Re: [RBW] Re: Suggestions for no-extension or very-short extension clamp-on stems

[Garth]

A quick check on ebay revealed amongst the many options this seller, which 
offers discounts for purchasing more tubes, as low as $12.37 for 4 or more. 
Shipping is included ! 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/323500375662
On Thursday, October 24, 2024 at 9:18:24 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Thanks for warning about plastic. But the wealth of very short stems with 
> rise and the threadless stem raisers ought between them to meet my needs, 
> so I daresay no need for an adjustable stem, thank God.
>
> Schwalbe SV19As: Yes! That’s what I want; thanks.
>
> On Thu, Oct 24, 2024 at 6:27 PM Garth  wrote:
>
>> I forgot the adjustable stem question. I recall seeing a vid or website 
>> about a teardown of the innards of a Ritchey and a  cheapie. The Ritchey 
>> was al metal inside, the teeth that hold the setting. The cheapie was 
>> plastic, ouch, not for riding ! The Ritchey is safe for riding, but 90mm is 
>> the shortest. Depending on how high you angle it upwards though, it may or 
>> may not work. 
>>
>> I think Schwalbe SV19A is the lightweight version for the size you need 
>> and weighs 140g, for what that's worth. 
>>
>> On Thursday, October 24, 2024 at 7:22:32 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks. The geometry link will be useful. I’m familiar with Jim’s stem 
>>> tool. The 595 mm figure for the tt is the effective and not the actual 
>>> length and corresponds to my measurement of the latter
>>>
>>> I’ll install the saddle to the usual measurements wrt the bb (saddle 
>>> nose ~3” behind centerline of bb shell, and I like plenty of leg extension) 
>>> and adjust tilt and then use the saddle nose as the reference point. Fun 
>>> fact: with the inevitable original issue Flite in the right place and using 
>>> the same generic Shimano aero levers I always use, and with bar from ~ 1" 
>>> above to about 1” below saddle nose there should be about 27” between nose 
>>> of saddle to tip of hoods. Amen. I mean, these are always my starting 
>>> measurements.
>>>
>>> The bb will come down about 1/2” with the 60 mm Big Ones compared to the 
>>> 72 mmRangers and I’ll probably put the bar even with saddle which will 
>>> allow for slightly more stem extension. I set up the Monocog with the very 
>>> tall Ranger wheels (about 1” taller than the Big Ones) much as I did my 
>>> Matthews dirt road bike, even with the shallow bb drop on the Monocog; I’m 
>>> fine with that. 
>>>
>>> One perhaps bigger problem will be to restrain my impulse to perfect 
>>> things. This will be a beater and remain a beater, dammit! But I am looking 
>>> forward to a new Frankenstein creation.
>>>
>>> Aside, back to the “light tubes or tubeless?” thread: Friend gave me 
>>> back 2 tubes I’d given him and forgotten about, 622X 2-2.25”. The pair 
>>> rubber-banded together weighs 250 grams, so perhaps these 125 gram tubes 
>>> will work fine. I’d hate to stunt the truly lovely rolling feel of these 
>>> ultra-light, ultra-supple 450 gram Big Ones.
>>>
>>> >>> Does anyone have any more 125 gram 622 X 2-2.25” tubes to sell me? 
>>> <<<
>>>
>>> On Thu, Oct 24, 2024 at 5:04 PM Garth  wrote:
>>>
 When comparing reaches though you must know the seat and head tube 
 angles of each bike in question as that can greatly affect the saddle to 
 bar reach depending on how many degrees difference. Say one bike has a 72d 
 STA and the other 73d. If you were not aware of that and positioned the 
 saddle using the same post @ the same spot on the rails, your reach 
 estimates will be off as one will be further back of the center of the BB, 
 and that would make the effective reach greater than the 73d frame. This 
 is 
 given the same HTA and relative height of the center-heat tube. If those 
 are different also, that's more to calculate. BB heights also drastically 
 change the way you may even want to position yourself in the first place. 
 I 
 know all of this from experience in trying get my custom Franklin road 
 frame and the Bombadil relatively the same in reach and bar height. So far 
 it hasn't worked out as hoped not from miscalculations, but I'm at the 
 limits of what parts are available to get it there(longer and low) and how 
 much I'd have to spend as I can't change the dimensions of the frame !  
 Still, the way they feel in being propelled and handle is inherently so 
 starkly different even if I could get the reach and height relatively the 
 same, the way I pedal and steer them is going to feel inherently 
 different. 
 They're just so differently designed frames. I'm not saying yours are or 
 are not as I have no clue !

 You should have an easier time as your reach issue is from reach being 
 too long and 50-60mm stems with rising angles are plenty. But you must 
 remember that say a 50mm stem with a +35d rise isn't going to rise all 
 that 
 much in usable height. I know you know the link !  
 http://yojimg.net/b

Re: [RBW] Re: First Riv consideration

[Donzaemon]

I've been wondering about weight limit myself. I have an AHH and weigh 
around 160 lb and have thought about doing some light touring with it. I 
wouldn't characterize the tubing as delicate at all and I feel pretty 
confident I can take what I think is an average loadout with it. Almost all 
of my gear is midrange except for maybe my 2p tent which is roughly 2.5 
lbs. 

On Wednesday, October 23, 2024 at 4:19:10 PM UTC-7 ttoshi wrote:

> I am also in the ~150 lb range, and for my A Homer Hilsen, I never felt 
> any flex until I loaded about 20-25 lbs of groceries in the back. The bike 
> felt sprightly with the weight in the back.  I don't know if the 
> spring-like feeling I got riding out of the saddle is planing, but it sure 
> felt good.
>
> I'm guessing that the Charlie is built for ~185 lbs if not more, so I 
> personally would not hesitate to add 20 lbs on a rear rack and another 5-10 
> for the front (for your weight).
>
> Toshi in Oakland
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/bbfd2dd9-3173-476d-ba72-98c7e6efc55an%40googlegroups.com.

[RBW] Re: Suggestions for no-extension or very-short extension clamp-on stems

[Garth]

When comparing reaches though you must know the seat and head tube angles 
of each bike in question as that can greatly affect the saddle to bar reach 
depending on how many degrees difference. Say one bike has a 72d STA and 
the other 73d. If you were not aware of that and positioned the saddle 
using the same post @ the same spot on the rails, your reach estimates will 
be off as one will be further back of the center of the BB, and that would 
make the effective reach greater than the 73d frame. This is given the same 
HTA and relative height of the center-heat tube. If those are different 
also, that's more to calculate. BB heights also drastically change the way 
you may even want to position yourself in the first place. I know all of 
this from experience in trying get my custom Franklin road frame and the 
Bombadil relatively the same in reach and bar height. So far it hasn't 
worked out as hoped not from miscalculations, but I'm at the limits of what 
parts are available to get it there(longer and low) and how much I'd have 
to spend as I can't change the dimensions of the frame !  Still, the way 
they feel in being propelled and handle is inherently so starkly different 
even if I could get the reach and height relatively the same, the way I 
pedal and steer them is going to feel inherently different. They're just so 
differently designed frames. I'm not saying yours are or are not as I have 
no clue !

You should have an easier time as your reach issue is from reach being too 
long and 50-60mm stems with rising angles are plenty. But you must remember 
that say a 50mm stem with a +35d rise isn't going to rise all that much in 
usable height. I know you know the link !  
http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php

Monocogs according to 
https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Redline/Monocog-29er,4403 
had 73d STA and 72d HTA with a TT of 60.3 on a 17" frame. I assume that is 
the medium as other years of that frame called the 17" a medium. (@ sizes 
and geometry look for the green "view geometry" link to the right). 


On Thursday, October 24, 2024 at 6:02:31 PM UTC-4 Elisabeth Sherwood wrote:

> Ritchey has @ $50 stems with 30-degree rises:
>
> https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/stems/comp-4-axis-30d-stem
>
> (Not available, apparently, from Ritchey directly, but someone should have 
> them in the shorter lengths...)
>
> (Note that short-length stems don't actually rise very much, regardless of 
> the angle of the rise!)
>
> Cheers!
>
> Liz
> Washington, DC
>
>
>
> On Thursday, October 24, 2024 at 4:34:21 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> This list ought to know about this question.
>>
>> I hope to install Maes Parallels when I rebuild the Medium 2012 Monocog 
>> and since the effective tt is 59.5 cm* compared to the 56.5 or 57 where I 
>> usually install such a bar I’ll need a stem that is both 25 or 30 mm 
>> shorter than the 80s I use on my road bike and that also gets the bar clamp 
>> at least level with saddle (don’t know needed height above spacers since I 
>> don’t yet have the saddle installed, but this suffices for the general 
>> question).
>>
>> Question: Where can I find threadless stems with 5 cm extensions and a 30 
>> or 35* rise that don’t cost custom prices? a 6 cm ought to work since I 
>> will have the bar level with saddle instead of ~3 cm below.
>>
>> This looks promising at $75 but even that is high for a throwaway beater: 
>> https://analogcycles.com/products/gnomehopper-60mm-stem
>>
>> Second question: Are adjustable stems sturdy enough for long-term use?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> *I  could only find the spec for the 2015 Monocog 29er aluminum but this 
>> fits with my own admittedly slapdash measurements. If anyone can correct 
>> me, please do so.
>>
>> I will have fun with this build. I think of ultralight 60 mm Big Ones and 
>> the long unused S3X with 17 t cog and if I can make it work a cosmetically 
>> marred Dura Ace GA 200 crank with 42 t ring for ~ 72, 54, and 45 inch gears 
>> or perhaps an 18 for 68, 51, 43. Time will tell.
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>> ---
>>
>> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
>> services
>>
>>
>> ---
>>
>> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>>
>> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>>
>> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/f6195333-a653-4a04-8f5e-1d82b672ac3f

Re: [RBW] Re: Style on the bike

[Bill Lindsay]

Another photographic trick is that Patrick Moore's bike has 559mm wheels 
with skinny tires, which also makes the chainring look big.  If you gave me 
a +/- 1-tooth error window, I'd say it's a 50T.  Like a 50x17 or 
thereabouts.  Could be a 51, or a 49.  

BL in EC

On Thursday, October 24, 2024 at 8:12:16 AM UTC-7 Doug H. wrote:

> Patrick that looks like a big ole chainring on the bike behind you. Maybe 
> it's just the angle. 
> Doug
>
> On Thursday, October 24, 2024 at 7:51:28 AM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Good Morning Leah. I just got a pair of OrNot Mission Pants. They are 
>> fantastic. Really nice fabric & features. High quality garment made from 
>> recycled material & made in USA. The latter is not a huge thing for me but 
>> I do appreciate it. I was set to wear them on our ride but changed at the 
>> last second in the parking lot as it was warming up fast. If I were still 
>> working/commuting I would have several pair as I would never need to change 
>> clothes on arrival. OrNot is a very interesting company. I also use their 
>> merino boxers which are the best I’ve found. These have replaced my padded 
>> bike liners.
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 23, 2024, at 10:37 AM, Leah Peterson  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Ted, you have motivated me to finally put some pants in the shopping 
>> cart. I am tired of leggings. They aren’t pants. But if you don’t want 
>> seams biting into you while riding, they make sense. But I’d rather have 
>> more appropriate clothing for when I’m biking to a business and not just 
>> heading to do a workout. I looked online and found 3 different pants on REI 
>> and will hopefully get to try them before the snow falls. Two of them are 
>> REI house brand pants and the other is Topo Designs Dirt pants. The former 
>> are nylon and the latter is cotton.
>>
>> We’ll see.
>>
>> If anyone else has great stylish but functional pant suggestions, I’m 
>> here for them.
>> Leah
>>
>> On Oct 22, 2024, at 11:53 PM, Keith Paugh  wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Ted, 👌.
>>
>> You're a shiny penny out on that bridge... someone's gonna toss you over 
>> the side, you don't watch out.
>>
>> k.
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 22, 2024 at 7:49 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>>> All trikes are darling by their very nature, and 10X so when cornering. 
>>> (Trikes are a bit of a chore to ride in a straight line because you’re 
>>> carrying ~25% more weight and 30% more tire and wheel bearing drag, but 
>>> man, cornering on a trike is something everyone should experience at least 
>>> once in a lifetime! Wonderful! I owned 2.)
>>>
>>> More seriously, Natsuko is certainly stylish - and eminently sensible -- 
>>> in her dress as well as her riding position.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Oct 22, 2024 at 8:43 PM Leah Peterson  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Patrick, this is a style thread! You can only post pictures in which 
 someone is looking darling!

 Leah

 On Oct 22, 2024, at 10:38 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

 
 If you take “style” to include an “effortless" riding position, these 
 are my favorites. De Vlaemink, Jan’s friend Natsuko, and just because it’s 
 a trike and trike’s are always and everywhere stylish, and 10X so when 
 cornering, a trike from 50 years ago

 


 




 

 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the 
 Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
 To unsubscribe from this topic, visit 
 https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/jGhYsxrB7Lg/unsubscribe
 .
 To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to 
 rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
 To view this discussion on the web visit 
 https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CALuTfgsia6hYjXT%3DvE9QaEVE_69om1KV04XC1Yk068o7PoBq8g%40mail.gmail.com
  
 
 .

 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
 Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
 To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
 an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
 To view this discussion on the web visit 
 https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/DB9815DD-37B9-434B-A9B0-B42E02C9DD1C%40gmail.com
  
 
 .

>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>
>>> ---
>>>
>>> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
>>> services
>>>
>>>
>>> --

Re: [RBW] Re: 2024 Appaloosa has arrived. Considering putting it together myself but have never done this.

[Cormac O'Keeffe]

The above advice is great. The only thing I'd add would be to plan a test 
ride before a longer ride or going somewhere where being on time matters. 
There are always lots of minor adjustments to make especially with 
handlebars and seats. 

On Thursday, October 24, 2024 at 2:08:34 AM UTC+2 aaronr...@gmail.com wrote:

> Parts of this video won't match your bike due to part differences but 
> worth a watch and made me comfortable to assemble my own 
>
> https://youtu.be/QbvZJWIm1o0?feature=shared
>
> On Wednesday, October 23, 2024 at 12:33:08 PM UTC-6 Benjamin Kelley wrote:
>
>> Another +1 for doing it yourself.
>> Checkout the Park Tools youtube channel. All of those items will be 
>> covered there.
>> https://www.youtube.com/parktool
>>
>> --ben in KC 
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 23, 2024 at 1:28 PM Edwin W  wrote:
>>
>>> Dan,
>>>
>>> You should DEFINITELY do it yourself... but not to save money! You will 
>>> learn a great deal, but of course "tuition comes in many forms." You will 
>>> pay dearly with long hours, buying new tools, taking forever to do simple 
>>> steps, etc... and at the end you will have your very own bike that you put 
>>> together and all of the fame and fortune that will be showered on to you by 
>>> admiring fans. OK, no fame or fortune, but you will learn a lot for ongoing 
>>> maintenance and if you are all like me, you will walk taller and be proud 
>>> of what you have accomplished!
>>>
>>> Good luck and let us know how it turns out,
>>>
>>> Edwin
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, October 23, 2024 at 1:00:45 PM UTC-5 michaelj...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>

 I’ve been doing all my bike building for 40+ years. I taught myself a 
 fair bit from books, but learned more hanging out in a friend’s bike shop. 
 There’s a lot that’s not intuitive, but we have the advantage of YouTube 
 videos now. A few tips:

 Rule 1: Grease all close fitting or threaded metal-to-metal contact, 
 especially steel to aluminum contact. Pedal threads, seat posts, and 
 handlebar stems are particularly critical points. If you don’t grease 
 these, at some point electrolytic corrosion will make them seize up 
 permanently. Get a tube of bicycle grease or waterproof marine grease.

 A bike stand makes this a LOT easier. I did my first bikes by standing 
 them upside down. I’ve got two bike stands today. 

 Pedals are easy- you need a 15mm wrench, and you should know that the 
 left side pedal has a left-hand thread.

 Handlebar stems: You need a 6mm Allen wrench, aka hex key.
 Brakes and shifters: Generally a 5mm allen wrench

 You’ll need a proper cable cutter and some crimp-on cable ends for the 
 brake and derailleur cables. Don’t try to cut them with ordinary side 
 cutters.

 On Wednesday, October 23, 2024 at 1:37:54 PM UTC-4 Dan wrote:

> So my beautiful Appaloosa has arrived. I am practically foaming at the 
> mouth as I type. As I am sure most of you are aware, Rivendell sends 
> complete bikes mostly built with the exception of the stem, seat tube 
> saddle and pedals. I originally planned on bring my bike to a shop to 
> have 
> them complete the build for me but after some shopping around, the shops 
> will charge a full build fee which averages around $150. That is far too 
> much for such little work in my opinion.
>
> I am no bike mechanic. I have always enjoyed tinkering though so I 
> have half a mind to attempt to put the rest together myself and then 
> bring 
> it to a shop to be tuned, which would cost much less than a "full build". 
>
> Should I go ahead and give it a shot? I have access to the proper 
> tools, I just do not know where to start and obviously do not want to 
> damage anything in the process.
>
 -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/8ca037c9-f689-4c4d-b824-34581d93e8e3n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/2f526862-6ee0-4199-8954-ba4abd8f31e4n%40googlegroups.com.

Re: [RBW] Re: Suggestions for no-extension or very-short extension clamp-on stems

[Peter Adler]

The pricing on that listing is strange: 4x single tubes is $2.50 less that 
a single 4-pack of tubes. I wonder if the seller realizes?

Peter Adler
Berkeley, CA

On Friday, October 25, 2024 at 12:40:27 AM UTC-7 Garth wrote:

> A quick check on ebay revealed amongst the many options this seller, which 
> offers discounts for purchasing more tubes, as low as $12.37 for 4 or more. 
> Shipping is included ! 
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/323500375662
> On Thursday, October 24, 2024 at 9:18:24 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Thanks for warning about plastic. But the wealth of very short stems with 
>> rise and the threadless stem raisers ought between them to meet my needs, 
>> so I daresay no need for an adjustable stem, thank God.
>>
>> Schwalbe SV19As: Yes! That’s what I want; thanks.
>>
>> On Thu, Oct 24, 2024 at 6:27 PM Garth  wrote:
>>
>>> I forgot the adjustable stem question. I recall seeing a vid or website 
>>> about a teardown of the innards of a Ritchey and a  cheapie. The Ritchey 
>>> was al metal inside, the teeth that hold the setting. The cheapie was 
>>> plastic, ouch, not for riding ! The Ritchey is safe for riding, but 90mm is 
>>> the shortest. Depending on how high you angle it upwards though, it may or 
>>> may not work. 
>>>
>>> I think Schwalbe SV19A is the lightweight version for the size you need 
>>> and weighs 140g, for what that's worth. 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, October 24, 2024 at 7:22:32 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
 Thanks. The geometry link will be useful. I’m familiar with Jim’s stem 
 tool. The 595 mm figure for the tt is the effective and not the actual 
 length and corresponds to my measurement of the latter

 I’ll install the saddle to the usual measurements wrt the bb (saddle 
 nose ~3” behind centerline of bb shell, and I like plenty of leg 
 extension) 
 and adjust tilt and then use the saddle nose as the reference point. Fun 
 fact: with the inevitable original issue Flite in the right place and 
 using 
 the same generic Shimano aero levers I always use, and with bar from ~ 1" 
 above to about 1” below saddle nose there should be about 27” between nose 
 of saddle to tip of hoods. Amen. I mean, these are always my starting 
 measurements.

 The bb will come down about 1/2” with the 60 mm Big Ones compared to 
 the 72 mmRangers and I’ll probably put the bar even with saddle which will 
 allow for slightly more stem extension. I set up the Monocog with the very 
 tall Ranger wheels (about 1” taller than the Big Ones) much as I did my 
 Matthews dirt road bike, even with the shallow bb drop on the Monocog; I’m 
 fine with that. 

 One perhaps bigger problem will be to restrain my impulse to perfect 
 things. This will be a beater and remain a beater, dammit! But I am 
 looking 
 forward to a new Frankenstein creation.

 Aside, back to the “light tubes or tubeless?” thread: Friend gave me 
 back 2 tubes I’d given him and forgotten about, 622X 2-2.25”. The pair 
 rubber-banded together weighs 250 grams, so perhaps these 125 gram tubes 
 will work fine. I’d hate to stunt the truly lovely rolling feel of these 
 ultra-light, ultra-supple 450 gram Big Ones.

 >>> Does anyone have any more 125 gram 622 X 2-2.25” tubes to sell me? 
 <<<

 On Thu, Oct 24, 2024 at 5:04 PM Garth  wrote:

> When comparing reaches though you must know the seat and head tube 
> angles of each bike in question as that can greatly affect the saddle to 
> bar reach depending on how many degrees difference. Say one bike has a 
> 72d 
> STA and the other 73d. If you were not aware of that and positioned the 
> saddle using the same post @ the same spot on the rails, your reach 
> estimates will be off as one will be further back of the center of the 
> BB, 
> and that would make the effective reach greater than the 73d frame. This 
> is 
> given the same HTA and relative height of the center-heat tube. If those 
> are different also, that's more to calculate. BB heights also drastically 
> change the way you may even want to position yourself in the first place. 
> I 
> know all of this from experience in trying get my custom Franklin road 
> frame and the Bombadil relatively the same in reach and bar height. So 
> far 
> it hasn't worked out as hoped not from miscalculations, but I'm at the 
> limits of what parts are available to get it there(longer and low) and 
> how 
> much I'd have to spend as I can't change the dimensions of the frame !  
> Still, the way they feel in being propelled and handle is inherently so 
> starkly different even if I could get the reach and height relatively the 
> same, the way I pedal and steer them is going to feel inherently 
> different. 
> They're just so differently designed frames. I'm not saying yours are or 
>

[RBW] Re: WTB: 54 Noodle / Shaka or 52 Nullabar

[ant ritchey]

Thanks to Bones I've got a 54 Noodle coming my way! Still looking for a 52 
Crust Nullabar 26.0 clamp in silver!

On Wednesday, October 23, 2024 at 11:26:33 AM UTC-7 captaincon...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> I have both a silver Noodle and Nullabar in the sizes your looking.
>
> On Tuesday, October 22, 2024 at 11:46:36 AM UTC-5 Bones wrote:
>
>> PM sent.
>>
>> Bones
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 22, 2024 at 11:51:00 AM UTC-4 ant ritchey wrote:
>>
>>> Howdy folks
>>>
>>> Pulling together a road-ish rain-time build and want to give one of 
>>> these a try. Holler if you've got one collecting dust.
>>>
>>> 26.0 clamp preferred.
>>>
>>> -ant ritchey in pdx, or
>>> 97217
>>>
>>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/b88c3ca3-30dc-48b5-8ec7-969ffebc11e5n%40googlegroups.com.

[RBW] 2024 Appaloosa's - Show Us Your Builds!

[Armand Kizirian]

Haven't spotted a build thread for this latest batch, so show us what you 
got! Ana Purple or Sergio Green Appaloosa's only. 

(p.s. May be willing to trade a 55cm Ana Purple Platy for a 54cm Purple 
Appaloosa :)

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/30f6c428-ce0f-443a-a99c-c83e64abffd1n%40googlegroups.com.

Re: [RBW] Re: Suggestions for no-extension or very-short extension clamp-on stems

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks. The geometry link will be useful. I’m familiar with Jim’s stem
tool. The 595 mm figure for the tt is the effective and not the actual
length and corresponds to my measurement of the latter

I’ll install the saddle to the usual measurements wrt the bb (saddle nose
~3” behind centerline of bb shell, and I like plenty of leg extension) and
adjust tilt and then use the saddle nose as the reference point. Fun fact:
with the inevitable original issue Flite in the right place and using the
same generic Shimano aero levers I always use, and with bar from ~ 1" above
to about 1” below saddle nose there should be about 27” between nose of
saddle to tip of hoods. Amen. I mean, these are always my starting
measurements.

The bb will come down about 1/2” with the 60 mm Big Ones compared to the 72
mmRangers and I’ll probably put the bar even with saddle which will allow
for slightly more stem extension. I set up the Monocog with the very tall
Ranger wheels (about 1” taller than the Big Ones) much as I did my Matthews
dirt road bike, even with the shallow bb drop on the Monocog; I’m fine with
that.

One perhaps bigger problem will be to restrain my impulse to perfect
things. This will be a beater and remain a beater, dammit! But I am looking
forward to a new Frankenstein creation.

Aside, back to the “light tubes or tubeless?” thread: Friend gave me back 2
tubes I’d given him and forgotten about, 622X 2-2.25”. The pair
rubber-banded together weighs 250 grams, so perhaps these 125 gram tubes
will work fine. I’d hate to stunt the truly lovely rolling feel of these
ultra-light, ultra-supple 450 gram Big Ones.

>>> Does anyone have any more 125 gram 622 X 2-2.25” tubes to sell me? <<<

On Thu, Oct 24, 2024 at 5:04 PM Garth  wrote:

> When comparing reaches though you must know the seat and head tube angles
> of each bike in question as that can greatly affect the saddle to bar reach
> depending on how many degrees difference. Say one bike has a 72d STA and
> the other 73d. If you were not aware of that and positioned the saddle
> using the same post @ the same spot on the rails, your reach estimates will
> be off as one will be further back of the center of the BB, and that would
> make the effective reach greater than the 73d frame. This is given the same
> HTA and relative height of the center-heat tube. If those are different
> also, that's more to calculate. BB heights also drastically change the way
> you may even want to position yourself in the first place. I know all of
> this from experience in trying get my custom Franklin road frame and the
> Bombadil relatively the same in reach and bar height. So far it hasn't
> worked out as hoped not from miscalculations, but I'm at the limits of what
> parts are available to get it there(longer and low) and how much I'd have
> to spend as I can't change the dimensions of the frame !  Still, the way
> they feel in being propelled and handle is inherently so starkly different
> even if I could get the reach and height relatively the same, the way I
> pedal and steer them is going to feel inherently different. They're just so
> differently designed frames. I'm not saying yours are or are not as I have
> no clue !
>
> You should have an easier time as your reach issue is from reach being too
> long and 50-60mm stems with rising angles are plenty. But you must remember
> that say a 50mm stem with a +35d rise isn't going to rise all that much in
> usable height. I know you know the link !
> http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php
>
> Monocogs according to
> https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Redline/Monocog-29er,4403
> had 73d STA and 72d HTA with a TT of 60.3 on a 17" frame. I assume that is
> the medium as other years of that frame called the 17" a medium. (@ sizes
> and geometry look for the green "view geometry" link to the right).
>
>
> On Thursday, October 24, 2024 at 6:02:31 PM UTC-4 Elisabeth Sherwood wrote:
>
>> Ritchey has @ $50 stems with 30-degree rises:
>>
>> https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/stems/comp-4-axis-30d-stem
>>
>> (Not available, apparently, from Ritchey directly, but someone should
>> have them in the shorter lengths...)
>>
>> (Note that short-length stems don't actually rise very much, regardless
>> of the angle of the rise!)
>>
>> Cheers!
>>
>> Liz
>> Washington, DC
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, October 24, 2024 at 4:34:21 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> This list ought to know about this question.
>>>
>>> I hope to install Maes Parallels when I rebuild the Medium 2012 Monocog
>>> and since the effective tt is 59.5 cm* compared to the 56.5 or 57 where I
>>> usually install such a bar I’ll need a stem that is both 25 or 30 mm
>>> shorter than the 80s I use on my road bike and that also gets the bar clamp
>>> at least level with saddle (don’t know needed height above spacers since I
>>> don’t yet have the saddle installed, but this suffices for the general
>>> question).
>>>
>>> Question: Where can I find threadless stems with 5 cm extensio

Re: [RBW] Re: First Riv consideration

[R Olson]

FWIW, I think Riv is very conservative in their weight ratings.  Even their 
"light" offerings are very sturdy.  I am 275 lbs and have owned several of 
their bikes and never had a problem.  That includes a 61cm Roadeo and 61cm 
Roadini.  Both were pretty stiff even with my weight.  I road both mostly 
on pavement, but also on some light gravel trails around the City 
(Denver).  I put maybe 10-15 extra pounds on the Roadini in a rear 
saddlebag and no issues.  Actually the most flexible Riv I had was a 64cm 
Clem L, which is probably understandable given the low stepover and very 
long effective top tube length.  I used to load that one up with groceries 
all the time in a front basket - probably another 20 pounds.  It was fine, 
but a bit flexy.

-Ryan

On Thursday, October 24, 2024 at 5:32:01 PM UTC-6 Patrick Moore wrote:

> FWIW. I’ve never toured but for decades I’ve carried heavy rear pannier 
> loads (up to 50 lb) on lightweight frames including 2 Riv custom roads, a 
> Ram, a heavy but very noodley Raleigh Technium (once carried ~20 lb of 
> library books in a tall stack in my left pannier, nothing on right, across 
> town), and on my best rear load carrier of them all, a very light, *tout 
> 531* 1973 Motobecane Grand Record racing frame. Tubus Fly or custom 
> racks. There was often a bit of tail wag — but less on the Motobecane for 
> some reason! -- but apart from long distances on very rough roads I’d not 
> worry too much about it.
>
> IME and IMO, Rivendells are overbuilt for riders well under 200 lb and I’d 
> not worry about it.
>
> If I’m going to carry more than 30 lb on the current Riv-cloned 2020 
> Matthews with thinnish wall, normal gauge 531 tubing I do prefer to spread 
> the load over front and rear panniers, say 20/30 f/r.
>
> Patrick “currently about 170” Moore
>
> On Thu, Oct 24, 2024 at 2:14 PM Jason Fuller  wrote:
>
>> Based on my experience with the CHG prototype I had, the Susie I have, 
>> and the frame geo and tubing on the production CHG - I am willing to bet it 
>> will have quite a noticeable flex to the frame, but I don't mean that in a 
>> negative way at all, quite the contrary!  But if you commute with one 
>> heavier pannier like I do, it might feel weird. I found the Charlie to 
>> become overly noodly if I had stuff in my front basket and a pannier out 
>> back. 
>>
>> I think that if you wanted to run a rear rack (Nitto 32R would be 
>> perfect) and pair of panniers as a typical max load, the Charlie will be 
>> perfect. If you want to be able to run a pair of panniers out back and then 
>> a sizeable load up front as well, I would wait for a Hillborne.  Keeping 
>> all the load at one end will minimize the additional stresses on the frame 
>> and I wouldn't personally worry about even heavier loads in those panniers 
>> (though I'd ride a little more gingerly at those times)  
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday 24 October 2024 at 09:37:05 UTC-7 Donzaemon wrote:
>>
>>> I've been wondering about weight limit myself. I have an AHH and weigh 
>>> around 160 lb and have thought about doing some light touring with it. I 
>>> wouldn't characterize the tubing as delicate at all and I feel pretty 
>>> confident I can take what I think is an average loadout with it. Almost all 
>>> of my gear is midrange except for maybe my 2p tent which is roughly 2.5 
>>> lbs. 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, October 23, 2024 at 4:19:10 PM UTC-7 ttoshi wrote:
>>>
 I am also in the ~150 lb range, and for my A Homer Hilsen, I never felt 
 any flex until I loaded about 20-25 lbs of groceries in the back. The bike 
 felt sprightly with the weight in the back.  I don't know if the 
 spring-like feeling I got riding out of the saddle is planing, but it sure 
 felt good.

 I'm guessing that the Charlie is built for ~185 lbs if not more, so I 
 personally would not hesitate to add 20 lbs on a rear rack and another 
 5-10 
 for the front (for your weight).

 Toshi in Oakland

>>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/d27d327c-ed51-4628-b64d-ee4a05a62ba7n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
> services
>
>
> ---
>
> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,

[RBW] Re: FS 700c Velocity Atlas wheel

[Drew Fitchette]

Sold!

On Wednesday, October 23, 2024 at 6:12:32 PM UTC-4 Drew Fitchette wrote:

> Hey folks, 
>
> As everyone is looking ahead to their Appa frames, or Charlie pre order, I 
> figured I'd make this wheel available again for sale! 
>
>
>- *Velocity Atlas 700c Front Wheel on Deore Hub by Hands on 
>wheels(looks nearly new) - $125 *
>
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/a4476591-2aec-4093-be00-2bb09aa09da1n%40googlegroups.com.

[RBW] Re: FS: Roaduno wheelset with Phil Wood hub

[CMR]

Front wheel still available!

On Monday, September 16, 2024 at 2:43:13 PM UTC-7 CMR wrote:

> Phil rear sold.
>
> Sora/Cliffhanger front wheel still available for $65 picked up or $105 
> shipped. Thanks!
>
> On Wednesday, August 21, 2024 at 10:56:51 AM UTC-7 CMR wrote:
>
>>  120mm rear but Phil has spacers for 130mm. I am using hardware store 
>> spacers for 130mm without a problem. Both are wheels are 700c.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 20, 2024 at 9:39:10 AM UTC-7 CMR wrote:
>>
>>> -Phil Wood rear for $175
>>> -Cliffhanger front for $65
>>> -$225 for both
>>> -Add $40 to ship either or both
>>>
>>> On Thursday, July 18, 2024 at 9:35:10 PM UTC-7 CMR wrote:
>>>
 Still available
 On Monday, July 1, 2024 at 12:55:17 PM UTC-7 CMR wrote:

> Tires are no longer available!
> -Phil Wood rear for $190
> -Cliffhanger front for $90
> -$250 for both
> -Add $40 to ship either or both
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
>
> On Friday, June 28, 2024 at 9:51:14 AM UTC-7 CMR wrote:
>
>> Congrats to all who grabbed a Roaduno - who needs a wheelset?! I also 
>> have a 105-Mavic front wheel if you want something narrower than the 
>> cliffhanger, but not as nice condition as the other two wheels (-$25 for 
>> these).
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, June 25, 2024 at 9:55:30 AM UTC-7 CMR wrote:
>>
>>> Still available and can potentially split the wheels if interested.
>>>
>>> On Saturday, June 22, 2024 at 8:21:00 AM UTC-7 CMR wrote:
>>>
 Price drop - $280 without tires, $325 with tires, picked up in 
 Menlo Park, happy to ship at cost.


 On Thursday, June 20, 2024 at 10:26:00 PM UTC-7 CMR wrote:

> Buy this wheelset and save me from buying the Roaduno frame!
>
> Phil wood rear hub laced to Sun CR18 rim
> Shimano silver hub laced to Velocity Cliffhanger (tubeless ready)
> Gravelking slicks 700x38
> Phil wood 14t track cog included but needs a lockring, or remove 
> it and use a freewheel!
> All silver everything
>
> Pics: https://www.flickr.com/photos/21267164@N02/with/53805889410
>
>
> $375 picked up in Menlo Park, happy to ship at cost.
>


-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/861541c2-5eaa-4438-9f83-2ac6eef316ecn%40googlegroups.com.

[RBW] FS trail a bike

[Bernard Duhon]

Grand kids have outgrown my Burley . IT is time to pass along.
Burnley piccolo trail a bike, with moose rack.  Well engineered
not cheap department store variety. mounts on the rear rack
not the seat post. With 2 legged kickstand but without crank shorteners 
$200.00
.

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com  On 
Behalf Of Jeffrey Zelevansky
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2024 6:42 PM
To: RBW Owners Bunch 
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: SH and trail a bike

Thanks everyone! Looking forward to trying this out!
On Monday, October 21, 2024 at 11:04:56 AM UTC-4 
ber...@bernardduhon.com wrote:







 I have one on my Waterford “Atlantis” build
It works great and this seems to be a near infinite way that you can adjust the 
frame mounts.  The only problem might be if you could struts two short but then 
again you would be able to a new set of












From: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com  on behalf of 
iamkeith 
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2024 12:23 PM
To: RBW Owners Bunch 
Subject: [RBW] Re: SH and trail a bike

I used one of those, but it was mounted to old mountain bikes mostly.  I can't 
imagine why it wouldn't work on a Sam Hilbourne since it probably has more and 
better braze-ons.  I'd maybe  measure the vertical height from your lower 
mounting point to the top of the rear tire/fender, to make sure you have 
clearance under the top of the rack.  Is there some other specific condition 
you're worried about?  Should be fun!
On Sunday, October 20, 2024 at 10:53:42 AM UTC-6 Bill Lindsay wrote:
I should be terrific provided you have the hardware to get the Moose Rack nice 
and level on your Hillborne.

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Sunday, October 20, 2024 at 8:53:44 AM UTC-7 
jeff.ze...@gmail.com wrote:
I just got a new to me Hillborne and was wondering if anyone out there has used 
the Burley Moose rear rack to use a trail-a-bike setup on a Riv. I’ve been 
using this setup on my aged Surly CC and can’t imagine it would be an issue on 
my new ride, but thought I’d ask before I disassemble.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/2ed210d5-f958-4eb5-a2fb-3bd25c38aa1an%40googlegroups.com.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to 
rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/e7534db7-0ec8-4093-b977-86a4a50d0581n%40googlegroups.com.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CH2PR17MB3720F1BAB81B98B5D98F8F74CD482%40CH2PR17MB3720.namprd17.prod.outlook.com.

Re: [RBW] Converting my Sam H to drops

[Jeffrey Zelevansky]

Beautiful bike @David Hays. I did find one good shot on the Riv website 
that I missed earlier. I'm especially looking for a head on view from the 
front if at all possible. Thanks again!

On Friday, October 25, 2024 at 7:44:44 PM UTC-4 David Hays wrote:

> Here’s my Homer Jeffrey.
> I’ll look later to see if I have any closeups.
>
> David Hays
> Williamsville, New York
>
>
>
>
> [image: Homer-4.11.21.jpg]
>
> On Oct 25, 2024, at 7:38 PM, Jeffrey Zelevansky  
> wrote:
>
> Would anyone out there be willing to share photos of their drop bar 
> Hillborne or similar so that I can see cable routing? I think it'll prbly 
> be self-explanatory once I get going, but it would be a big help to me to 
> have a visual aid before I start. I'm using an older set of Shimano bar 
> ends and a set of Tektro brake levers. I'd also really like to see closeup 
> images of how to wrap the bars around a set of bar ends with the shift 
> cable emerging.
>
> I have done this project before on a different bike but it was some time 
> ago and I seem to recall some trial and error which I'd like to avoid!
>
> Thanks for any help!
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/362eb405-e684-4b38-86b2-06e85da63231n%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/d1967690-f2ef-46d7-a1b5-8321ed6d8ec9n%40googlegroups.com.

[RBW] Suggestions for no-extension or very-short extension clamp-on stems

[Patrick Moore]

This list ought to know about this question.

I hope to install Maes Parallels when I rebuild the Medium 2012 Monocog and
since the effective tt is 59.5 cm* compared to the 56.5 or 57 where I
usually install such a bar I’ll need a stem that is both 25 or 30 mm
shorter than the 80s I use on my road bike and that also gets the bar clamp
at least level with saddle (don’t know needed height above spacers since I
don’t yet have the saddle installed, but this suffices for the general
question).

Question: Where can I find threadless stems with 5 cm extensions and a 30
or 35* rise that don’t cost custom prices? a 6 cm ought to work since I
will have the bar level with saddle instead of ~3 cm below.

This looks promising at $75 but even that is high for a throwaway beater:
https://analogcycles.com/products/gnomehopper-60mm-stem

Second question: Are adjustable stems sturdy enough for long-term use?

Thanks.

*I  could only find the spec for the 2015 Monocog 29er aluminum but this
fits with my own admittedly slapdash measurements. If anyone can correct
me, please do so.

I will have fun with this build. I think of ultralight 60 mm Big Ones and
the long unused S3X with 17 t cog and if I can make it work a cosmetically
marred Dura Ace GA 200 crank with 42 t ring for ~ 72, 54, and 45 inch gears
or perhaps an 18 for 68, 51, 43. Time will tell.

-- 

Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
---

Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing
services

---

*When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*

*But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*

*I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CALuTfgvxZ69kA3Z67YUwzS12GSk_B55NSxO0jhXS3jji7eSStA%40mail.gmail.com.

Re: [RBW] Re: Nature study: Pike's Peak with Quickbeam (Deacon Patrick's Quickbeam)

[Patrick Moore]

That’s the name. Lovely area.

On Thu, Oct 24, 2024 at 7:30 PM ascpgh  wrote:

> Was that Rampart Reservoir?
>
> I've gone up there from the AF Academy. On the map it looks like a pretty
> nice destination coming from Florissant, about 40 miles drive to a good
> start point. I may have even queried Deacon Patrick about that soon after
> your visit.
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
> On Wednesday, October 23, 2024 at 10:31:10 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Just stumbled across this picture amongst my jpegs.
>>
>> Back in 2015 I was visiting my sister and family in the mountains
>> somewhere vaguely North and West of Florissant, CO while waiting for my
>> daughter to get done with summer camp, already,  somewhere around Fort
>> Collins -- I forget the arrangements, but IIRC I drove her to Co Springs,
>> dropped her off with the Orthodox Youth Summer camp gang, then drove to
>> Florrisant while camp gang headed to Ft Collins ... I forget how it worked
>> but that's what happened.
>>
>> In any event I had arranged to meet Patrick at some vast scenic open
>> space that I think was about the latitude and longitude of Florissant,
>> scores of square miles of rolling dirt roads around a vast reservoir or
>> man-made lake -- does anyone know it?
>>
>> We had a very nice ride during which some demon in my BB7s, hitherto
>> meekly well-adjusted and quiet, kept whisp-whisp-whisping and occasionaly
>> screeching -- early injuries had made Patrick very sensitive to such noises.
>>
>> We had a good ride, tho' as a flatlander from 5K feet I struggled to keep
>> up, and my flatland bosque bike handling skills were inadequate to some of
>> the more technical and rocky sections of the lake's circumferential trail,
>> resulting in a tumble that had me, at least to my panicked imagination,
>> pretty darned close to falling into the lake 100 feet below.
>>
>> I rode my ~2010 Fargo with 29" tires. I was young and strong -- I had
>> recently turned 60 -- and had great fun grunting my way up the very steep
>> and winding dirt roads on approach to my sister's house at 9K feet with a
>> bottom gear of 29" -- 46-36-24 X 14-24 7 speed, IIRC.
>>
>> Good times.
>>
>> Patrick "now all I have are memories" Moore
>>
>>
>> [image: image.png]
>>
>> --
>>
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>> ---
>>
>> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing
>> services
>>
>>
>> ---
>>
>> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>>
>> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>>
>> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/6b1b7114-501b-4229-bf51-77f2edfe01b0n%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
>


-- 

Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
---

Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing
services

---

*When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*

*But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*

*I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CALuTfgvGc0eeo5mG_gqvHSPziDNM%2BrohXgCa%2BG57BWpoWs-HMA%40mail.gmail.com.

[RBW] Re: 2024 Appaloosa has arrived. Considering putting it together myself but have never done this.

[Dan]

Thanks for all the feedback everyone. Aaron, great video. That is really 
helpful. Bill, my bike is built at Riv so I appreciate you letting me know 
the difference. I have some Phil wood grease on the way now. I have tools 
that a friend is lending me, but I will grab my own as well. I'll be sure 
to get a bike stand too. 
On Thursday, October 24, 2024 at 9:16:00 AM UTC-6 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> "As I am sure most of you are aware, Rivendell sends complete bikes mostly 
> built with the exception of the stem, seat tube saddle and pedals"
>
> This is a true statement about two VERY different things:
>
> 1. A pro at Rivendell, like Mark Abele, personally pulled together your 
> build, did the entire build like the pro he is, and THEN handed it over to 
> Antonio or somebody else who professionally boxed it up by removing the 
> parts you list.  
> 2. You bought a Riv Complete, which came in a box in a container from Asia 
> and was partially assembled at the factory.
>
> Which of the two cases are we talking about?  If it's #1, then I concur 
> that it's not a huge job.  You've already paid Mark to do "the build" and 
> paid Antonio to do "the boxing".  The job you are paying a shop for is not 
> "a build".  It's an "unboxing".  Sure, if it's an unboxing, do it yourself. 
>
> If it's #2, then to do it right, a lot of what has been "assembled" should 
> really come apart so it can be done right.  A $150 quote is roughly 2.5 
> hours of work, and that's about right for a good mechanic to execute a 
> proper build on a Riv Complete, in my opinion.  If you've never done any of 
> that before, if you were determined to do it right, then budget for 2-3x 
> that time.  If you were determined to leave the pre-built stuff exactly as 
> it is, and not re-do anything, that's another approach, but it's not a 
> substitute for the $150 job you'd get from a good mechanic at a good shop.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, October 23, 2024 at 10:37:54 AM UTC-7 Dan wrote:
>
>> So my beautiful Appaloosa has arrived. I am practically foaming at the 
>> mouth as I type. As I am sure most of you are aware, Rivendell sends 
>> complete bikes mostly built with the exception of the stem, seat tube 
>> saddle and pedals. I originally planned on bring my bike to a shop to have 
>> them complete the build for me but after some shopping around, the shops 
>> will charge a full build fee which averages around $150. That is far too 
>> much for such little work in my opinion.
>>
>> I am no bike mechanic. I have always enjoyed tinkering though so I have 
>> half a mind to attempt to put the rest together myself and then bring it to 
>> a shop to be tuned, which would cost much less than a "full build". 
>>
>> Should I go ahead and give it a shot? I have access to the proper tools, 
>> I just do not know where to start and obviously do not want to damage 
>> anything in the process.
>>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/444892cf-ee67-4425-8501-a06d0dc210a4n%40googlegroups.com.

Re: [RBW] Converting my Sam H to drops

[Bob Warner]

David, great looking AHH!I’m also from  Williamsville… so how do we get a Riv Ride for Williamsville/Buffalo Riv aficionados?~ Bob Sent from my iPhoneOn Oct 25, 2024, at 7:44 PM, David Hays <23writ...@gmail.com> wrote:Here’s my Homer Jeffrey.I’ll look later to see if I have any closeups.David HaysWilliamsville, New YorkOn Oct 25, 2024, at 7:38 PM, Jeffrey Zelevansky  wrote:Would anyone out there be willing to share photos of their drop bar Hillborne or similar so that I can see cable routing? I think it'll prbly be self-explanatory once I get going, but it would be a big help to me to have a visual aid before I start. I'm using an older set of Shimano bar ends and a set of Tektro brake levers. I'd also really like to see closeup images of how to wrap the bars around a set of bar ends with the shift cable emerging.I have done this project before on a different bike but it was some time ago and I seem to recall some trial and error which I'd like to avoid!Thanks for any help!

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/362eb405-e684-4b38-86b2-06e85da63231n%40googlegroups.com.




-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/886DFF77-0C4C-4CF1-85F0-44A933E189F5%40gmail.com.




-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CC9262E5-6CA1-4BE7-B792-979B95E4A050%40gmail.com.

[RBW] Re: CHG - who's getting it?

[David P]

Congrats.  I see that they are already sold out of the 49cm gold frames.

On Friday, October 25, 2024 at 12:08:52 PM UTC-7 Ashwath Akirekadu wrote:

> Greetings bunch!
>
> After a long break from bike projects, now I have ordered a dark gold 
> Gallop frame.  Stoked it is finally here.  Looking forward to making use of 
> the winter indoor times to build it up!
>
> happy trails, 
> Ash
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/1620dacb-8bcf-4b35-a1d3-af6fa58eed82n%40googlegroups.com.

[RBW] Re: CHG - who's getting it?

[Chuck Blessing]

Was considering it, but don't see that it would be that much different from 
my Sam. Gold would be my choice, too. 

On Friday, October 25, 2024 at 3:33:00 PM UTC-4 cycli...@gmail.com wrote:

> Congrats.  I see that they are already sold out of the 49cm gold frames.
>
> On Friday, October 25, 2024 at 12:08:52 PM UTC-7 Ashwath Akirekadu wrote:
>
>> Greetings bunch!
>>
>> After a long break from bike projects, now I have ordered a dark gold 
>> Gallop frame.  Stoked it is finally here.  Looking forward to making use of 
>> the winter indoor times to build it up!
>>
>> happy trails, 
>> Ash
>>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/804be55c-fc38-466e-8fa6-7877133bf10an%40googlegroups.com.

[RBW] Gallup Presale

[David P]

T minus 5 minutes to show time.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/eab4abf1-b25f-4d2b-8d27-a84de6ce92b1n%40googlegroups.com.

Re: [RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[Bill Lindsay]

I own both the Soulor and the Galibier which are the same narrow upper. 
 The only difference between them is the steel vs ti rails.  My opinion is 
there is no difference in ride.  They are the same saddle with respect to 
comfort.  The Galibier is just more expensive and lighter.  Otherwise the 
two saddles are identical in my book.  If it's a premium build and you are 
sparing no expense and you can afford it, spring for the Ti rails.  If 
you'd rather keep that $75 for one more tank of gas, then the steel rails 
are just fine.  

the Berthoud site has a sale on the Soulor in the hideous "cork" colorway. 
 I've been wanting one more Soulor to deploy in my stable and displace a 
less-perfect saddle.  Maybe now's the time.  I could pull off the act to 
support an ironic ugly premium saddle.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Friday, October 25, 2024 at 4:44:37 PM UTC-7 Tim Tom wrote:

> Can any of you who have ridden both the Aspin and Aravis on steel bikes 
> with 40-50mm tires share if you notice a ride quality improvement with the 
> Ti rails?  
> On Friday, April 19, 2019 at 5:35:49 PM UTC-7 John Phillips wrote:
>
>> Hi Kai,
>> I position my saddle so my sit bones are centered about where the 
>> widest part of the saddle is. I do shift back and forth a tiny bit when I 
>> stretch out or sit up straight and ride hands free. I am riding with larger 
>> pedals, with my arches centered over the spindles of the pedals, so I 
>> needed to lower my saddle 4cm and that places the saddle 1.3cm forward. My 
>> PBH is 85cm and my saddle height is about 71cm on Nitto S83 seatposts with 
>> the saddles all the way back on their rails.
>>
>> Does that help?
>>
>> John
>>
>> On Friday, April 19, 2019 at 2:44:01 PM UTC-7, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks John, 
>>> Do you find yourself sitting farther forward on the Berthouds? 
>>> -Kai
>>
>>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/364aa655-d96c-4009-bd16-3563f6d7a186n%40googlegroups.com.

Re: [RBW] Re: SH and trail a bike

[Jeffrey Zelevansky]

Thanks everyone! Looking forward to trying this out!

On Monday, October 21, 2024 at 11:04:56 AM UTC-4 ber...@bernardduhon.com 
wrote:

>
>
>
>
>  
>
>  I have one on my Waterford “Atlantis” build
> It works great and this seems to be a near infinite way that you can 
> adjust the frame mounts.  The only problem might be if you could struts two 
> short but then again you would be able to a new set of
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
>
> --
> *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com  on 
> behalf of iamkeith 
> *Sent:* Sunday, October 20, 2024 12:23 PM
> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch 
> *Subject:* [RBW] Re: SH and trail a bike 
>  
> I used one of those, but it was mounted to old mountain bikes mostly.  I 
> can't imagine why it wouldn't work on a Sam Hilbourne since it probably has 
> more and better braze-ons.  I'd maybe  measure the vertical height from 
> your lower mounting point to the top of the rear tire/fender, to make sure 
> you have clearance under the top of the rack.  Is there some other specific 
> condition you're worried about?  Should be fun!
>
> On Sunday, October 20, 2024 at 10:53:42 AM UTC-6 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> I should be terrific provided you have the hardware to get the Moose Rack 
> nice and level on your Hillborne.   
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Sunday, October 20, 2024 at 8:53:44 AM UTC-7 jeff.ze...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
> I just got a new to me Hillborne and was wondering if anyone out there has 
> used the Burley Moose rear rack to use a trail-a-bike setup on a Riv. I’ve 
> been using this setup on my aged Surly CC and can’t imagine it would be an 
> issue on my new ride, but thought I’d ask before I disassemble. 
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/2ed210d5-f958-4eb5-a2fb-3bd25c38aa1an%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/e7534db7-0ec8-4093-b977-86a4a50d0581n%40googlegroups.com.

Re: [RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[Tim Tom]

Can any of you who have ridden both the Aspin and Aravis on steel bikes 
with 40-50mm tires share if you notice a ride quality improvement with the 
Ti rails?  
On Friday, April 19, 2019 at 5:35:49 PM UTC-7 John Phillips wrote:

> Hi Kai,
> I position my saddle so my sit bones are centered about where the 
> widest part of the saddle is. I do shift back and forth a tiny bit when I 
> stretch out or sit up straight and ride hands free. I am riding with larger 
> pedals, with my arches centered over the spindles of the pedals, so I 
> needed to lower my saddle 4cm and that places the saddle 1.3cm forward. My 
> PBH is 85cm and my saddle height is about 71cm on Nitto S83 seatposts with 
> the saddles all the way back on their rails.
>
> Does that help?
>
> John
>
> On Friday, April 19, 2019 at 2:44:01 PM UTC-7, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks John, 
>> Do you find yourself sitting farther forward on the Berthouds? 
>> -Kai
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/add11055-1de3-4bb4-bf1e-bb6887aa7f0en%40googlegroups.com.

[RBW] Converting my Sam H to drops

[Jeffrey Zelevansky]

Would anyone out there be willing to share photos of their drop bar 
Hillborne or similar so that I can see cable routing? I think it'll prbly 
be self-explanatory once I get going, but it would be a big help to me to 
have a visual aid before I start. I'm using an older set of Shimano bar 
ends and a set of Tektro brake levers. I'd also really like to see closeup 
images of how to wrap the bars around a set of bar ends with the shift 
cable emerging.

I have done this project before on a different bike but it was some time 
ago and I seem to recall some trial and error which I'd like to avoid!

Thanks for any help!

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/362eb405-e684-4b38-86b2-06e85da63231n%40googlegroups.com.

Re: [RBW] Berthoud Saddles

[Timothy Tolls]

Bill and Danny - I appreciate your feedback.  Your suggestion makes complete 
sense.  Thanks!


> On Oct 25, 2024, at 5:36 PM, Danny  wrote:
> 
> I've ridden both on the same bike with 700c x 44mm tires. I concur with Bill, 
> I didn't notice a difference in the ride. That being said, I would still 
> spring for the Aravis if I was flush with cash and it was for a special build.
> 
> Danny
> Madison, WI
> 
> On Fri, Oct 25, 2024 at 7:00 PM Bill Lindsay  > wrote:
>> I own both the Soulor and the Galibier which are the same narrow upper.  The 
>> only difference between them is the steel vs ti rails.  My opinion is there 
>> is no difference in ride.  They are the same saddle with respect to comfort. 
>>  The Galibier is just more expensive and lighter.  Otherwise the two saddles 
>> are identical in my book.  If it's a premium build and you are sparing no 
>> expense and you can afford it, spring for the Ti rails.  If you'd rather 
>> keep that $75 for one more tank of gas, then the steel rails are just fine.  
>> 
>> the Berthoud site has a sale on the Soulor in the hideous "cork" colorway.  
>> I've been wanting one more Soulor to deploy in my stable and displace a 
>> less-perfect saddle.  Maybe now's the time.  I could pull off the act to 
>> support an ironic ugly premium saddle.  
>> 
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>> 
>> On Friday, October 25, 2024 at 4:44:37 PM UTC-7 Tim Tom wrote:
>>> Can any of you who have ridden both the Aspin and Aravis on steel bikes 
>>> with 40-50mm tires share if you notice a ride quality improvement with the 
>>> Ti rails?  
>>> On Friday, April 19, 2019 at 5:35:49 PM UTC-7 John Phillips wrote:
 Hi Kai,
 I position my saddle so my sit bones are centered about where the 
 widest part of the saddle is. I do shift back and forth a tiny bit when I 
 stretch out or sit up straight and ride hands free. I am riding with 
 larger pedals, with my arches centered over the spindles of the pedals, so 
 I needed to lower my saddle 4cm and that places the saddle 1.3cm forward. 
 My PBH is 85cm and my saddle height is about 71cm on Nitto S83 seatposts 
 with the saddles all the way back on their rails.
 
 Does that help?
 
 John
 
 On Friday, April 19, 2019 at 2:44:01 PM UTC-7, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
 wrote:
> 
> Thanks John, 
> Do you find yourself sitting farther forward on the Berthouds? 
> -Kai
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com 
>> .
>> To view this discussion visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/364aa655-d96c-4009-bd16-3563f6d7a186n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> .
> 
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google 
> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this topic, visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/2y806QrtoDU/unsubscribe.
> To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to 
> rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com 
> .
> To view this discussion visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CAJrvVQ%2B2ZWzOO7TfWqJ%3DL68hKuHdSD%2B5%2BA1Q-NGhSJgLDGuDEQ%40mail.gmail.com
>  
> .

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/2F054C58-178E-4420-A6D2-E8B91627A590%40gmail.com.

[RBW] Re: 2024 Appaloosa has arrived. Considering putting it together myself but have never done this.

[Peter Adler]

It's probably not necessary to go nuts on gear spending, at least until 
you're absolutely sure you need to do so.

A bike stand is super handy, but it's not absolutely essential. It's one 
thing if you frequently assemble/wrench on bikes; during a one-year stretch 
where I was holding onto a friend's stand, I assembled eight bikes from 
stems and components, while it's hard to assemble more than one a year 
without the stand. But it's not impossible to do these things standless. 
The last three I've done happened without a stand, just on the dining room 
floor - even the work on brakes and drivetrain, where the stand really 
helps. If the more serious work is irregular/infrequent, you can probably 
get by without a stand. If you have access to a community bike shop, the 
stand/s they'll have will probably be adequate for the few situations that 
occur.

it's easy to go nuts with tool accumulation (*guilty!*), but the range of 
indispensable tools is fairly narrow. My own preference is to always have 
the tools to install/remove any crankset and freewheel/cassette I use, and 
not to use any crankset/freewheel/cassette I cannot remove. My neighbor 
Bill Lindsay can confirm this; I had a nice Phil Wood-hubbed wheel with a 
nicey-nice White Industries BMX freewheel on it that sat untouched for over 
a decade, until I was able to borrow Bill's freewheel remover and get the 
freewheel off *this week*. Other tools that are likely to see regular use 
are Allen wrenches, hex sockets and screwdrivers required to 
install/adjust/remove pedals and brakes/brake levers; the Y-style 8/9/10mm 
hex socket wrench and 4/5/6mm Allen wrench are often adequate for this, 
plus an 8mm Allen wrench and/or 15mm pedal spanner to install/remove pedals.

Since you're usisng a Rivendell, you're probably using a traditional 
square-tapered crankset. If you're getting deeper into drivetrains on 
these, a chainbreaker, a crankbolt spanner and the appropriate crank 
extractor for your crankarms are useful. Some more elaborate multitools 
have chainbreakers built in; I made do with the chainbreaker built into my 
cheap, no-name Taiwanese multitool for years before getting a nicer Park 
one. If your crankarms have self-extracting crankbolts, then the arms will 
likely pull off the bottm bracket spindle with an 8mm (usual) or 6mm (older 
Shimano Dura Ace/600) Allen wrench. If not, then you'll need the Allen or 
hex wrench necessary to get your crankbolts off (usually either 8mm Allen 
or 14/15/16mm hex) and then the extractor for your crankset.

Japanese, Campagnolo and all modern-ish cranksets use a 22mm extractor, 
which are practically the only ones made these days. But if you're using 
older cranksets (pre-80s, basically) from the French manufacturers 
Stronglight or Specialites T.A., the crank extractor holes may be larger 
than 22mm; older TAs are 23mm, and older Stronglights are 23.35mm. Don't 
use a 22mm extractor on an old French crankset unless you're absolutely 
sure it's the right size; it's easy to loosely thread the steel extractor 
into the aluminum crankarm, and then strip the extractor threads out of the 
crankarm when the extractor tries to pull the arm off the bottom bracket 
spindle. I'm not saying "don't use old French cranksets'; I use practically 
nothing but. But understand what you're getting yourself into first, and 
get your tools in order before you start. The French-sized extractors are 
available from a variety of sources (eBay/Craigslist/closing oldie bike 
shops for used, Stein Tools 
/eBay
 
for new), should you need them.

There's a lot of religious theories on grease. I like Phil Wood's green 
grease, in part out of reactionary sentimentality; I'm not sure that it 
works any better or any worse than any other grease, but it sure costs 
more. My compromise has been to use Phil grease in any situation where ball 
bearings are involved (bottom brackets, headsets, hubs, some old derailleur 
pulleys), and to use the muchcheaper Park blue grease in all other 
situations (frame/headset/bolt/axle/QR threads, seatposts, stems). There 
are lithium greases intended for mechanical assembly that come even cheaper 
in cans, that are reputed to be just as good (if not better). If I had that 
much, I'd almost certainly misplace the half-used cans and go ballistic 
when I couldn't find it. As it is, I probably have six half-used tubes of 
Phil and Park grease around, because I buy another tube whenever I can't 
find the one I'm looking for.

Speaking of which: Has the formula of Park's grease changed in the last few 
years? The most recent tube I got seems thicker, denser somehow; it's a lot 
harder to squeeze out of the tube than it was in previous years.

Peter Adler
Berkeley, CA

On Friday, October 25, 2024 at 7:17:54 AM UTC-7 Dan wrote:

I have some Phil wood grease on the way now. I have tools that a friend is 
lending me, but I will grab my ow

[RBW] CHG - who's getting it?

[Ashwath Akirekadu]

Greetings bunch!

After a long break from bike projects, now I have ordered a dark gold 
Gallop frame.  Stoked it is finally here.  Looking forward to making use of 
the winter indoor times to build it up!

happy trails, 
Ash

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/6d753084-8989-42a1-a597-71ab21f6c33en%40googlegroups.com.

Re: [RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[Danny]

I've ridden both on the same bike with 700c x 44mm tires. I concur with
Bill, I didn't notice a difference in the ride. That being said, I would
still spring for the Aravis if I was flush with cash and it was for a
special build.

Danny
Madison, WI

On Fri, Oct 25, 2024 at 7:00 PM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> I own both the Soulor and the Galibier which are the same narrow upper.
> The only difference between them is the steel vs ti rails.  My opinion is
> there is no difference in ride.  They are the same saddle with respect to
> comfort.  The Galibier is just more expensive and lighter.  Otherwise the
> two saddles are identical in my book.  If it's a premium build and you are
> sparing no expense and you can afford it, spring for the Ti rails.  If
> you'd rather keep that $75 for one more tank of gas, then the steel rails
> are just fine.
>
> the Berthoud site has a sale on the Soulor in the hideous "cork"
> colorway.  I've been wanting one more Soulor to deploy in my stable and
> displace a less-perfect saddle.  Maybe now's the time.  I could pull off
> the act to support an ironic ugly premium saddle.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Friday, October 25, 2024 at 4:44:37 PM UTC-7 Tim Tom wrote:
>
>> Can any of you who have ridden both the Aspin and Aravis on steel bikes
>> with 40-50mm tires share if you notice a ride quality improvement with the
>> Ti rails?
>> On Friday, April 19, 2019 at 5:35:49 PM UTC-7 John Phillips wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Kai,
>>> I position my saddle so my sit bones are centered about where the
>>> widest part of the saddle is. I do shift back and forth a tiny bit when I
>>> stretch out or sit up straight and ride hands free. I am riding with larger
>>> pedals, with my arches centered over the spindles of the pedals, so I
>>> needed to lower my saddle 4cm and that places the saddle 1.3cm forward. My
>>> PBH is 85cm and my saddle height is about 71cm on Nitto S83 seatposts with
>>> the saddles all the way back on their rails.
>>>
>>> Does that help?
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> On Friday, April 19, 2019 at 2:44:01 PM UTC-7, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY
>>> wrote:

 Thanks John,
 Do you find yourself sitting farther forward on the Berthouds?
 -Kai
>>>
>>> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/364aa655-d96c-4009-bd16-3563f6d7a186n%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CAJrvVQ%2B2ZWzOO7TfWqJ%3DL68hKuHdSD%2B5%2BA1Q-NGhSJgLDGuDEQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[Nick Payne]

On Thursday 11 April 2019 at 7:45:50 am UTC+10 Collin A wrote:

Doing a little digging (because I am looking to replace my brooks that has 
eaten 3 pants now), it looks like the Aubisque saddle is the replacement to 
the mente and brings the model more in-line with their other models. Still 
just as wide it seems.

https://berthoudcycles.fr/en/1371-leather-saddle-aubisque-brown.html


Actually the Mente, Aubisque, and Vars saddles all have exactly the same 
shape/size top. On the Vars and Aubisque, the top can be easily replaced by 
the end user, as it is held on with Torx bolts. The difference between the 
two is that the Vars is lighter as it has titanium rails, and the Aubisque 
has stainless steel rails. The Mente is cheaper as the top is riveted on 
and can't be replaced. I have two of the Vars and one of the Mente, and 
there's no discernible difference in feel when sitting on them.

The majority (all?) of the Berthoud saddles come in both Ti and steel rail 
versions. The steel rail versions are named after climbs in the Pyrenees 
and the Ti rail versions after climbs in the Alps.

Nick Payne

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/9aa2efda-3f63-4f66-8980-e861b10e3a85n%40googlegroups.com.