Stus-List *Reminder #1* October 26, 27, 28 - 2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C Rendezvous

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Hey folks,

This is a friendly reminder for the rendezvous deadline to register with
the Annapolis Harbor master (Beth) for a slip.  She asked that we get as
many registrations in by March 31st as possible.  It was brought to my
attention that moorings cannot be reserved. When I checked with Beth, she
confirmed that moorings are exclusively first come first served but also
said that finding a mooring shouldn't be a problem at that time of year.

Still looking for anyone interested in arranging extracurricular
activities.  Food, walking tours, swag, etc.

http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/2018-mid-atlantic-c-rendezvous.html?m=1


All the best,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List *Reminder #1* October 26, 27, 28 - 2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C Rendezvous

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Josh,

I have some corporate swag that I can send - pens and collapsable nylon 
backpacks. Please let me know off-list how many you need and an address to send 
them to before April 7.

Looks like I won’t be able to attend the rendezvous due to business travel, but 
happy to help along the way. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






> On Mar 16, 2018, at 9:24 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey folks, 
> 
> This is a friendly reminder for the rendezvous deadline to register with the 
> Annapolis Harbor master (Beth) for a slip.  She asked that we get as many 
> registrations in by March 31st as possible.  It was brought to my attention 
> that moorings cannot be reserved. When I checked with Beth, she confirmed 
> that moorings are exclusively first come first served but also said that 
> finding a mooring shouldn't be a problem at that time of year.
> 
> Still looking for anyone interested in arranging extracurricular activities.  
> Food, walking tours, swag, etc.
> 
> http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/2018-mid-atlantic-c-rendezvous.html?m=1 
> 
> 
> 
> All the best, 
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

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Stus-List Head Replacement

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

I’m looking to replace my Jabsco manual electric-conversion head on my C&C 37+ 
to a better electric one. While Jabsco makes a “Lite” version which has the 
same mounting holes and same connections as the one I’m replacing, I’d like to 
consider other manufacturers as well. 

Has anyone done this? How did you mount it to the floor? There is no access 
underneath there. Any insights welcome to help me save costs and avoid a, 
pardon the pun, crappy job. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






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Re: Stus-List Head Replacement

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Edd.

Hanger bolts for mounting:

https://www.boltdepot.com/Hanger_bolts_Stainless_steel_18-8.aspx

Can't help on the head selection - I'm a manual kind of guy.

Joel

On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 10:13 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I’m looking to replace my Jabsco manual electric-conversion head on my C&C
> 37+ to a better electric one. While Jabsco makes a “Lite” version which has
> the same mounting holes and same connections as the one I’m replacing, I’d
> like to consider other manufacturers as well.
>
> Has anyone done this? How did you mount it to the floor? There is no
> access underneath there. Any insights welcome to help me save costs and
> avoid a, pardon the pun, crappy job.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Whisker pole chock mast mount - update

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Thought y'all might want an update on my whisker pole mast chock mount.

I initially was trying to find a carpenter or wood worker with bandsaw or
scroll saw and a spindle sander that might have been able to make this
piece quickly and easily.  I was having a hard time articulating to people
exactly what I envisioned so I attempted to draw an example in 3D on
SketchUP.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=124KvsCtLJo2a8On7C41z0oSFVj0iHb-l

I ended up taking my plan to a machinist who advised that he did not like
the idea of using starboard or layering pieces together.  He suggested
solid PTFE (Teflon).  With his confidence and knowledge of materials I
accepted his advice and agreed to have him make it.  By the end of the week
he contacted me and said that it was done.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1yylCrDkRVBWhbmGsrh4ZdtouE-jUpLLb

I was extremely disappointed by the final outcome.  It was not as I had
designed and worse he made it out of white and then painted it.  I'm
concerned that any abrasion or hard impact will cause the paint to come off
reveling the dingy off-white base color.  He explained his own frustration
with the PTFE material, told me how he had spent upwards of 2 full days (16
hours @ $55) machining but was only charging for 1 day.  He even discounted
more than that for a total of $400.  $400!!!  I have enjoyed a good working
relationship with this machinist for some time now and he lives quite close
so... not wanting to destroy our relationship I begrudgingly pay him, but
not without first explaining my frustration.

I went home with a renewed motivation to make my own.  Borrowed a band saw
and bought a spindle sander.  The ~$100 Skill bandsaw is an absolute POS.
It was what I had available and fortunately was able to make due.  For
anyone in the market for a bandsaw, I would recommend avoiding it at all
costs.

http://a.co/9YKFSjf

As for the spindle/drum sander, it was absolutely awesome!  I can't say
enough about how well it worked.  I have never heard of the company WEN
before and was quite sceptical but since Amazon is an easy return, I didn't
really have much to fear.  Now I'm thinking that the WEN drill press is
next on my wish list.

http://a.co/0W0W8lY

The mounting bolts go through the top and bottom layers of the 5 layer
sandwich, the curvature of the mast holds each layer on centerline, and the
chock holds pressure on each of the five layers keeping them tight against
the mast.  There is no structural need to bond the layers together.  The
whole thing turned out quite to my satisfaction which really just added
salt to the wound of having had the other piece made by the machinist.
Here's the final product installed.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=102YSIYduLS_S_hxnp0bxKp1naJK1WCG1

Thanks to everybody who answered my questions along the way.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Fri, Feb 9, 2018, 7:20 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ok Guys,
>
> I've been test fitting the whisker pole and track extensions to the mast
> while it is pulled.  I need an extra section of track to get the inboard
> end of the pole high enough so that I can stow the pole on the mast.  I'm
> pretty much all set but I'm down to the chock which will hold the outboard
> end of the pole.  The chock has a flat base and needs to be mounted on the
> curved leading edge of the mast.
>
> I'm interested in the collective wisdom as to how to handle this situation.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Head Replacement

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Joel,

Thanks. What’s under there? A block of wood? 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 




> On Mar 16, 2018, at 10:17 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Edd.
> 
> Hanger bolts for mounting:
> 
> https://www.boltdepot.com/Hanger_bolts_Stainless_steel_18-8.aspx 
> 
> 
> Can't help on the head selection - I'm a manual kind of guy.
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 10:13 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Listers,
> 
> I’m looking to replace my Jabsco manual electric-conversion head on my C&C 
> 37+ to a better electric one. While Jabsco makes a “Lite” version which has 
> the same mounting holes and same connections as the one I’m replacing, I’d 
> like to consider other manufacturers as well. 
> 
> Has anyone done this? How did you mount it to the floor? There is no access 
> underneath there. Any insights welcome to help me save costs and avoid a, 
> pardon the pun, crappy job. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Whisker pole chock mast mount - update

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

What was the material you made it out of in the end?  Is it black
Starboard?  I missed that detail somehow.

The finished product looks great!

Ken H.

On 16 March 2018 at 11:38, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Thought y'all might want an update on my whisker pole mast chock mount.
>
> I initially was trying to find a carpenter or wood worker with bandsaw or
> scroll saw and a spindle sander that might have been able to make this
> piece quickly and easily.  I was having a hard time articulating to people
> exactly what I envisioned so I attempted to draw an example in 3D on
> SketchUP.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=124KvsCtLJo2a8On7C41z0oSFVj0iHb-l
>
> I ended up taking my plan to a machinist who advised that he did not like
> the idea of using starboard or layering pieces together.  He suggested
> solid PTFE (Teflon).  With his confidence and knowledge of materials I
> accepted his advice and agreed to have him make it.  By the end of the week
> he contacted me and said that it was done.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1yylCrDkRVBWhbmGsrh4ZdtouE-jUpLLb
>
> I was extremely disappointed by the final outcome.  It was not as I had
> designed and worse he made it out of white and then painted it.  I'm
> concerned that any abrasion or hard impact will cause the paint to come off
> reveling the dingy off-white base color.  He explained his own frustration
> with the PTFE material, told me how he had spent upwards of 2 full days (16
> hours @ $55) machining but was only charging for 1 day.  He even discounted
> more than that for a total of $400.  $400!!!  I have enjoyed a good
> working relationship with this machinist for some time now and he lives
> quite close so... not wanting to destroy our relationship I begrudgingly
> pay him, but not without first explaining my frustration.
>
> I went home with a renewed motivation to make my own.  Borrowed a band saw
> and bought a spindle sander.  The ~$100 Skill bandsaw is an absolute
> POS.  It was what I had available and fortunately was able to make due.
> For anyone in the market for a bandsaw, I would recommend avoiding it at
> all costs.
>
> http://a.co/9YKFSjf
>
> As for the spindle/drum sander, it was absolutely awesome!  I can't say
> enough about how well it worked.  I have never heard of the company WEN
> before and was quite sceptical but since Amazon is an easy return, I didn't
> really have much to fear.  Now I'm thinking that the WEN drill press is
> next on my wish list.
>
> http://a.co/0W0W8lY
>
> The mounting bolts go through the top and bottom layers of the 5 layer
> sandwich, the curvature of the mast holds each layer on centerline, and the
> chock holds pressure on each of the five layers keeping them tight against
> the mast.  There is no structural need to bond the layers together.  The
> whole thing turned out quite to my satisfaction which really just added
> salt to the wound of having had the other piece made by the machinist.
> Here's the final product installed.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=102YSIYduLS_S_hxnp0bxKp1naJK1WCG1
>
> Thanks to everybody who answered my questions along the way.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 9, 2018, 7:20 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Ok Guys,
>>
>> I've been test fitting the whisker pole and track extensions to the mast
>> while it is pulled.  I need an extra section of track to get the inboard
>> end of the pole high enough so that I can stow the pole on the mast.  I'm
>> pretty much all set but I'm down to the chock which will hold the outboard
>> end of the pole.  The chock has a flat base and needs to be mounted on the
>> curved leading edge of the mast.
>>
>> I'm interested in the collective wisdom as to how to handle this
>> situation.
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Head Replacement

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Edd,

Mine was mounted on plywood.

Joel

On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 10:40 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joel,
>
> Thanks. What’s under there? A block of wood?
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
> On Mar 16, 2018, at 10:17 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Edd.
>
> Hanger bolts for mounting:
>
> https://www.boltdepot.com/Hanger_bolts_Stainless_steel_18-8.aspx
>
> Can't help on the head selection - I'm a manual kind of guy.
>
> Joel
>
> On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 10:13 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> I’m looking to replace my Jabsco manual electric-conversion head on my
>> C&C 37+ to a better electric one. While Jabsco makes a “Lite” version which
>> has the same mounting holes and same connections as the one I’m replacing,
>> I’d like to consider other manufacturers as well.
>>
>> Has anyone done this? How did you mount it to the floor? There is no
>> access underneath there. Any insights welcome to help me save costs and
>> avoid a, pardon the pun, crappy job.
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Head Replacement

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I love my vacu-flush - that is, at least as much as an individual could
love a biological wasts receptical.  The PO installed it so I can't tell
you much about the challenges of installation.  What I CAN tell you is that
each flush is ~1 pint of fresh water meaning that the ~20 gallon holding
tank is good for ~150 flushes.

Many people live by the mantra that if it didn't come out of you then it
doesn't go in the head.  I've never had to follow that guidance and I've
never, ever had the head become clogged.  I've had conventional toilets
become clogged more often than the one on my boat though I'm not sure
feminine hygiene products would make it.  It flushes with water from your
freshwater tank so it does increase freshwater usage but the trade off is
that the head doesn't smell and you can go considerably longer between
pump-outs.  If you exceed 3 miles from shore I believe you can pump
overboard which is why the PO also installed a masserator pump.  My y-valve
no longer exists - just a thru-hull valve for the masserator pump
discharge.  There is a good amount of argument regarding the need to
restrain the handle but it seems the answer lies in the fact that 2 actions
are required to discharge overboard.  Open the valve AND operate the
masserator pump switch.  I've been voluntarily and unvoluntarily inspected
with no issue noted regarding the lack of a restraint on my thru-hull.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Fri, Mar 16, 2018, 10:13 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I’m looking to replace my Jabsco manual electric-conversion head on my C&C
> 37+ to a better electric one. While Jabsco makes a “Lite” version which has
> the same mounting holes and same connections as the one I’m replacing, I’d
> like to consider other manufacturers as well.
>
> Has anyone done this? How did you mount it to the floor? There is no
> access underneath there. Any insights welcome to help me save costs and
> avoid a, pardon the pun, crappy job.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Head Replacement

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Edd, 
More than likely its hollow under the head platform. What I have done on 
several boats is to tap the fiberglass for a 1/4-20 thread. I always prefer to 
tap instead using a coarse threaded sheet metal or wood type screw. Holds 
better with much less gelcoat chipping. I have used the Jabsco "Quiet Flush" 
heads with no problems for 10 years now.

Doug Allardyce 
C&C 35 III 
"BULLET" 

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Edd 
Schillay via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 9:13 AM
  To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
  Cc: Edd Schillay
  Subject: Stus-List Head Replacement


  Listers,


  I’m looking to replace my Jabsco manual electric-conversion head on my C&C 
37+ to a better electric one. While Jabsco makes a “Lite” version which has the 
same mounting holes and same connections as the one I’m replacing, I’d like to 
consider other manufacturers as well. 


  Has anyone done this? How did you mount it to the floor? There is no access 
underneath there. Any insights welcome to help me save costs and avoid a, 
pardon the pun, crappy job. 


  All the best,


  Edd




  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY 
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log










___

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Re: Stus-List Head Replacement

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Several years ago, I replaced the original W/C Head Mate with a Jabsco
Manual head. I'm happy with the product. I chose Jabsco in part because
several charters I have taken in the BVI, all the heads, both manual and
electric were Jabsco's. An earlier posting on this site suggested the
charter companies choice was directed by price. But I like to think that
serviceability is a key element to Jabscos being used. It is one aspect of
a charter which the company does not want to have to fix regularly or deal
with customer complaints. Plus parts are available on Amazon.

Ed Levert
C&C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 9:13 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I’m looking to replace my Jabsco manual electric-conversion head on my C&C
> 37+ to a better electric one. While Jabsco makes a “Lite” version which has
> the same mounting holes and same connections as the one I’m replacing, I’d
> like to consider other manufacturers as well.
>
> Has anyone done this? How did you mount it to the floor? There is no
> access underneath there. Any insights welcome to help me save costs and
> avoid a, pardon the pun, crappy job.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Head Replacement

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

On the new boat I have a new Jabsco Twist and Lock manual head going in
forward, and a Techma Easy fit electric head going in the aft head. It will
be set up to flush with either fresh or--when offshore--salt water. These
came well recommended by a pal who's an expert in that field.

Andy
formerly
C&C 40
Peregrine

now
Baltic 47
Masquerade

On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 11:10 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Several years ago, I replaced the original W/C Head Mate with a Jabsco
> Manual head. I'm happy with the product. I chose Jabsco in part because
> several charters I have taken in the BVI, all the heads, both manual and
> electric were Jabsco's. An earlier posting on this site suggested the
> charter companies choice was directed by price. But I like to think that
> serviceability is a key element to Jabscos being used. It is one aspect of
> a charter which the company does not want to have to fix regularly or deal
> with customer complaints. Plus parts are available on Amazon.
>
> Ed Levert
> C&C 34 Briar Patch
> New Orleans
>
> On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 9:13 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> I’m looking to replace my Jabsco manual electric-conversion head on my
>> C&C 37+ to a better electric one. While Jabsco makes a “Lite” version which
>> has the same mounting holes and same connections as the one I’m replacing,
>> I’d like to consider other manufacturers as well.
>>
>> Has anyone done this? How did you mount it to the floor? There is no
>> access underneath there. Any insights welcome to help me save costs and
>> avoid a, pardon the pun, crappy job.
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Head Replacement

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I think that the “common wisdom” is that Raritan PHII is the way to go, but it 
might be more pricey.

Check What Peggie Hall has to say on that.

Marek

From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 10:13
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-List Head Replacement

Listers,

I’m looking to replace my Jabsco manual electric-conversion head on my C&C 37+ 
to a better electric one. While Jabsco makes a “Lite” version which has the 
same mounting holes and same connections as the one I’m replacing, I’d like to 
consider other manufacturers as well.

Has anyone done this? How did you mount it to the floor? There is no access 
underneath there. Any insights welcome to help me save costs and avoid a, 
pardon the pun, crappy job.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
Log






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Re: Stus-List Whisker pole chock mast mount - update

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Thanks Ken!  I used black starboard.  1" thick.  12"x12" pieces are
available from McMaster-Carr for about $35.  Knowing that ultimately my
starting size would need to be roughly 5"x5"x2", I decided that a
12"x12"x1" piece was going to be the smallest usable and available size.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#9785T412

I started by cutting 5 pieces 6"x2" and stacked then together for a total
of 5x6x2.  I clamped them, applied masking tape, and traced the chock.  For
ease of managing them in the saw I cut the tape so that each layer could be
separated.  Used the saw to cut each piece a bit proud of the trace.  I
then reassembled (re-stacked) and finished the sides on the drum sander.  I
now had a 2" thick block that followed the footprint of the chock.

I carefully marked centerline before separating each layer again.  This
time I masked each layer on it's "inside" face - the face which originally
measured 6"x2".  On this face I carefully measured and traced the template
of the curvature of the mast on to the tape.  I then returned to the
bandsaw and cutout the curvature of the mast, again proud of the template.
Now back to the sander.  I started with the largest piece and was careful
to regularly check the fit to my template.  Once I had the first one done,
each of the successive pieces was checked to the template and to its
neighbors so that a smooth and even fit was accomplished.

A feather edge of flashing was left after all of this sanding so I
re-clamped and assembled the pieces and used the sander to dress everything
up.

Josh


On Fri, Mar 16, 2018, 10:49 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> What was the material you made it out of in the end?  Is it black
> Starboard?  I missed that detail somehow.
>
> The finished product looks great!
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 16 March 2018 at 11:38, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thought y'all might want an update on my whisker pole mast chock mount.
>>
>> I initially was trying to find a carpenter or wood worker with bandsaw or
>> scroll saw and a spindle sander that might have been able to make this
>> piece quickly and easily.  I was having a hard time articulating to people
>> exactly what I envisioned so I attempted to draw an example in 3D on
>> SketchUP.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=124KvsCtLJo2a8On7C41z0oSFVj0iHb-l
>>
>> I ended up taking my plan to a machinist who advised that he did not like
>> the idea of using starboard or layering pieces together.  He suggested
>> solid PTFE (Teflon).  With his confidence and knowledge of materials I
>> accepted his advice and agreed to have him make it.  By the end of the week
>> he contacted me and said that it was done.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1yylCrDkRVBWhbmGsrh4ZdtouE-jUpLLb
>>
>> I was extremely disappointed by the final outcome.  It was not as I had
>> designed and worse he made it out of white and then painted it.  I'm
>> concerned that any abrasion or hard impact will cause the paint to come off
>> reveling the dingy off-white base color.  He explained his own frustration
>> with the PTFE material, told me how he had spent upwards of 2 full days (16
>> hours @ $55) machining but was only charging for 1 day.  He even discounted
>> more than that for a total of $400.  $400!!!  I have enjoyed a good
>> working relationship with this machinist for some time now and he lives
>> quite close so... not wanting to destroy our relationship I begrudgingly
>> pay him, but not without first explaining my frustration.
>>
>> I went home with a renewed motivation to make my own.  Borrowed a band
>> saw and bought a spindle sander.  The ~$100 Skill bandsaw is an absolute
>> POS.  It was what I had available and fortunately was able to make due.
>> For anyone in the market for a bandsaw, I would recommend avoiding it at
>> all costs.
>>
>> http://a.co/9YKFSjf
>>
>> As for the spindle/drum sander, it was absolutely awesome!  I can't say
>> enough about how well it worked.  I have never heard of the company WEN
>> before and was quite sceptical but since Amazon is an easy return, I didn't
>> really have much to fear.  Now I'm thinking that the WEN drill press is
>> next on my wish list.
>>
>> http://a.co/0W0W8lY
>>
>> The mounting bolts go through the top and bottom layers of the 5 layer
>> sandwich, the curvature of the mast holds each layer on centerline, and the
>> chock holds pressure on each of the five layers keeping them tight against
>> the mast.  There is no structural need to bond the layers together.  The
>> whole thing turned out quite to my satisfaction which really just added
>> salt to the wound of having had the other piece made by the machinist.
>> Here's the final product installed.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=102YSIYduLS_S_hxnp0bxKp1naJK1WCG1
>>
>> Thanks to everybody who answered my questions along the way.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 9, 2018, 7

Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I'm going to try to build a hard bimini.  The plan is to trace the shape of
the frame onto pieces of 2x6, cut them to shape and then screw a piece of
cheap plywood to the 2x6s to have the right shape.  I'm looking for
something flexible that will give the underside a nice smooth finish than
can be expoyed to fiberglass and painted.  The rest will be glass mat, foam
core, epoxy, more mat etc.  I know I could just add more epoxy and sand it,
but I rather avoid all that labor.

Any suggestions on materials for the finished underside?

Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Joel — how about fiberglass wall panel material?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Plastic-Panel-63003/202090190 


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 16, 2018, at 10:47 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm going to try to build a hard bimini.  The plan is to trace the shape of 
> the frame onto pieces of 2x6, cut them to shape and then screw a piece of 
> cheap plywood to the 2x6s to have the right shape.  I'm looking for something 
> flexible that will give the underside a nice smooth finish than can be 
> expoyed to fiberglass and painted.  The rest will be glass mat, foam core, 
> epoxy, more mat etc.  I know I could just add more epoxy and sand it, but I 
> rather avoid all that labor.
> 
> Any suggestions on materials for the finished underside?  
> 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Fred,

I'll take a look.  I know one side is textured, but that could be side that
we bond to if we just use more epoxy.

Joel

On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 11:56 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joel — how about fiberglass wall panel material?
>
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Plastic-
> Panel-63003/202090190
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Mar 16, 2018, at 10:47 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I'm going to try to build a hard bimini.  The plan is to trace the shape
> of the frame onto pieces of 2x6, cut them to shape and then screw a piece
> of cheap plywood to the 2x6s to have the right shape.  I'm looking for
> something flexible that will give the underside a nice smooth finish than
> can be expoyed to fiberglass and painted.  The rest will be glass mat, foam
> core, epoxy, more mat etc.  I know I could just add more epoxy and sand it,
> but I rather avoid all that labor.
>
> Any suggestions on materials for the finished underside?
>
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Joel, did you think about just using King Starboard for the entire project?

I had my dodger made by a company who used 1/2 thick starboard.  They
plastic welded a track for the canvas sides and windows.  Someone was
recently posting about a similar company who IIRC was quoting $1500 for a
bimini.

Just a thought,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Fri, Mar 16, 2018, 11:48 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm going to try to build a hard bimini.  The plan is to trace the shape
> of the frame onto pieces of 2x6, cut them to shape and then screw a piece
> of cheap plywood to the 2x6s to have the right shape.  I'm looking for
> something flexible that will give the underside a nice smooth finish than
> can be expoyed to fiberglass and painted.  The rest will be glass mat, foam
> core, epoxy, more mat etc.  I know I could just add more epoxy and sand it,
> but I rather avoid all that labor.
>
> Any suggestions on materials for the finished underside?
>
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Hi Joel

I tried that a few years ago with my dodger.  I used the old frame for the 
shape and FRP from Home Depot.  Tried laminating two pieces of FRP together.  
It wasn’t rigid enough.  Also someone told me they are made with polyester 
resin not epoxy.  

If you google hard dodger I’m sure there will be lots of sites showing what has 
been done.

Good luck keep us posted.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Mar 16, 2018, at 11:47 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm going to try to build a hard bimini.  The plan is to trace the shape of 
> the frame onto pieces of 2x6, cut them to shape and then screw a piece of 
> cheap plywood to the 2x6s to have the right shape.  I'm looking for something 
> flexible that will give the underside a nice smooth finish than can be 
> expoyed to fiberglass and painted.  The rest will be glass mat, foam core, 
> epoxy, more mat etc.  I know I could just add more epoxy and sand it, but I 
> rather avoid all that labor.
> 
> Any suggestions on materials for the finished underside?  
> 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Head Replacement

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Wisdom aside (perhaps literally), I went with a fancy Planus push-button model 
that received high ratings from Practical Sailor a few years ago.  A little 
pricey, but the ladies like the ease of operation.  I haven’t figured out what 
I’ll do if the unit malfunctions while at sea, but fortunately this hasn’t 
happened (four years and counting).  It requires a remarkably large electric 
service line as it draws something like 60 amps for a split second when you 
push the button.  It is mounted on the same platform that came with the boat, 
which does not provide a lot of space (but is much better than the 34).

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 11:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Replacement

I think that the “common wisdom” is that Raritan PHII is the way to go, but it 
might be more pricey.

Check What Peggie Hall has to say on that.

Marek

From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 10:13
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List Head Replacement

Listers, 

I’m looking to replace my Jabsco manual electric-conversion head on my C&C 37+ 
to a better electric one. While Jabsco makes a “Lite” version which has the 
same mounting holes and same connections as the one I’m replacing, I’d like to 
consider other manufacturers as well. 

Has anyone done this? How did you mount it to the floor? There is no access 
underneath there. Any insights welcome to help me save costs and avoid a, 
pardon the pun, crappy job. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log










___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Josh,

I did, but I was concerned about being able to bend it evenly.  There is a
slight bend in the center and I want to be able to bend the edges.
A former neighbor had one made from Starboard, but I don't know who made it.

Joel

On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 12:04 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joel, did you think about just using King Starboard for the entire project?
>
> I had my dodger made by a company who used 1/2 thick starboard.  They
> plastic welded a track for the canvas sides and windows.  Someone was
> recently posting about a similar company who IIRC was quoting $1500 for a
> bimini.
>
> Just a thought,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Fri, Mar 16, 2018, 11:48 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm going to try to build a hard bimini.  The plan is to trace the shape
>> of the frame onto pieces of 2x6, cut them to shape and then screw a piece
>> of cheap plywood to the 2x6s to have the right shape.  I'm looking for
>> something flexible that will give the underside a nice smooth finish than
>> can be expoyed to fiberglass and painted.  The rest will be glass mat, foam
>> core, epoxy, more mat etc.  I know I could just add more epoxy and sand it,
>> but I rather avoid all that labor.
>>
>> Any suggestions on materials for the finished underside?
>>
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List *Reminder #1* October 26, 27, 28 - 2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C Rendezvous

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

We’ll be in Annapolis the preceding weekend for my Boat School 50th and will 
miss the C&C Rendezvous.   If people are looking for a place to stay on dry 
land, I’d suggest looking at Air B&B.  Even with our “special” reunion rate for 
hotels were very expensive.  

 

Several of us are staying at 
https://www.expedia.com/Annapolis-Hotels-Renovated-Historic-Home-Located-Downtown-Walk-Everywhere.h18992901.Hotel-Information?adults=2
 

 
&children=0&chkin=10%2F26%2F2018&chkout=10%2F28%2F2018®ionId=6034082&hwrqCacheKey=dea885d8-f9f8-45ea-9058-33f68560c3a0HWRQ1508334523920&vip=false&=undefined&exp_dp=365.67&exp_ts=1508334618050&exp_curr=USD&exp_pg=HSR&daysInFuture=&stayLength=&ts=1521219359274
  There are other choices.

 

Hopefully some listers might find this useful,

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 9:25 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Stus-List *Reminder #1* October 26, 27, 28 - 2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C 
Rendezvous

 

Hey folks, 

 

This is a friendly reminder for the rendezvous deadline to register with the 
Annapolis Harbor master (Beth) for a slip.  She asked that we get as many 
registrations in by March 31st as possible.  It was brought to my attention 
that moorings cannot be reserved. When I checked with Beth, she confirmed that 
moorings are exclusively first come first served but also said that finding a 
mooring shouldn't be a problem at that time of year.

 

Still looking for anyone interested in arranging extracurricular activities.  
Food, walking tours, swag, etc.

 

http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/2018-mid-atlantic-c-rendezvous.html?m=1

 

 

All the best, 

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

[William Walker via CnC-List]

FWIW, looking at the adhesives that are re commended, not sure that epoxy will 
bond very well with this.  Also, expansion rate for th is matwrial may create 
an issue for thius applications. 
But, may be worth a try, it's cheap enough.
Like to hear if my concerns are born out when you fi mish project.
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Friday, March 16, 2018 Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:

Fred,


I'll take a look.  I know one side is textured, but that could be side that we 
bond to if we just use more epoxy.


Joel


On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 11:56 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Joel — how about fiberglass wall panel material?


https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Plastic-Panel-63003/202090190


— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Mar 16, 2018, at 10:47 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:


I'm going to try to build a hard bimini.  The plan is to trace the shape of the 
frame onto pieces of 2x6, cut them to shape and then screw a piece of cheap 
plywood to the 2x6s to have the right shape.  I'm looking for something 
flexible that will give the underside a nice smooth finish than can be expoyed 
to fiberglass and painted.  The rest will be glass mat, foam core, epoxy, more 
mat etc.  I know I could just add more epoxy and sand it, but I rather avoid 
all that labor.


Any suggestions on materials for the finished underside?  


Joel 
301 541 8551


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

[M Bodnar via CnC-List]

  
  
I had read about someone doing this online - quick search brings
  up this article (plus others)

http://www.cruisingoutpost.com/2012/10/diy-dodger/




On 2018-03-16 2:13 PM, William Walker
  via CnC-List wrote:


  FWIW, looking at the adhesives that are re commended,
not sure that epoxy will bond very well with this.  Also,
expansion rate for th is matwrial may create an issue for thius
applications. 
But, may be worth a try, it's cheap enough.
Like to hear if my concerns are born out when you fi mish
project.
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi
  Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
  
  
  On
Friday, March 16, 2018 Joel Aronson via CnC-List  wrote:
  
  

  Fred,


I'll take a look.  I know one side is textured, but
  that could be side that we bond to if we just use more
  epoxy.


Joel
  
  
On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 11:56 AM,
  Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
  wrote:
  
Joel
  — how about fiberglass wall panel material?
  
  
  https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Plastic-Panel-63003/202090190
  
  
  — Fred

  
  
  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979
  C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in
  Bayfield, WI   :^(



  

  
On Mar 16, 2018, at 10:47 AM, Joel
  Aronson via CnC-List 
  wrote:


  I'm going to try to build a
hard bimini.  The plan is to trace the
shape of the frame onto pieces of 2x6,
cut them to shape and then screw a piece
of cheap plywood to the 2x6s to have the
right shape.  I'm looking for something
flexible that will give the underside a
nice smooth finish than can be expoyed
to fiberglass and painted.  The rest
will be glass mat, foam core, epoxy,
more mat etc.  I know I could just add
more epoxy and sand it, but I rather
avoid all that labor.


Any suggestions on materials for
  the finished underside?  

  Joel

301 541
  8551

  

  

  

  


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-- 
Joel 
  301 541 8551
  

  
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Re: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

There’s a West System product (not the regular epoxy) that I used to bond 
starboard to wood due to its high adhesive strength for plastic.  I think it’s 
called G-Flex or something.  There’s a prep procedure which includes lightly 
torching the surface of the plastic.  I made a shelf for the cockpit that has 
held up for two seasons without any signs of an issue.

From: William Walker via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 1:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

FWIW, looking at the adhesives that are re commended, not sure that epoxy will 
bond very well with this.  Also, expansion rate for th is matwrial may create 
an issue for thius applications. 
But, may be worth a try, it's cheap enough.
Like to hear if my concerns are born out when you fi mish project.
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail






On Friday, March 16, 2018 Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:


Fred, 

I'll take a look.  I know one side is textured, but that could be side that we 
bond to if we just use more epoxy.

Joel

On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 11:56 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Joel — how about fiberglass wall panel material? 

  
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Plastic-Panel-63003/202090190

  — Fred


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Mar 16, 2018, at 10:47 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I'm going to try to build a hard bimini.  The plan is to trace the shape of 
the frame onto pieces of 2x6, cut them to shape and then screw a piece of cheap 
plywood to the 2x6s to have the right shape.  I'm looking for something 
flexible that will give the underside a nice smooth finish than can be expoyed 
to fiberglass and painted.  The rest will be glass mat, foam core, epoxy, more 
mat etc.  I know I could just add more epoxy and sand it, but I rather avoid 
all that labor. 

Any suggestions on materials for the finished underside?  

Joel 
301 541 8551

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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551
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to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





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Re: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Nice write-up.  He did it right on the frame instead of on a form, but same
basic idea.



On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 1:20 PM, M Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had read about someone doing this online - quick search brings up this
> article (plus others)
>
> http://www.cruisingoutpost.com/2012/10/diy-dodger/
>
>  On 2018-03-16 2:13 PM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:
>
> FWIW, looking at the adhesives that are re commended, not sure that epoxy
> will bond very well with this.  Also, expansion rate for th is matwrial may
> create an issue for thius applications.
> But, may be worth a try, it's cheap enough.
> Like to hear if my concerns are born out when you fi mish project.
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Mi
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
>
> --
> On Friday, March 16, 2018 Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Fred,
>
> I'll take a look.  I know one side is textured, but that could be side
> that we bond to if we just use more epoxy.
>
> Joel
>
> On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 11:56 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Joel — how about fiberglass wall panel material?
>>
>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Plastic-Pa
>> nel-63003/202090190
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>
>> On Mar 16, 2018, at 10:47 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I'm going to try to build a hard bimini.  The plan is to trace the shape
>> of the frame onto pieces of 2x6, cut them to shape and then screw a piece
>> of cheap plywood to the 2x6s to have the right shape.  I'm looking for
>> something flexible that will give the underside a nice smooth finish than
>> can be expoyed to fiberglass and painted.  The rest will be glass mat, foam
>> core, epoxy, more mat etc.  I know I could just add more epoxy and sand it,
>> but I rather avoid all that labor.
>>
>> Any suggestions on materials for the finished underside?
>>
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551 <%28301%29%20541-8551>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Resleeving winches

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

My Barient 27's are developing a lot of play.  The aluminum drums wearing
badly (the inside, not the outside).

The rest of the winches are in great shape, gears, bearings, pawls.  I was
wondering if anyone on the group has ever tried having a machine shop bore
out the interior of the drum to accept a sleeve of aluminum or oilite
bronze. I contacted Hutton Winches in Australia and they told me they do
this service for $400/drum. Obviously, shipping 2 large winches to Australia
and back would be out of the question.  

Anyone had this done at a local machine shop?

 

Mike Amirault

C&C33ii Lovely Cruise

SMSC

 

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Re: Stus-List Resleeving winches

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

West Marine has a sale on now, through Sunday.  Buy one, get one free.
Lewmar winches included.  Might be a better way to go, Mike.  Disclaimer:
I don't know whether it applies to all WM stores.  I received the
announcement in an email from them.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 1:00 PM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My Barient 27’s are developing a lot of play.  The aluminum drums wearing
> badly (the inside, not the outside).
>
> The rest of the winches are in great shape, gears, bearings, pawls.  I was
> wondering if anyone on the group has ever tried having a machine shop bore
> out the interior of the drum to accept a sleeve of aluminum or oilite
> bronze. I contacted Hutton Winches in Australia and they told me they do
> this service for $400/drum. Obviously, shipping 2 large winches to
> Australia and back would be out of the question.
>
> Anyone had this done at a local machine shop?
>
>
>
> Mike Amirault
>
> C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
>
> SMSC
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Resleeving winches

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Check with those people in CA, maybe SF, who add Self Tailers to older
Barients.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of mike
amirault via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 4:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: mike amirault
Subject: Stus-List Resleeving winches

 

My Barient 27's are developing a lot of play.  The aluminum drums wearing
badly (the inside, not the outside).

The rest of the winches are in great shape, gears, bearings, pawls.  I was
wondering if anyone on the group has ever tried having a machine shop bore
out the interior of the drum to accept a sleeve of aluminum or oilite
bronze. I contacted Hutton Winches in Australia and they told me they do
this service for $400/drum. Obviously, shipping 2 large winches to Australia
and back would be out of the question.  

Anyone had this done at a local machine shop?

 

Mike Amirault

C&C33ii Lovely Cruise

SMSC

 

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Stus-List C&C 35-1 Cockpit Cover

[schiller via CnC-List]

I am still inventorying the equipment that we salvaged when we scrapped 
Corsair (Redwing 35/C&C 35-1) and came across the Cockpit Cover.  It is 
a 3/4 oz. Dacron Cover (10'4 Wide X 16' Long) that fits from the mast to 
the Backstay.  It has a split from the Topping Lift to the Backstay with 
quarter turn fasteners.


If anyone wants a decent cockpit cover, contact me on or off list.  Pay 
shipping and it is yours.  First to claim gets it.


BTW, Corsair had the original roller reefing boom.

Neil Schiller
Old: 1970 Redwing 35 (C&C 35-1), Hull #7
New: 1983 C&C 35-3, Hull #28
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC
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Re: Stus-List Resleeving winches

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I've had good results from my machinist re-welding the self tailer on one
of my aluminum winches.  It doesn't seem like reboring them should be all
that difficult.  My question would be, why are they wearing out?  Baring
other options you are welcome to send your winches to me and and I can
facilitate their repair.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Fri, Mar 16, 2018, 4:01 PM mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My Barient 27’s are developing a lot of play.  The aluminum drums wearing
> badly (the inside, not the outside).
>
> The rest of the winches are in great shape, gears, bearings, pawls.  I was
> wondering if anyone on the group has ever tried having a machine shop bore
> out the interior of the drum to accept a sleeve of aluminum or oilite
> bronze. I contacted Hutton Winches in Australia and they told me they do
> this service for $400/drum. Obviously, shipping 2 large winches to
> Australia and back would be out of the question.
>
> Anyone had this done at a local machine shop?
>
>
>
> Mike Amirault
>
> C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
>
> SMSC
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Resleeving winches

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Mike, 

 

Are you sure that the problem is the inner bore of the drum wallowing out? I 
would think the caged roller bearings between the drum and the central shaft of 
the winch would be a more likely item to wear… particularly if you have the 
generation of winch that had synthetic roller bearings instead of bronze, or if 
the PO did not service the winches properly and dirt got into the bearings.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 5:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Resleeving winches

 

I've had good results from my machinist re-welding the self tailer on one of my 
aluminum winches.  It doesn't seem like reboring them should be all that 
difficult.  My question would be, why are they wearing out?  Baring other 
options you are welcome to send your winches to me and and I can facilitate 
their repair.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

On Fri, Mar 16, 2018, 4:01 PM mike amirault via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

My Barient 27’s are developing a lot of play.  The aluminum drums wearing badly 
(the inside, not the outside).

The rest of the winches are in great shape, gears, bearings, pawls.  I was 
wondering if anyone on the group has ever tried having a machine shop bore out 
the interior of the drum to accept a sleeve of aluminum or oilite bronze. I 
contacted Hutton Winches in Australia and they told me they do this service for 
$400/drum. Obviously, shipping 2 large winches to Australia and back would be 
out of the question.  

Anyone had this done at a local machine shop?

 

Mike Amirault

C&C33ii Lovely Cruise

SMSC

 

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Re: Stus-List Resleeving winches

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Mike - Lucky for you I have a pair of 28s for sale!



From: CnC-List  on behalf of mike amirault via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 3:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: mike amirault
Subject: Stus-List Resleeving winches


My Barient 27’s are developing a lot of play.  The aluminum drums wearing badly 
(the inside, not the outside).

The rest of the winches are in great shape, gears, bearings, pawls.  I was 
wondering if anyone on the group has ever tried having a machine shop bore out 
the interior of the drum to accept a sleeve of aluminum or oilite bronze. I 
contacted Hutton Winches in Australia and they told me they do this service for 
$400/drum. Obviously, shipping 2 large winches to Australia and back would be 
out of the question.

Anyone had this done at a local machine shop?



Mike Amirault

C&C33ii Lovely Cruise

SMSC


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Re: Stus-List Resleeving winches

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I had issues with my alloy Barlows and Barients.

Issue 1 - the pawl receptacle was wallowing out.  That caused the pawls to
stick or to partially exit the receptacle.  Bad!  I took them to a
machinist who was interested in all things boating.  He declined to touch
them.  He could have filled the rebored the pawl holes.

Issue 2 - I had some teeth break off the inside of the drum.  I took the
drum to a machine shop where they filled then recut the teeth.  $200.

My ultimate solution was to replace ALL 6 of the alloy winches with chrome
bronze and stainless winches off eBay and Craiglist List.  2 stainless
Barient 22's, 2 chrome Barlow 28's and 2 chrome Barlow 26's for $1100 total
plus  some shipping.

In my opinion, alloy winches have a limited service life.  I would check
eBay often to upgrade to chrome bronze or stainless.  Chrome and stainless
winches look great and improve the "pier appeal" of your boat.

To search Craigslist and local classifieds, use claz.org or yakaz.com.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 3:00 PM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My Barient 27’s are developing a lot of play.  The aluminum drums wearing
> badly (the inside, not the outside).
>
> The rest of the winches are in great shape, gears, bearings, pawls.  I was
> wondering if anyone on the group has ever tried having a machine shop bore
> out the interior of the drum to accept a sleeve of aluminum or oilite
> bronze. I contacted Hutton Winches in Australia and they told me they do
> this service for $400/drum. Obviously, shipping 2 large winches to
> Australia and back would be out of the question.
>
> Anyone had this done at a local machine shop?
>
>
>
> Mike Amirault
>
> C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
>
> SMSC
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I used that to cover a berth flat once.  Most glues and adhesives don't
work well with the stuff.  Need special FRP adhesive.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 10:56 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joel — how about fiberglass wall panel material?
>
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Plastic-
> Panel-63003/202090190
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Mar 16, 2018, at 10:47 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I'm going to try to build a hard bimini.  The plan is to trace the shape
> of the frame onto pieces of 2x6, cut them to shape and then screw a piece
> of cheap plywood to the 2x6s to have the right shape.  I'm looking for
> something flexible that will give the underside a nice smooth finish than
> can be expoyed to fiberglass and painted.  The rest will be glass mat, foam
> core, epoxy, more mat etc.  I know I could just add more epoxy and sand it,
> but I rather avoid all that labor.
>
> Any suggestions on materials for the finished underside?
>
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

FWIW, after the recent discussion started by Bruce Whitmore (IIRC) about a hard 
dodger for his 37/40, I contacted Hard to Top (www.hardtotop.com 
 ) about a hard dodger for my 38. The quote for a 90” 
x 46” hard dodger with height and shape specific to my boat, with track on 3 
sides for canvas panels, a stainless frame, and shipping from Florida to North 
Carolina was just over $1000. The hard top is poly carbonate. My quote included 
an aluminum edge around the hard top. Delivery in 2 to 3 weeks. And the dodger 
is warranted for 10 years.  I was really surprised at how low the price was.

 

In looking at the website, it appears that he company builds a lot more bimini 
tops than dodgers.

 

Have you considered that option?

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 11:48 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

 

I'm going to try to build a hard bimini.  The plan is to trace the shape of the 
frame onto pieces of 2x6, cut them to shape and then screw a piece of cheap 
plywood to the 2x6s to have the right shape.  I'm looking for something 
flexible that will give the underside a nice smooth finish than can be expoyed 
to fiberglass and painted.  The rest will be glass mat, foam core, epoxy, more 
mat etc.  I know I could just add more epoxy and sand it, but I rather avoid 
all that labor.

 

Any suggestions on materials for the finished underside?  

 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Resleeving winches

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Pete,

 

Would they happen to be self tailers?

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pete
Shelquist via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 6:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Pete Shelquist ; mike amirault

Subject: Re: Stus-List Resleeving winches

 

Mike - Lucky for you I have a pair of 28s for sale!  

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Home Depot sells a fiberglass sheet 4' x 8' and you could use that to make the 
finished side. It's less than 1/8" thick so you can bend it pretty easy. Comes 
in White or Ivory. There are Youtube videos that show some results.


> On March 16, 2018 at 11:47 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm going to try to build a hard bimini.  The plan is to trace the shape 
> of the frame onto pieces of 2x6, cut them to shape and then screw a piece of 
> cheap plywood to the 2x6s to have the right shape.  I'm looking for something 
> flexible that will give the underside a nice smooth finish than can be 
> expoyed to fiberglass and painted.  The rest will be glass mat, foam core, 
> epoxy, more mat etc.  I know I could just add more epoxy and sand it, but I 
> rather avoid all that labor.
> 
> Any suggestions on materials for the finished underside?  
> 
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
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> 
 
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Re: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Meant to add, the Home Depot sheeting is smooth on one side and pebbled on the 
other and you don't have to paint it.


> On March 16, 2018 at 11:47 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm going to try to build a hard bimini.  The plan is to trace the shape 
> of the frame onto pieces of 2x6, cut them to shape and then screw a piece of 
> cheap plywood to the 2x6s to have the right shape.  I'm looking for something 
> flexible that will give the underside a nice smooth finish than can be 
> expoyed to fiberglass and painted.  The rest will be glass mat, foam core, 
> epoxy, more mat etc.  I know I could just add more epoxy and sand it, but I 
> rather avoid all that labor.
> 
> Any suggestions on materials for the finished underside?  
> 
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List Resleeving winches

[schiller via CnC-List]

I have a pair of lightly used, fresh water, Chrome, Andersen 46ST 
Self-tailers that are available on theboatlist.org. Always covered when 
not in use.


Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028
"Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 3/16/2018 4:00 PM, mike amirault via CnC-List wrote:


My Barient 27’s are developing a lot of play.  The aluminum drums 
wearing badly (the inside, not the outside).


The rest of the winches are in great shape, gears, bearings, pawls.  I 
was wondering if anyone on the group has ever tried having a machine 
shop bore out the interior of the drum to accept a sleeve of aluminum 
or oilite bronze. I contacted Hutton Winches in Australia and they 
told me they do this service for $400/drum. Obviously, shipping 2 
large winches to Australia and back would be out of the question.


Anyone had this done at a local machine shop?

Mike Amirault

C&C33ii Lovely Cruise

SMSC



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Re: Stus-List Resleeving winches

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Dennis has a good point. There are several 27 & 28 self tailers on eBay right 
now, starting at prices below $500.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BARIENT-27-ST-TWO-SPEED-WINCH-6-3-4-BASE-8-TALL-COMPARABLE-TO-LEWMAR-46ST/192182839566?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D47300%26meid%3D370311bf4cae4a0c8bfa5740bee57652%26pid%3D15%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D192423911577%26itm%3D192182839566
 

 &_trksid=p2047675.c15.m1851

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 6:50 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Resleeving winches

 

I had issues with my alloy Barlows and Barients. 

 

Issue 1 - the pawl receptacle was wallowing out.  That caused the pawls to 
stick or to partially exit the receptacle.  Bad!  I took them to a machinist 
who was interested in all things boating.  He declined to touch them.  He could 
have filled the rebored the pawl holes.

 

Issue 2 - I had some teeth break off the inside of the drum.  I took the drum 
to a machine shop where they filled then recut the teeth.  $200.

 

My ultimate solution was to replace ALL 6 of the alloy winches with chrome 
bronze and stainless winches off eBay and Craiglist List.  2 stainless Barient 
22's, 2 chrome Barlow 28's and 2 chrome Barlow 26's for $1100 total plus  some 
shipping.

 

In my opinion, alloy winches have a limited service life.  I would check eBay 
often to upgrade to chrome bronze or stainless.  Chrome and stainless winches 
look great and improve the "pier appeal" of your boat.

 

To search Craigslist and local classifieds, use claz.org   or 
yakaz.com  .

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 3:00 PM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

My Barient 27’s are developing a lot of play.  The aluminum drums wearing badly 
(the inside, not the outside).

The rest of the winches are in great shape, gears, bearings, pawls.  I was 
wondering if anyone on the group has ever tried having a machine shop bore out 
the interior of the drum to accept a sleeve of aluminum or oilite bronze. I 
contacted Hutton Winches in Australia and they told me they do this service for 
$400/drum. Obviously, shipping 2 large winches to Australia and back would be 
out of the question.  

Anyone had this done at a local machine shop?

 

Mike Amirault

C&C33ii Lovely Cruise

SMSC

 


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Re: Stus-List C&C 35-1 Cockpit Cover

[David Miles via CnC-List]

Hi Neil,
That might work for us.
Drop me a line at mi...@intergate.ca
David

On March 16, 2018 14:12:54 schiller via CnC-List  wrote:
I am still inventorying the equipment that we salvaged when we scrapped 
Corsair (Redwing 35/C&C 35-1) and came across the Cockpit Cover.  It is a 
3/4 oz. Dacron Cover (10'4 Wide X 16' Long) that fits from the mast to the 
Backstay.  It has a split from the Topping Lift to the Backstay with 
quarter turn fasteners.


If anyone wants a decent cockpit cover, contact me on or off list.  Pay 
shipping and it is yours.  First to claim gets it.


BTW, Corsair had the original roller reefing boom.

Neil Schiller
Old: 1970 Redwing 35 (C&C 35-1), Hull #7
New: 1983 C&C 35-3, Hull #28
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC
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Re: Stus-List Resleeving winches

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Yes, I am sure the issue is with the inner bore of the drum wearing out.
What the PO might have done is unknown but the bearings are stainless.
Hutton winches advises me they should be delrin.

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Stus-List Toe rail wick - Version 3.1.1a.2

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

OK, guys and gals, I threw together a new design toe rail wick.

Why?  Because apparently the wind blew away the old ones so I needed to
make new ones anyway.

I cut 3 short pieces of cotton lamp wick and stitched them together across
the top of a another long piece of wick to form a T shape.  The 3 pieces
ensure that the wick assembly makes good contact with the deck making up
for the thickness of the toe rail.  The T shape hopefully will keep the
darn thing from getting blown away.  See pics here:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1mWEXOwExu8Z8H5Mp6qtXIhJ-ST1Q-a_w

I foresee the next design having the C&C logo.  NOT!

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Toe rail wick - Version 3.1.1a.2

[David Miles via CnC-List]

Looks Great!! Nice job. But wick is directional. It only flows one way, and 
it looks backwards...Don't want to sink the 
boat...🤣🤣🤣.nice job.


On March 16, 2018 18:12:54 "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
wrote:

OK, guys and gals, I threw together a new design toe rail wick.

Why?  Because apparently the wind blew away the old ones so I needed to 
make new ones anyway.


I cut 3 short pieces of cotton lamp wick and stitched them together across 
the top of a another long piece of wick to form a T shape.  The 3 pieces 
ensure that the wick assembly makes good contact with the deck making up 
for the thickness of the toe rail.  The T shape hopefully will keep the 
darn thing from getting blown away.  See pics here:


https://drive.google.com/open?id=1mWEXOwExu8Z8H5Mp6qtXIhJ-ST1Q-a_w

I foresee the next design having the C&C logo.  NOT!

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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