[RBW] Re: Platy front derailleur with Riv wide-low double (39x28)?

[ascpgh]

Long cage designs are trying to make initial contact with the chain by the 
side plates at a place where the most effective use of lateral movement is. 
 FD design to accommodate more gears on triples and integrated 
brake/shifters has to deal with both trim and rapid contact with the chain 
at a point that is most likely to initiate the chain being dropped to a 
smaller or letting go of a ring's teeth and climbing onto a bigger. 

Ramps and pins handle the work once the chain contacts a bigger ring. 
Abrupt movement initiates shifts to smaller rings. I think in some of the 
designs the longer tail of the FDs came from the contouring of the side 
plates reducing trim needs as you shift across the cassette while on a 
specific ring. When in larger rings the chainline is proximate to the front 
or middle of the cage but plate shaping to reduce trim requirements in that 
area of the FD might create some long movement before contacting the chain 
for an up shift from the smallest ring. 

I suspect that the answer was harmonics and the abruptness of the trigger 
release nature of most integrated shifter actions, that the long tail 
placed the initial contact at a place (when using the brand's specified 
chain) creates a wave complimentary to the pretty specific chainring reccos 
(limitations) of the package inserts. That's a brittle system if it's true 
but after looking at how deep Shimano goes in this sort of secondary or 
tertiary physical function in other cycling and fishing gear, I think it's 
for real. 

Not interested in click shifting? FD cages don't have to be such elaborate 
origami or '60s Cadillac long. Look at this one. 
 Not only 
friction but no cable either. Again why I ended up with what seem like 
obscure antiques to move my chain between the rings...because I am doing 
it, not the snap of a spring loaded device on my handlebar. Modern cycling 
is trying so hard to remove cycling as a barrier to cycling that it gets 
tangled up in its own line like a fly fisher trying to cast too far. 
Sometimes a learned skill will be required. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 11:18:06 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Andy, I think you're onto something with the long tail of that particular 
> mech. It appears to be a clone of the "9-speed" Shimano 105 that Riv used 
> to spec on their triples 15-20 years ago, and they had a problem with them 
> landing on the chainstay because of a combination of low BB (creating a 
> steaper stay angle) and 46t big rings (instead of 52). Which is to say I'll 
> bet most mountain triples would work better on that frame. 
>
> Joe Bernard
>
> On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 5:39:41 PM UTC-7 ascpgh wrote:
>
>> Real world gearing has lower tooth count/smaller circumference than big 
>> brand OEM spec. The profile of front derailleurs caters to precisely what 
>> they choose as your gearing, even MicroShift:
>> [image: Screen Shot 2021-05-26 at 8.10.13 PM.png]
>> That derailleur expects to be at a 52t chainring's radius (plus 1/8"for 
>> tooth clearance) above the BB. Don't have to see it with those specs to 
>> know there's a lot of cage tail to cope with possibly meeting the chainstay 
>> when lowering it on your seat tube. 
>>
>>
>> When you choose smaller chainring combos it requires moving the FD down 
>> the seat tube to the right proximity of your big ring and if you've gone 
>> below manufacturer's recommendations (or have a low BB) the tail of a 
>> triple may hit the chainstay. 
>>
>> As viewed from above, larger rings intersect the out angling stays if not 
>> on longer spindles. Reduce those rings' toothcount and you just bought 
>> clearance from the stay and you can lower your Q with a shorter spindle. 
>> Max outward reach issue negated. 
>>
>> This is how i've come to use old road double FDs on my compact 
>> drivetrains. 
>>
>> Andy Cheatham
>> Pittsburgh
>> On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 3:48:55 PM UTC-4 Tom Wyland wrote:
>>
>>> Um, it seemed like the cage wouldn't clear the stay?  Also it didn't 
>>> appear to move far enough for the "low" gear when I pushed it all the way 
>>> in. Maybe it could be modified.  I could re-purchase it (LBS) and try 
>>> again, I supposed.  Seems like you're all saying that most of them should 
>>> work.  So user error on my part, maybe?
>>> Here's the model:  Microshift 539 Triple 9-speed:  
>>> https://www.jensonusa.com/Microshift-R539-Triple-Front-Derailleur
>>>
>>> Tom
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 2:43:23 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
 Tom, what exactly is/was the problem with the Microshift you tried? 

 Joe Bernard

 On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 6:27:10 AM UTC-7 Tom Wyland wrote:

> OK, I'm still struggling to find a FD.  I tried a Microsoft R9 and 
> that didn't seem to work.  The local bike shop said 10 speed won't work 
> with 9 speed (which is all they had).  I'm running friction. 
>
> Leah

[RBW] Re: Platy front derailleur with Riv wide-low double (39x28)?

[ascpgh]

As soon as I posted that last item I opened this gem 
 that 
substantiates some of my suspicions about Shimano's intents.

Lordy. I just want to ride my bike as an escape from other complexities. 
They are going to force me to call it something else that more accurately 
reflects what it is if they are going to use their industrial might to 
drift the concept their way. Soon nothing they produce will have 
applicability to me except maybe a fishing reel. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Friday, May 28, 2021 at 5:17:07 AM UTC-4 ascpgh wrote:

> Long cage designs are trying to make initial contact with the chain by the 
> side plates at a place where the most effective use of lateral movement is. 
>  FD design to accommodate more gears on triples and integrated 
> brake/shifters has to deal with both trim and rapid contact with the chain 
> at a point that is most likely to initiate the chain being dropped to a 
> smaller or letting go of a ring's teeth and climbing onto a bigger. 
>
> Ramps and pins handle the work once the chain contacts a bigger ring. 
> Abrupt movement initiates shifts to smaller rings. I think in some of the 
> designs the longer tail of the FDs came from the contouring of the side 
> plates reducing trim needs as you shift across the cassette while on a 
> specific ring. When in larger rings the chainline is proximate to the front 
> or middle of the cage but plate shaping to reduce trim requirements in that 
> area of the FD might create some long movement before contacting the chain 
> for an up shift from the smallest ring. 
>
> I suspect that the answer was harmonics and the abruptness of the trigger 
> release nature of most integrated shifter actions, that the long tail 
> placed the initial contact at a place (when using the brand's specified 
> chain) creates a wave complimentary to the pretty specific chainring reccos 
> (limitations) of the package inserts. That's a brittle system if it's true 
> but after looking at how deep Shimano goes in this sort of secondary or 
> tertiary physical function in other cycling and fishing gear, I think it's 
> for real. 
>
> Not interested in click shifting? FD cages don't have to be such elaborate 
> origami or '60s Cadillac long. Look at this one. 
>  Not only 
> friction but no cable either. Again why I ended up with what seem like 
> obscure antiques to move my chain between the rings...because I am doing 
> it, not the snap of a spring loaded device on my handlebar. Modern cycling 
> is trying so hard to remove cycling as a barrier to cycling that it gets 
> tangled up in its own line like a fly fisher trying to cast too far. 
> Sometimes a learned skill will be required. 
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
> On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 11:18:06 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Andy, I think you're onto something with the long tail of that particular 
>> mech. It appears to be a clone of the "9-speed" Shimano 105 that Riv used 
>> to spec on their triples 15-20 years ago, and they had a problem with them 
>> landing on the chainstay because of a combination of low BB (creating a 
>> steaper stay angle) and 46t big rings (instead of 52). Which is to say I'll 
>> bet most mountain triples would work better on that frame. 
>>
>> Joe Bernard
>>
>> On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 5:39:41 PM UTC-7 ascpgh wrote:
>>
>>> Real world gearing has lower tooth count/smaller circumference than big 
>>> brand OEM spec. The profile of front derailleurs caters to precisely what 
>>> they choose as your gearing, even MicroShift:
>>> [image: Screen Shot 2021-05-26 at 8.10.13 PM.png]
>>> That derailleur expects to be at a 52t chainring's radius (plus 1/8"for 
>>> tooth clearance) above the BB. Don't have to see it with those specs to 
>>> know there's a lot of cage tail to cope with possibly meeting the chainstay 
>>> when lowering it on your seat tube. 
>>>
>>>
>>> When you choose smaller chainring combos it requires moving the FD down 
>>> the seat tube to the right proximity of your big ring and if you've gone 
>>> below manufacturer's recommendations (or have a low BB) the tail of a 
>>> triple may hit the chainstay. 
>>>
>>> As viewed from above, larger rings intersect the out angling stays if 
>>> not on longer spindles. Reduce those rings' toothcount and you just bought 
>>> clearance from the stay and you can lower your Q with a shorter spindle. 
>>> Max outward reach issue negated. 
>>>
>>> This is how i've come to use old road double FDs on my compact 
>>> drivetrains. 
>>>
>>> Andy Cheatham
>>> Pittsburgh
>>> On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 3:48:55 PM UTC-4 Tom Wyland wrote:
>>>
 Um, it seemed like the cage wouldn't clear the stay?  Also it didn't 
 appear to move far enough for the "low" gear when I pushed it all the way 
 in. Maybe it could be modified.  I could re-purchase it (LBS) and try 
 again, I supposed

[RBW] Cazadero, Snoqualmie Pass comparisons?

[Adam]

Hello all,

I've been comparing the Cazadero 42s to the RH Snoqualmie Pass ELs (thanks 
to a group member who sold me some well-used ones for cheap)

I wanted to see other folks' experiences with these two pretty different 
tires?

I'm using these on some new (to me) routes that combine sections of rough 
gravel, singletrack, and road through Philly.

In an earlier thread, I'd been complaining about the slowness of the 
Cazaderos--thinking it might be the heavy MTB wheels on that bike, but 
people suggested a tire change and they were correct. With the Snoqualmie 
passes I get great acceleration and climbing in addition to the plushness.

Now that I've done some of the same routes on both I've noticed that the 
range of mixed terrain is way more fun on The Snoqualmie pass, with the 
only real issue being a fair amount more sliding on dirt and roots. Mud is 
also much more of a thing than on the cazadero. Another negative, I did get 
two flats in a short ride yesterday. Maybe still working out the pressure. 
There's also an insane amount of broken glass on these routes.

The Cazaderos feel much tougher, slide less on singletrack, and are more 
confidence inspiring. They are also way slower, even off road, and make the 
road sections more meh. They are far less cushy, really noticeable on rough 
gravel.

I was concerned about the potential for less fender clearance under the VO 
52s. So far, the Snoqualmie pass are actually a bit smaller than the 
Cazaderos. I'm not sure how much more they'll stretch, it's only been a 
week or so and they're around 40mm, I think.

Anyway, I wanted to hear other folks' thoughts on these two. It seems like 
the comparable size RH knobby might be the best of both, but I'm going to 
work with this pair until I wear them out. . .

---Adam

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/f8adbc9f-bb0f-4588-ac34-cc5605a8d2d7n%40googlegroups.com.

[RBW] Re: Cazadero, Snoqualmie Pass comparisons?

[Bones]

Adam, I came to pretty much the same conclusion. I started with Barlows, 
and quickly moved to Snoqualmie EL's on the Hillborne. Not much more width 
but definitely more volume and a cushier ride. I put some 42mm Cazaderos on 
there for a brief period but I too found them sluggish by comparison (I 
think the 50mm Cazadero tubeless is where it's at). I've also used 42mm 
Hurricane Ridges on there (endurance casing), which definitely felt really 
good on the road. I just spent most of my miles on the road so I couldn't 
justify keeping them on all the time. In the end I built a second wheelset 
so I could have one with slicks and one with knobbies. With respect to 
flats I'm very lucky there. I've been commuting into work every day for 
years (including one whole year on Snoqualmies) and only had one flat.. 
after running my single speed into a snow bank during a blizzard.

Bones

On Friday, May 28, 2021 at 9:11:47 AM UTC-4 Adam wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I've been comparing the Cazadero 42s to the RH Snoqualmie Pass ELs (thanks 
> to a group member who sold me some well-used ones for cheap)
>
> I wanted to see other folks' experiences with these two pretty different 
> tires?
>
> I'm using these on some new (to me) routes that combine sections of rough 
> gravel, singletrack, and road through Philly.
>
> In an earlier thread, I'd been complaining about the slowness of the 
> Cazaderos--thinking it might be the heavy MTB wheels on that bike, but 
> people suggested a tire change and they were correct. With the Snoqualmie 
> passes I get great acceleration and climbing in addition to the plushness.
>
> Now that I've done some of the same routes on both I've noticed that the 
> range of mixed terrain is way more fun on The Snoqualmie pass, with the 
> only real issue being a fair amount more sliding on dirt and roots. Mud is 
> also much more of a thing than on the cazadero. Another negative, I did get 
> two flats in a short ride yesterday. Maybe still working out the pressure. 
> There's also an insane amount of broken glass on these routes.
>
> The Cazaderos feel much tougher, slide less on singletrack, and are more 
> confidence inspiring. They are also way slower, even off road, and make the 
> road sections more meh. They are far less cushy, really noticeable on rough 
> gravel.
>
> I was concerned about the potential for less fender clearance under the VO 
> 52s. So far, the Snoqualmie pass are actually a bit smaller than the 
> Cazaderos. I'm not sure how much more they'll stretch, it's only been a 
> week or so and they're around 40mm, I think.
>
> Anyway, I wanted to hear other folks' thoughts on these two. It seems like 
> the comparable size RH knobby might be the best of both, but I'm going to 
> work with this pair until I wear them out. . .
>
> ---Adam
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/23e0fdc2-dca1-4726-b2c7-09650322b782n%40googlegroups.com.

[RBW] Re: My recent "CO-GAP" 7-day trip

[Pat Smith]

That's great advice Paul. Still finalizing all the details of our trip and 
we were going to take the MARC out to Harpers Ferry and camp and bike home 
one of these Fridays as a test run for mileage. 

Pat

On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 3:56:37 PM UTC-4 Bikie#4646 wrote:

> Pat in DC, You are very likely younger than I am, (closing in on 75 
> years,) but my travel companion for this trip is also younger by a decade 
> and a much stronger rider than I. We both were glad we settled on 50 miles 
> a day and tried our best to schedule the camps accordingly. After more than 
> a decade of doing rail trail multi-day trips, three things I have found 
> feels proper for me: 
> 1. A 5-minute break every 10 miles or so. Mainly to relive the butt and 
> resupply the tank with a small snack. (I rarely stop for a "real" lunch 
> unless it is some kind of coffee shop stop.)
> 2. 50 miles a day, riding loaded seems to prevent being too weary and 
> making the trip a chore. A little time in camp, even if just a relaxed meal 
> preparation is nice too. 
> 3. No matter how fast I can ride if I have too, like making up lost time, 
> beating an incoming storm, etc., It's hard and unpleasant for me to sustain 
> 12 - 14 mph all day. I seem to always fall back to 10 mph, unless riding 
> surfaces, etc. are perfectly smooth and level. 
> However, your schedule is your schedule and if it is inflexible, you may 
> not have a choice. Depending on your exact start and finish locations, the 
> GAPCO is pretty close to 350 miles (50 miles x 7 days). 
>
> Paul Germain
> Midlothian, Va.
>
> On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 9:55:21 AM UTC-4 pbsm...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Woops yeah 5 days. I figure 65 or so miles a day is a good 6-7 hours of 
>> riding. Seems like it would leave some time to explore. I'm also not sure 
>> how capable my friend and I are of doing that sort of mileage but time will 
>> tell.
>>
>> Pat in DC
>>
>> On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 6:38:52 PM UTC-4 marshmonster wrote:
>>
>>> Pat, you mean 5 days? It's doable but you won't have much time to stop 
>>> and check out some of the small towns, take a dip in the Potomac, ride 
>>> around Antietem, etc. C&O was my first bikepacking trip. My only regret is 
>>> not giving it more time, I kind of plowed through it in 3 days.
>>>
>>> On Monday, May 24, 2021 at 9:04:11 AM UTC-5 pbsm...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Nice pics Paul thanks for sharing. A friend and I are doing the DC to 
 Pitt direction later this year. I've only ever done overnight bike camping 
 trips and he's never even done that. Hoping to do it in 50 days. We live 
 in 
 DC.

 Originally had this planned for end of August, but life got in the way 
 so now we are shooting for mid October. Gonna need some extra layers for 
 sure. Do you know when everything starts to shut down for the season?

 Pat in DC

 On Monday, May 24, 2021 at 6:41:07 AM UTC-4 ascpgh wrote:

> I  really enjoy seeing all the variations of folks' trips and 
> iterations of outfitting on this route. I'm fortunate to be a twenty 
> minute 
> bike ride from the Pittsburgh end and frequent the GAP portions and 
> points 
> along that way that are fun detours and sightseeing.
>
>  I started riding on the GAP with my Rambouillet which doesn't have a 
> load capacity for self supported travel but as a result I've refined my 
> options for refreshments, meals and accommodations. My favorites are two 
> day rides from home, either out to Ohiopyle for the night and back or to 
> Cumberland with a overnighting in Ohiopyle and Amtrak home from 
> Cumberland 
> at 7pm. It is the use I patterned my custom bike to support. 
>
> Last year I rode several centuries out and back on the GAP to take 
> advantage of the crowd thinning weather, my familiar trailside resources 
> and the relatively level grades. 
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
> On Sunday, May 23, 2021 at 12:12:57 PM UTC-4 Bikie#4646 wrote:
>
>> While I have done unsupported multi-day trip from Pittsburgh to DC 
>> (GAPCO) a number of times, this time I accompanied friend, Dan on his 
>> 7-day 
>> trip from east-to-west in the opposite direction. A bit of a new 
>> perspective on the trails along the C&O Towpath in Maryland and the 
>> Great 
>> Allegheny Passage in Pennsylvania. 
>> I was on my Sam Hillborne, which is my dedicated touring bike, 
>> mostly. It serves me very well for this sort of thing. I have a Homer 
>> Hilsen I use for mixed-surface riding day trips and love it. It could 
>> probably handle touring, but I suspect the slightly stouter Hillborne is 
>> more reliable for multi-day loads.
>> We chose to go a bit early, the end of April, and were met with a 
>> variety of weather conditions, from sunny (even hot) days to cold (down 
>> to 
>> freezing one night) with a bit of rain th

[RBW] FS/FT: Sackville, Acorn bags,

[esoterica etc]

Howdy friends,

I've got a bunch of components and gear for sale that I listed over on 
iBOB, but thought people here might also be interested in some of this 
stuff. Prices listed are net to me and do not include shipping, but the 
more you buy, the more I can combine shipping and make you a better deal. 
Payment can be made through PayPal. I also have a few items listed at the 
bottom of this email that I'd be interested in for trade. 

Pictures are here: 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-KZRFfctZScgJb2YrECDBK4v5cEeORUB?usp=sharing


*BAGS*
Acorn Large Saddlebag, dark olive color, matches with handlebar bag below - 
*$100*  
https://www.acornbags.com/products/large-saddlebag?variant=21201881860

Acorn Handlebar Bag, dark olive color, matches with large saddlebag above - 
*$45*  
https://www.acornbags.com/products/handlebar-bag?variant=13618180164

Sackville Banana Sax in royal blue - *$90 * 
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/bags/products/sackville-banana-sax

Sackville SaddleSack XSmall in royal blue - *$60  *
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/bags/products/sackville-saddlesack-xsmall-olive-20130?variant=23334213953

North St. Pioneer 9 Handlebar Pack in red and teal, with handlebar kit and 
removable belt to convert it into a hip pack - *$40  *
https://northstbags.com/collections/bike-handlebar-bags/products/pioneer-9-handlebar-pack


*BRAKES/BRAKE LEVERS*
Shimano 600 sidepull calipers w/Shimano brake pads - *$35*

Suntour XC LTD short pull brake levers - *$25*

Tektro RX 4.1 inverse brake levers NIB - *$15*


*CRANKS*
Shimano 1st gen. Dura Ace crankset w/ original 52t chainguard, original 
52/39 rings, 170mm length. Threads and tapers are in great shape. Includes 
original Shimano 333 bottom bracket, 112.5mm spindle with crank bolts and 
Shimano dustcaps - *$150*


*DRIVETRAIN/DERAILLEURS*
Shimano Crane (Dura Ace) GS long cage rear derailleur (I successfully used 
this with a 9spd cassette, 34t large cog in friction mode) - *$70*

Shimano Titlist front double derailleur, 26.8 clamp - *$20*

Shimano "deerhead" XT front/rear derailleur set - *$45*

Shimano XT FD-M780 3x front derailleur NIB - *$25*

Shimano Biopace 48-38-28 chainrings for 110/74 cranks - *$20 for all three*

Surly Singleator single speed tensioner - *$25*

DMR Bikes single speed tensioner - *$15*


*SHIFTERS*
SunTour Power Ratchet band clamp downtube shifters - *$20*


*TIRES*
Compass/Rene Herse Rat Trap Pass tires, ultralight casing. 26" x 2.3 (<500 
miles) - *$105*

Compass/Rene Herse Steilacoom knobby tires, standard casing. 700c x 38 - 
*$50*



*Items I'm interested in for trade:*

   - *Compact double 46/30 crankset w/ 175mm arms (IRD Defiant, VO Grand 
   Cru, SunXCD, etc.)*
   - *Soma Cazaderos 650b x 42*
   - *Rene Herse Babyshoe Pass 650b x 42 Extralight tires*
   - *Shimano CX70, IRD Sub-C or similar front derailleur (26.8 clamp, 
   bottom pull)*
   - *27.2 seatpost with long setback (Nitto S84 or similar)*
   - *Long drop front brake cable hanger for 1" headset (Paul Funky Monkey 
   or similar)*


Thanks for looking y'all, have a great day and enjoy the ride!

~Mark
Raleigh, NC

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/7b87f953-5725-4527-ace9-6adae9dca223n%40googlegroups.com.

Re: [RBW] Gus transportation machine and uno Cheviot pic

[Bones]

Man that's funny, I may have to sell one of my bikes to buy a 1987 Ford 
Econoline if my family keeps expanding. Awesome pics, love those bikes + 
bags. Really makes me want to go on more adventures.

Bones

On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 5:46:16 PM UTC-4 joseph...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks y'all
>
> Appreciate it Jason,  I sold my 1987 ford Econoline to build the Gus.  
> Hoping to ride it until my body quits
> On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 12:50:58 AM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:
>
>> I sent photos of your Gus to a buddy (@foundinthemountains) because I 
>> love it and I knew he'd love it.  We had a whole conversation about the 
>> awesome details - you have built my favourite Gus yet.  Thanks for sharing 
>> the photos!  
>>
>> On Wednesday, 26 May 2021 at 17:31:45 UTC-7 Roberta wrote:
>>
>>> These look really nice!  Leah (BicycleBelleDingDing) and I were  talking 
>>> (or was she just posting) that people who own Chevs just love them.  They 
>>> rarely come up for resale.
>>>
>>> Happy riding.
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 6:54:17 PM UTC-4 Lucky wrote:
>>>
 Joseph, this is rad. Love the useful packs everywhere!

 On May 26, 2021, at 15:40, Joseph  wrote:

 Some pictures of my 54 Gus and a 55 Cheviot.  

 Both bikes were purchased through Chris Wiggins at the Physic 
 Derailleur in Indianapolis, because at the time he was the closest Riv 
 dealer to Chicago.  
 Chris is an excellent human and has taken very good care of us.  He 
 even let me order my Gus through Riv during the pre-order to save some 
 money.  
 The Gus is built for long trips with off roading in mind, specifically 
 a trip that will start in Orcas Island and end in Oakland.  It'll be a 
 skateboarding trip by bicycle.   
 The Cheviot is my wife's bike but I get to ride it occasionally.  
 Thanks for looking

 Joseph in Chicago 

 
 winter camping trip for friends birthday. He rides the orange Susie

 
 First stop for a S24O to Indiana Dunes and then we noticed I had gotten 
 a flat.  Ironically I forgot to pack an extra tube but Tim who rides 
 tubeless had an extra for me.  On the way back Tim got a flat but sealant 
 wasn't doing the job and he didn't have any plugs.  I planned on going 
 tubeless after this ride so happened to have some plugs in my tool kit.  
 This is one of the many reasons we continue to travel together.

 

 
 Wife's Cheviot on a ride to my folks place along the Des Plaines River 
 Trail.   

 
 Day 2 sleep spot of a 3 day ride to Davenport from Chicago.  This is 
 Lock 22 along the Hennepin Canal Trail.  No bugs, No rain, No tent.  Used 
 tent as pillow  

 
 Fully loaded in Davenport along the Mississippi.  That is a skateboard 
 on the front rack.  Skateboard covered with Rain cover from backpack.

 
 70ish mile Day ride to pick up truing station.  We took the train home

 

 Got some Flat 80 Honjo fenders from Mack's Bikes in Evanston, IL.  They 
 will come off for summer touring trip but be on all winter for commuting 
 through the city streets.  May keep them on If the Safety Tabs from 
 RidePDW 
 will work on them for the quick release action.  

 Also installed some of the Paul Motolites I found on Ebay.  The levers 
 came from 
 Tim Bantham via this group!  

 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
 Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
 To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
 an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
 To view this discussion on the web visit 
 https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/417b0d95-75fe-4b07-b07b-15288925488cn%40googlegroups.com
  
 
 .
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 



-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/871ac866-4170-45f6-9913-48dc2ce8ac2dn%40googlegroups.com.

[RBW] Re: New Bars on the Appaloosa

[Erik]

I just went out and tweaked the angle into the recommended range.  It's 
interesting in that it brought the loop in the front up a bit, putting it 
into a more comfortable, upright spot for stretching out. Thanks for the 
tip! 

On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 6:23:57 PM UTC-7 Chris L wrote:

>
>
> Jeff Jones recommends the bars be setup with a downward angle of 10-15 
> degrees (he specifically notes 11 degrees but gives a suggested range) and 
> I found that suggestion to work really well.  I can see that you have have 
> some downward angle on your bar, but it's hard to tell from these photos 
> how much.  As an experiment, you might tilt them down a few more degrees 
> and see how it feels.  Sort of like Grant's start with the saddle too high 
> and work your way down to the perfect height approach.  I did this and 
> there was definately a specific "sweet spot" for me.  
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/47c14d06-54c5-4e7d-87a9-49385c36f4e0n%40googlegroups.com.

Re: [RBW] Things You Might Like

[luckyturnip]

I can’t ride happily without one of my handlebar water bottle bags. I have fun 
ones from Cycle Cats, Oveja Negra, and Greg Newland. Here is my Atlantis with 
my Oveja Negra bag, which holds a 32oz Hydroflask with room to spare. 



> On May 28, 2021, at 12:04, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> <61EFBF0A-CF73-46E8-A772-9945FE80A017.jpeg>
> <0DDE862C-5234-4CFD-A788-FFA8CDD1DBDD.jpeg>
> This will be a delightful and useful thread. What things do you have on your 
> bike that you find dead useful? Bonus points if it is also darling.
> 
> I’ll go first. 
> 
> I have done away with bottle cages in favor of Randi Jo Bartender Plus bags. 
> I like to carry a Hydroflask and her bags take both 32 and 40 oz bottles. I 
> recently got a new Hydroflask with a straw lid and now I can sip water right 
> out of the bottle without pulling it out of the bag. Bonus points: the vinyl 
> Platypus sticker.
> 
> Leah
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/dd965d68-8760-4f41-9b96-cf9c15d09b9an%40googlegroups.com.
> <61EFBF0A-CF73-46E8-A772-9945FE80A017.jpeg>
> <0DDE862C-5234-4CFD-A788-FFA8CDD1DBDD.jpeg>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/BFDF1075-09FF-4F0A-A844-CFBD3B5242AE%40gmail.com.

[RBW] WTB: Paul Moon Unit pair

[Jared Wilson]

Hello all

As the title reads, looking for (2) Paul Moon Unit cantilever yokes, colors 
preferred.

Final touch for getting my Susie converted to cantilevers and I'm hoping 
someone has a pair collecting dust that they can send down the line.

Thanks!

Jared

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/7a1326f5-de6b-49f8-babf-f5e5385458e1n%40googlegroups.com.

Re: [RBW] Re: Rebuild kit for VP VIce pedals?

[Michael Morrissey]

Joe - yes! Pull out the bearings and maybe we can figure it out. I'd much 
prefer "rebuild and repair" instead of conspicuous consumption.

Michael

On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 8:07:28 PM UTC-4 divis...@gmail.com wrote:

> Testify!
>
> I've gone deep on Crank Brothers Quattros, which CB discontinued about ten 
> years ago. The springs in CB pedals (the ones that keep the clamping rails 
> apart, so your cleat clicks in and locks) - those springs periodically 
> break. For years, I've been trying to figure out how to disassemble the 
> pedals so I can replace the broken springs with springs cannibalized out of 
> the far more common Eggbeater and Candy models, with no success; I can't 
> figure out how to get the spring/clamp assembly apart without destroying 
> the pedal completely.
>
> Lucky for me, I'm ambidextrous about unclipping/clipping in, depending on 
> which lane of the street I find myself*. So my breakages have allowed my to 
> mix n'match pedal sets as they break. I'm currently riding an all-Ti 
> Quattro 4 right paired with a mostly-SS Quattro 2 left. But I shouldn't 
> have to do that.
>
> * Purely by dumb luck, I uncleat/cleat left when I'm near the center 
> strip, and uncleat/cleat right when I'm next to the curb, so the stress is 
> distributed about equally between the two pedals
>
> Peter "if *I* were in charge, things would be different you betcha" Adler
> Berkeley, CA/USA
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 4:26:00 PM UTC-7 jbu...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I kind of hate that pedals are "consumables". 
>> =- Joe Bunik 
>>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/d14508a9-74a8-43f8-a520-20efb74b256bn%40googlegroups.com.