023 at 5:46:01 PM UTC-6 ttoshi wrote:

> I too have NMSW--mine are A23 velocity rims.  The kool stop oranges 
> squeal, and I have lightly sanded the brake pads when they got glassy and 
> it stops squealing for a few hundred miles.  I'm gonna try some kool-stop 
> black pads with them based upon the discussion and see if it gets rid of 
> the squeals.  Apparently I have not worn down my rims enough yet...
>
> Toshi
>
>

-- 
You received t

Re: [RBW] Re: NMSW

[Teague Scott]

Now don't get me wrong, I'm no big fan of robot truckers either. Google 
search (and big-tech, small-tech, etc.) is pushing the AI pretty hard – 
pops up every time I make a search and I can't find a way to shut it off. 
In this case, Jobst Brandt's name jumped out at me from the "references 
list." I went ahead and picked through the googlebot's sources and found 
some other trustworthy stuff in there.

On Tuesday, November 19, 2024 at 6:57:13 PM UTC-7 Josh C wrote:

> For the record...I don't trust what Google AI says...but go for it 
>
> On Tuesday, November 19, 2024 at 7:58:12 PM UTC-5 Teague Scott wrote:
>
>> Thanks Ed, Josh
>>
>> Good to hear about the polished NMSW working out for you. I'm planning on 
>> following suit.
>>
>> Did some more googling. *Velocity says*:
>> "Polished - hand polished to a shiny finish, raw aluminum. Adds $50 to 
>> the price of a rim or wheel
>> *Note: Some polished rims may not require machining for rim brake 
>> compatibility. We machine our anodized rims to provide an 
>> aesthetically-pleasant product for our customers. Machining removes the 
>> outer-most layer of anodized material so that the brake pad does not wear 
>> away at the rim's surface. On our polished rims, the braking surface is 
>> adequate for a rim brake prior to being machined, and it is our preference 
>> to leave additional material on the rim to prolong the life of the wheels 
>> for our customers"
>>
>> So, there you go. Sounds like Velocity gives a thumbs-up to rim-brakes 
>> and polished rims. Machining sidewalls on ano rims is done just to make 'em 
>> prettier.
>>
>> If you trust robots, Google AI says:
>> "When comparing an anodized braking surface to a polished one, a polished 
>> surface generally offers better braking performance due to its smoother, 
>> more consistent friction surface, while anodizing primarily provides 
>> corrosion resistance and aesthetic benefits, but can slightly decrease 
>> braking efficiency by creating a slightly less grippy surface on the brake 
>> rim. 
>>
>>- Drawbacks of anodized braking surfaces:
>>   - Reduced braking efficiency: The oxide layer created by anodizing 
>>   can slightly reduce the friction between the brake pad and the rim, 
>>   potentially impacting braking performance, especially in wet 
>> conditions. 
>>   - Wear rate: While the anodized layer can be durable, it may wear 
>>   away faster than a polished surface under heavy braking.
>>- Drawbacks of polished braking surfaces: 
>>   - Lower corrosion resistance: Polished surfaces alone may not 
>>   offer the same level of corrosion protection as an anodized finish."
>>
>> Now to pick some hubs...
>>
>> - Teague
>> On Tuesday, November 19, 2024 at 5:41:06 PM UTC-7 Josh C wrote:
>>
>>> -Teague- I did end up going with the polished NMSW wheels. It just 
>>> weirded me out that they asked in the first place. I probably wouldn't have 
>>> even noticed had they not. They don't function any worse or better than any 
>>> other wheels that I've had. I did experience squealing at first, but I 
>>> angled the pads in quite a bit, 2x the width of a business card (or folded 
>>> in half) and it resolved immediately. I've now ordered 3 sets of those 
>>> wheels in total since starting this thread. I'm a big guy and want 
>>> bomb-proof wheels with wide internal width for fatties. I couldn't be 
>>> happier. I've been ordering mine from Peter White Cycles with Son Dynamo up 
>>> front and White Ind out back. Love everything about them.
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, November 19, 2024 at 7:00:24 PM UTC-5 Ed Fausto wrote:
>>>
 Hi Scott,

 I have experience with Non-machined side wall for both polish and 
 non-polish (regular) Cliffhanger & Atlas rims from Velocity.
 The polish version looks real nice at the start but once it starts to 
 get used, the finish acquires some stains from various elements of the 
 road.
 Although, I have not tried to polish it with some kind of compound to 
 restore its luster.
 Since then, all my bto wheels from Rick were all non-polish (regular) 
 version.
 If there is an anodized version, I would personally go to that route.

 Regards,
 Edgar

 On Wednesday, November 20, 2024 at 6:41:07 AM UTC+8 Teague Scott wrote:

> Digging this thread up...
>
> About to get into building some wheels for my new-to-me Susie. I'm 
> getting some Cliffhangers, leaning towards NMSW, and am contemplating 
> silver (ano?) vs. polished. I didn't see any mention of a difference 
> between these two finish types in the thread so far. I guess polished is 
> pretty much the anodized version w/ anodization removed along the brake 
> track. But does the process of polishing create a brake track surface 
> more 
> impervious to roughage by wet n dusty conditions? If so, maybe it's only 
> a 
> temporary imperviousness.
>
> Wondering whether 

Re: [RBW] OGK grips: lessons learned - a follow-up question

['thomasl...@comcast.net' via RBW Owners Bunch]

  Hi, all!

Thanks for the stories and suggestions.

I've decided to pursue a syringe idea. Believe me, if I can get any alcohol 
under the grip at all, I will not skimp. I'm always surprised by how cheap 
and available isopropyl alcohol is, even in small quantities. Except for a 
few months in early 2020...

It's a shame I don't have ready access to deliverable compressed-enough 
air. Using it for this sounds like it would be fun.

Anyway, I'll report on my success. If it's not too embarrassing, I may even 
report on my failure.

Interestingly, last night I located some leather bar tape in my 
"accessories inventory" (i.e. stuff I bought speculatively over the decades 
and have not thrown away). Once I remove these OGK grips, I may not replace 
them with my unsullied pair. I may instead wrap some leather tape to form 
grips for this particular bar. An opportunity to play with twine!

Since I currently have four other bar configurations in the queue (a second 
Tosco, a second regular Bosco, an Albatross, and an Albastache), I'm sure 
there will be an "opportunity" to use any effective evaporatively-installed 
grip removal ability I develop.

Now that I think of it, I don't know of any grips that want to be installed 
this way that are designed for 23.8mm bars. I've never looked for them. 
Surely I'm not expected to muscle a regular ol' ESI Chunky onto the 
Albastache? That seems like it would be pretty hard. Hmm

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean
who is indeed contemplating provisioning and deploying a 
compressed-enough-air approach, should the syringe-approach not suffice

On Monday, November 18, 2024 at 7:45:08 PM UTC-6 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> With in the descriptive text of the OGK handlebar grips on RBW's website, 
> it mentions the manner in how to mount them onto your handlebars:
>
> " Mounting: Lube bar with hairspray or alcohol-based hand cleaner like 
> Purel. Put a bit inside the grip, too. Slide on fast before it seizes up. 
> See the ESI video below"
> https://www.rivbike.com/products/ogk-grip?_pos=1&_sid=30394fa3a&_ss=r
>
> Kim Hetzel. 
>
> On Monday, November 18, 2024 at 4:42:39 PM UTC-8 Brian Turner wrote:
>
>> Medical syringes work well too. I inject iso alcohol into the grips in a 
>> couple of places to get the alcohol between the bars and grips. After a 
>> couple of squirts, the grips just wiggle loose.
>> [image: image0.jpeg]
>>
>> Brian
>> Lex KY
>>
>> On Nov 18, 2024, at 7:37 PM, Johnny Alien  wrote:
>>
>> I have an alcohol sprayer that allows you to use a nozzle pipe like what 
>> WD-40 has with it (as mentioned above). That has always worked best for me
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, November 18, 2024 at 5:38:57 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> I’ve used a long and narrow flathead screwdriver to pry up grips enough 
>>> to spritz something into the gap to free them up for removal; I’m careful 
>>> and I don’t scratch the bar. I daresay a longish steel awl of sufficient 
>>> thickness — I have in my mind’s wee eye the one in my tool caddy — ought to 
>>> work as well or even better.
>>>
>>> I’ve dribbled rubbing alcohol into the grip from the bottle by tilting 
>>> the bike to the side; even better, I’ve squirted WD40 into the gap with the 
>>> little nozzle pipe — I’ve done this many to remove grips and, IME, the 
>>> stuff doesn’t leave behind enough lubricant to keep the grip from seating 
>>> when you install it again (but using alcohol to install it).
>>>
>>> At any rate, I’ve done all this many times and it all seems to work.
>>>
>>> On Mon, Nov 18, 2024 at 1:58 PM 'thomasl...@comcast.net' via RBW Owners 
>>> Bunch  wrote:
>>>
 Hi, all.

 First, I really like the OGK grips as an idea. And I probably will like 
 them in practice. This is not about avoiding them in anway.

 I put a pair of the "ergo" (i.e. finger-grooved) OGK grips (Genuine 
 Japanese Grips (pair) – Rivendell Bicycle Works 
 ) 
 on a Boscomoose bar. In the process, I rendered the grips... shall we 
 say.. 
 unappealing. I used a red bandana to try to muscle the grip into place, 
 not 
 having used enough acohol initially. The bandana of course, perhaps under 
 the influence of alcohol, transferred a vague pinkishness from its red to 
 the grip itself. This grip no longer has the clean look for which I was 
 hoping. Lesson learned: (1) use more alcohol (2) to the extent one remains 
 needed, use a *white* towel.

 Question: Now of course I'd like to remove the pink-ish things. I'd 
 rather not destroy them, as a matter of principle more than for my 
 potential future use.

 I was able to remove a similarly evaporatively-installed ESI Chunky 
 grip with quite a bit of tedium and time and energy. With the Chunky, I 
 was 
 able to feed some alcohol under the grip by using a strong plastic 
 chopstick to pry it up a bit. Even then, I had to do

[RBW] Re: Rivendell's of the UK

[Dan]

Not in the UK, but came here to say I think your bike is stunning. I think 
the Appaloosa with 50mm tyres and fenders is unstoppable!

On Tuesday, 19 November 2024 at 02:56:42 UTC+10:30 charlie...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Is anyone out there??
>
> Thought I'd start a UK Riv thread... I'm curious to know how many are 
> around. I imagine with The Woods bringing them in now they must be 
> multiplying?? It would be great to connect and who knows, maybe one day we 
> can do a meet-up and a ride?
>
> I'll start, I'm up in Stockport and got my Appaloosa at the start of the 
> year. It's such a head turner - I've never had so many comments on a bike 
> before... I took this photo when I first built the bike. It's got a lot 
> more dust and muck on it now as well as a few stickers, new brakes, saddle 
> and derailleurs, lower bars and a front basket. 
>
> [image: DSC09665.JPG]
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] 135mm rear hub

[Cormac O'Keeffe]

Hi, 
Thanks for the advice and recommendations. I compiled a (very short) list 
of hubs that meet most of the requirements.

*Hubs*
The criteria are:

   - 135mm ✅ 
   - QR ✅ 
   - No disc brake mounts ✅ 
   - 36 holes ✅ 
   - 8-11 speed ✅ 


*Rivendell*
Silver
150$
https://www.rivbike.com/products/hub-new-silver-rear-hub?variant=41105185931375

*Bitex*
BX103R
160$
https://www.bitexhubs.com/htm/pd_detail.php?no=BX103R

*Hope*
RS4
250€  
https://www.hopetech.com/products/hubs/road-gravel-cx/rs4-road-rear/



*White Industries*T11 or M15
400$
https://www.whiteind.com/product/tll-rear/

There are some borderline models here:

*Suzue *
Rivendell 7spd
170$
https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/rivendell-suzue-7sp-rear-hub-silver-8671?page=5&category=980#attr=5197


*FH-UR600 (centrelock)*24€
https://bike.shimano.com/fr-CH/products/components/pdp.P-FH-UR600.html

and the  Shimano Deore FH-T610 is pretty much unfindable online or in LBSes 
over here.

Of course as it some suggested, there are stacks of older XTR, XT, and LX 
models floating around but these require a bit more faff to source.

Cheers,

Cormac


On Tuesday, November 5, 2024 at 11:04:38 PM UTC+1 drew.jo...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Bitex makes a decent “touring” 135 rear as well…
>
> [image: DSC06187.jpg]
>
> Bitex Touring Hubs 
> analogcycles.com 
> 
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 5, 2024, at 10:19 AM, Jakob  wrote:
>
> 
>
> I'm not quite sure I understand what you're looking for exactly.
>
> At least here in Germany you can get 135mm QR rear hubs easily. Many of 
> them from Shimano. Ones with 36 holes are a little harder than 32 holes, 
> but still pretty available.
> Where it gets interesting is if you don't want it in black, or if you 
> don't want to have a visible disc rotor mount. (I compromised about the 
> latter for my Clem wheelset. It's always good to have components that you 
> can use on different bikes anyway...)
>
> Cheers,
> Jakob 
>
>
> On Saturday 2 November 2024 at 21:19:57 UTC+1 iamkeith wrote:
>
>> Suzue appears to make an axle cap to convert their 130mm hubs to 135.  
>> Merry Sales / SOMA has them in the US, if you can't find them in Europe.  
>> (I guess it's possible that they had them made as an exclusive.)  Until I 
>> read your question and started looking, I honestly had no idea this had 
>> become so hard to find.  I think the bike industry is irrevocably broken.  
>> Thank goodness for Rivendell and VO.
>>
>> Assuming you have the option, I'd suggest visiting bike co-ops, want-ads, 
>> re-sellers, pawn shops, etc, and check out old mountain bikes from the late 
>> 80s through early 00s.  There are millions of usable hub sets out there, 
>> that can be had for a song.  (At least here in the States.)   Some of them 
>> being extremely high end, quality pieces.  Even if you have to cut them out 
>> of some old wheels, they could still be a bargain.
>>
>> On Saturday, November 2, 2024 at 9:38:14 AM UTC-6 Will Boericke wrote:
>>
>>> I think a 35h hub is going to be hard to find :).  36h and 135 is rare 
>>> enough.
>>>
>>> Will near Boston
>>>
>>> On Saturday, November 2, 2024 at 7:34:31 AM UTC-4 Steven Sweedler wrote:
>>>
 Also Bitex has a nice large flange touring hub, 36 H silver and black.

 Steven Sweedler
 Plymouth, New Hampshire


 On Sat, Nov 2, 2024 at 5:25 AM Cormac O'Keeffe  
 wrote:

> Hi,
> I know that Rivendell, White Industries and Velo Orange all sell 135mm 
> rear hubs, but does anyone know of some places (ideally Europe) that sell 
> 135mm 35H rear hubs? 
> Cheers,
> C
>
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> 
> .
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Re: [RBW] Scams: A Reminder for all members

[Garth]

I deleted the previous message. I'm relieved to say that both Mitch and 
Joey have further reached out to me and they both appear as genuinely 
interested parties. There's may reasons why someone may not have been a 
member here and yet wish to buy something, namely privacy and/or 
disinterest in group interacting. I sure get that ! 

-Garth 

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[RBW] Re: Dynamo Wire Aesthetics

[Jeremy Till]

A couple of years ago a list member (Collin A?) brought these to my 
attention: 

https://www.performancebike.com/shimano-sd50-etube-di2-wire-cover-white-ismewc2w/p333253?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_id=17393956213&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAi_G5BhDXARIsAN5SX7oXbYoYz_LGctG_BbfQInEVnLLMFkosjKedRIf8byU7TGFQ2dcQGTEaAnb7EALw_wcB

They're self-adhesive wire guides that Shimano sells for routing Di2 
electronic shifting wires on bikes that don't have internal routing for 
them. I recently used a set to route the wire for my taillight along the 
underside of my top tube, next to the brake cable, on my Surly Long Haul 
Trucker. I got the black ones and since the LHT frame is black, I'm happy 
with how they pretty much disappear. They may be more conspicuous depending 
on the color of your frame, but even if they're noticeable I do think they 
help things look neat and tidy. 

-Jeremy Till
Sacramento, CA

On Tuesday, November 19, 2024 at 10:06:29 AM UTC-8 Jkarlin wrote:

> Thanks, everyone! These are some awesome ideas. I'm also wondering if a 
> few strips of strategically wrapped newbaums might be a fun way to address 
> this. The author of last week's newsletter (Will?) mentioned he just bought 
> a Clem and is going to add a rear dynamo. Maybe I'll ask him as well. I'll 
> include some pictures, maybe just of the finished project, as soon as I get 
> a chance to work on it. 
>
> On Thursday, November 14, 2024 at 5:22:21 PM UTC-7 gogou...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> You know those plastic tubes that 90’s MTB would run the rear brake cable 
>> through along the top tube? I used one of them and a couple or 3 tiny zip 
>> ties to follow the brake cable, it kinda disappears that way. Plus it is on 
>> the non drive side for pictures! 
>>
>> On Thursday, November 14, 2024 at 7:19:07 PM UTC-5 ian m wrote:
>>
>>> My dynamo lighting "hack" has been to fully heat shrink wrap the chintzy 
>>> looking wire, it ends up looking more like cable housing which isn't so 
>>> jarring to look at on the frame, and I've found is easier to route around 
>>> rack parts
>>>
>>> On Thursday, November 14, 2024 at 1:05:19 PM UTC-5 Jkarlin wrote:
>>>
 After putting together my first dynamo system (front and rear lights on 
 a Clem L), and focusing solely on getting it to function, I took a step 
 back and the rear wire wasn't exactly appealing to look at. Getting the 
 wire to hug the frame and then the rear rack (Nitto 32R) nicely wasn't 
 immediately intuitive to me. Do y'all have any thought or tips?
>>>
>>>

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