Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 137, Issue 20

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

My 35 MK I has two water tanks and only one was listed on the brochure. I 
always assumed extra tanks were an option not everyone ordered.

Joe
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee 
Rosenbaum via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 5, 2017 1:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Lee Rosenbaum 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 137, Issue 20


My 1985 33 mk II has water tanks in both the Port & Starbord settees.

Wonder why I have two tanks and others only have one?

Lee Rosenbaum
Kookaburra 1985 mk II
Kenosha, WI

-Original Message-

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2017 16:42:24 +
From: Bruno Lachance 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2 livability improvement - settee access
Message-ID:



Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Nice Dave,

On my 1987 33 mk II the water tank is port side under this sette and it is 
original, so the starboard side is storage and more accessible.  This must have 
an impact in weight distribution?

How many 33 mk II owners have their tank on the starboard side?

Bruno lachance
B?cassine, 1987 33mkii
New-Richmond, Qc.



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Re: Stus-List Intriguing challenge

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

I help do the same to a pin stop spinnaker car. Worked.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


> On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 5:46 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
> 
>> I would drill the top hole way oversize (like 3/8") and pull the whole 
>> works out through it. 
>> 
>> Jim Watts 
>> Paradigm Shift 
>> C&C 35 Mk III 
>> Victoria, BC 
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Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Probably, there is about 1 l (1 qt) of oil between the high and low marks on 
the dipstick (there is probably around 4 l (?), maybe 5 l total in the engine). 
If you think about it, going through 1 l of oil in 24 h is not that terribly 
bad, especially considering the age of the engine.

Btw. this is about what I use my engine during the entire season (about 30 h).

just my 2c

Marek

From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 4, 2017 22:17
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svpegasus38
Subject: Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn

I use permatex D2 for threaded fittings, and a permatex black for gaskets. I 
also wipe all surfaces with acetone prior to assembly. As for oil usage. How 
much oil does it take to go from the add Mark and full? It does sound like a 
lot. If you burned say 3 qts in 24 hours, that is only 1 qt every 8 hours not 
excessive. But something to monitor.



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy
POYC
Pegasus
Lf38
Significant Other
LF39

 Original message 
From: PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List 
Date: 6/4/17 11:39 (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: PETER OCAMPO 
Subject: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn

Question just motored from Newport ri  to Portland Maine and noted the oil dip 
stick when I left was full and when I got back after motoring for 24 hours  was 
1/2 way on the dip stick.

On my big block chevy suburban I burn a quart of oil per 1000 miles.

Is this normal

Also I get  a little white smoke when motoring. No temp issues stays at 180. 
Oil pressure at 50-55


Has anyone used a gasket sealer that works

Thanks

Peter

Goonie island
C&c 40 1983. Aft cabin

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

On my old atomic 4 I put a tee in at the oil pressure sender, and screwed in a 
standard pressure gauge.  I too, wondered about the accuracy of the gauge.  On 
the Atomic 4, the oil pressure is adjustable, and that allowed me to tune the 
oil pressure to spec.  

I agree that 75 psi is too high, nearly twice as high as expected, and if it 
really is that high, that might be driving the oil usage.  I would try putting 
a gauge in as a test and go from there.
Kindest Regards, 
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Bill Dakin via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Dakin 
 Sent: Sunday, June 4, 2017 10:12 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn
   
The gauge should be replaced so that you have confidence in it at all rpm's and 
temps.  Few engines should be that high.

Bill Dakin

> On Jun 4, 2017, at 8:08 PM, David Castor via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Also, FWIW, my oil pressure gauge reads about 75 psi.  The surveyor thought 
> that was too high, but I have no idea on the accuracy of the gauge.  My 
> mechanic didn't seem 

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Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

That is what we did on our old C&C 27 as well.  Keep the cooler/fridge water 
out of the bilge!  You never know what might end up being washed down the hose, 
and you sure don't want stuff rotting down in the bilge.  Ewww
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Dave S via CnC-List 
 To: doug.we...@rogers.com; C&c Stus List  
Cc: Dave S 
 Sent: Sunday, June 4, 2017 7:20 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the 
ice box drain to?
   
Windstar has a beckson siphon mate pump mounted below the sink.  The ice box 
drain is connected to this and the pump discharge hose can be placed in the 
sink to pump the icebox almost dry.  When not in use it is coiled up below the 
sink.
Dave



- Forwarded message --
From: Doug Welch 
To: "C&C List" 
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2017 23:06:00 + (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice 
box drain to?
ours seems to be clogged and I couldn't figure out how to get to it to unclog
thanks in advance
cheers doug,celtic knot 33-2 c/b 
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Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn

[PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List]

Thanks for the info This is my first marine diesel and i was not sure what is 
within the. Avg  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 4, 2017, at 7:58 PM, David Castor via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> No idea what the normal range is but my Westerbeke 21 with 2500 hours burns 
> very little oil. Maybe 0.2 quarts in 40 hours.  Of course it has a seemingly 
> permanent coolant leak
> 
> Dave 
>> On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 4:51 PM PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Sorry maybe didn't word it right
>> 
>> The motor time was about 24 hours no wind at about 2500 rpm  this was more 
>> delivery then enjoyment. Needed to get back for work
>> 
>> Just wondering if others burn oil with their diesel to that amount.
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Peter
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> > On Jun 4, 2017, at 7:33 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
>> >  wrote:
>> >
>> > Would a thousand hours in the Suburban  be 20 hours? How does that compare 
>> > to your motoring time to Maine? I sail on the west coast so I don't have a 
>> > clue how many hours of operation is involved from Newport to Maine.
>> >
>> > Rick Rohwer
>> > 509 306 1094
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >> On Jun 4, 2017, at 11:39, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List 
>> >>  wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Question just motored from Newport ri  to Portland Maine and noted the 
>> >> oil dip stick when I left was full and when I got back after motoring for 
>> >> 24 hours  was 1/2 way on the dip stick.
>> >>
>> >> On my big block chevy suburban I burn a quart of oil per 1000 miles.
>> >>
>> >> Is this normal
>> >>
>> >> Also I get  a little white smoke when motoring. No temp issues stays at 
>> >> 180. Oil pressure at 50-55
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Has anyone used a gasket sealer that works
>> >>
>> >> Thanks
>> >>
>> >> Peter
>> >>
>> >> Goonie island
>> >> C&c 40 1983. Aft cabin
>> >>
>> >> Sent from my iPhone
>> >> ___
>> >>
>> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>> >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> >>
>> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> >
>> > ___
>> >
>> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>> > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> >
>> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Bilge Water Level

[Raymond Macklin via CnC-List]

I have a 1985 C&C 33.  I have a question regarding water in the bilge
area.  I just put my boat in to start the season.  I found that my Bilge
Pump Float switch was not working.  I also found that with the boat sitting
in the water, the bilge filled up with water in quite a short time (like it
about 4 hours)  I wanted to know if that seems right.  I should with the
water rising so quickly, the bilge pump would be running all the time.
Does anyone know what could be causing it?  I removed the hose from the
stern that fed into it, just to make sure it was not coming from the engine
compartment.  Any ideas?

Ray Macklin
LakeHouse
Milwaukee
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Re: Stus-List Bilge Water Level

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Definitely not right.  If it doesn't rain, my bilge pump won't pump for
days.

Check the drive shaft stuffing box first.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Jun 5, 2017 at 8:31 AM, Raymond Macklin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a 1985 C&C 33.  I have a question regarding water in the bilge
> area.  I just put my boat in to start the season.  I found that my Bilge
> Pump Float switch was not working.  I also found that with the boat sitting
> in the water, the bilge filled up with water in quite a short time (like it
> about 4 hours)  I wanted to know if that seems right.  I should with the
> water rising so quickly, the bilge pump would be running all the time.
> Does anyone know what could be causing it?  I removed the hose from the
> stern that fed into it, just to make sure it was not coming from the engine
> compartment.  Any ideas?
>
> Ray Macklin
> LakeHouse
> Milwaukee
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge Water Level

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 The bilge on the 33 is tiny...it doesn't take much to fill it up; The 
suggestions made by Dennis are accurate; if you just launched, it could be 
extraneous water; keep a close eye on whether you are getting more water or if 
it was a one-time event... 

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Mon, Jun 5, 2017 9:36 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge Water Level



Definitely not right.  If it doesn't rain, my bilge pump won't pump for days.


Check the drive shaft stuffing box first.



Dennis C.




On Mon, Jun 5, 2017 at 8:31 AM, Raymond Macklin via CnC-List 
 wrote:



I have a 1985 C&C 33.  I have a question regarding water in the bilge area.  I 
just put my boat in to start the season.  I found that my Bilge Pump Float 
switch was not working.  I also found that with the boat sitting in the water, 
the bilge filled up with water in quite a short time (like it about 4 hours)  I 
wanted to know if that seems right.  I should with the water rising so quickly, 
the bilge pump would be running all the time.  Does anyone know what could be 
causing it?  I removed the hose from the stern that fed into it, just to make 
sure it was not coming from the engine compartment.  Any ideas?


Ray Macklin

LakeHouse

Milwaukee


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Re: Stus-List Bilge Water Level

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Start with the stuffing box for the prop shaft. It could be the packing, an 
easy fix, or it could be an ancient stuffing box hose, which is more painful to 
replace.

Strategically placed paper towels or chalk can tell you where the water is 
coming from.

Right after I bought my current boat, it nearly sank at the dock after the 
surveyor failed to notice the stuffing box hose was seriously deteriorating.



Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.





Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Raymond Macklin via CnC-List  
Date:06/05/2017  9:31 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Raymond Macklin  
Subject: Stus-List Bilge Water Level 

I have a 1985 C&C 33.  I have a question regarding water in the bilge area.  I 
just put my boat in to start the season.  I found that my Bilge Pump Float 
switch was not working.  I also found that with the boat sitting in the water, 
the bilge filled up with water in quite a short time (like it about 4 hours)  I 
wanted to know if that seems right.  I should with the water rising so quickly, 
the bilge pump would be running all the time.  Does anyone know what could be 
causing it?  I removed the hose from the stern that fed into it, just to make 
sure it was not coming from the engine compartment.  Any ideas?

Ray Macklin
LakeHouse
Milwaukee
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Stus-List Wood restoration question

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Listers:

I recently had my chart table refurbished by a carpenter who does very nice 
woodwork.  Unfortunately, the refurbished chart table highlights that other 
areas of woodwork need some TLC, most notably the teak ply bulkhead wall that 
the chart table connects to.  Certain areas of teak surface appear lighter in 
color than other areas.  Any suggestions on refinishing the teak veneer that a 
non-expert can safely undertake?  Is sanding too risky due to the thinness of 
the veneer?

Matt Wolford  
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Stus-List Landfall 43

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Anyone have one?
My wife saw a photo and really liked the boat. I have no experience with them 
at all.


Joe Della Barba
DCSI
410-966-7255


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Re: Stus-List Landfall 43

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Joe — there’s been one for sale in our marina for the last couple of years:

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1985/C%26C-Landfall-43-2440870/Bayfield---Lake-Superior/WI/United-States#.WTV7tTOZNE4
 


She’s a one-owner fresh water boat; the (elderly) couple who owns her has kept 
her beautifully down below.  But the electronics and some other systems, while 
well-maintained, are dated.

They started out wanting about $195,000 for her; as you can see, the price has 
dropped to much more realistic levels…


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 5, 2017, at 10:31 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Anyone have one?
> My wife saw a photo and really liked the boat. I have no experience with them 
> at all.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> DCSI
> 410-966-7255
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Re: Stus-List Landfall 43

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Looks nice, but that is a long trip home! I would have to go out the Saint 
Lawrence Seaway and then turn right. AFAIK there are fixed low bridges on the 
Erie Canal.
I was kind of wondering if these were good boats in the first place. I know 
some C&C models were not as good as the others.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 5, 2017 11:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 43

Joe — there’s been one for sale in our marina for the last couple of years:

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1985/C%26C-Landfall-43-2440870/Bayfield---Lake-Superior/WI/United-States#.WTV7tTOZNE4

She’s a one-owner fresh water boat; the (elderly) couple who owns her has kept 
her beautifully down below.  But the electronics and some other systems, while 
well-maintained, are dated.

They started out wanting about $195,000 for her; as you can see, the price has 
dropped to much more realistic levels…


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jun 5, 2017, at 10:31 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Anyone have one?
My wife saw a photo and really liked the boat. I have no experience with them 
at all.


Joe Della Barba
DCSI
410-966-7255
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Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Persistence has 3GM30F (3 cyclinder yanmar).  We also burn oil at about the 
rate you describe


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of PETER OCAMPO 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2017 10:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: PETER OCAMPO
Subject: Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn

Thanks for the info This is my first marine diesel and i was not sure what is 
within the. Avg

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 4, 2017, at 7:58 PM, David Castor via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
No idea what the normal range is but my Westerbeke 21 with 2500 hours burns 
very little oil. Maybe 0.2 quarts in 40 hours.  Of course it has a seemingly 
permanent coolant leak

Dave
On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 4:51 PM PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Sorry maybe didn't word it right

The motor time was about 24 hours no wind at about 2500 rpm  this was more 
delivery then enjoyment. Needed to get back for work

Just wondering if others burn oil with their diesel to that amount.

Thanks

Peter

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 4, 2017, at 7:33 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
> Would a thousand hours in the Suburban  be 20 hours? How does that compare to 
> your motoring time to Maine? I sail on the west coast so I don't have a clue 
> how many hours of operation is involved from Newport to Maine.
>
> Rick Rohwer
> 509 306 1094
>
>
>
>> On Jun 4, 2017, at 11:39, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>
>> Question just motored from Newport ri  to Portland Maine and noted the oil 
>> dip stick when I left was full and when I got back after motoring for 24 
>> hours  was 1/2 way on the dip stick.
>>
>> On my big block chevy suburban I burn a quart of oil per 1000 miles.
>>
>> Is this normal
>>
>> Also I get  a little white smoke when motoring. No temp issues stays at 180. 
>> Oil pressure at 50-55
>>
>>
>> Has anyone used a gasket sealer that works
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Peter
>>
>> Goonie island
>> C&c 40 1983. Aft cabin
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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___

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Re: Stus-List Bilge Water Level

[Hector Saulnier via CnC-List]

Ray
I have a 1985 C&C 33 mk 2 and i noticed that after about 2 days I have about 2 
liters of water.  I looked at the stuffing box and the raw water intake and 
other spots and found them to be good.  I then took a wet vac and cleaned out 
the bildge and engine area.  used baby pouder and found that I have a small 
amount of water coming in from the keel bolts.  I am going to look at this 
further.  Does anyone have the specs for the tourgue that is suppose to be on 
these bolts?  Or any comments at what to try first?  I do not have a C&C smile 
and the boat had no issues last season.

Hector
  - Original Message - 
  From: Raymond Macklin 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 05, 2017 10:31 AM
  Subject: Stus-List Bilge Water Level


  I have a 1985 C&C 33.  I have a question regarding water in the bilge area.  
I just put my boat in to start the season.  I found that my Bilge Pump Float 
switch was not working.  I also found that with the boat sitting in the water, 
the bilge filled up with water in quite a short time (like it about 4 hours)  I 
wanted to know if that seems right.  I should with the water rising so quickly, 
the bilge pump would be running all the time.  Does anyone know what could be 
causing it?  I removed the hose from the stern that fed into it, just to make 
sure it was not coming from the engine compartment.  Any ideas?


  Ray Macklin

  LakeHouse

  Milwaukee
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Re: Stus-List Bilge Water Level

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

The torque specs are on the C&C website:  http://cncphotoalbum.com/

Click "Technical Info" in the left sidebar then click "Torque Specs".

Specs are by bolt size.  Back off the nuts, then re-torque to spec.  If
your boat does not have stainless backing plates, replace them.

While you're there, think about donating to Stu who maintains this valuable
resource for us.  Donate at https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jun 5, 2017 at 11:36 AM, Hector Saulnier via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ray
> I have a 1985 C&C 33 mk 2 and i noticed that after about 2 days I have
> about 2 liters of water.  I looked at the stuffing box and the raw water
> intake and other spots and found them to be good.  I then took a wet vac
> and cleaned out the bildge and engine area.  used baby pouder and found
> that I have a small amount of water coming in from the keel bolts.  I am
> going to look at this further.  Does anyone have the specs for the tourgue
> that is suppose to be on these bolts?  Or any comments at what to try
> first?  I do not have a C&C smile and the boat had no issues last season.
>
> Hector
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Raymond Macklin 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Monday, June 05, 2017 10:31 AM
> *Subject:* Stus-List Bilge Water Level
>
> I have a 1985 C&C 33.  I have a question regarding water in the bilge
> area.  I just put my boat in to start the season.  I found that my Bilge
> Pump Float switch was not working.  I also found that with the boat sitting
> in the water, the bilge filled up with water in quite a short time (like it
> about 4 hours)  I wanted to know if that seems right.  I should with the
> water rising so quickly, the bilge pump would be running all the time.
> Does anyone know what could be causing it?  I removed the hose from the
> stern that fed into it, just to make sure it was not coming from the engine
> compartment.  Any ideas?
>
> Ray Macklin
> LakeHouse
> Milwaukee
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge Water Level

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Ray - not right at all.  I have the same boat as you.   The 33-2 has a deep 
sump, mine takes on no water at all. 

I am assuming you have closed all through hulls and checked instrument senders.

I suggest you spend 30 min and remove the table (four bolts) and cabin sole (a 
bunch of screws, use a cordless drill.).   You will find the problem quickly 
enough.  


Dave.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 5, 2017, at 9:31 AM, Raymond Macklin  wrote:
> 
> I have a 1985 C&C 33.  I have a question regarding water in the bilge area.  
> I just put my boat in to start the season.  I found that my Bilge Pump Float 
> switch was not working.  I also found that with the boat sitting in the 
> water, the bilge filled up with water in quite a short time (like it about 4 
> hours)  I wanted to know if that seems right.  I should with the water rising 
> so quickly, the bilge pump would be running all the time.  Does anyone know 
> what could be causing it?  I removed the hose from the stern that fed into 
> it, just to make sure it was not coming from the engine compartment.  Any 
> ideas?
> 
> Ray Macklin
> LakeHouse
> Milwaukee

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Stus-List USCG vessel documentation renewal scam again

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Got my "courtesy notice" from the vessel documentation scammers today.
Even though I've never fallen for it, it really irritates me.  Might send
them an email saying "nice try, scammers".

Again, for those new to the list, uscgdocumentation.us is a third party
entity which will charge you about 3 times the renewal fee.

The official documentation site is https://www.uscg.mil/nvdc/.  I notice
the tab on this site now says "THE ONLY OFFICIAL SITE...".  The fee is only
$26.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List USCG vessel documentation renewal scam again

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Indeed. Filling out my official documentation update form right now. Both the 
real and scam notices arrived at the same time, confusing my wife.

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Jun 5, 2017, at 1:09 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Got my "courtesy notice" from the vessel documentation scammers today.  Even 
> though I've never fallen for it, it really irritates me.  Might send them an 
> email saying "nice try, scammers".
> 
> Again, for those new to the list, uscgdocumentation.us 
>  is a third party entity which will charge you 
> about 3 times the renewal fee.
> 
> The official documentation site is https://www.uscg.mil/nvdc/ 
> .  I notice the tab on this site now says "THE 
> ONLY OFFICIAL SITE...".  The fee is only $26.  
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?

[Tim Sippel via CnC-List]

On my 85 , it drains into the bilge , it often clogged , I cut out an access 
panel and found the hose was about a foot longer than necessary and had a loop 
in it (wtf) once cut to proper length and loop removed , no issues .

Tim Sippel

Matico
33Mkii




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Welch 
via CnC-List
Sent: June 4, 2017 7:06 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Doug Welch 
Subject: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice 
box drain to?

ours seems to be clogged and I couldn't figure out how to get to it to unclog

thanks in advance

cheers doug,
celtic knot 33-2 c/b
pickering





This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at 
www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

The loop was probably to limit air movement in/out the hose to maintain the
cold.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Jun 5, 2017 at 1:04 PM, Tim Sippel via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On my 85 , it drains into the bilge , it often clogged , I cut out an
> access panel and found the hose was about a foot longer than necessary and
> had a loop in it (wtf) once cut to proper length and loop removed , no
> issues .
>
>
>
> *Tim Sippel*
>
>
>
> *Matico*
>
> *33Mkii*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Doug
> Welch via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June 4, 2017 7:06 PM
> *To:* C&C List 
> *Cc:* Doug Welch 
> *Subject:* Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of
> the ice box drain to?
>
>
>
> ours seems to be clogged and I couldn't figure out how to get to it to
> unclog
>
>
>
> thanks in advance
>
>
>
> cheers doug,
>
> celtic knot 33-2 c/b
>
> pickering
>
>
>
>
> --
> This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the
> basis of the terms set out at www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice
>
>
>
> Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels
> se fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
> www.rogers.com/aviscourriel
>
> --
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Just FYI – you may want to rethink that plan. Ever have milk spill in the 
icebox? Your boat will smell extra-special for a long time!
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK i

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Sippel 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 5, 2017 2:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tim Sippel 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the 
ice box drain to?

On my 85 , it drains into the bilge , it often clogged , I cut out an access 
panel and found the hose was about a foot longer than necessary and had a loop 
in it (wtf) once cut to proper length and loop removed , no issues .

Tim Sippel

Matico
33Mkii




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Welch 
via CnC-List
Sent: June 4, 2017 7:06 PM
To: C&C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Doug Welch mailto:doug.we...@rogers.com>>
Subject: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice 
box drain to?

ours seems to be clogged and I couldn't figure out how to get to it to unclog

thanks in advance

cheers doug,
celtic knot 33-2 c/b
pickering




This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at 
www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
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Re: Stus-List USCG vessel documentation renewal scam again

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

Same here, received the actual USCG renewal today along the third "scam"
renewal letter.

These folks must be making a killing..

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY
US12788
Savannah, GA



On Mon, Jun 5, 2017 at 1:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Indeed. Filling out my official documentation update form right now. Both
> the real and scam notices arrived at the same time, confusing my wife.
>
> Cheers,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Jun 5, 2017, at 1:09 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Got my "courtesy notice" from the vessel documentation scammers today.
> Even though I've never fallen for it, it really irritates me.  Might send
> them an email saying "nice try, scammers".
>
> Again, for those new to the list, uscgdocumentation.us is a third party
> entity which will charge you about 3 times the renewal fee.
>
> The official documentation site is https://www.uscg.mil/nvdc/.  I notice
> the tab on this site now says "THE ONLY OFFICIAL SITE...".  The fee is only
> $26.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I have the hose leading to a foot pump under the sink. The pump output just 
goes up into the sink. I'm now adept at mixing cocktails and foot pumping at 
the same time. 

(I have a valve just before the footpump that allows me to switch over to the 
fresh water tank in the event that the electric pump fails or I want to save 
energy)

Mike
Atacama. 33mkii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?

[David via CnC-List]

I plumbed the ice box drain to a T to my galley fresh water foot pump.  A few 
valves and I can pump  salt, fresh  or the ice box dry.  Out it goes into the 
sink.

Pretty convienet.



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
Date: 6/5/17 14:09 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the 
ice box drain to?

Just FYI – you may want to rethink that plan. Ever have milk spill in the 
icebox? Your boat will smell extra-special for a long time!
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK i

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Sippel 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 5, 2017 2:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tim Sippel 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the 
ice box drain to?

On my 85 , it drains into the bilge , it often clogged , I cut out an access 
panel and found the hose was about a foot longer than necessary and had a loop 
in it (wtf) once cut to proper length and loop removed , no issues .

Tim Sippel

Matico
33Mkii




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Welch 
via CnC-List
Sent: June 4, 2017 7:06 PM
To: C&C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Doug Welch mailto:doug.we...@rogers.com>>
Subject: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice 
box drain to?

ours seems to be clogged and I couldn't figure out how to get to it to unclog

thanks in advance

cheers doug,
celtic knot 33-2 c/b
pickering




This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at 
www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?

[Tim Sippel via CnC-List]

Well… yes I have had all kinds of stuff spill . I actually keep the drain 
plugged , so any spillage stays in the cooler and I can drain it.
Also I have added refrigeration so spills stay a bit fresher .



Tim Sippel

MAtico   33mkii


From: Della Barba, Joe [mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov]
Sent: June 5, 2017 2:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tim Sippel 
Subject: RE: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the 
ice box drain to?

Just FYI – you may want to rethink that plan. Ever have milk spill in the 
icebox? Your boat will smell extra-special for a long time!
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK i

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Sippel 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 5, 2017 2:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tim Sippel mailto:tim.sip...@rci.rogers.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the 
ice box drain to?

On my 85 , it drains into the bilge , it often clogged , I cut out an access 
panel and found the hose was about a foot longer than necessary and had a loop 
in it (wtf) once cut to proper length and loop removed , no issues .

Tim Sippel

Matico
33Mkii




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Welch 
via CnC-List
Sent: June 4, 2017 7:06 PM
To: C&C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Doug Welch mailto:doug.we...@rogers.com>>
Subject: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice 
box drain to?

ours seems to be clogged and I couldn't figure out how to get to it to unclog

thanks in advance

cheers doug,
celtic knot 33-2 c/b
pickering



This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at 
www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
www.rogers.com/aviscourriel 






This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at 
www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



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fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
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Stus-List Bilge Water Level

[Chuck Saur via CnC-List]

>From experience- check the raw-water intake valve on your toilet (make sure
it's shut) and the sink drain in the head.  They only used single hose
clamps, (not double) on mine and short drain and intake cuffs. My loosened
and slipped out of place over time without notice...and water in bilge was
quick result.  Just another couple items for your troubleshooting
checklist.


*Chuck Saur*
*​Morning Sky*

*1985 35-3​*
​ ​
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Re: Stus-List USCG vessel documentation renewal scam again

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Here's the guy responsible: John Soria, owner of "US Vessel Documentation" 
(uscgdocumentation.us) - https://www.facebook.com/captainjohnsoria 

His Facebook profile introduction says "Jesus is my Lord, my wife is my soul 
mate, I was destined to be an entrepreneur!". The truth is he's about as phony 
a Christian as you can imagine, and more predator than "entrepreneur". And 
that's putting it politely. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Dave Godwin via CnC-List"  
To: "C&C List"  
Cc: "Dave Godwin"  
Sent: Monday, June 5, 2017 11:17:22 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List USCG vessel documentation renewal scam again 

Indeed. Filling out my official documentation update form right now. Both the 
real and scam notices arrived at the same time, confusing my wife. 

Cheers, 
Dave Godwin 
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin 
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay 
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 




On Jun 5, 2017, at 1:09 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 

Got my "courtesy notice" from the vessel documentation scammers today. Even 
though I've never fallen for it, it really irritates me. Might send them an 
email saying "nice try, scammers". 

Again, for those new to the list, uscgdocumentation.us is a third party entity 
which will charge you about 3 times the renewal fee. 

The official documentation site is https://www.uscg.mil/nvdc/ . I notice the 
tab on this site now says "THE ONLY OFFICIAL SITE...". The fee is only $26. 

Dennis C. 
Touche' 35-1 #83 
Mandeville, LA 
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Re: Stus-List USCG vessel documentation renewal scam again

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Horrifying!  He gives all Christians a bad name.

Gary
S/V Kayhlarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Jun 5, 2017 at 3:09 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Here's the guy responsible: John Soria, owner of "US Vessel Documentation"
> (uscgdocumentation.us) - https://www.facebook.com/captainjohnsoria
>
> His Facebook profile introduction says "Jesus is my Lord, my wife is my
> soul mate, I was destined to be an entrepreneur!".  The truth is he's about
> as phony a Christian as you can imagine, and more predator than
> "entrepreneur".  And that's putting it politely.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> --
> *From: *"Dave Godwin via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"C&C List" 
> *Cc: *"Dave Godwin" 
> *Sent: *Monday, June 5, 2017 11:17:22 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List USCG vessel documentation renewal scam again
>
> Indeed. Filling out my official documentation update form right now. Both
> the real and scam notices arrived at the same time, confusing my wife.
>
> Cheers,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Jun 5, 2017, at 1:09 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Got my "courtesy notice" from the vessel documentation scammers today.
> Even though I've never fallen for it, it really irritates me.  Might send
> them an email saying "nice try, scammers".
>
> Again, for those new to the list, uscgdocumentation.us is a third party
> entity which will charge you about 3 times the renewal fee.
>
> The official documentation site is https://www.uscg.mil/nvdc/.  I notice
> the tab on this site now says "THE ONLY OFFICIAL SITE...".  The fee is only
> $26.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?

[Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List]

>
> On my '85 33-2 we have the ice box drain connected to the foot pump under
> the sink.
>
This way we can just pump the water out of the ice box into the sink when
needed.

We have two foot pumps: 1) for water from the water tank, 2) Water from ice
box.

Lee Rosenbaum
Kookaburra 1985 33-2
Kenosha, WI


>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2017 18:04:38 +
> From: Tim Sippel 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom
> of the ice box drain to?
> Message-ID:
>  CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> On my 85 , it drains into the bilge , it often clogged , I cut out an
> access panel and found the hose was about a foot longer than necessary and
> had a loop in it (wtf) once cut to proper length and loop removed , no
> issues .
>
> Tim Sippel
>
> Matico
> 33Mkii
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List USCG vessel documentation renewal scam again

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I often use a third party auto title place rather than go sit for a lng
time at the state DMV.  The ten bucks or so they charge seems reasonable.
This vessel doc renewal firm fee just seems out of line not to mention
their very deceptive looking letter and website.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jun 5, 2017 at 2:09 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Here's the guy responsible: John Soria, owner of "US Vessel Documentation"
> (uscgdocumentation.us) - https://www.facebook.com/captainjohnsoria
>
> His Facebook profile introduction says "Jesus is my Lord, my wife is my
> soul mate, I was destined to be an entrepreneur!".  The truth is he's about
> as phony a Christian as you can imagine, and more predator than
> "entrepreneur".  And that's putting it politely.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> --
> *From: *"Dave Godwin via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"C&C List" 
> *Cc: *"Dave Godwin" 
> *Sent: *Monday, June 5, 2017 11:17:22 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List USCG vessel documentation renewal scam again
>
> Indeed. Filling out my official documentation update form right now. Both
> the real and scam notices arrived at the same time, confusing my wife.
>
> Cheers,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Jun 5, 2017, at 1:09 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Got my "courtesy notice" from the vessel documentation scammers today.
> Even though I've never fallen for it, it really irritates me.  Might send
> them an email saying "nice try, scammers".
>
> Again, for those new to the list, uscgdocumentation.us is a third party
> entity which will charge you about 3 times the renewal fee.
>
> The official documentation site is https://www.uscg.mil/nvdc/.  I notice
> the tab on this site now says "THE ONLY OFFICIAL SITE...".  The fee is only
> $26.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
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>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Interesting that one of your foot pumps is just connected to your refrig drain. 
On my 33-2, one foot pump is fresh water from the water tank, the other is salt 
water (in my case). We find the salt water handy for rinsing dishes prior to 
washing.

Mike Amirault
C&C 33ii   Lovely Cruise
SMSC  NS___

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Stus-List Hydraulic Hoses - C&C 37+

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I had a rigger replace the two hydraulic hoses for the Navtec backstays.  The 
shop he used seems pretty expensive.  Is there anything special about the 
hoses?  What have others paid for these hoses?

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Hydraulic Hoses - C&C 37+

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

It depends on the hose length and the fittings that have to be attached.  I
use Lew Townsend in Seattle for any hydraulic work.  (206) 935-4678

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Jun 5, 2017 at 1:38 PM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had a rigger replace the two hydraulic hoses for the Navtec backstays.
> The shop he used seems pretty expensive.  Is there anything special about
> the hoses?  What have others paid for these hoses?
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> *Ron*
>
> Ron Ricci
>
> S/V Patriot
>
> C&C 37+
>
> Bristol, RI
>
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=
> 2zWCUkd8vf45ujoODYOtx9g7Aq6nYfD2jh4oJVWHHV8&s=
> dECPVEtmf7bcZ2opMVCLWYgU6rIYLZsVrw_fpkHMH0I&e=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Hydraulic Hoses - C&C 37+

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

Go to Tri-Power in Warwick. 

On Monday, June 5, 2017 2:38 PM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I had a rigger replace 
the two hydraulic hoses for the Navtec backstays.  The shop he used seems 
pretty expensive.  Is there anything special about the hoses?  What have others 
paid for these hoses?  Regards,RonRon RicciS/V PatriotC&C 37+Bristol, 
riron.ri...@1968.usna.com    ___

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   ___

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Re: Stus-List Hydraulic Hoses - C&C 37+

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

The Navtec product is high quality but I found they are super expensive.  Years 
ago I had fluid leaking from the top of the Ram cyliner and unable to hold 
pressure for 10 minutes.  Tthe closest Navtec dealer, 2.5 hrs away wanted $750 
to rebuild it and I had to pay up front before they would even look at it.  


I took it to a local hydraulic shop that rebuilds rams for backhoes, forklifts, 
dump trucks and dosers and got mine rebuilt and bench tested to 4000# for $25.  
 To be sure, I asked the manager to setup a test and he pumped the system up to 
4000# and I saw it it holding when I arrived hours later and picked it up.  
They said the leak was caused by simple O-ring failure.  O-rings cost less than 
a dollar, but they advised me to add a plastic washer to the piston rod to 
block the sun's UVs.   They also advised me to change my system's oil from the 
pink stuff the PO was using, probably transmission fluid, to a 10 Weight 
Non-Detergent, and they suggested I buy it from NAPA.  In future I would not 
hesitate to pull any part and take it to a local Ram repair shop.   The 
hydraulic hoses can be replaced for 10% of what Navtec would charge.


A second option:  replace the lot with a cascade pulley system.  The first 
pulley will be the most expensive, but the whole lot will cost about the same 
and you'll be able to double end the system if you want.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On June 5, 2017 at 4:38 PM Ron Ricci via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I had a rigger replace the two hydraulic hoses for the Navtec backstays.  
> The shop he used seems pretty expensive.  Is there anything special about the 
> hoses?  What have others paid for these hoses?
> 
>  
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Ron
> 
> Ron Ricci
> 
> S/V Patriot
> 
> C&C 37+
> 
> Bristol, RI
> 
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 


 

> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?

[ahycrace--- via CnC-List]

I have small square plastic container located under the engine. That hose is 
connected to that container which has a small bilge pump in it. The pump has a 
hose that ends under the sink where there is a switch. I take the hose put it 
in the sink and flip the switch let the water pump into the sink. I think I 
could add a small fixture next to the sink so all I have to do is flip the 
switch. I guess I could put an auto switch in the tank so it would just work by 
itself.  Oh god I gotta get out more and just go sailing  ! !Gary   
"Liberty" 1976 38' MK II
 
 Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List  wrote: 
> >
> > On my '85 33-2 we have the ice box drain connected to the foot pump under
> > the sink.
> >
> This way we can just pump the water out of the ice box into the sink when
> needed.
> 
> We have two foot pumps: 1) for water from the water tank, 2) Water from ice
> box.
> 
> Lee Rosenbaum
> Kookaburra 1985 33-2
> Kenosha, WI
> 
> 
> >
> > --
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2017 18:04:38 +
> > From: Tim Sippel 
> > To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom
> > of the ice box drain to?
> > Message-ID:
> >  > CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
> >
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > On my 85 , it drains into the bilge , it often clogged , I cut out an
> > access panel and found the hose was about a foot longer than necessary and
> > had a loop in it (wtf) once cut to proper length and loop removed , no
> > issues .
> >
> > Tim Sippel
> >
> > Matico
> > 33Mkii
> >
> >
> >
> >


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Re: Stus-List Hydraulic Hoses - C&C 37+

[Harry Hallgring Jr via CnC-List]

Ron,
In the area:
Moy Works, Newport
401-849-4673

Ocean Inlay, Tiverton, RI
i...@oceaninlay.com

Or call me, 491-787-1378

Harry
Sent from my iPhone 8 beta

> On Jun 5, 2017, at 16:38, Ron Ricci via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I had a rigger replace the two hydraulic hoses for the Navtec backstays.  The 
> shop he used seems pretty expensive.  Is there anything special about the 
> hoses?  What have others paid for these hoses?
>  
> Regards,
> Ron
> Ron Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C&C 37+
> Bristol, RI
> 
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Hydraulic Hoses - C&C 37+

[Harry Hallgring Jr via CnC-List]

Typo. My area code is 401

Harry
Sent from my iPhone 8 beta

> On Jun 5, 2017, at 17:35, Harry Hallgring Jr via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ron,
> In the area:
> Moy Works, Newport
> 401-849-4673
> 
> Ocean Inlay, Tiverton, RI
> i...@oceaninlay.com
> 
> Or call me, 491-787-1378
> 
> Harry
> Sent from my iPhone 8 beta
> 
>> On Jun 5, 2017, at 16:38, Ron Ricci via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I had a rigger replace the two hydraulic hoses for the Navtec backstays.  
>> The shop he used seems pretty expensive.  Is there anything special about 
>> the hoses?  What have others paid for these hoses?
>>  
>> Regards,
>> Ron
>> Ron Ricci
>> S/V Patriot
>> C&C 37+
>> Bristol, RI
>> 
>> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>>  
>>  
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Stus-List 37+ hydraulic hoses.

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Ron, The answer to your question is no, nothing special about the hoses or 
fittings. Regular hoses work fine. If they used stainless wire wrapped hose, 
the price jumps up higher. UV takes out the hose no matter what type. I have a 
hydraulic boom vang  and had a sacrificial shortie made up so I didn't have to 
fish that hose as far. What hose did your rigger use? 

Sent from my mobile device. 
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Stus-List Wood restoration question

[robert via CnC-List]

Matt,

If your 'teak ply bulkhead' is in fact 'veneer' I would not sand ita 
better way is to make a mixture of TSP, ammonia and water and after 
wetting the veneer with it, dab 000 steelwool, very fine steelwool and 
rub over the surface(s).repeat as necessary.rinse with water and 
let dry and see what you have.


I did the table on my boat that way and then put a danish oil on it I 
bought at Lee Valley and it turned out great.


Not that difficult but labor intensiveit was worth it.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-06-05 12:27 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:

Listers:
I recently had my chart table refurbished by a carpenter who does 
very nice woodwork.  Unfortunately, the refurbished chart table 
highlights that other areas of woodwork need some TLC, most notably 
the teak ply bulkhead wall that the chart table connects to.  Certain 
areas of teak surface appear lighter in color than other areas.  Any 
suggestions on refinishing the teak veneer that a non-expert can 
safely undertake?  Is sanding too risky due to the thinness of the veneer?

Matt Wolford
**


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Re: Stus-List Wood restoration question

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I would never use steel wool on a boat.  The steel fiber will stay on the
surface and leave rust stains.  I suggest you use bronze wool or a fine
Scotchbright pad instead.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Jun 5, 2017 at 6:54 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Matt,
>
> If your 'teak ply bulkhead' is in fact 'veneer' I would not sand ita
> better way is to make a mixture of TSP, ammonia and water and after wetting
> the veneer with it, dab 000 steelwool, very fine steelwool and rub over the
> surface(s).repeat as necessary.rinse with water and let dry and see
> what you have.
>
> I did the table on my boat that way and then put a danish oil on it I
> bought at Lee Valley and it turned out great.
>
> Not that difficult but labor intensiveit was worth it.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2017-06-05 12:27 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Listers:
>
> I recently had my chart table refurbished by a carpenter who does very
> nice woodwork.  Unfortunately, the refurbished chart table highlights that
> other areas of woodwork need some TLC, most notably the teak ply bulkhead
> wall that the chart table connects to.  Certain areas of teak surface
> appear lighter in color than other areas.  Any suggestions on refinishing
> the teak veneer that a non-expert can safely undertake?  Is sanding too
> risky due to the thinness of the veneer?
>
> Matt Wolford
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Wood restoration question

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

On Mon, Jun 5, 2017 at 6:02 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I suggest you use bronze wool or a fine Scotchbright pad instead.


Ditto on the Scotchbrite.  You may remember a recent post I made about
cleaning lichen and vine "footprints" off a catamaran I'm prepping for
sale.  After using various chemicals, polishing compounds, oxalic acid,
etc. the thing that worked significantly better than all of them was a
Scotchbrite pad.

I had ordered bronze wool for burnishing the Touche's bottom paint and the
supplier sent me ScotchBrite pads.  I saw them few days ago and thought to
try them on the catamaran.  Much faster than all the other things I'd tried.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Anyone need/want a really big wheel?

[Richard via CnC-List]

  As an aside; I wanted a bigger wheel some time ago, and purchased a 
folding Wheel from
 
Richard

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
To: C&C List https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/helm.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/Scan10040.JPG 

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rFtbZJOC2ns/U4drDryUDqI/CHg/vXpIx2AF_sk/s1600/warpspeed.jpeg
 


And if anyone thinks you’re overcompensating for something else with your wheel 
size, that ship already sailed with the size of the boat . . . .


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log







On Feb 8, 2017, at 7:43 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
wrote:

I'll second Josh,

We have a very large diameter wheel on our 37/40 and it is perfect for steering 
from the rail.  I'd try it for a while under sail before I got rid of it if I 
were you.

https://goo.gl/photos/6v14RBHkHGMWCrV19

At times we also stand on the aft seats and straddle the hump and the large 
wheel makes this easy: https://goo.gl/photos/Mos5S7mgELRdbthb9

We take ours off at anchor and store it against the lifelines: 
https://goo.gl/photos/BiYVk8ab5FX6HtYT9

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia





> On 8 February 2017 at 08:10, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Hold on the that wheel!  You may find that you like it better than the small 
> one.  My boat came with 2 wheels from the PO as well.  I love the bigger 
> wheel since it makes steering with my feet and steering from the rails very 
> easy.  I also like to straddle the hump and stand on the aft benches to get a 
> clearer view of the road.  I wouldn't be able to reach the wheel comfortably 
> if it was smaller.  I can also stand in front of the pedestal and reach back 
> over the pedestal to comfortably reach the wheel allowing me to trim the main 
> or head sails.   Particularly when singlehanding the AP is low on the port 
> side and accessible from in front or behind the wheel but taking or giving 
> control from in front is much easier when you can reach the wheel 
> unencumbered.  It is a challenge to get around the wheel.  While underway we 
> just step up on the port/stbd hatches.  When not underway we remove the wheel 
> and stowing it on a mount designed by edson specifically for storing the 
> wheel on a pushpit rail.
> 
> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C2331321%7C2331322%7C2331325&id=79873
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 

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Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Lee - Where does the outbound hose go?Coiled under the sink, and pulled out 
when needed?
Would like to plumb mine in somehow.

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 5, 2017, at 3:37 PM, Lee Rosenbaum  wrote:

>> On my '85 33-2 we have the ice box drain connected to the foot pump under 
>> the sink.
> This way we can just pump the water out of the ice box into the sink when 
> needed.
> 
> We have two foot pumps: 1) for water from the water tank, 2) Water from ice 
> box.
> 
> Lee Rosenbaum
> Kookaburra 1985 33-2
> Kenosha, WI
>  
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2017 18:04:38 +
>> From: Tim Sippel 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom
>> of the ice box drain to?
>> Message-ID:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> On my 85 , it drains into the bilge , it often clogged , I cut out an access 
>> panel and found the hose was about a foot longer than necessary and had a 
>> loop in it (wtf) once cut to proper length and loop removed , no issues .
>> 
>> Tim Sippel
>> 
>> Matico
>> 33Mkii
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

By the way, our new (to us) 37/40+ has a small electric pump wired to a 12v. 
rocker switch near the sink.  In our case, the pump draws the water from the 
refrigerator and pumps it out a bent stainless tube directed into the sink.  I 
replaced the pump (which had died) with a cheap camper version rather than the 
"marine" one.  The cost was about $25.00.  It is really nice to be able to flip 
a switch vs. our old version of manually pumping the cooler in our previous C&C 
27, which, on a particularly warm and active weekend in Chicago could result in 
3 gallons or so of water.  

That said, on our C&C 27, we decided NOT to plumb the drain directly into the 
sink drain, as an aggressive sail could result in water flowing into the 
cooler.  

So, consider the heel of the boat before tying into the sink drain.
Just my $.02 worth, 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lee Rosenbaum 
 Sent: Monday, June 5, 2017 3:38 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the 
ice box drain to?
   

On my '85 33-2 we have the ice box drain connected to the foot pump under the 
sink.

This way we can just pump the water out of the ice box into the sink when 
needed.
We have two foot pumps: 1) for water from the water tank, 2) Water from ice box.
Lee RosenbaumKookaburra 1985 33-2Kenosha, WI 

-- -- --

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2017 18:04:38 +
From: Tim Sippel 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom
        of the ice box drain to?
Message-ID:
        

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

On my 85 , it drains into the bilge , it often clogged , I cut out an access 
panel and found the hose was about a foot longer than necessary and had a loop 
in it (wtf) once cut to proper length and loop removed , no issues .

Tim Sippel

Matico
33Mkii




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   ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?

[ahycrace via CnC-List]

The outbound hose is coiled below the sink and the end hangs on a small hook. I 
just grab it and put it in the sink.                                            
       Gary


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Dave via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/5/17  7:55 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: Lee Rosenbaum 
 Cc: syerd...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: 
Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box 
drain to? 
Lee - Where does the outbound hose go?    Coiled under the sink, and pulled out 
when needed?Would like to plumb mine in somehow.

Sent from my iPad
On Jun 5, 2017, at 3:37 PM, Lee Rosenbaum  wrote:

On my '85 33-2 we have the ice box drain connected to the foot pump under the 
sink.
This way we can just pump the water out of the ice box into the sink when 
needed.
We have two foot pumps: 1) for water from the water tank, 2) Water from ice box.
Lee RosenbaumKookaburra 1985 33-2Kenosha, WI 


--



Message: 1

Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2017 18:04:38 +

From: Tim Sippel 

To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom

        of the ice box drain to?

Message-ID:

        




Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"



On my 85 , it drains into the bilge , it often clogged , I cut out an access 
panel and found the hose was about a foot longer than necessary and had a loop 
in it (wtf) once cut to proper length and loop removed , no issues .



Tim Sippel



Matico

33Mkii







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Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Tx  Bruce.  This makes sense, I do get water coming up the drain when sailing 
briskly.  Probably makes more sense to just live with uncoiling and pumping 
occasionally. 
Lee replied that he repurposed his unneeded seawater footpump/faucet for this.  
Mine has only one.
Must be 33-2 variant week here on the list.  I wonder how many were factory 
options vs evolutionary?  (Like 2 water tanks, seawater in galley, drawers 
below berth,  etc)

Dave


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 5, 2017, at 8:34 PM, Bruce Whitmore  wrote:
> 
> By the way, our new (to us) 37/40+ has a small electric pump wired to a 12v. 
> rocker switch near the sink.  In our case, the pump draws the water from the 
> refrigerator and pumps it out a bent stainless tube directed into the sink.  
> I replaced the pump (which had died) with a cheap camper version rather than 
> the "marine" one.  The cost was about $25.00.  It is really nice to be able 
> to flip a switch vs. our old version of manually pumping the cooler in our 
> previous C&C 27, which, on a particularly warm and active weekend in Chicago 
> could result in 3 gallons or so of water.  
> 
> That said, on our C&C 27, we decided NOT to plumb the drain directly into the 
> sink drain, as an aggressive sail could result in water flowing into the 
> cooler.  
> 
> So, consider the heel of the boat before tying into the sink drain.
> Just my $.02 worth, 
> 
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> From: Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Lee Rosenbaum 
> Sent: Monday, June 5, 2017 3:38 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the 
> ice box drain to?
> 
> On my '85 33-2 we have the ice box drain connected to the foot pump under the 
> sink.
> This way we can just pump the water out of the ice box into the sink when 
> needed.
> 
> We have two foot pumps: 1) for water from the water tank, 2) Water from ice 
> box.
> 
> Lee Rosenbaum
> Kookaburra 1985 33-2
> Kenosha, WI
>  
> 
> -- -- --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2017 18:04:38 +
> From: Tim Sippel 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom
> of the ice box drain to?
> Message-ID:
>  CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> On my 85 , it drains into the bilge , it often clogged , I cut out an access 
> panel and found the hose was about a foot longer than necessary and had a 
> loop in it (wtf) once cut to proper length and loop removed , no issues .
> 
> Tim Sippel
> 
> Matico
> 33Mkii
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Engine cooling woes

[colin binkley via CnC-List]

Hurray!!! That was a good story line on that thread. Is there a moral to be 
observed?  I'll bet you were happy!
Colin
SV Lindsey Layne
71 C&C 40C #3

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Intriguing challenge

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Cut the broken pin stop car off. Remove the other one. Throw both away.

 

Call Garhauer for a pair of mine adjust able cars. You’ll be glad you did.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2017 1:28 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Intriguing challenge

 

Was replacing end stops on the jib track this week and noticed a knurled knob 
on the deck.  It was the pull knob for the jib slide.  See pic:

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWm0yY3FCT0x3TjA

 

Note knob in shadow and the top of the pull pin on the slide.  It is a spring 
pin slide.

 

I have found a replacement slide but now need to remove the broken one.  This 
is the challenge.

 

Option 1:  Tie line to slide, take to winch and tension to "bind" pin in hole 
in T-track.  Drill and tap pin and insert machine screw to lift pin in order to 
slide it off.

 

Option 2:  Cut slide lengthwise, separate and remove.  I have Dremel, RotoZip 
and side grinder.  Side grinder and RotoZip would be great but they have a way 
of getting away from me.  I don't need a bunch of gouges in the deck.  Might 
take a lot of cutting wheels with the Dremel but higher comfort level with 
control of tool.

 

Option 3:  Remove the T-track.  Plug all the holes on one end, drill hole from 
back side to push pin up and slide off.  Probably would have to drill a couple 
holes.  This is by far least desirable option.

 

Option 4:  Drill/grind metal from top of slide to expose pin, remove spring and 
try to remove pin with needle nose pliers, hemostat, magnet?, etc.

 

Option 5:  Remove T-track, dumpster it and the slide.  Install new track.  
Seems dumb.

 

Options 1 and 4 seem best.  Probably won't do this job for several weeks since 
I don't expect to use the slide anytime soon.  Will advise how it went.

 

A, the joy of boat ownership.  :)

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Wood restoration question

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

A white 3M Scotchbright pad is about the same coarseness as bronze wool. DO NOT 
use steel wool. My PO used steel  staples in upholstery, and I have several 
lines of rust colored pockmarks in the teak.

 

Watco Danish Teak Oil is a very close match for the color of the teak in both 
of my mid-70s boats.

 

Step 1: wash with Murphy’s Oil soap & let dry

Step 2: Lemon Oil

Step 3: Watco oil & buff when it is all soaked into the teak

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2017 7:02 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wood restoration question

 

I would never use steel wool on a boat.  The steel fiber will stay on the 
surface and leave rust stains.  I suggest you use bronze wool or a fine 
Scotchbright pad instead.

 

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C&C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA




~~~_/)~~

 

On Mon, Jun 5, 2017 at 6:54 PM, robert via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Matt,

If your 'teak ply bulkhead' is in fact 'veneer' I would not sand ita better 
way is to make a mixture of TSP, ammonia and water and after wetting the veneer 
with it, dab 000 steelwool, very fine steelwool and rub over the 
surface(s).repeat as necessary.rinse with water and let dry and see 
what you have.

I did the table on my boat that way and then put a danish oil on it I bought at 
Lee Valley and it turned out great.

Not that difficult but labor intensiveit was worth it.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S. 

On 2017-06-05 12:27 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:

Listers:

 

I recently had my chart table refurbished by a carpenter who does very nice 
woodwork.  Unfortunately, the refurbished chart table highlights that other 
areas of woodwork need some TLC, most notably the teak ply bulkhead wall that 
the chart table connects to.  Certain areas of teak surface appear lighter in 
color than other areas.  Any suggestions on refinishing the teak veneer that a 
non-expert can safely undertake?  Is sanding too risky due to the thinness of 
the veneer?

 

Matt Wolford  

 

 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I've put almost 35 hours on the M35B in Imzadi over the past three days
(delivery mode enroute to Annapolis). Haven't used any noticeable amount of
oil.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of PETER
OCAMPO via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2017 7:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: PETER OCAMPO 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn

Sorry maybe didn't word it right 

The motor time was about 24 hours no wind at about 2500 rpm  this was more
delivery then enjoyment. Needed to get back for work 

Just wondering if others burn oil with their diesel to that amount.   

Thanks

Peter

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 4, 2017, at 7:33 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List
 wrote:
> 
> Would a thousand hours in the Suburban  be 20 hours? How does that compare
to your motoring time to Maine? I sail on the west coast so I don't have a
clue how many hours of operation is involved from Newport to Maine.
> 
> Rick Rohwer 
> 509 306 1094
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jun 4, 2017, at 11:39, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List
 wrote:
>> 
>> Question just motored from Newport ri  to Portland Maine and noted the
oil dip stick when I left was full and when I got back after motoring for 24
hours  was 1/2 way on the dip stick. 
>> 
>> On my big block chevy suburban I burn a quart of oil per 1000 miles. 
>> 
>> Is this normal
>> 
>> Also I get  a little white smoke when motoring. No temp issues stays at
180. Oil pressure at 50-55
>> 
>> 
>> Has anyone used a gasket sealer that works
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Peter
>> 
>> Goonie island 
>> C&c 40 1983. Aft cabin 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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___

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Re: Stus-List Intriguing challenge

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Rick,

This is one of my jib track cars.  Just for my 95% jib.  Never move them.

I have line control adjustable ball bearing cars on my genoa track.

I am, however, replacing both cars.  If one broke..

I brought the knurled knob home.  I drilled and tapped a hole in the
remainder of the pin that was in the knob.  Option 1 as well as Option 4 in
my original post are both viable.

Dennis C.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Jun 5, 2017 at 7:56 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Cut the broken pin stop car off. Remove the other one. Throw both away.
>
>
>
> Call Garhauer for a pair of mine adjust able cars. You’ll be glad you did.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, June 04, 2017 1:28 PM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Intriguing challenge
>
>
>
> Was replacing end stops on the jib track this week and noticed a knurled
> knob on the deck.  It was the pull knob for the jib slide.  See pic:
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWm0yY3FCT0x3TjA
>
>
>
> Note knob in shadow and the top of the pull pin on the slide.  It is a
> spring pin slide.
>
>
>
> I have found a replacement slide but now need to remove the broken one.
> This is the challenge.
>
>
>
> Option 1:  Tie line to slide, take to winch and tension to "bind" pin in
> hole in T-track.  Drill and tap pin and insert machine screw to lift pin in
> order to slide it off.
>
>
>
> Option 2:  Cut slide lengthwise, separate and remove.  I have Dremel,
> RotoZip and side grinder.  Side grinder and RotoZip would be great but they
> have a way of getting away from me.  I don't need a bunch of gouges in the
> deck.  Might take a lot of cutting wheels with the Dremel but higher
> comfort level with control of tool.
>
>
>
> Option 3:  Remove the T-track.  Plug all the holes on one end, drill hole
> from back side to push pin up and slide off.  Probably would have to drill
> a couple holes.  This is by far least desirable option.
>
>
>
> Option 4:  Drill/grind metal from top of slide to expose pin, remove
> spring and try to remove pin with needle nose pliers, hemostat, magnet?,
> etc.
>
>
>
> Option 5:  Remove T-track, dumpster it and the slide.  Install new track.
> Seems dumb.
>
>
>
> Options 1 and 4 seem best.  Probably won't do this job for several weeks
> since I don't expect to use the slide anytime soon.  Will advise how it
> went.
>
>
>
> A, the joy of boat ownership.  :)
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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