Stus-List Re: Old Harken Roller II

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

I have never figured out which one I have. It has roll pins to connect the
foils. Can never find the right pins and am missing the top cap and have
one broken connector. I kept all the pieces just in case I broke the new
one like I broke this one. I don't like the new one. It is 1" in diameter,
has a higher drum so I had to cut the sail. Now the tell tales are too
close to the fat foil and remain in turbulent air due the foil diameter. I
would rather have fixed the old one and kept the sail as it was. Nice thin
double track foil.

On Fri, Jul 9, 2021 at 11:19 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> HI Guys, I replaced my old harken roller furler with a new Sheafer.
>
> Before I toss it, I thought I'd see if anyone needed any parts.  Maybe I
> should send it to one of the used boat parts places.  At least maybe it
> could go to use rather than being trashed...
>
> I replaced the old harken traveler too.  So, I still have that laying
> around.
>
> Danny
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Broken Bolt in Epoxy

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I have a Broken ¼ - 20 broken carriage bolt with around 2 threads showing out 
my transom.

1 ½” is embedded in epoxy. An easy-out seems unlikely.  I did four, three of 
them unscrewed successfully, but apparently I didn’t coat this one thoroughly 
enough with the Vaseline. 

 

I am thinking that if I can heat the bolt up to around 300 degrees or so, it 
will break the bond with the epoxy. A soldering iron seems *maybe* possible, 
but that is only one side. I was wondering if I could heat it up, like plumbers 
do with welders to melt frozen water lines, it might be an option. 

But I don’t understand enough about electrical resistance to know how to go 
about it. Using a battery for juice seems risky, having seen what happens when 
I have shorted them out with a wrench – 

I do have a 30 amp adjustable Powerwerks power supply, which seems a little 
safer.

What I don’t understand, is if I can put a positive on one end of the bolt, and 
negative on the other, will it heat the bolt, or will it just melt the 
insulation off the wires? Or ruin the power supply? Or is it a factor of the 
gauge of the wires?

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

I don't know about all the other questions but the heat will happen
wherever the highest resistance is. So if the copper wires have sufficient
gauge one might expect the bolt would heat up. One would have to compare
feet of copper to inches of steel to determine where the load will be. As
to damage it would depend on how well it is protected from over current. I
don't think I would try it.

On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 2:41 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a Broken ¼ - 20 broken carriage bolt with around 2 threads showing
> out my transom.
>
> 1 ½” is embedded in epoxy. An easy-out seems unlikely.  I did four, three
> of them unscrewed successfully, but apparently I didn’t coat this one
> thoroughly enough with the Vaseline.
>
>
>
> I am thinking that if I can heat the bolt up to around 300 degrees or so,
> it will break the bond with the epoxy. A soldering iron seems **maybe**
> possible, but that is only one side. I was wondering if I could heat it up,
> like plumbers do with welders to melt frozen water lines, it might be an
> option.
>
> But I don’t understand enough about electrical resistance to know how to
> go about it. Using a battery for juice seems risky, having seen what
> happens when I have shorted them out with a wrench –
>
> I do have a 30 amp adjustable Powerwerks power supply, which seems a
> little safer.
>
> What I don’t understand, is if I can put a positive on one end of the
> bolt, and negative on the other, will it heat the bolt, or will it just
> melt the insulation off the wires? Or ruin the power supply? Or is it a
> factor of the gauge of the wires?
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Can you just grind it away and leave  it.

On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 3:41 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a Broken ¼ - 20 broken carriage bolt with around 2 threads showing
> out my transom.
>
> 1 ½” is embedded in epoxy. An easy-out seems unlikely.  I did four, three
> of them unscrewed successfully, but apparently I didn’t coat this one
> thoroughly enough with the Vaseline.
>
>
>
> I am thinking that if I can heat the bolt up to around 300 degrees or so,
> it will break the bond with the epoxy. A soldering iron seems **maybe**
> possible, but that is only one side. I was wondering if I could heat it up,
> like plumbers do with welders to melt frozen water lines, it might be an
> option.
>
> But I don’t understand enough about electrical resistance to know how to
> go about it. Using a battery for juice seems risky, having seen what
> happens when I have shorted them out with a wrench –
>
> I do have a 30 amp adjustable Powerwerks power supply, which seems a
> little safer.
>
> What I don’t understand, is if I can put a positive on one end of the
> bolt, and negative on the other, will it heat the bolt, or will it just
> melt the insulation off the wires? Or ruin the power supply? Or is it a
> factor of the gauge of the wires?
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

You can probably drive the bolt back through the transom using a hammer or
sledge hammer, and then a punch and a hammer. A hard strike should break it
free from the epoxy. If it's truly a carriage bolt, you don't want to try
to turn it. A carriage bolt has a round head and a square neck.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 2:42 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Can you just grind it away and leave  it.
>
> On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 3:41 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a Broken ¼ - 20 broken carriage bolt with around 2 threads showing
>> out my transom.
>>
>> 1 ½” is embedded in epoxy. An easy-out seems unlikely.  I did four, three
>> of them unscrewed successfully, but apparently I didn’t coat this one
>> thoroughly enough with the Vaseline.
>>
>>
>>
>> I am thinking that if I can heat the bolt up to around 300 degrees or so,
>> it will break the bond with the epoxy. A soldering iron seems **maybe**
>> possible, but that is only one side. I was wondering if I could heat it up,
>> like plumbers do with welders to melt frozen water lines, it might be an
>> option.
>>
>> But I don’t understand enough about electrical resistance to know how to
>> go about it. Using a battery for juice seems risky, having seen what
>> happens when I have shorted them out with a wrench –
>>
>> I do have a 30 amp adjustable Powerwerks power supply, which seems a
>> little safer.
>>
>> What I don’t understand, is if I can put a positive on one end of the
>> bolt, and negative on the other, will it heat the bolt, or will it just
>> melt the insulation off the wires? Or ruin the power supply? Or is it a
>> factor of the gauge of the wires?
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!61cXmQ3t_0HBAdnGhtRD8lgVwNjDVtT-8uqhtSM8F0aVJFfk5eDfhB2Km5s1TBL1Vk8$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy

[Dave S via CnC-List]

The electrical idea is basically a dead short it’ll either trip a fuse or melt 
something other than the bolt.  -  plan B required.

Could you somehow bore around the screw?
Could you cut a slot in the head and try an impact driver?
Could you drill 3-4 holes small holes close around the screw then try the 
impact driver?
Could you double-nut the back side and get it to turn?
Combinations of above?
What is on the non-broken side?


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 20, 2021, at 6:09 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> You can probably drive the bolt back through the transom using a hammer or 
> sledge hammer, and then a punch and a hammer. A hard strike should break it 
> free from the epoxy. If it's truly a carriage bolt, you don't want to try to 
> turn it. A carriage bolt has a round head and a square neck.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 2:42 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Can you just grind it away and leave  it. 
>> 
>>> On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 3:41 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I have a Broken ¼ - 20 broken carriage bolt with around 2 threads showing 
>>> out my transom.
>>> 
>>> 1 ½” is embedded in epoxy. An easy-out seems unlikely.  I did four, three 
>>> of them unscrewed successfully, but apparently I didn’t coat this one 
>>> thoroughly enough with the Vaseline.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I am thinking that if I can heat the bolt up to around 300 degrees or so, 
>>> it will break the bond with the epoxy. A soldering iron seems *maybe* 
>>> possible, but that is only one side. I was wondering if I could heat it up, 
>>> like plumbers do with welders to melt frozen water lines, it might be an 
>>> option.
>>> 
>>> But I don’t understand enough about electrical resistance to know how to go 
>>> about it. Using a battery for juice seems risky, having seen what happens 
>>> when I have shorted them out with a wrench –
>>> 
>>> I do have a 30 amp adjustable Powerwerks power supply, which seems a little 
>>> safer.
>>> 
>>> What I don’t understand, is if I can put a positive on one end of the bolt, 
>>> and negative on the other, will it heat the bolt, or will it just melt the 
>>> insulation off the wires? Or ruin the power supply? Or is it a factor of 
>>> the gauge of the wires?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Bill Coleman
>>> 
>>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>>> Stu
>> -- 
>> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   
>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!61cXmQ3t_0HBAdnGhtRD8lgVwNjDVtT-8uqhtSM8F0aVJFfk5eDfhB2Km5s1TBL1Vk8$
>>Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I'd get a 1/8 reverse drill bit.  Drill hogs make a great product.  Heat it
with a soldering iron and then after getting a good center punch on the
remaining stud start the reverse drill.  Epoxy will be gooey and should let
it go pretty easy.  You could probably get away pretty easily with a butane
soldering iron.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZJLJ3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_367PHHW6XASTMHSCVXY6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YQWDQRN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_99Q69HSZBK6QXPV0RQWZ

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Jul 20, 2021, 14:41 Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have a Broken ¼ - 20 broken carriage bolt with around 2 threads showing
> out my transom.
>
> 1 ½” is embedded in epoxy. An easy-out seems unlikely.  I did four, three
> of them unscrewed successfully, but apparently I didn’t coat this one
> thoroughly enough with the Vaseline.
>
>
>
> I am thinking that if I can heat the bolt up to around 300 degrees or so,
> it will break the bond with the epoxy. A soldering iron seems **maybe**
> possible, but that is only one side. I was wondering if I could heat it up,
> like plumbers do with welders to melt frozen water lines, it might be an
> option.
>
> But I don’t understand enough about electrical resistance to know how to
> go about it. Using a battery for juice seems risky, having seen what
> happens when I have shorted them out with a wrench –
>
> I do have a 30 amp adjustable Powerwerks power supply, which seems a
> little safer.
>
> What I don’t understand, is if I can put a positive on one end of the
> bolt, and negative on the other, will it heat the bolt, or will it just
> melt the insulation off the wires? Or ruin the power supply? Or is it a
> factor of the gauge of the wires?
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu