Stus-List Skirtlifters
Has anybody heard of a piece of gear called "Skirtlifters" They are some sort of device that is used to bring the foot of the genoa to the inboard side of the lifeline when tacking. Apparently you do not need to have someone on the foredeck to lift the genoa foot over the lifeline in the event of a sloppy tack going upwind. From what I know, they were designed by a fellow named Mark Halman who raced a Hobie 33. I came across an old post (2008) on Sailing Anarchy that mentioned this device but have not had luck finding additional information. They are not rollers that attach to lifelines. I'm curious to find out what these "Skirtlifters" look like. Any thoughts? ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Go Pro Camera
I have a Go Pro Black Edition and really like it. The Go Pro has a completely waterproof case which I find an absolute necessity on sporty days. The camera can be used underwater too. The sound quality does suffer when the camera is in the waterproof case. I find it particularly useful in analyzing race results. The resolution is just spectacular and the wide angle allows you to capture the sailing action on board and around you. I'm actually able to watch the compass headings in the replay and seeing the results of hitting or missing a wind shift. There is so much going on during a race that being able to replay a race is a great learning tool for the crew too. It also comes in handy in the protest room. I like to have it running at the start where there is likely to be some close encounters. There are lots of accessories so if you like to tinker, you'll have lots of toys to add to the basic camera. The wifi feature is great for situations where the camera is mounted out of reach. The one thing which I find annoying with all sailing videos is that the camera is usually mounted to the boat at a fixed location. You don't get the sense of action because the boat always appears to be level. One of my winter projects is to fabricate a gimbaled mounting bracket. I highly recommend the Go Pro. Ted Drossos C&C 29-2 H2OT ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Installing shaft zincs
Another option to help seat the zinc on the shaft is to use a "C" clamp rather than striking the zinc with a hammer. You are less likely to damage something using a clamp. Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Music in cockpit
I wanted to install a sound system in the cockpit of my 29-2 for many years but didn't want to drill large holes in the fiberglass to mount the speakers. Conventional marine speakers and grills always seem to get accidentally damaged in the cockpit of a sailboat. Water damage to speakers is another issue even if they are rated "waterproof". I installed 4 sound exciters instead of conventional speakers which elegantly addressed my concerns. Here is a link to my solution. See the "description" on You Tube for more details. I am extremely happy with the final results and the sound quality is better than I had imagined. The wired remote which controls the main stereo unit is fitted to the existing access port on the side of the cockpit. I just posted this information onto the cncphotoalbum site in the "FORUM" under the section for C&C 29"s but wanted to share this with the rest of the group. These sound exciters are great for cabin installations too. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtyRW3KCbxQ hotwater Posts: 14 Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 8:56 pm Top ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Music in cockpit
Chuck, there is detailed information about the sound exciters at the You Tube link in my original post. There is a "Description" paragraph under the bold print that says "Published on May 14 2013". Click on the words "show more" to see additional information. I'd be happy to answer any questions that aren't covered there.___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Music in cockpit
Joe, the sound exciters that I used are rated for 20 watts continuous power with a burst power rating of 40 watts. They are made by Hiwave, model number HIAX32C20-8 Bob, I used two 8 ohm sound exciters per channel. They are wired in parallel so the amp is seeing a 4 ohm load. I was going to install three exciters per channel in the cockpit which would have been 2.66 ohms wired in parallel. My stereo could handle that but the sound was so good with only two per channel, I didn't install the rest of them. I'll pick up two more and install a total of four exciters in the cabin. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Main sheet traveler
Rigrite.com has many replacement parts for obsolete hardware. If Kenyon was the OEM for your traveler, give them a call. They still carry many replacement parts for this system. Just be aware that Rigrite has terrible customer service and almost never answers e-mail messages. It took me 6 months to get a new boom extrusion from them. They know that they are the only game in town when it comes to finding obsolete parts so they really don't care much about keeping their customers happy. On the positive side, they do have a good selection. Keep on top of them, constantly. Ted Drossos C&C 29-2 H2OT Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Barient 18 Source for winch bearings
It's hard to tell from your photos of the bearings but you may not have a problem. The cage that holds the roller bearings in place are made in two parts. It looks like you have to reseat the roller bearings into the cage and then snap the cage halves together again. If you still need replacement parts, contact the Arco Hutton Winch Company. They have many parts for Barient winches in stock. http://www.arco-winches.com/products/spares ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Winch drawings
I am looking for an exploded view drawing of a Barient 24-45 self tailing winch. It's not one of the winches that are listed on the cncphotoalbum.com site. Does anyone have one that they could share or possibly have Stu post it? Maybe a link to another site? Thanks. Sent from my iPad ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Reflaking the main
Chuck, I'm sitting here reading your post hysterically laughing. I could have written your post word for work. I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one with the "disease." ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Main Sail Reefing
Friction is a problem with reefing system, flattening reefs and cunninghams where a line runs through a cringle in the sail. There is a product called Quick Reef which you install over your existing cringle which reduces friction. This piece of gear is essentially a cringle with a small sheave attached within it. Although it's a bit pricy, they can be removed and installed on your next new sail when the time comes. Here's a link to the product. I think there is another company marketing this item under a different name but I can't recall the name at the moment. http://www.goiot.com/pdf/p48a.pdf Ted Drossos C&C 29-2 H2OT ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Babystay adjuster
My 29-2 came with a 4:1 purchase block and tackle baby stay adjuster. It was an option in lieu of the standard equipment fixed babystay with a turnbuckle. I upgraded to a Harken B500 mechanical adjuster, the type where tension can be increased or decreased by inserting a standard winch handle into the unit and cranking a few revolutions. http://www.harken.com/productcategory.aspx?taxid=387 This is a very powerful piece of hardware and will easily work with much larger boats. One of the nice parts about this system is that I can tell any crew member to put exactly the number of turns on the handle that I want. Tension/mast bend settings are easily repeatable. We never have to put more than 10 revolutions on it so it's pretty fast to adjust. I have a snap shackle at the bottom of the adjuster which clips onto the babystay chain plate making it easily removable. Sent from my iPad___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Repair of Polyethylene Tank
You can use West System GFlex epoxy to repair a polyethylene holding tank. It will work on high and low density polyethylene so if you're not sure which you have, it really doesn't matter. Check out the West System site for additional documentation and videos. It's a pretty unique product. I have used it for other projects but not on polyethylene. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/g-flex-epoxy/ Ted Drossos C&C 29-2 H2OT ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List C&C 27 search
My nephew is looking to purchase a C&C 27 mkV (1984-1986) Yachtworld currently has 3 available. Does anyone have a lead on one that's for sale now or in the near future. He just sold his C&C 24 and wants to move up to a 27 mkV. He's a serious buyer for a realistically priced boat in good condition. Inboard preferred.___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Transmission or prop issue
I had the identical problem a few weeks ago. I would have bet the ranch that it was one of the folding prop blades not opening. (Martec 2 blade folder) It only happened in forward gear. I purchased a new Flexofold geared folding 2 blade prop but the problem was still there. As it turned out, it was the clutch cones in the transmission. I had Mack Boring do the rebuild. It took them two weeks to do a standard rebuild which also included new bearings and seals. Price of rebuild was $1100 and my labor. I suggest that if you have the transmission out, you should also change the damper plate. It's a pretty easy job if you have good access to the back of your engine and none of the bolts are seized. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C&C 29 mkII leak
There is definitely a keel bolt directly under the mast. If the mast hasn't been pulled in 5 years or more to torque that bolt, I'm sure that it is pretty loose. Most likely that's the source of your leak.___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New Sail recommendations: Specifically - Neil Pryde and North Sails Direct
I've purchased four Neil Pryde sails in the past and was happy with the overall construction and detailing. I knew exactly what sail materials they were going to use before committing to the purchase. They were racing sails built with a high tenacity dacron fabric. They sent samples and specifications for each material used. Be cautious when you're shopping for sails based on price alone. There are huge differences in the quality of materials. My original OEM sails built by Neil Pryde (not for my C&C) were as soft as toilet tissue and could not hold a reasonable shape when wind speed approached their upper design limit. Know what you're getting then compare prices. Sent from my iPad ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Dropping the rudder on a 29-2
I'd like to drop the rudder on my 29 mkII after it's hauled this fall. Any advise or things to watch out for? Removing the steering quadrant is pretty straight forward as long as the bolts aren't frozen. I'm not sure about what is going on at the upper and of the rudder shaft at the cockpit sole. I looks like there is possibly a bearing just beneath the fitting where the emergency tiller attaches. Has anyone been there? ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Winch for sale
There's a pair of Barlow #19 self tailing winches listed on Craigslist. http://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/boa/4531145251.html ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Long Term effects of Easy-Off
I used Easy-Off oven cleaner 14 years ago to remove the painted on name on my transom with no ill effects. Like Stevan, I also saw that the original name stood slightly proud of the surrounding gel coat. Light wet sanding with 400, 600, 800, 1200 and then compound and wax took care of all remnants of it. The gel coat has not softened or discolored whatsoever. It appears to be a safe method to remove painted on names. Wash all remaining Easy-Off from the surface once paint has been scraped away. Ted Drossos C&C 29-2 H2OT Bay Shore, NY ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Raymarine Chartplotter
Joel, which Raymarine chart plotter do you have that will show laylines? I've got an older Raymarine e80. Do you know if a software upgrade on this unit will provide layline information? Ted Drossos Long Island NY C&C 110 Lady in Red ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Bilge pump switch
When I was looking to replace my automatic bilge pump switch, the Water Witch was high on my list of choices until I read this note on the Water Witch website. NOTE: If large amounts of rain water can enter the bilge, it may dilute the normal, fresh or salt, water outside oursensitivity window. Corrective action can be to switch pump on manually to remove diluted water or toadd minerals such as salt, baking soda, bilge cleaners, etc... NORMAL FRESH WATER HAS AMPLEMINERAL CONTENT FOR PROPER OPERATION. Since the only water coming into my boat is rainwater from the keel stepped mast, the Water Witch was no longer a viable option. Some people who install this switch may not be aware of this shortcoming which can cause unexpected non performance. Ted Drossos Long Island, NY C&C 29-2 (for sale) C&C 110 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Bilge pump switch
Dennis, the "Ultra Safety Systems" bilge pump switch you recommended is the one I ultimately selected. Very nice piece of gear. I'm using the model with the optional remote high water alarm. I'm wondering if the high water alarm function could activate another bilge pump in the event of emergency. Any thoughts on that? Ted Drossos Long Island, NY C&C 29-2 (for sale) C&C 110 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Autohelm hand bearing compass
I think that Ron C. was looking to replace his Autohelm hand bearing compass. They are great units. I have an extra one available for $75 USD if you're interested. Kept it as a spare on my other boat but that's for sale now so it won't be sold with the boat. Ted Drossos C&C 29-2 H2OT (for sale) C&C 110 Lady in Red Long Island, NY ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List 34+
Another boat that you might want to consider is the C&C 110. The shoal draft version draws 4'-10". It's a little bit longer, wider and faster than the 34+. If you're looking for a project, there's one listed on Yachtworld for $30,000 on the east coast. Here's the link. http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1999/C%26C-Sloop-2927913/Mendon/MA/United-States#.VslHMMdh31w Ted Drossos Bay Shore, Long Island, NY C&C 110 Lady in Red ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Cushions smell
There's a product called "Pure Ayre" which is a very effective odor neutralizer. Here is the link to their web site. http://www.pureayre.com/index.htm The product is safe around food and pets too. Ted Drossos C&C110 Lady in Red Long Island, NY ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Wanted - Traveler, Car & "T" track
Peter Fell was looking for a Harken windward sheeting traveler and car. I have both of these items. A "small boat" windward sheeting adapter kit #213 and a "small boat", high load captive bearing traveler car #2727. They are both new and still in their original packing. I was just about to put them on eBay along with a bunch of other hardware and sails for a C&C 29-2. I wish that the cncphotoalbum classified section was still functioning. Is it appropriate to list items for sale here? Ted Drossos C&C110 Lady in Red Long Island, NY ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Looking for feedback please
That's a wide range of boats to consider. Draft may be important to you if you are sailing in Florida. The C&C 110 is available with four different keel configurations. 7.25', 6.5', 6.0' and 4.83'. The shoal draft may be a boat to consider in your area. I have a C&C 110 shoal draft which actually points better than I expected. Where I sail, there isn't an option to have a deeper draft so the 110 was the perfect choice. The 99 and 121 are at opposite ends of the scale so only you will be able to determine if they have enough or too much room for you. Their layouts are very different. The 110 and 115 are very similar in size and layout. If you're moving up from a smaller boat keep in mind that loads increase exponentially. Grinding in a large genoa or raising the main on a large boat can suck the life out of you in a hurry. They are very well built boats and as expected, sail with a performance bias. What do you intend to do with the boat? How many people are you trying to accommodate and for how long? Planning on doing any racing or just fast cruising? Ted Drossos C&C 110 Lady in Red Bay Shore, NY ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sound exciter installation on a C&C 29 sailboat
Yes, the person who posted that video of the sound exciter installation on a C&C 29 is a lister. Me. I have to say that I was very skeptical when I originally started that project but figured that it was worth a shot. Cutting 6" diameter holes in my cockpit had prevented me from adding speakers for many years. That YouTube video was taken with an iPad so the sound quality isn't a true representation of the great sound that these little sound exciters can produce. A typical speaker would also make nearby objects vibrate if they were loose and in close proximity. It's not an issue. This is a great solution to adding sound in the cockpit without having to cut holes. They stay dry and can't be accidentally damaged by a foot going through them. I've seen that happen all to often on other boats. Ted Drossos C&C 29-2 H2OT Long Island, NY ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Sound exciter installation on a C&C 29
Ron, I am using a Fusion MS-IP600 stereo unit mounted in the cabin. What you see in the cockpit in the YouTube video is a Fusion MS-WR600 wired remote. I can control all the functions of the cabin mounted unit from the cockpit remote. (Not just the volume) I installed the remote in an existing access port so I didn't have to drill additional holes in the cockpit. The access port was factory installed to access the shore power plug and other hidden stuff. I used two sound exciters per channel. (4 total) The foam adhesive rings that hold the exciter in place has a very aggressive adhesive. I did however sand the backside of the cockpit seat backs to create a very smooth surface. Final grit was 400. The exciter sticks much better to smooth surfaces. There is some information about the specific sound exciters that I installed located in the description on YouTube. When the cncphotoalbum.com site had the FORUM functioning, I had posted some still photos of the actual exciter installation with an explanation of the installation. I guess that's gone now unless Stu can set up the FORUM again. Ted Drossos C&C 29-2 H2OT Long Island, NY ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Torquing keel nuts
Torquing keel bolts to 250 ft. lbs. is a bit of a workout but certainly within the means of the average physically fit person. As long as you have an extension from the torque wrench to the socket that is long enough to get the torque wrench above the cabin sole, it shouldn't be a problem. I check mine every year without the help of a cheater bar or jack and I'm not a particularly strong person. 62 yrs. old, 5'-11" & 185 lbs.and have never seen the inside of a gym. If you are having a problem, a helping hand from a friend will make it much simpler than a jack. Loosing the nuts is not a problem. Loosen one at a time. Ted Drossos C&C 29-2 H2OT Long Island, NY ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Folding prop
I have a 2 blade Flex-O-Fold prop and never experienced this type of problem. How long has it been since your boat was last hauled and the prop checked? Those props are pretty bullet proof. I would venture to guess that there is something stuck between the gears like a build up of heavy slime which is preventing the blades from opening easily. Try placing the transmission in forward or reverse and then back into neutral a couple of dozen times and see if that loosens the blades up a bit. I don't believe that greasing the pins is necessary as there normally should be very little friction between the clean metal mating parts. Ted Drossos C&C 29-2 H2OT Long Island, NY ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Torquing keel nuts
Torquing the keel nuts on a C&C 29-2 is a one person job if you use a shorter extension than the one you describe. I assume you have the standard 5'-3" draft model which has a larger and deeper bilge than the 4'-0" shoal draft version. The extension doesn't have to be so long as to raise the torque wrench above the settee. Just get a long enough extension so that the wrench clears the top of the cabin sole. Sit on the sole with the end of wrench handle facing aft. Brace your legs against the vertical face of the settee and your back against the settee on the opposite side. This will give you enough leverage to reach the 350 ft. lb. torque on the largest bolts. You'll need a 12" long extension for those nuts. Don't forget the nut hidden under the mast. That's the one that makes the "smile" if you neglect to torque it on a regular basis. Ted Drossos C&C 29-2 H2OT Bay Shore, Long Island, NY Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album. Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List C&C 110
I'm looking for feedback about the sailing characteristics of the C&C 110's shoal draft version. It has a pretty generous sail area to displacement ratio. I often sail solo or short hand with one other crew member and was wondering what size headsail would be appropriate for winds in the 15-20 knot true wind range. I've never sailed on this particular model and have it on my short list of possible new boats. I would love to speak with someone who owns one of these boats If you wouldn't mind spending some time answering a bunch of questions, please drop me a note with a phone number where I can call you. Thanks. And if anybody is looking for a really nice C&C 29-2, mine is for sale. http://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/40576 Ted Drossos C&C 29-2 H2OT Bay Shore, Long Island, NY ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album. Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Sold boats
Does anyone have access to Soldboats.com? I'm trying to get a rough idea how much C&C 110's between 1999-2003 are selling for. I know this is a service that brokers sometimes subscribe to and I am more than happy to pay someone for that information. Trying to find a fair value for a used boat can be difficult. Any help would be greatly appreciated. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Water Heater
I have a new 6 gallon Raritan water heater listed in the event you want to replace yours with the same model. https://sbo.sailboatowners.com/gear/gear.php?task=showad&id=6240 Ted Drossos C&C 110 Lady in Red ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C 110 Owners
I know that some of us participate in multiple sailing forums such as Sailnet, Cruisers Forum, Sailboatowners etc. There is a C&C 110 specific forum on the Sailingnetworks site that is going to shut down sometime before the end of the year. Unfortunately that site has experienced a lot of trouble and has been down more than it's been up. I just wanted to let all C&C 110 owners here know that we are trying to migrate the documents from the Sailingnetworks site over to the new "C&C 110 Owners" Facebook site. This may take a while because of the unreliability of the site. If you're a C&C 110 owner and would like to share information about it, you should check out the Facebook site too. Ted Drossos C&C 110 s/v Lady in Red Long Island, NY ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C build files
I don't recall who has the library of remaining C&C build files and other construction documents. I know it's not South Shore Yacht but can't remember who it is. I'm looking for information about a custom 44. Can anyone provide contact information? Thanks Ted Drossos C&C 110 Lady in Red Long Island, NY ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C 110 and 99
Stu, Would you be able to add the links to the C&C 110 and C&C 99 owners groups on Facebook to the "C&C Groups" section of the cncphotoalbum site? I just noticed that the links to the existing C&C 99 North American Class Association and the Viking 28 Association on the cncphotoalbum aren't working. I believe those sites are no longer active. Ted Drossos C&C 110 Lady in Red Long Island, NY ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Sail drives in general
I had also had reservations about sail drives when looking for my next boat. I spoke with a lot of people who actually owned a boat with a sail drive and the overwhelming majority of owners really liked them. There was nothing said that would would have prevented me from purchasing a boat with a sail drive. So I did. I have owned boats with shafts and sail drives and can tell you from first hand experience that I prefer a sail drive. Some people worry about the seal at the hull failing and sinking their boat but if you ever saw that seal, you would realize it would be very difficult for it to fail. When I purchased my boat I had the original seal replaced as it was 14 years old but still looked new. I tried to puncture the old seal with a screwdriver but it was extremely difficult to do. It was easier to damage the bellows on my previous boat with a PSS dripless shaft seal. The sail drive seal is protected by the hull and sits about 8 inches above the bottom of the boat. You would have to do a huge amount of damage to your hull before the seal would be exposed. Changing the seal is a DIY project if you are somewhat handy. I will definitely do it myself next time. My engine had to be slid forward a couple of inches to remove the sail drive. There was one mechanic doing the work and he had no problem moving the engine by himself. The sail drive on my boat is 16 years old and doesn't have any corrosion. Keep it coated with the proper paint and you won't have issues. Maintenance costs are similar to those of a shaft drive. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another boat with a sail drive as I don't see any downside. Ted Drossos C&C 110 Lady in Red ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List White non-skid decks
I use "Starbrite Non-Skid Deck Cleaner with PTEF". It's easy to use because it's a one step process. Wash the deck with this product and it leaves a coating of PTEF which helps to keep the deck clean. The deck seems to stay cleaner longer between washings. The fine fissures of the non-skid surface hold dirt really well. I power washed my deck for the first time this Spring and was amazed at how much cleaner the decks looked. If your shoes are dirty, I don't think there is much you can do to prevent your deck from showing footprints. Ted Drossos C&C 110 Lady in Red Long Island, NY ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+
I had Harken adjustable cars on my C&C 29-2 and now on my C&C 110. They are expensive but they work so much better than other adjustable cars that I've used on some of my friend's boats. As a direct real world comparison, one of my friends who also had a 29-2 had Garhauer make custom genoa cars to fit on his existing Merriman tracks. The fit was great but they were extremely difficult to adjust under load. When the tension on the control line was released, the car would not move aft. Even when there was a considerable wind load on the sail which should have been enough to allow it to move on its own. He had to pull on a line that was attached to the rear of the car to move it aft. In fairness, the Garhauer cars did not have ball bearings like the Harken cars have. My present boat is approximately the same size as your boat and the loads generated by the genoa are similar too. I have no problem adjusting the lead location even when the sail is fully loaded. I would think that if you installed a Garhauer car on a boat larger than the 29-2, you may be disappointed unless you don't mind unloading the sheet before you make a forward adjustment to the car. Ted Drossos C&C 110 Lady in Red Long Island, NY ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 144, Issue 46
-Original Message- From: cnc-list-request To: cnc-list Sent: Sat, Jan 13, 2018 7:36 pm Subject: Prop for 37/40+ The quote from "Maine Sail" that Ken included in his post was part of a discussion on Sailnet. The original Sailnet poster was very unhappy with their J Prop. Here is a link to that discussion. http://www.sailnet.com/forums/general-discussion-sailing-related/224938-pros-cons-folding-propellers-avoid-j-props.html There are variables that might make one prop someone's favorite while another user might have a completely different opinion. Maine Sail really disliked his Flex-O-Fold while many people including me loved it. His complaint was primarily vibration which he stated in another thread on Sailboatowners. The diameter of the prop shaft, the distance the shaft extends past the strut and the prop to hull clearance could have contributed to his discontent. There are so many variables that it's difficult to say definitely which prop would work best on any given boat unless you are comparing identical boats. Ted Drossos C&C 110 s/v Lady in Red Long Island, NY * ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Source for LDP Water Tank Inspection Port Caps & O-Rings?
Bruce, I had a similar issue with water leaking from the inspection port cover. I purchased some "X" Profile O-rings from Mcmaster.com. This style O ring gives you double protection against possible leaks because there are two areas where the O ring makes contact with the tank and cover. Ted Drossos C&C 110 s/v Lady in Red Long Island, NY ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Sail Changeover for 29 mk1
When I raced my 29-2 I would change from a 155% to either a 125% or 135% when sustained apparent wind was 20 knots or greater. There was a 29-1 in our fleet who had to shorten sail sooner than us. I sold my boat and have two racing headsails available if anyone is interested . They are 100% and 125% and were only used three times. Ted Drossos C&C 110 Lady in Red Long Island, NY * ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Sail drive
I have a Volvo 120 sail drive on my 2001 C&C 110. Nice unit. No problems. Ted Drossos C&C 110 Lady in Red Long Island, NY ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Water heater
Raritan makes an excellent water heater. I had one on my 1983 C&C 29. The original was still working fine after 30 years. I purchased a new one because the top on the old one was starting to show signs of rust. I sold that boat before installing the new water heater. If anyone is interested in buying a 6 gallon Raritan water heater with a heat exchanger, I still have it. Drop me a note. Ted Drossos C&C 110 Lady in Red Long Island, NY ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List New Sheets - What kind of line?
Putting an eye on both ends of your genoa sheets is a good idea for when you change your sheets end for end. Just make sure that the bulk of the eye splice will still fit through a turning block if you are using them. Otherwise you will have to disassemble the turning block to reeve the sheet through it. Ted Drossos C&C 110 Lady in Red Long Island, NY ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List C&C 29 sails for sale
I sold my C&C 29-2 and have four nearly new racing headsails for sale. I figured I'd give the cnc-list members first shot at them before listing them elsewhere. Here's some basic information: UK Silver 130%, Haarstick 100%, North 145%, Haarstick 125%. They are all high tech laminates with luff tapes. The UK sail is brand new and the other three have only been used a few times. They are all in perfect racing condition. As a price guide, I'm looking to get 50 percent of the original purchase price. Drop me a note if you would like dimensions, photos or additional information. These sails would make a wonderful holiday gift to "SELF". Ted Drossos C&C 110 Lady in Red Long Island, New York ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Planning a transpacific sail with a C&C 110
Bruce, you might try contacting Dirk Husselman who raced his 2000 C&C110 named Xpression in the 2011 Farallones Race and the 2013 LongPac Race singlehanded. Dirk posted some videos of those races on Youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjWAPWQSnUs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14dJT6Sfl5o Also try contacting Michael Schum who raced his C&C110 named Kontradiction in the bi-annual Bermuda One-Two Race. There is a good article in Scuttlebut about one of those races. Unfortunately, Michael lost his rig during the last race. http://www.sailingscuttlebutt.com/2013/09/18/rescue-sea-personal-account-overcoming-obstacles/ These were not transpacific runs but their experiences should be able to give you a good first hand perspective of the boat's capabilities. I believe that Dirk lives in Berkley California and Michael is in the Pennsylvania. Dirk occasionally posts on the C&C110 Owners forum at Sailingnetworks.com Ted Drossos C&C110 Lady in Red Long Island, NY * ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions
That's a nice looking 36 especially for its age. I was surprised to see a tiller and not a wheel. Not a negative, just an observation. Ted DrossosC&C 110Lady in Red Long Island, NY___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C Facebook Groups
There are quite a few C&C related Facebook groups. Some have been mentioned recently in previous posts. Here are a couple of more groups specifically dedicated to individual models like the "C&C 110 Owners" and the "C&C 99 Class Association." Ted DrossosC&C 110Lady in RedLong Island, NY ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List List Burnished bottom paint
Here's an interesting article explaining the benefits of a smooth bottom, keel and rudder. There is actually some testing that went into the results. Worth a read. https://www.gp14.org/a-smooth-bottom-is-a-fast-bottom/ Ted DrossosC&C 110S/V Lady in RedBay Shore, NYThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: winch mounting project
Hi Dave, I did a similar winch installation on my previous C&C 29-2. I mounted Barient ST24 winches in place of the existing Barient 18's. Instead of using and aluminum adapter, the ones I fabricated were made from 1/4" thick stainless steel. I was concerned that tapping the aluminum would not be strong enough. The new winches were primary winches and they would see higher loads than a halyard winch would. A nice advantage was being able to remove the winches for servicing without having another person hold the bolt head as I loosened the nut from under the deck. Ted DrossosC&C 110Lady in Red Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Sail costs
I had a new 155% made by Quantum for my C&C 110 in 2020 . It was a carbon fiber tri-radial with Liteskin. $6300 plus tax and delivery. Ted DrossosC&C 110Lady in RedLong Island, NY -Original Message- From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER Sent: Sat, Mar 18, 2023 9:54 am Subject: Stus-List Sail costs Sail costs: A new light air genoa was quoted at $5200 for my 36 footer, so I decided instead to have repairs made to my old sails. They repaired my #2 for $700. They will alter my #3 for a little more. They are removing horizontal battens and installing vertical battens, and adding UV, so it can be furled. I've chosen to use Chesapeake Sailmakers because they are service oriented, came out and measured my rig before I spent any money, and they took time to evaluate my sails and offer options. Wonder what others are paying for new sails and/or repairs. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Cored hulls feedback wanted
The newer C&C's such as the 99,110,115 & 121 use CoreCell foam rather than balsa core. Here is a good article explaining the pros and cons of different core types. The biggest advantage for CoreCell is that it doesn't absorb water. https://www.fram.nl/faq/how/SP_CoreCell_comp.pdf Ted DrossosC&C 110 Lady in RedLong Island, NY On 03/20/2023 7:06 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote: As we once again consider a boat with cored hull (LF43 or LF38), I am reminded of why we eventually chose our current 35 four years ago. I couldn't be sure of the hull integrity without an expensive survey, and at the low price range we could afford, avoiding a cored hull just removed this concern. But as I understand it, most C&Cs over 35' have been cored since the late 60s or early 70s depending on the model, so that includes a lot of boats, most of which are probably still sailing, albeit mainly coastal cruising or racing. Now as we consider the next boat for our long term offshore boat, things like potential hull damage from a reef or a collision in a remote part of the world are a concern. So I am interested in hearing about experiences with cored C&Cs, problem which have occurred under both normal use and as a result of damage from impact, and how effectively they could be repaired. I guess an additional question is how C&C's balsa coring compares with modern day foam coring, either with or without vacuum bagging. I assume foam has some advantages in not absorbing water. Thanks. -- Shawn Wright Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?
Here's a link to how I added a midship cleat.https://www.facebook.com/groups/206427463229026/permalink/298001127404992 Ted DrossosC&C 110Lady in RedBay Shore, NY -Original Message- From: Peter McMinn via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: petemcm...@gmail.com Sent: Wed, Mar 10, 2021 2:27 am Subject: Stus-List midship cleats on aluminum rail? A question for those of us with aluminum toe rails. I’d like to find a solution for midship cleating for docking/departing and springline placement. I’m currently securing a line around a stanchion mount, which seems strong, but I’d like to find a cleat that mounts to the toe rail. Haven’t seen anything in the catalogs. I’m thinking a carabiner or even a soft shackle through a rail hole might be a good fix. Given the general opinion that midship cleating is handy, I’m curious what you use.Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?
Bill, The cleats were manufactured by Barton. They are made with nylon and are the 200mm size. The track that they slide onto was custom made from aluminum and are anodized. They are screwed to the toerail using the original hole spacing so no additional holes were needed. It is not possible to add additional fasteners at the same spacing of the toerail as someone suggested. The curved shape of the toerail will not permit a longer track to be used and would cause interference between the track and the toerail. You would not be able to install or remove the cleat after the track is bolted in place. Ted Drossos C&C 110Lady in RedBay Shore, NY -Original Message- From: WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List To: Dave S via CnC-List Cc: WILLIAM WALKER Sent: Thu, Mar 11, 2021 8:24 am Subject: Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail? Ted, Could you provide info on parts you used? What material did you use as base for track? I assume replace two of the toe rail machine screws with proper length. Love this idea. Bill WalkerCnC 36Pentwater, Mi. Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
