Re: [RBW] California bike route advice - Lompoc to Santa Barbara

[Garth]

I don't even live there but in exploring the roads via google "street view" 
taking the highways 1 and 101 are the way to go. I use the "street view" 
feature a lot as it gives visual photos of the actual roads. 
That said, this https://cyclecalcoast.com/rides/pcbr/ gives you more 
detailed info about the route, including the narrow southbound 101 bridge 
near the Baron Ranch trailhead. 

I found that website via a Gibiru search for *cycling from Santa Barbara to 
Gaviota .*


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[RBW] FS: Shimano Bar End Shifters & Suntour XC Pro Thumb Shifters

[Conway Bennett]

I'm doing some Spring bar swapping, and the unintended consequence is that 
I'm inventorying and culling my parts bins.  So, I came up with 2 x 9 
Shimano Bar End Shifters & 3 x 9 Suntour XC Pro Thumb Shifters.  The 
Shimano shifters are well used, so $40 net to me shipped in the lower 48.  
The Suntour shifters are gently used, so $45 net to me shipped in the lower 
48. 

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[RBW] FS: Bags x Bird Small Short Frame Bag

[Conway Bennett]

For your consideration is a Bags x Bird Small Short Frame Bag in Coyote 
XPac for small/medium frames.  I bought this last Summer when I had my son 
in a front seat and my daughter in a rear seat, so I couldn't run front or 
rear bags, but they aged out to a Burley before I really put this to 
use--no signs of wear at all.  $110 net to me shipped in the lower 48, so 
no wait, tax, or shipping.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 55 cm Bosco Bar

[Conway Bennett]

Joe,

My pitch is that you save via not paying tax and shipping.  If you've 
shipped bars you'll get that this is a fair deal.

On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 11:17:03 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Am I misunderstanding the post or is the bar $81 plus shipping? That's the 
> new price from Riv. 
>
> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 7:56:12 PM UTC-7 captaincon...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I have a lightly used 55 cm Bosco Bar I took off my wife's bike and 
>> swapped for my Albatross setup.  $81 net to me shipped in the lower 48.  
>> It's in excellent condition,so my pitch is that you save tax and shipping.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 55 cm Bosco Bar

[Hoch in ut]

“Shipped” price means the seller will pay for shipping. “Net” means the 
buyer pays for fees if applicable (ie PayPal fees). This is an excellent 
price. Last time i shipped bars, i think it was $25 or $30. 

On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 10:17:03 PM UTC-6 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Am I misunderstanding the post or is the bar $81 plus shipping? That's the 
> new price from Riv. 
>
> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 7:56:12 PM UTC-7 captaincon...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I have a lightly used 55 cm Bosco Bar I took off my wife's bike and 
>> swapped for my Albatross setup.  $81 net to me shipped in the lower 48.  
>> It's in excellent condition,so my pitch is that you save tax and shipping.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Sam Build - Wish Me Luck!

[Michael Baquerizo]

aware this is not the same color, and it might be even more different in 
person, those black zip ties ALL over the downtube ruin the paint for me. i 
think my bike has two (top and bottom) and it does the job well enough.

https://www.cabletiesunlimited.com/4-18lb-florescent-green-cable-ties-100-bag-part-c4-18-flo-green.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwk7ugBhDIARIsAGuvgPYfoQVjxvVTnv3bIjLioXeFdI0OnawXuSxE6U1DAmKjUQHJZpbSxeMaAm_rEALw_wcB

this would at least disappear into the paint a bit more than the thicker 
black zip ties do.

On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 3:11:09 PM UTC-5 jak...@me.com wrote:

> Thanks Paul,  I really enjoy the Rivendell Ride. Building it has given me 
> an improved eye for detail, particularly when viewing other builds such as 
> Ted’s here.  Ya know what my bike has it all over Ted’s in terms of 
> function and aesthetic?
>
> Nothing!I gotta go back to the drawing board.  Goodness!
>
> On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 2:17:07 PM UTC-5 Ted Durant wrote:
>
>> The Cub House does a superb job of building bikes, and they have a talent 
>> for photographing them, too.
>>
>> https://cubhouse.cc/custom-builds/teds-rivendell-hillborne
>>
>> Ted Durant 
>> Milwaukee WI USA
>>
>>

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[RBW] FS: Nitto Stems

[Conway Bennett]

Some of y'all are probably doing what I'm doing, and tuning your rides 
while we flirt with Spring.  I am in the the faceplate ecosystem now, so 
here's what's available:

Nitto Technomic 225 mm quill with 5 cm extension.  $41

Nitto Dirt Drop 26.0 clamp with 10 cm extension.  $??? You can buy new at 
Tree Fort Bikes for $43 with free shipping!?

Nitto UI 12 Quill Stem 31.8 clamp with 10 cm extension.  $69

Velo Orange Threadless Stem 26 clamp, +/-17 rise/drop, 7 cm extension.  $28
 
Prices are net to me.  Add $9 for shipping in the lower 48.

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Re: [RBW] Velocity Dually Wheelset - $225

[Joe D.]

Wheelset is sold!

On Saturday, March 4, 2023 at 1:04:13 PM UTC-7 Joe D. wrote:

> Hi Doug,
>
> Another cargo biker! I have a Yuba Mundo Lux but probably would have 
> gotten a Big Dummy had they been in stock when I got the Yuba.
>
> The spokes are straight, not double butted. I think they'd be great on a 
> big dummy. I actually just switched wheelsets on my Yuba from the stock (
> https://groups.google.com/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/8XKVVAqkKfE) to something 
> similar to the Dually, but thru axle, the WTB scraper, so I could run 2.5 - 
> 3" tires. Biggest question I had was weather the 32 spoke wheels were 
> strong enough for cargo bike use, since stock was 36 hole. Two bike shops 
> near me confirmed that it's not an issue provided the wheel uses quality 
> parts and the spokes stay tensioned. After a winter of heavy use on the new 
> 32 hole scraper wheels I think I agree.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Saturday, March 4, 2023 at 11:44:46 AM UTC-7 Doug Van Cleve wrote:
>
>> Funny question for you Joe,
>>
>> Are the spokes on these porkers double butted (doesn't look like it but 
>> maybe hard to tell)? Any opinions about these wheels on a Big Dummy?
>>
>> Thanks, Doug
>>
>> On Sat, Mar 4, 2023 at 9:26 AM Joe D.  wrote:
>>
>>> For sale is a wheelset with perhaps the best plus size 26 inch rim on 
>>> the market, the Velocity Dually, paired with Deore hubs. Great for a tire 
>>> between 2.3 - 3 inches wide. The rear wheel is for 135mm quick release, 
>>> disc brake only. Front is for 100mm quick release. Already taped for 
>>> tubeless (but can run tubes just fine). Less than 100 miles on it and in 
>>> like new condition. 
>>>
>>> Price is $225, shipped. I had been selling only the rear wheel, but 
>>> plans for another project changed so now it's the whole wheelset for sale. 
>>>
>>> Why post on the rim-brake loving Riv site? Ha, good question! I think 
>>> there are enough Riv aficionados with old Surly, Crust, etc. bikes that 
>>> take 135mm rear and big 26" tires. Maybe I'm wrong though? 
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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[RBW] FS: DT Swiss R460/Campy Chorus/Shimano Freehub/700C

[Dave Grossman]

DT R460 rims laced to silver Campy Chorus Hubs

32/32

100/130

Shimano Freehub

$250 net to me + Shipping or local in Chicago.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ryiTchuR7jcjb2UW9

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[RBW] Re: FS: Cool Vintage Components (Sugino, Suntour, Shimano)

[Eliot B]

John, I believe it is. I’ll let you know. 

Thanks Mike, what does swaged mean in this context ? What would a fair 
price be ? $100? $75?

On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 7:56:15 PM UTC-7 Mike Godwin wrote:

> I like the Sugino Mighty / Super models. The one you show is the swaged 
> version, it appears anyway from your photos. Dare I say, the asking price 
> is high for a swaged crank.
>
> Mike "not always a bottom feeder" SLO CA
>
> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 12:18:37 PM UTC-7 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I have some excellent condition (some NOS) vintage bits if anyone is 
>> interested.
>>
>> Prices are based off of recent eBay sales. If my prices are off feel free 
>> to make me an offer.
>>
>> Shimano 6206 (50/44/28) 165mm crankset - NOS 
>> Came with Shimano 600ex (Ultegra) and Deerhead (XT) groups
>> Your choice of the NOS biopace rings or good condition Sugino (
>> 52/40/28)- $120
>>
>>
>> Rhode Flickstand: $30 NIB
>>
>>
>> Suntour Cyclone GT (1st Gen): $120 looks NOS but no packaging. 
>>
>> Suntour V: $30?
>>
>>
>> Sugino Super Maxy: $175
>>
>> Extra Arm: $50
>>
>> Sugino BB tools: $30
>>
>>
>> Zoom Lightweight 26.6 seatpost: $30
>>
>>
>> photos: https://www.flickr.com/gp/47833614@N04/0tv7er2CPE
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>>
>> Eliot
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Stems

[Matt Beecher]

I'm not personally interested, but I was curious what the UI 12 was.  It 
seems there may a threaded and threadless version of the stem, according to 
a very brief Google search.  You may want to clarify that.  

I'm still on the hunt for a 10cm or longer Nitto hi-riser.  

Cheers,
Matt

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv Riders Interactive Map is Live!

[RichS]

John,

Many thanks for creating the map. Didn't take long for it to be heavily 
populated!

Best,
Rich in ATL

On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 8:31:50 PM UTC-4 DavidP wrote:

> Nicely done, John!
>
> -Dave
>
> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 6:33:08 PM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Yes, thank you! This is great. I’m hoping this will open up a whole new 
>> level of interaction and adventure among us RBW owners!
>>
>> On Mar 12, 2023, at 6:04 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> John Rinker: Thank you, fun map!
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Gus is complete!

[Richard Rose]

I do not weigh bikes anymore but I do not think so? They feel very similar. It is bigger than the Clem with bigger/heavier wheels/tires and otherwise similar components so it might be heavier. Perhaps I should weigh them.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 13, 2023, at 11:02 AM, Kim Hetzel  wrote:Richard, Is your Gus heavier than your Clem ?Kim HetzelYelm, WA On Sat, Mar 11, 2023, 12:31 PM Richard Rose  wrote:Just finished my first real ride on this Gus. 23 cold(ish) miles. It was fantastic. Very familiar as expected (compared to Clem) but different enough to give me confidence that this will be a great mountain bike. I do miss the step through. But that’s it. The front end is noticeably stiffer - and I am not real good at noticing these things. The ride is even more plush than the Clem. Slightly longer wheelbase & larger tires I suspect. It feels like the Clem but bigger - taller. The extra bottom bracket height (2”) is only noticeable cornering - with confidence there will be no pedal strikes. I love it.Gus Inauguralapp.goo.glSent from my iPhoneOn Mar 10, 2023, at 6:41 PM, Richard Rose  wrote:Well, almost, Still need to trim / cap the cables along with some fine tuning. But, my first ever build is rolling! Shifting the 2 x 7 drivetrain is very smooth & accurate. Brakes are squeal free and solid if a bit soft at the lever. Touch points feel spot on as they should, having been duplicated from my Clem. This promises to be epic fun once the trails dry out.For those interested, this has been an interesting process. Frame was acquired from C&L Cycles in Montreal in a very smooth transaction. Awesome Cliffhanger build & tires came from a Group member here. My first dynamo. A bunch of parts came from Riv, Will was a big help. Stem & spacers from Blue lug - they are amazing! B17 was a gift. The silver Deore rear deraillieur & Black Deore brakes came from e bay. Paul levers from Northwest Bike. Simworks cables... In short, it takes a village!It snowed overnight here in Toledo, Ohio. It was a good day to work on the bike and take it for a spin up & down the cleared just in time road. This was a lot of fun & I learned a lot. A few pis here; https://photos.app.goo.gl/C7VAntDBoDHCZDcf8



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Re: [RBW] Gus is complete!

[Kim Hetzel]

Thank you for your feedback, Richard.

Kim.

On Mon, Mar 13, 2023, 8:10 AM Richard Rose  wrote:

> I do not weigh bikes anymore but I do not think so? They feel very
> similar. It is bigger than the Clem with bigger/heavier wheels/tires and
> otherwise similar components so it might be heavier. Perhaps I should weigh
> them.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 13, 2023, at 11:02 AM, Kim Hetzel  wrote:
>
> 
> Richard,
>
> Is your Gus heavier than your Clem ?
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA
>
> On Sat, Mar 11, 2023, 12:31 PM Richard Rose  wrote:
>
>> Just finished my first real ride on this Gus. 23 cold(ish) miles. It was
>> fantastic. Very familiar as expected (compared to Clem) but different
>> enough to give me confidence that this will be a great mountain bike. I do
>> miss the step through. But that’s it. The front end is noticeably stiffer -
>> and I am not real good at noticing these things. The ride is even more
>> plush than the Clem. Slightly longer wheelbase & larger tires I suspect. It
>> feels like the Clem but bigger - taller. The extra bottom bracket height
>> (2”) is only noticeable cornering - with confidence there will be no pedal
>> strikes. I love it.
>> [image:
>> eL0staezfp_4e_Ld_JOW2P9CxS8Pw0enpcPuxARbeACrcxfZe2dXf0XCBtL44Q8XUndNRjhAFJ5sQJwd6eIYIVeUQYCdX8mWnFlLvynBDu9hzK1voY-YLwDXODggnYZ_t9dqcx_QaA=w600-h315-p-k.jpeg]
>>
>> Gus Inaugural 
>> app.goo.gl 
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Mar 10, 2023, at 6:41 PM, Richard Rose  wrote:
>>
>> Well, almost, Still need to trim / cap the cables along with some fine
>> tuning. But, my first ever build is rolling! Shifting the 2 x 7 drivetrain
>> is very smooth & accurate. Brakes are squeal free and solid if a bit soft
>> at the lever. Touch points feel spot on as they should, having been
>> duplicated from my Clem. This promises to be epic fun once the trails dry
>> out.
>> For those interested, this has been an interesting process. Frame was
>> acquired from C&L Cycles in Montreal in a very smooth transaction. Awesome
>> Cliffhanger build & tires came from a Group member here. My first dynamo. A
>> bunch of parts came from Riv, Will was a big help. Stem & spacers from Blue
>> lug - they are amazing! B17 was a gift. The silver Deore rear deraillieur &
>> Black Deore brakes came from e bay. Paul levers from Northwest Bike.
>> Simworks cables... In short, it takes a village!
>> It snowed overnight here in Toledo, Ohio. It was a good day to work on
>> the bike and take it for a spin up & down the cleared just in time road.
>> This was a lot of fun & I learned a lot. A few pis here;
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/C7VAntDBoDHCZDcf8
>>
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>> .
>>
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Re: [RBW] WTB: friction thumb shifters, VO crazy bar, gamma/monarch pedals

[Richard Rose]

Peter, sent you PM.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 4, 2023, at 3:38 PM, Peter Fray  wrote:Hi there,I'm building a bike on a budget but would like to get quality long lasting components - so looking to get used ones in good condition.- silver friction shifters with the thumb mounts- velo orange crazy bars or seine bars- MKS monarch pedalsIf you've suggestions for replacements for the above I'd be happy to consider.Cheers,Peter



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[RBW] Re: FS: Cool Vintage Components (Sugino, Suntour, Shimano)

[Mike Godwin]

Hi Eliot
You can see the cold joint, so it were, where the spider attaches to the 
crankarm. On the bb side of the DS crankarm, you can see where the metal of 
the arm is mushroomed out around the spider, kind of like a rivet. This 
style was on lower range bike boom bikes. You find, at least used to, 
marque branded cranks for Raleigh, Nishiki, Fuji and a few others with the 
swaged Super Maxy.  Entirely aluminum. 

Fair price? I think review ebay sold prices for a range. I almost bought a 
Super Mighty 110 bcd NOS for over 200, but my senses got the better of me. 

Check it out here on Velobase  VeloBase.com - Component: Sugino Maxy (5-Arm) 


Mike SLO CA

On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 7:25:13 AM UTC-7 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:

> John, I believe it is. I’ll let you know. 
>
> Thanks Mike, what does swaged mean in this context ? What would a fair 
> price be ? $100? $75?
>
> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 7:56:15 PM UTC-7 Mike Godwin wrote:
>
>> I like the Sugino Mighty / Super models. The one you show is the swaged 
>> version, it appears anyway from your photos. Dare I say, the asking price 
>> is high for a swaged crank.
>>
>> Mike "not always a bottom feeder" SLO CA
>>
>> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 12:18:37 PM UTC-7 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> I have some excellent condition (some NOS) vintage bits if anyone is 
>>> interested.
>>>
>>> Prices are based off of recent eBay sales. If my prices are off feel 
>>> free to make me an offer.
>>>
>>> Shimano 6206 (50/44/28) 165mm crankset - NOS 
>>> Came with Shimano 600ex (Ultegra) and Deerhead (XT) groups
>>> Your choice of the NOS biopace rings or good condition Sugino (
>>> 52/40/28)- $120
>>>
>>>
>>> Rhode Flickstand: $30 NIB
>>>
>>>
>>> Suntour Cyclone GT (1st Gen): $120 looks NOS but no packaging. 
>>>
>>> Suntour V: $30?
>>>
>>>
>>> Sugino Super Maxy: $175
>>>
>>> Extra Arm: $50
>>>
>>> Sugino BB tools: $30
>>>
>>>
>>> Zoom Lightweight 26.6 seatpost: $30
>>>
>>>
>>> photos: https://www.flickr.com/gp/47833614@N04/0tv7er2CPE
>>>
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>>
>>> Eliot
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Marinoni Turismo

[Damien]

Hi all,

I know this has been sitting there for a bit but thought I'd try and bring 
it back up to the top. Any interest in this at *$1,000 USD*? I'm happy to 
throw on the original 3TTT bars/stem if you so desire as well. Anyways, let 
me know if any questions or interest. My 5 month old's diapers are getting 
expensive!

Thanks,
Damien

On Tuesday, 2 August 2022 at 10:34:14 UTC-4 Damien wrote:

> Hi all, dropping to $1,100 USD!
>
> Thank you,
> Damien
>
> On Friday, 29 July 2022 at 12:49:38 UTC-4 Damien wrote:
>
>> Ian - thanks for the bump! Really cool to hear (and see!) where your 
>> Marinoni has been - Alberta/BC tour looks amazing
>>
>> Damien 
>>
>> On Thursday, 28 July 2022 at 17:30:59 UTC-4 Ian A wrote:
>>
>>> A bump for Damien! I have a c1999 Marinoni Turismo that has taken me to 
>>> the tip of South America and much more recently at 20 day, 2600km tour 
>>> through Alberta and BC. Mine, curiously, had an SLX sticker (not SPX) and I 
>>> suspect it was a special order, but it came to me used in 2008 and I never 
>>> met the first owner. Superb road manners, great for rando rides and light 
>>> or loaded touring. Mine just takes 35mm tires under fenders and as a sealed 
>>> road tourer, it's hard to imagine a better choice.
>>>
>>> IanA Alberta Canada
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 7:50:00 AM UTC-6 Damien wrote:
>>>
 Hi all! Dropping price to $1,200 USD!

 Thanks
 Damien

 On Friday, 22 July 2022 at 13:42:24 UTC-4 Matt Beecher wrote:

> Yep, the other was larger, but these are pretty cool, imo. 
>
>
> https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage-sales/1002852-marinoni-special-triple-rings-cantilever-brakes-great-condition.html
>
> On Friday, July 22, 2022 at 12:34:44 PM UTC-5 Matt Beecher wrote:
>
>> Very cool.  I love purple bikes and I remember one like this several 
>> years back on Bikeforums.  I think it was taller though, as I recall 
>> considering it, but the bike sold before I could finalize a deal.  
>>
>> Good luck with the sale.
>>
>> Best regards,
>> Matt
>>
>> On Friday, July 22, 2022 at 12:03:38 AM UTC-5 Damien wrote:
>>
>>> On Friday, 22 July 2022 at 01:02:20 UTC-4 Damien wrote:
>>>
 aaand a few more pics

 On Friday, 22 July 2022 at 01:01:25 UTC-4 Damien wrote:

> Bit of a backstory: I bought this bike and set it up with high 
> upright handlebars with the intention of having my dad ride it. 
> Unfortunately he had a significant health scare very recently (still 
> not 
> recovered) and I realized that he's not really going to use it. Plus 
> he's 
> got some 90's Rocky Mountain which he won't let go of, and I thought, 
> "well, if he's happy with this, I'm happy too." So, I tinkered a bit 
> and 
> tried to find a way to have this fit me but I could not get 
> comfortable 
> myself on it (I'm an 80 PBH, standover on this is 81-82, and the 
> reach 
> still felt a bit long for me even with a short stem and compact bars 
> - and 
> I'm on a 51 in both a Sam and Hunqapillar and don't feel I would have 
> a 
> need for it even if it did fit). So, I thought someone here might 
> appreciate. 
>
> Hopefully it is ok to post this here and even if no interest, I'm 
> hoping someone will find that the bike is at least cool to look at. 
> It 
> really is nice and makes me wish I was taller and longer limbed.
>
> On Friday, 22 July 2022 at 00:59:36 UTC-4 Damien wrote:
>
>> Unfortunately selling this lovely bike.
>>
>> 2001 Marinoni Turismo Columbus SPX frame and fork
>> 56 cm top tube length
>> ~ 81-82 cm standover
>> Campagnolo Veloce 9x3 speed shifters
>> Campagnolo Veloce RD
>> Campagnolo Triple Crankset
>> Campagnolo Triple FD
>> new cables and housing throughout
>> new Nitto x Crust Shaka Bars
>> new Nitto x Crust 60mm quill stem
>> new Black Inc bar tape
>> Ambrosio 36 hole rims laced to Campagnolo Hubs
>> Blackburn Front and Rear Touring Racks
>> Will not come with the Brooks B17 in the pics but will come with 
>> a used Brooks Cambium saddle
>>
>> Looking for $1,300 (USD) and can organize professional boxing and 
>> shipping at the buyers expense (I am located in Canada - if you're 
>> in 
>> Canada and interested, can discuss CAD price).
>>
>> Let me know if any questions. Will happily send more pics!
>> Damien
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Stems

[jad...@gmail.com]

can I get a photo of the UI 12 to ja...@aol.com

On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 8:53:10 AM UTC-6 Matt Beecher wrote:

> I'm not personally interested, but I was curious what the UI 12 was.  It 
> seems there may a threaded and threadless version of the stem, according to 
> a very brief Google search.  You may want to clarify that.  
>
> I'm still on the hunt for a 10cm or longer Nitto hi-riser.  
>
> Cheers,
> Matt
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Downtube bosses predicament

[R Olson]

Thanks all for your suggestions!  I really appreciate it.  I did work on 
this over the weekend, but unfortunately could not get it out.  At first, I 
tried the slotting method - using a Dremel tool to cut a small slot in 
bolt, which I successfully did.  I also added some lube and let it sit 
overnight.  When I went to unscrew it, it wouldn't budge though.  I think 
it's just torqued in there really tight.  I don't have a blow torch, and 
didn't want to make the situation worse by potentially damaging the tubes 
or paint with this method.  It's hard to see in the picture, but there 
really was absolutely nothing to grab onto, it was exactly flush with the 
boss.  I did try hammering it a bit to try to rotate it, but it still 
wouldn't move.  I might just try using some adhesive to glue on the stop on 
that side.  I don't ever plan on putting a shift lever there, so it'll 
probably be ok.  The biggest takeaway for me is to grease up the bolts and 
rotate them in and a out a few times, and to STOP screwing it in when I 
feel a lot of resistance. I am going to be much more careful whenever I 
tighten bolts from now on for sure!

Ryan

On Saturday, March 11, 2023 at 12:26:18 PM UTC-7 steve...@gmail.com wrote:

> Ryan -Oh yeah - been there, done that!Here's one more trick you 
> can try that I've had success with. Start with lube as suggested (maybe lay 
> the frame on its side so gravity can promote penetration of the lube). 
> Apply some "gentle heat" with something like a hair blow dryer. After the 
> lube has had a chance to penetrate and you have it warmed it up use a punch 
> or similar tool (small drift or even a screw driver) and wedge the tip into 
> the dimple your drill bit formed (it looks like you may have one right on 
> the edge of the sheared bolt) Hold the punch with a  firm grasp and begin 
> tapping it with a small hammer. The punch should be angled as much as 
> possible to direct the torque counterclockwise. Tap, tap tap - It will take 
> at least a few dozen strikes. You may want to mask off the surrounding down 
> tube with cardboard and  tape to protect it in case the tip of the punch 
> slips. 
>
> Let us know what works so we can all learn from your adventure. Happy 
> wrenching!
>
> On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 5:34:37 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> I did something similar with my 2020 Matthews: overtorqued a dry screw 
>> holding a front lowrider to the fork leg boss, and snapping the head off, 
>> leaving <1/8" of the shaft protruding. It was just barely enough to grab 
>> securely with needle-nose vise grips and with liberal applications of spray 
>> lubricant, patience, prayer, and 30 minutes of tiny back-and-forth rotation 
>> I got it out without damage to anything.
>>
>> On Fri, Mar 10, 2023 at 12:57 PM Brian Forsee  wrote:
>>
>>> Ryan,
>>>
>>> If you have a (very) small rotatory tool/dremel you can cut a slot in 
>>> there and then use a flat head screw driver to back the bolt out. If its 
>>> not quite *completely* flush you can try grabbing it with some vice 
>>> grips too.
>>>
>>> Good luck! If you cut a little bit of a slot into the boss itself that's 
>>> probably no big deal, although depending how deep it gets it may 
>>> necessitate re-tapping the threads in there.
>>>
>>>
>>> Brian
>>>
>>> On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 1:43:21 PM UTC-6 ryan.tre...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Hello everyone, I've gotten myself into a bit of a predicament with one 
 of my downtube bosses; I've sheared off the bolt flush with the brazed on 
 boss (see pic below).  Any ideas on how to extract it?  I've tried using a 
 drill extractor bit with my drill, but didn't work. 

 Thanks!

 Ryan

 [image: 3DE5D487-0675-43CD-85A8-74193FE2964C.jpg]

>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/74d6da74-7f70-4c24-892e-018fc9a33ba6n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 55 cm Bosco Bar

[Joe Bernard]

Ok it's my misunderstanding of "net", which I read as the bars leave your 
place and you've got $81 in your pocket. All cleared up! 

On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 5:24:19 AM UTC-7 captaincon...@gmail.com wrote:

> Joe,
>
> My pitch is that you save via not paying tax and shipping.  If you've 
> shipped bars you'll get that this is a fair deal.
>
> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 11:17:03 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Am I misunderstanding the post or is the bar $81 plus shipping? That's 
>> the new price from Riv. 
>>
>> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 7:56:12 PM UTC-7 captaincon...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I have a lightly used 55 cm Bosco Bar I took off my wife's bike and 
>>> swapped for my Albatross setup.  $81 net to me shipped in the lower 48.  
>>> It's in excellent condition,so my pitch is that you save tax and shipping.
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv Riders Interactive Map is Live!

[John Rinker]

Cheers to all! It's been fun watching the pins drop and the map fill in 
with little bicycle bubbles. 

John

On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 7:58:01 AM UTC-7 RichS wrote:

> John,
>
> Many thanks for creating the map. Didn't take long for it to be heavily 
> populated!
>
> Best,
> Rich in ATL
>
> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 8:31:50 PM UTC-4 DavidP wrote:
>
>> Nicely done, John!
>>
>> -Dave
>>
>> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 6:33:08 PM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Yes, thank you! This is great. I’m hoping this will open up a whole new 
>>> level of interaction and adventure among us RBW owners!
>>>
>>> On Mar 12, 2023, at 6:04 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> John Rinker: Thank you, fun map!
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CALuTfguBCB722BVQUCvXwtn7Ua%2BhMjViDhSiFxgbpOB6w13eEg%40mail.gmail.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Tubus Log EVO on a 650B Platypus

[C Lin]

Tubus website says it works for 26" and 28" wheels so I assume it should 
work for 27.5" 650B?


Carlos in "usually sunny but less so this winter" So Cal.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Downtube bosses predicament

[JohnS]

Hello Ryan,

The problem with trying to drill out a hole and using a big enough easy-out 
bit to be effective is getting the hole centered. Easy concept, but hard to 
do in reality since the drill bit wants to wander from center until it 
grabs. Solution, create a guide for the drill bit so that it is centered. 

Details:
1. Sack up 6 or 8 M5 washer and slide them onto a M5 bolt.
2. Using blue tape, tape the washer stack to the shifter boss and remove 
bolt.
3. Use a wire size #3 drill bit to drill into the bolt just slightly, about 
1/32 or 1/16 of an inch.
4. Remove washers and drill a suitable hole for an easy-out to be started, 
but not too big that the drill hits the bosses treads, still kind of tricky.

The #3 drill bit is snug fit for the M5 washer. A 13/64 bit is loose, so I 
won't recommend that. I used this process recently to center a hole on a 
1/2" steel rod so that I could tape it for a M5 bolt. It worked great in my 
situation since the rod isn't as hard as a bolt and I wasn't trying to use 
an easy-out. Also, I used a drill press (one of my favorite tools).

Good luck,
John

On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 12:44:20 PM UTC-4 ryan.tre...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks all for your suggestions!  I really appreciate it.  I did work on 
> this over the weekend, but unfortunately could not get it out.  At first, I 
> tried the slotting method - using a Dremel tool to cut a small slot in 
> bolt, which I successfully did.  I also added some lube and let it sit 
> overnight.  When I went to unscrew it, it wouldn't budge though.  I think 
> it's just torqued in there really tight.  I don't have a blow torch, and 
> didn't want to make the situation worse by potentially damaging the tubes 
> or paint with this method.  It's hard to see in the picture, but there 
> really was absolutely nothing to grab onto, it was exactly flush with the 
> boss.  I did try hammering it a bit to try to rotate it, but it still 
> wouldn't move.  I might just try using some adhesive to glue on the stop on 
> that side.  I don't ever plan on putting a shift lever there, so it'll 
> probably be ok.  The biggest takeaway for me is to grease up the bolts and 
> rotate them in and a out a few times, and to STOP screwing it in when I 
> feel a lot of resistance. I am going to be much more careful whenever I 
> tighten bolts from now on for sure!
>
> Ryan
>
> On Saturday, March 11, 2023 at 12:26:18 PM UTC-7 steve...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Ryan -Oh yeah - been there, done that!Here's one more trick you 
>> can try that I've had success with. Start with lube as suggested (maybe lay 
>> the frame on its side so gravity can promote penetration of the lube). 
>> Apply some "gentle heat" with something like a hair blow dryer. After the 
>> lube has had a chance to penetrate and you have it warmed it up use a punch 
>> or similar tool (small drift or even a screw driver) and wedge the tip into 
>> the dimple your drill bit formed (it looks like you may have one right on 
>> the edge of the sheared bolt) Hold the punch with a  firm grasp and begin 
>> tapping it with a small hammer. The punch should be angled as much as 
>> possible to direct the torque counterclockwise. Tap, tap tap - It will take 
>> at least a few dozen strikes. You may want to mask off the surrounding down 
>> tube with cardboard and  tape to protect it in case the tip of the punch 
>> slips. 
>>
>> Let us know what works so we can all learn from your adventure. Happy 
>> wrenching!
>>
>> On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 5:34:37 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> I did something similar with my 2020 Matthews: overtorqued a dry screw 
>>> holding a front lowrider to the fork leg boss, and snapping the head off, 
>>> leaving <1/8" of the shaft protruding. It was just barely enough to grab 
>>> securely with needle-nose vise grips and with liberal applications of spray 
>>> lubricant, patience, prayer, and 30 minutes of tiny back-and-forth rotation 
>>> I got it out without damage to anything.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Mar 10, 2023 at 12:57 PM Brian Forsee  wrote:
>>>
 Ryan,

 If you have a (very) small rotatory tool/dremel you can cut a slot in 
 there and then use a flat head screw driver to back the bolt out. If its 
 not quite *completely* flush you can try grabbing it with some vice 
 grips too.

 Good luck! If you cut a little bit of a slot into the boss itself 
 that's probably no big deal, although depending how deep it gets it may 
 necessitate re-tapping the threads in there.


 Brian

 On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 1:43:21 PM UTC-6 ryan.tre...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Hello everyone, I've gotten myself into a bit of a predicament with 
> one of my downtube bosses; I've sheared off the bolt flush with the 
> brazed 
> on boss (see pic below).  Any ideas on how to extract it?  I've tried 
> using 
> a drill extractor bit with my drill, but didn't work. 
>
> Thanks!
>

[RBW] Re: FS: Paul Mini-Moto Brakeset (Front/Rear) in Silver

[Michael Ullmer]

Bump on these, lots of interest but no follow-throughs.

On Saturday, March 11, 2023 at 4:09:01 PM UTC-6 Michael Ullmer wrote:

> Cross-posting from i-bob
>
> I picked these up to see if they would fit on my 650b Trek conversion with 
> 42mm Tires and Fenders, alas they do not. In fine shape. Pads are used, but 
> have some life left. 
>
> $225 plus shipping via Pirateship.
>
> Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/xPPzijwyEfLH1FaC6
>
> PM off-list,
>
> Mike in Minneapolis
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Downtube bosses predicament

[Will Boericke]

A hair dryer might give you enough heat to make a difference.

Thanks for the drill guide tip, John.  I'll definitely use that in the
future.

Will

On Mon, Mar 13, 2023 at 2:08 PM JohnS  wrote:

> Hello Ryan,
>
> The problem with trying to drill out a hole and using a big enough
> easy-out bit to be effective is getting the hole centered. Easy concept,
> but hard to do in reality since the drill bit wants to wander from center
> until it grabs. Solution, create a guide for the drill bit so that it is
> centered.
>
> Details:
> 1. Sack up 6 or 8 M5 washer and slide them onto a M5 bolt.
> 2. Using blue tape, tape the washer stack to the shifter boss and remove
> bolt.
> 3. Use a wire size #3 drill bit to drill into the bolt just slightly,
> about 1/32 or 1/16 of an inch.
> 4. Remove washers and drill a suitable hole for an easy-out to be started,
> but not too big that the drill hits the bosses treads, still kind of tricky.
>
> The #3 drill bit is snug fit for the M5 washer. A 13/64 bit is loose, so I
> won't recommend that. I used this process recently to center a hole on a
> 1/2" steel rod so that I could tape it for a M5 bolt. It worked great in my
> situation since the rod isn't as hard as a bolt and I wasn't trying to use
> an easy-out. Also, I used a drill press (one of my favorite tools).
>
> Good luck,
> John
>
> On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 12:44:20 PM UTC-4 ryan.tre...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks all for your suggestions!  I really appreciate it.  I did work on
>> this over the weekend, but unfortunately could not get it out.  At first, I
>> tried the slotting method - using a Dremel tool to cut a small slot in
>> bolt, which I successfully did.  I also added some lube and let it sit
>> overnight.  When I went to unscrew it, it wouldn't budge though.  I think
>> it's just torqued in there really tight.  I don't have a blow torch, and
>> didn't want to make the situation worse by potentially damaging the tubes
>> or paint with this method.  It's hard to see in the picture, but there
>> really was absolutely nothing to grab onto, it was exactly flush with the
>> boss.  I did try hammering it a bit to try to rotate it, but it still
>> wouldn't move.  I might just try using some adhesive to glue on the stop on
>> that side.  I don't ever plan on putting a shift lever there, so it'll
>> probably be ok.  The biggest takeaway for me is to grease up the bolts and
>> rotate them in and a out a few times, and to STOP screwing it in when I
>> feel a lot of resistance. I am going to be much more careful whenever I
>> tighten bolts from now on for sure!
>>
>> Ryan
>>
>> On Saturday, March 11, 2023 at 12:26:18 PM UTC-7 steve...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Ryan -Oh yeah - been there, done that!Here's one more trick you
>>> can try that I've had success with. Start with lube as suggested (maybe lay
>>> the frame on its side so gravity can promote penetration of the lube).
>>> Apply some "gentle heat" with something like a hair blow dryer. After the
>>> lube has had a chance to penetrate and you have it warmed it up use a punch
>>> or similar tool (small drift or even a screw driver) and wedge the tip into
>>> the dimple your drill bit formed (it looks like you may have one right on
>>> the edge of the sheared bolt) Hold the punch with a  firm grasp and begin
>>> tapping it with a small hammer. The punch should be angled as much as
>>> possible to direct the torque counterclockwise. Tap, tap tap - It will take
>>> at least a few dozen strikes. You may want to mask off the surrounding down
>>> tube with cardboard and  tape to protect it in case the tip of the punch
>>> slips.
>>>
>>> Let us know what works so we can all learn from your adventure. Happy
>>> wrenching!
>>>
>>> On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 5:34:37 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
 I did something similar with my 2020 Matthews: overtorqued a dry screw
 holding a front lowrider to the fork leg boss, and snapping the head off,
 leaving <1/8" of the shaft protruding. It was just barely enough to grab
 securely with needle-nose vise grips and with liberal applications of spray
 lubricant, patience, prayer, and 30 minutes of tiny back-and-forth rotation
 I got it out without damage to anything.

 On Fri, Mar 10, 2023 at 12:57 PM Brian Forsee 
 wrote:

> Ryan,
>
> If you have a (very) small rotatory tool/dremel you can cut a slot in
> there and then use a flat head screw driver to back the bolt out. If its
> not quite *completely* flush you can try grabbing it with some vice
> grips too.
>
> Good luck! If you cut a little bit of a slot into the boss itself
> that's probably no big deal, although depending how deep it gets it may
> necessitate re-tapping the threads in there.
>
>
> Brian
>
> On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 1:43:21 PM UTC-6 ryan.tre...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> Hello everyone, I've gotten myself into a bit of a predicament with

Re: [RBW] Re: Downtube bosses predicament

[Minh]

oof tough situation.  when you cut the slot and tried to unscrew, did you 
use something besides a screw driver?  like a wrench with a slotted 
socket?  that could give you more leverage.   if you can get a small hole, 
a torx driver could give you more grip, and same deal with leverage.  since 
you are unlikely to need this boss, i'd give it a little bit more effort 
but at some point i'd also stop and just cover it up and leave it alone.  

On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 3:02:44 PM UTC-4 wboe...@gmail.com wrote:

> A hair dryer might give you enough heat to make a difference. 
>
> Thanks for the drill guide tip, John.  I'll definitely use that in the 
> future.
>
> Will
>
> On Mon, Mar 13, 2023 at 2:08 PM JohnS  wrote:
>
>> Hello Ryan,
>>
>> The problem with trying to drill out a hole and using a big enough 
>> easy-out bit to be effective is getting the hole centered. Easy concept, 
>> but hard to do in reality since the drill bit wants to wander from center 
>> until it grabs. Solution, create a guide for the drill bit so that it is 
>> centered. 
>>
>> Details:
>> 1. Sack up 6 or 8 M5 washer and slide them onto a M5 bolt.
>> 2. Using blue tape, tape the washer stack to the shifter boss and remove 
>> bolt.
>> 3. Use a wire size #3 drill bit to drill into the bolt just slightly, 
>> about 1/32 or 1/16 of an inch.
>> 4. Remove washers and drill a suitable hole for an easy-out to be 
>> started, but not too big that the drill hits the bosses treads, still kind 
>> of tricky.
>>
>> The #3 drill bit is snug fit for the M5 washer. A 13/64 bit is loose, so 
>> I won't recommend that. I used this process recently to center a hole on a 
>> 1/2" steel rod so that I could tape it for a M5 bolt. It worked great in my 
>> situation since the rod isn't as hard as a bolt and I wasn't trying to use 
>> an easy-out. Also, I used a drill press (one of my favorite tools).
>>
>> Good luck,
>> John
>>
>> On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 12:44:20 PM UTC-4 ryan.tre...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks all for your suggestions!  I really appreciate it.  I did work on 
>>> this over the weekend, but unfortunately could not get it out.  At first, I 
>>> tried the slotting method - using a Dremel tool to cut a small slot in 
>>> bolt, which I successfully did.  I also added some lube and let it sit 
>>> overnight.  When I went to unscrew it, it wouldn't budge though.  I think 
>>> it's just torqued in there really tight.  I don't have a blow torch, and 
>>> didn't want to make the situation worse by potentially damaging the tubes 
>>> or paint with this method.  It's hard to see in the picture, but there 
>>> really was absolutely nothing to grab onto, it was exactly flush with the 
>>> boss.  I did try hammering it a bit to try to rotate it, but it still 
>>> wouldn't move.  I might just try using some adhesive to glue on the stop on 
>>> that side.  I don't ever plan on putting a shift lever there, so it'll 
>>> probably be ok.  The biggest takeaway for me is to grease up the bolts and 
>>> rotate them in and a out a few times, and to STOP screwing it in when I 
>>> feel a lot of resistance. I am going to be much more careful whenever I 
>>> tighten bolts from now on for sure!
>>>
>>> Ryan
>>>
>>> On Saturday, March 11, 2023 at 12:26:18 PM UTC-7 steve...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Ryan -Oh yeah - been there, done that!Here's one more trick you 
 can try that I've had success with. Start with lube as suggested (maybe 
 lay 
 the frame on its side so gravity can promote penetration of the lube). 
 Apply some "gentle heat" with something like a hair blow dryer. After the 
 lube has had a chance to penetrate and you have it warmed it up use a 
 punch 
 or similar tool (small drift or even a screw driver) and wedge the tip 
 into 
 the dimple your drill bit formed (it looks like you may have one right on 
 the edge of the sheared bolt) Hold the punch with a  firm grasp and begin 
 tapping it with a small hammer. The punch should be angled as much as 
 possible to direct the torque counterclockwise. Tap, tap tap - It will 
 take 
 at least a few dozen strikes. You may want to mask off the surrounding 
 down 
 tube with cardboard and  tape to protect it in case the tip of the punch 
 slips. 

 Let us know what works so we can all learn from your adventure. Happy 
 wrenching!

 On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 5:34:37 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I did something similar with my 2020 Matthews: overtorqued a dry screw 
> holding a front lowrider to the fork leg boss, and snapping the head off, 
> leaving <1/8" of the shaft protruding. It was just barely enough to grab 
> securely with needle-nose vise grips and with liberal applications of 
> spray 
> lubricant, patience, prayer, and 30 minutes of tiny back-and-forth 
> rotation 
> I got it out without damage to anything.
>
> On Fri, Mar 10, 2023 at

Re: [RBW] Re: Downtube bosses predicament

[Brian Forsee]

If you think the slot you've cut gives you enough bite you can get decent 
torque on a screwdriver/whatever you're using, it may be worth trying the 
lubricant again. Put the bike on its side so the oil will drain down into 
the threads, and use a penetrating oil like pb blaster/boeshield/wd40 if 
you're not already. Flood that thing and let it sit for awhile more.

On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 2:14:41 PM UTC-5 Minh wrote:

> oof tough situation.  when you cut the slot and tried to unscrew, did you 
> use something besides a screw driver?  like a wrench with a slotted 
> socket?  that could give you more leverage.   if you can get a small hole, 
> a torx driver could give you more grip, and same deal with leverage.  since 
> you are unlikely to need this boss, i'd give it a little bit more effort 
> but at some point i'd also stop and just cover it up and leave it alone.  
>
> On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 3:02:44 PM UTC-4 wboe...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> A hair dryer might give you enough heat to make a difference. 
>>
>> Thanks for the drill guide tip, John.  I'll definitely use that in the 
>> future.
>>
>> Will
>>
>> On Mon, Mar 13, 2023 at 2:08 PM JohnS  wrote:
>>
>>> Hello Ryan,
>>>
>>> The problem with trying to drill out a hole and using a big enough 
>>> easy-out bit to be effective is getting the hole centered. Easy concept, 
>>> but hard to do in reality since the drill bit wants to wander from center 
>>> until it grabs. Solution, create a guide for the drill bit so that it is 
>>> centered. 
>>>
>>> Details:
>>> 1. Sack up 6 or 8 M5 washer and slide them onto a M5 bolt.
>>> 2. Using blue tape, tape the washer stack to the shifter boss and remove 
>>> bolt.
>>> 3. Use a wire size #3 drill bit to drill into the bolt just slightly, 
>>> about 1/32 or 1/16 of an inch.
>>> 4. Remove washers and drill a suitable hole for an easy-out to be 
>>> started, but not too big that the drill hits the bosses treads, still kind 
>>> of tricky.
>>>
>>> The #3 drill bit is snug fit for the M5 washer. A 13/64 bit is loose, so 
>>> I won't recommend that. I used this process recently to center a hole on a 
>>> 1/2" steel rod so that I could tape it for a M5 bolt. It worked great in my 
>>> situation since the rod isn't as hard as a bolt and I wasn't trying to use 
>>> an easy-out. Also, I used a drill press (one of my favorite tools).
>>>
>>> Good luck,
>>> John
>>>
>>> On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 12:44:20 PM UTC-4 ryan.tre...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Thanks all for your suggestions!  I really appreciate it.  I did work 
 on this over the weekend, but unfortunately could not get it out.  At 
 first, I tried the slotting method - using a Dremel tool to cut a small 
 slot in bolt, which I successfully did.  I also added some lube and let it 
 sit overnight.  When I went to unscrew it, it wouldn't budge though.  I 
 think it's just torqued in there really tight.  I don't have a blow torch, 
 and didn't want to make the situation worse by potentially damaging the 
 tubes or paint with this method.  It's hard to see in the picture, but 
 there really was absolutely nothing to grab onto, it was exactly flush 
 with 
 the boss.  I did try hammering it a bit to try to rotate it, but it still 
 wouldn't move.  I might just try using some adhesive to glue on the stop 
 on 
 that side.  I don't ever plan on putting a shift lever there, so it'll 
 probably be ok.  The biggest takeaway for me is to grease up the bolts and 
 rotate them in and a out a few times, and to STOP screwing it in when I 
 feel a lot of resistance. I am going to be much more careful whenever I 
 tighten bolts from now on for sure!

 Ryan

 On Saturday, March 11, 2023 at 12:26:18 PM UTC-7 steve...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Ryan -Oh yeah - been there, done that!Here's one more trick 
> you can try that I've had success with. Start with lube as suggested 
> (maybe 
> lay the frame on its side so gravity can promote penetration of the 
> lube). 
> Apply some "gentle heat" with something like a hair blow dryer. After the 
> lube has had a chance to penetrate and you have it warmed it up use a 
> punch 
> or similar tool (small drift or even a screw driver) and wedge the tip 
> into 
> the dimple your drill bit formed (it looks like you may have one right on 
> the edge of the sheared bolt) Hold the punch with a  firm grasp and begin 
> tapping it with a small hammer. The punch should be angled as much as 
> possible to direct the torque counterclockwise. Tap, tap tap - It will 
> take 
> at least a few dozen strikes. You may want to mask off the surrounding 
> down 
> tube with cardboard and  tape to protect it in case the tip of the punch 
> slips. 
>
> Let us know what works so we can all learn from your adventure. Happy 
> wrenching!
>
> On Friday, March 10, 2023 

[RBW] Re: FS: Bags x Bird Small Short Frame Bag

[saintruggler]

Any idea if this will fit a 50cm Salsa Marrakesh and still allow use of 
bottle cages?


On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 5:21:35 AM UTC-7 captaincon...@gmail.com wrote:

> For your consideration is a Bags x Bird Small Short Frame Bag in Coyote 
> XPac for small/medium frames.  I bought this last Summer when I had my son 
> in a front seat and my daughter in a rear seat, so I couldn't run front or 
> rear bags, but they aged out to a Burley before I really put this to 
> use--no signs of wear at all.  $110 net to me shipped in the lower 48, so 
> no wait, tax, or shipping.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Bags x Bird Small Short Frame Bag

[Conway Bennett]

Buddy, if you don't know, I don't know.  I'm going to refer you to the
manufacturer's site.


Fair winds,

Captain Conway Bennett
239.877.4119

On Mon, Mar 13, 2023, 2:44 PM saintruggler  wrote:

> Any idea if this will fit a 50cm Salsa Marrakesh and still allow use of
> bottle cages?
>
>
> On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 5:21:35 AM UTC-7 captaincon...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> For your consideration is a Bags x Bird Small Short Frame Bag in Coyote
>> XPac for small/medium frames.  I bought this last Summer when I had my son
>> in a front seat and my daughter in a rear seat, so I couldn't run front or
>> rear bags, but they aged out to a Burley before I really put this to
>> use--no signs of wear at all.  $110 net to me shipped in the lower 48, so
>> no wait, tax, or shipping.
>>
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Re: [RBW] California bike route advice - Lompoc to Santa Barbara

[dougP]

Follow the Adventure Cycling route 1 to 101. There are state parks at 
Gaviota, Refugio & El Capitan. There is one dicey bridge but it is short, 
well marked, with good sight line & warnings to cars to look out for 
bicycles.  I have ridden this route several times & consider it perfectly 
safe.

If safety is a concern, DO NOT take the 246/154 option. It has a steep long 
uphill to the top of San Marcos Pass, with a fast, steep descent on a 
narrow road down to Santa Barbara. It is a shorter alternate between Santa 
Barbara & the Santa Ynez Valley & tends to attract people in a hurry. Plus 
the coastal route is more scenic.

dougP


On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 2:11:12 AM UTC-7 Garth wrote:

> I don't even live there but in exploring the roads via google "street 
> view" taking the highways 1 and 101 are the way to go. I use the "street 
> view" feature a lot as it gives visual photos of the actual roads. 
> That said, this https://cyclecalcoast.com/rides/pcbr/ gives you more 
> detailed info about the route, including the narrow southbound 101 bridge 
> near the Baron Ranch trailhead. 
>
> I found that website via a Gibiru search for *cycling from Santa Barbara 
> to Gaviota .*
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Downtube bosses predicament

[Bill Lindsay]

You hinted at how you got here later down the thread.  Can you describe 
exactly how you got here?  The hint was you were screwing in a bolt into 
your shifter boss and you felt a lot of resistance and you just kept 
forcing it until the bolt broke.  

1. Seems pretty safe to guess you did not run a tap through the threads 
first.  Right?
2. Was there a ton of resistance from the beginning?  -OR- did it thread in 
easily, and then you hit the bottom of the hole and kept forcing it?

Either way, the recommendations of "penetrating oil" seem a little 
off-topic for this situation.  Penetrating oil is good for corrosion 
situations.  This is metal on metal brute forcing something.  I think the 
other takeaway should be that anybody who wants to pull together a build on 
a frameset should probably have a tap handle and the three most common taps:

1. M5x0.8mm
2. M6x1.0mm
3. M10x1.0mm

Doing those prep steps can avoid some major curse sessions...unless you 
break off a tap!  That's heartbreaking.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 11:43:21 AM UTC-8 ryan.tre...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello everyone, I've gotten myself into a bit of a predicament with one of 
> my downtube bosses; I've sheared off the bolt flush with the brazed on boss 
> (see pic below).  Any ideas on how to extract it?  I've tried using a drill 
> extractor bit with my drill, but didn't work. 
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ryan
>
> [image: 3DE5D487-0675-43CD-85A8-74193FE2964C.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 55 cm Bosco Bar

[jad...@gmail.com]

so is it shipped price or buyer pays shipping I guess I am confused now. 
which sometimes does not take much.

On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 10:51:04 AM UTC-6 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Ok it's my misunderstanding of "net", which I read as the bars leave your 
> place and you've got $81 in your pocket. All cleared up! 
>
> On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 5:24:19 AM UTC-7 captaincon...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Joe,
>>
>> My pitch is that you save via not paying tax and shipping.  If you've 
>> shipped bars you'll get that this is a fair deal.
>>
>> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 11:17:03 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> Am I misunderstanding the post or is the bar $81 plus shipping? That's 
>>> the new price from Riv. 
>>>
>>> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 7:56:12 PM UTC-7 captaincon...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I have a lightly used 55 cm Bosco Bar I took off my wife's bike and 
 swapped for my Albatross setup.  $81 net to me shipped in the lower 48.  
 It's in excellent condition,so my pitch is that you save tax and shipping.
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] California bike route advice - Lompoc to Santa Barbara

[dougP]

I took a look at the coastal trail link. This is the first I've heard about 
it. They note that it's unlikely they'll get permission to cross Vandenberg 
AFB in this century. Amtrak's rail line pre-dates Vandenberg so it skates 
along the cliffs between Gaviota & Lompoc. Beautiful train ride but it'll 
take some work to keep the cliffs from crumbling away.  

dougP

On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 12:57:01 PM UTC-7 dougP wrote:

> Follow the Adventure Cycling route 1 to 101. There are state parks at 
> Gaviota, Refugio & El Capitan. There is one dicey bridge but it is short, 
> well marked, with good sight line & warnings to cars to look out for 
> bicycles.  I have ridden this route several times & consider it perfectly 
> safe.
>
> If safety is a concern, DO NOT take the 246/154 option. It has a steep 
> long uphill to the top of San Marcos Pass, with a fast, steep descent on a 
> narrow road down to Santa Barbara. It is a shorter alternate between Santa 
> Barbara & the Santa Ynez Valley & tends to attract people in a hurry. Plus 
> the coastal route is more scenic.
>
> dougP
>
>
> On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 2:11:12 AM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>
>> I don't even live there but in exploring the roads via google "street 
>> view" taking the highways 1 and 101 are the way to go. I use the "street 
>> view" feature a lot as it gives visual photos of the actual roads. 
>> That said, this https://cyclecalcoast.com/rides/pcbr/ gives you more 
>> detailed info about the route, including the narrow southbound 101 bridge 
>> near the Baron Ranch trailhead. 
>>
>> I found that website via a Gibiru search for *cycling from Santa Barbara 
>> to Gaviota .*
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Sam Build - Wish Me Luck!

[Ted Durant]

On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 6:12:32 AM UTC-7 Michael Baquerizo wrote:

aware this is not the same color, and it might be even more different in 
person, those black zip ties ALL over the downtube ruin the paint for me. i 
think my bike has two (top and bottom) and it does the job well enough.


They don't bother me that much, and I prefer not to have saggy wiring. I 
thought Cub House did a good job of lining them up with the decal ends, 
making them less obtrusive. My plan is to replace zip ties with twine 
eventually. 

Ted Durant
Milwaukee WI USA

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[RBW] Re: Downtube bosses predicament

[George Schick]

1.  Bill sez, (...the recommendations of "penetrating oil" seem a little 
off-topic for this situation.  Penetrating oil is good for corrosion 
situations.  This is metal on metal brute forcing something)  Bingo!  
I've been in situations like this before, too, and have found "penetrating 
lubricant" to be next to useless.  You just can't work enough in between 
the jammed threads to make any difference.  Current case in point - I'm 
trying to get the drums off the rear brakes of my truck to inspect (I 
detect squealing from back there) and I can't budge them.  I've tried 
spraying PB Blast'r between the wheel studs and the outer surface of the 
drum - no dice.  Next step is going to be using a short piece of rebar I've 
filed a conical surface onto the end of, work it in between the rear edge 
of the drum and back plate, and bang the crap out of it with a sledge.

2.  In addition to the rest of the replies, if you do need to chase the 
threads be sure to use a light oil and go one turn in and back out a half 
turn for each inward turn to clear the tap or it may get stuck in there and 
break off.
On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 3:00:05 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> You hinted at how you got here later down the thread.  Can you describe 
> exactly how you got here?  The hint was you were screwing in a bolt into 
> your shifter boss and you felt a lot of resistance and you just kept 
> forcing it until the bolt broke.  
>
> 1. Seems pretty safe to guess you did not run a tap through the threads 
> first.  Right?
> 2. Was there a ton of resistance from the beginning?  -OR- did it thread 
> in easily, and then you hit the bottom of the hole and kept forcing it?
>
> Either way, the recommendations of "penetrating oil" seem a little 
> off-topic for this situation.  Penetrating oil is good for corrosion 
> situations.  This is metal on metal brute forcing something.  I think the 
> other takeaway should be that anybody who wants to pull together a build on 
> a frameset should probably have a tap handle and the three most common taps:
>
> 1. M5x0.8mm
> 2. M6x1.0mm
> 3. M10x1.0mm
>
> Doing those prep steps can avoid some major curse sessions...unless you 
> break off a tap!  That's heartbreaking.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 11:43:21 AM UTC-8 ryan.tre...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hello everyone, I've gotten myself into a bit of a predicament with one 
>> of my downtube bosses; I've sheared off the bolt flush with the brazed on 
>> boss (see pic below).  Any ideas on how to extract it?  I've tried using a 
>> drill extractor bit with my drill, but didn't work. 
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Ryan
>>
>> [image: 3DE5D487-0675-43CD-85A8-74193FE2964C.jpg]
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Downtube bosses predicament

[lconley]

The other possibility is that if the bolt was stainless steel, it could 
have galled and again, penetrating oil will be unlikely to help.

Tools: I have a set of thread cleaning tools - these are for cleaning up 
existing threads, they look similar to taps and dies, but will not cut into 
/ remove the metal, thus retaining the strength of the metal. Hard to find 
in the smaller sizes, but the correct tool for renewing existing threads.

Laing

On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 4:00:05 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> You hinted at how you got here later down the thread.  Can you describe 
> exactly how you got here?  The hint was you were screwing in a bolt into 
> your shifter boss and you felt a lot of resistance and you just kept 
> forcing it until the bolt broke.  
>
> 1. Seems pretty safe to guess you did not run a tap through the threads 
> first.  Right?
> 2. Was there a ton of resistance from the beginning?  -OR- did it thread 
> in easily, and then you hit the bottom of the hole and kept forcing it?
>
> Either way, the recommendations of "penetrating oil" seem a little 
> off-topic for this situation.  Penetrating oil is good for corrosion 
> situations.  This is metal on metal brute forcing something.  I think the 
> other takeaway should be that anybody who wants to pull together a build on 
> a frameset should probably have a tap handle and the three most common taps:
>
> 1. M5x0.8mm
> 2. M6x1.0mm
> 3. M10x1.0mm
>
> Doing those prep steps can avoid some major curse sessions...unless you 
> break off a tap!  That's heartbreaking.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 11:43:21 AM UTC-8 ryan.tre...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hello everyone, I've gotten myself into a bit of a predicament with one 
>> of my downtube bosses; I've sheared off the bolt flush with the brazed on 
>> boss (see pic below).  Any ideas on how to extract it?  I've tried using a 
>> drill extractor bit with my drill, but didn't work. 
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Ryan
>>
>> [image: 3DE5D487-0675-43CD-85A8-74193FE2964C.jpg]
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Downtube bosses predicament

[Will Boericke]

Not sure what tools you have; my cordless drill has an impact-ish setting
that is good for this work as well.  Keep at it!

On Mon, Mar 13, 2023, 3:14 PM Minh  wrote:

> oof tough situation.  when you cut the slot and tried to unscrew, did you
> use something besides a screw driver?  like a wrench with a slotted
> socket?  that could give you more leverage.   if you can get a small hole,
> a torx driver could give you more grip, and same deal with leverage.  since
> you are unlikely to need this boss, i'd give it a little bit more effort
> but at some point i'd also stop and just cover it up and leave it alone.
>
> On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 3:02:44 PM UTC-4 wboe...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> A hair dryer might give you enough heat to make a difference.
>>
>> Thanks for the drill guide tip, John.  I'll definitely use that in the
>> future.
>>
>> Will
>>
>> On Mon, Mar 13, 2023 at 2:08 PM JohnS  wrote:
>>
>>> Hello Ryan,
>>>
>>> The problem with trying to drill out a hole and using a big enough
>>> easy-out bit to be effective is getting the hole centered. Easy concept,
>>> but hard to do in reality since the drill bit wants to wander from center
>>> until it grabs. Solution, create a guide for the drill bit so that it is
>>> centered.
>>>
>>> Details:
>>> 1. Sack up 6 or 8 M5 washer and slide them onto a M5 bolt.
>>> 2. Using blue tape, tape the washer stack to the shifter boss and remove
>>> bolt.
>>> 3. Use a wire size #3 drill bit to drill into the bolt just slightly,
>>> about 1/32 or 1/16 of an inch.
>>> 4. Remove washers and drill a suitable hole for an easy-out to be
>>> started, but not too big that the drill hits the bosses treads, still kind
>>> of tricky.
>>>
>>> The #3 drill bit is snug fit for the M5 washer. A 13/64 bit is loose, so
>>> I won't recommend that. I used this process recently to center a hole on a
>>> 1/2" steel rod so that I could tape it for a M5 bolt. It worked great in my
>>> situation since the rod isn't as hard as a bolt and I wasn't trying to use
>>> an easy-out. Also, I used a drill press (one of my favorite tools).
>>>
>>> Good luck,
>>> John
>>>
>>> On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 12:44:20 PM UTC-4 ryan.tre...@gmail.com
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Thanks all for your suggestions!  I really appreciate it.  I did work
 on this over the weekend, but unfortunately could not get it out.  At
 first, I tried the slotting method - using a Dremel tool to cut a small
 slot in bolt, which I successfully did.  I also added some lube and let it
 sit overnight.  When I went to unscrew it, it wouldn't budge though.  I
 think it's just torqued in there really tight.  I don't have a blow torch,
 and didn't want to make the situation worse by potentially damaging the
 tubes or paint with this method.  It's hard to see in the picture, but
 there really was absolutely nothing to grab onto, it was exactly flush with
 the boss.  I did try hammering it a bit to try to rotate it, but it still
 wouldn't move.  I might just try using some adhesive to glue on the stop on
 that side.  I don't ever plan on putting a shift lever there, so it'll
 probably be ok.  The biggest takeaway for me is to grease up the bolts and
 rotate them in and a out a few times, and to STOP screwing it in when I
 feel a lot of resistance. I am going to be much more careful whenever I
 tighten bolts from now on for sure!

 Ryan

 On Saturday, March 11, 2023 at 12:26:18 PM UTC-7 steve...@gmail.com
 wrote:

> Ryan -Oh yeah - been there, done that!Here's one more trick
> you can try that I've had success with. Start with lube as suggested 
> (maybe
> lay the frame on its side so gravity can promote penetration of the lube).
> Apply some "gentle heat" with something like a hair blow dryer. After the
> lube has had a chance to penetrate and you have it warmed it up use a 
> punch
> or similar tool (small drift or even a screw driver) and wedge the tip 
> into
> the dimple your drill bit formed (it looks like you may have one right on
> the edge of the sheared bolt) Hold the punch with a  firm grasp and begin
> tapping it with a small hammer. The punch should be angled as much as
> possible to direct the torque counterclockwise. Tap, tap tap - It will 
> take
> at least a few dozen strikes. You may want to mask off the surrounding 
> down
> tube with cardboard and  tape to protect it in case the tip of the punch
> slips.
>
> Let us know what works so we can all learn from your adventure. Happy
> wrenching!
>
> On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 5:34:37 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> I did something similar with my 2020 Matthews: overtorqued a dry
>> screw holding a front lowrider to the fork leg boss, and snapping the 
>> head
>> off, leaving <1/8" of the shaft protruding. It was just barely enough to
>> grab securely with needle-nose vise 

Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Stems

[Conway Bennett]

I had various questions and confusion surrounding this post.  Below is what
a Nitto UI-12 Quill Stem looks like.

$171 net to me shipped in the lower 48 if anyone wants the whole lot.


Fair winds,

Captain Conway Bennett
239.877.4119

On Mon, Mar 13, 2023, 11:37 AM jad...@gmail.com  wrote:

> can I get a photo of the UI 12 to ja...@aol.com
>
> On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 8:53:10 AM UTC-6 Matt Beecher wrote:
>
>> I'm not personally interested, but I was curious what the UI 12 was.  It
>> seems there may a threaded and threadless version of the stem, according to
>> a very brief Google search.  You may want to clarify that.
>>
>> I'm still on the hunt for a 10cm or longer Nitto hi-riser.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Matt
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Build - Wish Me Luck!

[Eric White]

As a fellow zip-tie dynamo light routing enthusiast, I can say I didn't
even notice them while gazing at the bike. The cable routing? Elegant and
graceful. The front bag? A nice blend of modern and classic. The zip ties?
What zip ties?


On Mon, Mar 13, 2023 at 3:19 PM Ted Durant  wrote:

> On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 6:12:32 AM UTC-7 Michael Baquerizo wrote:
>
> aware this is not the same color, and it might be even more different in
> person, those black zip ties ALL over the downtube ruin the paint for me. i
> think my bike has two (top and bottom) and it does the job well enough.
>
>
> They don't bother me that much, and I prefer not to have saggy wiring. I
> thought Cub House did a good job of lining them up with the decal ends,
> making them less obtrusive. My plan is to replace zip ties with twine
> eventually.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee WI USA
>
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[RBW] Re: Riv Riders in Western NC

['Gary L' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Steve - Yes, Bent Creek and the River Arts sounds good. We could also add 
another ride the following day on quiet roads (they do exist!) just north 
of downtown, up Sunset to Town Mt, around Montford, etc. that could follow 
the Asheville bike routes.

On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 4:47:59 PM UTC-4 steve...@gmail.com wrote:

> Gary, May would be a good choice. September is  generally a bit quieter as 
> well. I'm guessing most would prefer a weekend???   
>
> I'm thinking a 3-4 hour ride at Bent Creek early in the day and then 
> possibly an afternoon to early evening ride on the River Arts District 
> greenway concluding with a stop for food & beverage. 
>
> Anyone want to weigh in?
>
> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 12:28:31 PM UTC-4 Gary L wrote:
>
>> Steve, I agree that July 4 wknd would not be the best time for a 
>> gathering as Asheville gets mobbed then. But if we can find a suitable date 
>> I’d be happy to help with some organizing of the gathering. Seems like the 
>> biggest hurdle is getting a date nailed down. Any summer date would 
>> probably work for me, but I’d suggest late May/early June if we wanted to 
>> avoid July 4. Not quite as many tourists here then.
>>
>> On Saturday, March 11, 2023 at 5:38:05 PM UTC-5 steve...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Giving this thread a bump -  Hate to see it get lost.  Trigger Warning: 
>>> Long Post.
>>>
>>> I've been living and riding in Asheville for 30 some years now, and 
>>> would be happy to offer some route ideas - but first a caveat. The 
>>> Asheville metro area has seen phenomenal growth over the past decade (from 
>>> 282,000 to 371,000 residents). We're also seeing about 11 million annual 
>>> visitors. 
>>>
>>> The result of the rapid growth  transpo infrastructure has been 
>>> overwhelmed. Paved routes around town and the surrounding county that were 
>>> old favorites have mostly become Thunderdome rides. --   
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JKZKjFjHDM ---   
>>>
>>> If you're still reading this - in addition to the decline in road riding 
>>> pleasantness,  the best close to town off pavement riding (Bent Creek) has 
>>> become a "regional destination". Trailhead parking can be a challenge, 
>>> especially on weekends. Having said that, BC and the Pisgah National Forest 
>>> are still great riding. If you want you can climb up to Bent Tree Gap  and 
>>> descend on the BRPW through two tunnels  (bring your lights).  Ample (& 
>>> secure) parking is available at the NC Arboretum for $20 per vehicle. I 
>>> have an annual membership and could transport up to 4 bikes and three 
>>> passengers. 
>>>
>>> As already mentioned, the new urban greenway in the River Arts District 
>>> is pleasant, albeit short, with multiple interesting places to stop for 
>>> food and/or beverage or just to gawk at the graffiti murals.. There are 
>>> some opportunities to climb up into surrounding neighborhoods on fairly 
>>> quiet streets.   There also happens to be a small RV park (with a tent 
>>> area) that the western end of the River Greenway. runs right through.
>>>
>>>  I do not recommend planning a gathering for a holiday weekend ---  or 
>>> any time in the month of October.  
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sunday, March 5, 2023 at 9:01:54 PM UTC-5 Pam Bikes wrote:
>>>
 I think we should stick to the Asheville area for the main ride.  I 
 know Wilson Creek is beautiful.  I've hiked there.  I ride fully loaded 
 and 
 am not into hiking a bike.  Mine is too heavy.  I think we should shoot 
 for 
 a ride in Asheville at the end of June 
 For those who want to do Wilson Creek would y'all want to a 2 part Riv 
 event so people could choose one or the other or both?  I hope this pans 
 out.  I'd love to see all these bikes.
 On Sunday, March 5, 2023 at 7:02:32 PM UTC-5 Gary L wrote:

> Oh, and one other detail I forgot to mention is that there's a really 
> nice campground at Bent Creek - although it fills up pretty quickly in 
> the 
> summer. Lots of chain hotels around Bent Creek too.
>
>
> On Sunday, March 5, 2023 at 6:39:47 PM UTC-5 Gary L wrote:
>
>> The Wilson Creek area is beautiful - but is pretty remote and about 
>> 1.5 hrs from Asheville. Closer to Asheville there are some great fire 
>> roads 
>> and mellow singe track at Bent Creek Experimental Forest that is 
>> connected 
>> to the NC Arboretum. I ride there all the time and it is just about 
>> perfect 
>> for a riv. It's also only about 15 min from downtown Asheville.   
>> There's 
>> also a growing urban bike trail that includes roads, bike paths, and 
>> breweries lacing through town that is a fun way to get to know the town 
>> (and the beer). And, a new bike store named "Gravelo" just opened in 
>> town 
>> and although they don't sell rivs, they are very familiar with them and 
>> always ooh and aah appropriately when me and my other riv pals go in 
>> there. 

[RBW] Re: FS: 55 cm Bosco Bar

[Joe Bernard]

The way I understand it now is if I wanted the bar I would make sure he 
sees $81 in his account and he pays whatever he can sort out to ship it to 
me. The way I phrase this when I post stuff is "$81 shipped", he says it 
differently. 

Joe Bernard 

On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 1:01:05 PM UTC-7 jad...@gmail.com wrote:

> so is it shipped price or buyer pays shipping I guess I am confused now. 
> which sometimes does not take much.
>
> On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 10:51:04 AM UTC-6 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Ok it's my misunderstanding of "net", which I read as the bars leave your 
>> place and you've got $81 in your pocket. All cleared up! 
>>
>> On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 5:24:19 AM UTC-7 captaincon...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Joe,
>>>
>>> My pitch is that you save via not paying tax and shipping.  If you've 
>>> shipped bars you'll get that this is a fair deal.
>>>
>>> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 11:17:03 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
 Am I misunderstanding the post or is the bar $81 plus shipping? That's 
 the new price from Riv. 

 On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 7:56:12 PM UTC-7 captaincon...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> I have a lightly used 55 cm Bosco Bar I took off my wife's bike and 
> swapped for my Albatross setup.  $81 net to me shipped in the lower 48.  
> It's in excellent condition,so my pitch is that you save tax and shipping.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv Riders in Western NC

[Steve]

Gary, I second your suggestion.   I lived in North Asheville on Melrose St
for a number of years - I'm currently on the south side. Those roads above
the Grove Park Inn and on to Town Mountain and then the BRPW were my go
to routes (that was back when Michael Davis owned ProBikes). I haven't
ridden up that way for over a decade. Good to hear it's still decent
riding.

On Mon, Mar 13, 2023 at 6:23 PM 'Gary L' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Steve - Yes, Bent Creek and the River Arts sounds good. We could also add
> another ride the following day on quiet roads (they do exist!) just north
> of downtown, up Sunset to Town Mt, around Montford, etc. that could follow
> the Asheville bike routes.
>
> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 4:47:59 PM UTC-4 steve...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Gary, May would be a good choice. September is  generally a bit quieter
>> as well. I'm guessing most would prefer a weekend???
>>
>> I'm thinking a 3-4 hour ride at Bent Creek early in the day and then
>> possibly an afternoon to early evening ride on the River Arts District
>> greenway concluding with a stop for food & beverage.
>>
>> Anyone want to weigh in?
>>
>> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 12:28:31 PM UTC-4 Gary L wrote:
>>
>>> Steve, I agree that July 4 wknd would not be the best time for a
>>> gathering as Asheville gets mobbed then. But if we can find a suitable date
>>> I’d be happy to help with some organizing of the gathering. Seems like the
>>> biggest hurdle is getting a date nailed down. Any summer date would
>>> probably work for me, but I’d suggest late May/early June if we wanted to
>>> avoid July 4. Not quite as many tourists here then.
>>>
>>> On Saturday, March 11, 2023 at 5:38:05 PM UTC-5 steve...@gmail.com
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Giving this thread a bump -  Hate to see it get lost.  Trigger Warning:
 Long Post.

 I've been living and riding in Asheville for 30 some years now, and
 would be happy to offer some route ideas - but first a caveat. The
 Asheville metro area has seen phenomenal growth over the past decade (from
 282,000 to 371,000 residents). We're also seeing about 11 million annual
 visitors.

 The result of the rapid growth  transpo infrastructure has been
 overwhelmed. Paved routes around town and the surrounding county that were
 old favorites have mostly become Thunderdome rides. --
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JKZKjFjHDM ---

 If you're still reading this - in addition to the decline in road
 riding pleasantness,  the best close to town off pavement riding (Bent
 Creek) has become a "regional destination". Trailhead parking can be a
 challenge, especially on weekends. Having said that, BC and the Pisgah
 National Forest are still great riding. If you want you can climb up to
 Bent Tree Gap  and descend on the BRPW through two tunnels  (bring
 your lights).  Ample (& secure) parking is available at the NC Arboretum
 for $20 per vehicle. I have an annual membership and could transport up to
 4 bikes and three passengers.

 As already mentioned, the new urban greenway in the River Arts District
 is pleasant, albeit short, with multiple interesting places to stop for
 food and/or beverage or just to gawk at the graffiti murals.. There are
 some opportunities to climb up into surrounding neighborhoods on
 fairly quiet streets.   There also happens to be a small RV park (with a
 tent area) that the western end of the River Greenway. runs right
 through.

  I do not recommend planning a gathering for a holiday weekend ---  or
 any time in the month of October.


 On Sunday, March 5, 2023 at 9:01:54 PM UTC-5 Pam Bikes wrote:

> I think we should stick to the Asheville area for the main ride.  I
> know Wilson Creek is beautiful.  I've hiked there.  I ride fully loaded 
> and
> am not into hiking a bike.  Mine is too heavy.  I think we should shoot 
> for
> a ride in Asheville at the end of June
> For those who want to do Wilson Creek would y'all want to a 2 part Riv
> event so people could choose one or the other or both?  I hope this pans
> out.  I'd love to see all these bikes.
> On Sunday, March 5, 2023 at 7:02:32 PM UTC-5 Gary L wrote:
>
>> Oh, and one other detail I forgot to mention is that there's a really
>> nice campground at Bent Creek - although it fills up pretty quickly in 
>> the
>> summer. Lots of chain hotels around Bent Creek too.
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, March 5, 2023 at 6:39:47 PM UTC-5 Gary L wrote:
>>
>>> The Wilson Creek area is beautiful - but is pretty remote and about
>>> 1.5 hrs from Asheville. Closer to Asheville there are some great fire 
>>> roads
>>> and mellow singe track at Bent Creek Experimental Forest that is 
>>> connected
>>> to the NC Arboretum. I ride there all the time and it is just about 

Re: [RBW] Re: Riv Riders Interactive Map is Live!

[John Rinker]

And Kai from (40.7149091, -73.9313736) wins the 100th pin award!


On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 10:41:21 AM UTC-7 John Rinker wrote:

> Cheers to all! It's been fun watching the pins drop and the map fill in 
> with little bicycle bubbles. 
>
> John
>
> On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 7:58:01 AM UTC-7 RichS wrote:
>
>> John,
>>
>> Many thanks for creating the map. Didn't take long for it to be heavily 
>> populated!
>>
>> Best,
>> Rich in ATL
>>
>> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 8:31:50 PM UTC-4 DavidP wrote:
>>
>>> Nicely done, John!
>>>
>>> -Dave
>>>
>>> On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 6:33:08 PM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Yes, thank you! This is great. I’m hoping this will open up a whole new 
 level of interaction and adventure among us RBW owners!

 On Mar 12, 2023, at 6:04 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

 

 John Rinker: Thank you, fun map!

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[RBW] FS: Riv Road in Berkeley 58cm

[Kevin D norcal - santa rosa]

noticed this on CL - no relation and not my size, but nice frame and 
interesting mix of parts
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/berkeley-rivendell-road/7598874979.html


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[RBW] Re: FS: Velocity Cliffhanger Dynamo Wheelset & Rene Herse Fleecer Ridge Tires

[Mitch]

send ya a message!

On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 8:25:10 AM UTC-7 Justin Kennedy (Brooklyn, NY) 
wrote:

> I have a 700c/29er Cliffhanger wheelset for sale with a budget Shimano 
> front dynamo hub (100mm, QR) and Shimano RS400 rear hub (135mm, QR). Rim 
> brake. 36h. Currently mounted tubeless w/Rene Herse Fleecer Ridge tires 
> (29x2.2 aka 700Cx55) Endurance Plus casing. Low mileage on both, lots of 
> life left in them. 
>
> Can sell as a set (preferred) or a la carte. $400 local pick up in 
> Brooklyn, NY. (Willing to ship if I don't find a local buyer, but you cover 
> final shipping & packaging.) Can provide more pics on request. 
> [image: IMG-0681.jpg]
>

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