Stus-List wet rudder on 1974 Mk II 27'

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

Hey folks!
Recently took a three hour trip up the coast to look at a 1974 C&C MkII 27'. 
She is is reasonable condition and priced accordingly. Some of the issues are 
minor, a few of concern and I will ask your advice and opinion on those.
She has core issues, but really was remarkable dry throughout. Bow pulpit 
stanchions an core from the tip of the bow to roughly 2' back will need to be 
re-cored and re-bedded...not a big deal as I have done much of this over the 
past 30 years.
The leading edge of the keel has some dings and the port side shows some 
indication of the faring material coming away from the keel joint (as far as I 
could tell), Inspection of the keel joints showed all is well (and my god there 
is no bilge on this boat!!!).  I'm thinking grinding and chipping it out, new 
faring material, barrier coat...etc... not too bad?
Her winches (Barstow) are a but sluggish and it feels like a lot of drag on 
them. Never have had to service winches before but have heard it can be a 
nightmare?? Just another consideration. Sail inventory and electronics, running 
lights and cabin lights all in good order. chainplates, toerail...all good!
The real bone of contention I suppose it the rudder. There is a noticeable 
crack at the top of the rudder which needs repair. The rudder is wet and there 
are something cracks on the bottom trailing edge that would need mending. Does 
this need a rebuild or can I get away with drilling, drying out, thickened 
epoxy resin in the holes and call it good? Is this a deal breaker?
Any suggestions about the rudder. I would hate to have to remove it and rebuild 
but I could if I had to.
Chris___

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Re: Stus-List wet rudder on 1974 Mk II 27'

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

A rebuild should cost $2,500

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661


From: 20162617500n behalf of
Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2018 8:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Graham
Subject: Stus-List wet rudder on 1974 Mk II 27'

Hey folks!

Recently took a three hour trip up the coast to look at a 1974 C&C MkII 27'. 
She is is reasonable condition and priced accordingly. Some of the issues are 
minor, a few of concern and I will ask your advice and opinion on those.

She has core issues, but really was remarkable dry throughout. Bow pulpit 
stanchions an core from the tip of the bow to roughly 2' back will need to be 
re-cored and re-bedded...not a big deal as I have done much of this over the 
past 30 years.

The leading edge of the keel has some dings and the port side shows some 
indication of the faring material coming away from the keel joint (as far as I 
could tell), Inspection of the keel joints showed all is well (and my god there 
is no bilge on this boat!!!).  I'm thinking grinding and chipping it out, new 
faring material, barrier coat...etc... not too bad?

Her winches (Barstow) are a but sluggish and it feels like a lot of drag on 
them. Never have had to service winches before but have heard it can be a 
nightmare?? Just another consideration. Sail inventory and electronics, running 
lights and cabin lights all in good order. chainplates, toerail...all good!

The real bone of contention I suppose it the rudder. There is a noticeable 
crack at the top of the rudder which needs repair. The rudder is wet and there 
are something cracks on the bottom trailing edge that would need mending. Does 
this need a rebuild or can I get away with drilling, drying out, thickened 
epoxy resin in the holes and call it good? Is this a deal breaker?

Any suggestions about the rudder. I would hate to have to remove it and rebuild 
but I could if I had to.

Chris
___

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Re: Stus-List Composting head in 33-2?

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

What did you replace it with?

-Original Message- 
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2018 5:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Composting head in 33-2?

I have a 12 Gallon holding tank I took out of my 39 several years ago, along 
with some pump, maybe macerator, etc. if anyone is interested. Cannot 
guarentte the electiical parts work, but they did when I removed them.


Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave. via 
CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2018 12:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: kasel...@q.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Composting head in 33-2?

Dave.
I love your question and look forward to responses. We, on our 33-1 are 
looking at the same issue. In our case we have had no real holding tank (a 6 
gallon job which was never used) but have used an electro-scan Type 1 Marine 
Sanitation Device. As Puget Sound in now a no discharge zone we need to 
choose our next system. The composting head sounds like an interesting 
option but I too would like to here what others have experienced. They are 
not cheap but neither is a custom made holding tank. I’ve looked at the many 
prefabricated tanks and have not found one which would fit our situation.

Dave.
SLY
1975 C&C 33

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 29, 2018, at 11:40 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  
wrote:


Has anyone installed a composting head in a 33 or similar?
Have been contemplating replacement of my stench-impregnated holding tank 
and hoses and it was suggested I look at a composting head instead.
Very tempting for many reasons, plus a huge gain in interior space below 
the v-berth.
my only concern is size of the unit itself and I wonder  if anyone has 
already been down this road.   Any thoughts or guidance?

Thanks!
Dave - windstar 33-2
Sent from my iPhone
___

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___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

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Re: Stus-List wet rudder on 1974 Mk II 27'

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

My rudder rebuild was ~$5k.  Here are some pictures and video of the
rebuild.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA

In retrospect it didn't specifically need rebuilt for corrosion or
structural issues but you just can't tell until you tear it apart.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Thu, Oct 4, 2018, 8:36 AM Chris Graham via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey folks!
>
> Recently took a three hour trip up the coast to look at a 1974 C&C MkII
> 27'. She is is reasonable condition and priced accordingly. Some of the
> issues are minor, a few of concern and I will ask your advice and opinion
> on those.
>
> She has core issues, but really was remarkable dry throughout. Bow pulpit
> stanchions an core from the tip of the bow to roughly 2' back will need to
> be re-cored and re-bedded...not a big deal as I have done much of this over
> the past 30 years.
>
> The leading edge of the keel has some dings and the port side shows some
> indication of the faring material coming away from the keel joint (as far
> as I could tell), Inspection of the keel joints showed all is well (and my
> god there is no bilge on this boat!!!).  I'm thinking grinding and chipping
> it out, new faring material, barrier coat...etc... not too bad?
>
> Her winches (Barstow) are a but sluggish and it feels like a lot of drag
> on them. Never have had to service winches before but have heard it can be
> a nightmare?? Just another consideration. Sail inventory and electronics,
> running lights and cabin lights all in good order. chainplates,
> toerail...all good!
>
> The real bone of contention I suppose it the rudder. There is a noticeable
> crack at the top of the rudder which needs repair. The rudder is wet and
> there are something cracks on the bottom trailing edge that would need
> mending. Does this need a rebuild or can I get away with drilling, drying
> out, thickened epoxy resin in the holes and call it good? Is this a deal
> breaker?
>
> Any suggestions about the rudder. I would hate to have to remove it and
> rebuild but I could if I had to.
>
> Chris
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List wet rudder on 1974 Mk II 27'

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh!!!Chris


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 4, 2018, 10:00 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

My rudder rebuild was ~$5k.  Here are some pictures and video of the rebuild.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA

In retrospect it didn't specifically need rebuilt for corrosion or structural 
issues but you just can't tell until you tear it apart.
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD

On Thu, Oct 4, 2018, 8:36 AM Chris Graham via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hey folks!
Recently took a three hour trip up the coast to look at a 1974 C&C MkII 27'. 
She is is reasonable condition and priced accordingly. Some of the issues are 
minor, a few of concern and I will ask your advice and opinion on those.
She has core issues, but really was remarkable dry throughout. Bow pulpit 
stanchions an core from the tip of the bow to roughly 2' back will need to be 
re-cored and re-bedded...not a big deal as I have done much of this over the 
past 30 years.
The leading edge of the keel has some dings and the port side shows some 
indication of the faring material coming away from the keel joint (as far as I 
could tell), Inspection of the keel joints showed all is well (and my god there 
is no bilge on this boat!!!).  I'm thinking grinding and chipping it out, new 
faring material, barrier coat...etc... not too bad?
Her winches (Barstow) are a but sluggish and it feels like a lot of drag on 
them. Never have had to service winches before but have heard it can be a 
nightmare?? Just another consideration. Sail inventory and electronics, running 
lights and cabin lights all in good order. chainplates, toerail...all good!
The real bone of contention I suppose it the rudder. There is a noticeable 
crack at the top of the rudder which needs repair. The rudder is wet and there 
are something cracks on the bottom trailing edge that would need mending. Does 
this need a rebuild or can I get away with drilling, drying out, thickened 
epoxy resin in the holes and call it good? Is this a deal breaker?
Any suggestions about the rudder. I would hate to have to remove it and rebuild 
but I could if I had to.
Chris___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




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Stus-List wet rudder on 1974 Mk II 27'

[robert via CnC-List]

Chris:

Without me actually seeing the overall condition rudder, it is 
difficult, if not impossible, to provide you with advice on it. From 
your description, the rudder has cracks that required repairsnow how 
much water is in the rudder and has it negatively 
affected/rusted/corroded the metal inside.


If you want to be really sure about the rudder, engage someone that can 
advise you professionally.


My boat is a 1984it spent it's first 22 years in Lake Michigan 
.the original owner I bought it from had its rudder rebuilt because 
it rusted inside the rust got detected when the rudder got water in 
it (probably from the top of the rudder post, common issue) and froze 
over the winter cracking the rudder open.owner decided on a rebuild 
rather than a fix.good thing if not for him, for me!


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax< N.S.



On 2018-10-04 9:35 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List wrote:

Hey folks!

Recently took a three hour trip up the coast to look at a 1974 C&C 
MkII 27'. She is is reasonable condition and priced accordingly. Some 
of the issues are minor, a few of concern and I will ask your advice 
and opinion on those.


She has core issues, but really was remarkable dry throughout. Bow 
pulpit stanchions an core from the tip of the bow to roughly 2' back 
will need to be re-cored and re-bedded...not a big deal as I have done 
much of this over the past 30 years.


The leading edge of the keel has some dings and the port side shows 
some indication of the faring material coming away from the keel joint 
(as far as I could tell), Inspection of the keel joints showed all is 
well (and my god there is no bilge on this boat!!!).  I'm thinking 
grinding and chipping it out, new faring material, barrier 
coat...etc... not too bad?


Her winches (Barstow) are a but sluggish and it feels like a lot of 
drag on them. Never have had to service winches before but have heard 
it can be a nightmare?? Just another consideration. Sail inventory and 
electronics, running lights and cabin lights all in good order. 
chainplates, toerail...all good!


The real bone of contention I suppose it the rudder. There is a 
noticeable crack at the top of the rudder which needs repair. The 
rudder is wet and there are something cracks on the bottom trailing 
edge that would need mending. Does this need a rebuild or can I get 
away with drilling, drying out, thickened epoxy resin in the holes and 
call it good? Is this a deal breaker?


Any suggestions about the rudder. I would hate to have to remove it 
and rebuild but I could if I had to.


Chris


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Composting head in 33-2?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

The 12 Gallon was immediately in front of the Head, on the side, so, 
Asymmetrical.
I replaced it with a 39 Gallon Symmetrical Kracor that fit nearly perfectly in 
the bow under the V Berth.

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2018 9:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Composting head in 33-2?

What did you replace it with?

-Original Message- 
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2018 5:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Composting head in 33-2?

I have a 12 Gallon holding tank I took out of my 39 several years ago, along 
with some pump, maybe macerator, etc. if anyone is interested. Cannot 
guarentte the electiical parts work, but they did when I removed them.

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2018 12:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: kasel...@q.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Composting head in 33-2?

Dave.
I love your question and look forward to responses. We, on our 33-1 are 
looking at the same issue. In our case we have had no real holding tank (a 6 
gallon job which was never used) but have used an electro-scan Type 1 Marine 
Sanitation Device. As Puget Sound in now a no discharge zone we need to 
choose our next system. The composting head sounds like an interesting 
option but I too would like to here what others have experienced. They are 
not cheap but neither is a custom made holding tank. I’ve looked at the many 
prefabricated tanks and have not found one which would fit our situation.
Dave.
SLY
1975 C&C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 29, 2018, at 11:40 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>
> Has anyone installed a composting head in a 33 or similar?
> Have been contemplating replacement of my stench-impregnated holding tank 
> and hoses and it was suggested I look at a composting head instead.
> Very tempting for many reasons, plus a huge gain in interior space below 
> the v-berth.
> my only concern is size of the unit itself and I wonder  if anyone has 
> already been down this road.   Any thoughts or guidance?
> Thanks!
> Dave - windstar 33-2
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>


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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Stus-List Navtec Backstay (IA-10) - Rebuild or Replacement?

[Thomas Delaney via CnC-List]

Hi Listers,

My backstay adjuster is losing all tension if I leave it set below ~1,000
lbs for a few days. It holds fine when I'm onboard and sailing, it seems to
happen overnight, when the boat is on the mooring. The adjuster is an old
Navtec IA-10 unit. There is no noticeable fluid leaking from either end of
the adjuster and the piston is in good shape with no nicks or scratches.

Can anyone suggest a rigger/hydraulic repair shop in the NYC area that
could handle rebuilding it? Or is the unit so old that I should consider
replacing it with a new hydraulic adjuster or some sort of cascading block
contraption?

The boat is primarily raced around the buoys, so being able to reproduce
settings quickly and accurately is the most important feature for me.

Thanks,
Tom

Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY
-- 
---
Thomas C. Delaney
917-337-5524
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Stus-List Refinishing the stairs on C&C 34

[DON JONSSON via CnC-List]

Hi

I'm thinking about refinishing the stairs on our C&C 34.  Wondering if they are 
glued as well as screwed together.  Does anyone know?  

Thanks
Don
Andante, Victoria


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Re: Stus-List Navtec Backstay (IA-10) - Rebuild or Replacement?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I use Lew Townsend in Seattle for my hydraulic repairs. You may not want to
send your unit to him, but if you call him, he can advise you. His number
is: 206-935-4678.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Oct 4, 2018 at 7:45 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Listers,
>
> My backstay adjuster is losing all tension if I leave it set below ~1,000
> lbs for a few days. It holds fine when I'm onboard and sailing, it seems to
> happen overnight, when the boat is on the mooring. The adjuster is an old
> Navtec IA-10 unit. There is no noticeable fluid leaking from either end of
> the adjuster and the piston is in good shape with no nicks or scratches.
>
> Can anyone suggest a rigger/hydraulic repair shop in the NYC area that
> could handle rebuilding it? Or is the unit so old that I should consider
> replacing it with a new hydraulic adjuster or some sort of cascading block
> contraption?
>
> The boat is primarily raced around the buoys, so being able to reproduce
> settings quickly and accurately is the most important feature for me.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
> Snow Goose
> 35-1
> City Island, NY
> --
> ---
> Thomas C. Delaney
> 917-337-5524
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=
> PZeT3hqaxVOwk6jOd5OcIyqmlfqhhmF0tuJ7zTRTF_w&s=Ji-
> u1Tjoc1i3tz3vgsTv9pZi1svxS3HvRn7lq92q3lc&e=
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Navtec Backstay (IA-10) - Rebuild or Replacement?

[David via CnC-List]

Tom...find a hydraulic shop for trucks.  Navtec guys are 4x the cost and in my 
case, incompetent.  Construction guys don't do well with incompetent.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2018 11:05:29 AM
To: C&C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List Navtec Backstay (IA-10) - Rebuild or Replacement?

I use Lew Townsend in Seattle for my hydraulic repairs. You may not want to 
send your unit to him, but if you call him, he can advise you. His number is: 
206-935-4678.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Oct 4, 2018 at 7:45 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Listers,

My backstay adjuster is losing all tension if I leave it set below ~1,000 lbs 
for a few days. It holds fine when I'm onboard and sailing, it seems to happen 
overnight, when the boat is on the mooring. The adjuster is an old Navtec IA-10 
unit. There is no noticeable fluid leaking from either end of the adjuster and 
the piston is in good shape with no nicks or scratches.

Can anyone suggest a rigger/hydraulic repair shop in the NYC area that could 
handle rebuilding it? Or is the unit so old that I should consider replacing it 
with a new hydraulic adjuster or some sort of cascading block contraption?

The boat is primarily raced around the buoys, so being able to reproduce 
settings quickly and accurately is the most important feature for me.

Thanks,
Tom

Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY
--
---
Thomas C. Delaney
917-337-5524

___

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Navtec Backstay (IA-10) - Rebuild or Replacement?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

This!
When I needed autopilot cylinders fixed and hoses made, I looked up 
"hydraulics" in the yellow pages, NOT "marine autopilot hydraulic hose maker".
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2018 11:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Navtec Backstay (IA-10) - Rebuild or 
Replacement?

Tom...find a hydraulic shop for trucks.  Navtec guys are 4x the cost and in my 
case, incompetent.  Construction guys don't do well with incompetent.
>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2018 11:05:29 AM
To: C&C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List Navtec Backstay (IA-10) - Rebuild or Replacement?

I use Lew Townsend in Seattle for my hydraulic repairs. You may not want to 
send your unit to him, but if you call him, he can advise you. His number is: 
206-935-4678.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Oct 4, 2018 at 7:45 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Listers,

My backstay adjuster is losing all tension if I leave it set below ~1,000 lbs 
for a few days. It holds fine when I'm onboard and sailing, it seems to happen 
overnight, when the boat is on the mooring. The adjuster is an old Navtec IA-10 
unit. There is no noticeable fluid leaking from either end of the adjuster and 
the piston is in good shape with no nicks or scratches.

Can anyone suggest a rigger/hydraulic repair shop in the NYC area that could 
handle rebuilding it? Or is the unit so old that I should consider replacing it 
with a new hydraulic adjuster or some sort of cascading block contraption?

The boat is primarily raced around the buoys, so being able to reproduce 
settings quickly and accurately is the most important feature for me.

Thanks,
Tom

Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY
--
---
Thomas C. Delaney
917-337-5524

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing the stairs on C&C 34

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

My C&C stars were painted—so I repainted them.  Looks great now!

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Oct 4, 2018, at 10:59 AM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi
> 
> I'm thinking about refinishing the stairs on our C&C 34.  Wondering if they 
> are glued as well as screwed together.  Does anyone know?  
> 
> Thanks
> Don
> Andante, Victoria
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing the stairs on C&C 34

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

When I took mine apat, I don't remember whether they were glued (I don't
think so), but they came apart pretty easily. I found the stairs too steep,
so I split the sides down the middle, added a piece of 1 x 6 teak in
between them, glued the pieces together using biscuits, and extended the
dados through the piece that I added. It's now a lot more comfortable going
up and down the stairs. I finished the stairs with Watco teak oil, and
added Treadmaster to make the steps less slippery.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Oct 4, 2018 at 9:06 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My C&C stars were painted—so I repainted them.  Looks great now!
>
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> > On Oct 4, 2018, at 10:59 AM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hi
> >
> > I'm thinking about refinishing the stairs on our C&C 34.  Wondering if
> they are glued as well as screwed together.  Does anyone know?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Don
> > Andante, Victoria
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwIGaQ&c=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=
> JwmJIAt02pBsozlbYiiKpYZrY8yTTkNuRcyrwFTraT4&s=lABc2zTL7lwQ_
> mSZihwlaxCbe4dY4Wz_ZMm5H_oYP8s&e=
> >
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwIGaQ&c=
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> JwmJIAt02pBsozlbYiiKpYZrY8yTTkNuRcyrwFTraT4&s=lABc2zTL7lwQ_
> mSZihwlaxCbe4dY4Wz_ZMm5H_oYP8s&e=
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Navtec Backstay (IA-10) - Rebuild or Replacement?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I just had mine rebuilt by a Navtec shop in Texas.  It now has a very slow
leak.  To echo what many have said, the so-called Navtec shops don't seem
to be able to competently rebuild them.  They're expensive.

The ONLY Navtec guy that competently rebuilds them is Lew Townsend in
Seattle.  I wanted to send mine to him but he was going on vacation.  I
should have waited.

I just bled mine, put some tension on it and took a picture.  When I come
back to the boat in a few days, I'll see if it has eased.  If so, I'll take
another picture and start the process of dealing with the shop that
"rebuilt" it.  In the end, It will probably go to Lew Townsend and I'll end
up eating the $$ I spent on the other shop.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Oct 4, 2018, 9:46 AM Thomas Delaney via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Listers,
>
> My backstay adjuster is losing all tension if I leave it set below ~1,000
> lbs for a few days. It holds fine when I'm onboard and sailing, it seems to
> happen overnight, when the boat is on the mooring. The adjuster is an old
> Navtec IA-10 unit. There is no noticeable fluid leaking from either end of
> the adjuster and the piston is in good shape with no nicks or scratches.
>
> Can anyone suggest a rigger/hydraulic repair shop in the NYC area that
> could handle rebuilding it? Or is the unit so old that I should consider
> replacing it with a new hydraulic adjuster or some sort of cascading block
> contraption?
>
> The boat is primarily raced around the buoys, so being able to reproduce
> settings quickly and accurately is the most important feature for me.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
> Snow Goose
> 35-1
> City Island, NY
> --
> ---
> Thomas C. Delaney
> 917-337-5524
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing the stairs on C&C 34

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Alan: I am having trouble visualizing the steps being "too steep"  do you have 
a photo or can you help describe what you did to make them less steep?  I 
always figured that the steps were generic to all of the C&C models... could 
they be different based upon each boat? Thanks
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 602.5
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
To: C&C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Sent: Thu, Oct 4, 2018 12:17 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing the stairs on C&C 34

When I took mine apat, I don't remember whether they were glued (I don't think 
so), but they came apart pretty easily. I found the stairs too steep, so I 
split the sides down the middle, added a piece of 1 x 6 teak in between them, 
glued the pieces together using biscuits, and extended the dados through the 
piece that I added. It's now a lot more comfortable going up and down the 
stairs. I finished the stairs with Watco teak oil, and added Treadmaster to 
make the steps less slippery.

Alan Bergen35 Mk III ThirstyRose City YCPortland, OR


On Thu, Oct 4, 2018 at 9:06 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
 wrote:

My C&C stars were painted—so I repainted them.  Looks great now!

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Oct 4, 2018, at 10:59 AM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi
> 
> I'm thinking about refinishing the stairs on our C&C 34.  Wondering if they 
> are glued as well as screwed together.  Does anyone know?  
> 
> Thanks
> Don
> Andante, Victoria
> 
> 
> __ _
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint. 
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www. paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwIGaQ& c= 
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN 0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r= 
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f 1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m= 
> JwmJIAt02pBsozlbYiiKpYZrY8yTTk NuRcyrwFTraT4&s=lABc2zTL7lwQ_ 
> mSZihwlaxCbe4dY4Wz_ZMm5H_ oYP8s&e=
> 

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0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r= 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f 1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m= 
JwmJIAt02pBsozlbYiiKpYZrY8yTTk NuRcyrwFTraT4&s=lABc2zTL7lwQ_ 
mSZihwlaxCbe4dY4Wz_ZMm5H_ oYP8s&e=


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Re: Stus-List Refinishing the stairs on C&C 34

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

By adding a piece of 1 x 6 teak, it extended the bottom of the stairs
further out (forward) by 5 1/2 inches. I'll be at the boat today and take
some pictures.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Oct 4, 2018 at 9:43 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Alan: I am having trouble visualizing the steps being "too steep"  do you
> have a photo or can you help describe what you did to make them less
> steep?  I always figured that the steps were generic to all of the C&C
> models... could they be different based upon each boat? Thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 602.5
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> To: C&C 
> Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
> Sent: Thu, Oct 4, 2018 12:17 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing the stairs on C&C 34
>
> When I took mine apat, I don't remember whether they were glued (I don't
> think so), but they came apart pretty easily. I found the stairs too steep,
> so I split the sides down the middle, added a piece of 1 x 6 teak in
> between them, glued the pieces together using biscuits, and extended the
> dados through the piece that I added. It's now a lot more comfortable going
> up and down the stairs. I finished the stairs with Watco teak oil, and
> added Treadmaster to make the steps less slippery.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 4, 2018 at 9:06 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My C&C stars were painted—so I repainted them.  Looks great now!
>
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> 
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> > On Oct 4, 2018, at 10:59 AM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hi
> >
> > I'm thinking about refinishing the stairs on our C&C 34.  Wondering if
> they are glued as well as screwed together.  Does anyone know?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Don
> > Andante, Victoria
> >
> >
> > __ _
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www. paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwIGaQ& c=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN 0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f 1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=
> JwmJIAt02pBsozlbYiiKpYZrY8yTTk NuRcyrwFTraT4&s=lABc2zTL7lwQ_
> mSZihwlaxCbe4dY4Wz_ZMm5H_ oYP8s&e=
> 
>
> >
>
> __ _
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
>
> https://urldefense.proofpoint. com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwIGaQ& c= clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r= 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f 1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=
> JwmJIAt02pBsozlbYiiKpYZrY8yTTk NuRcyrwFTraT4&s=lABc2zTL7lwQ_
> mSZihwlaxCbe4dY4Wz_ZMm5H_ oYP8s&e=
> 
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H

Stus-List Winter cover frame - Frame Maker Clamps

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

Have been surfing for an affordable way to build a better winter frame, came 
across framemakerclamps.com. Anyone have any experience with these clamps? 
Frame is built with 3/4 inch EMT, adjustable angle cross and tee clamps, looks 
pretty good in the pictures.
Thoughts appreciated.
Brad
"Pulse" 1985 C&C 33/2
Lake Huron


Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
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Re: Stus-List Winter cover frame - Frame Maker Clamps

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I used the Framemaker system to make a frame for my C&C 34 and the frame worked 
great.  The problem I had was getting tarps in the right size and in place and 
tied down to cover the boat adequately and not abuse the paint with rope burns. 
 As a result of that problem, I had a custom cover made (The Canvas Store) for 
my current boat that fits over the rig and ties to the toe rail with the mast 
up and have been been even happier with that setup.  I have used the new cover 
for 5 winters and it is still going strong.  Dave


> On Oct 4, 2018, at 1:08 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Have been surfing for an affordable way to build a better winter frame, came 
> across framemakerclamps.com. Anyone have any experience with these clamps? 
> Frame is built with 3/4 inch EMT, adjustable angle cross and tee clamps, 
> looks pretty good in the pictures.
> Thoughts appreciated.
> Brad
> "Pulse" 1985 C&C 33/2
> Lake Huron
> 
> 
> Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List wet rudder on 1974 Mk II 27'

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

You might want to contact Foss Foam to determine the cost of having a new 
rudder made. https://www.newrudders.com/

We had a rudder damaged on our 1977 C&C 27 MKIII, and they made a great 
replacement.
Hope this helps, 
 Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Chris Graham via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chris Graham 
 Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2018 8:38 AM
 Subject: Stus-List wet rudder on 1974 Mk II 27'
   
Hey folks!
Recently took a three hour trip up the coast to look at a 1974 C&C MkII 27'. 
She is is reasonable condition and priced accordingly. Some of the issues are 
minor, a few of concern and I will ask your advice and opinion on those.
She has core issues, but really was remarkable dry throughout. Bow pulpit 
stanchions an core from the tip of the bow to roughly 2' back will need to be 
re-cored and re-bedded...not a big deal as I have done much of this over the 
past 30 years.
The leading edge of the keel has some dings and the port side shows some 
indication of the faring material coming away from the keel joint (as far as I 
could tell), Inspection of the keel joints showed all is well (and my god there 
is no bilge on this boat!!!).  I'm thinking grinding and chipping it out, new 
faring material, barrier coat...etc... not too bad?
Her winches (Barstow) are a but sluggish and it feels like a lot of drag on 
them. Never have had to service winches before but have heard it can be a 
nightmare?? Just another consideration. Sail inventory and electronics, running 
lights and cabin lights all in good order. chainplates, toerail...all good!
The real bone of contention I suppose it the rudder. There is a noticeable 
crack at the top of the rudder which needs repair. The rudder is wet and there 
are something cracks on the bottom trailing edge that would need mending. Does 
this need a rebuild or can I get away with drilling, drying out, thickened 
epoxy resin in the holes and call it good? Is this a deal breaker?
Any suggestions about the rudder. I would hate to have to remove it and rebuild 
but I could if I had to.
Chris___

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Re: Stus-List wet rudder on 1974 Mk II 27'

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

Thank you Bruce


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 4, 2018, 2:24 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

You might want to contact Foss Foam to determine the cost of having a new 
rudder made. https://www.newrudders.com/

We had a rudder damaged on our 1977 C&C 27 MKIII, and they made a great 
replacement.
Hope this helps, 
 Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


 From: Chris Graham via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chris Graham 
 Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2018 8:38 AM
 Subject: Stus-List wet rudder on 1974 Mk II 27'
  
Hey folks!
Recently took a three hour trip up the coast to look at a 1974 C&C MkII 27'. 
She is is reasonable condition and priced accordingly. Some of the issues are 
minor, a few of concern and I will ask your advice and opinion on those.
She has core issues, but really was remarkable dry throughout. Bow pulpit 
stanchions an core from the tip of the bow to roughly 2' back will need to be 
re-cored and re-bedded...not a big deal as I have done much of this over the 
past 30 years.
The leading edge of the keel has some dings and the port side shows some 
indication of the faring material coming away from the keel joint (as far as I 
could tell), Inspection of the keel joints showed all is well (and my god there 
is no bilge on this boat!!!).  I'm thinking grinding and chipping it out, new 
faring material, barrier coat...etc... not too bad?
Her winches (Barstow) are a but sluggish and it feels like a lot of drag on 
them. Never have had to service winches before but have heard it can be a 
nightmare?? Just another consideration. Sail inventory and electronics, running 
lights and cabin lights all in good order. chainplates, toerail...all good!
The real bone of contention I suppose it the rudder. There is a noticeable 
crack at the top of the rudder which needs repair. The rudder is wet and there 
are something cracks on the bottom trailing edge that would need mending. Does 
this need a rebuild or can I get away with drilling, drying out, thickened 
epoxy resin in the holes and call it good? Is this a deal breaker?
Any suggestions about the rudder. I would hate to have to remove it and rebuild 
but I could if I had to.
Chris___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



   ___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

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Re: Stus-List Winter cover frame - Frame Maker Clamps

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

I tried a different idea last year. I made 20 some brackets that just clipped 
onto the toe rail and each slot. A piece of tubing was welded straight up at 
that point. Then I bought several lengths of three quarter inch plastic 
conduit, put them over the upright tubing, straightforward up and then arched 
over the boat. In my case over the laid down mast. Worked pretty good. I would 
have to do a little more support for the snow that we had last December. 
Fortunately, I put it on just after that,  so it didn't crush the plastic 
tubing. 

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie 

On Thursday, October 4, 2018 Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Have been surfing for an affordable way to build a better winter frame, came 
across framemakerclamps.com. Anyone have any experience with these clamps? 
Frame is built with 3/4 inch EMT, adjustable angle cross and tee clamps, looks 
pretty good in the pictures.
Thoughts appreciated.
Brad
"Pulse" 1985 C&C 33/2
Lake Huron


Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
___

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Winter cover frame - Frame Maker Clamps

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I made a frame from pvc pipe and covered it with properly sized truck tarps.  
Definitely less expensive, and not too bad to assemble and disassemble/store, 
but it was more trouble than it’s worth.  I now use a service out of the 
Niagara Falls, NY area that built a metal frame and custom cover.  It was 
pricey up front but fits like a glove.  Now, for about $200 each fall, they 
show up, assemble the frame, and cover the boat.  For about the same price each 
spring, they show up, disassemble the frame, remove the cover, and store the 
frame and cover for the summer.  No more ladders, lugging heavy tarps around, 
repairing broken frame pieces, etc.  Definitely worth it in my view.

From: coltrek--- via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2018 2:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: colt...@verizon.net 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter cover frame - Frame Maker Clamps

I tried a different idea last year. I made 20 some brackets that just clipped 
onto the toe rail and each slot. A piece of tubing was welded straight up at 
that point. Then I bought several lengths of three quarter inch plastic 
conduit, put them over the upright tubing, straightforward up and then arched 
over the boat. In my case over the laid down mast. Worked pretty good. I would 
have to do a little more support for the snow that we had last December. 
Fortunately, I put it on just after that,  so it didn't crush the plastic 
tubing. 

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie 


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Re: Stus-List Winter cover frame - Frame Maker Clamps

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Matthew,

what company is that?  how far do they go?  where is your boat located?  
What was your upfront cost?


Danny

On 10/4/2018 3:09 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:
I made a frame from pvc pipe and covered it with properly sized truck 
tarps.  Definitely less expensive, and not too bad to assemble and 
disassemble/store, but it was more trouble than it’s worth.  I now use 
a service out of the Niagara Falls, NY area that built a metal frame 
and custom cover.  It was pricey up front but fits like a glove.  Now, 
for about $200 each fall, they show up, assemble the frame, and cover 
the boat.  For about the same price each spring, they show up, 
disassemble the frame, remove the cover, and store the frame and cover 
for the summer.  No more ladders, lugging heavy tarps around, 
repairing broken frame pieces, etc.  Definitely worth it in my view.

*From:* coltrek--- via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Thursday, October 04, 2018 2:48 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* colt...@verizon.net 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winter cover frame - Frame Maker Clamps

I tried a different idea last year. I made 20 some brackets that just 
clipped onto the toe rail and each slot. A piece of tubing was welded 
straight up at that point. Then I bought several lengths of three 
quarter inch plastic conduit, put them over the upright tubing, 
straightforward up and then arched over the boat. In my case over the 
laid down mast. Worked pretty good. I would have to do a little more 
support for the snow that we had last December. Fortunately, I put it 
on just after that, so it didn't crush the plastic tubing.


Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie



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Stus-List Refinishing the stairs on C&C 34

[John Christopher via CnC-List]

Alan,

I have the same problem (stairs too steep) on my LF 38 and was thinking or 
building new stairs completely (father in law has a professional shop with all 
the woodworking tools). Was thinking of building something more modern like the 
Beneteau where the sides of the stairs curve up, and having metal grab rails. I 
drew out the plans but it is an intensive project for 4-6 steps.

Your suggestion seems elegant and straight forward. Can you share a picture of 
the finished product?

/John

> On Oct 4, 2018, at 12:16 PM, ALAN BERGEN  wrote:
> 
> When I took mine apat, I don't remember whether they were glued (I don't 
> think so), but they came apart pretty easily. I found the stairs too steep, 
> so I split the sides down the middle, added a piece of 1 x 6 teak in between 
> them, glued the pieces together using biscuits, and extended the dados 
> through the piece that I added. It's now a lot more comfortable going up and 
> down the stairs. I finished the stairs with Watco teak oil, and added 
> Treadmaster to make the steps less slippery.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Oct 4, 2018 at 9:06 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> My C&C stars were painted—so I repainted them.  Looks great now!
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> s/v Rainy Days
>> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
>> (Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>> 
>> > On Oct 4, 2018, at 10:59 AM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List 
>> >  wrote:
>> > 
>> > Hi
>> > 
>> > I'm thinking about refinishing the stairs on our C&C 34.  Wondering if 
>> > they are glued as well as screwed together.  Does anyone know?  
>> > 
>> > Thanks
>> > Don
>> > Andante, Victoria
>> > 
>> > 
>> > ___
>> > 
>> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
>> > and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
>> > use PayPal to send contribution --   
>> > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwIGaQ&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=JwmJIAt02pBsozlbYiiKpYZrY8yTTkNuRcyrwFTraT4&s=lABc2zTL7lwQ_mSZihwlaxCbe4dY4Wz_ZMm5H_oYP8s&e=
>> > 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwIGaQ&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=JwmJIAt02pBsozlbYiiKpYZrY8yTTkNuRcyrwFTraT4&s=lABc2zTL7lwQ_mSZihwlaxCbe4dY4Wz_ZMm5H_oYP8s&e=
>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Winter cover frame - Frame Maker Clamps

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

https://www.customcoversandcanvas.com/

I don’t know how far they travel, but they come to Erie from the Niagara Falls, 
NY area (near Buffalo), which is about two hours by car.  As I recall, the 
upfront cost for my 42 was a little under $5K (installed).  I was a bit 
surprised because two friends who convinced me that it’s the way to go (Sabre 
42 and C&C 41) each paid about $1,000 less a couple years earlier.  The annual 
payment also increased from one payment of about $350 to two payments of a 
little over $200 each (fall and spring).  Nevertheless, I’m glad I made the 
up-front investment, and I’m really glad that my winter cover is now on 
autopilot.  The cover is great, and I’m getting too old for this DIY frame 
stuff.

From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2018 4:00 PM
To: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter cover frame - Frame Maker Clamps

Matthew,


what company is that?  how far do they go?  where is your boat located?  What 
was your upfront cost?

Danny


On 10/4/2018 3:09 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:

  I made a frame from pvc pipe and covered it with properly sized truck tarps.  
Definitely less expensive, and not too bad to assemble and disassemble/store, 
but it was more trouble than it’s worth.  I now use a service out of the 
Niagara Falls, NY area that built a metal frame and custom cover.  It was 
pricey up front but fits like a glove.  Now, for about $200 each fall, they 
show up, assemble the frame, and cover the boat.  For about the same price each 
spring, they show up, disassemble the frame, remove the cover, and store the 
frame and cover for the summer.  No more ladders, lugging heavy tarps around, 
repairing broken frame pieces, etc.  Definitely worth it in my view.

  From: coltrek--- via CnC-List 
  Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2018 2:48 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: colt...@verizon.net 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter cover frame - Frame Maker Clamps

  I tried a different idea last year. I made 20 some brackets that just clipped 
onto the toe rail and each slot. A piece of tubing was welded straight up at 
that point. Then I bought several lengths of three quarter inch plastic 
conduit, put them over the upright tubing, straightforward up and then arched 
over the boat. In my case over the laid down mast. Worked pretty good. I would 
have to do a little more support for the snow that we had last December. 
Fortunately, I put it on just after that,  so it didn't crush the plastic 
tubing. 

  Bill Coleman
  C&C 39 Erie 




   
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing the stairs on C&C 34

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

A photo of one of my 42 Custom sister ships shows a completely different stair 
arrangement than on my boat.  My boat has steep stairs similar to a 34 (but 
better).  The sister ship stairs are integral to a drawer cabinet that sits in 
front of the engine access panel.  They look less steep, but it must be more 
difficult to access the engine.   

From: John Christopher via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2018 4:11 PM
To: ALAN BERGEN 
Cc: John Christopher ; C&C 
Subject: Stus-List Refinishing the stairs on C&C 34

Alan, 

I have the same problem (stairs too steep) on my LF 38 and was thinking or 
building new stairs completely (father in law has a professional shop with all 
the woodworking tools). Was thinking of building something more modern like the 
Beneteau where the sides of the stairs curve up, and having metal grab rails. I 
drew out the plans but it is an intensive project for 4-6 steps.

Your suggestion seems elegant and straight forward. Can you share a picture of 
the finished product?

/John

On Oct 4, 2018, at 12:16 PM, ALAN BERGEN  wrote:


  When I took mine apat, I don't remember whether they were glued (I don't 
think so), but they came apart pretty easily. I found the stairs too steep, so 
I split the sides down the middle, added a piece of 1 x 6 teak in between them, 
glued the pieces together using biscuits, and extended the dados through the 
piece that I added. It's now a lot more comfortable going up and down the 
stairs. I finished the stairs with Watco teak oil, and added Treadmaster to 
make the steps less slippery.


  Alan Bergen
  35 Mk III Thirsty
  Rose City YC
  Portland, OR



  On Thu, Oct 4, 2018 at 9:06 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
 wrote:

My C&C stars were painted—so I repainted them.  Looks great now!

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Oct 4, 2018, at 10:59 AM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List 
 wrote:
> 
> Hi
> 
> I'm thinking about refinishing the stairs on our C&C 34.  Wondering if 
they are glued as well as screwed together.  Does anyone know?  
> 
> Thanks
> Don
> Andante, Victoria
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwIGaQ&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=JwmJIAt02pBsozlbYiiKpYZrY8yTTkNuRcyrwFTraT4&s=lABc2zTL7lwQ_mSZihwlaxCbe4dY4Wz_ZMm5H_oYP8s&e=
> 

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Re: Stus-List Winter cover frame - Frame Maker Clamps

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I’m in Erie, PA, by the way.

From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2018 4:00 PM
To: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter cover frame - Frame Maker Clamps

Matthew,


what company is that?  how far do they go?  where is your boat located?  What 
was your upfront cost?

Danny


On 10/4/2018 3:09 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:

  I made a frame from pvc pipe and covered it with properly sized truck tarps.  
Definitely less expensive, and not too bad to assemble and disassemble/store, 
but it was more trouble than it’s worth.  I now use a service out of the 
Niagara Falls, NY area that built a metal frame and custom cover.  It was 
pricey up front but fits like a glove.  Now, for about $200 each fall, they 
show up, assemble the frame, and cover the boat.  For about the same price each 
spring, they show up, disassemble the frame, remove the cover, and store the 
frame and cover for the summer.  No more ladders, lugging heavy tarps around, 
repairing broken frame pieces, etc.  Definitely worth it in my view.

  From: coltrek--- via CnC-List 
  Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2018 2:48 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: colt...@verizon.net 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter cover frame - Frame Maker Clamps

  I tried a different idea last year. I made 20 some brackets that just clipped 
onto the toe rail and each slot. A piece of tubing was welded straight up at 
that point. Then I bought several lengths of three quarter inch plastic 
conduit, put them over the upright tubing, straightforward up and then arched 
over the boat. In my case over the laid down mast. Worked pretty good. I would 
have to do a little more support for the snow that we had last December. 
Fortunately, I put it on just after that,  so it didn't crush the plastic 
tubing. 

  Bill Coleman
  C&C 39 Erie 




   
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Re: Stus-List Winter cover frame - Frame Maker Clamps

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

That conduit is pretty strong. I use it for my cover. I also use 1.5" black 
water pipe. The biggest issue is to make sure that the supports don't bend 
sideways (leaving much bigger gap between them).

Marek
Ottawa, ON
(we do have a lot of snow, but of course, not as much as Earie, PA)



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


 Original message 
From: coltrek--- via CnC-List 
Date: 2018-10-04 14:49 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: colt...@verizon.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter cover frame - Frame Maker Clamps


I tried a different idea last year. I made 20 some brackets that just clipped 
onto the toe rail and each slot. A piece of tubing was welded straight up at 
that point. Then I bought several lengths of three quarter inch plastic 
conduit, put them over the upright tubing, straightforward up and then arched 
over the boat. In my case over the laid down mast. Worked pretty good. I would 
have to do a little more support for the snow that we had last December. 
Fortunately, I put it on just after that,  so it didn't crush the plastic 
tubing.

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie



On Thursday, October 4, 2018 Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Have been surfing for an affordable way to build a better winter frame, came 
across framemakerclamps.com. Anyone have any experience with these clamps? 
Frame is built with 3/4 inch EMT, adjustable angle cross and tee clamps, looks 
pretty good in the pictures.
Thoughts appreciated.
Brad
"Pulse" 1985 C&C 33/2
Lake Huron


Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

This is an update to the spread sheet (attached) from the replies to 
Jack's request, in which I have added emails addresses.


Please let me know by email, if you want to make corrections to the list.

Best regards,

Don Kern
Fireball - 12708
1974 C&C 35 Mk2
Bristol, RI 02809



C&C ownership short.xlsx
Description: MS-Excel 2007 spreadsheet
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

You can add another C&C 27 Mk III, Firefly,  (691) which I bought in Kingston 
On in 1998. Sailed and raced her with friends until about 2014. Took on 
partners to share the load and now they basically run the boat - I have 
visiting rights.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 4, 2018, at 7:09 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> This is an update to the spread sheet (attached) from the replies to Jack's 
> request, in which I have added emails addresses.
> 
> Please let me know by email, if you want to make corrections to the list.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Don Kern
> Fireball - 12708
> 1974 C&C 35 Mk2
> Bristol, RI 02809
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 

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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Thomas Perison via CnC-List]

Hey apologies for new topic - but anyone at the Annapolis Sailboat Show this 
week/end?  
I sailed Therapy up the Bay and here for a couple days.
R
Tom

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 4, 2018, at 8:38 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> You can add another C&C 27 Mk III, Firefly,  (691) which I bought in Kingston 
> On in 1998. Sailed and raced her with friends until about 2014. Took on 
> partners to share the load and now they basically run the boat - I have 
> visiting rights.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 4, 2018, at 7:09 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> This is an update to the spread sheet (attached) from the replies to Jack's 
>> request, in which I have added emails addresses.
>> 
>> Please let me know by email, if you want to make corrections to the list.
>> 
>> Best regards,
>> 
>> Don Kern
>> Fireball - 12708
>> 1974 C&C 35 Mk2
>> Bristol, RI 02809
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   
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>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Mold prevention

[Anne Tichborne via CnC-List]

Tea Tree Oil in solution - 2 Oz / L
Cleans & prevents it returning

On Sun, Sep 30, 2018, 06:59 David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Boat is ventilated ( not dehumified) and bulkheads clean but we get this
> light patina of easily removed mold on a regular basis.   Is there a
> solution to prevent regrowth or is that the TSP bleach water solution to
> clean same.
>
>
>
>
> From my Android
>
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>
>
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