RE: [RBW] Bleriot vs. Quickbeam efficiency

2010-05-21 Thread Frederick, Steve
The Bleriot has slightly slacker angles than the QB--can you compare your 
saddle setback?  It's amazing what a difference in perceived effort a cm or so 
of saddle setback can make...check it by dropping a plumb bob (I use a washer 
on a piece of cotton string) from the nose of your saddle past the bottom 
bracket and measuring from the string to the center of your crankarm bolt.

Steve

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com]on Behalf Of Tyler
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 6:13 PM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Subject: [RBW] Bleriot vs. Quickbeam efficiency


I've had my bleriot for 2 years and my quickbeam for 1 year.  I bought
the quickbeam to essentially be a simpler, single-speed version of my
bleriot.  Since then the quickbeam has become my preferred bike.  I
find that I'm (empirically) more efficient on my quickbeam and don't
tire as easily.  After a 50 mile ride on the bleriot I feel tired;
after the same ride on the quickbeam I feel fine.  I don't ride with a
computer on either of my bikes, the only constant being my cycling
partner.  I find when I'm on my bleriot that I'm regularly slower than
her but when I'm on my quickbeam I'm regularly faster.  I'm at the
point where I only ride the bleriot if there are going to be hills
that I can't tackle on my quickbeam.

"Being slow" doesn't bother me as much as the perceived difference in
efficiency.  The bleriot feels like it's dragging some extra weight
regardless of the gear that I'm in while the quickbeam feels like it
wants to keep rolling.  If the bleriot felt similarly effortless I
wouldn't be bothered if it was actually slower than the quickbeam.  I
wish that I had a way to definitively gauge this "dragging" feeling.

The bikes are setup very similarly:

Quickbeam:  60cm frame, 700 x 32 paselas, 32h stock wheels, sugino
crank with 40/32 x 16/19 gearing, noodle bars, brooks saddle, MKS
touring pedals without clips/straps

Bleriot:  61cm frame, 650b x 42 grand bois hetres, 36h lesnik-built
wheels, sugino crank with 48/38/26 x 11-30 gearing, noodle bars,
brooks saddle, MKS grip king pedals

Sometimes I wonder if the hetres are just "slow" but that seems to go
counter to the ride reports of dozens of people who ride with hetres
and claim they're quite fast.  I thought about swapping to cypres
tires (650b x 31) but that's a $120 investment I'm not ready to drop..
especially given that I've read you won't tell much of a difference
between hetres and cypres on paved roads.

The quickbeam is the first single speed bike that I've owned.  Is it
common to find that a single speed bike is noticeably more efficient
for its 1 gear relative to a multi-speed bicycle in a gear of the same
gain ratio ?  Can any other quickbeam owners tell me about the
perceived efficiency difference between their quickbeam and their
geared road bike(s)?

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[RBW] Re: Bleriot vs. Quickbeam efficiency

2010-05-21 Thread Patrick in VT
On May 20, 6:13 pm, Tyler  wrote:

>  The bleriot feels like it's dragging some extra weight
> regardless of the gear that I'm in

is it?  i wouldn't be surprised if it weighed 3-5 pounds more than the
QB.

> Sometimes I wonder if the hetres are just "slow" but that seems to go
> counter to the ride reports of dozens of people who ride with hetres
> and claim they're quite fast.

i don't know if i'd call them "quite" fast.  they roll nicely - no
doubt. and they can't be beat when the pavement ends.  but it's still
a very fat tire, and even at a relatively higher psi, i find them to
be a bit of a drag if i'm trying to ride "fast" on the road, i.e.
accelerate/power-up over rollers/etc.  the cush works against me -
very noticeably - on hard efforts, especially when i stand.  this is
not at all a knock against that tire - it's not a road racing tire.
it's a fantastic all-rounder tire, but it has it's limits.

like jeremy, i'm also curious as to what psi your putting your tires.

>I thought about swapping to cypres tires . .. especially given that I've read 
>you won't tell much of a difference
> between hetres and cypres on paved roads.

I have a different opinion here - the cypres is lighter than the
hetre, and at higher pressures, it behaves more like a "fast" road
tire than the Hetre in my experience.  again, it's more noticeable
when the road goes up or when I want to accelerate/push hard.

that said - yeah, you might notice much of a difference between the
two if you aren't riding somewhat aggressively.

> The quickbeam is the first single speed bike that I've owned.  Is it
> common to find that a single speed bike is noticeably more efficient
> for its 1 gear relative to a multi-speed bicycle in a gear of the same
> gain ratio ?

yes.

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[RBW] Re: Medium Saddle Sack and Top Rack

2010-05-21 Thread MKahrl


I also use the SaddleSack Medium with the R-14 Top Rack and Saddlebag
Grip.  Even when I forget to slide the leather over the rack loop it
is rock steady sitting on the rack.

Here is what happens when Grant contracts with a high-end women's
purse manufacturer to make bike bags:

I am riding on TOSRV with about 3,000 other people and through the
course of the day I get lots of compliments on my bike, somewhat to
the irritation of my ride mates on their grey bikes.  Along comes
paceline of women passing me and they slow so that the leader can say
"Pretty bike.  I love how you accessorized it!"Now my riding group
will not let that remark die.

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[RBW] Re: Pari - motos reach the Heart of Dixie

2010-05-21 Thread JL
I'm interested to see these pictures and hear about your ride. IIRC We
have near identical Road standards (mind is a '96) and I sometimes
consider a 650b conversion for rando purposes.

On May 20, 6:28 pm, Bruce  wrote:
> Turns out my pair arrived yesterday, but alert neighbors snatched the box 
> left on my doorstep while I was out of town for a 1 day business trip up to 
> MN. They brought it by tonight. Too late to ride, but I put them on a '95 
> Rivendell Road which was built up as a 650B last year. They replace Maxy 
> Fastys, which still having life left, are back on the shelf.
>
> They look fantastic and fit in the bike easily. Snug to pull them through the 
> Tektro 556 brakes while fully inflated, but I did with no real issues. They 
> just make the bike look like a roadster, ready to roll. They're light and 
> mounted on Velocity Synergy rims with bare hands. I made sure the tubes used 
> were up to the size challenge. 55 - 75 is the listed air pressure range and 
> I'll start with 60 and see how they feel over the variety of surfaces I 
> normally ride over. Pictures this weekend.
>
> Bruce
>
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[RBW] Re: Pari - motos reach the Heart of Dixie

2010-05-21 Thread Patrick in VT
On May 21, 10:16 am, JL  wrote:
> I'm interested to see these pictures and hear about your ride. IIRC We
> have near identical Road standards (mind is a '96) and I sometimes
> consider a 650b conversion for rando purposes.

I have some pics here - both of a riv road and pari-motos (though not
on the same bike!).

http://www.flickr.com/photos/22267...@n02/

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[RBW] toursacks

2010-05-21 Thread Seth Vidal
Looking good!

http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/toursacks-rear-panniers/20-215

and I love to see that the brand-v ones will be in at the same time.

that rocks.

-sv

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[RBW] Mixing Campy 10 and Shimano 9 - Zinn article?

2010-05-21 Thread rinjin
I have Campy 10 components (brifters, derailleurs, cranks) on my Ram
but the rear hub is Shimano. Have used a Wheels Manuf. cassette and
have looked at other options (Jtek shiftmate, etc). I think someone
recently posted a link to a Zinn article about using Shimano 9-sp
cassettes with good results. Searched the archives and can't find the
link...anyone remember the post or have experience with this mix of
parts?

And, yes, I could just build a Campy rear wheel. But that would be so
easy!

Thanks,

Brian
Utah

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[RBW] Re: Mixing Campy 10 and Shimano 9 - Zinn article?

2010-05-21 Thread bfd


On May 21, 9:21 am, rinjin  wrote:
> I have Campy 10 components (brifters, derailleurs, cranks) on my Ram
> but the rear hub is Shimano. Have used a Wheels Manuf. cassette and
> have looked at other options (Jtek shiftmate, etc). I think someone
> recently posted a link to a Zinn article about using Shimano 9-sp
> cassettes with good results. Searched the archives and can't find the
> link...anyone remember the post or have experience with this mix of
> parts?
>
Don't know about Zinn, but one of the best place to start is to look
at this UK site that shows the various ways to mix and match Campy and
Shimano, see here:

http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=3946#Shimergo

I use Campy 9 drivetrain (ergos, rear der) with Shimano 9 cassette and
sram chain on 2 bikes and it works fine. Don't have to worry about ft
der as Campy ergo shifter is ratcheting and will work with basically
any ft der (except maybe the newer escape/qr stuff).

I would do the cheapest first - use your Campy drivetrain with Shimano
9 or 10 cogs. Campy 10 and Shimano 10 are close and many have stated
it works without mod. If that doesn't work, try the "hubbub" method of
attaching the rear der cable on the opposite end of the attachment
bolt. If that fails, try switching out spacers. If not, then try a
jtek.


> And, yes, I could just build a Campy rear wheel. But that would be so
> easy!
>
With IRD offering wide range cassette building up a wheel using Campy
rear hub is a great option! Good Luck!

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[RBW] Re: Bleriot vs. Quickbeam efficiency

2010-05-21 Thread cm
I've experienced the same thing-- though my single speed bike is not a
Quickbeam. I have always explained it to myself like this: My one gear
is much easier to pedal than many of the gears of the multi-geared.
This means that on downhill or flat sections I am not working as hard
as I would be on my geared bike and am probably spinning more
efficiently (higher cadence). When I get to the hills I have much more
energy than I would on the geared bike and am able to go up it much
faster-- then it is back to the downhill. and Repeat. It is the speed
on the hills that makes the bike feel faster. I find that I am as
fast/ feel faster on the single speed up to about 50 miles or so. The
geared bike also feels faster on big climbs-- there is a classic 20+
mile climb here that is neither fast nor fun on the single.  The
numbers on the bikes' computers verify this.

As an experiment, try putting the Bleriot in a comparable gear as the
single and don't shift. Still notice the difference?

Lastly, any chance there is a small engine in the seat tube of the
Quickbeam? Might be worth checking.

Cheers!
cm


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[RBW] Re: Pari - motos reach the Heart of Dixie

2010-05-21 Thread William
I keep eagerly checking the mailbox for mine.

They are slated for the 650B conversion of my Davidson Signature.  I
very eager to try them out!

On May 21, 7:47 am, Patrick in VT  wrote:
> On May 21, 10:16 am, JL  wrote:
>
> > I'm interested to see these pictures and hear about your ride. IIRC We
> > have near identical Road standards (mind is a '96) and I sometimes
> > consider a 650b conversion for rando purposes.
>
> I have some pics here - both of a riv road and pari-motos (though not
> on the same bike!).
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/22267...@n02/
>
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[RBW] Steel frames, custom racks, hammered fenders, schwalbe big apples

2010-05-21 Thread Sean Whelan
http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=126885724



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[RBW] Re: New-to-me Quickbeam frame/fork pics

2010-05-21 Thread Lee
Thanks, Jeremy. I saw an old thread involving Sheldon in which he
said:

"White Industries singlespeed hubs are intended for about a 47.5 mm
chainline with a singlespeed freewheel or typical fixed sprocket.

The double sprocket pretty much splits the difference, giving
chainlines
of about 45 & 50."

I'm wondering if this is so in regards to the Riv Suzue free/free hub.
The thread in general was focused on the Quickbeam, but Sheldon hadn't
received the DOS yet to actually measure it.

Best,
Lee



On May 20, 10:35 pm, Jeremy Till  wrote:
> Don't know anything about the DOS/Suzue combo specifically, but on a
> Phil hub my surly Dingle Cog gave me ~38mm and ~43mm chainlines; i'd
> image the suzue hub would be similar since they both aim for a 42mm
> chainline with a single cog.  A Sugino XD double on a VO 103mm bottom
> bracket lines up well, with the driveside crank is snugged up pretty
> tight to the bottom bracket cup (luckily the way it's machined
> prevents any rubbing).
>
> On May 20, 5:15 pm, Lee  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Thanks all, for the great information. That's a lot of food for
> > thought. I do like the idea of the DOS freewheel. Does anyone know the
> > chainline of the DOS in combination with the Riv Suzue free/free hub?
>
> > Best,
> > Lee
>
> > On May 20, 3:00 pm, Dave Craig  wrote:
>
> > > Congratulations. That's a nice color.
>
> > > I ride the QB more than my other bikes. It just makes me smile.
>
> > > I kept the 32t chainring and changed out the 40t in front for a 36t. I
> > > run a White 16/19 freewheel. I usually ride everywhere/all the time in
> > > 36/16 (about the same as the stock 40/18). I use the 32/19 only when
> > > I'm carrying a load or riding alone out of town into the mountains.
> > > The advantage of my set-up is that it's close to the original range
> > > (which is pretty good for mixed riding) and yet it requires very
> > > little axle movement with the gear switch. This allows me to have a
> > > really nice fender line and also lets me remove the rear wheel without
> > > touching the fender Also, chainline is better compared to the stock
> > > set-up.
>
> > > As of yesterday, I've got the Nitto Big rack in the back and Nitto
> > > small in the front (with a basket). I installed the Nitto big rack in
> > > the rear to give me a little more carrying capacity. This required
> > > sawing off the little tabs on the rack that would have made getting
> > > the wheel off more complicated.
>
> > > Dave
>
> > > On May 20, 10:27 am, Lee  wrote:
>
> > > > Hi everyone. I just joined this group, though I've been lurking for a
> > > > while. Yesterday, through a fast and fortunate series of events, I
> > > > picked up a used Quickbeam frame/fork/extras. Here's a small Flickr
> > > > set:
>
> > > >http://tinyurl.com/2ctq33t
>
> > > > I'm currently mulling over drivetrain ideas and would be happy to hear
> > > > suggestions or experiences. Currently, I'm thinking I'll do fixed/free
> > > > for a while to get used to the bike. Then, make changes as needed.
>
> > > > Best,
> > > > Lee
> > > > SF, CA
>
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Re: [RBW] Bleriot vs. Quickbeam efficiency

2010-05-21 Thread Ray Shine
Tyler  - I also own a QB and a Bleriot.  I don't notice a big difference in the 
effort expanded, but that's more likely due to how I ride each bike.  I use the 
Bleriot primarily for commuting with a modest load on the rear rack. I also fit 
it with Albatross bars.  I use the QB for "fun" rides.  I must concur with 
several of the other posters.  The QB is a lot of fun to ride, and it is the 
one bike I ride most.  

I am not technically proficient enough to weigh in on the tire, psi, or geo, 
although I tend to agree with what most have written.  I actually enjoy 
climbing, and I use the QB a lot to do that here in NorCal.  Aside from the 
obvious advantage more lower gears might provide, the QB is geared low enough 
that I can huff and puff my way up nearly everything I assault.  I'm not too 
proud to get off and walk, either.  Because I am geared so low on the QB, I am 
always reluctant to ride it when joining other riders who have derailers.  On 
flats and descents, they leave me in the dust.  I most enjoy the QB when riding 
solo, which is most of the time.

I have two crank sets for the QB, as well as two wheel sets. For 
hilly/mountainous riding with some trail work, I use a 28/36 chain wheel combo 
with 17 freewheel on the drive side, and a 22 free on the flip side for the 
steepest climbs.  For normal road riding here in the Bay area, still lots of 
climbing, I use the stock chain wheels and a White 16/18 free and a 20 free on 
the flip.  I almost never use anything but the 32/40 x 18 combo. 

A couple of the others remarked about just picking a moderate gear on the 
Bleriot and ride it without pulling a shift. I recommend that.  That is how I 
discovered the fun of single-speed to begin with.  I was on a long ride on my 
Romulus, but very pre-occupied.  A goodly distance into the ride it occurred to 
me that I had not been changing gears at all.  I finished that ride without 
shifting, then took a dozen more that way before committing to buying the QB. I 
have never regretted it.





From: Tyler 
To: RBW Owners Bunch 
Sent: Thu, May 20, 2010 3:13:26 PM
Subject: [RBW] Bleriot vs. Quickbeam efficiency

I've had my bleriot for 2 years and my quickbeam for 1 year.  I bought
the quickbeam to essentially be a simpler, single-speed version of my
bleriot.  Since then the quickbeam has become my preferred bike.  I
find that I'm (empirically) more efficient on my quickbeam and don't
tire as easily.  After a 50 mile ride on the bleriot I feel tired;
after the same ride on the quickbeam I feel fine.  I don't ride with a
computer on either of my bikes, the only constant being my cycling
partner.  I find when I'm on my bleriot that I'm regularly slower than
her but when I'm on my quickbeam I'm regularly faster.  I'm at the
point where I only ride the bleriot if there are going to be hills
that I can't tackle on my quickbeam.

"Being slow" doesn't bother me as much as the perceived difference in
efficiency.  The bleriot feels like it's dragging some extra weight
regardless of the gear that I'm in while the quickbeam feels like it
wants to keep rolling.  If the bleriot felt similarly effortless I
wouldn't be bothered if it was actually slower than the quickbeam.  I
wish that I had a way to definitively gauge this "dragging" feeling.

The bikes are setup very similarly:

Quickbeam:  60cm frame, 700 x 32 paselas, 32h stock wheels, sugino
crank with 40/32 x 16/19 gearing, noodle bars, brooks saddle, MKS
touring pedals without clips/straps

Bleriot:  61cm frame, 650b x 42 grand bois hetres, 36h lesnik-built
wheels, sugino crank with 48/38/26 x 11-30 gearing, noodle bars,
brooks saddle, MKS grip king pedals

Sometimes I wonder if the hetres are just "slow" but that seems to go
counter to the ride reports of dozens of people who ride with hetres
and claim they're quite fast.  I thought about swapping to cypres
tires (650b x 31) but that's a $120 investment I'm not ready to drop..
especially given that I've read you won't tell much of a difference
between hetres and cypres on paved roads.

The quickbeam is the first single speed bike that I've owned.  Is it
common to find that a single speed bike is noticeably more efficient
for its 1 gear relative to a multi-speed bicycle in a gear of the same
gain ratio ?  Can any other quickbeam owners tell me about the
perceived efficiency difference between their quickbeam and their
geared road bike(s)?

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[RBW] Re: Mixing Campy 10 and Shimano 9 - Zinn article?

2010-05-21 Thread Michael_S
The best match according to that site for Campy 10 speed shifters is
with a Shimano splined 8 speed cassette. I have that on my tandem and
it works great.
The Zinn article I read talked about interchangability of the 10 speed
systems. I believe he used a SRAM 10 speed cassette with Campy
shifters.
Of course now the 10 speed systems are passe'.

~Mike~

On May 21, 9:36 am, bfd  wrote:
> On May 21, 9:21 am, rinjin  wrote:> I have Campy 10 
> components (brifters, derailleurs, cranks) on my Ram
> > but the rear hub is Shimano. Have used a Wheels Manuf. cassette and
> > have looked at other options (Jtek shiftmate, etc). I think someone
> > recently posted a link to a Zinn article about using Shimano 9-sp
> > cassettes with good results. Searched the archives and can't find the
> > link...anyone remember the post or have experience with this mix of
> > parts?
>
> Don't know about Zinn, but one of the best place to start is to look
> at this UK site that shows the various ways to mix and match Campy and
> Shimano, see here:
>
> http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=3946#Shimergo
>
> I use Campy 9 drivetrain (ergos, rear der) with Shimano 9 cassette and
> sram chain on 2 bikes and it works fine. Don't have to worry about ft
> der as Campy ergo shifter is ratcheting and will work with basically
> any ft der (except maybe the newer escape/qr stuff).
>
> I would do the cheapest first - use your Campy drivetrain with Shimano
> 9 or 10 cogs. Campy 10 and Shimano 10 are close and many have stated
> it works without mod. If that doesn't work, try the "hubbub" method of
> attaching the rear der cable on the opposite end of the attachment
> bolt. If that fails, try switching out spacers. If not, then try a
> jtek.
>
> > And, yes, I could just build a Campy rear wheel. But that would be so
> > easy!
>
> With IRD offering wide range cassette building up a wheel using Campy
> rear hub is a great option! Good Luck!
>
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[RBW] Re: New-to-me Quickbeam frame/fork pics

2010-05-21 Thread Jeremy Till
The 47.5mm hub chainline is specific to White Industries hubs (i've
got one of those too!).  Most normal "track" hubs (including the
Suzue, the double-free QB one was based off of their track hub) are
nominally a 42mm chainline. But, if you just take sheldon's numbers
for the DOS on a white hub and minus 5.5 mm (47.5-42), you should get
the chainlines of a DOS on a 42mm hub- so 39.5mm and 44.5mm.
Approximately.

Welcome to the single-speed club--calculating chainline is one of our
initiation rites.

This article is about fixed gear set-up but can be equally applied to
SS rigs, it has some good stuff including a how to measure chainline
on the bike:

http://63xc.com/mattc/setup2.htm

On May 21, 11:04 am, Lee  wrote:
> Thanks, Jeremy. I saw an old thread involving Sheldon in which he
> said:
>
> "White Industries singlespeed hubs are intended for about a 47.5 mm
> chainline with a singlespeed freewheel or typical fixed sprocket.
>
> The double sprocket pretty much splits the difference, giving
> chainlines
> of about 45 & 50."
>
> I'm wondering if this is so in regards to the Riv Suzue free/free hub.
> The thread in general was focused on the Quickbeam, but Sheldon hadn't
> received the DOS yet to actually measure it.
>
> Best,
> Lee
>
> On May 20, 10:35 pm, Jeremy Till  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Don't know anything about the DOS/Suzue combo specifically, but on a
> > Phil hub my surly Dingle Cog gave me ~38mm and ~43mm chainlines; i'd
> > image the suzue hub would be similar since they both aim for a 42mm
> > chainline with a single cog.  A Sugino XD double on a VO 103mm bottom
> > bracket lines up well, with the driveside crank is snugged up pretty
> > tight to the bottom bracket cup (luckily the way it's machined
> > prevents any rubbing).
>
> > On May 20, 5:15 pm, Lee  wrote:
>
> > > Thanks all, for the great information. That's a lot of food for
> > > thought. I do like the idea of the DOS freewheel. Does anyone know the
> > > chainline of the DOS in combination with the Riv Suzue free/free hub?
>
> > > Best,
> > > Lee
>
> > > On May 20, 3:00 pm, Dave Craig  wrote:
>
> > > > Congratulations. That's a nice color.
>
> > > > I ride the QB more than my other bikes. It just makes me smile.
>
> > > > I kept the 32t chainring and changed out the 40t in front for a 36t. I
> > > > run a White 16/19 freewheel. I usually ride everywhere/all the time in
> > > > 36/16 (about the same as the stock 40/18). I use the 32/19 only when
> > > > I'm carrying a load or riding alone out of town into the mountains.
> > > > The advantage of my set-up is that it's close to the original range
> > > > (which is pretty good for mixed riding) and yet it requires very
> > > > little axle movement with the gear switch. This allows me to have a
> > > > really nice fender line and also lets me remove the rear wheel without
> > > > touching the fender Also, chainline is better compared to the stock
> > > > set-up.
>
> > > > As of yesterday, I've got the Nitto Big rack in the back and Nitto
> > > > small in the front (with a basket). I installed the Nitto big rack in
> > > > the rear to give me a little more carrying capacity. This required
> > > > sawing off the little tabs on the rack that would have made getting
> > > > the wheel off more complicated.
>
> > > > Dave
>
> > > > On May 20, 10:27 am, Lee  wrote:
>
> > > > > Hi everyone. I just joined this group, though I've been lurking for a
> > > > > while. Yesterday, through a fast and fortunate series of events, I
> > > > > picked up a used Quickbeam frame/fork/extras. Here's a small Flickr
> > > > > set:
>
> > > > >http://tinyurl.com/2ctq33t
>
> > > > > I'm currently mulling over drivetrain ideas and would be happy to hear
> > > > > suggestions or experiences. Currently, I'm thinking I'll do fixed/free
> > > > > for a while to get used to the bike. Then, make changes as needed.
>
> > > > > Best,
> > > > > Lee
> > > > > SF, CA
>
> > > > > --
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[RBW] WTT: 175mm XD2 crank arms for 172.5mm arms

2010-05-21 Thread stevew
Hi all,

I have a pair of 175mm Sugino XD2 crank arms that I am looking to
trade for a pair of 172.5mm XD2 arms.  I would like to trade just the
arms, and not the rings.  They are in good but used condition, and
have the little crown logo.

Thanks,
Steve

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[RBW] Re: Mixing Campy 10 and Shimano 9 - Zinn article?

2010-05-21 Thread Aaron Thomas
I use the Jtek Shiftmate to combine Campy 10sp shifters with ShimaNo
9sp cassette. It works flawlessly and is cheap. You won't be
disappointed.

You could also use Campy 10sp with ShimaNo 10sp cassette, provided you
get the correct Jtek model.

On May 21, 11:27 am, Michael_S  wrote:
> The best match according to that site for Campy 10 speed shifters is
> with a Shimano splined 8 speed cassette. I have that on my tandem and
> it works great.
> The Zinn article I read talked about interchangability of the 10 speed
> systems. I believe he used a SRAM 10 speed cassette with Campy
> shifters.
> Of course now the 10 speed systems are passe'.
>
> ~Mike~
>
> On May 21, 9:36 am, bfd  wrote:
>
>
>
> > On May 21, 9:21 am, rinjin  wrote:> I have Campy 10 
> > components (brifters, derailleurs, cranks) on my Ram
> > > but the rear hub is Shimano. Have used a Wheels Manuf. cassette and
> > > have looked at other options (Jtek shiftmate, etc). I think someone
> > > recently posted a link to a Zinn article about using Shimano 9-sp
> > > cassettes with good results. Searched the archives and can't find the
> > > link...anyone remember the post or have experience with this mix of
> > > parts?
>
> > Don't know about Zinn, but one of the best place to start is to look
> > at this UK site that shows the various ways to mix and match Campy and
> > Shimano, see here:
>
> >http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=3946#Shimergo
>
> > I use Campy 9 drivetrain (ergos, rear der) with Shimano 9 cassette and
> > sram chain on 2 bikes and it works fine. Don't have to worry about ft
> > der as Campy ergo shifter is ratcheting and will work with basically
> > any ft der (except maybe the newer escape/qr stuff).
>
> > I would do the cheapest first - use your Campy drivetrain with Shimano
> > 9 or 10 cogs. Campy 10 and Shimano 10 are close and many have stated
> > it works without mod. If that doesn't work, try the "hubbub" method of
> > attaching the rear der cable on the opposite end of the attachment
> > bolt. If that fails, try switching out spacers. If not, then try a
> > jtek.
>
> > > And, yes, I could just build a Campy rear wheel. But that would be so
> > > easy!
>
> > With IRD offering wide range cassette building up a wheel using Campy
> > rear hub is a great option! Good Luck!
>
> > --
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> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>
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Re: [RBW] Steel frames, custom racks, hammered fenders, schwalbe big apples

2010-05-21 Thread carnerda...@bellsouth.net

Are those Jack Browns on the Sylvan "pencil" bike in picture #7?

Sean Whelan wrote:

http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=126885724



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[RBW] Re: New-to-me Quickbeam frame/fork pics

2010-05-21 Thread Lee
Jeremy, thanks so much. That's really helpful. And you're right, you
should have seen me last night, a couple of empty beer bottles, quad-
ruled paper, a million (one million!) tabs opened up in my browser
going over crank, hub, cog combinations, etc. It all seems so simple
on my Schwinn single-speeds, what with the one-piece crank and all.

Your DOS calculation seems right on, as 42mm would put the chainline
right between the cogs. I plan on running fixed on the other side, but
I bet that the fixed cog will work out to 42mm obviously. Now I just
have to find a suitable crank and chainwheel setup, as I don't have
the original QB crankset, and I'd rather run a single chainring (for
now), with lower Q-factor if possible/affordable.

Thanks again :)
Lee

On May 21, 11:43 am, Jeremy Till  wrote:
> The 47.5mm hub chainline is specific to White Industries hubs (i've
> got one of those too!).  Most normal "track" hubs (including the
> Suzue, the double-free QB one was based off of their track hub) are
> nominally a 42mm chainline. But, if you just take sheldon's numbers
> for the DOS on a white hub and minus 5.5 mm (47.5-42), you should get
> the chainlines of a DOS on a 42mm hub- so 39.5mm and 44.5mm.
> Approximately.
>
> Welcome to the single-speed club--calculating chainline is one of our
> initiation rites.
>
> This article is about fixed gear set-up but can be equally applied to
> SS rigs, it has some good stuff including a how to measure chainline
> on the bike:
>
> http://63xc.com/mattc/setup2.htm
>
> On May 21, 11:04 am, Lee  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Thanks, Jeremy. I saw an old thread involving Sheldon in which he
> > said:
>
> > "White Industries singlespeed hubs are intended for about a 47.5 mm
> > chainline with a singlespeed freewheel or typical fixed sprocket.
>
> > The double sprocket pretty much splits the difference, giving
> > chainlines
> > of about 45 & 50."
>
> > I'm wondering if this is so in regards to the Riv Suzue free/free hub.
> > The thread in general was focused on the Quickbeam, but Sheldon hadn't
> > received the DOS yet to actually measure it.
>
> > Best,
> > Lee
>
> > On May 20, 10:35 pm, Jeremy Till  wrote:
>
> > > Don't know anything about the DOS/Suzue combo specifically, but on a
> > > Phil hub my surly Dingle Cog gave me ~38mm and ~43mm chainlines; i'd
> > > image the suzue hub would be similar since they both aim for a 42mm
> > > chainline with a single cog.  A Sugino XD double on a VO 103mm bottom
> > > bracket lines up well, with the driveside crank is snugged up pretty
> > > tight to the bottom bracket cup (luckily the way it's machined
> > > prevents any rubbing).
>
> > > On May 20, 5:15 pm, Lee  wrote:
>
> > > > Thanks all, for the great information. That's a lot of food for
> > > > thought. I do like the idea of the DOS freewheel. Does anyone know the
> > > > chainline of the DOS in combination with the Riv Suzue free/free hub?
>
> > > > Best,
> > > > Lee
>
> > > > On May 20, 3:00 pm, Dave Craig  wrote:
>
> > > > > Congratulations. That's a nice color.
>
> > > > > I ride the QB more than my other bikes. It just makes me smile.
>
> > > > > I kept the 32t chainring and changed out the 40t in front for a 36t. I
> > > > > run a White 16/19 freewheel. I usually ride everywhere/all the time in
> > > > > 36/16 (about the same as the stock 40/18). I use the 32/19 only when
> > > > > I'm carrying a load or riding alone out of town into the mountains.
> > > > > The advantage of my set-up is that it's close to the original range
> > > > > (which is pretty good for mixed riding) and yet it requires very
> > > > > little axle movement with the gear switch. This allows me to have a
> > > > > really nice fender line and also lets me remove the rear wheel without
> > > > > touching the fender Also, chainline is better compared to the stock
> > > > > set-up.
>
> > > > > As of yesterday, I've got the Nitto Big rack in the back and Nitto
> > > > > small in the front (with a basket). I installed the Nitto big rack in
> > > > > the rear to give me a little more carrying capacity. This required
> > > > > sawing off the little tabs on the rack that would have made getting
> > > > > the wheel off more complicated.
>
> > > > > Dave
>
> > > > > On May 20, 10:27 am, Lee  wrote:
>
> > > > > > Hi everyone. I just joined this group, though I've been lurking for 
> > > > > > a
> > > > > > while. Yesterday, through a fast and fortunate series of events, I
> > > > > > picked up a used Quickbeam frame/fork/extras. Here's a small Flickr
> > > > > > set:
>
> > > > > >http://tinyurl.com/2ctq33t
>
> > > > > > I'm currently mulling over drivetrain ideas and would be happy to 
> > > > > > hear
> > > > > > suggestions or experiences. Currently, I'm thinking I'll do 
> > > > > > fixed/free
> > > > > > for a while to get used to the bike. Then, make changes as needed.
>
> > > > > > Best,
> > > > > > Lee
> > > > > > SF, CA
>
> > > > > > --
> > > > > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>

RE: [RBW] Steel frames, custom racks, hammered fenders, schwalbe big apples

2010-05-21 Thread Joe Bartoe

They must be. You can see the checkerboard pattern in the pics and they're too 
wide to be roly-polys or ruffy-tuffys.

Joe

Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 14:04:57 -0500
From: carnerda...@bellsouth.net
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Steel frames, custom racks, hammered fenders, schwalbe big   
apples






  
  


Are those Jack Browns on the Sylvan "pencil" bike in picture #7?



Sean Whelan wrote:

  

  
http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=126885724








  

  
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[RBW] Re: Bleriot vs. Quickbeam efficiency

2010-05-21 Thread Tyler
Thanks for the input everyone!

* I've checked the whole bike for "drag" except the wheel bearings,
I'll give those a look.

* I need to confirm that my body position is the same between bikes.
I tried to set them up as close as I could but it's possible one or
both configurations have drifted from the original setup after dozens
of tweaks over the last year.  I particularly need to look at saddle
setback given that the bikes have different seat tube angles.

* The bleriot probably weighs a few pounds more than the quickbeam,
though given my own weight I don't think that would make much of a
difference.  Even if the weight difference was 5 lbs, that would still
only be about a 2% difference in total weight.  The efficiency
difference between the 2 bikes feels well over 2% to me.

* I ride with the hetres as high as 60/65 psi, usually closer to
50/55.  Yesterday I dropped them to 45/52 (based on my guesstimate of
15% tire drop from the chart in VBQ) and noticed a pretty substantial
difference (mostly improvement).  Today I did some hill climbing on
the way to work.  I found myself exhausted like I was fighting against
both the bike and gravity.  The tires feel squishy to me when I'm
standing which might be why climbing while standing and accelerating
from a stop feel "inefficient."

Aside from the hill climbing this morning, I've been riding the
bleriot in the same gear that I use on the quickbeam for around town
riding.  The bleriot still feels more difficult in this gear but I
need more time in the saddle to really confirm that.

* The quickbeam uses 32mm paselas with tourguard which I don't
consider to be racing tires, so I don't think it's a completely unfair
comparison to the hetres.  The paselas feel like the perfect combo of
comfort and speed for me, I don't get that squishy feeling when I
stand (which I frequently find myself doing on the quickbeam) but the
tires are plenty comfortable even for long distance riding.  If
panaracer made 650b x 32 paselas I'd buy a pair in an instant.  Maybe
I just need to take the plunge on a pair of cypres since they're
probably the closest I'll find to paselas for 650b.

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[RBW] Re: Steel frames, custom racks, hammered fenders, schwalbe big apples

2010-05-21 Thread Aaron Thomas
If you click to view in full screen mode, you can see the blue label
on the rear tire. Unless the Maxy Fasty or Nifty Swifty have such a
blue label, I'd say they've got to be Jack Browns.

On May 21, 12:51 pm, Joe Bartoe  wrote:
> They must be. You can see the checkerboard pattern in the pics and they're 
> too wide to be roly-polys or ruffy-tuffys.
>
> Joe
>
> Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 14:04:57 -0500
> From: carnerda...@bellsouth.net
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [RBW] Steel frames, custom racks, hammered fenders, schwalbe big 
>           apples
>
> Are those Jack Browns on the Sylvan "pencil" bike in picture #7?
>
> Sean Whelan wrote:
>
>        http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=126885724
>
> --
>
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[RBW] Re: Steel frames, custom racks, hammered fenders, schwalbe big apples

2010-05-21 Thread William
Those Dromarti shoes are tempting.

On May 21, 10:25 am, Sean Whelan  wrote:
> http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=126885724
>
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RE: [RBW] Re: Bleriot vs. Quickbeam efficiency

2010-05-21 Thread Frederick, Steve
Tyler wished:
>If panaracer made 650b x 32 paselas I'd buy a pair in an instant.  Maybe
>I just need to take the plunge on a pair of cypres since they're
>probably the closest I'll find to paselas for 650b.

Don't pull the trigger on those cypres's just yet, Tyler--there is a 650bX34mm 
Pasela-based tire coming from Soma very soon...look here for a preview:


http://reneherse.blogspot.com/2010/01/new-650b-tire-from-soma-first.html

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<>

Re: [RBW] Mixing Campy 10 and Shimano 9 - Zinn article?

2010-05-21 Thread James Valiensi
I have tried several ways to mix Campy and Shimano.
This is what I've learned:
1. Third party cassettes suck, stick with the S & C brands.
2. If you keep the same number of gears, the Shift-mate gizmo work very well.
3. Sram chains seem to work very well with both Shimano & Campy.
4. You can rebuild Campy Ergopower levers to 9 or 10 speed (pre 11sp stuff).

Cheers!


On May 21, 2010, at 9:21 AM, rinjin wrote:

> I have Campy 10 components (brifters, derailleurs, cranks) on my Ram
> but the rear hub is Shimano. Have used a Wheels Manuf. cassette and
> have looked at other options (Jtek shiftmate, etc). I think someone
> recently posted a link to a Zinn article about using Shimano 9-sp
> cassettes with good results. Searched the archives and can't find the
> link...anyone remember the post or have experience with this mix of
> parts?
> 
> And, yes, I could just build a Campy rear wheel. But that would be so
> easy!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brian
> Utah
> 
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James Valiensi, PE
Northridge, CA
H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796



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[RBW] Re: Mixing Campy 10 and Shimano 9 - Zinn article?

2010-05-21 Thread Aaron Thomas
I'm not sure what you mean by keeping the same number of gears. Are
you implying that mixing 10sp shifters with a 9sp cassette is less
than ideal? If so, I can assure you that I have that setup on two
bikes and it works flawlessly.

Perhaps other people's experience differs depending on the precise
combination of rear derailleurs and shifters.

For what it's worth, on both bikes I have Campy Veloce 10sp shifters,
Ultegra long cage rear derailleur, and an Ultegra 12-27 9sp cassette.
Zero problems with this setup. The Jtek works great in my experience.

On May 21, 5:23 pm, James Valiensi  wrote:
> I have tried several ways to mix Campy and Shimano.
> This is what I've learned:
> 1. Third party cassettes suck, stick with the S & C brands.
> 2. If you keep the same number of gears, the Shift-mate gizmo work very well.
> 3. Sram chains seem to work very well with both Shimano & Campy.
> 4. You can rebuild Campy Ergopower levers to 9 or 10 speed (pre 11sp stuff).
>
> Cheers!
>
> On May 21, 2010, at 9:21 AM, rinjin wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > I have Campy 10 components (brifters, derailleurs, cranks) on my Ram
> > but the rear hub is Shimano. Have used a Wheels Manuf. cassette and
> > have looked at other options (Jtek shiftmate, etc). I think someone
> > recently posted a link to a Zinn article about using Shimano 9-sp
> > cassettes with good results. Searched the archives and can't find the
> > link...anyone remember the post or have experience with this mix of
> > parts?
>
> > And, yes, I could just build a Campy rear wheel. But that would be so
> > easy!
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > Brian
> > Utah
>
> > --
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> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>
> James Valiensi, PE
> Northridge, CA
> H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796
>
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RE: [RBW] Re: Bleriot vs. Quickbeam efficiency

2010-05-21 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Fri, 2010-05-21 at 20:13 -0400, Frederick, Steve wrote:
> Tyler wished:
> >If panaracer made 650b x 32 paselas I'd buy a pair in an instant.  Maybe
> >I just need to take the plunge on a pair of cypres since they're
> >probably the closest I'll find to paselas for 650b.
> 
> Don't pull the trigger on those cypres's just yet, Tyler--there is a 
> 650bX34mm Pasela-based tire coming from Soma very soon...look here for a 
> preview:
> 
> 
> http://reneherse.blogspot.com/2010/01/new-650b-tire-from-soma-first.html


I'd say it would be pretty easy to decide between them.  They're not at
all the same sort of tire.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Mixing Campy 10 and Shimano 9 - Zinn article?

2010-05-21 Thread James Valiensi
Aaron,
I used the Jtek for 10speed mix ups, with great success. I didn't know they 
made one to mix up speeds as well; no doubt it works as well.
There was one other method I tried: using Campy 10 speed shifters with Shimano 
9 speed cassettes and deraileurs, where all you do is route the rear cable 
differently. This worked OK.
Cheers!
On May 21, 2010, at 5:39 PM, Aaron Thomas wrote:

> I'm not sure what you mean by keeping the same number of gears. Are
> you implying that mixing 10sp shifters with a 9sp cassette is less
> than ideal? If so, I can assure you that I have that setup on two
> bikes and it works flawlessly.
> 
> Perhaps other people's experience differs depending on the precise
> combination of rear derailleurs and shifters.
> 
> For what it's worth, on both bikes I have Campy Veloce 10sp shifters,
> Ultegra long cage rear derailleur, and an Ultegra 12-27 9sp cassette.
> Zero problems with this setup. The Jtek works great in my experience.
> 
> On May 21, 5:23 pm, James Valiensi  wrote:
>> I have tried several ways to mix Campy and Shimano.
>> This is what I've learned:
>> 1. Third party cassettes suck, stick with the S & C brands.
>> 2. If you keep the same number of gears, the Shift-mate gizmo work very well.
>> 3. Sram chains seem to work very well with both Shimano & Campy.
>> 4. You can rebuild Campy Ergopower levers to 9 or 10 speed (pre 11sp stuff).
>> 
>> Cheers!
>> 
>> On May 21, 2010, at 9:21 AM, rinjin wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> I have Campy 10 components (brifters, derailleurs, cranks) on my Ram
>>> but the rear hub is Shimano. Have used a Wheels Manuf. cassette and
>>> have looked at other options (Jtek shiftmate, etc). I think someone
>>> recently posted a link to a Zinn article about using Shimano 9-sp
>>> cassettes with good results. Searched the archives and can't find the
>>> link...anyone remember the post or have experience with this mix of
>>> parts?
>> 
>>> And, yes, I could just build a Campy rear wheel. But that would be so
>>> easy!
>> 
>>> Thanks,
>> 
>>> Brian
>>> Utah
>> 
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
>> 
>> James Valiensi, PE
>> Northridge, CA
>> H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796
>> 
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James Valiensi, PE
Northridge, CA
H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796



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[RBW] Re: Bleriot vs. Quickbeam efficiency

2010-05-21 Thread Tyler
I've known about the Soma New Xpress for awhile but assumed it won't
be a good choice for me, especially since it's described as being
somewhere between the hetre and the col de la vie in "speed."

I stopped by Box Dog Bikes on the way home to pick up a pair of
Cypres's.  I mounted them and took the bleriot for a spin around the
neighborhood.  Even on the short ride I noticed a significant
difference; much less of that sluggish feeling and almost no
hesitation when pedaling out of the saddle.  This is promising.  I
also liked the fact that I can remove and reinstall both wheels
without having to deflate the tire.

Tomorrow I'll take the bike up some hills to see if that's improved as
well.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bleriot vs. Quickbeam efficiency

2010-05-21 Thread CycloFiend
on 5/21/10 1:15 PM, Tyler at mock...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks for the input everyone!
> 
> * I've checked the whole bike for "drag" except the wheel bearings,
> I'll give those a look.

Small drag differences can be big after a while. Freehub lagging (look for
slack n the chain when you coast), wheels not completely seated in the
dropouts, binding in the hubs when you clamp the wheels down. And, of
course, the classic brake pad rubbing.
 
> * I need to confirm that my body position is the same between bikes.
> I tried to set them up as close as I could but it's possible one or
> both configurations have drifted from the original setup after dozens
> of tweaks over the last year.  I particularly need to look at saddle
> setback given that the bikes have different seat tube angles.

My comparison is between the Quickbeam and the Hilsen, which are probably
closer - especially since I tend to run the same tires on each.  I
definitely notice a difference when I switch between them, but I've usually
got the QB in fixed-gear mode, so for me, I think it's more of a difference
of fixed versus coastable.

However, it took about a year of subtle tweaking to make the setups match.
The final step was swapping to a slightly shorter stem on the Hilsen. (And
by "match" I really mean reasonably similar - they don't match, the bag/rack
arrangements are different, I have different saddles on them, etc.)

One thing that I notice is that after I've been riding the QB for a while,
switching to a coastable, many-geared bike just beats me up. My legs are
sore and I'm more tired.  It may be because unlike the Quickbeam, the
cadence is not tied to the terrain.

The other thing I notice is that the Hilsen feels less efficient for maybe a
ride or two, and then it seems normal. By the third ride in a row, I'm
riding the bicycle a bit more efficiently - using the gearing differently
and feeling more fluid on the bike.

You may want to play with riding the Bleriot for a few days straight, and
see what you learn.  It doesn seem to me that different models have
different personalities, and sometimes you have to find the way it likes to
be ridden. 

hope that's of some help,

- Jim

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