[RBW] WTB Cheviot 60cm or Clem L 59cm

[Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles]

We have a 60cm Betty Foy if that floats your boat...it's not complete but we 
can build it to your liking.

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[RBW] FS - Please help me empty the bike closet

[Tom M]

How much are the pedals?

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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar

[Marc Irwin]

Mine came from the intitial run out of Waterford and Grant said the tubing 
was Kaisai 8630.  Perhaps he has changed since then but I thought I should 
clarify that.

Marc

On Saturday, November 11, 2017 at 10:55:02 PM UTC-5, MountNormal wrote:
>
> FWIW, Hunqapillars are built by Waterford with heat-treated MUSA steel 
> tubing. I'm no metallurgist nor am I a frame builder so I don't really know 
> what heat-treating does for a frame. I read an article  (or maybe an 
> interview) in which Grant talks about heat-treated vs. non heat-treated 
> tubing regarding his designs. Also, and don't quote me on this, but I think 
> the Hunqapillar tubing is thicker, more robust. So, in summation, all I 
> know for certain is that I own a Hunqapillar and I like it. 

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Re: [RBW] Getting Groceries - Someone has to, might as well enjoy it.

[ascpgh]

Patrick, what's the pipe insulation (?) around the bottom of the seat tube 
do?

Andy Cheatham
PIttsburgh

On Sunday, November 12, 2017 at 9:45:33 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> The '03 Curt has undergone changes since this photo was taken more than 3 
> years ago, but it still carries grocery loads.
>
> On Sun, Nov 12, 2017 at 7:24 PM, J Imler > 
> wrote:
>
>> I'm inspired to keep a cycling lifestyle by others posts, blogs, and 
>> sites. Here's a little something from me.
>>
>> https://sites.google.com/site/lifecyclecyclelife/home/mega-grocery-gettin
>>
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>
>
>
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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne in Autumn Orange

[Wally Estrella]

Very nice! I love the one w/ Sam lying atop the leaves.  I try to get 
something like that each fall w/ my orange Quickbeam.


On Sunday, November 12, 2017 at 1:50:23 AM UTC-5, RJ March wrote:
>
> A few quick pics from a recent ride in Lincoln Park, Seattle. This Sam's 
> craftsman orange is perfect for the fall colors this time of year and goes 
> great with the old grid grey bags Riv put out years ago. 
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/vs80qvikekCpu9xh1 
>
> Enjoy, 
> R.J.

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[RBW] Re: New bag design by DirtDance.

['Clayton' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Thanks Drew...

The perfect bike bag is elusive. 

 I appreciate the support. 

Clayton

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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar

[Mike Packard]

I found the Clem to feel more cruiser-y than the 90s MTBs. It is a 
fantastic off road and all rounder, but it's harder to jook the whole bike 
around. Handlebar choice makes a big difference too; I found the Boscos 
weren't my favorite for trail riding. That said, it's super tough and very 
comfortable.

Mike





On Saturday, November 11, 2017 at 8:18:34 PM UTC-6, Doug H. wrote:
>
> Hunqapillar vs Clem Smith Jr. What are the differences other than lugs and 
> country of origin?  Both seem to be mountain bikes and all rounders. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: New bag design by DirtDance.

[Patrick Moore]

That's an interesting bag. What do you think is the reasonable weight limit
for a trunk bag like that?

And I'm curious why you chose the trunk bag instead of panniers?

On Sun, Nov 12, 2017 at 10:36 PM, 'Clayton' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> After my first grocery run, with about 15 to 20 lbs. The lamination glue I
> used is still drying, and the bag has lost some weight. It's now just under
> two lbs..It works great. (I am now working on a new, smaller bag, less
> bootish)...My Atlantis is my car, year round, and my rear rack top bag is
> very important! Everything has to be carried up the stairs, so having the
> bag and my front basket quick release makes getting everything up a three
> trip, trip. One for the bag, one for the basket (not shown) and one for the
> bike. For a big shopping trip, I add panniers. I have carried 2-8' 2x2's, 2
> 4' steel bars, and forty lbs. of bird seed, on one trip...
> Clayton
> Bailey, Bend
>
>
> On Monday, October 30, 2017 at 7:23:04 AM UTC-7, Clayton wrote:
>>
>> My new prototype foam laminate rack top bag design for bag making people.
>> The evolution of the Stuinniker continues.  The bag is shaped like a boot,
>> with a roll down top. It doesn't look like it, but you can see into the toe
>> when open, so finding stuff is a non issue. For camping the sleeping bag
>> goes into the toe, and there is plenty of room for more stuff. It holds too
>> many groceries too. It quick releases off of the rack using a homemade
>> carbon fiber snap plate. The bag works well, but I overbuilt it using too
>> heavy of a yellow liner fabric, and it's a bit heavy at two pounds. There
>> is a smattering of brass and leather to keep it Rivish. For additional
>> photos, see DirtDanceDesigns on Instagram, or search for #Stuinniker. (I
>> don't sell anything, so this isn't a sales post.)  I am now working on a
>> 'Zeppelin' bag, shaped kinda like a turtle shell. (The white paper models).
>> It will be my daily bag and maybe an aero sleeping bag rack top bag.
>>  Clayton Bailey, Bend.
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: New bag design by DirtDance.

[Patrick Moore]

Oh, I just realized you made it yourself -- PDG!

On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 8:47 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> That's an interesting bag. What do you think is the reasonable weight
> limit for a trunk bag like that?
>
> And I'm curious why you chose the trunk bag instead of panniers?
>
> On Sun, Nov 12, 2017 at 10:36 PM, 'Clayton' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
>> After my first grocery run, with about 15 to 20 lbs. The lamination glue
>> I used is still drying, and the bag has lost some weight. It's now just
>> under two lbs..It works great. (I am now working on a new, smaller bag,
>> less bootish)...My Atlantis is my car, year round, and my rear rack top bag
>> is very important! Everything has to be carried up the stairs, so having
>> the bag and my front basket quick release makes getting everything up a
>> three trip, trip. One for the bag, one for the basket (not shown) and one
>> for the bike. For a big shopping trip, I add panniers. I have carried 2-8'
>> 2x2's, 2 4' steel bars, and forty lbs. of bird seed, on one trip...
>> Clayton
>> Bailey, Bend
>>
>>
>> On Monday, October 30, 2017 at 7:23:04 AM UTC-7, Clayton wrote:
>>>
>>> My new prototype foam laminate rack top bag design for bag making
>>> people. The evolution of the Stuinniker continues.  The bag is shaped like
>>> a boot, with a roll down top. It doesn't look like it, but you can see into
>>> the toe when open, so finding stuff is a non issue. For camping the
>>> sleeping bag goes into the toe, and there is plenty of room for more stuff.
>>> It holds too many groceries too. It quick releases off of the rack using a
>>> homemade carbon fiber snap plate. The bag works well, but I overbuilt it
>>> using too heavy of a yellow liner fabric, and it's a bit heavy at two
>>> pounds. There is a smattering of brass and leather to keep it Rivish. For
>>> additional photos, see DirtDanceDesigns on Instagram, or search for
>>> #Stuinniker. (I don't sell anything, so this isn't a sales post.)  I am now
>>> working on a 'Zeppelin' bag, shaped kinda like a turtle shell. (The white
>>> paper models). It will be my daily bag and maybe an aero sleeping bag rack
>>> top bag.   Clayton Bailey, Bend.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> --
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>>
>
>
>
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[RBW] Re: FS - Please help me empty the bike closet

[Ryan Fleming]

That is  too bad. These are terrific brake levers at a great price. If I 
hadn't bought them I probably would have ditched my drop bars long ago

On Sunday, November 12, 2017 at 11:28:00 PM UTC-6, Doug Bloch wrote:
>
> Argh! Why did the TRPs show up right after I emptied my PayPal to buy a 
> Riv-made 650b wheelset?
>
> I have a stuff I need to sell so I can get that account refilled!
>
> Doug
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Getting Groceries - Someone has to, might as well enjoy it.

[Deacon Patrick]

I’ll play. I agree a trailer is a wonderful thing, and I may start using it 
more as I have more purposeful rides up the pass to the grocery (five miles 
with around a thousand feet of climbing) as I test using my Quickbeam as more 
my daily ride bike. Here’s what I’ve done semi-recently...

Grocery runs:
https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/hungry-hungry-hunqapillar/

Errandonee 2017
https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/errandonee-2017/

Lumber
https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/getting-into-hand-powered-woodworking/

There’s a better way (and for me it’s called my wife and our mini-van). Live 
and learn. Grin.
https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/theres-a-smarter-way-to-haul-lumber-on-a-bike-but-i-aint/

With grinning abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Getting Groceries - Someone has to, might as well enjoy it.

[Patrick Moore]

To pad the frame or fork at the appropriate place when locking the bike to
a rack, to prevent scratching. But it fell off, and I forgot all about it.
(I often just wheel my bike into the store, anyway.)

On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 7:19 AM, ascpgh  wrote:

> Patrick, what's the pipe insulation (?) around the bottom of the seat tube
> do?
>
> Andy Cheatham
> PIttsburgh
>
> On Sunday, November 12, 2017 at 9:45:33 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> The '03 Curt has undergone changes since this photo was taken more than 3
>> years ago, but it still carries grocery loads.
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 12, 2017 at 7:24 PM, J Imler  wrote:
>>
>>> I'm inspired to keep a cycling lifestyle by others posts, blogs, and
>>> sites. Here's a little something from me.
>>>
>>> https://sites.google.com/site/lifecyclecyclelife/home/mega-g
>>> rocery-gettin
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
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>> Alburquerque, New Mexico, EUA
>> 
>> 
>> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>>
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[RBW] Forest for the Trees

[Deacon Patrick]

In which I get a rather uncomfortable look in the mirror... grin.
https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/missing-the-forest-for-the-trees

With abandon,
Patrick

www.CredoFamily.org
www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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[RBW] Re: What if the answer is knobbies on the QB?

[Deacon Patrick]

Exactly the alure of fixed for me, Philip. I am toying with a non-locked down 
fixed cog on the flip flop side of my ss hub, which is a 22. For snow rides, a 
32/22 gear sounds good for the climb up the pass, then flip flop to the ss side 
for the ride home, or just take is slow on the way home if it’s too nippy to 
flip and flop in the frost.

With abandon,
Patrick 

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Re: [RBW] Getting Groceries - Someone has to, might as well enjoy it.

[RichS]

Patrick, what is the most weight you’ve loaded on your good looking Curt and 
still felt the bike to be stable?

Thanks very much,
Richard

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[RBW] Re: WTB Cheviot 60cm or Clem L 59cm

[Christopher Wiggins]

Dan,
We have a Silver (Grilver) Clem L in 59.

Thanks!

Chris Wiggins
A1 Cyclery
Indianapolis IN

On Sunday, November 12, 2017 at 11:54:02 AM UTC-5, Dan wrote:
>
> Looking for a trusty step through bike and figured I would see if there 
> are any on here that need new homes. Built bikes would be preferred.
>
> This would be my first Rivendell.
>
> Thanks!
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 55-56cm Riv

[Christopher Wiggins]

I've got a 55 Orange Sam.  Should I just ship it to you ;)


On Monday, November 6, 2017 at 10:14:50 PM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>
> Have too many? Let me know. Price? Cheap ;)
>
> Wife won't let me buy another bike but I totally will if you have 
> something laying around..
>
> Winter's coming, where dem deals at eh eh eh
>

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[RBW] Re: FS 51 Joe Appaloosa silver

[Andrew Huston]

More pics

https://flic.kr/p/21pR2uE
https://flic.kr/p/21uJ3JT
https://flic.kr/p/21uHYt8

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Re: [RBW] Getting Groceries - Someone has to, might as well enjoy it.

[Patrick Moore]

Rich: I may well be far more tolerant of instability than many; also, my
grocery journeys tend to be short -- under 10 miles 1 way with detours, and
usually about 6-7 -- so I don't have to suffer instability for hours.

I've carried up to 40 lb on it, in the rear only -- 45 max between front
and rear, and more on that later -- and find that it's best if the load is
no more than 30, distributed between the 2 rear panniers.

An old 1973 Motobecane racing frame (well, it was 2nd tier model, I think;
Grand Record) with what felt like lighter tubing carried rear loads better,
oddly enough; 35 or more lbs in the rear, and this on a 11 oz Tubus Fly
rack. I carried up to 45 lb in the 2 rear panniers on that one.

Back to the Curt: A year or so after this photo was taken, I had the bike
modified and powdercoated, and had new racks made, front lowriders as well
as a new rear rack. With the lowriders in place, I've carried a total of
~45 lb: about 30 lb in the rear, ~15 in front, and the bike was less waggy
than with 40 in the rear alone, but it felt very sluggish to turn. I've
carried up to about 30 lb in front panniers alone, on lowriders, and it's
best with about 20 or less total in front, though even with 20 lb the
steering is quite sluggish -- perhaps I have to learn how to turn by
leaning instead of steering, with such front loads.

Odd that the Motobecane should do so well at rear loads; though, being
built in the early '70s, it did have long stays -- skinny ones! The 58 cm
Ram I owned wasn't as good at load carrying, but it was better at rear
loads than the Curt, though not by much.

The Curt is fine, though, for short loaded return journeys. I must load up
45 lb on the Matthews and see how that does ...

Long ago, I had a Fuji Royale "12 speed", which handled *best* with a rear
load! It was twitchy without any load, and stabilized with 20 lb in the
rear.

One last aside: one of my first grocery bikes, long ago in WDC, was a 5
speed Raleigh Sprite, to which I attached a cheap Pletscher rack and those
saddlebag-type rear baskets, Between flex in rack and frame, it was almost
impossible to ride a straight line with a sizeable rear load, and my
trajectory was a series of gentle "S" bends -- good thing the store was
only 1/2 mile away.

On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 9:37 AM, RichS  wrote:

> Patrick, what is the most weight you’ve loaded on your good looking Curt
> and still felt the bike to be stable?
>
> Thanks very much,
> Richard
>
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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar

[Doug H.]

Is the geometry for the 52 H Clem posted somewhere?

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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar

[MountNormal]

Sir...this might help. 

https://www.rivbike.com/pages/geometry

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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar

[Doug H.]

Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne in Autumn Orange

[Carla Waugh]

I can see it today. Great pics and a nice Sam!

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 55-56cm Riv

[REC]

Just curious.  What is the standover height on that?

Thanks.

On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 11:55:41 AM UTC-5, Christopher Wiggins 
wrote:

> I've got a 55 Orange Sam.  Should I just ship it to you ;)
>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar

[Doug H.]

The Standover column is blank for the Clem H. Does anyone know that 
measurement for the 52 cm H?

On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 1:15:55 PM UTC-5, Doug H. wrote:
>
> Thanks!

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[RBW] Advice for Poser Fixed on Flip Flop of ss/ss hub

[Deacon Patrick]

For winter and the increased feel of the ground conditions I want to try out 
fixed on my Quickbeam. I know the gear ratios work with Surly’s 17t/21t Dingle 
Cog (my Dos Eno is 16t/17t. The dingle cog would allow me to have a higher 
return gear without having to flip-flop the wheel (not fun in the sub-freezing 
and wind and snow), but simply manually shift as I normally do.

I do not plan on riding aggressive fixed techniques such as using back pedaling 
for brakes (but will if needed for conditions). From what I understand from 
conversations with Riv this is a fairly common way to ride fixed.

My hub is ss/ss, so not ss/fixed. How does it work putting a fixed cog on a ss 
hub? Aside from riding hard to help it seat solidly, anything else I should do 
to maximize the hold without a lock ring? Is there a way to add a lock ring? 
Anything else I should consider?

With abandon,
Patrick

www.CredoFamily.org
www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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Re: [RBW] Advice for Poser Fixed on Flip Flop of ss/ss hub

[Patrick Moore]

If you're not going to be putting a lot of backpressure on the cog you can
get by without a lockring; I've ridden thousands of miles with fixed cogs
screwed to old fw hubs.

Some people say a makeshift rht lockring helps; perhaps it does, I don't
know.

For *real* cog security, smear the threads with red Loctite. That's both a
real possibility, if you don't want to get the cog of in a hurry; and a
joke, since I did that, and, not knowing to use heat, I twisted the cog
with all my strength in a bench vise and it *shattered!* And this was a
Dura Ace cog. Mildly warped the hub threads, too, but not so much they
couldn't be 'self tapped" back into order when I screwed another cog on.
ENO hub, flip side, fwiw.

On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 12:16 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> For winter and the increased feel of the ground conditions I want to try
> out fixed on my Quickbeam. I know the gear ratios work with Surly’s 17t/21t
> Dingle Cog (my Dos Eno is 16t/17t. The dingle cog would allow me to have a
> higher return gear without having to flip-flop the wheel (not fun in the
> sub-freezing and wind and snow), but simply manually shift as I normally do.
>
> I do not plan on riding aggressive fixed techniques such as using back
> pedaling for brakes (but will if needed for conditions). From what I
> understand from conversations with Riv this is a fairly common way to ride
> fixed.
>
> My hub is ss/ss, so not ss/fixed. How does it work putting a fixed cog on
> a ss hub? Aside from riding hard to help it seat solidly, anything else I
> should do to maximize the hold without a lock ring? Is there a way to add a
> lock ring? Anything else I should consider?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.CredoFamily.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>
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Re: [RBW] Advice for Poser Fixed on Flip Flop of ss/ss hub

[Deacon Patrick]

Does a reversed lock ring = a make shift RHT lock ring? 

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[RBW] Re: Advice for Poser Fixed on Flip Flop of ss/ss hub

[Jim M.]

I did that on the hub of my QB with blue Loctite and a bottom bracket 
lockring. Works fine without backpedaling, but it didn't take much pressure 
to make it loosen. For mountain fixed riding, I'd really recommend a true 
fixed gear hub. I found it very difficult to ride down steep dirt without 
any back pressure.

jim m
walnut creek, ca

On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 11:16:31 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> For winter and the increased feel of the ground conditions I want to try 
> out fixed on my Quickbeam. I know the gear ratios work with Surly’s 17t/21t 
> Dingle Cog (my Dos Eno is 16t/17t. The dingle cog would allow me to have a 
> higher return gear without having to flip-flop the wheel (not fun in the 
> sub-freezing and wind and snow), but simply manually shift as I normally 
> do. 
>
> I do not plan on riding aggressive fixed techniques such as using back 
> pedaling for brakes (but will if needed for conditions). From what I 
> understand from conversations with Riv this is a fairly common way to ride 
> fixed. 
>
> My hub is ss/ss, so not ss/fixed. How does it work putting a fixed cog on 
> a ss hub? Aside from riding hard to help it seat solidly, anything else I 
> should do to maximize the hold without a lock ring? Is there a way to add a 
> lock ring? Anything else I should consider? 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.CredoFamily.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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[RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[tc]

Singlespeeders, is your single worth $2,000 to you?

Assuming whatever the 'classic single' is to be, the frame with headset and 
seatpost are included.  Toying around with what a parts list would be, and 
cost, assuming buying all new.  Here's what I came up with doing a very 
quick survey of pretty good parts:

1.  Headset: ($150) Included with frame?
2.  Stem ($115)
3.  Handlebar ($125)
4.  Grips and/or tape ($50)
5.  Front/Rear caliper brakes & pads ($125)
6.  Front/Rear brake levers ($50)
7.  Brake cables and end caps ($20)
8.  Bottom bracket threaded English ($125)
9.  Single-speed Crank / spindle / arms $175
10. Pedals ($60)
11. Chain ($20)
12. Front wheel:  rim, spokes, 100mm hub ($200)
13. Rear wheel: rim, spokes, 120mm flip-flop hub (single or dingle?) ($200)
14. Front/rear tires & tubes (38mm w/out fender, 32 w/fender) ($100)
15. Seatpost: 27.2mm ($85) Included with frame?
16. Saddle ($150)

Total parts: $1,515 ($1,750 if headset and seatpost not included with frame)

Frame, headset, seatpost:  $1,400 (?)

Total bike & parts:  ~ $1,915

Shipping: $170 East of Mississippi

TOTAL bike, parts, shipping:  ~ $2,085

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Re: [RBW] Advice for Poser Fixed on Flip Flop of ss/ss hub

[Daniel M]

Right-hand threading is right-hand threading no matter which way you orient it. 
That's why the "right-hand rule" work for tightening/loosening regardless of 
which way the bolt is facing and which way you want it to go, as does the 
left-hand rule for left-side pedals and right-side bottom brackets.

Daniel M
Berkeley, CA

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Re: [RBW] Advice for Poser Fixed on Flip Flop of ss/ss hub

[Deacon Patrick]

I LOVE this group! A generious list member is sending a fixed/ss flip flop hub 
to my local wheel builder. So I’ll be testing true and proper fixed gear 
riding! Sweet! Anyone have a 17/21 dingle cog and lock ring needing abuse? Grin.

With abadnon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Advice for Poser Fixed on Flip Flop of ss/ss hub

[Clayton.sf]

Just an FYI, make sure to check thread pitch requirements when pairing cog 
and lockring with your hub. Also, different cogs have different thread 
widths that can affect lockring engagement. In most cases you will be just 
fine, but double-checking just in-case is advisable.

Best,
Clayton Scott
SF, CA

On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 12:27:15 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I LOVE this group! A generious list member is sending a fixed/ss flip flop 
> hub to my local wheel builder. So I’ll be testing true and proper fixed 
> gear riding! Sweet! Anyone have a 17/21 dingle cog and lock ring needing 
> abuse? Grin. 
>
> With abadnon, 
> Patrick

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[RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[Bill Lindsay]

You gave yourself a $1000 discount

$1400 + $1515 = $2915

you said it is $1915



On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 11:41:25 AM UTC-8, tc wrote:
>
> Singlespeeders, is your single worth $2,000 to you?
>
> Assuming whatever the 'classic single' is to be, the frame with headset 
> and seatpost are included.  Toying around with what a parts list would be, 
> and cost, assuming buying all new.  Here's what I came up with doing a very 
> quick survey of pretty good parts:
>
> 1.  Headset: ($150) Included with frame?
> 2.  Stem ($115)
> 3.  Handlebar ($125)
> 4.  Grips and/or tape ($50)
> 5.  Front/Rear caliper brakes & pads ($125)
> 6.  Front/Rear brake levers ($50)
> 7.  Brake cables and end caps ($20)
> 8.  Bottom bracket threaded English ($125)
> 9.  Single-speed Crank / spindle / arms $175
> 10. Pedals ($60)
> 11. Chain ($20)
> 12. Front wheel:  rim, spokes, 100mm hub ($200)
> 13. Rear wheel: rim, spokes, 120mm flip-flop hub (single or dingle?) ($200)
> 14. Front/rear tires & tubes (38mm w/out fender, 32 w/fender) ($100)
> 15. Seatpost: 27.2mm ($85) Included with frame?
> 16. Saddle ($150)
>
> Total parts: $1,515 ($1,750 if headset and seatpost not included with 
> frame)
>
> Frame, headset, seatpost:  $1,400 (?)
>
> Total bike & parts:  ~ $1,915
>
> Shipping: $170 East of Mississippi
>
> TOTAL bike, parts, shipping:  ~ $2,085
>

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[RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[Ryan Fleming]

you might wanna recheck your math 
;)

On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 1:41:25 PM UTC-6, tc wrote:
>
> Singlespeeders, is your single worth $2,000 to you?
>
> Assuming whatever the 'classic single' is to be, the frame with headset 
> and seatpost are included.  Toying around with what a parts list would be, 
> and cost, assuming buying all new.  Here's what I came up with doing a very 
> quick survey of pretty good parts:
>
> 1.  Headset: ($150) Included with frame?
> 2.  Stem ($115)
> 3.  Handlebar ($125)
> 4.  Grips and/or tape ($50)
> 5.  Front/Rear caliper brakes & pads ($125)
> 6.  Front/Rear brake levers ($50)
> 7.  Brake cables and end caps ($20)
> 8.  Bottom bracket threaded English ($125)
> 9.  Single-speed Crank / spindle / arms $175
> 10. Pedals ($60)
> 11. Chain ($20)
> 12. Front wheel:  rim, spokes, 100mm hub ($200)
> 13. Rear wheel: rim, spokes, 120mm flip-flop hub (single or dingle?) ($200)
> 14. Front/rear tires & tubes (38mm w/out fender, 32 w/fender) ($100)
> 15. Seatpost: 27.2mm ($85) Included with frame?
> 16. Saddle ($150)
>
> Total parts: $1,515 ($1,750 if headset and seatpost not included with 
> frame)
>
> Frame, headset, seatpost:  $1,400 (?)
>
> Total bike & parts:  ~ $1,915
>
> Shipping: $170 East of Mississippi
>
> TOTAL bike, parts, shipping:  ~ $2,085
>

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[RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[Belopsky]

There are some really spendy parts on that list there and you are missing 
other items..
freewheel? Dingle cog (if WI) will be $$$

The stem I'd get would cost me $50, the seatpost I'd get would cost me $50, 
the bars would cost me $50.
Some of these parts I'd find used so chances are it'd be even less.

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Re: [RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[Sky Coulter]

I really liked the math.  It reminds me of my own cost estimates.

Sky in new west

> On Nov 13, 2017, at 1:48 PM, Belopsky  wrote:
> 
> There are some really spendy parts on that list there and you are missing 
> other items..
> freewheel? Dingle cog (if WI) will be $$$
> 
> The stem I'd get would cost me $50, the seatpost I'd get would cost me $50, 
> the bars would cost me $50.
> Some of these parts I'd find used so chances are it'd be even less.
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Re: [RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[Clayton.sf]

Are we sure that the single speed is the blue lug single speed?

Clayton Scott
SF, CA

On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 3:11:01 PM UTC-8, Sky Coulter wrote:
>
> I really liked the math.  It reminds me of my own cost estimates.
>
> Sky in new west
>
> On Nov 13, 2017, at 1:48 PM, Belopsky > 
> wrote:
>
> There are some really spendy parts on that list there and you are missing 
> other items..
> freewheel? Dingle cog (if WI) will be $$$
>
> The stem I'd get would cost me $50, the seatpost I'd get would cost me 
> $50, the bars would cost me $50.
> Some of these parts I'd find used so chances are it'd be even less.
>
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>

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[RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[Philip Williamson]

As others mentioned, you lost $1000 in your addition, and chose the 
spendiest parts possible (except for brake cables). A "statement" bike like 
that is automatically going to be overvalued, because you're buying 
prestige. 

My Quickbeam is worth about $1500 to the right person, with the original 
wheels. Is it worth $2000 to me? Easily, since I won't sell it for that. Is 
it worth $3000? Absolutely not, but I might pass on that offer, too. I 
bought the complete bike because it was much cheaper than building it from 
a frameset. Still, I've had several different wheelsets on it, and replaced 
the bars and stem right away. 

My Ross is worth maybe $300 to someone who doesn't know about bikes. It's 
worth about $150 to me for the wheels, brakes, and saddle.  

My theoretical "dreamy" build: 
1.  Headset: ($45) Included with frame?
2.  Stem ($50 - used steel salsa)
3.  Handlebar ($70 Nitto RM-3 from Japan)
4.  Grips and/or tape ($20)
5.  Front/Rear caliper brakes & pads ($100 TRP ReVox or whatever's on hand)
6.  Front/Rear brake levers ($20 or whatever's in the box)
7.  Brake cables ($30)
8.  BB ($25 Basic Shimano, or whatever I have on hand)
9.  Crankset (ebay D/A triple $80 or whatever's on hand)
10. Pedals ($45 or whatever I have on hand)
11. Chain ($20)
12. Front wheel: ($100 or whatever's on hand)
13. Rear wheel and cog: ($150 or whatever's on hand)
14. Front/rear tires & tubes (38mm w/out fender, 32 w/fender) ($125 
Compass, or whatever's on hand)
15. Seatpost: 27.2mm ($45) Included with frame?
16. Saddle ($75 used Brooks, or whatever's on hand)

So... depending on your parts bin, a build kit can run from $120 to $920.

Philip
www.biketinker.com 

On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 11:41:25 AM UTC-8, tc wrote:
>
> Singlespeeders, is your single worth $2,000 to you?
>
> Assuming whatever the 'classic single' is to be, the frame with headset 
> and seatpost are included.  Toying around with what a parts list would be, 
> and cost, assuming buying all new.  Here's what I came up with doing a very 
> quick survey of pretty good parts:
>
> 1.  Headset: ($150) Included with frame?
> 2.  Stem ($115)
> 3.  Handlebar ($125)
> 4.  Grips and/or tape ($50)
> 5.  Front/Rear caliper brakes & pads ($125)
> 6.  Front/Rear brake levers ($50)
> 7.  Brake cables and end caps ($20)
> 8.  Bottom bracket threaded English ($125)
> 9.  Single-speed Crank / spindle / arms $175
> 10. Pedals ($60)
> 11. Chain ($20)
> 12. Front wheel:  rim, spokes, 100mm hub ($200)
> 13. Rear wheel: rim, spokes, 120mm flip-flop hub (single or dingle?) ($200)
> 14. Front/rear tires & tubes (38mm w/out fender, 32 w/fender) ($100)
> 15. Seatpost: 27.2mm ($85) Included with frame?
> 16. Saddle ($150)
>
> Total parts: $1,515 ($1,750 if headset and seatpost not included with 
> frame)
>
> Frame, headset, seatpost:  $1,400 (?)
>
> Total bike & parts:  ~ $1,915
>
> Shipping: $170 East of Mississippi
>
> TOTAL bike, parts, shipping:  ~ $2,085
>

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[RBW] Re: Advice for Poser Fixed on Flip Flop of ss/ss hub

[Philip Williamson]

Glad to hear you've got a hub on the way. 

Now moot points: 
If you ever do need to run a fixed cog without a lockring, I recommend the 
Rotafix method of installation and removal. It's worked for me for many 
years, both offroad and on. I traded a wheel away, and the shop broke a 
chainwhip trying to remove the rotafixed cog. The rotafix removal worked 
fine. 
In my experience, a BB lockring used as a jam nut does nothing to keep the 
cog on the hub. Just the other day I learned that in order for a jam nut to 
work, it needs to be wider than the nut being jammed (thin nut inside, fat 
nut outside). 
Use high quality cogs (Dura Ace, EAI, Surly) and hubs, or you can strip 
thread even with a lockring. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com  

On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 11:16:31 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> For winter and the increased feel of the ground conditions I want to try 
> out fixed on my Quickbeam. I know the gear ratios work with Surly’s 17t/21t 
> Dingle Cog (my Dos Eno is 16t/17t. The dingle cog would allow me to have a 
> higher return gear without having to flip-flop the wheel (not fun in the 
> sub-freezing and wind and snow), but simply manually shift as I normally 
> do. 
>
> I do not plan on riding aggressive fixed techniques such as using back 
> pedaling for brakes (but will if needed for conditions). From what I 
> understand from conversations with Riv this is a fairly common way to ride 
> fixed. 
>
> My hub is ss/ss, so not ss/fixed. How does it work putting a fixed cog on 
> a ss hub? Aside from riding hard to help it seat solidly, anything else I 
> should do to maximize the hold without a lock ring? Is there a way to add a 
> lock ring? Anything else I should consider? 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.CredoFamily.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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Re: [RBW] Re: Advice for Poser Fixed on Flip Flop of ss/ss hub

[Patrick Moore]

On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 4:51 PM, Philip Williamson <
philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Glad to hear you've got a hub on the way.
>
> Now moot points:
> If you ever do need to run a fixed cog without a lockring, I recommend the
> Rotafix method of installation and removal. It's worked for me for many
> years, both offroad and on. I traded a wheel away, and the shop broke a
> chainwhip trying to remove the rotafixed cog. The rotafix removal worked
> fine.
>

This being the Rota Fix method (which I never heard of before)?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y16rJ0M4YLY

If so, question: how does this get the cog on tighter than simply screwing
it on finger tight, and then getting on the bike and honking up a steep
hill?


> In my experience, a BB lockring used as a jam nut does nothing to keep the
> cog on the hub. Just the other day I learned that in order for a jam nut to
> work, it needs to be wider than the nut being jammed (thin nut inside, fat
> nut outside).
>

Now that is useful information, in that I rather suspected that a bb
lockring didn't do anything for security, but I didn't realize that a fat
lockring, even if RHT, *will* work. Can someone explain the physics or
mechanics of why this is so?

Please use bright pictures and short words!


> Use high quality cogs (Dura Ace, EAI, Surly) and hubs, or you can strip
> thread even with a lockring.
>

Yup! I did that powering through an intersection while jumping a red light
with a stamped cog on a Normandy hub. Instant freewheel!

But I haven't seen one of those $10 stamped cogs for 10+ years; perhaps
they underwent mass extinction during the fixie craze?



>
> Philip
> www.biketinker.com
>
> On M
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Advice for Poser Fixed on Flip Flop of ss/ss hub

[Patrick Moore]

And Deacon: Please give us your initial and subsequent impressions of
riding fixed, especially fixed off road, in deep and excruciating detail.
As I said, I briefly tried fixed 60" gear off road, and hated downhills.
Uphills were fine.

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[RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[Belopsky]

I want to know a rivvy build kit kit.

what would be the go-to hubs/wheels? Track standard from 
velocity? http://www.velocityusa.com/product/wheels/track/track-wheelset

These could be 
good 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mavic-CXP22-Track-Bike-Fixed-Gear-SingleSpeed-Wheels-Wheelset-Silver-Formula-Hub/331314937524?epid=1172847171&hash=item4d23e8beb4:g:ZoIAAOxy4t1SfXSG
or
https://www.ebay.com/p/H-Plus-Son-Tb14-Silver-Formula-Track-Hubs-Fixed-Gear-Bike-Wheelset-Wheels-32h/1700181752?iid=331330877836&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3De3f84bc3390c416baf2b3a60b4e363b7%26pid%3D15%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D331927989885&_trksid=p2047675.c15.m1851

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[RBW] Re: FS: 2015 Hunqapillar F/F/HS 62cm

[CoalTrain]

What’s your PBH and height? 

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Re: [RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[Belopsky]

yep

On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 6:13:56 PM UTC-5, Clayton.sf wrote:
>
> Are we sure that the single speed is the blue lug single speed?
>
> Clayton Scott
> SF, CA
>
> On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 3:11:01 PM UTC-8, Sky Coulter wrote:
>>
>> I really liked the math.  It reminds me of my own cost estimates.
>>
>> Sky in new west
>>
>> On Nov 13, 2017, at 1:48 PM, Belopsky  wrote:
>>
>> There are some really spendy parts on that list there and you are missing 
>> other items..
>> freewheel? Dingle cog (if WI) will be $$$
>>
>> The stem I'd get would cost me $50, the seatpost I'd get would cost me 
>> $50, the bars would cost me $50.
>> Some of these parts I'd find used so chances are it'd be even less.
>>
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[RBW] Re: Winter tires - studded

[Belopsky]

A quick update:
Schwalbe spiker fit the clem, but not with fenders (could work but a little 
tight at the crown - did not check the rear at all because I want to use 
fenders).

Nokian does make a 54mm tire hmm...

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Re: [RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[Belopsky]

What are your all thoughts on a crankset? My last bike had a 144mm BCD 
crankset, which made finding chainrings a bit hard but also a bit expensive.
Sugino XD or similar? I had a TA Pro 5 Vis crankset but i stripped the 
threads on it so that's out..

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Re: [RBW] Getting Groceries - Someone has to, might as well enjoy it.

[R Shannon]

Patrick:

Thanks very much; those are wonderful stories. I feel like a wuss carrying
only 15-20 lbs. of groceries on my SamH, LOL! My grocery rides are about
the same as yours too.

Keep it upright!

Best regards,
Richard

On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 12:14 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Rich: I may well be far more tolerant of instability than many; also, my
> grocery journeys tend to be short -- under 10 miles 1 way with detours, and
> usually about 6-7 -- so I don't have to suffer instability for hours.
>
> I've carried up to 40 lb on it, in the rear only -- 45 max between front
> and rear, and more on that later -- and find that it's best if the load is
> no more than 30, distributed between the 2 rear panniers.
>
> An old 1973 Motobecane racing frame (well, it was 2nd tier model, I think;
> Grand Record) with what felt like lighter tubing carried rear loads better,
> oddly enough; 35 or more lbs in the rear, and this on a 11 oz Tubus Fly
> rack. I carried up to 45 lb in the 2 rear panniers on that one.
>
> Back to the Curt: A year or so after this photo was taken, I had the bike
> modified and powdercoated, and had new racks made, front lowriders as well
> as a new rear rack. With the lowriders in place, I've carried a total of
> ~45 lb: about 30 lb in the rear, ~15 in front, and the bike was less waggy
> than with 40 in the rear alone, but it felt very sluggish to turn. I've
> carried up to about 30 lb in front panniers alone, on lowriders, and it's
> best with about 20 or less total in front, though even with 20 lb the
> steering is quite sluggish -- perhaps I have to learn how to turn by
> leaning instead of steering, with such front loads.
>
> Odd that the Motobecane should do so well at rear loads; though, being
> built in the early '70s, it did have long stays -- skinny ones! The 58 cm
> Ram I owned wasn't as good at load carrying, but it was better at rear
> loads than the Curt, though not by much.
>
> The Curt is fine, though, for short loaded return journeys. I must load up
> 45 lb on the Matthews and see how that does ...
>
> Long ago, I had a Fuji Royale "12 speed", which handled *best* with a
> rear load! It was twitchy without any load, and stabilized with 20 lb in
> the rear.
>
> One last aside: one of my first grocery bikes, long ago in WDC, was a 5
> speed Raleigh Sprite, to which I attached a cheap Pletscher rack and those
> saddlebag-type rear baskets, Between flex in rack and frame, it was almost
> impossible to ride a straight line with a sizeable rear load, and my
> trajectory was a series of gentle "S" bends -- good thing the store was
> only 1/2 mile away.
>
> On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 9:37 AM, RichS  wrote:
>
>> Patrick, what is the most weight you’ve loaded on your good looking Curt
>> and still felt the bike to be stable?
>>
>> Thanks very much,
>> Richard
>>
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>
>
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Re: [RBW] Getting Groceries - Someone has to, might as well enjoy it.

[Patrick Moore]

Oh, shucks, 'tweren't nothin. (Shuffle shuffle.) No, it's no big deal, and
I certainly enjoy riding my Riv even with a tail wagging load.

I never did use my Sam, owned for a year or so, for grocery shopping ...

On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 6:58 PM, R Shannon  wrote:

> Patrick:
>
> Thanks very much; those are wonderful stories. I feel like a wuss carrying
> only 15-20 lbs. of groceries on my SamH, LOL! My grocery rides are about
> the same as yours too.
>
> Keep it upright!
>
> Best regards,
> Richard
>
> On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 12:14 PM, Patrick Moore 
> wrote:
>
>> Rich: I may well be far more tolerant of instability than many; also, my
>> grocery journeys tend to be short -- under 10 miles 1 way with detours, and
>> usually about 6-7 -- so I don't have to suffer instability for hours.
>>
>> I've carried up to 40 lb on it, in the rear only -- 45 max between front
>> and rear, and more on that later -- and find that it's best if the load is
>> no more than 30, distributed between the 2 rear panniers.
>>
>> An old 1973 Motobecane racing frame (well, it was 2nd tier model, I
>> think; Grand Record) with what felt like lighter tubing carried rear loads
>> better, oddly enough; 35 or more lbs in the rear, and this on a 11 oz Tubus
>> Fly rack. I carried up to 45 lb in the 2 rear panniers on that one.
>>
>> Back to the Curt: A year or so after this photo was taken, I had the bike
>> modified and powdercoated, and had new racks made, front lowriders as well
>> as a new rear rack. With the lowriders in place, I've carried a total of
>> ~45 lb: about 30 lb in the rear, ~15 in front, and the bike was less waggy
>> than with 40 in the rear alone, but it felt very sluggish to turn. I've
>> carried up to about 30 lb in front panniers alone, on lowriders, and it's
>> best with about 20 or less total in front, though even with 20 lb the
>> steering is quite sluggish -- perhaps I have to learn how to turn by
>> leaning instead of steering, with such front loads.
>>
>> Odd that the Motobecane should do so well at rear loads; though, being
>> built in the early '70s, it did have long stays -- skinny ones! The 58 cm
>> Ram I owned wasn't as good at load carrying, but it was better at rear
>> loads than the Curt, though not by much.
>>
>> The Curt is fine, though, for short loaded return journeys. I must load
>> up 45 lb on the Matthews and see how that does ...
>>
>> Long ago, I had a Fuji Royale "12 speed", which handled *best* with a
>> rear load! It was twitchy without any load, and stabilized with 20 lb in
>> the rear.
>>
>> One last aside: one of my first grocery bikes, long ago in WDC, was a 5
>> speed Raleigh Sprite, to which I attached a cheap Pletscher rack and those
>> saddlebag-type rear baskets, Between flex in rack and frame, it was almost
>> impossible to ride a straight line with a sizeable rear load, and my
>> trajectory was a series of gentle "S" bends -- good thing the store was
>> only 1/2 mile away.
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 9:37 AM, RichS  wrote:
>>
>>> Patrick, what is the most weight you’ve loaded on your good looking Curt
>>> and still felt the bike to be stable?
>>>
>>> Thanks very much,
>>> Richard
>>>
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>>
>>
>>
>> --
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>> Alburquerque, New Mexico, EUA
>> 
>> 
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>>
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[RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[tc]

LOL - yes, wouldn't the guys a Riv love to have me run the front 
office...$2,915 it is.

On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 4:41:24 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> You gave yourself a $1000 discount
>
> $1400 + $1515 = $2915
>
> you said it is $1915
>
>
>
> On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 11:41:25 AM UTC-8, tc wrote:
>>
>> Singlespeeders, is your single worth $2,000 to you?
>>
>> Assuming whatever the 'classic single' is to be, the frame with headset 
>> and seatpost are included.  Toying around with what a parts list would be, 
>> and cost, assuming buying all new.  Here's what I came up with doing a very 
>> quick survey of pretty good parts:
>>
>> 1.  Headset: ($150) Included with frame?
>> 2.  Stem ($115)
>> 3.  Handlebar ($125)
>> 4.  Grips and/or tape ($50)
>> 5.  Front/Rear caliper brakes & pads ($125)
>> 6.  Front/Rear brake levers ($50)
>> 7.  Brake cables and end caps ($20)
>> 8.  Bottom bracket threaded English ($125)
>> 9.  Single-speed Crank / spindle / arms $175
>> 10. Pedals ($60)
>> 11. Chain ($20)
>> 12. Front wheel:  rim, spokes, 100mm hub ($200)
>> 13. Rear wheel: rim, spokes, 120mm flip-flop hub (single or dingle?) 
>> ($200)
>> 14. Front/rear tires & tubes (38mm w/out fender, 32 w/fender) ($100)
>> 15. Seatpost: 27.2mm ($85) Included with frame?
>> 16. Saddle ($150)
>>
>> Total parts: $1,515 ($1,750 if headset and seatpost not included with 
>> frame)
>>
>> Frame, headset, seatpost:  $1,400 (?)
>>
>> Total bike & parts:  ~ $1,915
>>
>> Shipping: $170 East of Mississippi
>>
>> TOTAL bike, parts, shipping:  ~ $2,085
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[tc]

No - I've seen no details.  Just to get the conversation going I made a 
huge assumption that cost would be that of the blue lug single.  That may 
be wildly off.

On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 6:13:56 PM UTC-5, Clayton.sf wrote:
>
> Are we sure that the single speed is the blue lug single speed?
>
>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[Belopsky]

Really? Why

On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 8:25:32 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> One of these, for sure:
>
> [image: Inline image 1]
>
> [image: Inline image 2]
>
> On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 6:12 PM, Belopsky  > wrote:
>
>> What are your all thoughts on a crankset? My last bike had a 144mm BCD 
>> crankset, which made finding chainrings a bit hard but also a bit expensive.
>> Sugino XD or similar? I had a TA Pro 5 Vis crankset but i stripped the 
>> threads on it so that's out..
>>
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>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[Patrick Moore]

Why not?

On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 7:22 PM, Belopsky  wrote:

> Really? Why
>
> On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 8:25:32 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> One of these, for sure:
>>
>> [image: Inline image 1]
>>
>> [image: Inline image 2]
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 6:12 PM, Belopsky  wrote:
>>
>>> What are your all thoughts on a crankset? My last bike had a 144mm BCD
>>> crankset, which made finding chainrings a bit hard but also a bit expensive.
>>> Sugino XD or similar? I had a TA Pro 5 Vis crankset but i stripped the
>>> threads on it so that's out..
>>>
>>> --
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>>
>>
>>
>> --
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>> 
>> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[Patrick Moore]

And, they're the prettiest cranks ever made, IMO.

But surely, you don't think I was entirely serious?

On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 7:27 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Why not?
>
> On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 7:22 PM, Belopsky 
> wrote:
>
>> Really? Why
>>
>> On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 8:25:32 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>> One of these, for sure:
>>>
>>> [image: Inline image 1]
>>>
>>> [image: Inline image 2]
>>>
>>> On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 6:12 PM, Belopsky  wrote:
>>>
 What are your all thoughts on a crankset? My last bike had a 144mm BCD
 crankset, which made finding chainrings a bit hard but also a bit 
 expensive.
 Sugino XD or similar? I had a TA Pro 5 Vis crankset but i stripped the
 threads on it so that's out..

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>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>> 
>>> 
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>>>
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>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[Belopsky]

I dont know if they are the prettiest..the second photo looks nice. What 
are they?

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Re: [RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[Belopsky]

Grant wrote about this back on 10/23, it was re-posted earlier in this 
thread. These are the Blue Lug single-speed frames.

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Re: [RBW] Getting Groceries - Someone has to, might as well enjoy it.

[J Imler]

Hey Deacon Patrick, 

Awesome errand rides! What is the saw in the Errandonnee 2017 post? I'm looking 
for a nice camp saw. 

Thanks. 

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[RBW] Campagnolo on a Sam/Homer?

[Adam Kilgas]

So without going too spendy (Phil/Chris King, etc), I was wondering what the 
options for running a Campy drivetrain on a 135mm rear spacing are?  I've heard 
tell that Bitex offers their RAR12 with a 135mm axle and Campy freewheel, but 
haven't been able to find it anywhere...

Anyone know of any other hub options?

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[RBW] Re: Campagnolo on a Sam/Homer?

[Bill Lindsay]

Velo-Orange Gran Cru
White Industries MI5

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 8:28:57 PM UTC-8, Adam Kilgas wrote:
>
> So without going too spendy (Phil/Chris King, etc), I was wondering what 
> the options for running a Campy drivetrain on a 135mm rear spacing are? 
>  I've heard tell that Bitex offers their RAR12 with a 135mm axle and Campy 
> freewheel, but haven't been able to find it anywhere...
>
> Anyone know of any other hub options?
>

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[RBW] Re: What if the answer is knobbies on the QB?

[Max S]

Following this with curiosity, as snow begins to show up once or twice a 
week in the forecast!! 

Also curious to know what the width and height of the knobbed tire will be 
– either the 700c and the 650b version of the knobby from Compass – and how 
far out the knobs stick out on different rims. 

- M

On Saturday, November 11, 2017 at 9:50:36 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> The idea of narrower studded tires got me thinking: what if the answer to 
> my winter riding quandary is the Quickbeam (ss, solves drive train in 
> weather issues, plus, it has fenders) is Compasses supple knobbies, the 
> Steilacoom TC. Perhaps this winter I will try the narrow tire (now with 
> knobbies) approach to winter, at least on those freeze the drive train 
> days. Grin. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.CredoFamily.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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[RBW] Re: Campagnolo on a Sam/Homer?

[Adam Kilgas]

I'd put the White Industries hub up there in the "pricey" category as well... 
The VO is better, but I suppose what I'm looking for is something in the $100 
range... You can find good quality Shimano/SRAM stuff all day in that price 
range, but Campy is a whole 'nother level, it seems.

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[RBW] Re: Campagnolo on a Sam/Homer?

[Bill Lindsay]

Hope is another one, but it is not <$100 as required.  Miche makes a ton of 
Campy compatible stuff, but I don't think ever made a 135mm rear hub.  
Wheels Manufacturing makes cassette cog spacers designed to re-space your 
Shimano/SRAM cassette on your cheap Shimano hub into Campy spacing.

Bill thats-all-I-have Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 8:59:27 PM UTC-8, Adam Kilgas wrote:
>
> I'd put the White Industries hub up there in the "pricey" category as 
> well... The VO is better, but I suppose what I'm looking for is something 
> in the $100 range... You can find good quality Shimano/SRAM stuff all day 
> in that price range, but Campy is a whole 'nother level, it seems.

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