[RBW] Re: Question for Nitto 33R (Big Back Rack, Large) havers

[Bob]

Michael, I wish I could say the same, but I've bounced the heck out of some 
laden panniers before.

Joe, I've thought of that approach. May end up having to go that way.

--
Bob
On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 11:17:12 AM UTC-6 Michael Morrissey wrote:

> I use Ortliebs and the back hook kind of points from the back to the 
> saddle. Otherwise I don't worry about it. Usually my baggage is heavy 
> enough for the bags to not really bounce.
>
>
> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 1:05:11 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> My older style Backabikes use a strap so not a direct comparison but they 
>> move around a bit and I don't notice it. If you want to locate the hooks 
>> solidly I'm thinking you could wrap some cloth bar tape on either side, 
>> creating a groove to slot the hook into. 
>>
>> Joe Bernard 
>>
>> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 9:54:54 AM UTC-7 Bob wrote:
>>
>>> Who here regularly uses the Nitto 33R (i.e. RBW's Big Back Rack, Large) 
>>> to carry panniers? How do you ensure retention of the hook at the bottom of 
>>> the rack? (By "hook" here I mean the single hook on a bungee or similar 
>>> elastic cord that prevents the pannier from bouncing up and off the rack 
>>> rails. Swift panniers have them, as do Arkel; Ortlieb and Carradice have a 
>>> different lower attachment.)
>>>
>>> I'm pretty sure older versions of the rack had a loop at the bottom 
>>> where one could secure the pannier's hook, and the current 32R (Big Back 
>>> Rack, Medium) still has such a loop.
>>>
>>> Thank you.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Bob
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Question for Nitto 33R (Big Back Rack, Large) havers

[Joe Bernard]

My older style Backabikes use a strap so not a direct comparison but they 
move around a bit and I don't notice it. If you want to locate the hooks 
solidly I'm thinking you could wrap some cloth bar tape on either side, 
creating a groove to slot the hook into. 

Joe Bernard 

On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 9:54:54 AM UTC-7 Bob wrote:

> Who here regularly uses the Nitto 33R (i.e. RBW's Big Back Rack, Large) to 
> carry panniers? How do you ensure retention of the hook at the bottom of 
> the rack? (By "hook" here I mean the single hook on a bungee or similar 
> elastic cord that prevents the pannier from bouncing up and off the rack 
> rails. Swift panniers have them, as do Arkel; Ortlieb and Carradice have a 
> different lower attachment.)
>
> I'm pretty sure older versions of the rack had a loop at the bottom where 
> one could secure the pannier's hook, and the current 32R (Big Back Rack, 
> Medium) still has such a loop.
>
> Thank you.
>
> --
> Bob
>

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[RBW] Mama Platy in need of repair!

[st nick]

Howdy and sorry that happened.
I know that's frustrating as it's happened to me twice in my decades of cycling 
and once to my wife on her bike.
All 3 times it was caused by the rear derailer limit screws not dialed in 
exactly to prevent over shifting.
There are 2 limit screws , usually marked with an L for low or an H for high.
The low one sets the limit of the derailer to not go beyond the big cog of your 
cassette or freewheel to prevent sending the chain into the spokes.
The high screw prevents the derailer from over shifting to the outer most small 
cog of the cassette or freewheel to prevent sending the chain off the cassette 
causing it to get stuck between the cassette and the drop near the derailer 
hanger possible bending it.
>From my experience sending the chain into the spokes is the worst as it can 
>bend or break spokes which will cost even more to repair.
Either direction of an over shift sucks.
It's made be paranoid about double or triple checking when I install a new 
derailer.
As to dropping a chain into the spokes that's why many bikes come with the so 
called 'dork' disk that fits between the cassette and spokes.
One bike shop owner/mechanic on YouTube that calls himself the Bike Farmer 
insists on installing new disks because he's seen that over shift happen so 
often causing damage.
Two times on my incidents the two bikes had replaceable derailer hangers and it 
was fairly simple to resolve.
Once my derailer broke in half just like yours.
Another time it wrecked 9 spokes and it was a $60 repair bill to replace and 
true the wheel.
Perhaps 'dork' disks are not such a bad idea although I don't currently have 
any on my bikes I do really pay close attention to the derailer limit screws.
I'm sure there are others that can give a better or more precise explanation 
but maybe that helps some.
I hope you get your Platy  back on the road quickly.
I have a similar rear seat on one bike to carry my granddaughter.
Safe riding,
Paul in Dallasbox_liam on Instagram 

>From the picture it looks like your chain stuck on the outside.

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[RBW] Re: Question for Nitto 33R (Big Back Rack, Large) havers

[Michael Morrissey]

I use Ortliebs and the back hook kind of points from the back to the 
saddle. Otherwise I don't worry about it. Usually my baggage is heavy 
enough for the bags to not really bounce.


On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 1:05:11 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:

> My older style Backabikes use a strap so not a direct comparison but they 
> move around a bit and I don't notice it. If you want to locate the hooks 
> solidly I'm thinking you could wrap some cloth bar tape on either side, 
> creating a groove to slot the hook into. 
>
> Joe Bernard 
>
> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 9:54:54 AM UTC-7 Bob wrote:
>
>> Who here regularly uses the Nitto 33R (i.e. RBW's Big Back Rack, Large) 
>> to carry panniers? How do you ensure retention of the hook at the bottom of 
>> the rack? (By "hook" here I mean the single hook on a bungee or similar 
>> elastic cord that prevents the pannier from bouncing up and off the rack 
>> rails. Swift panniers have them, as do Arkel; Ortlieb and Carradice have a 
>> different lower attachment.)
>>
>> I'm pretty sure older versions of the rack had a loop at the bottom where 
>> one could secure the pannier's hook, and the current 32R (Big Back Rack, 
>> Medium) still has such a loop.
>>
>> Thank you.
>>
>> --
>> Bob
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: For sale Park truing stand + accessories

[Ray Varella]

Good eye on the linseed oil Mathias. 
That’s actually a gallon size jug with raw linseed oil. I use it on spoons 
I carve. 
If you look to the right you will see some spoons. 
Raw linseed oil takes longer to polymerize but if it’s pure, it is food 
safe. 

Boiled linseed oil polymerizes faster but depending on the source, it can 
have some pretty nasty chemicals added to speed the drying process. 
For spokes I would use boiled. 
I keep some high quality boiled oil from Sweden. I use it for tool handles 
and outdoor benches, workbenches etc…

Ray

On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 5:51:01 AM UTC-7 mathiass...@gmail.com wrote:

> Extra points for the jar with an inch of linseed oil for spoke thread 
> preparation.
> Does one properly use boiled or raw oil? 
>
> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 5:19:42 PM UTC-4 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>> [image: IMG_2309.jpeg][image: IMG_2307.jpeg]
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Fall Photos 2024

[James Valiensi]

hi,
I cycle along the Mahoning River, downstream from Youngstown Ohio. It is funny 
there is a drive-in named after the river 300-miles away. Make me a little 
homesick. 

> On Oct 7, 2024, at 10:32 AM, Bill S  wrote:
> 
> Just returned home from a 3 day trip with my wife, riding and meeting up with 
> various friends throughout. Rode up to camp at Mauch Chunk Lake in Jim 
> Thorpe, PA day 1, then out to the Mahoning Drive-In theatre for some movies 
> and camping on day 2, and back home on the third 
> day.
> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 5:11:55 PM UTC-4 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:
>> @Jay,
>> 
>> Wonderful and very descriptive ride write up !
>> 
>> Kim Hetzel.
>> 
>> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 1:24:08 PM UTC-7 Jay wrote:
>>> Early fall ride.  Colours just starting to emerge.  My senses were more 
>>> tuned into sound on this morning's ride.  When I started there was no wind 
>>> at all, and almost no cars (Sunday, 7am).  I was riding along and just 
>>> about to climb, I pulled on the DT shifter and heard that lovely ratchet 
>>> sound, followed by a smooth shift and then I powered over a short climb, 
>>> feeling propelled by that feeling of being in the moment, smirking at how 
>>> awesome riding a bike can be.  A little later the wind picked up, on my way 
>>> home, thankfully, and the crips leaves were very loud under my tires.  
>>> Later I rode some doubletrack and the wet leaves and rocks/roots underneath 
>>> gave some other senses: the smell of the decaying leaves, the vibration 
>>> from the terrain, the branches and leaves in the canopy above jostling with 
>>> the much stronger winds.  I was a bit laboured towards the end of the ride 
>>> and my breathing was most noticeable.  All good though :-)
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 2:21:56 AM UTC-4 Wesley wrote:
 Great photos and reports everyone!  I Had a great fall ride up Left Hand 
 Canyon to Ward, CO last weekend, one of Boulder’s classics! The colors 
 were vibrant - I brought my Canon AE-1 to capture a bit of it on some 3M 
 Colorprint II film. Grateful for a good climb, a solid lunch at the top in 
 Ward, and a wonderful journey back down on my Atlantis. Couldn’t have 
 asked for a better day!
 
 
> 
> 
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> .
> 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tics in the bars at the stem clamp - help

[brendonoid]

*"The ends of the head tube are not exactly perpendicular to the geometric 
axis of the head tube, and the fork crowns are not precisely machined so 
that the headset parts don't always line up correctly. Take your bike to an 
experienced mechanic who has the appropriate tools to machine the head tune 
and the fork crown so that the headset components are in the correct 
alignment. Then your bike will really shine."*

This needs to be in bold, pinned to the top of the forum somewhere. I love 
RBW so much but the QC *even* on frames they've 'prepped' in my experience 
has been woeful.

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Re: [RBW] Re: First post - several questions (pbh/height, 650b vs 700, chainstay, etc)

[Peter Fray]

Thank you everyone for your beautiful and very helpful responses. Wonderful 
to be in a community... (referring to a bit from what Andy said - I did 
reach out to Riv, and the problem is I am too indecisive and I really feel 
quite guilty asking too many questions and then get lost in my no-decision 
cloud..not that I don't feel guilty here, but I will less guilty ..hoping 
each discussion helps someone else too..)

@Patrick - thanks for that guidance. Are the top tubes between your Riv vs 
other drop bar bikes very similar..? I feel the newer Riv's are less and 
less designed for drop bars, the ones that are in my pbh have pretty long 
tubes.

@Roullumhass - thanks for those insights! Stuck similarly - and with a 
difference in frame size also changes the wheel size - maybe not a big deal 
but I've often seen posts of rim-brake 650b's rims and it does seem good 
ones are harder to come by. By the way, you said "I notice stem length 
affecting my position on a bike in an adverse way if it gets too short 
(under 70mm)" - what is the adverse way you meant here? Handling or body 
position or...?

@Max - thanks for sharing that. I've tried and failed several times to 
understand (intuitively) what reach signifies - the confusion because I 
feel the top tupe is how much the upper body needs to reach out to hold the 
handlebars, then what is reach? and would the STA and HTA be factored in to 
understand the effect of reach (I mean if two bikes with a similar reach 
had different angles would the reach feel different - assuming the reach is 
the same at the handlebar height you need it)

@Jason - I would like to compare my current bike's geometry here but the 
size suggestions from Riv and the geometry completely throw them off :D 

@Andy - I read your message several times, thanks a lot for sharing your 
journey...seems like *I am in for a ride. *I have written to Will earlier 
and think I should get in touch with him again. Every riv-bike description 
I read on their website, I feel that is the one I should get - always 
pushing, struggling to decide, if there is a one-bike-for-all for me or 
mostly I am fooling myself. I have bought bikes in the past with an 
intended use but it has almost never turned out that way - that pushed me 
to keep playing it safe. Please do share pictures of your bike if you can :)

peter

Dustin schrieb am Sonntag, 6. Oktober 2024 um 21:41:16 UTC+5:30:

> Great post, Andy. Appreciate you taking the time to write out your 
> evolution in cycling. I’m encouraged that you have landed on two bikes 
> (Rambo and the randonneur) that continue to exceed expectations. 
>
> It’s also instructive to hear about the many bikes you tried and passed 
> on. For those of us who are years behind you in our journey it’s 
> instructive to hear that they aren’t all gonna be keepers. 
>
> Dustin in VA
>
> On Oct 6, 2024, at 9:40 AM, ascpgh  wrote:
>
> Fit was what brought me to dial Grant at RBW. I have your same physiology 
> and production bikes have never been optimal for me. Reaching an effective 
> seated pedaling position and not having a huge drop or reach to the bars 
> felt like a crusade and before the internet you had to carefully consider 
> your sources. I thought I was calling to order a custom frame. 
>
>
> I really liked and had several Bridgestones, an RB-1, an MB-Ø and an 
> X0-2. I sized those based on the option to try stock sizes at the shop 
> where I worked, the big difference was that each of the three had pretty 
> separate use riding intentions. Optimizing the fine adjustments of fit 
> didn't always happen. I sold the MB-Ø because its frame was too light for 
> the steep climbs of my region's trails. 
>
> The XO-2 I bought for a silly low price from Bridgestone's garage sale 
> clearance and went on permanent loan after realizing that the top tube fit 
> was a good idea but in this format of bike it hobbled the riding position 
> for my legs. The 26" wheels and level top tube required that I used a 
> really long setback seat post and periscope-like stem to get myself on the 
> bike effectively as regarding pedaling. I suffered a number of what are now 
> "gravel" or "bikepacking" routes with this bike. 
>
> My most miles were on the RB-1 but an opportunity to ride across the 
> country with some folks made me focus on this bike's fit, bringing what I'd 
> figured out from the others. I needed a medium stout tube set for my frame 
> size and climbing, more so if carrying a load. The 700C level top tube 
> format made stems less of an oddity for my fit but it still just wasn't 
> right. 
>
> Grant sold me on the Rambouillet for both fit and use. My cross country 
> ride group was riding light, credit card camping in cheap motels and eating 
> local along the way. He described the bike as perfect for my fit and this 
> sort of riding, day in and day out. The secret sauce or prioritizing of 
> geometry features of Riv models has sparked conversations here and 
> otherwise for ye

[RBW] Question for Nitto 33R (Big Back Rack, Large) havers

[Bob]

Who here regularly uses the Nitto 33R (i.e. RBW's Big Back Rack, Large) to 
carry panniers? How do you ensure retention of the hook at the bottom of 
the rack? (By "hook" here I mean the single hook on a bungee or similar 
elastic cord that prevents the pannier from bouncing up and off the rack 
rails. Swift panniers have them, as do Arkel; Ortlieb and Carradice have a 
different lower attachment.)

I'm pretty sure older versions of the rack had a loop at the bottom where 
one could secure the pannier's hook, and the current 32R (Big Back Rack, 
Medium) still has such a loop.

Thank you.

--
Bob

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[RBW] Re: Question for Nitto 33R (Big Back Rack, Large) havers

[Bob]

John, I do exactly that with a set of Tubus Duos on the front of one bike. 
My original set of Duos had a metal loop, attached to the bottom of each 
rack, into which the pannier's hook fit. That set of Duos was totaled when 
I was hit by a car. My current set of Duos has no such loops, so I use 
small P-clamps much as you describe. Does the job. Looks hideous. Planning 
to replace the Duos with a pair of Nitto/Blue Lug S-Racks 
(https://global.bluelug.com/catalog/product/view/id/31396/s/nitto-s-rack/) 
at some point.

On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 12:26:35 PM UTC-6 John Bokman wrote:

> Bob, i don't have a Nitto rack such as yours but instead use a Tubus rear 
> rack. I also use a Tubus front rack, which does not have a hook-catcher for 
> my bungee-style pannier hook. What I have done is use a small hose clamp on 
> the bottom strut of the rack, so when the hook is around the strut, it 
> doesn't bounce backward. You could install two small clamps on either side 
> of where you want the hook to sit so it would have a designated "slot" in 
> which to nest.
>
> John
>
> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 9:54:54 AM UTC-7 rcook...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Who here regularly uses the Nitto 33R (i.e. RBW's Big Back Rack, Large) 
>> to carry panniers? How do you ensure retention of the hook at the bottom of 
>> the rack? (By "hook" here I mean the single hook on a bungee or similar 
>> elastic cord that prevents the pannier from bouncing up and off the rack 
>> rails. Swift panniers have them, as do Arkel; Ortlieb and Carradice have a 
>> different lower attachment.)
>>
>> I'm pretty sure older versions of the rack had a loop at the bottom where 
>> one could secure the pannier's hook, and the current 32R (Big Back Rack, 
>> Medium) still has such a loop.
>>
>> Thank you.
>>
>> --
>> Bob
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tics in the bars at the stem clamp - help

[Chris Halasz]

Leah 

I'm not saying you could have been, I'm wondering if you are aware that you 
*are* a first class bonafide Systems Engineer, what with the focused and 
detailed fault tree analysis 
 and fish-bone diagram 
 you're constructing. 

(About the possibility of your being a card-carrying obsessive compulsive 
cyclist, nothing unique about that here on this list). 

Enjoying every tic of this discussion, 

Chris 

On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 12:19:41 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> I don’t remember if I updated here…I had a Nitto Tallux 12 cm stem on my 
> bike that I pulled this weekend. I had a tall Nitto 280 mm 10 cm stem that 
> I wasn’t using, so in order to eliminate one thing at a time and 
> reevaluate, that’s the plan. I rode 6 miles today and nothing. Everything 
> feels solid, no noise. The bars are up too high, though. I want to lower 
> them but that stem is slammed all the way in the head tube and can’t go 
> lower. Because they are higher and closer than my normal setup, I can’t 
> yank on them and put my weight on them like I normally do. So they might be 
> behaving because they are not under duress. 
>
> Also of note. I would get a now-and-then vibration that sounded like maybe 
> my metal front fender. It would happen at high speeds, which is usually 
> hammering on a club ride. That was non-existent today. Wondering if it’s 
> not the fender and instead something in that head tube/stem interface…
>
> I really hate this.
> Leah 
>
> On Oct 7, 2024, at 2:55 PM, Brian Campbell  wrote:
>
> Given that the issue was solved by lubricating the bars previously (as 
> mentioned above ) I would try a bar swap first. If you have bars that 
> are 25.4 and have  no sleeve on hand that are not being used they would be 
> my first choice.
>
>
> If not these are an inexpensive way to diagnose the issue and it seems you 
> are good with swapping bars on your own.
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Handlebar-Handlebars-Replacement-Component-Aluminum/dp/B0CSMTRRGF/ref=sr_1_24?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Gw9_I8wrRr8dt9fq-LybtGUhzpjQ77_hjcQ87kbcXteYmQ0rXAWD5AHf8MLTZOdNNKbNJidDVMEgzd6f9pUhb1Lgu10Gwkdc6-oHIyuz9VIYGGggknQvBjBVt84Cmt3TtFfFVNW5viPWW3B07zPRqBwYAdLhEzpsN4MDY3qda-6Xf1CjPJebRrytcS0BMn54xuf8Ls7msIbzY6u7VjaVAAtrFnKz46KT_Wqsn8T4PcmTNoldGOa_wYanGPDNg9PGI4dTd82Tz9PvRtArKDHtTfEZ23NoLW_8wjWHGpIAwDs.TgSuzlhrtFRpmoiL2BVPW9j9kvJu7GTlSg_f7Hrlnmw&dib_tag=se&keywords=25.4%2Bsilver%2Bhandle%2Bbar&qid=1728321716&sr=8-24&th=1&psc=1
>
> Good luck!
> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 12:11:22 PM UTC-4 Mathias Steiner wrote:
>
>> On the facts & observations side, we now have one clicking handlebar 
>> sleeve, and two (maybe three?) instances of clicking being resolved by 
>> cleaning, greasing, and reinstalling the stem into the steerer tube.
>>
>> We've had zero reports of clicking resolved by headset work, though it's 
>> a reasonable possibility. 
>>
>> I'd exhaust the first two possiblities before going to the trouble of 
>> squaring and facing a head tube that may or may not need it. 
>> I vote "not need" because it was fine for years. 
>>
>> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 11:14:56 AM UTC-4 bmfo...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> I recently had a tick develop out of the blue on my 1989 schwinn probe 
>>> commuter. Nitto stem with the KT bars. I uninstalled and reinstalled the 
>>> stem and it fixed it. I think the wedge may have been slightly loose and 
>>> got bound up within the fork steerer.
>>>
>>> Little noises like that drive me nuts so i was happy to have it easily 
>>> resolved. Good luck Leah! 
>>>
>>> Brian
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 9:58:56 AM UTC-5 mwill...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Rivendell is very clear on their website as to why they don’t face and 
 chase frames. They state that they will do it if asked for $30. I’ve done 
 my own bottom bracket shells on two of my bikes that use a cup and cone 
 style bottom bracket, but I’ve been fortunate enough to not have an issue 
 with head tubes. Best wishes.

 Mike

 On Oct 7, 2024, at 4:16 AM, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW 
 Owners Bunch  wrote:

 Leah


 Based on the history of the 3 Platys, facing the HT on the one from 
 Vegas (assuming this is the ticing one) may be a good idea based on what 
 Peter White mentioned. 

 You may want to replace the headset also since they will drive out the 
 existing fixed cups to do the facing and your local shop apparently 
 mangled  the adjustable cup.  The original headset in your other 2 Platys 
 appear to work ok if the HT faced, so buying a new one should work.

 The other unknown is the alignment of the steerer tube in the fork 
 crown, as Peter pointed out   This could be checked/measured for 
 perpendicularity when they do the facing since the fork & steerer tube 
 will 
 be out of the frame and can easily be

Re: [RBW] Re: Tics in the bars at the stem clamp - help

['John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Leah

Based on the history of the 3 Platys, facing the HT on the one from Vegas 
(assuming this is the ticing one) may be a good idea based on what Peter 
White mentioned. 

You may want to replace the headset also since they will drive out the 
existing fixed cups to do the facing and your local shop apparently 
mangled  the adjustable cup.  The original headset in your other 2 Platys 
appear to work ok if the HT faced, so buying a new one should work.

The other unknown is the alignment of the steerer tube in the fork crown, 
as Peter pointed out   This could be checked/measured for perpendicularity 
when they do the facing since the fork & steerer tube will be out of the 
frame and can easily be checked.   Ask the list members how to measure the 
alignment of the steerer tube in the fork crown and what to do if it is not 
square.

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 10:54:58 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> I guess we’ll never know. It came from Riv, and it was their sample for 
> their 1st gen Platypuses. It was assembled at a Vegas shop that was heavily 
> racing/roadbike oriented. The mechanic is no longer there and I don’t 
> remember if those were the days when Riv was still doing frame prep. This 
> tic on the stem is new and I’ve had the bike nearing 4 years. Can it show 
> up as an issue 4 years later?
>
> The 2nd Platy came from Analog, and since someone posted that Analog DOES 
> do frame prep, I’ll likely never worry about that one. The newest purple 
> Platy was done here, and to make the Ignite Components stuff work they had 
> to “face the bottom bracket” and it was a real challenge to get those 
> cranks and bottom bracket to work on my frame. Maybe they went ahead and 
> faced the head tube while they were at it? I don’t know!
>
>
> On Oct 6, 2024, at 10:29 PM, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW Owners 
> Bunch  wrote:
>
> Garth stated; " The head tube facing is supposed to be at the time of 
> manufacture...".   I think we all agree, but I'm not sure if it isn't done, 
> it's 'unscrupulous'.  I think most mass produced frames are faced/chased by 
> the manufacturer.
>
>
> What I think is poor quality,  is whoever assembled Leah's Platy (RBW??) 
> may not have faced the HT.  It's a shame, since it is 10 minute operation 
> if done on a bare frame, but probably a 1 hour job after the frame is 
> assembled, with removing the stem, disconnecting cables, remove the fixed 
> cups and then put it all back together.
>
> Leah might want to ask whoever assembled it, if the HT was faced, along 
> with the BB shell.  Maybe it was.   If it was, then it could be removed 
> from being a cause.
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 7:53:55 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>
>> The head tube facing is supposed to be at the time of manufacture, along 
>> with the reaming and tapping of the threads. If the factory can't 
>> comprehend it, then it's up to the retailer to do this at no additional 
>> charge. I'm surprised how it's being accepted as normal, acceptable or even 
>> expected. That work is part of what you're paying for with a new frame. 
>> Charging extra would be, to me, unscrupulous. And that's that. 
>>
>> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 2:40:25 PM UTC-4 Matti wrote:
>>
>>> I have a Sam Hillborne and noticed a headset problem when climbing and 
>>> applying upper body force to the bars... It was a distinct fore and aft 
>>> movement that could be felt (but not heard) and it was hard to duplicate 
>>> the sensation when bike was static on the floor while rocking the bike back 
>>> and forth with front brake applied.  I tried multiple times to adjust the 
>>> headset, with no luck.  I finally brought the bike into a shop and they 
>>> adjusted the headset, telling me it was loose.  So far it seems the problem 
>>> is fixed, but if it comes back, I'll see if the head tube needs 
>>> machining/alignment recommended by Peter White.  I think that process is 
>>> considered standard practice for frame prep in some shops: 
>>> https://analogcycles.com/pages/frame-prep 
>>>
>>> On Saturday, October 5, 2024 at 3:10:26 PM UTC-7 peter...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Leah,

 My wife and I both ride Rivendell frames. She has an Atlantis, and I 
 have a Rambouillet. They both ride wonderfully. The frame geometry is 
 excellent. But they both had the same issues with the steerer 
 tube machining and head tube machining that all Rivendell frames have, 
 except for the custom frames. The ends of the head tube are not exactly 
 perpendicular to the geometric axis of the head tube, and the fork crowns 
 are not precisely machined so that the headset parts don't always line 
 up correctly. Take your bike to an experienced mechanic who has the 
 appropriate tools to machine the head tune and the fork crown so that the 
 headset components are in the correct alignment. Then your bike will 
 really 
 shine.
>

[RBW] Re: For sale Park truing stand + accessories

[Mathias Steiner]

Extra points for the jar with an inch of linseed oil for spoke thread 
preparation.
Does one properly use boiled or raw oil? 

On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 5:19:42 PM UTC-4 Ray Varella wrote:

> [image: IMG_2309.jpeg][image: IMG_2307.jpeg]
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tics in the bars at the stem clamp - help

[Ryan Frahm]

I have to agree with Brendon. Though I think we’ve kinda gone down an 
interesting path of diagnostics. The bike had no issues for years and 
thousands of miles. Makes me not think it is something deeper like a facing 
issue. I would likely do a new headset just because the mechanical mangled 
the other one. 

I had that same described ticking with my Bosco bars. Swapped them for 
Tosco bars (no sleeve) and the ticking was gone. Tried the Bosco on my 
Clem, ticking. Swapped the bars for an Albatross and no ticking. At the 
time, I read several comments of people with the dreaded ticking with 
sleeved bars. I believe I even emailed Riv. I don’t remember if they are 
the ones that told me or I read it elsewhere about using Loctite in the 
sleeve. 

Anyway, it was silent for a short time after the Boeshield treatment. Now, 
I believe it needs some parts clean (then drying overnight ) to get that 
out and then blue Loctite, again drying overnight. Loosening the stem clamp 
or completely removing the bars to do both. Worth a shot I think!

I do feel for you, Leah. That ticking noise could have driven me crazy!
On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 5:47:32 AM UTC-7 brendonoid wrote:

> *"The ends of the head tube are not exactly perpendicular to the geometric 
> axis of the head tube, and the fork crowns are not precisely machined so 
> that the headset parts don't always line up correctly. Take your bike to an 
> experienced mechanic who has the appropriate tools to machine the head tune 
> and the fork crown so that the headset components are in the correct 
> alignment. Then your bike will really shine."*
>
> This needs to be in bold, pinned to the top of the forum somewhere. I love 
> RBW so much but the QC *even* on frames they've 'prepped' in my 
> experience has been woeful.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tics in the bars at the stem clamp - help

[Mathias Steiner]

On the facts & observations side, we now have one clicking handlebar 
sleeve, and two (maybe three?) instances of clicking being resolved by 
cleaning, greasing, and reinstalling the stem into the steerer tube.

We've had zero reports of clicking resolved by headset work, though it's a 
reasonable possibility. 

I'd exhaust the first two possiblities before going to the trouble of 
squaring and facing a head tube that may or may not need it. 
I vote "not need" because it was fine for years. 

On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 11:14:56 AM UTC-4 bmfo...@gmail.com wrote:

> I recently had a tick develop out of the blue on my 1989 schwinn probe 
> commuter. Nitto stem with the KT bars. I uninstalled and reinstalled the 
> stem and it fixed it. I think the wedge may have been slightly loose and 
> got bound up within the fork steerer.
>
> Little noises like that drive me nuts so i was happy to have it easily 
> resolved. Good luck Leah! 
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 9:58:56 AM UTC-5 mwill...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Rivendell is very clear on their website as to why they don’t face and 
>> chase frames. They state that they will do it if asked for $30. I’ve done 
>> my own bottom bracket shells on two of my bikes that use a cup and cone 
>> style bottom bracket, but I’ve been fortunate enough to not have an issue 
>> with head tubes. Best wishes.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> On Oct 7, 2024, at 4:16 AM, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW Owners 
>> Bunch  wrote:
>>
>> Leah
>>
>>
>> Based on the history of the 3 Platys, facing the HT on the one from Vegas 
>> (assuming this is the ticing one) may be a good idea based on what Peter 
>> White mentioned. 
>>
>> You may want to replace the headset also since they will drive out the 
>> existing fixed cups to do the facing and your local shop apparently 
>> mangled  the adjustable cup.  The original headset in your other 2 Platys 
>> appear to work ok if the HT faced, so buying a new one should work.
>>
>> The other unknown is the alignment of the steerer tube in the fork crown, 
>> as Peter pointed out   This could be checked/measured for perpendicularity 
>> when they do the facing since the fork & steerer tube will be out of the 
>> frame and can easily be checked.   Ask the list members how to measure the 
>> alignment of the steerer tube in the fork crown and what to do if it is not 
>> square.
>>
>> John Hawrylak
>> Woodstown NJ
>>
>> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 10:54:58 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I guess we’ll never know. It came from Riv, and it was their sample for 
>>> their 1st gen Platypuses. It was assembled at a Vegas shop that was heavily 
>>> racing/roadbike oriented. The mechanic is no longer there and I don’t 
>>> remember if those were the days when Riv was still doing frame prep. This 
>>> tic on the stem is new and I’ve had the bike nearing 4 years. Can it show 
>>> up as an issue 4 years later?
>>>
>>> The 2nd Platy came from Analog, and since someone posted that Analog 
>>> DOES do frame prep, I’ll likely never worry about that one. The newest 
>>> purple Platy was done here, and to make the Ignite Components stuff work 
>>> they had to “face the bottom bracket” and it was a real challenge to get 
>>> those cranks and bottom bracket to work on my frame. Maybe they went ahead 
>>> and faced the head tube while they were at it? I don’t know!
>>>
>>>
>>> On Oct 6, 2024, at 10:29 PM, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW 
>>> Owners Bunch  wrote:
>>>
>>> Garth stated; " The head tube facing is supposed to be at the time of 
>>> manufacture...".   I think we all agree, but I'm not sure if it isn't done, 
>>> it's 'unscrupulous'.  I think most mass produced frames are faced/chased by 
>>> the manufacturer.
>>>
>>>
>>> What I think is poor quality,  is whoever assembled Leah's Platy (RBW??) 
>>> may not have faced the HT.  It's a shame, since it is 10 minute operation 
>>> if done on a bare frame, but probably a 1 hour job after the frame is 
>>> assembled, with removing the stem, disconnecting cables, remove the fixed 
>>> cups and then put it all back together.
>>>
>>> Leah might want to ask whoever assembled it, if the HT was faced, along 
>>> with the BB shell.  Maybe it was.   If it was, then it could be removed 
>>> from being a cause.
>>>
>>> John Hawrylak
>>> Woodstown NJ
>>>
>>> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 7:53:55 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>>>
 The head tube facing is supposed to be at the time of manufacture, 
 along with the reaming and tapping of the threads. If the factory can't 
 comprehend it, then it's up to the retailer to do this at no additional 
 charge. I'm surprised how it's being accepted as normal, acceptable or 
 even 
 expected. That work is part of what you're paying for with a new frame. 
 Charging extra would be, to me, unscrupulous. And that's that. 

 On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 2:40:25 PM UTC-4 Matti wrote:

> I have a Sam Hillborne and noticed a

[RBW] Re: Mama Platy in need of repair!

[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

My poor, poor RivSister! Ugh, my heart is actually bleeding just 
reading this. Your beautiful Platypus! And you were riding with your cherub 
on the back! I’m SO glad you both are ok. And your Platy will be, too. I 
know it feels desperate (I have cried actual tears in several bike shop 
parking lots) but I think they will be able to get this righted so you and 
your cherubs can be out on the open roads again looking at cool dragons and 
Halloween decorations. 

You are right about noises. I have learned that they MEAN something, and 
it’s my job to find out what - usually enlisting professional help at shops 
or from the good folks on here. I learned this after riding around up and 
down my mountainous city with a very loose headset. Like, very loose. There 
is so much I’m still learning. 

Anyway, please keep writing on here. You are a kindred spirit and a 
delight! 
Leah

On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 11:15:26 AM UTC-4 GirlGangRider wrote:

> My 2.75 year old toddler and I went on a short errand 3.6 miles away from 
> our home. I decided to take the scenic route and enjoy the ride as I 
> pointed and talked to my daughter along the way. We saw a very cool dragon 
> in front of a house alongside some other Halloween decorations. When it was 
> time to go back home, I finally checked the time to see that it was 10:40 
> AM. My husband was at home with our younger 12 month old daughter and he 
> had an online class at 11 AM. There was no way I was going to make it in 
> time for his class so I immediately messaged him and told him I would be a 
> little late. 
>
> I told my toddler, "We need to get home as soon as possible, Mama is going 
> to take a different route than the way we came so we can get home sooner." 
> I rode down a busier street and felt so lucky that I was getting every 
> single green light. My daughter was cheering me on to go faster and the 
> downhill ride made it all that more exciting. Naturally, I wanted to shift 
> my gears to change my cadence. I listened to some weird sound as I shifted 
> once and then twice. In hindsight, I should have immediately stopped trying 
> to shift and ride in the same gear until I got home. Then ask my husband to 
> check out my bike. (If you haven't read Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!'s posts on 
> ticking sounds, I highly recommend it! I have now learned my lesson to 
> always be cautious of sounds on my bike.) 
>
> I shifted a third time and while I was crossing an intersection heard a 
> very loud crack. I tried to pedal and did not feel the usual resistance on 
> my bike. Fortunately, I did not freak out and just slowly glided to a stop 
> with my brakes out of the intersection to safely disembark. I looked down 
> and saw the chain had come off. Originally, I thought that maybe I could 
> put the chain back on. I was wrong. "Mama bike broke?" said my daughter, 
> "Yes, mama bike broke." I video-called my husband that instant and showed 
> him my chain, derailleur and gear hub. His words were, "What the f&*# 
> happened? I have never seen that before!" In my stomach, I felt the biggest 
> pit of remorse and regret. Have I just messed up my beautiful Platy? The 
> bike that I love riding so much! Was it ruined forever?
>
> The Platy was not rideable. It was barely walkable. I was still about 3.1 
> miles away from home. I had a broken bike and a 26 pound toddler. My 
> husband told me to call my brother-in-law. Maybe he could come and pick up 
> my toddler and I could take the bus home. I was only 20 yards from a bus 
> stop. I decided that I would try taking the bus on my own with my toddler 
> and my broken Platy. We waited for the bus and it was time for me to lift 
> my bike (with rack and Yepp seat) onto the bike rack. I tried to pick it up 
> once and it barely got off the ground. Another *hmph* and I could only 
> get the front wheel off the ground. Taking a deep breath and looking at my 
> daughter on the sidewalk, I summoned all the Mama Hulk strength I could 
> muster to get my Platy on the bus bike rack. We rode on the bus till our 
> stop. It took another three tries to get my bike off the bike rack. I knew 
> we would have to take another bus back home. Luckily, this one offered 
> level boarding so I wheeled it inside and asked a friendly bus rider to 
> help me carry it off the bus. 
>
> We made it home. My husband came downstairs and gave me the diagnosis. 
> When I shifted, the derailleur got caught inside the spokes (the derailleur 
> hub had been previously bent somehow and this is why I should never ignore 
> strange noises!). My derailleur was broken in half. A spoke had been bent 
> and broken off. There was a small crack in the frame where the derailleur 
> is attached (we are hopeful it is just the paint). 
>
> I am devastated! I will send updates on the repair as soon as Mama Platy 
> is in working order. 
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tics in the bars at the stem clamp - help

[Mike Rossi]

Rivendell is very clear on their website as to why they don’t face and chase frames. They state that they will do it if asked for $30. I’ve done my own bottom bracket shells on two of my bikes that use a cup and cone style bottom bracket, but I’ve been fortunate enough to not have an issue with head tubes. Best wishes.MikeOn Oct 7, 2024, at 4:16 AM, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW Owners Bunch  wrote:LeahBased on the history of the 3 Platys, facing the HT on the one from Vegas (assuming this is the ticing one) may be a good idea based on what Peter White mentioned. You may want to replace the headset also since they will drive out the existing fixed cups to do the facing and your local shop apparently mangled  the adjustable cup.  The original headset in your other 2 Platys appear to work ok if the HT faced, so buying a new one should work.The other unknown is the alignment of the steerer tube in the fork crown, as Peter pointed out   This could be checked/measured for perpendicularity when they do the facing since the fork & steerer tube will be out of the frame and can easily be checked.   Ask the list members how to measure the alignment of the steerer tube in the fork crown and what to do if it is not square.John HawrylakWoodstown NJOn Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 10:54:58 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:I guess we’ll never know. It came from Riv, and it was their sample for their 1st gen Platypuses. It was assembled at a Vegas shop that was heavily racing/roadbike oriented. The mechanic is no longer there and I don’t remember if those were the days when Riv was still doing frame prep. This tic on the stem is new and I’ve had the bike nearing 4 years. Can it show up as an issue 4 years later?The 2nd Platy came from Analog, and since someone posted that Analog DOES do frame prep, I’ll likely never worry about that one. The newest purple Platy was done here, and to make the Ignite Components stuff work they had to “face the bottom bracket” and it was a real challenge to get those cranks and bottom bracket to work on my frame. Maybe they went ahead and faced the head tube while they were at it? I don’t know!On Oct 6, 2024, at 10:29 PM, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW Owners Bunch  wrote:Garth stated; "

The head tube facing is supposed to be at the time of manufacture...".   I think we all agree, but I'm not sure if it isn't done, it's 'unscrupulous'.  I think most mass produced frames are faced/chased by the manufacturer.What I think is poor quality,  is whoever assembled Leah's Platy (RBW??) may not have faced the HT.  It's a shame, since it is 10 minute operation if done on a bare frame, but probably a 1 hour job after the frame is assembled, with removing the stem, disconnecting cables, remove the fixed cups and then put it all back together.Leah might want to ask whoever assembled it, if the HT was faced, along with the BB shell.  Maybe it was.   If it was, then it could be removed from being a cause.John HawrylakWoodstown NJOn Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 7:53:55 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:The head tube facing is supposed to be at the time of manufacture, along with the reaming and tapping of the threads. If the factory can't comprehend it, then it's up to the retailer to do this at no additional charge. I'm surprised how it's being accepted as normal, acceptable or even expected. That work is part of what you're paying for with a new frame. Charging extra would be, to me, unscrupulous. And that's that. On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 2:40:25 PM UTC-4 Matti wrote:I have a Sam Hillborne and noticed a headset problem when climbing and applying upper body force to the bars... It was a distinct fore and aft movement that could be felt (but not heard) and it was hard to duplicate the sensation when bike was static on the floor while rocking the bike back and forth with front brake applied.  I tried multiple times to adjust the headset, with no luck.  I finally brought the bike into a shop and they adjusted the headset, telling me it was loose.  So far it seems the problem is fixed, but if it comes back, I'll see if the head tube needs machining/alignment recommended by Peter White.  I think that process is considered standard practice for frame prep in some shops: https://analogcycles.com/pages/frame-prep On Saturday, October 5, 2024 at 3:10:26 PM UTC-7 peter...@gmail.com wrote:Leah,My wife and I both ride Rivendell frames. She has an Atlantis, and I have a Rambouillet. They both ride wonderfully. The frame geometry is excellent. But they both had the same issues with the steerer tube machining and head tube machining that all Rivendell frames have, except for the custom frames. The ends of the head tube are not exactly perpendicular to the geometric axis of the head tube, and the fork crowns are not precisely machined so that the headset parts don't always line up correctly. Take your bike to an experienced mechanic who has the appropriate tools to machine the hea

Re: [RBW] Orthos

[Wesley]

Love Ron's Orthos - looking to buy some if anyone has any laying around 
that they are willing to part with!

On Friday, September 20, 2024 at 9:20:43 PM UTC-6 drew.jo...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> I love the downtube shifters Brent!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 20, 2024, at 6:16 PM, Brent Knepper  wrote:
>
> +1 on how nice that silverSammer looks! excellent monochrome skills
>
>
> +1 also on orthos with a single-bolt 25.4 stem not slipping ◡̈ mine are on 
> a 130 ITM stem, I bunnyhop up curbs and noodle around on rooty trails 
> (although these bars noodle around on any surface) without a slip- no 
> torque wrench just the usual 6mm allen key tightening amount I'd do on any 
> nitto stem
>
> 
>
>
> -Brent in N(oodle)Y
>
> On Friday, September 20, 2024 at 6:35:31 PM UTC-4 Mackenzy Albright wrote:
>
>> Just to re-comment- because I like looking at this bike: in all honestly 
>> I haven't given much attention to Ortho bars in the past as I find them a 
>> bit overwhelming on most builds in terms of a visual focus as they are so 
>> large. In this case I feel as if they are made for the bike and absolutely 
>> perfect proportionally and fit the build to a T. Have you had a chance to 
>> take it for a ride? 
>>
>> On Friday, September 20, 2024 at 2:30:34 PM UTC-7 Danny wrote:
>>
>>> Great looking build!
>>>
>>> On Friday, September 20, 2024 at 3:11:00 PM UTC-5 drew.jo...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 [image: image0.jpeg][image: image1.jpeg][image: image2.jpeg]
 Sent from my iPhone

 On Sep 14, 2024, at 10:20 AM, Eliot Balogh  wrote:

 

 Wow. What a stunning build. 

 I’m rebuilding a Ram as a roadish bike and this is making me jealous 
 lol. 

 Eliot

 On Sat, Sep 14, 2024 at 6:33 AM Andrew Joseph  
 wrote:

> Thank you both!
>
> Truly appreciate the responses.  
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 14, 2024, at 6:35 AM, David Ross  wrote:
>
> 
>
> I’d also add that the guy who designed the Orthos uses a 25.4 single 
> bolt stem on the Orthos even though they are 26mm. I think he actually 
> designed them to work this way. Personally, I don’t know enough about 
> engineering or metallurgy to know if this is a good or bad idea, so 
> please 
> don’t think I’m advising you to do this. 
>
> On Fri, Sep 13, 2024 at 5:05 PM Andrew Joseph  
> wrote:
>
>> Bars slippage reports came in at an interesting point for me.  
>>
>> What was the consensus on getting them to stay put?  
>>
>> The Sam rebuild is almost there.  Orthos will be angle down slightly 
>> more, bar tape and need longer dynamo wires for the Pass and Stow….
>>
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>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Tics in the bars at the stem clamp - help

[Brian Forsee]

I recently had a tick develop out of the blue on my 1989 schwinn probe 
commuter. Nitto stem with the KT bars. I uninstalled and reinstalled the 
stem and it fixed it. I think the wedge may have been slightly loose and 
got bound up within the fork steerer.

Little noises like that drive me nuts so i was happy to have it easily 
resolved. Good luck Leah! 

Brian



On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 9:58:56 AM UTC-5 mwill...@gmail.com wrote:

> Rivendell is very clear on their website as to why they don’t face and 
> chase frames. They state that they will do it if asked for $30. I’ve done 
> my own bottom bracket shells on two of my bikes that use a cup and cone 
> style bottom bracket, but I’ve been fortunate enough to not have an issue 
> with head tubes. Best wishes.
>
> Mike
>
> On Oct 7, 2024, at 4:16 AM, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW Owners 
> Bunch  wrote:
>
> Leah
>
>
> Based on the history of the 3 Platys, facing the HT on the one from Vegas 
> (assuming this is the ticing one) may be a good idea based on what Peter 
> White mentioned. 
>
> You may want to replace the headset also since they will drive out the 
> existing fixed cups to do the facing and your local shop apparently 
> mangled  the adjustable cup.  The original headset in your other 2 Platys 
> appear to work ok if the HT faced, so buying a new one should work.
>
> The other unknown is the alignment of the steerer tube in the fork crown, 
> as Peter pointed out   This could be checked/measured for perpendicularity 
> when they do the facing since the fork & steerer tube will be out of the 
> frame and can easily be checked.   Ask the list members how to measure the 
> alignment of the steerer tube in the fork crown and what to do if it is not 
> square.
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 10:54:58 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> I guess we’ll never know. It came from Riv, and it was their sample for 
>> their 1st gen Platypuses. It was assembled at a Vegas shop that was heavily 
>> racing/roadbike oriented. The mechanic is no longer there and I don’t 
>> remember if those were the days when Riv was still doing frame prep. This 
>> tic on the stem is new and I’ve had the bike nearing 4 years. Can it show 
>> up as an issue 4 years later?
>>
>> The 2nd Platy came from Analog, and since someone posted that Analog DOES 
>> do frame prep, I’ll likely never worry about that one. The newest purple 
>> Platy was done here, and to make the Ignite Components stuff work they had 
>> to “face the bottom bracket” and it was a real challenge to get those 
>> cranks and bottom bracket to work on my frame. Maybe they went ahead and 
>> faced the head tube while they were at it? I don’t know!
>>
>>
>> On Oct 6, 2024, at 10:29 PM, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW Owners 
>> Bunch  wrote:
>>
>> Garth stated; " The head tube facing is supposed to be at the time of 
>> manufacture...".   I think we all agree, but I'm not sure if it isn't done, 
>> it's 'unscrupulous'.  I think most mass produced frames are faced/chased by 
>> the manufacturer.
>>
>>
>> What I think is poor quality,  is whoever assembled Leah's Platy (RBW??) 
>> may not have faced the HT.  It's a shame, since it is 10 minute operation 
>> if done on a bare frame, but probably a 1 hour job after the frame is 
>> assembled, with removing the stem, disconnecting cables, remove the fixed 
>> cups and then put it all back together.
>>
>> Leah might want to ask whoever assembled it, if the HT was faced, along 
>> with the BB shell.  Maybe it was.   If it was, then it could be removed 
>> from being a cause.
>>
>> John Hawrylak
>> Woodstown NJ
>>
>> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 7:53:55 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>>
>>> The head tube facing is supposed to be at the time of manufacture, along 
>>> with the reaming and tapping of the threads. If the factory can't 
>>> comprehend it, then it's up to the retailer to do this at no additional 
>>> charge. I'm surprised how it's being accepted as normal, acceptable or even 
>>> expected. That work is part of what you're paying for with a new frame. 
>>> Charging extra would be, to me, unscrupulous. And that's that. 
>>>
>>> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 2:40:25 PM UTC-4 Matti wrote:
>>>
 I have a Sam Hillborne and noticed a headset problem when climbing and 
 applying upper body force to the bars... It was a distinct fore and aft 
 movement that could be felt (but not heard) and it was hard to duplicate 
 the sensation when bike was static on the floor while rocking the bike 
 back 
 and forth with front brake applied.  I tried multiple times to adjust the 
 headset, with no luck.  I finally brought the bike into a shop and they 
 adjusted the headset, telling me it was loose.  So far it seems the 
 problem 
 is fixed, but if it comes back, I'll see if the head tube needs 
 machining/alignment recommended by Peter White.  I think that process is 
 cons

[RBW] Mama Platy in need of repair!

[st nick]

I just remembered another incident that broke a rear derailer and that was 
caused by a too short chain.
The bike was in the big ring on the crank probably a 46 tooth ring.
I think the rear cassette had a 34t big cog.
I had reused a too short chain and should have known better and sized the chain 
before riding the bike.
Riding in the big ring on the crank I shifted into the big 34 T on the back and 
it was too much for the derailer stretching it way passed where the cage should 
go and broke it into two pieces.
Another lesson learned...make sure your chain is sized to the proper length for 
your bikes drive train.
Safe riding,
Paul in Dallas
box_liam on Instagram 

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Re: [RBW] Re: First post - several questions (pbh/height, 650b vs 700, chainstay, etc)

[exliontamer]

I have two 650 bikes in the house. I have an old Trek 510 that I did a 650b 
conversion on that has Velocity A23s. My wife has a Platypus with Velocity 
Quills. Both are fantastic rims imo (the Quills in particular). As for the 
stem length thing, I've heard plenty of others disagree, but I have noticed 
it affecting handling in different ways. Especially depending on the bike, 
bars, and its use. I also don't think drastically decreasing stem length is 
an ideal solution for making a too long top tube fit better if you're 
planning on swapping between drops and swept back bars. Particularly if you 
are short torso/long limbed. 
On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 11:54:50 AM UTC-5 peter...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thank you everyone for your beautiful and very helpful responses. 
> Wonderful to be in a community... (referring to a bit from what Andy said - 
> I did reach out to Riv, and the problem is I am too indecisive and I really 
> feel quite guilty asking too many questions and then get lost in my 
> no-decision cloud..not that I don't feel guilty here, but I will less 
> guilty ..hoping each discussion helps someone else too..)
>
> @Patrick - thanks for that guidance. Are the top tubes between your Riv vs 
> other drop bar bikes very similar..? I feel the newer Riv's are less and 
> less designed for drop bars, the ones that are in my pbh have pretty long 
> tubes.
>
> @Roullumhass - thanks for those insights! Stuck similarly - and with a 
> difference in frame size also changes the wheel size - maybe not a big deal 
> but I've often seen posts of rim-brake 650b's rims and it does seem good 
> ones are harder to come by. By the way, you said "I notice stem length 
> affecting my position on a bike in an adverse way if it gets too short 
> (under 70mm)" - what is the adverse way you meant here? Handling or body 
> position or...?
>
> @Max - thanks for sharing that. I've tried and failed several times to 
> understand (intuitively) what reach signifies - the confusion because I 
> feel the top tupe is how much the upper body needs to reach out to hold the 
> handlebars, then what is reach? and would the STA and HTA be factored in to 
> understand the effect of reach (I mean if two bikes with a similar reach 
> had different angles would the reach feel different - assuming the reach is 
> the same at the handlebar height you need it)
>
> @Jason - I would like to compare my current bike's geometry here but the 
> size suggestions from Riv and the geometry completely throw them off :D 
>
> @Andy - I read your message several times, thanks a lot for sharing your 
> journey...seems like *I am in for a ride. *I have written to Will earlier 
> and think I should get in touch with him again. Every riv-bike description 
> I read on their website, I feel that is the one I should get - always 
> pushing, struggling to decide, if there is a one-bike-for-all for me or 
> mostly I am fooling myself. I have bought bikes in the past with an 
> intended use but it has almost never turned out that way - that pushed me 
> to keep playing it safe. Please do share pictures of your bike if you can :)
>
> peter
>
> Dustin schrieb am Sonntag, 6. Oktober 2024 um 21:41:16 UTC+5:30:
>
>> Great post, Andy. Appreciate you taking the time to write out your 
>> evolution in cycling. I’m encouraged that you have landed on two bikes 
>> (Rambo and the randonneur) that continue to exceed expectations. 
>>
>> It’s also instructive to hear about the many bikes you tried and passed 
>> on. For those of us who are years behind you in our journey it’s 
>> instructive to hear that they aren’t all gonna be keepers. 
>>
>> Dustin in VA
>>
>> On Oct 6, 2024, at 9:40 AM, ascpgh  wrote:
>>
>> Fit was what brought me to dial Grant at RBW. I have your same 
>> physiology and production bikes have never been optimal for me. Reaching an 
>> effective seated pedaling position and not having a huge drop or reach to 
>> the bars felt like a crusade and before the internet you had to carefully 
>> consider your sources. I thought I was calling to order a custom frame. 
>>
>>
>> I really liked and had several Bridgestones, an RB-1, an MB-Ø and an 
>> X0-2. I sized those based on the option to try stock sizes at the shop 
>> where I worked, the big difference was that each of the three had pretty 
>> separate use riding intentions. Optimizing the fine adjustments of fit 
>> didn't always happen. I sold the MB-Ø because its frame was too light 
>> for the steep climbs of my region's trails. 
>>
>> The XO-2 I bought for a silly low price from Bridgestone's garage sale 
>> clearance and went on permanent loan after realizing that the top tube fit 
>> was a good idea but in this format of bike it hobbled the riding position 
>> for my legs. The 26" wheels and level top tube required that I used a 
>> really long setback seat post and periscope-like stem to get myself on the 
>> bike effectively as regarding pedaling. I suffered a number of what are now 
>> "gravel" or

[RBW] Re: Question for Nitto 33R (Big Back Rack, Large) havers

[John Bokman]

Bob, i don't have a Nitto rack such as yours but instead use a Tubus rear 
rack. I also use a Tubus front rack, which does not have a hook-catcher for 
my bungee-style pannier hook. What I have done is use a small hose clamp on 
the bottom strut of the rack, so when the hook is around the strut, it 
doesn't bounce backward. You could install two small clamps on either side 
of where you want the hook to sit so it would have a designated "slot" in 
which to nest.

John

On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 9:54:54 AM UTC-7 rcook...@gmail.com wrote:

> Who here regularly uses the Nitto 33R (i.e. RBW's Big Back Rack, Large) to 
> carry panniers? How do you ensure retention of the hook at the bottom of 
> the rack? (By "hook" here I mean the single hook on a bungee or similar 
> elastic cord that prevents the pannier from bouncing up and off the rack 
> rails. Swift panniers have them, as do Arkel; Ortlieb and Carradice have a 
> different lower attachment.)
>
> I'm pretty sure older versions of the rack had a loop at the bottom where 
> one could secure the pannier's hook, and the current 32R (Big Back Rack, 
> Medium) still has such a loop.
>
> Thank you.
>
> --
> Bob
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Mama Platy in need of repair!

[Liz Tilton]

I’m so proud of you for getting yourself out of that mess! For thinking, for figuring out, for hauling, for lifting, for making your bus transfers, and for doing it all while hanging on to your toddler! Dang well done. Liz in CincinnatiSent with delight from my iPadOn Oct 7, 2024, at 12:21 PM, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!  wrote:My poor, poor RivSister! Ugh, my heart is actually bleeding just reading this. Your beautiful Platypus! And you were riding with your cherub on the back! I’m SO glad you both are ok. And your Platy will be, too. I know it feels desperate (I have cried actual tears in several bike shop parking lots) but I think they will be able to get this righted so you and your cherubs can be out on the open roads again looking at cool dragons and Halloween decorations. You are right about noises. I have learned that they MEAN something, and it’s my job to find out what - usually enlisting professional help at shops or from the good folks on here. I learned this after riding around up and down my mountainous city with a very loose headset. Like, very loose. There is so much I’m still learning. Anyway, please keep writing on here. You are a kindred spirit and a delight! LeahOn Monday, October 7, 2024 at 11:15:26 AM UTC-4 GirlGangRider wrote:My 2.75 year old toddler and I went on a short errand 3.6 miles 
away from our home. I decided to take the scenic route and enjoy the 
ride as I pointed and talked to my daughter along the way. We saw a very
 cool dragon in front of a house alongside some other Halloween 
decorations. When it was time to go back home, I finally checked the 
time to see that it was 10:40 AM. My husband was at home with our 
younger 12 month old daughter and he had an online class at 11 AM. There
 was no way I was going to make it in time for his class so I 
immediately messaged him and told him I would be a little late. I
 told my toddler, "We need to get home as soon as possible, Mama is 
going to take a different route than the way we came so we can get home 
sooner." I rode down a busier street and felt so lucky that I was 
getting every single green light. My daughter was cheering me on to go 
faster and the downhill ride made it all that more exciting. Naturally, I
 wanted to shift my gears to change my cadence. I listened to some weird
 sound as I shifted once and then twice. In hindsight, I should have 
immediately stopped trying to shift and ride in the same gear until I 
got home. Then ask my husband to check out my bike. (If you haven't read
 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!'s posts on ticking sounds, I highly recommend 
it! I have now learned my lesson to always be cautious of sounds on my 
bike.) I shifted a third time and while I 
was crossing an intersection heard a very loud crack. I tried to pedal 
and did not feel the usual resistance on my bike. Fortunately, I did not
 freak out and just slowly glided to a stop with my brakes out of the 
intersection to safely disembark. I looked down and saw the chain had 
come off. Originally, I thought that maybe I could put the chain back 
on. I was wrong. "Mama bike broke?" said my daughter, "Yes, mama bike broke."  I video-called my husband that instant and showed him my
 chain, derailleur and gear hub. His words were, "What the f&*# 
happened? I have never seen that before!" In my stomach, I felt the 
biggest pit of remorse and regret. Have I just messed up my beautiful 
Platy? The bike that I love riding so much! Was it ruined forever?The
 Platy was not rideable. It was barely walkable. I was still about 3.1 
miles away from home. I had a broken bike and a 26 pound toddler. My 
husband told me to call my brother-in-law. Maybe he could come and pick 
up my toddler and I could take the bus home. I was only 20 yards from a 
bus stop. I decided that I would try taking the bus on my own with my 
toddler and my broken Platy. We waited for the bus and it was time for 
me to lift my bike (with rack and Yepp seat) onto the bike rack. I tried
 to pick it up once and it barely got off the ground. Another hmph and I
 could only get the front wheel off the ground. Taking a deep breath and
 looking at my daughter on the sidewalk, I summoned all the Mama Hulk 
strength I could muster to get my Platy on the bus bike rack. We rode on
 the bus till our stop. It took another three tries to get my bike off 
the bike rack. I knew we would have to take another bus back home. 
Luckily, this one offered level boarding so I wheeled it inside and 
asked a friendly bus rider to help me carry it off the bus. We
 made it home. My husband came downstairs and gave me the diagnosis. 
When I shifted, the derailleur got caught inside the spokes (the 
derailleur hub had been
 previously bent somehow and this is why I should never ignore strange 
noises!). My derailleur was broken in half. A spoke had been bent and 
broken off. There was a small crack in the frame where the derailleur is
 attached (we are hopeful it is just the paint). I am devastated! I will s

Re: [RBW] Re: Tics in the bars at the stem clamp - help

[Brian Campbell]

Given that the issue was solved by lubricating the bars previously (as 
mentioned above ) I would try a bar swap first. If you have bars that 
are 25.4 and have  no sleeve on hand that are not being used they would be 
my first choice.

If not these are an inexpensive way to diagnose the issue and it seems you 
are good with swapping bars on your own.

https://www.amazon.com/Handlebar-Handlebars-Replacement-Component-Aluminum/dp/B0CSMTRRGF/ref=sr_1_24?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Gw9_I8wrRr8dt9fq-LybtGUhzpjQ77_hjcQ87kbcXteYmQ0rXAWD5AHf8MLTZOdNNKbNJidDVMEgzd6f9pUhb1Lgu10Gwkdc6-oHIyuz9VIYGGggknQvBjBVt84Cmt3TtFfFVNW5viPWW3B07zPRqBwYAdLhEzpsN4MDY3qda-6Xf1CjPJebRrytcS0BMn54xuf8Ls7msIbzY6u7VjaVAAtrFnKz46KT_Wqsn8T4PcmTNoldGOa_wYanGPDNg9PGI4dTd82Tz9PvRtArKDHtTfEZ23NoLW_8wjWHGpIAwDs.TgSuzlhrtFRpmoiL2BVPW9j9kvJu7GTlSg_f7Hrlnmw&dib_tag=se&keywords=25.4%2Bsilver%2Bhandle%2Bbar&qid=1728321716&sr=8-24&th=1&psc=1

Good luck!
On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 12:11:22 PM UTC-4 Mathias Steiner wrote:

> On the facts & observations side, we now have one clicking handlebar 
> sleeve, and two (maybe three?) instances of clicking being resolved by 
> cleaning, greasing, and reinstalling the stem into the steerer tube.
>
> We've had zero reports of clicking resolved by headset work, though it's a 
> reasonable possibility. 
>
> I'd exhaust the first two possiblities before going to the trouble of 
> squaring and facing a head tube that may or may not need it. 
> I vote "not need" because it was fine for years. 
>
> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 11:14:56 AM UTC-4 bmfo...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I recently had a tick develop out of the blue on my 1989 schwinn probe 
>> commuter. Nitto stem with the KT bars. I uninstalled and reinstalled the 
>> stem and it fixed it. I think the wedge may have been slightly loose and 
>> got bound up within the fork steerer.
>>
>> Little noises like that drive me nuts so i was happy to have it easily 
>> resolved. Good luck Leah! 
>>
>> Brian
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 9:58:56 AM UTC-5 mwill...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Rivendell is very clear on their website as to why they don’t face and 
>>> chase frames. They state that they will do it if asked for $30. I’ve done 
>>> my own bottom bracket shells on two of my bikes that use a cup and cone 
>>> style bottom bracket, but I’ve been fortunate enough to not have an issue 
>>> with head tubes. Best wishes.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> On Oct 7, 2024, at 4:16 AM, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW Owners 
>>> Bunch  wrote:
>>>
>>> Leah
>>>
>>>
>>> Based on the history of the 3 Platys, facing the HT on the one from 
>>> Vegas (assuming this is the ticing one) may be a good idea based on what 
>>> Peter White mentioned. 
>>>
>>> You may want to replace the headset also since they will drive out the 
>>> existing fixed cups to do the facing and your local shop apparently 
>>> mangled  the adjustable cup.  The original headset in your other 2 Platys 
>>> appear to work ok if the HT faced, so buying a new one should work.
>>>
>>> The other unknown is the alignment of the steerer tube in the fork 
>>> crown, as Peter pointed out   This could be checked/measured for 
>>> perpendicularity when they do the facing since the fork & steerer tube will 
>>> be out of the frame and can easily be checked.   Ask the list members how 
>>> to measure the alignment of the steerer tube in the fork crown and what to 
>>> do if it is not square.
>>>
>>> John Hawrylak
>>> Woodstown NJ
>>>
>>> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 10:54:58 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I guess we’ll never know. It came from Riv, and it was their sample for 
 their 1st gen Platypuses. It was assembled at a Vegas shop that was 
 heavily 
 racing/roadbike oriented. The mechanic is no longer there and I don’t 
 remember if those were the days when Riv was still doing frame prep. This 
 tic on the stem is new and I’ve had the bike nearing 4 years. Can it show 
 up as an issue 4 years later?

 The 2nd Platy came from Analog, and since someone posted that Analog 
 DOES do frame prep, I’ll likely never worry about that one. The newest 
 purple Platy was done here, and to make the Ignite Components stuff work 
 they had to “face the bottom bracket” and it was a real challenge to get 
 those cranks and bottom bracket to work on my frame. Maybe they went ahead 
 and faced the head tube while they were at it? I don’t know!


 On Oct 6, 2024, at 10:29 PM, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW 
 Owners Bunch  wrote:

 Garth stated; " The head tube facing is supposed to be at the time of 
 manufacture...".   I think we all agree, but I'm not sure if it isn't 
 done, 
 it's 'unscrupulous'.  I think most mass produced frames are faced/chased 
 by 
 the manufacturer.


 What I think is poor quality,  is whoever assembled Leah's Platy 
 (RBW??) may not have faced the HT.  It's a shame, s

Re: [RBW] Re: First post - several questions (pbh/height, 650b vs 700, chainstay, etc)

[Owen Sindler]

Hi
I'm new to the group. I bought a Homer last year. My contact at Rob was
Roman who guided me to the correct frame size. He also supplied awesome
customer service answering my many component questions. What he couldn't do
was determine my crank length, handle bar width, how the Homer geometry
would mix with those and my reach, etc.  It pays to get a fitting before
you buy a bike. A fit can be expensive, but a work around frame is a
headache 😔. I know.
That's my 2 cents.

On Mon, Oct 7, 2024, 12:54 Peter Fray  wrote:

> Thank you everyone for your beautiful and very helpful responses.
> Wonderful to be in a community... (referring to a bit from what Andy said -
> I did reach out to Riv, and the problem is I am too indecisive and I really
> feel quite guilty asking too many questions and then get lost in my
> no-decision cloud..not that I don't feel guilty here, but I will less
> guilty ..hoping each discussion helps someone else too..)
>
> @Patrick - thanks for that guidance. Are the top tubes between your Riv vs
> other drop bar bikes very similar..? I feel the newer Riv's are less and
> less designed for drop bars, the ones that are in my pbh have pretty long
> tubes.
>
> @Roullumhass - thanks for those insights! Stuck similarly - and with a
> difference in frame size also changes the wheel size - maybe not a big deal
> but I've often seen posts of rim-brake 650b's rims and it does seem good
> ones are harder to come by. By the way, you said "I notice stem length
> affecting my position on a bike in an adverse way if it gets too short
> (under 70mm)" - what is the adverse way you meant here? Handling or body
> position or...?
>
> @Max - thanks for sharing that. I've tried and failed several times to
> understand (intuitively) what reach signifies - the confusion because I
> feel the top tupe is how much the upper body needs to reach out to hold the
> handlebars, then what is reach? and would the STA and HTA be factored in to
> understand the effect of reach (I mean if two bikes with a similar reach
> had different angles would the reach feel different - assuming the reach is
> the same at the handlebar height you need it)
>
> @Jason - I would like to compare my current bike's geometry here but the
> size suggestions from Riv and the geometry completely throw them off :D
>
> @Andy - I read your message several times, thanks a lot for sharing your
> journey...seems like *I am in for a ride. *I have written to Will earlier
> and think I should get in touch with him again. Every riv-bike description
> I read on their website, I feel that is the one I should get - always
> pushing, struggling to decide, if there is a one-bike-for-all for me or
> mostly I am fooling myself. I have bought bikes in the past with an
> intended use but it has almost never turned out that way - that pushed me
> to keep playing it safe. Please do share pictures of your bike if you can :)
>
> peter
>
> Dustin schrieb am Sonntag, 6. Oktober 2024 um 21:41:16 UTC+5:30:
>
>> Great post, Andy. Appreciate you taking the time to write out your
>> evolution in cycling. I’m encouraged that you have landed on two bikes
>> (Rambo and the randonneur) that continue to exceed expectations.
>>
>> It’s also instructive to hear about the many bikes you tried and passed
>> on. For those of us who are years behind you in our journey it’s
>> instructive to hear that they aren’t all gonna be keepers.
>>
>> Dustin in VA
>>
>> On Oct 6, 2024, at 9:40 AM, ascpgh  wrote:
>>
>> Fit was what brought me to dial Grant at RBW. I have your same
>> physiology and production bikes have never been optimal for me. Reaching an
>> effective seated pedaling position and not having a huge drop or reach to
>> the bars felt like a crusade and before the internet you had to carefully
>> consider your sources. I thought I was calling to order a custom frame.
>>
>>
>> I really liked and had several Bridgestones, an RB-1, an MB-Ø and an
>> X0-2. I sized those based on the option to try stock sizes at the shop
>> where I worked, the big difference was that each of the three had pretty
>> separate use riding intentions. Optimizing the fine adjustments of fit
>> didn't always happen. I sold the MB-Ø because its frame was too light
>> for the steep climbs of my region's trails.
>>
>> The XO-2 I bought for a silly low price from Bridgestone's garage sale
>> clearance and went on permanent loan after realizing that the top tube fit
>> was a good idea but in this format of bike it hobbled the riding position
>> for my legs. The 26" wheels and level top tube required that I used a
>> really long setback seat post and periscope-like stem to get myself on the
>> bike effectively as regarding pedaling. I suffered a number of what are now
>> "gravel" or "bikepacking" routes with this bike.
>>
>> My most miles were on the RB-1 but an opportunity to ride across the
>> country with some folks made me focus on this bike's fit, bringing what I'd
>> figured out from the others. I needed a mediu

[RBW] Re: Question for Nitto 33R (Big Back Rack, Large) havers

[Michael Morrissey]

I like using these little straps on my bike rack. This could be just what 
you need:
https://www.rei.com/product/813695/sea-to-summit-hook-release-34-accessory-straps-package-of-2?sku=8136950001&store=&CAWELAID=12021789824942&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=147670716668&CATCI=pla-1701454463905&cm_mmc=PLA_Google%7C2170001700551_8136950001%7C92700072291911126%7CNB%7C7170066695843&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjY64BhCaARIsAIfc7YZrXHk95bPini42mZWpOqiBSTq2zC_7Nb7-qV3tla3yHaZo-orFk44aAuLFEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 2:26:35 PM UTC-4 John Bokman wrote:

> Bob, i don't have a Nitto rack such as yours but instead use a Tubus rear 
> rack. I also use a Tubus front rack, which does not have a hook-catcher for 
> my bungee-style pannier hook. What I have done is use a small hose clamp on 
> the bottom strut of the rack, so when the hook is around the strut, it 
> doesn't bounce backward. You could install two small clamps on either side 
> of where you want the hook to sit so it would have a designated "slot" in 
> which to nest.
>
> John
>
> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 9:54:54 AM UTC-7 rcook...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Who here regularly uses the Nitto 33R (i.e. RBW's Big Back Rack, Large) 
>> to carry panniers? How do you ensure retention of the hook at the bottom of 
>> the rack? (By "hook" here I mean the single hook on a bungee or similar 
>> elastic cord that prevents the pannier from bouncing up and off the rack 
>> rails. Swift panniers have them, as do Arkel; Ortlieb and Carradice have a 
>> different lower attachment.)
>>
>> I'm pretty sure older versions of the rack had a loop at the bottom where 
>> one could secure the pannier's hook, and the current 32R (Big Back Rack, 
>> Medium) still has such a loop.
>>
>> Thank you.
>>
>> --
>> Bob
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Question for Nitto 33R (Big Back Rack, Large) havers

[Michael Morrissey]

Actually I use the 10mm wide ones. They are great. I used them to secure 
bags on to the panniers of my motorcycle and they worked perfectly.

https://seatosummit.com/products/accessory-straps-hook-release?variant=4550154027036



On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 2:59:32 PM UTC-4 Michael Morrissey wrote:

> I like using these little straps on my bike rack. This could be just what 
> you need:
>
> https://www.rei.com/product/813695/sea-to-summit-hook-release-34-accessory-straps-package-of-2?sku=8136950001&store=&CAWELAID=12021789824942&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=147670716668&CATCI=pla-1701454463905&cm_mmc=PLA_Google%7C2170001700551_8136950001%7C92700072291911126%7CNB%7C7170066695843&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjY64BhCaARIsAIfc7YZrXHk95bPini42mZWpOqiBSTq2zC_7Nb7-qV3tla3yHaZo-orFk44aAuLFEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
>
>
> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 2:26:35 PM UTC-4 John Bokman wrote:
>
>> Bob, i don't have a Nitto rack such as yours but instead use a Tubus rear 
>> rack. I also use a Tubus front rack, which does not have a hook-catcher for 
>> my bungee-style pannier hook. What I have done is use a small hose clamp on 
>> the bottom strut of the rack, so when the hook is around the strut, it 
>> doesn't bounce backward. You could install two small clamps on either side 
>> of where you want the hook to sit so it would have a designated "slot" in 
>> which to nest.
>>
>> John
>>
>> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 9:54:54 AM UTC-7 rcook...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Who here regularly uses the Nitto 33R (i.e. RBW's Big Back Rack, Large) 
>>> to carry panniers? How do you ensure retention of the hook at the bottom of 
>>> the rack? (By "hook" here I mean the single hook on a bungee or similar 
>>> elastic cord that prevents the pannier from bouncing up and off the rack 
>>> rails. Swift panniers have them, as do Arkel; Ortlieb and Carradice have a 
>>> different lower attachment.)
>>>
>>> I'm pretty sure older versions of the rack had a loop at the bottom 
>>> where one could secure the pannier's hook, and the current 32R (Big Back 
>>> Rack, Medium) still has such a loop.
>>>
>>> Thank you.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Bob
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Question for Nitto 33R (Big Back Rack, Large) havers

[Bob]

Michael, these look useful to have on hand in general. Thanks for the links.

--
Bob

On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 1:01:37 PM UTC-6 Michael Morrissey wrote:

> Actually I use the 10mm wide ones. They are great. I used them to secure 
> bags on to the panniers of my motorcycle and they worked perfectly.
>
>
> https://seatosummit.com/products/accessory-straps-hook-release?variant=4550154027036
>
>
>
> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 2:59:32 PM UTC-4 Michael Morrissey wrote:
>
>> I like using these little straps on my bike rack. This could be just what 
>> you need:
>>
>> https://www.rei.com/product/813695/sea-to-summit-hook-release-34-accessory-straps-package-of-2?sku=8136950001&store=&CAWELAID=12021789824942&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=147670716668&CATCI=pla-1701454463905&cm_mmc=PLA_Google%7C2170001700551_8136950001%7C92700072291911126%7CNB%7C7170066695843&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjY64BhCaARIsAIfc7YZrXHk95bPini42mZWpOqiBSTq2zC_7Nb7-qV3tla3yHaZo-orFk44aAuLFEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
>>
>>
>> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 2:26:35 PM UTC-4 John Bokman wrote:
>>
>>> Bob, i don't have a Nitto rack such as yours but instead use a Tubus 
>>> rear rack. I also use a Tubus front rack, which does not have a 
>>> hook-catcher for my bungee-style pannier hook. What I have done is use a 
>>> small hose clamp on the bottom strut of the rack, so when the hook is 
>>> around the strut, it doesn't bounce backward. You could install two small 
>>> clamps on either side of where you want the hook to sit so it would have a 
>>> designated "slot" in which to nest.
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 9:54:54 AM UTC-7 rcook...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Who here regularly uses the Nitto 33R (i.e. RBW's Big Back Rack, Large) 
 to carry panniers? How do you ensure retention of the hook at the bottom 
 of 
 the rack? (By "hook" here I mean the single hook on a bungee or similar 
 elastic cord that prevents the pannier from bouncing up and off the rack 
 rails. Swift panniers have them, as do Arkel; Ortlieb and Carradice have a 
 different lower attachment.)

 I'm pretty sure older versions of the rack had a loop at the bottom 
 where one could secure the pannier's hook, and the current 32R (Big Back 
 Rack, Medium) still has such a loop.

 Thank you.

 --
 Bob

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tics in the bars at the stem clamp - help

[Leah Peterson]

I don’t remember if I updated here…I had a Nitto Tallux 12 cm stem on my bike that I pulled this weekend. I had a tall Nitto 280 mm 10 cm stem that I wasn’t using, so in order to eliminate one thing at a time and reevaluate, that’s the plan. I rode 6 miles today and nothing. Everything feels solid, no noise. The bars are up too high, though. I want to lower them but that stem is slammed all the way in the head tube and can’t go lower. Because they are higher and closer than my normal setup, I can’t yank on them and put my weight on them like I normally do. So they might be behaving because they are not under duress. Also of note. I would get a now-and-then vibration that sounded like maybe my metal front fender. It would happen at high speeds, which is usually hammering on a club ride. That was non-existent today. Wondering if it’s not the fender and instead something in that head tube/stem interface…I really hate this.Leah On Oct 7, 2024, at 2:55 PM, Brian Campbell  wrote:Given that the issue was solved by lubricating the bars previously (as mentioned above ) I would try a bar swap first. If you have bars that are 25.4 and have  no sleeve on hand that are not being used they would be my first choice.If not these are an inexpensive way to diagnose the issue and it seems you are good with swapping bars on your own.https://www.amazon.com/Handlebar-Handlebars-Replacement-Component-Aluminum/dp/B0CSMTRRGF/ref=sr_1_24?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Gw9_I8wrRr8dt9fq-LybtGUhzpjQ77_hjcQ87kbcXteYmQ0rXAWD5AHf8MLTZOdNNKbNJidDVMEgzd6f9pUhb1Lgu10Gwkdc6-oHIyuz9VIYGGggknQvBjBVt84Cmt3TtFfFVNW5viPWW3B07zPRqBwYAdLhEzpsN4MDY3qda-6Xf1CjPJebRrytcS0BMn54xuf8Ls7msIbzY6u7VjaVAAtrFnKz46KT_Wqsn8T4PcmTNoldGOa_wYanGPDNg9PGI4dTd82Tz9PvRtArKDHtTfEZ23NoLW_8wjWHGpIAwDs.TgSuzlhrtFRpmoiL2BVPW9j9kvJu7GTlSg_f7Hrlnmw&dib_tag=se&keywords=25.4%2Bsilver%2Bhandle%2Bbar&qid=1728321716&sr=8-24&th=1&psc=1Good luck!On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 12:11:22 PM UTC-4 Mathias Steiner wrote:On the facts & observations side, we now have one clicking handlebar sleeve, and two (maybe three?) instances of clicking being resolved by cleaning, greasing, and reinstalling the stem into the steerer tube.
We've had zero reports of clicking resolved by headset work, though it's a reasonable possibility. 

I'd exhaust the first two possiblities before going to the trouble of squaring and facing a head tube that may or may not need it. I vote "not need" because it was fine for years. On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 11:14:56 AM UTC-4 bmfo...@gmail.com wrote:I recently had a tick develop out of the blue on my 1989 schwinn probe commuter. Nitto stem with the KT bars. I uninstalled and reinstalled the stem and it fixed it. I think the wedge may have been slightly loose and got bound up within the fork steerer.Little noises like that drive me nuts so i was happy to have it easily resolved. Good luck Leah! BrianOn Monday, October 7, 2024 at 9:58:56 AM UTC-5 mwill...@gmail.com wrote:Rivendell is very clear on their website as to why they don’t face and chase frames. They state that they will do it if asked for $30. I’ve done my own bottom bracket shells on two of my bikes that use a cup and cone style bottom bracket, but I’ve been fortunate enough to not have an issue with head tubes. Best wishes.MikeOn Oct 7, 2024, at 4:16 AM, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW Owners Bunch  wrote:LeahBased on the history of the 3 Platys, facing the HT on the one from Vegas (assuming this is the ticing one) may be a good idea based on what Peter White mentioned. You may want to replace the headset also since they will drive out the existing fixed cups to do the facing and your local shop apparently mangled  the adjustable cup.  The original headset in your other 2 Platys appear to work ok if the HT faced, so buying a new one should work.The other unknown is the alignment of the steerer tube in the fork crown, as Peter pointed out   This could be checked/measured for perpendicularity when they do the facing since the fork & steerer tube will be out of the frame and can easily be checked.   Ask the list members how to measure the alignment of the steerer tube in the fork crown and what to do if it is not square.John HawrylakWoodstown NJOn Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 10:54:58 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:I guess we’ll never know. It came from Riv, and it was their sample for their 1st gen Platypuses. It was assembled at a Vegas shop that was heavily racing/roadbike oriented. The mechanic is no longer there and I don’t remember if those were the days when Riv was still doing frame prep. This tic on the stem is new and I’ve had the bike nearing 4 years. Can it show up as an issue 4 years later?The 2nd Platy came from Analog, and since someone posted that Analog DOES do frame prep, I’ll likely never worry about that one. The newest purple Platy was done here, and to make the Ignite Components stuff work they had to “face the bottom bracket” and it was a real challeng

Re: [RBW] Fall Photos 2024

[John Bokman]

Bill, what type of luggage are you using, if I may ask? Especially the 
front bag?

John

On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 10:32:55 AM UTC-7 Bill S wrote:

> Just returned home from a 3 day trip with my wife, riding and meeting up 
> with various friends throughout. Rode up to camp at Mauch Chunk Lake in Jim 
> Thorpe, PA day 1, then out to the Mahoning Drive-In theatre for some movies 
> and camping on day 2, and back home on the third day.[image: 
> IMG_6127.jpg][image: 
> IMG_6163.jpg][image: IMG_6123.jpg][image: IMG_6145.jpg]
> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 5:11:55 PM UTC-4 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> @Jay,
>>
>> Wonderful and very descriptive ride write up !
>>
>> Kim Hetzel.
>>
>> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 1:24:08 PM UTC-7 Jay wrote:
>>
>>> Early fall ride.  Colours just starting to emerge.  My senses were more 
>>> tuned into sound on this morning's ride.  When I started there was no wind 
>>> at all, and almost no cars (Sunday, 7am).  I was riding along and just 
>>> about to climb, I pulled on the DT shifter and heard that lovely ratchet 
>>> sound, followed by a smooth shift and then I powered over a short climb, 
>>> feeling propelled by that feeling of being in the moment, smirking at how 
>>> awesome riding a bike can be.  A little later the wind picked up, on my way 
>>> home, thankfully, and the crips leaves were very loud under my tires. 
>>>  Later I rode some doubletrack and the wet leaves and rocks/roots 
>>> underneath gave some other senses: the smell of the decaying leaves, the 
>>> vibration from the terrain, the branches and leaves in the canopy above 
>>> jostling with the much stronger winds.  I was a bit laboured towards the 
>>> end of the ride and my breathing was most noticeable.  All good though :-)
>>>
>>> [image: image2.jpeg]
>>>
>>> [image: image1.jpeg]
>>>
>>> [image: image0.jpeg]
>>>
>>> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 2:21:56 AM UTC-4 Wesley wrote:
>>>
 Great photos and reports everyone!  I Had a great fall ride up Left 
 Hand Canyon to Ward, CO last weekend, one of Boulder’s classics! The 
 colors 
 were vibrant - I brought my Canon AE-1 to capture a bit of it on some 3M 
 Colorprint II film. Grateful for a good climb, a solid lunch at the top in 
 Ward, and a wonderful journey back down on my Atlantis. Couldn’t have 
 asked 
 for a better day!

 [image: IMG_9976.jpg][image: IMG_9992.jpg][image: IMG_9965.jpg][image: 
 IMG_9973.jpg][image: IMG_9980.jpg][image: IMG_9988.jpg]

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Question for Nitto 33R (Big Back Rack, Large) havers

[Patrick Moore]

As I was just reminded myself recently, Banjo Brothers makes a little steel
hook that you can bolt on using the dropout bosses.

https://banjobrothers.com/products/banjo-brothers-dropout-pannier-hooks-4-pack



On Mon, Oct 7, 2024 at 10:54 AM Bob  wrote:

> Who here regularly uses the Nitto 33R (i.e. RBW's Big Back Rack, Large) to
> carry panniers? How do you ensure retention of the hook at the bottom of
> the rack? (By "hook" here I mean the single hook on a bungee or similar
> elastic cord that prevents the pannier from bouncing up and off the rack
> rails. Swift panniers have them, as do Arkel; Ortlieb and Carradice have a
> different lower attachment.)
>
> I'm pretty sure older versions of the rack had a loop at the bottom where
> one could secure the pannier's hook, and the current 32R (Big Back Rack,
> Medium) still has such a loop.
>
> Thank you.
>
> --
> Bob
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> 
> .
>


-- 

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---

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Bike! Susie Longbolts.

[Tristen Moss]

Hell yeah, Ben! I’ve been thinking about hopping on Amtrak one of these
weekends to cruise around somewhere in the Bay Area and that sounds rad.
I’ll definitely hit you up!

On Mon, Oct 7, 2024 at 1:32 PM Ben R  wrote:

> congrats on the susie. you're going to love it...
>
> off topic but on topic... I too have a mustard yellow susie and skate, and
> happen to live in Richmond.  so if y'all ever want to do a susie meet up
> and ride wildcat and go skate or eat tacos after count me in!
>
> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 9:12:04 AM UTC-7 Drurad wrote:
>
>> T-Bone for the winn!  Welcome to Rivendell - where skateboarders go
>> to retire.
>>
>> -Andrew
>>
>> On Saturday, October 5, 2024 at 4:49:58 PM UTC-7 Lucky wrote:
>>
>>> I love the Susie! Especially this color. Hope to see you around town!
>>>
>>> On Oct 5, 2024, at 16:22, Tristen Moss  wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey Liz! I didn’t even realize you needed a Flickr account to look at
>>> photos haha. Hope you’re well!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, October 5, 2024 at 4:22:04 PM UTC-7 Tristen Moss wrote:
>>>
 [image: IMG_0029.jpeg]
>>>
>>>
 --
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>>> .
>>>
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[RBW] Re: Mama Platy in need of repair!

[Joe Bernard]

I agree with all that limit screws should be properly adjusted and dork 
discs are useful, but I don't think that was the problem here. It looks to 
me - and sounds from your description - that your derailleur got bounced 
into something, bending the derailleur hanger. Then when you got to the 
lowest gear the derailleur cage was pointed into the spokes instead of 
being straight/vertical. Not good! I'm glad you survived this mishap 
without injury to you or the little one. 

Joe Bernard 

On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 8:15:26 AM UTC-7 GirlGangRider wrote:

> My 2.75 year old toddler and I went on a short errand 3.6 miles away from 
> our home. I decided to take the scenic route and enjoy the ride as I 
> pointed and talked to my daughter along the way. We saw a very cool dragon 
> in front of a house alongside some other Halloween decorations. When it was 
> time to go back home, I finally checked the time to see that it was 10:40 
> AM. My husband was at home with our younger 12 month old daughter and he 
> had an online class at 11 AM. There was no way I was going to make it in 
> time for his class so I immediately messaged him and told him I would be a 
> little late. 
>
> I told my toddler, "We need to get home as soon as possible, Mama is going 
> to take a different route than the way we came so we can get home sooner." 
> I rode down a busier street and felt so lucky that I was getting every 
> single green light. My daughter was cheering me on to go faster and the 
> downhill ride made it all that more exciting. Naturally, I wanted to shift 
> my gears to change my cadence. I listened to some weird sound as I shifted 
> once and then twice. In hindsight, I should have immediately stopped trying 
> to shift and ride in the same gear until I got home. Then ask my husband to 
> check out my bike. (If you haven't read Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!'s posts on 
> ticking sounds, I highly recommend it! I have now learned my lesson to 
> always be cautious of sounds on my bike.) 
>
> I shifted a third time and while I was crossing an intersection heard a 
> very loud crack. I tried to pedal and did not feel the usual resistance on 
> my bike. Fortunately, I did not freak out and just slowly glided to a stop 
> with my brakes out of the intersection to safely disembark. I looked down 
> and saw the chain had come off. Originally, I thought that maybe I could 
> put the chain back on. I was wrong. "Mama bike broke?" said my daughter, 
> "Yes, mama bike broke." I video-called my husband that instant and showed 
> him my chain, derailleur and gear hub. His words were, "What the f&*# 
> happened? I have never seen that before!" In my stomach, I felt the biggest 
> pit of remorse and regret. Have I just messed up my beautiful Platy? The 
> bike that I love riding so much! Was it ruined forever?
>
> The Platy was not rideable. It was barely walkable. I was still about 3.1 
> miles away from home. I had a broken bike and a 26 pound toddler. My 
> husband told me to call my brother-in-law. Maybe he could come and pick up 
> my toddler and I could take the bus home. I was only 20 yards from a bus 
> stop. I decided that I would try taking the bus on my own with my toddler 
> and my broken Platy. We waited for the bus and it was time for me to lift 
> my bike (with rack and Yepp seat) onto the bike rack. I tried to pick it up 
> once and it barely got off the ground. Another *hmph* and I could only 
> get the front wheel off the ground. Taking a deep breath and looking at my 
> daughter on the sidewalk, I summoned all the Mama Hulk strength I could 
> muster to get my Platy on the bus bike rack. We rode on the bus till our 
> stop. It took another three tries to get my bike off the bike rack. I knew 
> we would have to take another bus back home. Luckily, this one offered 
> level boarding so I wheeled it inside and asked a friendly bus rider to 
> help me carry it off the bus. 
>
> We made it home. My husband came downstairs and gave me the diagnosis. 
> When I shifted, the derailleur got caught inside the spokes (the derailleur 
> hub had been previously bent somehow and this is why I should never ignore 
> strange noises!). My derailleur was broken in half. A spoke had been bent 
> and broken off. There was a small crack in the frame where the derailleur 
> is attached (we are hopeful it is just the paint). 
>
> I am devastated! I will send updates on the repair as soon as Mama Platy 
> is in working order. 
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Bike! Susie Longbolts.

[Ben R]

congrats on the susie. you're going to love it...

off topic but on topic... I too have a mustard yellow susie and skate, and 
happen to live in Richmond.  so if y'all ever want to do a susie meet up 
and ride wildcat and go skate or eat tacos after count me in!

On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 9:12:04 AM UTC-7 Drurad wrote:

> T-Bone for the winn!  Welcome to Rivendell - where skateboarders go to 
> retire.  
>
> -Andrew
>
> On Saturday, October 5, 2024 at 4:49:58 PM UTC-7 Lucky wrote:
>
>> I love the Susie! Especially this color. Hope to see you around town!
>>
>> On Oct 5, 2024, at 16:22, Tristen Moss  wrote:
>>
>> Hey Liz! I didn’t even realize you needed a Flickr account to look at 
>> photos haha. Hope you’re well! 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, October 5, 2024 at 4:22:04 PM UTC-7 Tristen Moss wrote:
>>
>>> [image: IMG_0029.jpeg]
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/6ad6d2f4-bf88-43ee-96d6-5241b389f985n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: For sale Park truing stand + accessories

[Ray Varella]

SOLD
On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 7:49:57 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:

> Good eye on the linseed oil Mathias. 
> That’s actually a gallon size jug with raw linseed oil. I use it on spoons 
> I carve. 
> If you look to the right you will see some spoons. 
> Raw linseed oil takes longer to polymerize but if it’s pure, it is food 
> safe. 
>
> Boiled linseed oil polymerizes faster but depending on the source, it can 
> have some pretty nasty chemicals added to speed the drying process. 
> For spokes I would use boiled. 
> I keep some high quality boiled oil from Sweden. I use it for tool handles 
> and outdoor benches, workbenches etc…
>
> Ray
>
> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 5:51:01 AM UTC-7 mathiass...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Extra points for the jar with an inch of linseed oil for spoke thread 
>> preparation.
>> Does one properly use boiled or raw oil? 
>>
>> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 5:19:42 PM UTC-4 Ray Varella wrote:
>>
>>> [image: IMG_2309.jpeg][image: IMG_2307.jpeg]
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Fall Photos 2024

[Bill S]

Owen - That's an Atlantis I have, rides great with the drops, though I do 
often think about throwing some albatross bars on to see how it feels - 
we'll see! I've never taken the train there, if I am ever up that way, I 
just ride the path which is right next door for the same views.

John - The front bag on the bike is actually a homemade bag, but it's 
modeled off of the Ron's Bike's small Fab's chest. Frame bag is also 
homemade, but the rear bag is a Swift Industries Zeitgeist bag.

Thanks,
Bill



On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 3:07:48 PM UTC-4 John Bokman wrote:

> Bill, what type of luggage are you using, if I may ask? Especially the 
> front bag?
>
> John
>
> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 10:32:55 AM UTC-7 Bill S wrote:
>
>> Just returned home from a 3 day trip with my wife, riding and meeting up 
>> with various friends throughout. Rode up to camp at Mauch Chunk Lake in Jim 
>> Thorpe, PA day 1, then out to the Mahoning Drive-In theatre for some movies 
>> and camping on day 2, and back home on the third day.[image: 
>> IMG_6127.jpg][image: IMG_6163.jpg][image: IMG_6123.jpg][image: 
>> IMG_6145.jpg]
>> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 5:11:55 PM UTC-4 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> @Jay,
>>>
>>> Wonderful and very descriptive ride write up !
>>>
>>> Kim Hetzel.
>>>
>>> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 1:24:08 PM UTC-7 Jay wrote:
>>>
 Early fall ride.  Colours just starting to emerge.  My senses were more 
 tuned into sound on this morning's ride.  When I started there was no wind 
 at all, and almost no cars (Sunday, 7am).  I was riding along and just 
 about to climb, I pulled on the DT shifter and heard that lovely ratchet 
 sound, followed by a smooth shift and then I powered over a short climb, 
 feeling propelled by that feeling of being in the moment, smirking at how 
 awesome riding a bike can be.  A little later the wind picked up, on my 
 way 
 home, thankfully, and the crips leaves were very loud under my tires. 
  Later I rode some doubletrack and the wet leaves and rocks/roots 
 underneath gave some other senses: the smell of the decaying leaves, the 
 vibration from the terrain, the branches and leaves in the canopy above 
 jostling with the much stronger winds.  I was a bit laboured towards the 
 end of the ride and my breathing was most noticeable.  All good though :-)

 [image: image2.jpeg]

 [image: image1.jpeg]

 [image: image0.jpeg]

 On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 2:21:56 AM UTC-4 Wesley wrote:

> Great photos and reports everyone!  I Had a great fall ride up Left 
> Hand Canyon to Ward, CO last weekend, one of Boulder’s classics! The 
> colors 
> were vibrant - I brought my Canon AE-1 to capture a bit of it on some 3M 
> Colorprint II film. Grateful for a good climb, a solid lunch at the top 
> in 
> Ward, and a wonderful journey back down on my Atlantis. Couldn’t have 
> asked 
> for a better day!
>
> [image: IMG_9976.jpg][image: IMG_9992.jpg][image: IMG_9965.jpg][image: 
> IMG_9973.jpg][image: IMG_9980.jpg][image: IMG_9988.jpg]
>


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[RBW] Re: FS - Black Pass n Stow 5 rail w/ cargo mounts.

[Alex K]

DIBS!!!

On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 1:22:07 PM UTC-7 ben.r...@gmail.com wrote:

> Decided its a little overkill to run the pass on the susie when I don't 
> haul a lot and only run a 137 wald and would rather have a smaller nitto 
> Marks Rack, so time to make room.
> Black 5 rail pass n stow rack w/ the side cargo mounts.  it's the 650B arm 
> size and I have all the original mounting hardware as well.  Asking $170
> For sure used but still in good shape and would run it as my everyday 
> hauler.
> not really interested in shipping so prefer local meet up.
> located in East bay and can meet up in SF.
> [image: IMG_6689.jpg]
> [image: IMG_6690.jpg]
> [image: IMG_6692.jpg]
> [image: IMG_6693.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: NIB Sam Hillborne frameset 51cm

[Ray Varella]

Hi,
Where are you located?

Thank you 
Ray

On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 1:19:57 PM UTC-7 cramer@gmail.com wrote:

> Bronzy green. Never built up, still in box, sealed. I paid $1750 and am 
> selling it for $1600 + shipping(bike flights)
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] FS 2018 Rivendell Atlantis 53cm

[Hugh Smitham]

Sold

~Hugh

“Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
moving.” ― Albert Einstein






On Sat, Sep 21, 2024 at 4:16 PM Hugh Smitham  wrote:

> 2018 MIT Atlantis 53 cm $3300 Please read description in its entirety
> before responding. If I have left anything out, I’m happy to answer any
> questions and provide additional photos upon request.
>
> Wheels: 650b tubeless.
>
> Front: Velo Orange Voyager rims, Son 28 hub 32 spoke, DT Swiss double
> butted spokes, tires Panaracer Gravel King 42mm, DT swiss steel skewers.
>
> Rear: Velo Orange Voyager rims, White Industries rear hub 32 spoke, DT
> Swiss double butted spokes, tire Panaracer Gravel King 42mm DT swiss steel
> skewers.
>
> 9 speed Drive train: Shimano XT cassette 11-42, Rear XT shadow derailleur,
> Front XT derailleur, Crank, white Industries silver VBC 42/20 crank arm
> length 165mm.
>
> Brakes: Paul Motolites Silver w/ Koolstop salmon pads F&R
>
> Brake Levers: Paul Love Levers Silver.
>
> Shifters: Paul Shimano Thumbies with Shimano XT shifters.
>
> Headset: FSA
>
> Handlebars: Nitto Choco Bars 54cm wide/25.4 clamp with Ergon GC1 cork
> grips.
>
> Stem: Nitto lugged 1” quill stem 120mm length.
>
> Nitto Marks rack silver rear mounted.
>
> Lighting: Busch + Muller 1Q-X Dynamo headlight with B+M rear taillight
> mounted to marks rack.
>
> Seat post: Nitto S83 post not sure on length? Most likely 300mm
>
> I used Helicopter tape to adhere the dynamo cabling to the top tube. The
> cabling on the Marks rack is electrical tape.
>
> I am not interested in parting out this bike. I believe this is a superb
> build and the discerning buyer will appreciate it as is. During the build I
> also applied liberal amounts of frame saver. The frame is not perfect, as
> there is a scratch on the top tube which the previous owner touched up,
> it’s actually difficult to see. Total miles on this build is around 200
> miles so all the parts have many miles left.
>
> Gilles Berthod saddle does not come with bike, nor do the pedals, king
> cages or handlebar bell. If interested in including those items we can
> discuss an additional price?
>
> In addition to the cost of the bike, the buyer will be responsible for the
> $90 packing fee. Which will be professionally packed by “Around the Cycle”
> in Pasadena, and the shipping cost using Bike Flights. The process of
> packing could be up to week before shipping depending on their workload, it
> could be sooner. Shipping will only be in the CONUS no overseas shipping to
> Hawaii or Alaska.
>
> Payment: I will accept PayPal Friends & Family or a personal check.
>
>  Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/fpygJRW758BPLcD79
>
>
>
> --
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> .
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS - Black Pass n Stow 5 rail w/ cargo mounts.

[Ben R]

Sold!

Ben R


On Mon, Oct 7, 2024 at 1:49 PM Alex K  wrote:

> DIBS!!!
>
> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 1:22:07 PM UTC-7 ben.r...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Decided its a little overkill to run the pass on the susie when I don't
>> haul a lot and only run a 137 wald and would rather have a smaller nitto
>> Marks Rack, so time to make room.
>> Black 5 rail pass n stow rack w/ the side cargo mounts.  it's the 650B
>> arm size and I have all the original mounting hardware as well.  Asking $170
>> For sure used but still in good shape and would run it as my everyday
>> hauler.
>> not really interested in shipping so prefer local meet up.
>> located in East bay and can meet up in SF.
>> [image: IMG_6689.jpg]
>> [image: IMG_6690.jpg]
>> [image: IMG_6692.jpg]
>> [image: IMG_6693.jpg]
>>
> --
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> .
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tics in the bars at the stem clamp - help

[Ray Varella]

I’m going to second what Chris said, that is excellent scientific 
protocol…change one thing at a time so once you solve your issue you will 
be reasonably certain what solved it. 

Think, plan, do, evaluate. 

Ray

On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 1:21:08 PM UTC-7 Chris Halasz wrote:

> Leah 
>
> I'm not saying you could have been, I'm wondering if you are aware that 
> you *are* a first class bonafide Systems Engineer, what with the focused 
> and detailed fault tree analysis 
>  and fish-bone diagram 
>  you're constructing. 
>
> (About the possibility of your being a card-carrying obsessive compulsive 
> cyclist, nothing unique about that here on this list). 
>
> Enjoying every tic of this discussion, 
>
> Chris 
>
> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 12:19:41 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> I don’t remember if I updated here…I had a Nitto Tallux 12 cm stem on my 
>> bike that I pulled this weekend. I had a tall Nitto 280 mm 10 cm stem that 
>> I wasn’t using, so in order to eliminate one thing at a time and 
>> reevaluate, that’s the plan. I rode 6 miles today and nothing. Everything 
>> feels solid, no noise. The bars are up too high, though. I want to lower 
>> them but that stem is slammed all the way in the head tube and can’t go 
>> lower. Because they are higher and closer than my normal setup, I can’t 
>> yank on them and put my weight on them like I normally do. So they might be 
>> behaving because they are not under duress. 
>>
>> Also of note. I would get a now-and-then vibration that sounded like 
>> maybe my metal front fender. It would happen at high speeds, which is 
>> usually hammering on a club ride. That was non-existent today. Wondering if 
>> it’s not the fender and instead something in that head tube/stem interface…
>>
>> I really hate this.
>> Leah 
>>
>> On Oct 7, 2024, at 2:55 PM, Brian Campbell  wrote:
>>
>> Given that the issue was solved by lubricating the bars previously (as 
>> mentioned above ) I would try a bar swap first. If you have bars that 
>> are 25.4 and have  no sleeve on hand that are not being used they would be 
>> my first choice.
>>
>>
>> If not these are an inexpensive way to diagnose the issue and it seems 
>> you are good with swapping bars on your own.
>>
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Handlebar-Handlebars-Replacement-Component-Aluminum/dp/B0CSMTRRGF/ref=sr_1_24?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Gw9_I8wrRr8dt9fq-LybtGUhzpjQ77_hjcQ87kbcXteYmQ0rXAWD5AHf8MLTZOdNNKbNJidDVMEgzd6f9pUhb1Lgu10Gwkdc6-oHIyuz9VIYGGggknQvBjBVt84Cmt3TtFfFVNW5viPWW3B07zPRqBwYAdLhEzpsN4MDY3qda-6Xf1CjPJebRrytcS0BMn54xuf8Ls7msIbzY6u7VjaVAAtrFnKz46KT_Wqsn8T4PcmTNoldGOa_wYanGPDNg9PGI4dTd82Tz9PvRtArKDHtTfEZ23NoLW_8wjWHGpIAwDs.TgSuzlhrtFRpmoiL2BVPW9j9kvJu7GTlSg_f7Hrlnmw&dib_tag=se&keywords=25.4%2Bsilver%2Bhandle%2Bbar&qid=1728321716&sr=8-24&th=1&psc=1
>>
>> Good luck!
>> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 12:11:22 PM UTC-4 Mathias Steiner wrote:
>>
>>> On the facts & observations side, we now have one clicking handlebar 
>>> sleeve, and two (maybe three?) instances of clicking being resolved by 
>>> cleaning, greasing, and reinstalling the stem into the steerer tube.
>>>
>>> We've had zero reports of clicking resolved by headset work, though it's 
>>> a reasonable possibility. 
>>>
>>> I'd exhaust the first two possiblities before going to the trouble of 
>>> squaring and facing a head tube that may or may not need it. 
>>> I vote "not need" because it was fine for years. 
>>>
>>> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 11:14:56 AM UTC-4 bmfo...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 I recently had a tick develop out of the blue on my 1989 schwinn probe 
 commuter. Nitto stem with the KT bars. I uninstalled and reinstalled the 
 stem and it fixed it. I think the wedge may have been slightly loose and 
 got bound up within the fork steerer.

 Little noises like that drive me nuts so i was happy to have it easily 
 resolved. Good luck Leah! 

 Brian



 On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 9:58:56 AM UTC-5 mwill...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Rivendell is very clear on their website as to why they don’t face and 
> chase frames. They state that they will do it if asked for $30. I’ve done 
> my own bottom bracket shells on two of my bikes that use a cup and cone 
> style bottom bracket, but I’ve been fortunate enough to not have an issue 
> with head tubes. Best wishes.
>
> Mike
>
> On Oct 7, 2024, at 4:16 AM, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW 
> Owners Bunch  wrote:
>
> Leah
>
>
> Based on the history of the 3 Platys, facing the HT on the one from 
> Vegas (assuming this is the ticing one) may be a good idea based on what 
> Peter White mentioned. 
>
> You may want to replace the headset also since they will drive out the 
> existing fixed cups to do the facing and your local shop apparently 
> mangled  the adjustable