[RBW] Re: Introduction and a Rusty Question

[Joe Bernard]

I'll be the contrarian here and say I wouldn't buy a 10-year-old Riv with 
that much rust. There are too many gorgeous Rivendells out there that have 
been treated kindly by their owners. This Romulus is not one of them.
 
Joe "I miss my Rom" Bernard
Vallejo, CA.

On Friday, August 30, 2013 12:22:02 PM UTC-7, ChrisG wrote:

> Hi All,
> I've been following the group for a month or two now and have really 
> enjoyed learning about your escapes. I've been a bike commuter (on a 
> hardtail Brodie mtb) for most of my 22 working years, but that has really 
> tapered off in the past couple of years. Turns out the mtb really wasn't a 
> very good fit (sizing) at all, but when I was younger that never really 
> bothered me. I also just came to the realization that at nearly 50 years of 
> age,  my chances of winning the TdF are diminishing quickly ;) so I also 
> sold the harsh riding, low bar Al road bike I'd had for a decade.  
>
> I recently went to a good shop, was fit for, and bought a new Surly LHT. 
> It's completely rejuvenated my love for cycling. The bike is great, and the 
> fit is very Riv'ish: frame is 2-3 cm taller than my previous road bike and 
> I've got it set up very similar to the Riv recommendation for saddle and 
> bar height. The LHT had been my commuter and touring bike over the summer 
> and it's been great. But now I'm thinking that I'd like to add something a 
> little more spritely when I want to ride without racks and hopefully fall 
> less behind my two 100# kids who just fly up our very hilly terrain. And of 
> course I'm thinking of a Riv. I can't afford anything new right now, but 
> I've got a line on a used Rom that is in my price range. I haven't seen it 
> in person yet (it's a 2-3 hour drive away), but I would go and try it 
> before buying. I'm worried though that the frame has some rust. My Brodie 
> has some some rust spots on the frame that I've covered with clear nail 
> polish and they haven't seemed to cause a problem. The Riv Rom though has 
> rust in some of the lugs and I don't know if this should be a major concern 
> or not as I've never had experience with this. The seller was kind enough 
> to send me a pic of the worst spot and I've attached below. Hopefully the 
> photo is large enough for you to see (I have it much larger, but the groups 
> editor compresses it). Anyone have experience with rust in/near the lugs 
> like this? Would this make you steer clear or do you think it is likely not 
> a problem?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> ChrisG
> North Vancouver, BC
>
>
> 
>
>

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[RBW] My first Riv - a Sam Hill build: Solicitation for critique / advice / congratulations.

[cbone97]

Hi bunch!

Just wanted to share my joy.  After 2 to 3 years of getting back into bikes 
and wanting a Riv for nearly as long, I have parts on the way to build
up my orange dtt canti Waterford-built Sam that I scored here a few weeks 
back.  I've gone through a VO Polyvalent and a couple lesser bikes, and
nearly bought a Hunq and a new Sam in the past.  For various reasons I 
didn't pull the trigger, but now I have the frame I like better than the 
current Sams (namely the orange and canti studs).  Can't wait to get my 
parts (Riv and Amazon-sourced) in, get it built, and enjoy the magic.

Here's what will go into the build:
Sugino wide-low double (had this on my Polyvalent and love it. what a 
perfect product)
Grip Kings (would like to try the thin gripsters but am holding the cost 
down for now)
Tallux stem (had this on the Polyvalent.  will see where this puts the bars 
but aesthetically I think I'd prefer a dirt drop)
Nitto Grand Rando 132 bars (my 1st drops.  still have my Albas, but wasn't 
wild about them on the Polyvalent.)
Tektro TRP RRL SR brake levers, drilled and gum hoods 
Tektro CR720 brakes
Newbaum's tape (grey)
Conti Speedrides
Wheels are Dyads on LX
Brooks B17 aged (I have a honey B67 that may go up for sale soon)
Deore LX T661 rear derailer (front derailer = hand)
SunRace cheapy thumb shifter (love 'em)
Grey cable housing and brass ferrules (!)
King Iris cages
Tan Medium Shop Sack
Wald medium basket
Nitto R15 rack (will use on front for the basket)

If you've gotten this far, thanks for your interest. Will post pics when 
built.

One question: is there a Riv or other Serial # registration to add my bike 
to?

Thanks,
Charles in Missouri



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[RBW] So what's the best degreaser to use these days? (was El Duke...)

[bwg]

Hello,

I'm wondering what mild, effective degreaser options there are these days, 
since the excellent El Doo-kay is no longer available.

Thanks,
Bruce

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Re: [RBW] My first Riv - a Sam Hill build: Solicitation for critique / advice / congratulations.

[cyclotourist]

Charles, was that the 56cm double TT Sam that was for sale here? I
thought long and hard about that one at the time, but couldn't do that
and a new Quickbeam. Anyway, back to what sounds like a great build:
Looks like you have it built it very thoughtfully and should like it a
lot. I'm presuming it's pretty flat so you don't need to shift in
front much. Pretty trick set up there! Hope the drops work out well
for you. I like mine right at seat height, but nothing wrong w/ higher
or lower than that. Post some pics when you can.

On 8/31/13, cbone97  wrote:
> Hi bunch!
>
> Just wanted to share my joy.  After 2 to 3 years of getting back into bikes
>
> and wanting a Riv for nearly as long, I have parts on the way to build
> up my orange dtt canti Waterford-built Sam that I scored here a few weeks
> back.  I've gone through a VO Polyvalent and a couple lesser bikes, and
> nearly bought a Hunq and a new Sam in the past.  For various reasons I
> didn't pull the trigger, but now I have the frame I like better than the
> current Sams (namely the orange and canti studs).  Can't wait to get my
> parts (Riv and Amazon-sourced) in, get it built, and enjoy the magic.
>
> Here's what will go into the build:
> Sugino wide-low double (had this on my Polyvalent and love it. what a
> perfect product)
> Grip Kings (would like to try the thin gripsters but am holding the cost
> down for now)
> Tallux stem (had this on the Polyvalent.  will see where this puts the bars
>
> but aesthetically I think I'd prefer a dirt drop)
> Nitto Grand Rando 132 bars (my 1st drops.  still have my Albas, but wasn't
> wild about them on the Polyvalent.)
> Tektro TRP RRL SR brake levers, drilled and gum hoods
> Tektro CR720 brakes
> Newbaum's tape (grey)
> Conti Speedrides
> Wheels are Dyads on LX
> Brooks B17 aged (I have a honey B67 that may go up for sale soon)
> Deore LX T661 rear derailer (front derailer = hand)
> SunRace cheapy thumb shifter (love 'em)
> Grey cable housing and brass ferrules (!)
> King Iris cages
> Tan Medium Shop Sack
> Wald medium basket
> Nitto R15 rack (will use on front for the basket)
>
> If you've gotten this far, thanks for your interest. Will post pics when
> built.
>
> One question: is there a Riv or other Serial # registration to add my bike
> to?
>
> Thanks,
> Charles in Missouri
>
>
>
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-- 
Cheers,
David

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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Re: [RBW] My first Riv - a Sam Hill build: Solicitation for critique / advice / congratulations.

[cbone97]

Thanks David. Yes, it's the one that was for sale here.  Definitely has a 
few paint scars but overall in great shape and the price was right.

The majority of my riding is rails to trails with my family, but even 
around my neighborhood which is pretty hilly, the big ring on the double
had always been plenty.  Figured if I need to ride really hilly stuff I'll 
switch to the little ring and leave it there.  A shifter, cable, and 
derailer seems like a lot of stuff if one hardly ever needs to shift.  I 
plan to have the bars pretty high, but with the albas always found myself 
wanting to grab the furthest and lowest part of the bar by the stem.  Never 
thought I'd have drops but this is what pushed me toward them.  Maybe the 
Albas just weren't ideal on the Polyvalent.

On Saturday, August 31, 2013 10:09:38 AM UTC-5, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Charles, was that the 56cm double TT Sam that was for sale here? I 
> thought long and hard about that one at the time, but couldn't do that 
> and a new Quickbeam. Anyway, back to what sounds like a great build: 
> Looks like you have it built it very thoughtfully and should like it a 
> lot. I'm presuming it's pretty flat so you don't need to shift in 
> front much. Pretty trick set up there! Hope the drops work out well 
> for you. I like mine right at seat height, but nothing wrong w/ higher 
> or lower than that. Post some pics when you can. 
>
> On 8/31/13, cbone97 > wrote: 
> > Hi bunch! 
> > 
> > Just wanted to share my joy.  After 2 to 3 years of getting back into 
> bikes 
> > 
> > and wanting a Riv for nearly as long, I have parts on the way to build 
> > up my orange dtt canti Waterford-built Sam that I scored here a few 
> weeks 
> > back.  I've gone through a VO Polyvalent and a couple lesser bikes, and 
> > nearly bought a Hunq and a new Sam in the past.  For various reasons I 
> > didn't pull the trigger, but now I have the frame I like better than the 
> > current Sams (namely the orange and canti studs).  Can't wait to get my 
> > parts (Riv and Amazon-sourced) in, get it built, and enjoy the magic. 
> > 
> > Here's what will go into the build: 
> > Sugino wide-low double (had this on my Polyvalent and love it. what a 
> > perfect product) 
> > Grip Kings (would like to try the thin gripsters but am holding the cost 
> > down for now) 
> > Tallux stem (had this on the Polyvalent.  will see where this puts the 
> bars 
> > 
> > but aesthetically I think I'd prefer a dirt drop) 
> > Nitto Grand Rando 132 bars (my 1st drops.  still have my Albas, but 
> wasn't 
> > wild about them on the Polyvalent.) 
> > Tektro TRP RRL SR brake levers, drilled and gum hoods 
> > Tektro CR720 brakes 
> > Newbaum's tape (grey) 
> > Conti Speedrides 
> > Wheels are Dyads on LX 
> > Brooks B17 aged (I have a honey B67 that may go up for sale soon) 
> > Deore LX T661 rear derailer (front derailer = hand) 
> > SunRace cheapy thumb shifter (love 'em) 
> > Grey cable housing and brass ferrules (!) 
> > King Iris cages 
> > Tan Medium Shop Sack 
> > Wald medium basket 
> > Nitto R15 rack (will use on front for the basket) 
> > 
> > If you've gotten this far, thanks for your interest. Will post pics when 
> > built. 
> > 
> > One question: is there a Riv or other Serial # registration to add my 
> bike 
> > to? 
> > 
> > Thanks, 
> > Charles in Missouri 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
> Groups 
> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. 
> > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
> an 
> > email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com . 
> > To post to this group, send email to 
> > rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. 
>
> > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. 
> > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. 
> > 
>
>
> -- 
> Cheers, 
> David 
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal 
>

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Re: [RBW] My first Riv - a Sam Hill build: Solicitation for critique / advice / congratulations.

[cyclotourist]

Excellent, glad it has a good home!

You may want to try moustache bars. They only work for a % of the
population, if you're in that set, you'll like the way they give you
outside/alba-esque position, as well as a forward position by the
bars. Typically need a shorter stem, and if you're already using a
short DD stem, you may not be able to get it dialed in. Although the
newer style ones might alleviate that problem.

On 8/31/13, cbone97  wrote:
> Thanks David. Yes, it's the one that was for sale here.  Definitely has a
> few paint scars but overall in great shape and the price was right.
>
> The majority of my riding is rails to trails with my family, but even
> around my neighborhood which is pretty hilly, the big ring on the double
> had always been plenty.  Figured if I need to ride really hilly stuff I'll
> switch to the little ring and leave it there.  A shifter, cable, and
> derailer seems like a lot of stuff if one hardly ever needs to shift.  I
> plan to have the bars pretty high, but with the albas always found myself
> wanting to grab the furthest and lowest part of the bar by the stem.  Never
>
> thought I'd have drops but this is what pushed me toward them.  Maybe the
> Albas just weren't ideal on the Polyvalent.
>
> On Saturday, August 31, 2013 10:09:38 AM UTC-5, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> Charles, was that the 56cm double TT Sam that was for sale here? I
>> thought long and hard about that one at the time, but couldn't do that
>> and a new Quickbeam. Anyway, back to what sounds like a great build:
>> Looks like you have it built it very thoughtfully and should like it a
>> lot. I'm presuming it's pretty flat so you don't need to shift in
>> front much. Pretty trick set up there! Hope the drops work out well
>> for you. I like mine right at seat height, but nothing wrong w/ higher
>> or lower than that. Post some pics when you can.
>>
>> On 8/31/13, cbone97 > wrote:
>> > Hi bunch!
>> >
>> > Just wanted to share my joy.  After 2 to 3 years of getting back into
>> bikes
>> >
>> > and wanting a Riv for nearly as long, I have parts on the way to build
>> > up my orange dtt canti Waterford-built Sam that I scored here a few
>> weeks
>> > back.  I've gone through a VO Polyvalent and a couple lesser bikes, and
>> >
>> > nearly bought a Hunq and a new Sam in the past.  For various reasons I
>> > didn't pull the trigger, but now I have the frame I like better than the
>> >
>> > current Sams (namely the orange and canti studs).  Can't wait to get my
>> >
>> > parts (Riv and Amazon-sourced) in, get it built, and enjoy the magic.
>> >
>> > Here's what will go into the build:
>> > Sugino wide-low double (had this on my Polyvalent and love it. what a
>> > perfect product)
>> > Grip Kings (would like to try the thin gripsters but am holding the cost
>> >
>> > down for now)
>> > Tallux stem (had this on the Polyvalent.  will see where this puts the
>> bars
>> >
>> > but aesthetically I think I'd prefer a dirt drop)
>> > Nitto Grand Rando 132 bars (my 1st drops.  still have my Albas, but
>> wasn't
>> > wild about them on the Polyvalent.)
>> > Tektro TRP RRL SR brake levers, drilled and gum hoods
>> > Tektro CR720 brakes
>> > Newbaum's tape (grey)
>> > Conti Speedrides
>> > Wheels are Dyads on LX
>> > Brooks B17 aged (I have a honey B67 that may go up for sale soon)
>> > Deore LX T661 rear derailer (front derailer = hand)
>> > SunRace cheapy thumb shifter (love 'em)
>> > Grey cable housing and brass ferrules (!)
>> > King Iris cages
>> > Tan Medium Shop Sack
>> > Wald medium basket
>> > Nitto R15 rack (will use on front for the basket)
>> >
>> > If you've gotten this far, thanks for your interest. Will post pics when
>> >
>> > built.
>> >
>> > One question: is there a Riv or other Serial # registration to add my
>> bike
>> > to?
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> > Charles in Missouri
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>> Groups
>> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>> an
>> > email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com .
>> > To post to this group, send email to
>> > rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com.
>>
>> > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch.
>> > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
>> >
>>
>>
>> --
>> Cheers,
>> David
>>
>> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>>
>
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-- 
Cheers,
David

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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You received this

[RBW] Re: Help needed from the collective mind.

[Jeremy Till]

Hi Clayton-

No expert or anything here, just throwing out other ideas.  If I remember 
correctly from pictures of your Atlantis you've posted here, the WB 
suspension seatpost you have is a zero offset seatpost, which when combined 
with the B17, even given the relatively slack STA of the Atlantis (72 deg, 
I would guess) might still give you a relatively forward riding position.  
I find, especially with brooks, that even with a STA in the 72 deg region I 
need a high-offset seatpost to feel well balanced and not like I'm loading 
up my hands and arms all the time.  I use the Nitto S-84 "Wayback" post on 
my Quickbeam (with a Flyer) and my Long Haul Trucker (with a B17).  Of 
course, this will also increase your reach to the handlebars, so it might 
be something to try in combination with trying a more upright bar like the 
Bosco or Albatross, again.   Also no suspension, so maybe time to invest in 
a sprung saddle?

Just an idea

-jeremy


On Thursday, August 29, 2013 11:36:24 AM UTC-7, Clayton wrote:
>
> I just got back from my Nerve doctor, a Physiatrist, pain specialist...I 
> have had four total carpal tunnel surgeries. Three on my hands and one 
> ulnar nerve relocation in my left elbow. The results from my latest nerve 
> conduction study show that I have rather bad nerve damage in my left elbow 
> that is permanent. Riding antagonizes the pain and numbness. I ride a 
> Rivendell Atlantis and it has been pretty much my only bike for the past 20 
> years or so. I run a White Brothers suspension seatpost, B-17 saddle, 2.2 
> wide tires at 40 psi, 100mm dirtdrop stem at max extension and woodchipper 
> bars. I wear gel gloves and use brooks handlebar tape. I see two options. 
> Sell my Atlantis (oh God NO!) and buy a 29er with a front suspension fork 
> or full suspension (I have a bad back and have had multiple back surgeries) 
> or run my air pressure at 20psi with ridiculously fat handlebar padding.  I 
> have very little weight on my hands as the *bottoms of the drops are 
> level or higher than my saddle*. I have tried flat bars, bike fits, 
> noodles, alt bars etc. The wood chippers are the most comfy so far. Does 
> anyone have any experience with numb hands and cyclist palsy? I am counting 
> on the collective mind...P.S. I have been a race team mechanic, a racers 
> coach and managed bike shops, so I am somewhat knowledgable on bike fit and 
> options. Also I can't ride stooped over due to my back problems, ie; road 
> bike position. Rest isn't an option, because I refuse to own a car (PTSD 
> issues) and the bike is my only transportation. Help? Thanks in advance. 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] WTB: A. Homer Hilsen 55cm, 700c wheel size. FF only

[Jimmy Hutch]

Choices.  They are wonderful but come with the cost of having to decide.  Lucky 
for you that all the choices sound like winners.

Regarding the 55cm/700c Hilsen, I agree that they are available, Keven at Riv 
offered it as an anternative to the 54cm/650b, which i choose instead.  I 
suspect the 55cm would be better in a dry climate where mudguards are not 
required, 700c with mudguards would almost certainly introduce toe overlap.

As for the Hislen vs. Sam.  Based on your intended use, either would be 
excellent, as would many much lesser bikes.  It sounds like emotion will drive 
your decision more than reason.  For me, the Hilsen wins every time.

-Jimmy

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Re: [RBW] Re: Introduction and a Rusty Question

[William]

i assume thats my stumpjumper.  are we cool or should i buy it back from you?  
whatever you think is fair.  did you get it blasted?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help needed from the collective mind.

[cyclotourist]

Have you gone the counter-intuitve approach and tried bars with
minimal/no padding? Maybe just some cloth tape? The fatter the wrap,
the less comfortable I am, but that's w/out the nerve damage you're
dealing with.

On 8/31/13, Jeremy Till  wrote:
> Hi Clayton-
>
> No expert or anything here, just throwing out other ideas.  If I remember
> correctly from pictures of your Atlantis you've posted here, the WB
> suspension seatpost you have is a zero offset seatpost, which when combined
>
> with the B17, even given the relatively slack STA of the Atlantis (72 deg,
> I would guess) might still give you a relatively forward riding position.
> I find, especially with brooks, that even with a STA in the 72 deg region I
>
> need a high-offset seatpost to feel well balanced and not like I'm loading
> up my hands and arms all the time.  I use the Nitto S-84 "Wayback" post on
> my Quickbeam (with a Flyer) and my Long Haul Trucker (with a B17).  Of
> course, this will also increase your reach to the handlebars, so it might
> be something to try in combination with trying a more upright bar like the
> Bosco or Albatross, again.   Also no suspension, so maybe time to invest in
>
> a sprung saddle?
>
> Just an idea
>
> -jeremy
>
>
> On Thursday, August 29, 2013 11:36:24 AM UTC-7, Clayton wrote:
>>
>> I just got back from my Nerve doctor, a Physiatrist, pain specialist...I
>> have had four total carpal tunnel surgeries. Three on my hands and one
>> ulnar nerve relocation in my left elbow. The results from my latest nerve
>>
>> conduction study show that I have rather bad nerve damage in my left elbow
>>
>> that is permanent. Riding antagonizes the pain and numbness. I ride a
>> Rivendell Atlantis and it has been pretty much my only bike for the past
>> 20
>> years or so. I run a White Brothers suspension seatpost, B-17 saddle, 2.2
>>
>> wide tires at 40 psi, 100mm dirtdrop stem at max extension and woodchipper
>>
>> bars. I wear gel gloves and use brooks handlebar tape. I see two options.
>>
>> Sell my Atlantis (oh God NO!) and buy a 29er with a front suspension fork
>>
>> or full suspension (I have a bad back and have had multiple back
>> surgeries)
>> or run my air pressure at 20psi with ridiculously fat handlebar padding.
>> I
>> have very little weight on my hands as the *bottoms of the drops are
>> level or higher than my saddle*. I have tried flat bars, bike fits,
>> noodles, alt bars etc. The wood chippers are the most comfy so far. Does
>> anyone have any experience with numb hands and cyclist palsy? I am
>> counting
>> on the collective mind...P.S. I have been a race team mechanic, a racers
>> coach and managed bike shops, so I am somewhat knowledgable on bike fit
>> and
>> options. Also I can't ride stooped over due to my back problems, ie; road
>>
>> bike position. Rest isn't an option, because I refuse to own a car (PTSD
>> issues) and the bike is my only transportation. Help? Thanks in advance.
>>
>>
>
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[RBW] Re: Introduction and a Rusty Question

[ChrisG]

Thanks WIlliam and Johnny for your advice.  That makes sense to me. I'm not 
opposed to getting it blasted and powder coated. So I think I might proceed 
cautiously. Rom's sold new for about $1500 correct? So what would be a 
reasonable price for a sound, but with some rust, Rom like this?

Chris

On Friday, August 30, 2013 4:47:23 PM UTC-7, Johnny Alien wrote:
>
> I agree that if it's surface rust than it's no big deal but I would also 
> look into getting it blasted and powdercoated.  The headbadges are on there 
> with double stick tape right?  If so then it's easy to save and since there 
> is no cream accents on a Rom you won't feel bad doing it.  That being said 
> the price would need to be right.  Rom's don't sell for too much to begin 
> with and I would look for a substantial discount for the rust.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help needed from the collective mind.

[Cyclofiend Jim]

Yeah... I was just going to post a similar experience to cyclotourist's.

When I put Oury grips on my mtb, I had pretty immediate wrist and hand 
issues. Dropping back to a slim profile grip eliminated it. 

You might play with thin diameter bar/tape combined with a specific gel pad 
right at the point of pain - that would reduce direct impact and vibration, 
but let you keep your hand in a more close position.

Best of luck and sorry to hear you are having such troubles.

- Jim

cyclofiend.com

On Saturday, August 31, 2013 9:42:25 AM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Have you gone the counter-intuitve approach and tried bars with 
> minimal/no padding? Maybe just some cloth tape? The fatter the wrap, 
> the less comfortable I am, but that's w/out the nerve damage you're 
> dealing with. 
>
> On 8/31/13, Jeremy Till > wrote: 
> > Hi Clayton- 
> > 
> > No expert or anything here, just throwing out other ideas.  If I 
> remember 
> > correctly from pictures of your Atlantis you've posted here, the WB 
> > suspension seatpost you have is a zero offset seatpost, which when 
> combined 
> > 
> > with the B17, even given the relatively slack STA of the Atlantis (72 
> deg, 
> > I would guess) might still give you a relatively forward riding 
> position. 
> > I find, especially with brooks, that even with a STA in the 72 deg 
> region I 
> > 
> > need a high-offset seatpost to feel well balanced and not like I'm 
> loading 
> > up my hands and arms all the time.  I use the Nitto S-84 "Wayback" post 
> on 
> > my Quickbeam (with a Flyer) and my Long Haul Trucker (with a B17).  Of 
> > course, this will also increase your reach to the handlebars, so it 
> might 
> > be something to try in combination with trying a more upright bar like 
> the 
> > Bosco or Albatross, again.   Also no suspension, so maybe time to invest 
> in 
> > 
> > a sprung saddle? 
> > 
> > Just an idea 
> > 
> > -jeremy 
> > 
> > 
> > On Thursday, August 29, 2013 11:36:24 AM UTC-7, Clayton wrote: 
> >> 
> >> I just got back from my Nerve doctor, a Physiatrist, pain 
> specialist...I 
> >> have had four total carpal tunnel surgeries. Three on my hands and one 
> >> ulnar nerve relocation in my left elbow. The results from my latest 
> nerve 
> >> 
> >> conduction study show that I have rather bad nerve damage in my left 
> elbow 
> >> 
> >> that is permanent. Riding antagonizes the pain and numbness. I ride a 
> >> Rivendell Atlantis and it has been pretty much my only bike for the 
> past 
> >> 20 
> >> years or so. I run a White Brothers suspension seatpost, B-17 saddle, 
> 2.2 
> >> 
> >> wide tires at 40 psi, 100mm dirtdrop stem at max extension and 
> woodchipper 
> >> 
> >> bars. I wear gel gloves and use brooks handlebar tape. I see two 
> options. 
> >> 
> >> Sell my Atlantis (oh God NO!) and buy a 29er with a front suspension 
> fork 
> >> 
> >> or full suspension (I have a bad back and have had multiple back 
> >> surgeries) 
> >> or run my air pressure at 20psi with ridiculously fat handlebar 
> padding. 
> >> I 
> >> have very little weight on my hands as the *bottoms of the drops are 
> >> level or higher than my saddle*. I have tried flat bars, bike fits, 
> >> noodles, alt bars etc. The wood chippers are the most comfy so far. 
> Does 
> >> anyone have any experience with numb hands and cyclist palsy? I am 
> >> counting 
> >> on the collective mind...P.S. I have been a race team mechanic, a 
> racers 
> >> coach and managed bike shops, so I am somewhat knowledgable on bike fit 
> >> and 
> >> options. Also I can't ride stooped over due to my back problems, ie; 
> road 
> >> 
> >> bike position. Rest isn't an option, because I refuse to own a car 
> (PTSD 
> >> issues) and the bike is my only transportation. Help? Thanks in 
> advance. 
> >> 
> >> 
> > 
> > -- 
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> Groups 
> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. 
> > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
> an 
> > email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com . 
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>
> > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. 
> > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. 
> > 
>
>
> -- 
> Cheers, 
> David 
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal 
>

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[RBW] Re: Help needed from the collective mind.

[George Schick]

I have access to a dual boinger Trek Fuel 90 MTB with wide flat bars. 
 Along with that frame, which puts much pretty much in an upright position, 
I have more hand numbness issues than I do with my other three bikes, two 
of which have drop bars.  In other words, I'm not sure that the suspension 
is going to do much for your issues.

Like some of the other posters, I'd be strongly inclined consider either a 
recumbent or a trike - at least for a while (which could become permanent 
if things improve enough).

On Friday, August 30, 2013 2:48:33 PM UTC-5, Clayton wrote:
>
> *I have been thinking of going to a full boinger 29er, but.. 
> Rivendell doesn't make them.sni.*
>
>
> On Thursday, August 29, 2013 12:10:09 PM UTC-7, William wrote:
>>
>> Boy that sounds pretty horrible.  A former co-worker at the bike shop had 
>> pretty major hand and elbow problems as well, and the four things in life 
>> he really liked doing were: drawing, guitar, cycling and mechanic work. 
>>  All four severely aggravated his conditions.  I know it was hard.  He did 
>> use a full-susp 29er for quite a while.  He also used a recumbent for a 
>> while.
>>
>> On Thursday, August 29, 2013 11:36:24 AM UTC-7, Clayton wrote:
>>>
>>> I just got back from my Nerve doctor, a Physiatrist, pain specialist...I 
>>> have had four total carpal tunnel surgeries. Three on my hands and one 
>>> ulnar nerve relocation in my left elbow. The results from my latest nerve 
>>> conduction study show that I have rather bad nerve damage in my left elbow 
>>> that is permanent. Riding antagonizes the pain and numbness. I ride a 
>>> Rivendell Atlantis and it has been pretty much my only bike for the past 20 
>>> years or so. I run a White Brothers suspension seatpost, B-17 saddle, 2.2 
>>> wide tires at 40 psi, 100mm dirtdrop stem at max extension and woodchipper 
>>> bars. I wear gel gloves and use brooks handlebar tape. I see two options. 
>>> Sell my Atlantis (oh God NO!) and buy a 29er with a front suspension fork 
>>> or full suspension (I have a bad back and have had multiple back surgeries) 
>>> or run my air pressure at 20psi with ridiculously fat handlebar padding.  I 
>>> have very little weight on my hands as the *bottoms of the drops are 
>>> level or higher than my saddle*. I have tried flat bars, bike fits, 
>>> noodles, alt bars etc. The wood chippers are the most comfy so far. Does 
>>> anyone have any experience with numb hands and cyclist palsy? I am counting 
>>> on the collective mind...P.S. I have been a race team mechanic, a racers 
>>> coach and managed bike shops, so I am somewhat knowledgable on bike fit and 
>>> options. Also I can't ride stooped over due to my back problems, ie; road 
>>> bike position. Rest isn't an option, because I refuse to own a car (PTSD 
>>> issues) and the bike is my only transportation. Help? Thanks in advance. 
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Introduction and a Rusty Question

[Cyclofiend Jim]

I think it all comes down to price, but I wouldn't really sweat it.   
Speaking of sweat, I would ask the owner if they used it in a trainer.  
That may be the culprit or that type of rust pattern. My guess is that some 
of that will just wipe off and then a little judicious work with some 
super-fine steel wool will take care of the rest.  

My '90 MB1 has rust edges around the headtube, and have had them since I 
bought the bike (not the original owner...) I can see no flex in the paint 
and so far it's remained on my über-sloth list of "get to someday"

The top tube corrosion is probably the one I'd deal with.  Don't have a Rom 
color match here, but clear is always a choice - 
http://www.cyclofiend.com/rbw/color.html

The one thing I would absolutely do if I bought it would be to drop the 
fork and pull the headset cups and make sure there isn't any old saltberg 
hiding in the headtube. 

best of luck!

- Jim / cyclofiend.com

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[RBW] Re: So what's the best degreaser to use these days? (was El Duke...)

[Cyclofiend Jim]

Dawn dishwashing liquid in warm water. 

Simple Green cut about 1:1.

- Jim / cyclofiend.com

On Saturday, August 31, 2013 7:51:19 AM UTC-7, bwg wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I'm wondering what mild, effective degreaser options there are these days, 
> since the excellent El Doo-kay is no longer available.
>
> Thanks,
> Bruce
>

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[RBW] Re: My first Riv - a Sam Hill build: Solicitation for critique / advice / congratulations.

[Dave Johnston]

Riv has a serial number database but when I go the page I get nothing using 
firefox:

https://www.rivbike.com/Articles.asp?ID=323


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Re: [RBW] Re: Fender/Tire Clearance w/ the Pass and Stow front Rack?

[jphillip...@me.com]

Hi Mike,

   You were right, P&S makes two different size racks.  

I had emailed Matt how much clearance I needed over my front tire/fender, 
but Matt must have been too busy & pre-occupied to mention rack sizes or to 
remember to ask me about the details of my bike.

But in response to my last email, Matt sent me a list of questions to help 
determine which size rack I need for my Hunqapillar, so all's good!

Thanks for your help,

John



On Friday, August 30, 2013 5:31:00 PM UTC-7, Mike wrote:
>
> P&S make two kinds of racks. They're not custom. One of them is for 29ers 
> so it has taller clearance. But like others have said, email Matt. 
>
> --mike
>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Anomaly ? No, End-User Learning Experience

[hangtownmatt]

Maybe, but I was fitted by Rivendell at Rivendell.  And to be fair, it is 
borderline, but I'm now using the Kalloy setback seat post with a 9 cm stem 
and don't consider that too extreme. I am comfortable, but Albatross handle 
bars could be in my future to dial in that last bit of comfort.

Things can quickly get very convoluted it the fitment arena; for me 
anyway.  See below:

I used the zero setback seat post in an effort to alleviate a nasty puss 
infected saddle sore that just wouldn't go away.  But first I tried bicycle 
shorts, no bicycle shorts with quick dry underwear, padded underwear, and 
all sorts of creams and lotions.  Nothing worked.  I already had the 
Thomsom zero set back seat post and figured I'd give it a try because it 
had  dual screw micro adjustment.  When that didn't help, I blamed the 
Brooks B-17, and replaced it with a Specialized plastic saddle.  This did 
the trick and I could feel the saddle sore(s) heal as I rode.   I left well 
enough alone for a while until one day I got a bug up my butt to swap the 
10cm handlebar stem with a 9cm off another bike.  This did shorten the 
reach and put me in a considerably more upright position.  It is amazing 
the difference 1cm can make.  But after one week (approx. 200 miles) my sit 
bones were hurting so bad in this upright position I had to get rid of the 
Specialized saddle.  I figured I'd give the B-17 another try.  So off came 
the Specialized saddle with seat post attached and on went the B-17.  I 
used the Kalloy setback seat post because I didn't want to mess with the 
adjustment on the Specialized/Thomson combination.  I just set this aside 
on the work bench.

The Brooks is working very well.  I'm still making small adjustments but 
have high hopes.  One change I did make, and I think this could have been 
the cause of my saddle sores all along, is I lowered the saddle just a 
bit.   I'd never used a saddle height formula before in all my life and 
never had problems.  But when I got Sam I wanted everything perfect so I 
did a little research and found the following two:

Saddle Height = PBH minus 11" or PBH * 0.883

Using these calculations my saddle height should be 80.5 or 80.7945 
respectively.  I now have it set at 78.8 and show no signs of recurring 
saddle sores.  

Matt




On Friday, August 30, 2013 10:18:47 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Matt, w/out knowing much else, if you have to use a zero setback post 
> and a real short stem to get comfortable, I'm guessing the frame is 
> too big. 
>
> On 8/30/13, hangtownmatt > wrote: 
> > I agree, and I wouldn't be surprised if the Sam Hillborne was optimally 
> > designed for the Albatross handlebars. 
> > 
> > Matt 
> > 
> > On Friday, August 30, 2013 8:13:11 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote: 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> I think Grant's designs favor a butt-back position, for handling as 
> well 
> >> as comfort and power. At least my Rivs, including the Sam HIll, all 
> seemed 
> >> 
> >> to handle best when I have my saddle rearward -- the long stays would 
> >> indicate this, too. 
> >> 
> >> On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 8:26 AM, hangtownmatt 
> >>  
> >> > wrote: 
> >> 
> >>> As I was riding to work this morning I remembered I made another 
> change. 
> >>> 
> >>> After I replaced the stem with the shorter one, it wasn't long before 
> I 
> >>> realized that my current saddle was not going to work in the more 
> upright 
> >>> 
> >>> position.  So I removed the seat along with the zero setback seat 
> post, 
> >>> something I had added before to reduce stretch, and replaced it with 
> the 
> >>> 
> >>> original Kalloy set back seat post and Brooks B-17.  So, in all 
> honesty, 
> >>> it 
> >>> was the combination of a shorter stem and a set back seat post that 
> >>> changed 
> >>> the handling characteristics.  Not surprising.  Hence this threads 
> title 
> >>> 
> >>> change. 
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >> -- 
> >> *RESUMES THAT GET YOU NOTICED!* 
> >> Certified Resume Writer 
> >> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html 
> >> patric...@resumespecialties.com  
> >> http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/ 
> >> 
> >> Albuquerque, NM 
> >> 
> > 
> > -- 
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> Groups 
> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. 
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>
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> > 
>
>
> -- 
> Cheers, 
> David 
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help needed from the collective mind.

[Deacon Patrick]

Or a large diameter grip that is not padded. I love my cork grips covered 
with cotton tape. Amazing conductivity of the road/trail and my big hands 
are happy.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Saturday, August 31, 2013 11:06:18 AM UTC-6, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
>
> Yeah... I was just going to post a similar experience to cyclotourist's.
>
> When I put Oury grips on my mtb, I had pretty immediate wrist and hand 
> issues. Dropping back to a slim profile grip eliminated it. 
>
> You might play with thin diameter bar/tape combined with a specific gel 
> pad right at the point of pain - that would reduce direct impact and 
> vibration, but let you keep your hand in a more close position.
>
> Best of luck and sorry to hear you are having such troubles.
>
> - Jim
>
> cyclofiend.com
>
> On Saturday, August 31, 2013 9:42:25 AM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> Have you gone the counter-intuitve approach and tried bars with 
>> minimal/no padding? Maybe just some cloth tape? The fatter the wrap, 
>> the less comfortable I am, but that's w/out the nerve damage you're 
>> dealing with. 
>>
>> On 8/31/13, Jeremy Till  wrote: 
>> > Hi Clayton- 
>> > 
>> > No expert or anything here, just throwing out other ideas.  If I 
>> remember 
>> > correctly from pictures of your Atlantis you've posted here, the WB 
>> > suspension seatpost you have is a zero offset seatpost, which when 
>> combined 
>> > 
>> > with the B17, even given the relatively slack STA of the Atlantis (72 
>> deg, 
>> > I would guess) might still give you a relatively forward riding 
>> position. 
>> > I find, especially with brooks, that even with a STA in the 72 deg 
>> region I 
>> > 
>> > need a high-offset seatpost to feel well balanced and not like I'm 
>> loading 
>> > up my hands and arms all the time.  I use the Nitto S-84 "Wayback" post 
>> on 
>> > my Quickbeam (with a Flyer) and my Long Haul Trucker (with a B17).  Of 
>> > course, this will also increase your reach to the handlebars, so it 
>> might 
>> > be something to try in combination with trying a more upright bar like 
>> the 
>> > Bosco or Albatross, again.   Also no suspension, so maybe time to 
>> invest in 
>> > 
>> > a sprung saddle? 
>> > 
>> > Just an idea 
>> > 
>> > -jeremy 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > On Thursday, August 29, 2013 11:36:24 AM UTC-7, Clayton wrote: 
>> >> 
>> >> I just got back from my Nerve doctor, a Physiatrist, pain 
>> specialist...I 
>> >> have had four total carpal tunnel surgeries. Three on my hands and one 
>> >> ulnar nerve relocation in my left elbow. The results from my latest 
>> nerve 
>> >> 
>> >> conduction study show that I have rather bad nerve damage in my left 
>> elbow 
>> >> 
>> >> that is permanent. Riding antagonizes the pain and numbness. I ride a 
>> >> Rivendell Atlantis and it has been pretty much my only bike for the 
>> past 
>> >> 20 
>> >> years or so. I run a White Brothers suspension seatpost, B-17 saddle, 
>> 2.2 
>> >> 
>> >> wide tires at 40 psi, 100mm dirtdrop stem at max extension and 
>> woodchipper 
>> >> 
>> >> bars. I wear gel gloves and use brooks handlebar tape. I see two 
>> options. 
>> >> 
>> >> Sell my Atlantis (oh God NO!) and buy a 29er with a front suspension 
>> fork 
>> >> 
>> >> or full suspension (I have a bad back and have had multiple back 
>> >> surgeries) 
>> >> or run my air pressure at 20psi with ridiculously fat handlebar 
>> padding. 
>> >> I 
>> >> have very little weight on my hands as the *bottoms of the drops are 
>> >> level or higher than my saddle*. I have tried flat bars, bike fits, 
>> >> noodles, alt bars etc. The wood chippers are the most comfy so far. 
>> Does 
>> >> anyone have any experience with numb hands and cyclist palsy? I am 
>> >> counting 
>> >> on the collective mind...P.S. I have been a race team mechanic, a 
>> racers 
>> >> coach and managed bike shops, so I am somewhat knowledgable on bike 
>> fit 
>> >> and 
>> >> options. Also I can't ride stooped over due to my back problems, ie; 
>> road 
>> >> 
>> >> bike position. Rest isn't an option, because I refuse to own a car 
>> (PTSD 
>> >> issues) and the bike is my only transportation. Help? Thanks in 
>> advance. 
>> >> 
>> >> 
>> > 
>> > -- 
>> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>> Groups 
>> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. 
>> > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>> an 
>> > email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. 
>> > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. 
>> > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. 
>> > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. 
>> > 
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Cheers, 
>> David 
>>
>> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Anomaly ? No, End-User Learning Experience

[cyclotourist]

Disregard my comment, 9cm isn't a short stem in my book (that's what I
use!) and the straight post isn't there for reach issues (saddle sores
sound awful!). I was thinking 7cm or less on the stem and the straight
post in an effort to get your body closer to the bars for reach
issues.

So yeah, you are good to go!

On 8/31/13, hangtownmatt  wrote:
> Maybe, but I was fitted by Rivendell at Rivendell.  And to be fair, it is
> borderline, but I'm now using the Kalloy setback seat post with a 9 cm stem
>
> and don't consider that too extreme. I am comfortable, but Albatross handle
>
> bars could be in my future to dial in that last bit of comfort.
>
> Things can quickly get very convoluted it the fitment arena; for me
> anyway.  See below:
>
> I used the zero setback seat post in an effort to alleviate a nasty puss
> infected saddle sore that just wouldn't go away.  But first I tried bicycle
>
> shorts, no bicycle shorts with quick dry underwear, padded underwear, and
> all sorts of creams and lotions.  Nothing worked.  I already had the
> Thomsom zero set back seat post and figured I'd give it a try because it
> had  dual screw micro adjustment.  When that didn't help, I blamed the
> Brooks B-17, and replaced it with a Specialized plastic saddle.  This did
> the trick and I could feel the saddle sore(s) heal as I rode.   I left well
>
> enough alone for a while until one day I got a bug up my butt to swap the
> 10cm handlebar stem with a 9cm off another bike.  This did shorten the
> reach and put me in a considerably more upright position.  It is amazing
> the difference 1cm can make.  But after one week (approx. 200 miles) my sit
>
> bones were hurting so bad in this upright position I had to get rid of the
> Specialized saddle.  I figured I'd give the B-17 another try.  So off came
> the Specialized saddle with seat post attached and on went the B-17.  I
> used the Kalloy setback seat post because I didn't want to mess with the
> adjustment on the Specialized/Thomson combination.  I just set this aside
> on the work bench.
>
> The Brooks is working very well.  I'm still making small adjustments but
> have high hopes.  One change I did make, and I think this could have been
> the cause of my saddle sores all along, is I lowered the saddle just a
> bit.   I'd never used a saddle height formula before in all my life and
> never had problems.  But when I got Sam I wanted everything perfect so I
> did a little research and found the following two:
>
> Saddle Height = PBH minus 11" or PBH * 0.883
>
> Using these calculations my saddle height should be 80.5 or 80.7945
> respectively.  I now have it set at 78.8 and show no signs of recurring
> saddle sores.
>
> Matt
>
>
>
>
> On Friday, August 30, 2013 10:18:47 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> Matt, w/out knowing much else, if you have to use a zero setback post
>> and a real short stem to get comfortable, I'm guessing the frame is
>> too big.
>>
>> On 8/30/13, hangtownmatt > wrote:
>> > I agree, and I wouldn't be surprised if the Sam Hillborne was optimally
>> >
>> > designed for the Albatross handlebars.
>> >
>> > Matt
>> >
>> > On Friday, August 30, 2013 8:13:11 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> I think Grant's designs favor a butt-back position, for handling as
>> well
>> >> as comfort and power. At least my Rivs, including the Sam HIll, all
>> seemed
>> >>
>> >> to handle best when I have my saddle rearward -- the long stays would
>> >> indicate this, too.
>> >>
>> >> On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 8:26 AM, hangtownmatt
>> >> 
>> >> > wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> As I was riding to work this morning I remembered I made another
>> change.
>> >>>
>> >>> After I replaced the stem with the shorter one, it wasn't long before
>> >>>
>> I
>> >>> realized that my current saddle was not going to work in the more
>> upright
>> >>>
>> >>> position.  So I removed the seat along with the zero setback seat
>> post,
>> >>> something I had added before to reduce stretch, and replaced it with
>> the
>> >>>
>> >>> original Kalloy set back seat post and Brooks B-17.  So, in all
>> honesty,
>> >>> it
>> >>> was the combination of a shorter stem and a set back seat post that
>> >>> changed
>> >>> the handling characteristics.  Not surprising.  Hence this threads
>> title
>> >>>
>> >>> change.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >> --
>> >> *RESUMES THAT GET YOU NOTICED!*
>> >> Certified Resume Writer
>> >> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
>> >> patric...@resumespecialties.com 
>> >> http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>> >>
>> >> Albuquerque, NM
>> >>
>> >
>> > --
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>> Groups
>> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> an
>> > email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com .
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>> > rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com.
>>
>> > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch.
>> > For more

[RBW] Re: Stolen SimpleOne (Sacramento)

[David]

Found!  Thirty days later.  Pawn shop in town had it listed on CL.  Very 
kind RBW Group member alerted me to it.  It's unharmed.  We picked it up 
today.  Thief sold it to the pawn shop for $60 (which I had to pay), and 
the pawn shop had it for sale for $600.  Thanks for all your kind thoughts.

On Tuesday, August 13, 2013 1:30:39 PM UTC-7, David wrote:
>
> These recovery attempts are a long-shot, but I have to try.  My SimpleOne 
> was stolen a couple weeks ago.  Police report filed within 24 hours.  No 
> luck yet.  Thanks for your time.
>  
> http://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/3999794563.html
>
>
> 
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: So what's the best degreaser to use these days? (was El Duke...)

[Garth]

 
I use Oasis Biocompatible, Dishwash/All Purpose Cleaner these days .  If 
you found El Duke to be excellent  then this should be doubly so. I 
didn't find El Duke to be very good myself. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Stolen SimpleOne (Sacramento)

[Mike Williams]

Yess!   So glad to hear you got you bike back,   Just made my day!   -Mike

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 31, 2013, at 11:54 AM, David  wrote:

> Found!  Thirty days later.  Pawn shop in town had it listed on CL.  Very kind 
> RBW Group member alerted me to it.  It's unharmed.  We picked it up today.  
> Thief sold it to the pawn shop for $60 (which I had to pay), and the pawn 
> shop had it for sale for $600.  Thanks for all your kind thoughts.
> 
> On Tuesday, August 13, 2013 1:30:39 PM UTC-7, David wrote:
>> 
>> These recovery attempts are a long-shot, but I have to try.  My SimpleOne 
>> was stolen a couple weeks ago.  Police report filed within 24 hours.  No 
>> luck yet.  Thanks for your time.
>>  
>> http://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/3999794563.html
>> 
>> 
>>  
> 
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[RBW] Re: A Riv-ish Mapping GPS...?

[Sean Cleary]

I'm really glad you posted information about this new unit Tony. This past 
year,  I've heavily debated whether or not to get the Garmin Edge 200 to 
replace the 2 low cost Sigma computers that I juggle between four bikes. One of 
the Sigmas that I use is near 10 years and simply wont die to merit 
replacement. The other one his wireless and randomly decides not to compute on 
some days like today, ironically.

What most appeals to me about GPS units is not being limited to just two bikes, 
nor having to recalibrate for every tire switch which i do every season. I'll 
probably pass on the "touring" model until I've gotten lost enough times to 
justify the map feature; the extra $130 over the Edge 200 will buy a lot of 
paper maps!

Sean 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Stolen SimpleOne (Sacramento)

[Ray Shine]

Great! Glad of happy ending. By the wsy, since you did report the theft, you 
should not have to pay the pawn. That's on them. They must return your $60 or 
make other compensation. Lots of stuff in the shop are probably hot.

Sent from my iPhone.

On Aug 31, 2013, at 11:54 AM, David  wrote:

> Found!  Thirty days later.  Pawn shop in town had it listed on CL.  Very kind 
> RBW Group member alerted me to it.  It's unharmed.  We picked it up today.  
> Thief sold it to the pawn shop for $60 (which I had to pay), and the pawn 
> shop had it for sale for $600.  Thanks for all your kind thoughts.
> 
> On Tuesday, August 13, 2013 1:30:39 PM UTC-7, David wrote:
>> 
>> These recovery attempts are a long-shot, but I have to try.  My SimpleOne 
>> was stolen a couple weeks ago.  Police report filed within 24 hours.  No 
>> luck yet.  Thanks for your time.
>>  
>> http://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/3999794563.html
>> 
>> 
>>  
> 
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[RBW] Funny encounter

[Dave Faller]

While riding my Ram this morning I crossed paths with a couple going the 
opposite direction.  The man, riding a Co-Motion road bike slowed down and 
shouts to me, "Hey, I used to have one of those!"  In response, I yelled 
back, "One of what?", to which he replied, "A Schwinn Varsity!"

I said, "Did you have a green one?"; he said "Yes!"  I said "This isn't a 
Schwinn Varsity", and he said, "Then why does it look like one?".  I said, 
"Because it's green".  All he said back was "Well, that sure is a pretty 
bike!".  I said, "Thanks" and kept rolling.  After they were far enough 
away I laughed pretty hard. 

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[RBW] Re: Funny encounter

[Deacon Patrick]

I love it! Next time I see a blue Ferrari I'll know it's a Dodge Caravan.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Saturday, August 31, 2013 1:36:21 PM UTC-6, Dave Faller wrote:
>
> While riding my Ram this morning I crossed paths with a couple going the 
> opposite direction.  The man, riding a Co-Motion road bike slowed down and 
> shouts to me, "Hey, I used to have one of those!"  In response, I yelled 
> back, "One of what?", to which he replied, "A Schwinn Varsity!"
>
> I said, "Did you have a green one?"; he said "Yes!"  I said "This isn't a 
> Schwinn Varsity", and he said, "Then why does it look like one?".  I said, 
> "Because it's green".  All he said back was "Well, that sure is a pretty 
> bike!".  I said, "Thanks" and kept rolling.  After they were far enough 
> away I laughed pretty hard. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Stolen SimpleOne (Sacramento)

[Matt Beebe]

Wow! really good to hear you got it back.  I agree with Ray though, if 
the pawn shop buys stolen goods, that's their problem, not yours.   

Matt



On Saturday, August 31, 2013 2:54:56 PM UTC-4, David wrote:
>
> Found!  Thirty days later.  Pawn shop in town had it listed on CL.  Very 
> kind RBW Group member alerted me to it.  It's unharmed.  We picked it up 
> today.  Thief sold it to the pawn shop for $60 (which I had to pay), and 
> the pawn shop had it for sale for $600.  Thanks for all your kind thoughts.
>
> On Tuesday, August 13, 2013 1:30:39 PM UTC-7, David wrote:
>>
>> These recovery attempts are a long-shot, but I have to try.  My SimpleOne 
>> was stolen a couple weeks ago.  Police report filed within 24 hours.  No 
>> luck yet.  Thanks for your time.
>>  
>> http://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/3999794563.html
>>
>>
>> 
>>  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: A. Homer Hilsen 55cm, 700c wheel size. FF only

[IanA]

If you are ready to free yourself from using  the 700 wheelset on the 
build, what about looking for a used Atlantis in your size?  There have 
been a 53cm, a 54,5cm and a 56cm on Seattle Craigslist in the last few 
weeks.  One was $1600 complete and another was $1850 complete.  They seem 
to hover around those prices for used.  Interestingly, these frames can 
built-up 650b wheels (if you're hooked on Hetres), but I see no 
disadvantage to 559's.

Ian A
Edmonton, AB Canada (previously Vancouver and missing the coast),


On Thursday, August 29, 2013 1:22:43 PM UTC-6, blakcloud wrote:
>
> I know this bike is rare but there were one or two for sale on this board 
> in the last few years. A. Homer Hilsen 55 cm with 700c wheel size. Looking 
> for frame and fork since I have almost everything else. 
>
> Not interested in the 650b version yet, though it may come to this. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Funny encounter

[Tony DeFilippo]

At least some part of his consciousness recognizes quality... :)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Anomaly ? No, End-User Learning Experience

[Tony DeFilippo]

"Rivendell at Rivendell"

Kind of like Rudbeck of Rudbeck?

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[RBW] Re: So what's the best degreaser to use these days? (was El Duke...)

[Abcyclehank]

2nd Simple Green. 

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[RBW] Re: Funny encounter

[dougP]

Maybe it's a green thing?  If it was green with round tubes it must be a 
Varsity?  

I recently parked my Atlantis (stock color) next to a lugged Bianchi 
MTB.and they looked to be the same color.  As a color name, Celeste has 
a bit more charm than "bluish greenish".  OTH, Bianchi has probably 
reserved the rights to the name as used for a bicycle color.  

dougP

On Saturday, August 31, 2013 12:36:21 PM UTC-7, Dave Faller wrote:
>
> While riding my Ram this morning I crossed paths with a couple going the 
> opposite direction.  The man, riding a Co-Motion road bike slowed down and 
> shouts to me, "Hey, I used to have one of those!"  In response, I yelled 
> back, "One of what?", to which he replied, "A Schwinn Varsity!"
>
> I said, "Did you have a green one?"; he said "Yes!"  I said "This isn't a 
> Schwinn Varsity", and he said, "Then why does it look like one?".  I said, 
> "Because it's green".  All he said back was "Well, that sure is a pretty 
> bike!".  I said, "Thanks" and kept rolling.  After they were far enough 
> away I laughed pretty hard. 
>

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[RBW] Sam creaking today with new set up. Any advice?

[Michael]

*What Happened:*
After about 10 miles riding, something on bars/stem started creaking when I 
put weight on the right ramp, hood, and drops. Left side doesn't creak if I 
put weight on it.
I tightened the hood, and stem bar clamp. Stem bolt is tight. Bars still 
squeak but not as bad.
** 
*Info history:*
I put my new, from RBW, 41 Noodles on it and set it up as close as I could 
to my dependable Giant bike set up.
Bars 1.3cm below saddle height. Feels great. Nitto Deluxe stem 190 rise. 
Only about 3mm's left before stem extension bottoms out by hitting the 
headset lock nut. So I think stem wedge should be above the butt of the 
head tube if there is one. I have used this setup at higher bar levels and 
no creaking. Just today after setting it 1.3cm below saddle. At 1cm below 
saddle, no creaks either.
 
BTW, I *lightly* greased the stem below min insertion point and wedge when 
installing.
 
*Ideas?:*
Maybe needs grease on bar cuff at stem clamp?
More grease on stem and wedge?
Maybe the stem being all the way down in steer tube is creaking because so 
much of it is contacting the inside of steer tube now and the whole rise 
shaft need grease?
 
New 41 Noodle from RBW, so I don't think the bar would have a crack in it 
that creaks. The bars are flexy (both sides) and I can see them flex when I 
push hard on the drops. I did this with bike stopped to try to make it 
creak to see where the noise is coming from.
 
*Any other ideas come to mind?*
 
 

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[RBW] Re: Stolen SimpleOne (Sacramento)

[Cecily Walker]

I love happy endings. Congratulations on being reunited with your bike!

On Saturday, August 31, 2013 11:54:56 AM UTC-7, David wrote:
>
> Found!  Thirty days later.  Pawn shop in town had it listed on CL.  Very 
> kind RBW Group member alerted me to it.  It's unharmed.  We picked it up 
> today.  Thief sold it to the pawn shop for $60 (which I had to pay), and 
> the pawn shop had it for sale for $600.  Thanks for all your kind thoughts.
>
> On Tuesday, August 13, 2013 1:30:39 PM UTC-7, David wrote:
>>
>> These recovery attempts are a long-shot, but I have to try.  My SimpleOne 
>> was stolen a couple weeks ago.  Police report filed within 24 hours.  No 
>> luck yet.  Thanks for your time.
>>  
>> http://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/3999794563.html
>>
>>
>> 
>>  
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: A Riv-ish Mapping GPS...?

[Bill Gibson]

GPS is fun, but it's not as good as it seems to be. Like my computers, when
they work, they save time, when they don't, they waste time. As for
"rivish", I think that would be a friend's hand-drawn map, or one of those
maps with lots of blank space, like an old USFS fire road map, with places
like "the misty mountain" penciled in with a red pencil...I like mine, too,
but leave it behind now when I go further.


On Sat, Aug 31, 2013 at 12:21 PM, Sean Cleary <1upand1d...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm really glad you posted information about this new unit Tony. This past
> year,  I've heavily debated whether or not to get the Garmin Edge 200 to
> replace the 2 low cost Sigma computers that I juggle between four bikes.
> One of the Sigmas that I use is near 10 years and simply wont die to merit
> replacement. The other one his wireless and randomly decides not to compute
> on some days like today, ironically.
>
> What most appeals to me about GPS units is not being limited to just two
> bikes, nor having to recalibrate for every tire switch which i do every
> season. I'll probably pass on the "touring" model until I've gotten lost
> enough times to justify the map feature; the extra $130 over the Edge 200
> will buy a lot of paper maps!
>
> Sean
>
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-- 
Bill Gibson
Tempe, Arizona, USA

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[RBW] Re: Sam creaking today with new set up. Any advice?

[Benedikt]

This happened to me too. When I first set up my Sam I used a Nitto 
Technomic that I cannibalized from another bike. The old bike was a much 
smaller frame and I had a lot of rise above the head tube but with the Sam 
I only need about an inch. After about 100 miles or so that creaking would 
appear. Sometimes I would pull the stem and re-grease it but that was 
always only a temporary solution. Eventually I switched to a Nitto 
Dynamic12 stem which is a lot less stem down in the head tube. Several 
thousand miles later and no creaks so I think it's just that long stem down 
in there. No promises but I don't think there's any safety issues here. I 
have NO CLUE what actually causes the sound though.

- Brian in Seattle.

On Saturday, August 31, 2013 6:51:23 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:
>
> *What Happened:*
> After about 10 miles riding, something on bars/stem started creaking when 
> I put weight on the right ramp, hood, and drops. Left side doesn't creak if 
> I put weight on it.
> I tightened the hood, and stem bar clamp. Stem bolt is tight. Bars still 
> squeak but not as bad.
> ** 
> *Info history:*
> I put my new, from RBW, 41 Noodles on it and set it up as close as I could 
> to my dependable Giant bike set up.
> Bars 1.3cm below saddle height. Feels great. Nitto Deluxe stem 190 rise. 
> Only about 3mm's left before stem extension bottoms out by hitting the 
> headset lock nut. So I think stem wedge should be above the butt of the 
> head tube if there is one. I have used this setup at higher bar levels and 
> no creaking. Just today after setting it 1.3cm below saddle. At 1cm below 
> saddle, no creaks either.
>  
> BTW, I *lightly* greased the stem below min insertion point and 
> wedge when installing.
>  
> *Ideas?:*
> Maybe needs grease on bar cuff at stem clamp?
> More grease on stem and wedge?
> Maybe the stem being all the way down in steer tube is creaking because so 
> much of it is contacting the inside of steer tube now and the whole rise 
> shaft need grease?
>  
> New 41 Noodle from RBW, so I don't think the bar would have a crack in it 
> that creaks. The bars are flexy (both sides) and I can see them flex when I 
> push hard on the drops. I did this with bike stopped to try to make it 
> creak to see where the noise is coming from.
>  
> *Any other ideas come to mind?*
>  
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: My first Riv - a Sam Hill build: Solicitation for critique / advice / congratulations.

[Benedikt]

That database doesn't work for me on Firefox either. Works fine on Google 
Chrome though.

- Brian 


On Saturday, August 31, 2013 10:17:39 AM UTC-7, Dave Johnston wrote:
>
> Riv has a serial number database but when I go the page I get nothing 
> using firefox:
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/Articles.asp?ID=323
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Saddles - A Weighty Question

[Cecily Walker]

Thanks to everyone who suggested dropping the nose on the saddle - it 
worked great, and I'm riding comfortably now! 

On Sunday, August 25, 2013 5:42:11 PM UTC-7, Cecily Walker wrote:
>
> Hi all, 
>
> I have a Brooks B67 S saddle on my Betty Foy, but I'm finding that the 
> saddle isn't as comfortable as it used to be when I was riding completely 
> upright on my Dutch bike. I'm leaning a bit more forward on the Betty Foy, 
> and that's putting some uncomfortable pressure on sensitive parts. 
>
> My concern is that because I'm a heavyweight rider, a saddle like the B17 
> won't stand up to my weight, and I'll damage the seat rails. Have any of 
> you who are in excess of 220# had any issues with the B17 saddle? 
>
> If you have other recommendations, I'm happy to entertain them. 
>
> Thanks!
> Cecily
>

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[RBW] Re: My first Riv - a Sam Hill build: Solicitation for critique / advice / congratulations.

[sameness]

Firefox doesn't like mixed 
content.

(Cliff's Notes: Click the shield icon in the left corner of address bar and 
choose *Disable Protection on This Page* from the dropdown menu.)

Jeff Hagedorn
Warragul, VIC Australia

On Sunday, September 1, 2013 2:31:57 PM UTC+10, Benedikt wrote:
>
> That database doesn't work for me on Firefox either. Works fine on Google 
> Chrome though.
>
> - Brian 
>
>
> On Saturday, August 31, 2013 10:17:39 AM UTC-7, Dave Johnston wrote:
>>
>> Riv has a serial number database but when I go the page I get nothing 
>> using firefox:
>>
>> https://www.rivbike.com/Articles.asp?ID=323
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] So what's the best degreaser to use these days? (was El Duke...)

[Philip Williamson]

I don't think this is a secret - Rivendell will be selling El Duke degreaser in 
the near future. I think they will be the sole outlet.

Philip 
www.biketinker.com

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[RBW] So what's the best degreaser to use these days? (was El Duke...)

[Philip Williamson]

I don't think this is a secret - Rivendell will be selling El Duke degreaser in 
the near future. I think they will be the sole outlet.

Philip 
www.biketinker.com

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[RBW] So what's the best degreaser to use these days? (was El Duke...)

[Philip Williamson]

I don't think this is a secret - Rivendell will be selling El Duke degreaser in 
the near future. I think they will be the sole outlet.

Philip 
www.biketinker.com

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[RBW] So what's the best degreaser to use these days? (was El Duke...)

[Philip Williamson]

I don't think this is a secret - Rivendell will be selling El Duke degreaser in 
the near future. I think they will be the sole outlet.

Philip 
www.biketinker.com

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