[RBW] Re: Cockpit Quandaries - Friction bar ends for a new rider

[Garth]

Did I miss the part where the friend actually rode the Hardrock as it is to 
see how it felt in fit and function ?  It seems that without some input 
from her, you'd be trying to make her into something she is not. 

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[RBW] Re: Cockpit Quandaries - Friction bar ends for a new rider

[Joe Bernard]

This would indeed be helpful. I assumed the need for new shifters was 
because the original push-push were gummed up into uselessness after 30-odd 
years, but we don't know if she's even tried the bike. 

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 1:26:57 AM UTC-8 Garth wrote:

> Did I miss the part where the friend actually rode the Hardrock as it is 
> to see how it felt in fit and function ?  It seems that without some input 
> from her, you'd be trying to make her into something she is not. 

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[RBW] Re: front deraileur dilemma

[ascpgh]

When I converted my TA Zephyr to compact double (46/34) on my Rambouillet I 
switched to a shorter BB spindle that ostensibly set up the problem you 
described more than the reduced tooth count of your 42. RIng position means 
more on my Ram than their diameter. Mine, in a close double on a short 
spindle to reduce the Q-factor by the increased clearance of the big ring 
teeth and the right chain stay, is shifted with an improbable Mavic 860. A 
road racing pro's FD suited for large rings and a max range of 20 teeth.

I agree that on "full sized" chainring combinations, the tail of the FD 
cage has more involvement in physically engaging the chain during shifts 
but the ring size disparities mean nothing if the swing of the cage doesn't 
reach the rings as they are in relation to the seat tube because of the 
narrow Q-factor your bike has. I have a Coast 650B rando with many cues 
from my Rambouillet that has RH cranks (low Q) with 46/30 rings and the 
best suited FD when building up the bike came not off the shelf at the bike 
shop but from my drawer of curated models from the past. A Suntour Superbe 
Pro clearly intended for 53 and 42 adjusted nicely to the rings and has the 
operating range to move the cain to the inner position without concern for 
dropping the chain operated with bar end shifters instead of indexed.

The other thing not yet mentioned is the RIvendell BB drop (amount below 
the line from front hub to rear hub of the BB). Greater BB drop closes the 
angle between the seat tube and chain stay, making the interference of the 
FD cage's tail and the chain stay sooner than a bike with less BB drop. 

Andy Cheatham
On Sunday, November 27, 2022 at 5:50:52 PM UTC-5 chrisd wrote:

> Decided to switch to a 42 big ring from a 44 on a Ritchey Logic triple CS 
> (44/34/26) on my Rambouillet and tried a Skeleton Key FD but can't shift to 
> the granny. My old shimano FD tail barely cleared the chainstay with the 44 
> so any older derailers won't work. Riv says the Skeleton works on triples 
> but it's probably something to do with geo on the current models.Need a 
> short cage FD. Thought of a mountain FD.  My brifters are old Campy so 
> don't have to worry about indexing. Any suggestions?
>

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Re: [RBW] Widest tires on green Quickbeam?

[John G]

Wow, what an old thread. :)   So old one of the links points to my long 
dead QB page on att.net.  My QB photos are on Flickr now 
(https://www.flickr.com/photos/14612032@N00/albums/72157711338025308/page1), 
and I'm not even sure my old green one (RIP) is in that album, but I did 
run 44 Mutanoraptors without any issues.  I use mostly 38s now after a 
series of recurrent flats on 32s.

I have run the 38s with old planet bike fenders, but the setup with a three 
speed drivetrain was awkward.  I'm thinking maybe SKS speedrocker 
detachable fenders, which I'm using with good effect with 38s on my 
Specialized Diverge.
Cheers,
John Gorham
Union Bridge, MD

On Monday, November 28, 2022 at 2:57:55 PM UTC-5 Will M wrote:

> My experience too, Eric; thanks.  
>
> Perhaps the question I should be asking: what's the widest *fender* that 
> Quickbeamers reliably run without too much heroics in home-surgery fender 
> modifications?  --Will
>
> On Mon, Nov 28, 2022 at 2:29 PM Eric Daume  wrote:
>
>> In my experience (not on a QB) 45mm fenders over 37 or 38mm tires might 
>> work, but it’s very fiddly. A minor bump or misadjustment and something 
>> will rub. 
>>
>> A good rule of thumb is max tire = fender -10mm, so 35mm tires for 45mm 
>> fenders.
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Monday, November 28, 2022, Will M  wrote:
>>
> Hi all.  Revisiting an oldish thread.  What's the biggest tire you 
>>> Quickbeamers are running with SKS P45 longboard feders?  I have an orange 
>>> 62cm Quickbeam and wanted to try 700x38mm tires with my P45s.  It's pretty 
>>> clear that the Quickbeam can take 'em.  It's less clear if the P45 
>>> longboards can.  (Websites such as REI 
>>> ,
>>>  
>>> etc., say max tire width = 37mm, yet RBW says 
>>>  38mm).  
>>> Thoughts?  Thanks in advance.
>>>
>>> Will M
>>> -NYC 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 6, 2009 at 11:53:35 PM UTC-4 grant wrote:
>>>
 You can measure the chainstay width, inside-2-inside, at the point 
 where the tire passes, then figure howevermany millimeters you're 
 comfortable with for clearance (four is a fine minimum-and the Japanese 
 standard, Times 2 that's 8.). Then do the negative arithmetic, and 
 blammo--there's your max tire. 
 (I know those who ride less than four. if the tire is big and cushy, 
 the wheel whill probably stay true forever. Why would it not?)

 G

 On Tue, Aug 4, 2009 at 2:31 PM, Andrew Janjigian  
 wrote:

> RBWers -
>
> I have 35mm tires on my green QB that need replacing. I'm thinking 
> about ditching the fenders and going AWAP. Anyone know whether 40mm will 
> fit? It certainly looks like I have at least 5mm to spare. 
>
> Thanks
> AJ
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] For sale: Suntour hats

[Matt Beecher]

I know these are sold out, but figured I would post in case there is 
another batch made.  Mine arrived fast and I am happy with the purchase.  I 
sorta wish I bought two, but now I am hoping there might be a color change 
in another batch.  

I also have a big head and it fits me fine.  

If I could add any input, I don't think the leather strap offers much in 
the way of improvement.  It is not bad, but I probably would prefer it just 
be the same fabric as the rest of the hat.  

Cheers,
Matt

On Wednesday, November 23, 2022 at 3:31:35 PM UTC-6 edwardb...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> What’s the fit? Average? Asking because I have a big noggin :/ a lot of 
> baseball hats don’t fit right. 
>
> On Wed, Nov 23, 2022 at 1:07 PM Eric Marth  wrote:
>
>> Hi all — I made a very small batch of Suntour hats. They're on Adams LP 
>> 101 caps, unstructured, with a leather strap out back. 
>>
>> They're $30 shipped CON-US. Please DM me to purchase. 
>>
>> Thanks! 
>>
>> [image: suntour 01 SM.jpg][image: suntour 02 SM.jpg][image: suntour 03 
>> SM.jpg]
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] SunTour Rachet Bar Ends shifting a Modern RD - Need to Trim??

[Ted Durant]

On Sunday, November 27, 2022 at 8:43:17 PM UTC-6 Scott wrote:

> Your research task: find out how much RD moves with each ratchet of your 
> 1975s. Then you'll be able to better assess compatibility with different 
> cassettes of any maker/speed, as long as you get the respective cog 
> spacing. 
>

I spent an inordinate amount of time on this topic and put together a 
spreadsheet (naturally). I found 25 clicks on my SunTour BarCons, and 25mm 
of total cable pull, so each click is 1.0mm. 

Rear derailer ratio, the amount of horizontal movement per mm of cable 
movement, varies pretty widely, from 1.1 (Shimano 11 mtn, SRAM 7-9 Mtn) (I 
did this before 12 and 13 speed...) to 1.90 (SunTour).

The SunTour BarCon has a pretty small barrel, and 25mm isn't enough cable 
pull for a low-ratio derailer across a large number of cogs. For example, a 
Shimano 11-speed MTB derailer needs 36mm of cable pull.

If you want to dial it in, a Campy newer 9-speed derailer with a matching 
cassette needs 3.03mm of cable pull (3 BarCon clicks) for each cog. Or, 
combine a Shimano 10 or 11 speed derailer with a SunTour freewheel and 
you'll use right around 2mm (2 clicks) per cog.

There aren't many combo's that line up with even 1 mm clicks.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Book recommendations for learning how to build up a bike

[Eric Marth]

Hi Stephanie — This isn't a book, just a few pages from an old Rivendell 
Reader, but worthwhile. 

"One way to assemble a bike." 

http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/pdf/RR28_bikeassembly.pdf

On Monday, November 28, 2022 at 4:22:33 PM UTC-5 ericf3 wrote:

> Found it. Hey' it's over 10 years old!
>
> It's All About the Bike
> the Pursuit of Happiness on Two Wheels
> Penn, Rob 
> 
>
> The bicycle is one of mankind's greatest inventions - the most efficient 
> self-powered means of transportation ever invented. Robert Penn has ridden 
> one most days of his adult life. In his late-20s, he pedalled 40,000kms 
> around the world. He's in the middle of a long love affair with the 
> bicycle. Yet, like cyclists everywhere, the utilitarian bike he currently 
> owns doesn't even hint at this devotion. Penn needs a new bike, a bike that 
> reflects how he feels when he's riding it - like an ordinary man touching 
> the gods.
>
> So Penn has designed and built his dream bike. He's got an artisan in 
> Stoke to hand-build a bespoke frame; he's travelled to San Francisco for 
> the perfect wheel, from Padua to Provence to find the perfect components - 
> parts that set the standard in reliability, craftsmanship and beauty. En 
> route, he tells the stories of the science, history and culture of 
> bicycles, extracting pertinent and quirky stories - the role of the bicycle 
> in women's liberation, the marvel of the tangent-spoked wheel, the 
> quasi-religious admiration for Fausto Coppi in Italy - that explain why we 
> ride, and why this simple machine remains central to humanity in the 21st 
> century.
> [image: image.png]
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Widest tires on green Quickbeam?

[Ryan]

Nice! I do like those silver QBs with the blue decals...and the fender 
set-up looks perfect

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 8:22:31 AM UTC-6 Patch T wrote:

> On my 56cm Silver QB I currently have VO Smooth 45mm fenders installed and 
> am riding 38mm Gravelking slicks. 
>
> Set-up was real easy, with no crimping, surgery, magic/sorcery, or 
> exceptional skill required. Was not my first fender install, nor am I a 
> pro-mechanic. I rode a whole winter + subsequent year with no problems so 
> far. (Before, I had an orange 54cm QB and used SKS P55s - those I had to 
> bend, and came off forever when I switched sizes in 2020)
>
> So the clearance with my set-up works, but it is what you would expect 
> from such a tight tire-to-guard gap. I feel fine about it because this 
> iteration of my QB does not see much off-road or mud. I use PDW safety tabs 
> for potential stick pick-ups, and also because it makes rear wheel removal 
> easier (although the photo attached was taken before the front set of tabs 
> went on early winter 2021).
>
> If I recall correctly, plastic fenders tend to move around more while 
> riding than aluminum, and create occasional rub when using limit-pushing 
> tire widths. Worth considering.
>
> (An anecdote: Paul Minimotos clear the fenders just fine, and play with 
> that front Nitto 32F rack nicely. There's a Touring Canti on the rear 
> because another bike has the matching Minimoto on *its* fork.)
>
> Patch, who'll be using mudflaps in NYC this winter.
>
>
> [image: image3 (2).jpeg]
>
>>


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Re: [RBW] Haul'in the Goods with MouseTraps and Trailers

[George Schick]

Around these parts it's not uncommon to see milk crates attached to bicycle 
rear racks, probably with zip ties, for hauling everything under the sun.  
Not sure how stable they are - some don't look to solid.

On Monday, November 28, 2022 at 11:35:23 AM UTC-6 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Thanks, John. I daresay that more solid attachments would make a 
> difference. I'll be interested to see any photos you can find.
>
> Back to the Pletscher bolted to seatstay clamps on that Sprite: The sway 
> was almost unbelievably bad with 30 lb in the rear baskets and I recall 
> being glad that most of the return trip was on a back road and not on the 
> parallel Wisconsin Avenue on which my WDC apartment fronted. Still, it was 
> better than walking.
>
> Sprite was a garage sale or thrift store find with flipped and trimmed 
> North Road bar and 1X5 shifted by Alvit rd pulled by big chromed steel stem 
> shifter. A fun bike when not loaded with groceries.
>
> On Sat, Nov 26, 2022 at 6:47 AM 'John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
>> Patrick
>>
>> Good point on rigidity.
>>
>> I don't think the modern Pletscher is much more rigid, but the mounting 
>> is more rigid.  The folks up there typically mount the older style rack's 
>> front to the rack mounts on the stays using a U shaped piece of steel strip 
>> going from the rack mounts and the rack being attached to the bottom of the 
>> U.   This makes the front mounting much more rigid than the steel plate 
>> sandwiched between the stays method Pletscher used before.  The rack's flat 
>> mounting piece in the front bolts directly to the U shaped piece oif steel 
>> strip
>>
>> I'll try to get a picture of the U shaped mounting the next time we get 
>> up there.
>>
>> Also, I think the new Pletscher racks mount directly to the rack mounts, 
>> increasing rigidity of the front mounting.  .
>>
>> These folks use recent frames, vs older frames, and they come with rack 
>> mounts on the stays.   The new frames fit the needs of these folks better 
>> than  the older frames, which typically don't have rack mounts.  Also, new 
>> Fuji's, Jamis's, etc come with new components which work good vs 'legacy' 
>> equipment which can be hard to find when replacement is needed.  They want 
>> utility, not really 'memories'.   
>>
>> John Hawrylak
>> Woodstown NJ
>>
>> On Friday, November 25, 2022 at 8:42:16 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Is the modern Pletscher better than the original model from the 1970s 
>>> and '80s? I ask because the Pletscher I installed circa 1985 on a beater 
>>> city Sprite to carry 2 Wald basket panniers was the most flexible rack I've 
>>> ever used; I recall literally being unable to ride a straight line with 
>>> heavily loaded rear baskets. Fortunately my return trip from the grocery 
>>> store was only about 1/2 mile.
>>>
>>> On Sat, Nov 19, 2022 at 5:05 PM 'John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch <
>>> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>
 Here is a picture of 3 bikes haul'in the goods in the PA Dutch country 
 on Sat 11/19/22.  This is the back of the Goods store in East Earl PA on 
 Rt 
 23 near Rt 322.  People were out doing the Thanksgiving shopping and some 
 Balck Friday shopping.

 The bikes are used for more utilitarian tasks up there with young, 
 middle and older age riders using them for day to day tasks.

 The near one has a trailer with items from the Shady Maple supermarket 
 (blue bag) and the gentleman riding it is just about to add a bag of items 
 from Goods. 

 The second has a Pletchser with a working Mousetrap holding a wooden 
 cargo box.  Note hoe the box has a nice cut out accommodating both the 
 Mousetrap bend and his/her hand.

 The far on has a Pletchser Mousetrap holding the standard cardboard box 
 with the trap deforming the box top.

 All 3 use kickstands.   The near one is a Fuji and the other 2 are 
 Jamis.   Those folks must be in great shape!  Great to see a Pletchser 
 MouseTrap being used for what they designed it for and doing a good job.


 John Hawrylak
 Woodstown NJ

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 .

>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> ---
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>
>>> -- 
>> You received this message

Re: [RBW] Widest tires on green Quickbeam?

[Minh]

IIRC when i used the P45, i think i was at around 35-37mm on the tires and 
it was tight, fiddly.   i've seen someone with one using the flat wood 
fenders (fancy i know) and that was a little bit easier due to the profile 
of the fenders.  

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 10:33:23 AM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:

> Nice! I do like those silver QBs with the blue decals...and the fender 
> set-up looks perfect
>
> On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 8:22:31 AM UTC-6 Patch T wrote:
>
>> On my 56cm Silver QB I currently have VO Smooth 45mm fenders installed 
>> and am riding 38mm Gravelking slicks. 
>>
>> Set-up was real easy, with no crimping, surgery, magic/sorcery, or 
>> exceptional skill required. Was not my first fender install, nor am I a 
>> pro-mechanic. I rode a whole winter + subsequent year with no problems so 
>> far. (Before, I had an orange 54cm QB and used SKS P55s - those I had to 
>> bend, and came off forever when I switched sizes in 2020)
>>
>> So the clearance with my set-up works, but it is what you would expect 
>> from such a tight tire-to-guard gap. I feel fine about it because this 
>> iteration of my QB does not see much off-road or mud. I use PDW safety tabs 
>> for potential stick pick-ups, and also because it makes rear wheel removal 
>> easier (although the photo attached was taken before the front set of tabs 
>> went on early winter 2021).
>>
>> If I recall correctly, plastic fenders tend to move around more while 
>> riding than aluminum, and create occasional rub when using limit-pushing 
>> tire widths. Worth considering.
>>
>> (An anecdote: Paul Minimotos clear the fenders just fine, and play with 
>> that front Nitto 32F rack nicely. There's a Touring Canti on the rear 
>> because another bike has the matching Minimoto on *its* fork.)
>>
>> Patch, who'll be using mudflaps in NYC this winter.
>>
>>
>> [image: image3 (2).jpeg]
>>
>>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Widest tires on green Quickbeam?

[lconley]

My understanding is that the PDW tabs are to be used on the front wheel if 
only using on one wheel for safety reasons. If the rear wheel locks up, it 
does not throw you over the handle bars like locking up the front wheel 
does.

Laing

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 9:22:31 AM UTC-5 Patch T wrote:

> On my 56cm Silver QB I currently have VO Smooth 45mm fenders installed and 
> am riding 38mm Gravelking slicks. 
>
> Set-up was real easy, with no crimping, surgery, magic/sorcery, or 
> exceptional skill required. Was not my first fender install, nor am I a 
> pro-mechanic. I rode a whole winter + subsequent year with no problems so 
> far. (Before, I had an orange 54cm QB and used SKS P55s - those I had to 
> bend, and came off forever when I switched sizes in 2020)
>
> So the clearance with my set-up works, but it is what you would expect 
> from such a tight tire-to-guard gap. I feel fine about it because this 
> iteration of my QB does not see much off-road or mud. I use PDW safety tabs 
> for potential stick pick-ups, and also because it makes rear wheel removal 
> easier (although the photo attached was taken before the front set of tabs 
> went on early winter 2021).
>
> If I recall correctly, plastic fenders tend to move around more while 
> riding than aluminum, and create occasional rub when using limit-pushing 
> tire widths. Worth considering.
>
> (An anecdote: Paul Minimotos clear the fenders just fine, and play with 
> that front Nitto 32F rack nicely. There's a Touring Canti on the rear 
> because another bike has the matching Minimoto on *its* fork.)
>
> Patch, who'll be using mudflaps in NYC this winter.
>
>
> [image: image3 (2).jpeg]
>
>>


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Re: [RBW] Widest tires on green Quickbeam?

[Bill Lindsay]

Laing indicated that their understanding " is that the PDW tabs are to be 
used on the front wheel if only using on one wheel for safety reasons".

The majority of people who buy those tabs separately use them on the 
front.  Note that all Portland Design Works full metal fender offerings 
include those tabs on Front and Rear.  You are correct that there may be 
less of a safety risk on the rear, but there is still nothing wrong with 
using them in both front and rear.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 7:58:31 AM UTC-8 lconley wrote:

> My understanding is that the PDW tabs are to be used on the front wheel if 
> only using on one wheel for safety reasons. If the rear wheel locks up, it 
> does not throw you over the handle bars like locking up the front wheel 
> does.
>
> Laing
>
> On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 9:22:31 AM UTC-5 Patch T wrote:
>
>> On my 56cm Silver QB I currently have VO Smooth 45mm fenders installed 
>> and am riding 38mm Gravelking slicks. 
>>
>> Set-up was real easy, with no crimping, surgery, magic/sorcery, or 
>> exceptional skill required. Was not my first fender install, nor am I a 
>> pro-mechanic. I rode a whole winter + subsequent year with no problems so 
>> far. (Before, I had an orange 54cm QB and used SKS P55s - those I had to 
>> bend, and came off forever when I switched sizes in 2020)
>>
>> So the clearance with my set-up works, but it is what you would expect 
>> from such a tight tire-to-guard gap. I feel fine about it because this 
>> iteration of my QB does not see much off-road or mud. I use PDW safety tabs 
>> for potential stick pick-ups, and also because it makes rear wheel removal 
>> easier (although the photo attached was taken before the front set of tabs 
>> went on early winter 2021).
>>
>> If I recall correctly, plastic fenders tend to move around more while 
>> riding than aluminum, and create occasional rub when using limit-pushing 
>> tire widths. Worth considering.
>>
>> (An anecdote: Paul Minimotos clear the fenders just fine, and play with 
>> that front Nitto 32F rack nicely. There's a Touring Canti on the rear 
>> because another bike has the matching Minimoto on *its* fork.)
>>
>> Patch, who'll be using mudflaps in NYC this winter.
>>
>>
>> [image: image3 (2).jpeg]
>>
>>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 52 Clem H, Nitto Rear Rack, Trunk Bag

[Davey Two Shoes]

I recognize this bike!

On Friday, November 25, 2022 at 8:42:51 PM UTC-5 jake...@gmail.com wrote:

> Selling my 52 cm dark green Clem H. In good condition but has some 
> beausage (scratch on top tube, small chips around chainstay). I love this 
> bike, but I'm hoping to sell it to help finance a Platy. Pickup in NYC 
> preferred, but open to shipping. $1525.
>
> Highlights:
> 650B x 55mm RH Umtanum Ridge Extralight tires (<150 miles)
> Excellent condition black MKS king pedals and B17 carved Brooks saddle
> 2x8 with friction shifting
> Silver crankset
> Can include VO constructeur rack, stock Kenda tires, single schwalbe g-one 
> tire
> note: the wald basket works great but is bent
>
> Nitto Campee Rear Rack--$150
> Arkel TailRider Trunk Bag--$60
> Both for $200
>
> Google drive link 
> 
>
> Feel free to reach out with any questions!
>
> --Jake in NYC
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: front deraileur dilemma

[Bill Schairer]

Steven,

I am using a Silver crank in conjunction with a Mountain Tamer 
(https://abundantadventures.com/mt_triple.html), which can be used with any 
crank without modification with a 74bcd that requires chainring spacers.  I 
have used this set-up on two different tours (about 400 miles on GDMBR, 
2800 miles riding to Alaska) without any issues at all, which I mention as 
evidence of real world practicality/reliability.  I don't know, 
availability may be an issue?

For kicks, I did experiment briefly with the Mountain Tamer in quad mode.  
It did work but I abandoned that set-up as too fiddly (as I recall, I had 
to modify a Silver bar-end shifter and the cage of a Suntour Cyclone 
derailleur to just barely be able to shift all 4 rings) and it was 
confusing. Now, as I write this, having a 26t between the 34 and 19 on the 
last tour almost makes me think the quad might have been worth it?  The 
34/19 shift always worked both ways but I didn't really like the jump. Then 
again, I really did need that 19/36 combo, not just once or twice.  Around 
town, as a quad it was total overkill.

I'm one who loves playing with my gearing and hates experimenting with 
handlebars.

Bill S 
San Diego

On Monday, November 28, 2022 at 8:18:23 AM UTC-8 Steven Sweedler wrote:

> Bill what crank are you using that allows a 19 T and who makes the 19 T.  
> Thanks, Steve 
>
> On Mon, Nov 28, 2022 at 9:58 AM Bill Schairer  wrote:
>
>> I'm not sure I understand the "so any older derailers won't work" 
>> comment.  My 2014 Atlantis with a Suntour Vx (from the 70's?) front 
>> derailleur shifts a 42/34/19 flawlessly.  I do use a chain catcher to 
>> prevent dropping the chain going to the 19.
>>
>> Bill S
>> San Diego
>>
>> On Sunday, November 27, 2022 at 3:01:43 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> Two teeth smaller shouldn't require a repositioning of the mech you were 
>>> using. Did you have a problem with it? 
>>>
>>> On Sunday, November 27, 2022 at 2:50:52 PM UTC-8 chrisd wrote:
>>>
 Decided to switch to a 42 big ring from a 44 on a Ritchey Logic triple 
 CS (44/34/26) on my Rambouillet and tried a Skeleton Key FD but can't 
 shift 
 to the granny. My old shimano FD tail barely cleared the chainstay with 
 the 
 44 so any older derailers won't work. Riv says the Skeleton works on 
 triples but it's probably something to do with geo on the current 
 models.Need a short cage FD. Thought of a mountain FD.  My brifters are 
 old 
 Campy so don't have to worry about indexing. Any suggestions?
>>>
>>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
> -- 
> Steven Sweedler
> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>

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Re: [RBW] For sale: Suntour hats

[Eric Marth]

Glad to hear it, Matt! 

I went with the Adams cap because among guy who embroider hats (I'm not 
one) these are considered to be some of the best. And I have some friends 
who've had these over the years and really liked 'em. I could do without 
the logo on the strap and the little Eiffel Tower on the closure piece, 
myself. 

I'm satisfied with the color, bill, fit, crown, etc. 

I'm trying to find a cap that is even more plain for the next run. It will 
be an unstructured, pigment-dyed, six-panel cap, very similar to this 
round. 

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 8:54:19 AM UTC-5 Matt Beecher wrote:

> I know these are sold out, but figured I would post in case there is 
> another batch made.  Mine arrived fast and I am happy with the purchase.  I 
> sorta wish I bought two, but now I am hoping there might be a color change 
> in another batch.  
>
> I also have a big head and it fits me fine.  
>
> If I could add any input, I don't think the leather strap offers much in 
> the way of improvement.  It is not bad, but I probably would prefer it just 
> be the same fabric as the rest of the hat.  
>
> Cheers,
> Matt
>
> On Wednesday, November 23, 2022 at 3:31:35 PM UTC-6 edwardb...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> What’s the fit? Average? Asking because I have a big noggin :/ a lot of 
>> baseball hats don’t fit right. 
>>
>> On Wed, Nov 23, 2022 at 1:07 PM Eric Marth  wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all — I made a very small batch of Suntour hats. They're on Adams LP 
>>> 101 caps, unstructured, with a leather strap out back. 
>>>
>>> They're $30 shipped CON-US. Please DM me to purchase. 
>>>
>>> Thanks! 
>>>
>>> [image: suntour 01 SM.jpg][image: suntour 02 SM.jpg][image: suntour 03 
>>> SM.jpg]
>>>
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] SunTour Rachet Bar Ends shifting a Modern RD - Need to Trim??

['Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch]

 Ted:
Very interesting and insightful...I learned a lot from your post! It appears RD 
ratio is a critical variable that really deepens the analysis one would have to 
do bench top to get a feel for how a certain combo of bits would work in theory 
before trying. Personally, I think I'd be more inclined to just install the 
bits and see how they work before undergoing that much analysis, but it's 
educational to at least better understand how bits function together and the 
interplay between different parts of a system.
Thanks for sharing!
Scott in frozen ground Montana 

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 07:33:10 AM MST, Ted Durant 
 wrote:  
 
 On Sunday, November 27, 2022 at 8:43:17 PM UTC-6 Scott wrote:

 Your research task: find out how much RD moves with each ratchet of your 
1975s. Then you'll be able to better assess compatibility with different 
cassettes of any maker/speed, as long as you get the respective cog spacing. 

I spent an inordinate amount of time on this topic and put together a 
spreadsheet (naturally). I found 25 clicks on my SunTour BarCons, and 25mm of 
total cable pull, so each click is 1.0mm. 
Rear derailer ratio, the amount of horizontal movement per mm of cable 
movement, varies pretty widely, from 1.1 (Shimano 11 mtn, SRAM 7-9 Mtn) (I did 
this before 12 and 13 speed...) to 1.90 (SunTour).
The SunTour BarCon has a pretty small barrel, and 25mm isn't enough cable pull 
for a low-ratio derailer across a large number of cogs. For example, a Shimano 
11-speed MTB derailer needs 36mm of cable pull.
If you want to dial it in, a Campy newer 9-speed derailer with a matching 
cassette needs 3.03mm of cable pull (3 BarCon clicks) for each cog. Or, combine 
a Shimano 10 or 11 speed derailer with a SunTour freewheel and you'll use right 
around 2mm (2 clicks) per cog.
There aren't many combo's that line up with even 1 mm clicks.
Ted DurantMilwaukee, WI USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Book recommendations for learning how to build up a bike

[Bill Schairer]

Thanks for this, I just ordered a copy on abebooks for less than $5, 
including shipping!  How can I lose?  Looked like there were plenty of 
copies available.

Bill S
San Diego

On Monday, November 28, 2022 at 1:22:33 PM UTC-8 ericf3 wrote:

> Found it. Hey' it's over 10 years old!
>
> It's All About the Bike
> the Pursuit of Happiness on Two Wheels
> Penn, Rob 
> 
>
> The bicycle is one of mankind's greatest inventions - the most efficient 
> self-powered means of transportation ever invented. Robert Penn has ridden 
> one most days of his adult life. In his late-20s, he pedalled 40,000kms 
> around the world. He's in the middle of a long love affair with the 
> bicycle. Yet, like cyclists everywhere, the utilitarian bike he currently 
> owns doesn't even hint at this devotion. Penn needs a new bike, a bike that 
> reflects how he feels when he's riding it - like an ordinary man touching 
> the gods.
>
> So Penn has designed and built his dream bike. He's got an artisan in 
> Stoke to hand-build a bespoke frame; he's travelled to San Francisco for 
> the perfect wheel, from Padua to Provence to find the perfect components - 
> parts that set the standard in reliability, craftsmanship and beauty. En 
> route, he tells the stories of the science, history and culture of 
> bicycles, extracting pertinent and quirky stories - the role of the bicycle 
> in women's liberation, the marvel of the tangent-spoked wheel, the 
> quasi-religious admiration for Fausto Coppi in Italy - that explain why we 
> ride, and why this simple machine remains central to humanity in the 21st 
> century.
> [image: image.png]
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Cockpit Quandaries - Friction bar ends for a new rider

[Paul Clifton]

 :) 
Are y'all really asking me to defend why I'm upgrading a 30 year old bike 
for a very good friend of mine? Sheesh.

Of course I've gotten her input. Here's what she's said: 

   - "I want a bike like [your wife's] bike, with those handlebars." - 45 
   Clem L with Boscos (also a bit too big...)
   - "No way, I'm not spending that much money on a bike, and you better 
   not spend that much on a bike for me either." - We've all been there, and I 
   won't, especially since Riv doesn't make a bike small enough for her. I'll 
   split the cost of a custom with her if she catches the bug and nothing else 
   will do. :)
   - "My husband got me another bike from someone he works with, but I just 
   don't like the way it feels." - It's a 700c wheel bike with the seat all 
   the way down and the adjustable angle stem all the way up to get the flat 
   bars close enough for her to reach 'em so she's bent over riding it like it 
   has ape hangers on it. This has happened like 5 times.
   - "I mean, I've never ridden a bike that fits, so I have no idea what 
   kind of shifters I'll like. I just want a bike that's not a kids bike, and 
   that fits, so that I can put my foot on the ground when I stop." - I know 
   that that's not a criteria for what "fits", but it'll make her feel better 
   riding it, and she can raise the seat when she's ready.

I'd love to have gotten her to ride it first, but I live in Arkansas and 
she lives in Georgia. I did say that she's ridden my wife's 45cm Clem L, 
and it was a smidge too big. I also mentioned that I know her PBH, so I 
have a good idea of her saddle height, and this bike accommodates that with 
some room to go shorter, so she can get it low enough to put a foot on the 
ground. Finding a used (inexpensive) bike that's smaller than a 45 Clem L 
and that "isn't a kids bike" is not easy, so when I found one, I asked her 
if she liked the color, then I measured it when I checked it out, then I 
bought it (and I didn't pay COVID prices on a vintage MTB either, even 
though the asking price was obscene). 

The seat height will work. She'll have about a fistful of seatpost showing! 
If the reach is too short, I'll put on a longer stem. But I'm more 
concerned that even with Albas, I'll need to find a shorter stem and it'll 
impact the handling, so I may have to buy some Boscos, but I'm at least 
holding off on that expense.

The derailers may be fine. I'll probably give them a try with new shifters 
just to see, but they are absurdly heavy and have some quirks that new 
derailers have improved on. They're basically Tourney level, which, even 
new, is lowest usable group in my opinion. And I have an new Altus in my 
bin that's been waiting for a bike, so why not!

And, come on, rapid fire shifters from the early 90s feel like garbage 
compared to almost any other shifter ever made, even brand new. So I'm 
swapping them out so her first impression of the bike won't be "this feels 
bad". I appreciate the frugality of using everything as long as it works, 
but I'd rather give my friend a bike the feels good, than one with 30 years 
of gunk in it. I didn't have any 7 speed shifters in my bin, but I do have 
a nice 8/9 speed wheel and two compatible shifter options, so it seemed 
like I could get away what I had on hand, but it hasn't worked out that 
way. So I'm in about $40 for a cassette, chain, and shifters. I went with 
Sunrace shifters so the display will be on the outside of the bar so it 
won't take up unnecessary grip real estate. Either way, having an 8/9/10 
speed wheel on it will be a little more future proof. 

The cantilever brakes work ok, and would be even better with new cables, 
but the pads are crispy and the levers that were on there were plastic!! I 
have v brakes, new pads, and nice Tektro levers in my bin that will feel 
better anyway. I actually got the levers and brakes for free to begin with, 
so it's actually cheaper for me to replace the whole setup than buy new 
cantilever pads. 

The bike IS in mostly good shape. I love the paint. A good friend of mine 
had the men's version with a similar paint scheme when we were in middle 
school. It's got me nostalgic. I honestly think this bike is beautiful, 
even well proportioned, which is hard to find on a small bike. But it's 
been maintained even less than it's been ridden. I've had to repack the 
hubs and the headset, no big deal. It's got a little rust here and there, 
some bubbles under the paint, so it's been stored somewhere dampish. But 
none of that appears to be the bad kind in the bad places, especially with 
tubing as thick and heavy as this bike has. The cables, chain, brake pads, 
and saddle were probably original! The previous owner (not the first) 
basically got a shop to make sure it was safe and replaced the pedals and 
grips. She then backed her car into a pole with it on the rear rack and 
ruined the front wheel. Thankfully the fork is fine.

My friend wants a bike! She's talks about i

[RBW] Re: Book recommendations for learning how to build up a bike

[Paul Clifton]

My experience with bike mechanic books is that they all say the same stuff, 
but in different ways, with different styles of illustrations or 
photographs, and in varying degrees of detail. It might be worth a trip to 
the library to flip through a few of them and see what jives with your 
experience and preferences.

The one I used as a kid was called something like "How to fix your bicycle" 
and it just confused me (and my dad who is a competent mechanic). So 
definitely skim anything you can before you buy it.

The content I would really want in a book is tips and tricks, like how to 
hold everything just right to get the cable tension for my brakes perfect 
and what parts are compatible with other parts (like using a 9 speed chain 
on 8 speed cassettes, or using Shimano road shifters with mountain 
derailers). I don't know of a book that has that stuff, but I bet there is 
one out there that does.

Paul in AR

On Monday, November 28, 2022 at 9:08:04 AM UTC-6 Stephanie A. wrote:

> As I continue to change things on my current bike, I've realize that what 
> I really want is a book that helps me understand building up and 
> maintaining a bike. YouTube videos and helpful websites are great. I'm so 
> thankful that they exist. But my brain craves a single, cohesively written 
> text I can easily read through and turn to when I'm thinking about changing 
> shifters, selecting different drivetrain parts, understanding geometry, 
> taking apart bikes, wiring, and making adjustments. I really only see 
> myself dealing with non-fixie commuters and touring bikes.
>
> I found a book online called *How to Build a Bike (in a Weekend)* by Alan 
> Anderson with illustrations by Lee John Phillips. Has anyone used this? 
> Does anyone have other suggestions?
>
>

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Re: [RBW] SunTour Rachet Bar Ends shifting a Modern RD - Need to Trim??

[Ted Durant]

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 11:54:11 AM UTC-6 Scott wrote:

> ... It appears RD ratio is a critical variable that really deepens the 
> analysis one would have to do bench top to get a feel for how a certain 
> combo of bits would work in theory before trying. Personally, I think I'd 
> be more inclined to just install the bits and see how they work before 
> undergoing that much analysis, but it's educational to at least better 
> understand how bits function together and the interplay between different 
> parts of a system.
>

Exactly! It's not like I used a super-accurate digital measuring device to 
come up with the numbers. When you're talking .1 mm, you can understand why 
it's hard to make a cable-shifting indexed system work reliably on tightly 
packed gears. I was able to confirm on the road my spreadsheet prediction 
that a Shimano 9-speed lever can work with a SunTour rear derailer and a 
Shimano 8-speed cassette.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA

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[RBW] Re: FOR SALE : TERRY/NITTO STEM

['Charlie' via RBW Owners Bunch]

bump

On Saturday, November 26, 2022 at 2:35:47 PM UTC-5 Charlie wrote:

> 2 BOLT  FACEPLATE
>
> On Thursday, November 24, 2022 at 8:34:54 PM UTC-5 Charlie wrote:
>
>> NOS TERRY/NITTO STEM 22.2 mm STEERER - 26mm BAR 
>>
>> $30 CASH OR USPS MONEY ORDER ( POST OFFICE ) NO OTHER MONEY ORDER 
>>
>> SHIPPING $10 TO U.S.A.
>>
>> CONTACT OFF LIST PLEASE
>>
>> [image: DSCF2003.JPG][image: CIMG6613.JPG]
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Ride Report: Hawksbill Slope cabin overnighter

[Eric Marth]

Cheers, Stephanie! Glad you enjoyed. 

On Monday, November 28, 2022 at 9:56:47 AM UTC-5 Stephanie A. wrote:

> A. Your pics are gorgeous.
>
> B. Your ride report has me thinking about biking beyond commuting. It's 
> ever slightly more tempting now.
>
> On Tuesday, November 22, 2022 at 6:46:56 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Damn, Jim! Thanks for the scone report, glad they turned out. Sounds 
>> great. I gotta be careful making them, I can eat half a batch without even 
>> thinking about it... 
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 22, 2022 at 6:11:32 PM UTC-5 J J wrote:
>>
>>> The scones came together quickly and are delicious… we used the basic 
>>> recipe and added matcha and fresh blueberries. Fantastic. Perfect energy 
>>> for a cold ride today!
>>>
>>> On Nov 20, 2022, at 11:25 AM, Eric Marth  wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks, Jim! A friend asked for the packing list so I figured I'd go for 
>>> it. When I've read other ride reports I've thought "I wouldn't mind reading 
>>> a complete list of what they brought." 
>>>
>>> The scone recipe is from America's Test Kitchen, I've used it for years. 
>>> I've made it with dried cherries, currants and, my fave, crystalized dried 
>>> ginger. Recipe attached. The soup is from Alice Waters's Art of Simple 
>>> Food. Will Keating asked for the recipe so I already have a scan, attached. 
>>> The recipe is altered slightly from another with a lot of "if this, then 
>>> that" so I simplified with an index card which helps me out. Paul seemed to 
>>> really like it. This is a standard for me and something I make a few times 
>>> a year going back a decade. This time the squash was a volunteer that grew 
>>> out of our compost pile. 
>>>
>>> I'm glad you enjoyed, Brian. Paul might be around to chime in. I know he 
>>> dislikes racks! He definitely packed way lighter than me but didn't weigh 
>>> his load. He had a medium Sackville Saddlesack and a rectangular Sackville 
>>> bag that's very similar to the old Riv Brand-V handlebar bag. He also rode 
>>> with a lightweight nylon backpack which had some extra layers. 
>>>
>>> I def enjoy glass, ceramics and metal for drinking. I'll pack plastic if 
>>> I have to! I love my AeroPress, the simplicity, size and quality of coffee 
>>> I cannot beat. Also great that it makes a cup at a time. I use it at home 
>>> for every cup of coffee. 
>>>
>>> On Sunday, November 20, 2022 at 9:41:58 AM UTC-5 brok...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Excellent ride report, as always Eric! I appreciate the little details 
 you choose to include. As a fellow swoopy hillibike rider, I am curious a 
 bit about your companion’s setup on his Susie and his experience. Maybe 
 you 
 can convince him to share his perspective too. It would be really cool to 
 have two different perspectives and setups from the same ride!

 I am right there with you on the aversion to drinking from plastic 
 these days. Something has changed with me these past few years where I 
 have 
 started phasing out all my plastic drinking containers because when I use 
 them, I seem to strongly taste the plastic and it really turns me off. I 
 don’t think it is related to COVID or anything because to my knowledge I 
 still have not been infected by it. But something has definitely changed, 
 and as a result I’ve switched to all-stainless or titanium drinking 
 vessels. The only pass I give is to my trusty Aeropress, because the 
 coffee 
 it makes is just too damn good!

 On Saturday, November 19, 2022 at 10:52:52 PM UTC-5 J J wrote:

> Eric, thanks for the report. It was nicely structured and written with 
> such gentle thoughtfulness. Thanks also for sharing your packing list in 
> so 
> much detail. I wonder if there have ever been recipe exchange threads on 
> this forum: what to prepare to eat when you’re taking a ride on your 
> Rivendell :) The scones and soup sounded delicious! Your report inspired 
> a 
> strong urge to ride. 
>
> Jim
>
> On Nov 19, 2022, at 21:24, MoVelo  wrote:
>
> Excellent report. Thanks for sharing with us what sounds like an epic 
> adventure.
>
>
>
> On Saturday, November 19, 2022 at 3:15:59 PM UTC-6 
> alancrai...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Great report. Sounds like a fantastic ride and near perfect 
>> accommodations for a rustic overnighter. Thanks for sharing! 
>>
>> On Saturday, November 19, 2022 at 6:44:49 AM UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, brizbarn. Overpacking is my strong suit regardless of where 
>>> I'm going or for how long! 
>>>
>>> I haven't been tested in a laboratory setting but I think I'm sweat 
>>> at an unusually high rate. Has always been true of me. I was definitely 
>>> quite thirsty at the end of the day and would have preferred to drink 
>>> even 
>>> more water as the cabin dried out from the woodstove.

Re: [RBW] SunTour Rachet Bar Ends shifting a Modern RD - Need to Trim??

['John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Ted

Thanks very much for the detailed explanation and 25mm of cable pull for 
the SunTour barcons

Did you measure the RD ratio's or are they a published value somewhere??

Do you happen to know the ratio for a Shimano Deore M-591-SGS??  I have 
this with a Shimano 9sp road cassette (4.34mm cog spacing).   The RD ratio 
would have to greater than 1.39 for the SunTour barcon 25mm travel to shift 
the 8 cog spacings on the 9 speed cassette   (8 * 4.34)/25 = 1.39

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 9:04:58 AM UTC-5 Ted Durant wrote:

> On Sunday, November 27, 2022 at 8:43:17 PM UTC-6 Scott wrote:
>
>> Your research task: find out how much RD moves with each ratchet of your 
>> 1975s. Then you'll be able to better assess compatibility with different 
>> cassettes of any maker/speed, as long as you get the respective cog 
>> spacing. 
>>
>
> I spent an inordinate amount of time on this topic and put together a 
> spreadsheet (naturally). I found 25 clicks on my SunTour BarCons, and 25mm 
> of total cable pull, so each click is 1.0mm. 
>
> Rear derailer ratio, the amount of horizontal movement per mm of cable 
> movement, varies pretty widely, from 1.1 (Shimano 11 mtn, SRAM 7-9 Mtn) (I 
> did this before 12 and 13 speed...) to 1.90 (SunTour).
>
> The SunTour BarCon has a pretty small barrel, and 25mm isn't enough cable 
> pull for a low-ratio derailer across a large number of cogs. For example, a 
> Shimano 11-speed MTB derailer needs 36mm of cable pull.
>
> If you want to dial it in, a Campy newer 9-speed derailer with a matching 
> cassette needs 3.03mm of cable pull (3 BarCon clicks) for each cog. Or, 
> combine a Shimano 10 or 11 speed derailer with a SunTour freewheel and 
> you'll use right around 2mm (2 clicks) per cog.
>
> There aren't many combo's that line up with even 1 mm clicks.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee, WI USA
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: front deraileur dilemma

[David Person]

I have a 44/28 setup on my Hillborne with a Shimano 105 (FD-5700) front 
derailleur.  I can't set it at the recommended height (1-3mm clearance 
above large chainring) due to the rear of the cage hitting the chainstay. 
 It shifts fine without dropping the chain off the large chainring.  In 
fact, I watched a Park Tool video on proper set up of a front derailleur 
and they state that if the gap between the ft derailleur and large 
chainring is more than recommended it can cause the chain to be dropped 
outboard.  Interesting, when I set up my Disc Trucker with a 42/28 and CX70 
front derailleur, I was able to set the hight as recommended and it caused 
problems with the chan being dropped outboard.  When I raised the 
derailleur to create a larger gap to the chainring, it shift perfectly.


On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-8 Bill Schairer wrote:

> Steven,
>
> I am using a Silver crank in conjunction with a Mountain Tamer (
> https://abundantadventures.com/mt_triple.html), which can be used with 
> any crank without modification with a 74bcd that requires chainring 
> spacers.  I have used this set-up on two different tours (about 400 miles 
> on GDMBR, 2800 miles riding to Alaska) without any issues at all, which I 
> mention as evidence of real world practicality/reliability.  I don't know, 
> availability may be an issue?
>
> For kicks, I did experiment briefly with the Mountain Tamer in quad mode.  
> It did work but I abandoned that set-up as too fiddly (as I recall, I had 
> to modify a Silver bar-end shifter and the cage of a Suntour Cyclone 
> derailleur to just barely be able to shift all 4 rings) and it was 
> confusing. Now, as I write this, having a 26t between the 34 and 19 on the 
> last tour almost makes me think the quad might have been worth it?  The 
> 34/19 shift always worked both ways but I didn't really like the jump. Then 
> again, I really did need that 19/36 combo, not just once or twice.  Around 
> town, as a quad it was total overkill.
>
> I'm one who loves playing with my gearing and hates experimenting with 
> handlebars.
>
> Bill S 
> San Diego
>
> On Monday, November 28, 2022 at 8:18:23 AM UTC-8 Steven Sweedler wrote:
>
>> Bill what crank are you using that allows a 19 T and who makes the 19 T.  
>> Thanks, Steve 
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 28, 2022 at 9:58 AM Bill Schairer  wrote:
>>
>>> I'm not sure I understand the "so any older derailers won't work" 
>>> comment.  My 2014 Atlantis with a Suntour Vx (from the 70's?) front 
>>> derailleur shifts a 42/34/19 flawlessly.  I do use a chain catcher to 
>>> prevent dropping the chain going to the 19.
>>>
>>> Bill S
>>> San Diego
>>>
>>> On Sunday, November 27, 2022 at 3:01:43 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
 Two teeth smaller shouldn't require a repositioning of the mech you 
 were using. Did you have a problem with it? 

 On Sunday, November 27, 2022 at 2:50:52 PM UTC-8 chrisd wrote:

> Decided to switch to a 42 big ring from a 44 on a Ritchey Logic triple 
> CS (44/34/26) on my Rambouillet and tried a Skeleton Key FD but can't 
> shift 
> to the granny. My old shimano FD tail barely cleared the chainstay with 
> the 
> 44 so any older derailers won't work. Riv says the Skeleton works on 
> triples but it's probably something to do with geo on the current 
> models.Need a short cage FD. Thought of a mountain FD.  My brifters are 
> old 
> Campy so don't have to worry about indexing. Any suggestions?


> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/58d8a5ab-49ed-4168-9eec-1df3541f925fn%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>> -- 
>> Steven Sweedler
>> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] SunTour Rachet Bar Ends shifting a Modern RD - Need to Trim??

[Ted Durant]

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 2:36:34 PM UTC-6 John Hawrylak wrote:

> Did you measure the RD ratio's or are they a published value somewhere??
>
I have seen some published, but my memory is that I measured them from the 
total distance between cogs and the total amount of cable pulled.
 

>  Do you happen to know the ratio for a Shimano Deore M-591-SGS??  I have 
> this with a Shimano 9sp road cassette (4.34mm cog spacing).   
>
Classic Shimano 6-7-8-9 (and 10 Road) derailers are 1.72.
 

> The RD ratio would have to greater than 1.39 for the SunTour barcon 25mm 
> travel to shift the 8 cog spacings on the 9 speed cassette   (8 * 4.34)/25 
> = 1.39
>
Well, I have Shimano 9 at 4.35, not 4.34, but otherwise I concur :-) My 
spreadsheet says you need 20.2mm of cable pull to shift a Shimano 9-sp 
derailer across a Shimano 9-sp cog set, so BarCons should have plenty of 
capacity. Just don't try to put a SRAM road derailer on that setup - you'll 
be a couple mm short.  

Newer derailers are using lower actuation ratios so that more cable pull is 
required for each shift, so that there is more room for error. So, any 
derailer that pre-dates the 11-speed era, other than SRAM "Exact Actuation" 
will probably be a good match with BarCons.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA 

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Re: [RBW] SunTour Rachet Bar Ends shifting a Modern RD - Need to Trim??

['Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch]

John:
How about using your 9 speed cassette as an 8 speed by adjusting out lowest or 
highest gear with a limit screw, assuming you can so without one of those gears?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Nov 29, 2022 at 2:00 PM, Ted Durant wrote:   On 
Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 2:36:34 PM UTC-6 John Hawrylak wrote:

Did you measure the RD ratio's or are they a published value somewhere??
I have seen some published, but my memory is that I measured them from the 
total distance between cogs and the total amount of cable pulled. 
 Do you happen to know the ratio for a Shimano Deore M-591-SGS??  I have this 
with a Shimano 9sp road cassette (4.34mm cog spacing).   
Classic Shimano 6-7-8-9 (and 10 Road) derailers are 1.72. 
The RD ratio would have to greater than 1.39 for the SunTour barcon 25mm travel 
to shift the 8 cog spacings on the 9 speed cassette   (8 * 4.34)/25 = 1.39
Well, I have Shimano 9 at 4.35, not 4.34, but otherwise I concur :-) My 
spreadsheet says you need 20.2mm of cable pull to shift a Shimano 9-sp derailer 
across a Shimano 9-sp cog set, so BarCons should have plenty of capacity. Just 
don't try to put a SRAM road derailer on that setup - you'll be a couple mm 
short.  
Newer derailers are using lower actuation ratios so that more cable pull is 
required for each shift, so that there is more room for error. So, any derailer 
that pre-dates the 11-speed era, other than SRAM "Exact Actuation" will 
probably be a good match with BarCons.
Ted DurantMilwaukee, WI USA 

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Re: [RBW] Re: front deraileur dilemma

[Steven Sweedler]

Thanks Bill, the mountain tamer were popular around here years ago, even a
few quads, I am satisfied with my 20 T (58 bcd) to a 34, it usually gets me
up the hill.
Steve
On Tue, Nov 29, 2022 at 12:39 PM Bill Schairer  wrote:

> Steven,
>
> I am using a Silver crank in conjunction with a Mountain Tamer (
> https://abundantadventures.com/mt_triple.html), which can be used with
> any crank without modification with a 74bcd that requires chainring
> spacers.  I have used this set-up on two different tours (about 400 miles
> on GDMBR, 2800 miles riding to Alaska) without any issues at all, which I
> mention as evidence of real world practicality/reliability.  I don't know,
> availability may be an issue?
>
> For kicks, I did experiment briefly with the Mountain Tamer in quad mode.
> It did work but I abandoned that set-up as too fiddly (as I recall, I had
> to modify a Silver bar-end shifter and the cage of a Suntour Cyclone
> derailleur to just barely be able to shift all 4 rings) and it was
> confusing. Now, as I write this, having a 26t between the 34 and 19 on the
> last tour almost makes me think the quad might have been worth it?  The
> 34/19 shift always worked both ways but I didn't really like the jump. Then
> again, I really did need that 19/36 combo, not just once or twice.  Around
> town, as a quad it was total overkill.
>
> I'm one who loves playing with my gearing and hates experimenting with
> handlebars.
>
> Bill S
> San Diego
>
> On Monday, November 28, 2022 at 8:18:23 AM UTC-8 Steven Sweedler wrote:
>
>> Bill what crank are you using that allows a 19 T and who makes the 19 T.
>> Thanks, Steve
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 28, 2022 at 9:58 AM Bill Schairer  wrote:
>>
>>> I'm not sure I understand the "so any older derailers won't work"
>>> comment.  My 2014 Atlantis with a Suntour Vx (from the 70's?) front
>>> derailleur shifts a 42/34/19 flawlessly.  I do use a chain catcher to
>>> prevent dropping the chain going to the 19.
>>>
>>> Bill S
>>> San Diego
>>>
>>> On Sunday, November 27, 2022 at 3:01:43 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
 Two teeth smaller shouldn't require a repositioning of the mech you
 were using. Did you have a problem with it?

 On Sunday, November 27, 2022 at 2:50:52 PM UTC-8 chrisd wrote:

> Decided to switch to a 42 big ring from a 44 on a Ritchey Logic triple
> CS (44/34/26) on my Rambouillet and tried a Skeleton Key FD but can't 
> shift
> to the granny. My old shimano FD tail barely cleared the chainstay with 
> the
> 44 so any older derailers won't work. Riv says the Skeleton works on
> triples but it's probably something to do with geo on the current
> models.Need a short cage FD. Thought of a mountain FD.  My brifters are 
> old
> Campy so don't have to worry about indexing. Any suggestions?


> --
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>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> 
>>> .
>>
>>
>>> --
>> Steven Sweedler
>> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>>
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> 
> .
>
-- 
Steven Sweedler
Plymouth, New Hampshire

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Re: [RBW] SunTour Rachet Bar Ends shifting a Modern RD - Need to Trim??

['John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Scott

Thanks for the suggestion.  Others have stated the barcons have enough pull 
for Shimano 9 speed and the M591 is definitely 9 speed.   Also, I am quite 
happy with my drivetrain choices for the 650B-38's I'm using
12-36 Shimano CS-HG-400,  12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36
46-36-26 triple gives me a gear range of 101 to 19
and more importantly I try to shift the rings to maintain the sideways 
chain stretch to <= 0.020% except for the Small-Large 28-36 combo at 0.040%.

I use cogs 1 thru 5 on the Large ring, shift to Middle using cogs 3 thru 6, 
shift to Inner ring using cogs using cogs 5 thru 9.   The ring/cog setup 
puts my cruising range (5 to 78 gi) on the Large & Middle ring, but I have 
not noticed any problems with the ring/cog shift to do it.

So overall, very happy with the drivetrain selection and 8 speed maynot 
work as well.  I looked at 10 spee, but did not see an improvement over 9.

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ 

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 4:13:24 PM UTC-5 Scott wrote:

> John:
>
> How about using your 9 speed cassette as an 8 speed by adjusting out 
> lowest or highest gear with a limit screw, assuming you can so without one 
> of those gears?
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
> 
>
> On Tue, Nov 29, 2022 at 2:00 PM, Ted Durant
>  wrote:
>
> On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 2:36:34 PM UTC-6 John Hawrylak wrote:
>
> Did you measure the RD ratio's or are they a published value somewhere??
>
> I have seen some published, but my memory is that I measured them from the 
> total distance between cogs and the total amount of cable pulled.
>  
>
>  Do you happen to know the ratio for a Shimano Deore M-591-SGS??  I have 
> this with a Shimano 9sp road cassette (4.34mm cog spacing).   
>
> Classic Shimano 6-7-8-9 (and 10 Road) derailers are 1.72.
>  
>
> The RD ratio would have to greater than 1.39 for the SunTour barcon 25mm 
> travel to shift the 8 cog spacings on the 9 speed cassette   (8 * 4.34)/25 
> = 1.39
>
> Well, I have Shimano 9 at 4.35, not 4.34, but otherwise I concur :-) My 
> spreadsheet says you need 20.2mm of cable pull to shift a Shimano 9-sp 
> derailer across a Shimano 9-sp cog set, so BarCons should have plenty of 
> capacity. Just don't try to put a SRAM road derailer on that setup - you'll 
> be a couple mm short.  
>
> Newer derailers are using lower actuation ratios so that more cable pull 
> is required for each shift, so that there is more room for error. So, any 
> derailer that pre-dates the 11-speed era, other than SRAM "Exact Actuation" 
> will probably be a good match with BarCons.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee, WI USA 
>
> -- 
>
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>
>
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/9a74b190-2375-434f-8fb6-cc30c9b27cb8n%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Book recommendations for learning how to build up a bike

[Mackenzy Albright]

Not to discourage books. I love books. Just an FYI I am a really really 
really big fan of the Sheldon Brown website. Every time. i need to do a 
thing to my bike that I cant remember how to do it i just type whatever I 
need and sheldon brown.  like "chain length sheldon brown"  problem solved. 

I love that every write up is well written. builds in problem solving and 
issues based DIY compatibility options instead of assuming group sets and 
new parts. etc. 

I wish somebody would just compile the sheldon brown website into a 
hardcover book. ISOLA PRESS. After jobst brant - here is your next project! 

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 10:14:20 AM UTC-8 Paul Clifton wrote:

> My experience with bike mechanic books is that they all say the same 
> stuff, but in different ways, with different styles of illustrations or 
> photographs, and in varying degrees of detail. It might be worth a trip to 
> the library to flip through a few of them and see what jives with your 
> experience and preferences.
>
> The one I used as a kid was called something like "How to fix your 
> bicycle" and it just confused me (and my dad who is a competent mechanic). 
> So definitely skim anything you can before you buy it.
>
> The content I would really want in a book is tips and tricks, like how to 
> hold everything just right to get the cable tension for my brakes perfect 
> and what parts are compatible with other parts (like using a 9 speed chain 
> on 8 speed cassettes, or using Shimano road shifters with mountain 
> derailers). I don't know of a book that has that stuff, but I bet there is 
> one out there that does.
>
> Paul in AR
>
> On Monday, November 28, 2022 at 9:08:04 AM UTC-6 Stephanie A. wrote:
>
>> As I continue to change things on my current bike, I've realize that what 
>> I really want is a book that helps me understand building up and 
>> maintaining a bike. YouTube videos and helpful websites are great. I'm so 
>> thankful that they exist. But my brain craves a single, cohesively written 
>> text I can easily read through and turn to when I'm thinking about changing 
>> shifters, selecting different drivetrain parts, understanding geometry, 
>> taking apart bikes, wiring, and making adjustments. I really only see 
>> myself dealing with non-fixie commuters and touring bikes.
>>
>> I found a book online called *How to Build a Bike (in a Weekend)* by 
>> Alan Anderson with illustrations by Lee John Phillips. Has anyone used 
>> this? Does anyone have other suggestions?
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] SunTour Rachet Bar Ends shifting a Modern RD - Need to Trim??

['John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Ted

thanks for the confirmation on the barcons with Shimano 9 speed.  Looks 
like the Shimano 9sp Rd's have a ratio of about 1.72.

I got the 4.34mm cog spacing from the Shimano exploded view drawing of a 
2.56mm spacer and 1.78mm cog for a 9 speed cassette.

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 4:00:33 PM UTC-5 Ted Durant wrote:

> On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 2:36:34 PM UTC-6 John Hawrylak wrote:
>
>> Did you measure the RD ratio's or are they a published value somewhere??
>>
> I have seen some published, but my memory is that I measured them from the 
> total distance between cogs and the total amount of cable pulled.
>  
>
>>  Do you happen to know the ratio for a Shimano Deore M-591-SGS??  I have 
>> this with a Shimano 9sp road cassette (4.34mm cog spacing).   
>>
> Classic Shimano 6-7-8-9 (and 10 Road) derailers are 1.72.
>  
>
>> The RD ratio would have to greater than 1.39 for the SunTour barcon 25mm 
>> travel to shift the 8 cog spacings on the 9 speed cassette   (8 * 4.34)/25 
>> = 1.39
>>
> Well, I have Shimano 9 at 4.35, not 4.34, but otherwise I concur :-) My 
> spreadsheet says you need 20.2mm of cable pull to shift a Shimano 9-sp 
> derailer across a Shimano 9-sp cog set, so BarCons should have plenty of 
> capacity. Just don't try to put a SRAM road derailer on that setup - you'll 
> be a couple mm short.  
>
> Newer derailers are using lower actuation ratios so that more cable pull 
> is required for each shift, so that there is more room for error. So, any 
> derailer that pre-dates the 11-speed era, other than SRAM "Exact Actuation" 
> will probably be a good match with BarCons.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee, WI USA 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Book recommendations for learning how to build up a bike

['Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Mackenzy:
DITTO...
Until just the other day I didn't know he passed away in 2008, RIP.
The site is remarkably helpful for tips, DIY, and trivia things like cog 
spacing...haha.
Outside of Service Instructions it's my go to resource. Crazy the number of 
topics that are covered. And, as you say, he wrote well such that his guidance 
is easy reading.

Scott

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Nov 29, 2022 at 3:55 PM, Mackenzy 
Albright wrote:   Not to discourage books. I love 
books. Just an FYI I am a really really really big fan of the Sheldon Brown 
website. Every time. i need to do a thing to my bike that I cant remember how 
to do it i just type whatever I need and sheldon brown.  like "chain length 
sheldon brown"  problem solved. 
I love that every write up is well written. builds in problem solving and 
issues based DIY compatibility options instead of assuming group sets and new 
parts. etc. 
I wish somebody would just compile the sheldon brown website into a hardcover 
book. ISOLA PRESS. After jobst brant - here is your next project! 

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 10:14:20 AM UTC-8 Paul Clifton wrote:

My experience with bike mechanic books is that they all say the same stuff, but 
in different ways, with different styles of illustrations or photographs, and 
in varying degrees of detail. It might be worth a trip to the library to flip 
through a few of them and see what jives with your experience and preferences.
The one I used as a kid was called something like "How to fix your bicycle" and 
it just confused me (and my dad who is a competent mechanic). So definitely 
skim anything you can before you buy it.

The content I would really want in a book is tips and tricks, like how to hold 
everything just right to get the cable tension for my brakes perfect and what 
parts are compatible with other parts (like using a 9 speed chain on 8 speed 
cassettes, or using Shimano road shifters with mountain derailers).I don't know 
of a book that has that stuff, but I bet there is one out there that does.
Paul in AR

On Monday, November 28, 2022 at 9:08:04 AM UTC-6 Stephanie A. wrote:

As I continue to change things on my current bike, I've realize that what I 
really want is a book that helps me understand building up and maintaining a 
bike. YouTube videos and helpful websites are great. I'm so thankful that they 
exist. But my brain craves a single, cohesively written text I can easily read 
through and turn to when I'm thinking about changing shifters, selecting 
different drivetrain parts, understanding geometry, taking apart bikes, wiring, 
and making adjustments. I really only see myself dealing with non-fixie 
commuters and touring bikes.
I found a book online called How to Build a Bike (in a Weekend) by Alan 
Anderson with illustrations by Lee John Phillips. Has anyone used this? Does 
anyone have other suggestions?




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[RBW] Re: FOR SALE - Shimano BR-650 Dual Pivot Brake Caliper Front and Rear - Silver - SOLD

[Rob Collard]

 Shimano BR-650 Dual Pivot Brake Caliper Front and Rear - Silver is SOLD.

On Wednesday, November 23, 2022 at 12:39:49 PM UTC-5 Rob Collard wrote:

> FOR SALE - Shimano BR-650 Dual Pivot Brake Caliper. Front and Rear - 
> Silver.
>
> This brakes were from a 2020 Rivendell Roadini build. 2800 road miles. 
> Pads have not been replaced. No issues with this pair of brakes.
>
> *Asking $60 plus shipping* via PayPal. Additional photos available upon 
> request.
>
> Rob Collard
> Buffalo, NY
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Shimano Dura Ace 9 Speed Bar End Shifters $65 plus shipping - SOLD

[Rob Collard]

Shimano Dura Ace 9 Speed Bar End Shifters is SOLD

On Monday, November 21, 2022 at 9:55:09 AM UTC-5 Rob Collard wrote:

> For Sale: Shimano Dura Ace 9 Speed Bar End Shifters. Compatible with 
> RD-7700 (9s) and RD-7400 (8s)
>
> Removed from my 2020 Roadini build. The front shifter was used as a 
> friction shifter and the rear was indexed on a 9 speed Shimano Deore 
> CS-M770 XT 11-34 t cassette. 
>
> Minor scuffs. Excellent condition. 2800 road miles. 
>
> FD/Shifter Compatibility: Shimano Road Double, Mountain Triple, Shimano 
> Road Triple.
>
> Two shifters and cable included. Asking $65 plus shipping to your location.
>
> Rob Collard
> Buffalo, NYU
>

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[RBW] Your Favorite V-Brake Pads?!

['Scott' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hey, Bunch:

What v-brake pads are you running, and what are your thoughts about their 
function?

I've been running Shimano XTR pads and find they have a "hard" feel to them.

Happy holidays,

Scott in Montana

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[RBW] Re: Your Favorite V-Brake Pads?!

[Kim Hetzel]

Hi Scott,

I am running rim brake pads from PAUL Component Engineering on my Clem 
Smith Jr. "L". I removed the stock "V" brakes and installed Dia-Compe 980 
cantilever brakes and levers. The pads stop solid and very well. Happy. 

https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/service-parts/brake-pads/rim-brake-pads/

Kim Hetzel 
Yelm, WA. 
On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 5:56:57 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:

> Hey, Bunch:
>
> What v-brake pads are you running, and what are your thoughts about their 
> function?
>
> I've been running Shimano XTR pads and find they have a "hard" feel to 
> them.
>
> Happy holidays,
>
> Scott in Montana
>

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[RBW] Re: Your Favorite V-Brake Pads?!

[Paul Clifton]

I like to dual compound pads from Kool Stop. The salmon pads squeal too 
much. The dual compound stop fantastically and set up easily and I like 
having the pads that slide into the holder.

www.koolstop.com/english/v_type2.html

http://www.koolstop.com/english/v_type2holder.html

I've tried a couple types of Jagwire and a couple types of Shimano and the 
plain Salmon kool stops and the dual compound v type 2 are leaps and bounds 
better than any other ones.

Paul in AR

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 7:56:57 PM UTC-6 Scott wrote:

> Hey, Bunch:
>
> What v-brake pads are you running, and what are your thoughts about their 
> function?
>
> I've been running Shimano XTR pads and find they have a "hard" feel to 
> them.
>
> Happy holidays,
>
> Scott in Montana
>

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[RBW] Re: Your Favorite V-Brake Pads?!

[Pam Bikes]

Plus 1 for the dual kool stops.

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 10:38:56 PM UTC-5 Paul Clifton wrote:

> I like to dual compound pads from Kool Stop. The salmon pads squeal too 
> much. The dual compound stop fantastically and set up easily and I like 
> having the pads that slide into the holder.
>
> www.koolstop.com/english/v_type2.html
>
> http://www.koolstop.com/english/v_type2holder.html
>
> I've tried a couple types of Jagwire and a couple types of Shimano and the 
> plain Salmon kool stops and the dual compound v type 2 are leaps and bounds 
> better than any other ones.
>
> Paul in AR
>
> On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 7:56:57 PM UTC-6 Scott wrote:
>
>> Hey, Bunch:
>>
>> What v-brake pads are you running, and what are your thoughts about their 
>> function?
>>
>> I've been running Shimano XTR pads and find they have a "hard" feel to 
>> them.
>>
>> Happy holidays,
>>
>> Scott in Montana
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Cockpit Quandaries - Friction bar ends for a new rider

[Pam Bikes]

Friction and albatross bars are great.  I didn't know how to use them when 
I got them but it's easy.  Takes 5 minutes to learn.  Not sure where she 
lives in GA but I'm in NC and would be glad to help.  I'm in Charlotte, NC 
which is on the border of SC.  I'm from Augusta, GA which is only 2 1/2 hrs 
away.  I have a 47 Betty Foy so I have the same issue.  This is the only 
bike that fits me.  Let me know if I can help.

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 1:04:09 PM UTC-5 Paul Clifton wrote:

> :) 
> Are y'all really asking me to defend why I'm upgrading a 30 year old bike 
> for a very good friend of mine? Sheesh.
>
> Of course I've gotten her input. Here's what she's said: 
>
>- "I want a bike like [your wife's] bike, with those handlebars." - 45 
>Clem L with Boscos (also a bit too big...)
>- "No way, I'm not spending that much money on a bike, and you better 
>not spend that much on a bike for me either." - We've all been there, and 
> I 
>won't, especially since Riv doesn't make a bike small enough for her. I'll 
>split the cost of a custom with her if she catches the bug and nothing 
> else 
>will do. :)
>- "My husband got me another bike from someone he works with, but I 
>just don't like the way it feels." - It's a 700c wheel bike with the seat 
>all the way down and the adjustable angle stem all the way up to get the 
>flat bars close enough for her to reach 'em so she's bent over riding it 
>like it has ape hangers on it. This has happened like 5 times.
>- "I mean, I've never ridden a bike that fits, so I have no idea what 
>kind of shifters I'll like. I just want a bike that's not a kids bike, and 
>that fits, so that I can put my foot on the ground when I stop." - I know 
>that that's not a criteria for what "fits", but it'll make her feel better 
>riding it, and she can raise the seat when she's ready.
>
> I'd love to have gotten her to ride it first, but I live in Arkansas and 
> she lives in Georgia. I did say that she's ridden my wife's 45cm Clem L, 
> and it was a smidge too big. I also mentioned that I know her PBH, so I 
> have a good idea of her saddle height, and this bike accommodates that with 
> some room to go shorter, so she can get it low enough to put a foot on the 
> ground. Finding a used (inexpensive) bike that's smaller than a 45 Clem L 
> and that "isn't a kids bike" is not easy, so when I found one, I asked her 
> if she liked the color, then I measured it when I checked it out, then I 
> bought it (and I didn't pay COVID prices on a vintage MTB either, even 
> though the asking price was obscene). 
>
> The seat height will work. She'll have about a fistful of seatpost 
> showing! If the reach is too short, I'll put on a longer stem. But I'm more 
> concerned that even with Albas, I'll need to find a shorter stem and it'll 
> impact the handling, so I may have to buy some Boscos, but I'm at least 
> holding off on that expense.
>
> The derailers may be fine. I'll probably give them a try with new shifters 
> just to see, but they are absurdly heavy and have some quirks that new 
> derailers have improved on. They're basically Tourney level, which, even 
> new, is lowest usable group in my opinion. And I have an new Altus in my 
> bin that's been waiting for a bike, so why not!
>
> And, come on, rapid fire shifters from the early 90s feel like garbage 
> compared to almost any other shifter ever made, even brand new. So I'm 
> swapping them out so her first impression of the bike won't be "this feels 
> bad". I appreciate the frugality of using everything as long as it works, 
> but I'd rather give my friend a bike the feels good, than one with 30 years 
> of gunk in it. I didn't have any 7 speed shifters in my bin, but I do have 
> a nice 8/9 speed wheel and two compatible shifter options, so it seemed 
> like I could get away what I had on hand, but it hasn't worked out that 
> way. So I'm in about $40 for a cassette, chain, and shifters. I went with 
> Sunrace shifters so the display will be on the outside of the bar so it 
> won't take up unnecessary grip real estate. Either way, having an 8/9/10 
> speed wheel on it will be a little more future proof. 
>
> The cantilever brakes work ok, and would be even better with new cables, 
> but the pads are crispy and the levers that were on there were plastic!! I 
> have v brakes, new pads, and nice Tektro levers in my bin that will feel 
> better anyway. I actually got the levers and brakes for free to begin with, 
> so it's actually cheaper for me to replace the whole setup than buy new 
> cantilever pads. 
>
> The bike IS in mostly good shape. I love the paint. A good friend of mine 
> had the men's version with a similar paint scheme when we were in middle 
> school. It's got me nostalgic. I honestly think this bike is beautiful, 
> even well proportioned, which is hard to find on a small bike. But it's 
> been maintained even less than it's been ridden. I've

[RBW] Re: FS: Bikepacking Klite Dynamo+charger setup

[Collin A]

Gonzo, thanks folks.

I do have the spare double blinky left if there is interest and you are 
looking for a spare...

Collin in Sacto

On Monday, November 7, 2022 at 2:14:02 PM UTC-8 Collin A wrote:

> Hey Folks,
>
> As daylight savings has officially ended (thank goodness), I have a pretty 
> bomber bikepacking dynamo setup for sale that is more-or-less plug-and-play 
> if you have a son dynamo hub.
>
> Photos here:
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/yxTf6ktEkReBac5b9
>
> It includes the following:
>
>- A 'gravel' headlight with a gopro adapter mount - this thing is 
>super bright, and really puts out the lumens - great for middle-of-nowhere 
>riding
>- dual USB charger (one port to have the lights in full time, the 
>other for a usb charger)
>- 'always on' light switch to connect to a son hub using the son coax 
>cable. This thing has a switch to let you turn on the front light - it 
>doubles as a quick flasher if you want someone's attention
>- single blinky rear light to plug into the usb charger.
>- double blinky rear light (can be used instead of the single, or with 
>the double for 3 flashing rear lights)
>- a couple chainstay gopro mounts, and a 31.8 handlebar kedge dynamo 
>mount
>
> Asking for $450 + shipping (probably $15-ish) via USPS priority.
>
> Cheers,
> Collin in Sactown
>

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[RBW] WTB/T: 34t 110 chainring

[Joe Bernard]

WTB or I can trade a nice 36t TA Zephyr, silver. 

Thanks, 
Joe Bernard
joeremi62 gmail com

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Re: [RBW] Widest tires on green Quickbeam?

[Philip Williamson]

Thanks for reviving this thread! I started at the beginning, and when I saw 
Clayton’s post, I looked at the date. “A… that makes sense.”

You revised your question to ask about max fender widths.
I run 52mm aluminum Velocity Orange Zeppelins over 38mm RH tires on my 2004 
green Quickbeam. The fenders are crimped a bit to pass between the chain 
stays, but not at the seat stays or under the fork. I like the longer 
coverage for the chain in front, and I like to be able to wheel the bike 
around vertically on the rear tire. Setting the rear fender up normally 
shouldn’t need any crimping.

I just changed my 37mm tires to these 38s, and had to flip a mounting bolt 
for more clearance under the 
bridge: https://www.instagram.com/p/ClkhqIjr9oU/?igshid=MWI4MTIyMDE=
The new tires freshen up the bike, and I should probably straighten or 
replace the decade-old stays and add PDW releases: 
 https://www.instagram.com/p/ClKbS02PGoN/?igshid=MWI4MTIyMDE=

I would not put a bigger tire under metal fenders on this bike. Without 
fenders, my biggest tire was a 45mm Smoke  with the side knobs cut off. The 
hassle there isn’t worth the reward to me, and a (~43?) Bruce Gordon 
Rock’n’Road is as big as I’d go in the future. 

Philip
Sonoma County, Calif 


On Monday, November 28, 2022 at 11:57:55 AM UTC-8 Will M wrote:

> My experience too, Eric; thanks.  
>
> Perhaps the question I should be asking: what's the widest *fender* that 
> Quickbeamers reliably run without too much heroics in home-surgery fender 
> modifications?  --Will
>
> On Mon, Nov 28, 2022 at 2:29 PM Eric Daume  wrote:
>
>> In my experience (not on a QB) 45mm fenders over 37 or 38mm tires might 
>> work, but it’s very fiddly. A minor bump or misadjustment and something 
>> will rub. 
>>
>> A good rule of thumb is max tire = fender -10mm, so 35mm tires for 45mm 
>> fenders.
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Monday, November 28, 2022, Will M  wrote:
>>
> Hi all.  Revisiting an oldish thread.  What's the biggest tire you 
>>> Quickbeamers are running with SKS P45 longboard feders?  I have an orange 
>>> 62cm Quickbeam and wanted to try 700x38mm tires with my P45s.  It's pretty 
>>> clear that the Quickbeam can take 'em.  It's less clear if the P45 
>>> longboards can.  (Websites such as REI 
>>> ,
>>>  
>>> etc., say max tire width = 37mm, yet RBW says 
>>>  38mm).  
>>> Thoughts?  Thanks in advance.
>>>
>>> Will M
>>> -NYC 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 6, 2009 at 11:53:35 PM UTC-4 grant wrote:
>>>
 You can measure the chainstay width, inside-2-inside, at the point 
 where the tire passes, then figure howevermany millimeters you're 
 comfortable with for clearance (four is a fine minimum-and the Japanese 
 standard, Times 2 that's 8.). Then do the negative arithmetic, and 
 blammo--there's your max tire. 
 (I know those who ride less than four. if the tire is big and cushy, 
 the wheel whill probably stay true forever. Why would it not?)

 G

 On Tue, Aug 4, 2009 at 2:31 PM, Andrew Janjigian  
 wrote:

> RBWers -
>
> I have 35mm tires on my green QB that need replacing. I'm thinking 
> about ditching the fenders and going AWAP. Anyone know whether 40mm will 
> fit? It certainly looks like I have at least 5mm to spare. 
>
> Thanks
> AJ
>
>
>
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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>> .
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